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Tested and proven at the highest level, this
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solid ground. Master Chronometer certified, it
can withstand the extreme levels of magnetism
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such as mobile phones, tablets and laptops, which
emit varying levels of magnetism that can affect
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OMEGA Boutiques SYDNEY 20 Martin Place • Westfield Bondi Junction

MELBOURNE 179 Collins Street • Chadstone • Crown Casino BRISBANE 188 Edward Street
 The
snack
issue
AN 96
SUMMER GRAZE
Dip into the colourful food
culture of America’s west coast
with recipes from Vivian Lui’s
new book Eat California.

Food
Breakfast tacos........................99
Barbecued short ribs .............99
Crunchy wraps ....................... 101
Crispy rice sushi .................... 102
Pizza.......................................... 102

78 SNACKS BY THE SEA

Chefs Jordan Toft and Andrew
Wandless create petite plates
Grilled meatballs with
lettuce wraps ..................... 105

that are packed with flavour

at Una Más in Coogee.

Octopus, fermented chilli ......81

Cauliflower, sheep’s milk,
106 EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Iconic Cantonese dishes and
flavours from ArChan Chan’s
pepitas....................................81 new book Hong Kong Local.
Wagyu, slaw, green chilli
and salsa verde...................82 Pork and cabbage
Patatas bravas..........................83 dumplings ........................... 108
Sardines, sour onions and Prawn dumplings .................. 109
currants..................................87 Pork and mushroom
Catalan bread, tomato, dumplings ............................ 111
oregano.................................87 Pineapple bun with
butter...................................... 111
Egg tarts ................................... 112
Runny salted egg yolk

88
MEZE MAGIC bao......................................... 113
Ready. Set. Snack! These
delicious meze dishes make
for quick and easy entertaining.

Rockmelon with shanklish....90

Shepherd’s salad ....................90
Roasted beetroot, walnut
and yoghurt dip ...................91
Broad bean falafel ..................93
Burghul salad with dates,
olives and pomegranate...93
Merguez and shallot
koftas with zhoug ...............94
Hazelnut and pomegranate
muhammara with
barberries .............................94
Green hummus with
lemon prawns......................95
 JANUARY 2021

ON THE COVER
Snacks from Una Más (p78)

Recipe Jordan Toft and

Andrew Wandless
Features
55
Photography Con Poulos
Styling Vivian Walsh THE SHAPE OF THINGS
Everything will look different in 2021. Grace MacKenzie
rounds up the biggest trends set to shape the year.
SUBSCRIBE
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60
Details p74 TINY BUT MIGHTY
Small restaurants pack a powerful punch with their
intimate service and creativity, writes Nadia Bailey.

Regulars 64 ONE-BITE WONDERS

Now you see them, now you don’t. Michael Harden
looks at the rise of the snack attack.
7 UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news.

68
20 MEMORIES Alan Cumming. COMING SOON
22 FIVE OF A KIND Dairy-free ice-cream. After 2020 derailed so many plans, this year will see
a number of new restaurants open across Australia.
24 COMMUNITY X KYLIE Skye Blackburn.
26 THE KITCHEN GARDENER Peaches.

Travel
28 WINE COUNTRY Riverland, South Australia.
30 COCKTAIL HOUR Bloody Mary.
33 REVIEW Dining out.
41 FAST Simple, everyday meals.
50 MASTERCLASS Lebanese pickles.
118 ROCK OF AGES
PHOTOGRAPHY CON POULOS (COVER & BEACH) & FRANCESCO RICCARDO IACOMINO (ULURU).

Visiting Australia’s Red Centre is like travelling

52 ANATOMY OF A DISH Club sandwich.
to another planet, writes Joanna Hunkin.
116 THE ART OF TRAVEL Bite-sized travel.
126 CHECKING IN W Brisbane.
146 STYLE Home, fashion and beauty.
154 OBJECTS OF DESIRE Tapas plates.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY
Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the
Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we
now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet
Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present.

128
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turquoise water, palms and impossibly white sand.
 Editor Joanna Hunkin
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Deputy Editor Karlie Verkerk

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Group Food Director Sophia Young
Group Food Editor Cynthia Adey

Art
Art Director Laura Jacobs
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Words
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Writer Jordan Kretchmer
Writer & Editorial Coordinator Georgie Meredith

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Simon Rickard, Tory Shepherd, Max Veenhuyzen

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 Editor’s letter

Summer grazing
at Una Más

p 78

Editor’s letter
As we enter a new year, it’s time to celebrate some new
beginnings here at Gourmet Traveller, as we welcome
a number of new features and columns, as well as the
return of some much-loved favourites.
Sommelier and wine communicator Samantha Payne
joins us with a new wine column, as we explore a different
Australian wine region each month. Professional gardener
Simon Rickard is here to share his insights on growing
fruit and vegetables that will elevate any meal. And we
are launching a new style section, featuring more home,
beauty and fashion inspiration each month.
We also welcome the return of restaurant reviews,
which were put on hiatus last year. Our new review section
has been expanded to feature restaurants from around
Australia, including new openings and old favourites,
plus those that have undergone makeovers or refreshes
to deliver exceptional new dining experiences.
All of this is on top of our usual features and recipes,
which this month focus on all things snack-sized, as we
celebrate why small is good and tiny is mighty.
If you’d like to share any thoughts or feedback with us,
you can always reach us at askgourmet@aremedia.com.au
SUBSCRIBE NOW
magshop.com.au/gmt
Details p74

E WE’
RM ER V
OU E
WH

E
G

BEEN
WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH
A

P
PROV
E
PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY (PORTRAIT) & CON POULOS (UNA MÁS).

Alma Berrow Ceramics Blue Mountains Grown Gin

British artist Alma Berrow serves Add a splash of feel-good factor
up summer on a plate that you can to your next tipple with this new
enjoy all year round, thanks to her release. 100 per cent of profits go
playful ceramic creations. Follow to supporting the Blue Mountains
her on Instagram to see more Botanic Garden, which was
of her unique
q curios. damaged in last year’s bushfires.
almaberrow.com gardengrowngin.com.au

AT I O N
IR
INSP

Calita, North Bondi

Dona Cholita Totopos Team GT farewelled 2020 with
ME

If you’ve tried the chips and guac a seaside celebration at Bondi’s

O

H
at La Casita in Brunswick Heads, newest addition, Calita. Feasting
you’ll know just why we’re hooked on Mexican flavours and fresh
on these premium totopos. seafood was the perfect end to
The ultimate summer snack. a thoroughly imperfect year.
donacholita.com.au JOANNA HUNKIN, EDITOR

EMAIL ASKGOURMET@AREMEDIA.COM.AU // FOLLOW @ GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 7
 Dishes and destinations
The Gourmet Traveller team share where
they’ve been and what they’re eating.

Saint Peter
Josh Niland pairs yellowfin tuna with tapioca and
finger lime to celebrate his new partnership with
G. H. Mumm. Designed to mirror the fine bubbles
of Champagne, the delicate dish is on the menu
until 31 Jan. 362 Oxford St, Paddington, NSW
Joanna Hunkin, editor

Black Springs, NSW

An hour and a half past the Blue
Mountains you’ll find Black Springs, and
what a difference a year makes. Last
year, this paddock on our friend’s farm
was burnt and crisp, narrowly avoiding
the clutches of the bushfires. This year,
the dam was overflowing and the
paddocks had lush knee-deep grass.
Laura Jacobs, art director
Poodle Bar and Bistro
Only the self-hating could resist
these vol-au-vent. McConnell alumnus

PHOTOGRAPHY TJ EDWARDS (LITTLE LAGOS), FRANCES ANDRIJICH (CULLEN).

chef Josh Fry turns up the fishy bling,
topping a rich, salty mix of crab and
white tarama with salmon roe.
81-83 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, Vic
Michael Harden, Vic state editor

Margaret River
There are shinier cellar doors
in Margaret River, certainly, but
there’s something reassuring about
Cullen’s homely stone and timber
digs. Book lunch in the new BD
Wine Room and make a day of it.
4323 Caves Rd, Wilyabrup, WA
Max Veenhuyzen, WA state editor
Little Lagos
You only need one finger to count the number
of Nigerian restaurants in Sydney. So diners flock
for jollof rice, goat stew and this ewa agonyi –
lightly mashed black-eyed beans with agonyi
sauce made from capsicum, habanero and spices.
125 Enmore Road, Newtown, NSW
Yvonne Lam, digital editor

8 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Eat like a local
p 106
PHOTOGRAPHY NCON POULOS (TOFT), IAN NOTMAN (RICKARD) & ALANA DIMOU (MAIN).
TORY SHEPHERD
writer
Coming soon, p64
For fifteen years, journalist
Tory Shepherd has been
writing about politics, social
justice, and other worthy
topics. She’s travelled the
world with various politicians,
but her main memories of
those trips are the food.
For this issue, she was
excited to research new
restaurants closer to home.
“2021 is already teeming
with exciting new options.
I’m going to need a bigger
waistband!”
JORDAN TOFT
chef
Snacks by the sea, p78
After being with Merivale
for more than a decade,
Jordan Toft’s delicate-yet-
robust style of cooking has
come to be a signature of the
hospitality group. His latest
venture, Una Más, draws on
the Spanish tapas tradition,
while injecting a relaxed
beach-to-bar vibe. In this
issue, Toft shares recipes,
ideal for snacking your way
through a summer afternoon.
“It’s an ode to my many years
in the Balearics,” he says.
ALANA DIMOU
photographer
Eat like a local, p106
After beginning photography
as a way to document her
own home cooking ventures,
Alana Dimou went on to
forge a career shooting
travel, food and lifestyle
briefs full-time. For this issue,
her bold and colourful style
captures iconic Cantonese
dishes for ArChan Chan’s
debut cookbook Hong Kong
Local. “I’m so grateful to have
been a part of such a striking
book, awash with Chan’s
knowledge,” says Dimou.
Contributors
SIMON RICKARD
writer and gardener
The kitchen gardener, p30
This plant man and baroque
musician was the head of
one of Australia’s biggest
gardening clubs, before
establishing Annie Smithers’
legendary kitchen garden
in Victoria. As GT’s new
columnist, Simon Rickard
brings this knowledge from
soil to page. “We tend to
take fruit and vegetables
for granted. But scratch
the surface, and food plants
have so many stories to
tell,” he says.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 9
 Electric now
has a Mercedes.
The EQC is here.

Mercedes EQC
 NEWS
JANUARY

Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER

HELLO, 2021
Behind the scenes at Nobu,
GT’s summer media guide,
chef snacks, plus new hotel
and restaurant openings.

Bismarck
House,
Bondi, NSW

p 14
PHOTOGRAPHY PETER BENNETTS.
 T H E L AT E ST F R O M C H E F S A N D R E STAU R A N TS A R O U N D AU ST R A L I A

R E S TA U R A N T N E W S

PHOTOGRAPHY TANIA BAHR-VOLLRATH (CHANCERY LANE), BUFFET DIGITAL (THE GROWERS), KITTI GOULD (CALITA) & RUBIN UTAMA (GUM).
MELBOURNE + VICTORIA
New year, new adventures, and
Attica Summer Camp is truly living
this ethos. Ben Shewry’s ambitious
new al fresco dining project is inspired
by potluck dinners and the simple
joy of cooking over a campfire, and
will be heading to the Yarra Valley
for a five-month residency.
Back in the big smoke, Gum has
opened in Collingwood, delivering
punters ’70s vibes, well-made cocktails
and pies by Footscray’s Pie Thief.
Clockwise from above: the ’70s St Kilda’s Little Prince Wine has also
aesthetic at Gum; a Pie Thief pie opened, and is the final piece of the
at Gum; blue swimmer crab puzzle for the long-standing corner
tostadas at Calita; wood-fired
pear tarte Tatin at The Growers. hotel. Pickett and Co’s latest site in
Opposite: Chancery Lane’s Scott Little Collins Street sees its first outpost
Pickett and chef Rob Kaboord. in the top end of Melbourne’s CBD.

Housed in the historic Normanby
Chambers building, Chancery Lane
is a French-inspired bistro with a twist.
The fit-out echoes a decadent bygone
era, while the fare sees Pickett flex
his French technique in a list of classic
dishes with modern flair.
SYDNEY + NSW
Restaurateur Tonci Farac has never
been one to do things by halves. The
former Wildfire owner is the driving force
behind Sydney’s grandest new dining
room, Italian fine-diner Seta on Barrack
St in the CBD. The custom fitout cost
more than $5 million and the result is
high-wattage glamour. Phase one is
open now with a crudo bar and private
lounge set to follow.
Bondi has welcomed Calita, a light and
bright, pint-sized dining room devoted to
seafood. It comes from the folks behind
nearby Carbon and Taqiza, so you can
expect well-made spicy Margaritas,
alongside blue swimmer crab tostadas,
market fish ceviche and crunchy school
prawn tacos.
On the South Coast, The Growers is
the new sprawling venue from the team
behind Acre eateries and The Greens.
Much like their other venues, they’ll be
offering family-friendly fare, seafood
from the region and locally inspired
craft brews and cocktails.
News
NATURALLY NOBU
Globe-spanning hospitality juggernaut Nobu has become equally
synonymous with its excellent sushi, as it has its slick interiors.
With 32 restaurants (plus hotels) around the world, including
hotspots in Miami, London and Tokyo, Nobuyuki “Nobu”
Matsuhisa’s eponymous Japanese restaurant has finally arrived
in Sydney. Severine Tatangelo, pictured above, and her California-
based design firm Studio PCH are responsible for the interiors,
challenged with the task of creating a restaurant space that
reflects each different location while also working cohesively
with the brand and its signature Japanese aesthetic. It’s a job
she’s familiar with, designing interiors for Nobu since 2006.
When it came to designing Sydney’s Nobu, Tatangelo and
her team wanted to imbue a strong sense of place. “Whenever
we start working on a project, the first step is to get a feel for the
local habits. You don’t want to repeat the same design,” she says.
Working with the space’s grand ceiling height and inspired by the
proximity to the Harbour and the relaxed style of Sydneysiders,
the Studio PCH team began renders, working on the process
from September 2018 through to completion. “We really wanted
to create a connection and continuity between the restaurant and
the water,” says Tatangelo. “We also based [the layout] on the
culture of Sydney. People hang out – so the bar is a centrepiece.”
The team also used this height and space to create a sense of
ceremony for each guest’s arrival. “When you’re going to Nobu,
you want to create something special, and it’s a celebration. We
want to enhance this experience.”
While traditional Japanese interior aesthetics often focus
on simplicity, this balancing act between subtlety and grandeur
is one of the trickiest parts of nailing the Nobu brief. “Simplicity
isn’t easy. Especially when you’re designing restaurants – you
don’t want to be austere and feel like a church – it’s a restaurant,
you want a mood, and to make it energetic.”
To this end you’ll find shapes influenced by Japanese origami,
a wooden slat-encased omakase bar and three private dining
rooms. “When you arrive at your table, you will already have all
your emotions enhanced by the space. Visually and physically.
It’s our job to create this journey throughout the space, before
you even get to your table.”
Crown Sydney, Barangaroo, Sydney, NSW, noburestaurants.com
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 13
News

THREE OF A KIND A R C H I T E C T U R A L STAYS TO B O O K I N 2 0 2 1

1
Dovecote, Gerringong
Located on 150 acres of verdant green farmland on NSW’s South
Coast these two luxury lodgings look like homes plucked from
the Hollywood Hills or a James Bond film. The smaller of the two
is called The Range and sleeps four, with its own plunge pool and
suspended fireplace. The grand Headland sleeps up to eight and
has its own mineral pool, outdoor firepit and dramatic views of the
Tasman Sea. From $1350 (The Range) and $2950 (The Headland)
per night, dovecote.com.au

2
The Pole House, Fairhaven
What appears at first to

PHOTOGRAPHY TIM BEAN (DOVECOTE) & PETER BENNETTS (BISMARCK HOUSE).

be an architectural optical
illusion is in fact a beautiful
seaside stay. With views out
to Fairhaven Beach, this noted
point of the Great Ocean Road is
available for overnight bookings.
While the structure was originally
built in the ’70s, the place was
redesigned by Franco Fiorentini
from F2 Architecture in 2014.

3
Bismarck House, Bondi The minimal interiors let the
This unassuming four-bedroom holiday home combines restrained interiors with expansive views out to Fairhaven
a breezy Bondi aesthetic. Named after the sprawling palm, around which the Beach do the work. From $868
building carefully wraps, Bismarck House is comprised of sculptural concrete curves per night, stayz.com.au
and blonde wood panelling. The sculptural plants and interiors merge seamlessly, with
expansive windows looking out to sunny spaces. There’s also ceramics from Saint Cloche,
artworks by Hannah Nowlan, and a Robert Plumb barbecue outside. It’s easy to see why
it’s received a host of architecture awards. From $1200 per night, bismarckhouse.com.au

14 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PODCAST
JOANNA HUNKIN
Editor
THE UNBEARABLE
LIGHTNESS OF BEING
HUNGRY
Lee Tran Lam asks chefs,
hospo staff and other mega
foodies (including GT’s very
own editor) to share their
war stories, dining habits,
and favourite places to
eat and drink.
KARLIE VERKERK
Deputy editor
BETWEEN FRIENDS
by ANNE WIDJAJA AND
NAYOMI SENANAYAKE
The pair behind this
small-time Sydney vegan
cake company hook me
in with their banter about
aquafaba, egg-free Black
Forest cake, and Netflix’s
Indian Matchmaking.
YVONNE C LAM
Digital editor
OUT TO LUNCH WITH
JAY RAYNER
Witty and convivial British
food critic, Jay Rayner,
interviews big names such
as Minnie Driver, Tim
Minchin and Dolly Alderton,
while exploring the culinary
delights at a restaurant of
GEORGIE MEREDITH his choice.
Writer and editorial
co-ordinator
THE LIGHTHOUSE
This expertly investigated
six-part show delves
into the tragic 2019
disappearance of Belgian
backpacker Theo Hayez.
It also touches on the ethics
of data privacy and
showcases the strength of
the Byron Bay community.
JORDAN KRETCHMER
Writer
LISTEN
TEEKS
Set fire to your soul and
luxuriate in the warmth of
Kiwi singer Te Karehana
Gardiner-Toi. The
breakthrough star has
earned fans around the
world with his honeyed
voice. Even Beyoncé is
said to be a fan.
TOURIST
by ST GERMAIN
Released 20 years ago, this
album by French producer
Ludovic Navarre (stage
name St Germain) feels as
fresh as ever. Its soothing
jazz-house tunes are
begging for a sophisticated
summer soirée.
MOREDECHAI
by KHRUANGBIN
Slow-jam beats, melodies
that dip and dive, and lots of
reverb. At times languorous,
at others, supercharged
with summer loving, this
third album from the Texan
trio is proof that all good
things come in threes.
FORGOTTEN SUMMER
by FLIGHT FACILITIES
This Soundcloud mix from
the Sydney duo may have
been created in the midst
of lockdown as an ode to
a lost summer for North
Americans, but it’s the
perfect soundtrack for pool
parties and sunset drinks.
SUMMER MEDIA GUIDE
BEACH READ
LADY IN WAITING
by ANNE GLENCONNER
This extraordinary memoir
by Princess Margaret’s
lady-in-waiting takes us
behind palace walls for
a rare insight into royal life
and details the peculiarities
of Britain’s aristocracy. It’s
a right royal soap opera.
THE GODFATHER
by MARIO PUZO
I may be 51 years too
late with this, but it speaks
to the undiminishable
quality of Puzo’s storytelling
extravaganza that it’s stood
the test of time (bar the
occasional misogynistic
and racist language).
INSOMNIAC CITY
by BILL HAYES
Bill Hayes, photographer
and partner of the late
renowned neurologist
Oliver Sacks, brings the
colourful and eclectic
streets of New York to life
in this funny, warm and
poignant autobiography.
FAKE
by STEPHANIE WOOD
This page-turner chronicles
the deception in dating
first hand. Wood is
a journalist and takes you
on a believable journey
of unbelievable lies from
a narcissist. It’s heartfelt,
candid and honest.
 S N A C K PA C K
Chefs share their favourite nostalgic,
noteworthy and fine-dining bites.

OSCAR SOLOMON JUNDA KHOO JAMIE YATES

Yoko Dining, Brisbane Ho Jiak, Sydney Tom McHugo’s, Hobart

The secret to truly

FAVOURITE CANAPÉ
Oscar: “Taramasalata and pita
or a kombu-seasoned chip.”
Junda: “Eggs and caviar.”
Jamie: “For a DIY canapé I can’t
go past the classic whipped
BEST MOVIE SNACK maximising your time
Oscar: “Popcorn and Maltesers. in the sun? Invest in
Eat one-quarter of the popcorn
a good-quality beach
(L/XL) whilst watching trailers.
Dump Maltesers into the popcorn
umbrella. Australian
box and shake it like it’s a cocktail. brand Basil Bangs is

smoked trout and crème fraîche,
either with heaps of chives, or
wild fennel if you’re down for
a forage. Whack it on a cracker,
some focaccia or ultimately,
a disc of cucumber.”
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (CHIPS), JESSE HUNNIFORD (JAMIE YATES), ESTEBAN LA TESSA (JUNDA KHOO) & NIKKI TO (OSCAR SOLOMON).
Each mouthful is an unpredictable behind this range of
combination of chocolate and salt.” bright, beach-ready
Junda: “Nachos! How can you go
brollies, which come
wrong?”
Jamie: “I’m just all about straight- in marigold, sage, blue
up buttery popcorn and a Coke, and nude, alongside
a traditionalist, if you will.” a range of prints. $199,
basilbangs.com/au

BEST CHIP
Oscar: “Without a doubt, Kettle Original Sea Salt chips
with an ice-cold schooner. A post-work combination
from a past life as a bartender.”
Junda: “Thins Sour Cream & Chives. I love them
because it was something I used to eat growing up.
They’re even better when they’re on special!”
Jamie: “Chicken Twisties, so naff, so weird, so good.”

FINE-DINER SNACK

PIECE OF SUSHI Oscar: “Attica’s Vegemite

scroll.”
Oscar: “Temaki hand roll with tuna
Junda: “Oh so many! But
tataki, fresh wasabi and cucumber.”
the pai tee or potatoes at
Junda: “One from Sano-san’s
Sixpenny. And the roti with
omakase at Sokyo. It’s a prawn sushi
Vegemite curry at Sunda.” Rolex has opened its largest boutique
on top of abalone liver and guts. And
ILLUSTRATION © ROLEX.

Jamie: “Analiese Gregory’s in the southern hemisphere in Sydney’s

Wai’s omakase at Sushi E. It’s urchin
chicken parfait in yeast CBD. Across three storeys and 400
and caviar. Both are my favourites
crisps at Franklin was square metres, you’ll find classic
because they’re so creamy and rich.”
a snack I never got tired timepieces, a custom five-metre tall,
Jamie: “Grilled scallop nigiri.”
of, so delicate yet crispy. hand-blown crystal chandelier and
A textural delight.” a dedicated exhibition space. rolex.com
 News

Turning the tables

When Bed Threads’ founder Genevieve Rosen
noticed her customers repurposing their bed linen
as tablecloths, she saw an opportunity. “We had
considered moving from the bedroom (and bathroom)
into the kitchen for a while, but the in-built interest
from our community gave us the inspiration to create
something special,” says Rosen. Now, you’ll find
elegant French table linen, including tablecloths,
napery and placemats in a range of rich hues, ready
to adorn your summer table. bedthreads.com.au

O N T H E PA S S w i t h R O S H E E N K AU L , E T TA

What changes can we expect to see at Etta? I’m the third head chef here, so
in terms of change, it’s more of an evolution. We’ve got a really loyal customer
base, and for me the most important thing was to keep them happy and to
never alienate them. If it wasn’t pointed out to you that there’s Hainan lantern
chillies, or crisp anchovies on the menu, you may not notice, but that’s how
I put my own personality and my heritage into it. It’s still Etta, but it’s Etta 3.0.

Do you have any vegan items on your menu at the moment? Because I spent
a bit of time working at Smith and Deli during lockdown, I learned a lot about
mouth-feel, and the intent behind making vegan food delicious. I’ve carried
a lot of this with me to Etta. All of our vegetarian dishes on the menu can be
switched out to be vegan. So it’s not just omitting items to make it vegan, but
adding, so that vegans are as valued as any other guest.

What else have you learned creating a menu for a wine-focused restaurant
and bar? It’s been quite interesting. For example, I wanted to put a devilled
egg on the menu, but because it’s such a wine-focused place, there are a lot
of considerations I had to take into account. One of them being, something
that’s as sulphuric as an egg, it doesn’t really pair very well with wine. It’s really
about having as much consideration for what you’re drinking, as well as eating,
it’s been fascinating.
PHOTOGRAPHY ANNIKA KAFCALOUDIS (ROSHEEN KAUL).

What makes the perfect wine snack? I don’t think you can go past an oyster,
especially with the producers and farmers we have access to. At the moment
I’m doing an oyster with a mignonette granita. It’s super bright, super fresh and
you also get that salivation you get from a high-acid wine.

60 Lygon St, Brunswick East, Melbourne, Vic, ettadining.com.au

Brookie’s Gin has released a fruity cumquat-spiked gin dubbed Shirl the Pearl. The
seasonal release was inspired by co-founder Eddie Brook’s grandma Shirl, who used
to make her own cumquat gin. It has strong notes of orange blossom, mandarin and
marmalade. Shirl the Pearl 2020, $80 for 700ml, capebyrondistillery.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 17
News

LOVE ON A PLATE
As co-owner of Pottsville restaurant Pipit
(alongside head chef and husband Ben
Devlin), Yen Trinh knows first hand the
trials and triumphs of being the partner
of a chef and restaurant owner, in love,
life and business. This is how she dreamt
up Chef Widow Club, an illustration
project where Trinh chats to and draws
chefs and their partner’s first meals, and
discusses how they met and furthermore,
SUMMER
OF FUN
Sydney Festival is set to kickstart
Australia’s arts and cultural sector,
when the festival makes its return in
January across 21 days. The new
centrepiece of the 2021 festival is
a huge new Covid-safe stage at
Barangaroo Reserve called The
Headland. It will host performances
including a retrospective from
Indigenous dance company
Bangarra; a George Michael-
practical strategies, like routines and
dedicating time together. “It reinforced
inspired tribute by Paul Mac;
and boundary-pushing physical
some of the thoughts and feelings I had theatre from Australian circus
struggled with, and understood they group Gravity & Other Myths.
were common to others too,” says Trinh. sydneyfestival.org.au.
The couples Trinh has illustrated
aren’t always both from the hospitality
industry, but both often have a strong
connection to it. Chefs include Darren
Robertson (Three Blue Ducks) and partner
Magdalena Roze, David Lovett (Ethel
Food Store) and partner Sarah Millet, and
Sam Young (Merivale) and partner Yongen

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (MANGO) & JESSICA WYLD (LEEUWIN COAST). ILLUSTRATION YEN TRINH.
navigate their relationship.
Chen (Poly). Trinh is always on the hunt
The idea was sparked when Trinh
for more hungry and happy couples to
was struggling with her own relationship.
immortalise in drawing, and gifts the
“I was actually wanting to find role models
image to the couples to keep. Along with
and positive strategies,” says Trinh. “How
a sense of camaraderie, the project has
were [others] making it work?” Covid-19
also solidified Trinh’s love for illustration
was the push Trinh needed to start the
and its storytelling ability. Summertime lends itself
illustration project, and she’s now
“One of my favourite and surprise to enjoying beautiful delicacies,
interviewed and depicted 40-plus couples
learnings is realising that most couples and mussels from the Leeuwin
from across Australia. Trinh used the
actually don’t have any visual record Coast are some of Western
project as a creative outlet but also got a
of these dishes,” says Trinh. “It’s oddly Australia’s only locally grown
kick out of shining a light on the partners
refreshing and special in this Instagram mussels. Keep an eye out for
who are often behind the scenes, and a
age to not have photos, to have just great these sustainably grown
major support network for chefs. It’s also
memories, and how drawings can give shellfish on restaurant menus
unveiled some p patterns and other
them life in a different way.” across the country.
chefwidowclub.wordpress.com leeuwincoast.com

Did you know Australians will consume around 200 million mangoes
throughout the season? The messy but delicious stone fruit takes
between 90 to 120 days to mature on the tree, with around 800 Aussie
growers responsible for producing the golden juicy fruit each year.

18 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 T H E L AT E ST B O U T I Q U E A N D LU X U RY H OT E L S
HOTEL NEWS
AUSTRALIA
The Sydney CBD is now home to its own
Little National Hotel (the first opened in
PHOTOGRAPHY ROMELLO PEREIRA (LITTLE NATIONAL).
Canberra in 2015). The hotel is petite and
pared back but still features luxury details.
The rooftop bar and sprawling co-working
space make up for the compact size,
although the cleverly designed rooms
still boast lush custom king beds.
The New England region of Central
NSW has welcomed its first five-star hotel.
Powerhouse Hotel Tamworth by Rydges
underwent a three-year renovation, with
Paul Kelly Design behind the makeover.
The Gold Coast’s JW Marriott Hotel has
opened, and with it come refreshed dining
offerings. Restaurants including Misono
(a luxe teppanyaki and sushi restaurant,
boasting views over the Gold Coast
hinterland) and Chapter & Verse Bar and
Lounge (a cool cocktail bar with a focus
on house-grown herbs).
NEW ZEALAND
QT Auckland has opened with 150 rooms
and suites, new restaurant Esther (overseen
by chef Sean Connolly) and sixth-floor bar
Rooftop at QT, complete with sweeping
views of the Viaduct Harbour. The hotel
is perfectly positioned to experience Clockwise from top left:
some of Auckland’s best new restaurant Little National Hotel’s
expansive co-working space;
openings, including Ben Bayly’s Ahi in the Workshop Kitchen at
Commercial Bay and Michael Meredith’s Powerhouse Hotel Tamworth;
Mr Morris in the Britomart precinct. a suite at QT Auckland.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 19
 D WIT
OR
H
QUI K W

A LA N
C

C UM MI N G
A

The gregarious star of stage and screen

talks about his love affair with Adelaide,
veganism and on-set snacks.

My first overseas trip was when I was about 12 or 13. It was a school
trip to Germany. Bizarrely, we stayed in an industrial town in the Rhine
Valley called Koblenz. I’m not quite sure why we went there, I guess
it was a good spot to base ourselves. We travelled from there to
Heidelberg. I had a few school trips to places in Europe. The following
year I spent a summer doing an exchange in Lyon in France, but
Germany was my first trip. Although I guess going to London was my
first time travelling abroad if you count going to Scotland from England
as going to another country, which I do.

I love coming to Australia. I first visited Adelaide in 1989. I stayed in

a little apartment down in Glenelg and I loved it. I quite like an underdog.
People see Adelaide differently to Sydney or Melbourne, but I just love
that it has so many festivals. It reminds me of Edinburgh, this kind of
quiet city and then for a month every year it becomes this sort of hub

INTERVIEW GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY MARGARITA MENARD.

of the arts and the whole world. I always had a great time in Adelaide.
I like its spirit. So I thought being able to curate the Adelaide Cabaret
Festival this year, and being the artistic director, the whole idea really
appealed to me. I’m always open to doing new, weird things.

I moved to New York to be in the Broadway musical of Cabaret playing

the Master of Ceremonies. I moved there right at the end of 1997 and
I knew immediately that I was going to stay. I loved the energy, the
diversity and how vocal everybody is. I love the compassion and the
kindness and the wit and the humour. But mostly, every time I leave Alan Cumming
my apartment, it’s an adventure. is the artistic
director of the
Adelaide Cabaret
I live in the East Village so I tend to eat around there. It’s my ’hood Festival, which
and where I hang out mostly. There are a lot of good vegan places will take place
in June. Tickets
there. There’s a lot of very diverse cultures and so there’s great,
on sale now from
different kinds of foods. I love going to 6th Street, which is nicknamed adelaidecabaret
Curry Row because there are so many Indian and Asian restaurants. festival.com.au
 Memories

I’m kind of a peasant – I like one

bowl of food that’s all the same
and that I can eat with a spoon.
That’s really my favourite thing.

I became a vegan for a few reasons. I was

so bored of everything, as a vegetarian, being
drenched in cheese. I was really becoming
more cognisant of the negative effects on the
environment and also the whole animal cruelty
aspect. It was a variety of things becoming the
perfect storm. I also started to do concerts, like
the Adelaide Cabaret Festival, and I realised
that when I had cheese my voice suffered. Then
when Mike Tyson became the face of Vegan
magazine, that just pushed me over the edge
and I thought: if he can do it, I can do it.

Comfort foods for me are things like potatoes.

I’m kind of a peasant – I like one bowl of food
that’s all the same and that I can eat with a spoon.
That’s really my favourite thing. I made a lot of
rhubarb crumble during lockdown, I suppose
because it was rhubarb season but it’s also one
of the easiest things to make and it’s delicious.
I love a vegetable or a fruit that just sort of
disintegrates in the oven and you don’t really
have to do anything to it, it just goes all gooey.
I also just go nuts for a bowl of peanuts. I’m very
simple. I also made lots of stews and bean-based
things during that time.

I love having lots of little meals very often.

When I’m on set, my go-to snack is soup. When
I did Instinct on CBS, the showrunner called me
“soup”. It was my nickname because I just had
soup all the time. It’s a great, nutritious, delicious,
healthy snack and easy to make, and everybody
likes soup. I also love nuts, like almonds. I keep
peanuts as a treat. ●

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 21
Five of a kind

Dairy-free ice-cream
Serve up the ultimate summer indulgence with
these rich and creamy dairy-free desserts.

PANA ORGANIC GELATO MESSINA

Raspberry chocolate Salted coconut and mango salsa
Just like Pana’s chocolate bars, this This beautiful whipped “sorbet” channels
coconut milk-based ice-cream is soft the essence of summer. Messina’s most
and silky. Floral notes of raspberry are popular dairy-free scoop is utterly tropical,
tart and fresh, balancing rich, decadent with a refreshing, coconut-milk base
chocolate. Brighten up a scoop or two infused with swirls of jammy mango salsa.
with a scattering of fresh mint leaves. 500ml for $14.80, gelatomessina.com
$11 for 475ml, woolworths.com.au

GT TE
AM
FAVOU

RIT
E

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING LAURA JACOBS.

PAT AND STICK’S
BILLY VAN CREAMY Wild strawberry
Peanut butter choc chip Sydney-based duo Pat and Stick make their own
Delivering superior texture and small-batch oat milk, which forms the foundation
flavour, this Melbourne-made treat of this ultra-creamy tub. An underlying nuttiness
is the dairy-free cream of the crop. is paired with a fresh strawberry flavour.
The rich, gooey base (a combo $12 for 550ml, harrisfarm.com.au
of coconut and cashew milk) is
flavoured with peanut butter and
generous flecks of chocolate.
$15 for 480ml,
billyvancreamy.com.au

CONNOISSEUR
Mango passionfruit
Velvety frozen mango comes punctuated with
tangy swirls of passionfruit and crunchy oat
cookies to deliver both taste and texture.
$11 for 1 litre, woolworths.com.au

22 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
FURNITURE & HOMEWARES | INTERIOR DESIGN | PROPERTY STYLING | DESIGN SCHOOL
WWW.COCOREPUBLIC.COM.AU
 Skye Blackburn
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community.
This month, we meet Edible Bug Shop founder Skye Blackburn.
 Learning about edible insects from
Skye Blackburn was life-changing.
She taught me how important this
practice is; for nutritional, environmental,
cultural and historical reasons. She
encouraged me to look into my own
Chinese heritage, where we have been
eating insects for thousands of years,
which led me to create new dishes. What is so amazing about
Skye is her exceptional ability to make this “taboo” subject
so accessible. She is a natural teacher and her inquisitive,
brilliant mind and genuine desire to share her knowledge
with others is inspirational.
WORDS JOANNA HUNKIN (MAIN) & KYLIE KWONG (INTRO). PHOTOGRAPHY MARK POKORNY (KYLIE KWONG) & SANAZ PHOTOGRAPHY (SKYE BLACKBURN).
T
he next time you’re craving a salty, crunchy
snack, Skye Blackburn would love you to
consider a handful of insects. Or crickets
to be exact, which have a similar texture
to “pork crackling” but are far more nutritious.
If the idea of eating whole insects is a little
daunting – and Blackburn understands it is for
many people – there are plenty of other tasty ways
to add insects to your diet, including cricket corn
chips or high protein cricket pasta.
“There’s so many things to like
about edible insects, I don’t know “There’s so many
why more people don’t eat them,”
enthuses Blackburn, who founded
things to like about
the Edible Bug Shop in 2007. edible insects,
“They are really high in iron, I don’t know why
calcium, magnesium, potassium and
more people don’t
zinc, omega-3, as well as vitamin
B12, and they’ve got a complete eat them.”
amino acid profile – so when you’re
adding the cricket protein to different things, you’re
actually providing your body with a whole food.”
Blackburn’s fascination with insects began
as a child, when she was “that weird kid that had
bugs on their desk at school”. At university, she
studied entomology before realising it offered
limited employment options.
“At the time there was a shortage of food
scientists so I thought, I’ll just do a degree in food
science so that when I finish uni I can get a job.”
Blackburn first started a business farming insects
for school programs. But it was a novelty idea to drum
up interest that set her on the path to edible insects.
“We went on a holiday to Thailand and tried
edible insects and I was really fascinated by them.
When we came home, we were doing a pet and
animal expo and I was trying to think of some
unique promotional items to sell and I thought
about doing some lollipops with real bugs in the
middle,” Blackburn explains.
The lollipops sold out and Blackburn was
flooded with requests from people wanting to get
their hands on her unique product. Blackburn sent
the insects for nutritional testing so she could label
them for retail and was stunned by the results.
“I was actually so shocked that no one was eating
them as food because they were just so high in
everything and had a complete amino acid profile.”
In 2007, she officially launched the Edible
Bug Shop, selling novelty items such as chocolate-
coated bugs.
“The market wasn’t ready for cricket pasta or
cricket chips,” she recalls. “People didn’t understand
the importance of a sustainable food system.”
But with time, both attitudes and awareness
have changed and today, Circle Harvest products
(the consumer brand for products made by the
Edible Bug Shop) are stocked in supermarkets
across Australia.
“People are really more aware
of where their food comes from
and they’ve heard of edible insects
and how they are going to be an
important part of our diet.”
Eating insects is not only good
for you, it is good for the planet.
The farming process uses food
waste to feed the insects and
doesn’t require any water.
“If you replace one meat-based meal a week with
a meal that uses insects as your source of protein,
you actually save over 100,000 litres of drinking
water a year,” says Blackburn.
A change that is as simple as swapping Monday
night’s spaghetti Bolognese for cricket protein
pasta with Neapolitan sauce – or making nachos
with cricket corn chips.
“The reality of having insect-based food is it
looks and tastes like things you would normally
have but it’s a better-for-you version.” ●
ediblebugshop.com.au
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 25
 T CH EN GARD
K I EN
H E ER
T

Peaches
Nothing says summer quite like these sweet
stone fruits, writes SIMON RICKARD.

A fruit with a venerable history

Stone fruits are at their luxurious peak in summer and none more so than
peaches. At their best, peaches are richly perfumed, sweet and dripping with juice.
It’s no wonder that Chinese culture associates the peach with heaven where, in
one tale, Peaches of Immortality grow in the mythical Mt Kunlun garden of the
goddess Xiwangmu, whose name means Queen Mother of the West. The image
of the peach occurs everywhere in Chinese decorative arts; as likely to be found
embroidered on silken imperial robes as it is printed on plastic takeaway crockery.
From its Chinese heartland, this precious fruit made its way west along the
Silk Route, joined by its smooth-skinned Turkmen cousin, the nectarine, to the
Persian Empire. From Persia, the peach travelled to Greece and Rome, hence its
Latin name, Prunus persica, ‘Persian plum’. Spanish explorers took the peach to
the Americas and then to France and chilly England, where they require a certain
amount of cosseting for healthy growth. King John was said to have possibly died
from a surfeit of peaches in 1216, shortly after he signed the Magna Carta.
Clearly, he was not eating the immortality variety.
Peaches need careful handling and ripening to live up to their potential.
Shop-bought fruit can be a little hit and miss. There is nothing more
disappointing than biting into a woolly, tasteless peach, so it pays to be choosy
when purchasing peaches. Perfume is a good guide to ripeness, so make sure
you sniff or, better still, taste before you buy. If you have the inclination, you
might like to try growing your own.
ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES.

New
to GT
Growing your own
Peaches and nectarines are among
am the easiest
and most rewarding backyard fruit to grow. Most
deciduous fruits, such as apples, pears, raspberries
and cherries have a high chilling requirement,
which means they need an extended period of
frosty weather in order to set a crop. Not so peaches
and nectarines. They only need a few weeks of
reasonably crisp weather to bear fruit. Even Sydney,
Auckland, Perth and Brisbane have sufficient
winter chill for peaches, as well as all the other
southern capitals.
The trees bloom in July and August, and the
blossom is extremely ornamental, so they earn
their keep in the backyard for that reason, too.
Unlike apples and pears, most varieties of peach
and nectarine are self-fertile, so you only need
one tree to obtain a crop.
All fruit trees are highly-bred beasts and almost
all require some kind of spraying regime to remain
healthy, even if you plan to grow them organically.
The main affliction of peaches is the fungal disease
curly leaf. You will need to spray your tree for this
debilitating condition. Luckily several relatively
innocuous products are available for this purpose.
You won’t be the only one who’ll want to eat
your luscious peaches; you’ll need to protect them
against parrots, possums and fruit bats. All the
rubber snakes, plastic owls and suspended CDs
in the world won’t protect your crop long term.
A physical barrier placed over the tree well in
advance of harvest is the only solution. Different
Simon is a
states have different laws regarding animal netting,
professional so make sure you check these first.
gardener, Perhaps the worst pest is the dreaded fruit fly.
author and It’s impossible to eliminate them completely, but
baroque
bassoonist. setting pheromone lures is the most practical
@simon_rickard management technique for home gardeners.
Grow your own
Pruning peach trees is relatively straightforward.
Peaches bear their flowers and fruit on weak, twiggy
growths produced the previous summer. Once they
have fruited, these twiggy growths won’t produce
a second crop, so it’s simply a case of removing them
after fruiting to encourage more to grow. If you do
this in late summer rather than winter, it will help
to keep your tree compact.
Choosing what to plant
Peaches are best planted in winter, while dormant,
as bare-root trees. Dwarfing rootstocks are available
now, resulting in a tree that’s about 2m x 2m in
size. There are also genetically dwarf varieties,
which are extremely compact and highly
ornamental but frankly, not very productive.
One of the best backyard varieties for cooler
areas is the Australian white-fleshed heirloom
‘Anzac’. The fruit is not overly sweet or large,
but its musky perfume is mouthwatering and
the tree itself is fairly resistant to curly leaf.
‘Fragar’ is another Australian heirloom white
peach, which crops later in the season than
‘Anzac’, so it’s good for extending your harvest
season. ‘Flavorcrest’ is a large yellow freestone
fruit, firm enough to stand up to poaching and
baking, but if you want to preserve peaches,
choose clingstone varieties bred specifically for
that purpose, such as ‘Golden Queen’. Good
backyard nectarines include the luscious white-
fleshed New Zealand heirloom variety, ‘Goldmine’,
and the yellow-fleshed ‘Flavortop’, which polishes
up as brightly as any red apple.
For regions with short or mild winters, try
growing ‘Tropic Beauty’ peaches, or your own
Peaches of Immortality; the doughnut-shaped
Chinese heirloom, ‘China Flat’. ●
Unlike apples and pears,
most varieties of peach
and nectarine are self-
fertile, so you only need
one tree to obtain a crop.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 27
 New
to GT

Riverland
SOU TH AUST R A LIA
SAMANTHA PAYNE explores a misunderstood wine
region that’s earning international renown.

D
rive two hours north-east of Adelaide
and you’ll find yourself in a wine region
that crushes more than a quarter of
Australia’s wine grapes each year. While it
doesn’t boast the history of neighbouring
Barossa, or have the flash of McLaren Vale,
the Riverland’s contribution to Australian
wine is no less important than its neighbours.
Samantha is When you first look at the list of Riverland
a sommelier,
writer and wine
winemakers, it’s a Who’s Who of big names
consultant. producing upwards of a half a million cases
@sl_payne of wine annually, which often leads to the
assumption that the region produces a high-volume
of low-quality wine. This couldn’t be further from
the truth. It’s this misconception (and very affordable
land prices) that has led award-winning viticulturist
Ashley Ratcliff to champion the region and build
a groundswell of excitement about fruit from the
Riverland for more than a decade.
Ratcliff makes wine under the Ricca Terra
label, but also supplies fruit to wineries across
the country – a process that he oversees closely
to ensure quality. “We control every step of the
process,” he says. “The vines are hand-pruned

A
ALI
R
ST
AU
H
UT
SO
Clare Valley
Barossa Valley
Adelaide
and grapes are handpicked.” This extra effort has gone
a long way in changing attitudes towards Riverland fruit.
The region’s proximity to the Murray River makes
it a lush and picturesque place to visit, but it comes at
a price. Growers in the region work in delicate balance
with the ecosystem — decades have been spent planning
and researching which grapes should be planted. Drought
management and sustainability are paramount. The boom
of Italian and Portuguese varieties grown in Australia can
partly be attributed to the work that was done by Ratcliff
and other growers in the Riverland, as they realised the
importance of planting slow-ripening grapes that don’t
require a lot of water and can withstand the drastically
changing Australian landscape. Grapes such as nero
d’avola, fiano and montepulciano thrive in the region
alongside 90-year old dry-grown grenache. “We’re trying
to plant for 10 years in the future – we beat our own drum
and show people the way forward with these lighter style
reds and textural whites.”
Con-Greg Grigoriou, who makes globally in-demand
wine under his Delinquente label, calls the Riverland
“the story of the outsider and the underdog”. He purchases
the majority of fruit for his brand from third-generation
grape growers in the region who were early adopters of
alternative varieties and organic farming. He, like Ratcliff,
has always seen the silver bullet of the Riverland as the
ability to produce high quality and exciting wines that
people want to drink – at extremely affordable prices.
PHOTOGRPAHY JOHN PAUL URIZAR.
Once home to the Erawirung people, today we
recognise the River Murray and Mallee people as
the traditional owners of the land around Renmark,
Berri, Barmera, Waikerie and Morgan, which make
up the region commonly known as Riverland.
Wine country
HE RIV
OF T
E ER
T
AS
LA
AT
ND
Riverland
2019 Ricca Terra Juicy June, $22.50
When award-winning viticulturist Ashley
Ratcliff tells you that negroamaro is his
current favourite grape in the Riverland, you
best take note. This light red blend really
lives up to its name – juicy and delicious.
Chill and savour. riccaterra.com.au
2020 The Other Wine Co. Arinto, $26
Beloved winery Shaw + Smith introduced
The Other Wine Co. in 2015 as a way to seek
out exciting grapes away from their home in
the Adelaide Hills. The arinto (from Ricca
Terra fruit) has the green apple, mouth-
watering acidity of riesling but softened with
musky beeswax notes. theotherwineco.com
Needle and Pin Riverland Dry Gin, $55
This sustainably made gin uses “spent” wine
in the still to make the initial base, before
adding oranges and mandarins that have
been rejected by supermarkets. They then
add olive leaves and foraged native saltbush
so you can taste the essence of the
Riverland, one G&T at a time.
needleandpinspirits.com
Delinquente Bizzarro Bitter Aperitivo, $35
Move over Campari, there’s a new aperitivo
in town – and it’s Australian-made with just
a third of the sugar seen in its Italian cousins.
Made with organically grown Riverland citrus,
it features an aromatic base of organic and
biodynamic skin contact vermentino.
Perfect for a summer spritz.
delinquentewineco.com
2019 Unico Zelo Sea Foam Pet Nat, $23
After some unsuccessful attempts, the first
pet-nat from Unico Zelo has been released,
made from Riverland fiano. This tropical
fruit-driven, vegan-friendly wine has a subtle
fizz that is perfect for lunchtime picnics.
unicozelo.com.au
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 29
Cocktail hour

New
to GT

BLOO DY MA RY

M
uch like a cold shower or bacon-laden
recovery brunch, this tomato-based
cocktail is often turned to as a hangover
remedy, particularly by those who
subscribe to the “hair of the dog” philosophy.
The original concoction was simply tomato
juice and vodka, said to have been mixed in the
early 1920s by Fernand Petiot at Harry’s New York
Bar in Paris. The French bartender claimed to have
been experimenting with vodka-based cocktails at
the time, as the spirit was becoming widely available
due to an influx of Russians arriving in France
following the revolution. In 1934, Petiot travelled
to New York to take up the post of head bartender
at the St Regis Hotel. There, he is said to have finessed GT Bloody Mary
the drink, adding lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, For our version of this classic brunch
Tabasco, and salt and pepper, creating the spicy, kick-starter we like to swap lemon for lime
savoury cocktail we know and love today. and add a salt-and-pepper rim. To start, mix
And just how might it help a hangover, you ask? 2 tsp crushed sea salt with 1/2 tsp of coarsely
Some people believe the tomato base settles stomach ground peppercorns. Rub lime around the
cramps, while salt replenishes electrolytes, and rim of a chilled highball glass and dip into the
vodka supposedly relieves aches and pains. We’re salt mixture. Shake off excess and fill glass
not quite sold on that but will agree it makes for to two-thirds full with ice. Add 45ml vodka,
an invigorating start to the day. 20ml lime juice and 200ml tomato juice, and
season to taste with Worcestershire sauce,
Tabasco, extra lime juice and salt and pepper. For weekly cocktail
Top with a skewered green olive or a pickled inspiration, follow

3
us on Instagram
jalapeño if you like things fiery. @gourmettraveller
WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHEN.
AS TO
DK
O
TR
THREE V

Hippocampus Small Mouth Hartshorn Sheep Whey

Born in WA and now
produced in Melbourne,
this organic wheat vodka
is one of the country’s best
thanks to master distiller
Lex Poulsen.
$75 for 700ml
boatrocker.com.au
Distilled nine times, before
being filtered three times
through charcoal, this organic
vodka – made locally in the
Hunter Valley – prides itself
on a smooth, clean finish.
$70 for 500ml
smallmouthvodka.com
Named the world’s best
vodka in 2018, this boutique
Tasmanian vodka is made
from sheep whey, giving it
a unique flavour and finish.
Serve at room temperature.
$110 for 700ml
grandvewe.com.au

30 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 REVIEW
JANUARY

Dining out
We head around the country to
check out some of the best dining
experiences on offer. This month,
we review Brisbane newcomer
Agnes, among others.
PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID CHATFIELD.

Agnes, Brisbane

p 35
 CK LOO
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AGNES
22 Agnes Street,
Fortitude Valley, Brisbane
agnesrestaurant.com.au
CHEF Ben Williamson
OPENING HOURS
Fri-Sat noon-late;
Tue-Sat 5.30pm-late

PRICE GUIDE $$$

BOOKINGS
Well in advance. If you
can’t secure a table, head
to the rooftop terrace
where a snack menu and
desserts are available.
VERDICT
Brisbane’s hot new thing.

NEWCOM
E aged steaks for the carnivores,
TH
ER
Brisbane,
Qld
O N F IR E
Chef Ben Williamson is heating up Brisbane’s dining
scene once again, writes SARAH BRISTOW.
B
en Williamson is a man blessed
with more than his fair share of
patience. It’s been nearly two
years since the star chef of Brisbane’s
Gerard’s Bistro announced plans for an
ambitious fire-focused foray with the
team behind Same Same and Hôntô.
Hurdle after hurdle (from building
approvals to a pandemic) saw Agnes’s
debut delayed until August 2020. But
good things come to those who wait
– the result of a marathon hospitality
effort is a multi-level Fortitude Valley
eatery that lives up to the hype.
Unusually for a Queensland
PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID CHATFIELD.
restaurant, Agnes is a space that’s not
light and bright, but dark and suave.
Like a rather moody trifle, it comprises
a trio of tiers – on entry you’ll greet the
main restaurant, a 66-seater equipped
with communal tables focused around
the kitchen. Downstairs sits a sleek
wine bar, while above resides the
Review
Clockwise from left: bonito sandwich with
white ’nduja and strawberry salsa; and grilled
chicken tails with garlic cream and pickles at
Agnes. Opposite: seasonal produce on the
hanging racks and charcoal pits in the kitchen.
PREVIOUS PAGE The wine bar at Agnes.
with smaller plates, followed closely
by tender octopus with black lemon,
almond and garlic shoots.
While you can gorge yourself silly
on snack plates alone, the mains
deserve some attention. Prices surge
in this section but dishes are designed
to share and portions are generous.
Tender smoked lamb neck comes
accompanied by zesty pickles, ancho
mole and flatbread, while the aged
duck is served with cumquats and
braised greens. There are also two
including a 260-day aged wagyu,
plated with smoked mandarin kanzuri.
A balanced dessert list promises
to satisfy sweet tooths. Order the
Basque cheesecake if it’s on the menu
(which, devastatingly, it’s not always).
Its competitor, the smoked sticky date,
falls short – while refreshingly light,
it’s served lukewarm.
A global array of wines (including
natural) sit alongside smoke-tinged
cocktails. Spirit enthusiasts will be
pleased that this lengthy list of specialty
outdoor rooftop courtyard – ideal spirits is set to grow, with Agnes toying
for balmy Brisbane evenings. with plans to develop a distillery on site.
As for the fare, Agnes is Ongoing restrictions have made
a celebration of food over fire which booking a table at Agnes tricky. It may
forgoes gas and electricity for take weeks to get in but the wait is
ingredients kissed by smoke and worth it. ●
flames. Williamson has wholeheartedly
embraced wood-fired cooking, using
a motley crew of hardwoods (from
cherry to ironbark) across a duo of
charcoal pits and wrought-iron
hanging racks. The result is dishes
that are innovative but not intimidating,
with a stripped-back approach that
interweaves French, Japanese and
Middle Eastern flavours.
An assortment of snacks, entrées,
mains and desserts forms the menu.
Snacks are bite-sized; the scarlet
prawn doughnut a non-negotiable.
A heavenly woodfired cabbage topped
with rye koji butter sauce and crunchy
puffed brown rice leads the charge
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 35
Review
STINA
DE T
E
IO
TH
Barossa
Valley, SA
FINO FETTLE
You’ll always meet a warm welcome at this
Seppeltsfield eatery, writes TORY SHEPHERD.
S
outh Australia’s wine country is
dotted with quirky restaurants,
hipster cellar doors, and rustic
spots among the vines. Seppeltsfield
is best described as grand. You drive
through sweeping, palm-lined avenues
to get there. The historic Seppeltsfield
estate is now a village – the famous
JamFactory is here, with studios,
a gallery and a shop. There’s the
venerable Centennial Cellar,
a sophisticated tasting room, and
beautiful grounds where you can
picnic. Or get married. It calls itself,
with just a little pomp, a “wine, food,
and art paradise”.
And then there’s Fino. Crunch
across the gravel, past sandstone
walls covered in creeping fig, a water
feature, and through topiarised,
ancient vines. Surrounded by all the
history of the estate you’ll find a fresh,
36 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
contemporary, breezy welcome.
And a damn fine feed.
People worry every time Fino
does something new – moving from
Willunga, and opening up in Adelaide’s
CBD. David Swain and Sharon Romeo
have not been afraid to shake things
up. Luckily it seems to keep working
out. The food is dependably surprising
and consistently seasonal.
If there’s anywhere you want to
trust with a “feed me” option, it’s here.
The staff do that little magic dance
where they chat a bit then conjure up
exactly what you felt like, and deliver
it in a rhythm that feels effortless.
When Gourmet Traveller visited,
asparagus (local, of course) was at its
peak. Springy and charry and served
with a perfectly textured gribiche, dill,
and a skinny anchovy that was so
smooth it must have had someone
Clockwise from left: Fino’s open kitchen;
Brussels sprouts and Kinkawooka mussels;
crema Catalana. Opposite: natural textures
combine in Fino’s dining room.
at it with tweezers. The giardiniera
was elevated by pickled caper leaves.
There are pillowy mounds of
gnocchi with globe artichoke. A flaky
yellowfin whiting comes with rock
samphire and wakame, which give
the otherwise slightly bland fish a bit
of snap and sizzle.
By the time the pork comes out
– Hampshire pork, with crackling you
could eat until your heart gave out
– we’re starting to feel well-sated. We
bravely soldier on, cutting through the
fat with a nero d’Avola and a sangiovese.
The wine list is one of the state’s best,
PHOTOGRAPHY SAM NOONAN (FINO), BEN McGEE (DISHES) & JOSIE WITHERS (TABLE).
so pick the wine pairing option unless
you have your heart set on something.
We tackle the wagyu brisket, where
the fat content shows the cow’s
contentedness. The waistband may
be straining, but there’s enough room
for cheese, and the staff are always
happy to let you linger. ●
 CK LOO
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ADDRESS
730 Seppeltsfield Rd,
Seppeltsfield,
Barossa Valley, SA
fino.net.au

CHEF Sam Smith

OPENING HOURS
Thur-Mon noon-3pm

PRICE GUIDE $$$

BOOKING Recommended.
Limited space for walk-ins.

VERDICT Consistently
surprising and seasonal.

EFRE
E R S
H Size-wise, they’re more meal-for-one
H
T
Highgate,
WA
RUN TO PARADISO
The arrival of a new chef at Si Paradiso has made the spot
a genuine food destination, writes MAX VEENHUYZEN.
I
s it a bar? Is it a nightclub? Is it
a restaurant? Despite being
open for two years, Si Paradiso
– picture a European-style beach club,
only minus the beach – continues to
defy pigeonholing.
The thirsty flock here for sharp
cocktails, local beers and lo-fi wines
while partygoers come to disco and
sway to live nu-jazz. Others, meanwhile,
drop in to eat, either in the courtyard
– washed aggregate, amphitheatre
and all – or in the smart-casual dining
room, a vision of 1960s Italo-cool
starring parquetry floors, laminate
tabletops and timber panelling.
Initially, the food was limited to
puffy pizze, antipasti, tinned fish and
other aperitivo staples: not especially
groundbreaking, but it suited Si
Paradiso’s Italianate ambitions as well
as a clientele that, truth be told, spent
longer with the drinks list than the
menu. Following the arrival of chef
Paul Bentley, guests might want to
rethink their priorities.
You can tell a lot about a cook by
the way she or he serves raw meat.
Using pickled red onion and ginger oil
to sharpen kingfish in the Si Paradiso
crudo? Clever. But the real power
move is kombu-curing the fish to
season and firm up its flesh. Bentley
frequently references Japan with
pleasing results, from teaming
barbecued octopus with a zesty chilli
and blood orange paste – an analogue
of Japan’s yuzukosho – to lifting
flash-grilled squid with a punchy salsa
of seaweed, capers and shallots.
The chef is equally open-minded
working with turf as he is surf. Fish
sauce gets slipped into the tonnato
used to dress raw beef. A cucumber
Clockwise from far left: roasted pink oyster
mushrooms with schmaltz, and kingfish
crudo with pickled red onion, ginger and
chilli oil; kombu-cured Abrolhos Island
scallops, pomegranate aguachile and
charred cucumbers; chef Paul Bentley.
juice vinaigrette brings creamy local
burrata and pickled green tomatoes
together. Nutritional yeast renders
schmaltz-roasted pink mushrooms
extra-meaty. The globalisation of cucina
Italiana continues apace – to a point.
Purists have little to complain about
when it comes to the featherweight
Naples-style pizze. Slow of ferment,
puffy of lip – the cornicione to
diehards – and sparse of topping,
the pies remain among Perth’s finest.
and less edible table centrepiece but
still have their place in a communal
setting: recast the pizza as an elevated
bread course, split one between two
or three, then continue charging
through the menu.
As European as it might be to dine
alfresco in the courtyard, dinner is best
taken in the dining room. The menu
indoors is longer, the volume is softer,
and floor staff have the time to focus
on guests rather than look for
a silver table number holder in a ’90s
streetwear haystack. (That’s not to say
the service in the courtyard is wanting:
far from it. The crew here is uniformly
friendly, even the bouncers).
Si Paradiso, while well-versed in
the art of showing guests a good time,
hasn’t necessarily
been considered
CK LOO
a food destination. UI
Q
Consider that
SI PARADISO
changed. Paul 1/446 Beaufort St,
Bentley and his Highgate, WA
si-paradiso.com
crew are, for our
CHEF Paul Bentley
lira, cooking the best
OPENING HOURS
food on Beaufort Wed-Thur 5pm-10pm;
Street. That Roman Fri 5pm-1am;
PHOTOGRAPHY DYLAN MOORE.
– or Milanese or Sat 2pm-1am;
Sun 2pm-10pm
Florentine – holiday
PRICE GUIDE $$
might still be a while
BOOKINGS
away, but a night Dining room only.
out at Si Paradiso is VERDICT
a fine way to keep Paradiso, reborn.
the fantasy alive. ●

CLASS
HE I PRICE GUIDE $$$
C
T
Melbourne,
Vic
F LOW E R P OW E R
This Melbourne institution remains a lesson in how
to do a restaurant right, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.
T
he lift is new. It’s also relatively
fast, shaving nearly 20 seconds
from the once epic/alarming
duration of the journey from Flower
Drum’s entrance lobby to its first-floor
dining room. The old elevator’s
lengthy drumroll may have been
shortened but nothing can diminish
the reveal. That first view of Flower
Drum’s grand, warm-hued dining hall,
busy with formally-clad waiters and
lavish with shimmering lacquered
surfaces and sculptural flower
arrangements, its round white-clothed
tables scattered across the space like
water lilies on a pond of lush red
carpet, is one of the all-time great
opening scenes of Australian dining.
The view from the lift is enough in
itself to remind you of the enjoyable
drama of great restaurants, but there’s
also the joy of being looked after by
a properly professional team led by
Jason Lui, son of chef Anthony Lui
and, with his dad, now sole owner of
the Drum. The service is impeccable,
from discreetly topped up glasses and
timely attention that’s never intrusive
to the delightful series of animals (cat,
giraffe, duck, crab) drawn tableside
onto the plate with sweet-salty plum
sauce to accompany the 45-year-old
restaurant’s deservedly famous Peking
Duck, all crisp, fatty and shiny-skinned
in its soft pancake wrapping.
The menu is as epic as the
setting. Taking classic Cantonese as
a touchstone and a jumping off point,
the list ranges from cold starters like
crunchy-slippery marinated
jellyfish glistening with sesame Clockwise
dressing to signature pearl from top left:
a banquet; the
meat sautéed to exquisite dining room at
glossiness with spring onions, Flower Drum.
Review
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FLOWER DRUM
17 Market Ln,
Melbourne, Vic
flowerdrum.melbourne
CHEF Anthony Lui
OPENING HOURS
Mon-Sat noon-3pm
and 6pm-11pm;
Sun 6pm-10.30pm
BOOKINGS Essential
– at least two weeks
in advance.
VERDICT A restaurant
to remind you why
you love restaurants.
garlic chives and (in season)
asparagus. There are crisp-fried pork
ribs lolling in a pile of crunchy garlicky
rubble and dim sum good enough
(a semi-transparent pork and chive
dumpling) to make the unwary teary.
The Flower Drum menu retains
much-loved favourites but is not static.
Recent additions to add to the must-
have list? A gloriously-textured parcel
of egg tofu with scallop and prawn
meat, wrapped in a Chinese broccoli
leaf and dressed with oyster sauce,
and a take on the Scotch egg where
a dark-hued century egg is encased
in a mix of quail meat and water
chestnut, then crumbed and fried.
The wine list leans classic, wisely
choosing a supporting role to the food.
It strikes the right balance, much like
everything else in this beautifully,
meticulously maintained fine diner.
A new bar will add another
string to the bow of this
institution that remains one
of Melbourne’s great lessons
in how to do a restaurant right. ●
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 39
Invite a
rich, dark
& mysterious
stranger
to breakfast

Kumato® Tomato
Breakfast Burger

Be adventurous. Add the dark colour and rich, bold

flavour of Kumato® tomatoes to salads, sandwiches and snacks.
For inspiring recipe ideas visit perfection.com.au
 FAST
JANUARY

Create simple, flavourful meals in less than

30 minutes with these everyday recipes.

Photography ALICIA TAYLOR Styling STEVE PEARCE

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE
Recipes & food preparation JESSICA BROOK

Noodle salad with pickled watermelon
and charred squid SERVES 4
700 gm watermelon, peeled
2 limes
2 long red chillies, chopped,
plus extra to serve
2 tbsp fish sauce
1 tbsp caster sugar
250 gm thick dried rice noodles
800 gm squid, cleaned, scored and cut
into 3cm pieces, tentacles reserved
1 tbsp vegetable oil
80 gm (1 cup) Savoy cabbage, shredded
2 red shallots, thinly sliced
2 cups (loosely packed) mixed Asian
herbs, such as Thai basil, spearmint
and purple shiso leaves, to serve
42 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
1 For pickled watermelon, cut 500gm
watermelon into triangles and place
in a bowl. Add the juice of 1 lime and
½ tsp salt flakes, toss to combine,
and refrigerate to pickle (10 minutes).
2 For nahm jim, process remaining
watermelon and chilli in a blender until
smooth. Finely grate rind then juice
remaining lime and add to watermelon
mixture with fish sauce and sugar and
mix to combine. Set aside.
3 Meanwhile, place noodles in a large
heatproof bowl and cover with boiling
water; stand until soft (10 minutes). Drain,
refresh with cold water, then drain again.
MIX IT UP
Try prawns or salmon
instead of the squid.
4 Heat oil in a wok or large frying pan
over high heat. Add squid, season to
taste, and cook until lightly charred
and just cooked (2-3 minutes).
5 Combine squid, noodles, pickled
watermelon, cabbage, shallot and half
the herbs in a bowl and toss with
dressing to coat. Top with remaining
herbs to serve.
 EDY .
PE M

AK
PER

E IT I
U
. S

N
UN
DER

Char-grilled bread
and lettuce salad with
dukkah praline SERVES 4
2 tbsp dukkah
50 gm (¼ cup) pepitas, chopped
110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar
60 ml (¼ cup) white wine vinegar
60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
8 slices ciabatta
2 baby cos lettuces, quartered
125 ml (½ cup) buttermilk
60 gm parmesan, finely grated
1 tsp prepared horseradish
2 tbsp chopped chives

1 Sprinkle dukkah and pepitas on

a baking tray lined with baking paper.
Combine sugar and 2 tbsp vinegar in
a small saucepan and stir over medium-
high heat until sugar dissolves (1 minute).
Bring to the boil and cook until dark
caramel in colour (4-5 minutes) then
pour over pepita mixture. Stand until
cool and set (8 minutes).
2 Meanwhile, heat a barbecue or
char-grill pan to high heat. Drizzle
bread with 1 tbsp oil then grill until
lightly charred (2 minutes).
3 Combine buttermilk, parmesan,
horseradish and remaining oil and
vinegar in a small bowl and whisk
to combine.
4 Place lettuce, bread and herbs on
a large serving platter. Roughly chop
praline and scatter over salad. Drizzle
with dressing to serve. ➤

COOKING TIP
For extra flavour, try grilling
the lettuce wedges for 1 minute
on each side before drizzling
with dressing.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 43
 Israeli couscous with beans
and pistachio dressing SERVES 4
250 gm Israeli couscous
100 gm each green and yellow beans,
trimmed
80 gm pistachio nuts, plus extra
(chopped) to serve
½ cup (loosely packed) mint
½ cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley,
plus extra to serve
1 garlic clove, finely grated
44 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Finely grated rind and juice of
1 lemon
60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
1 each Granny Smith and red
apples, unpeeled, thinly sliced
250 gm mixed radishes, thinly sliced
1 Heat a saucepan over medium-high
heat, add couscous and stir to toast
(1-2 minutes). Add 500ml (2 cups) water
and a pinch of salt, bring to the boil,
reduce heat to medium, cover and
simmer until tender (8-10 minutes).
Drain excess liquid and set aside.
2 Meanwhile, cook beans in boiling
salted water until al dente (2 minutes).
Process pistachios, mint, parsley, garlic,
rind, juice and oil in a food processor
until finely chopped. Season to taste.
3 Combine couscous with ¾ of the
pistachio dressing. Serve topped with
beans, apple and radish. Drizzle with
extra dressing and top with extra herbs
and pistachios.
PRODUCE TIP
Use new-season gala apples
for the best flavour. For
a non-vegan option, top with
crumbled goat’s cheese.
 Spaghetti with “no cook”
tomato-chilli sauce SERVES 4
500 gm mixed tomatoes, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp honey
60 ml (¼ cup) Sherry vinegar
½ tsp chilli flakes
½ cup (loosely packed) finely chopped
flat-leaf parsley
400 gm spaghetti
100 gm unsalted butter, chopped
65 gm (⅓ cup) baby capers,
rinsed and drained
140 gm (½ cup) Greek yoghurt

1 Combine tomatoes, garlic, honey,

vinegar, chilli flakes and parsley in
EDY .
PE M a large bowl. Season to taste and
S

AK

toss to combine. Set aside.

PER

E IT I

2 Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large

U

saucepan of boiling salted water until

. S

al dente (6-7 minutes). Drain (reserve

UN
DER
125ml pasta water). Add pasta to
tomatoes and toss well to combine.
3 Heat butter in a saucepan over high
heat and cook until foaming and nut
brown (2-3 minutes). Add capers and
cook until crisp and butter is brown
(1 minute) then remove from heat.
4 Divide pasta between bowls. Top
with yoghurt, burnt butter and capers. ➤

PRODUCE TIP
We used a mixture of oxheart and
vine-ripened cherry tomatoes
but any variety will work as long
as they are juicy and ripe.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 45
 COOKING TIP
You will need 1½ cups of uncooked rice
to make 4 cups of cooked rice. Rice
freezes well so it pays to cook double
and freeze half for another day.

Egg fried rice with lettuce,

bacon and mustard seeds SERVES 4
60 ml (¼ cup) peanut or vegetable oil
1 tbsp shredded ginger
200 gm streaky bacon rashers, chopped
1 tbsp brown mustard seeds
4 cups cooked long-grain rice, cooled
160 gm frozen baby peas, thawed
60 ml (¼ cup) kecap manis
4 eggs
2 spring onions, thinly sliced, to serve
½ iceberg lettuce, cut into wedges
XO sauce and prawn crackers, to serve
1 Heat 2 tbsp oil in a wok or large frying
pan over high heat. Add ginger and cook
until golden and crisp (30 seconds).
Remove with a slotted spoon and set
aside. Add bacon and cook, tossing
occasionally until crisp (4 minutes). Add
mustard seeds and cook until starting
to pop (1 minute). Add rice and peas,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until
rice starts to crisp (4 minutes).
2 Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in
a frying pan over medium heat. Cook
eggs, in two batches, until soft-fried
(2-3 minutes) then flip (1 minute). Roughly
chop and add to rice with spring onion.
3 Serve fried rice topped with crisp
ginger and iceberg lettuce. Drizzle with
kecap manis and serve with XO sauce
and prawn crackers.

46 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 SERVING SUGGESTION
For a more substantial meal, serve with steamed
rice or quinoa. You can also use skin-on chicken
thigh cutlets instead of spatchcock if you prefer.

Lemongrass
spatchcocks with salted
lime dressing SERVES 4
2 lemongrass stalks, halved lengthways
4 spatchcocks (350gm each), butterflied
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp honey
2 tbsp dark soy
Finely grated zest and chopped flesh
of 2 limes
2 long green chillies, finely chopped
1 tbsp finely chopped coriander stems
250 gm baby cucumbers,
halved lengthways
2 pink grapefruits, peeled and sliced
1 cup coriander and watercress leaves,
to serve

1 Preheat oven to 220°C. Place

lemongrass in a large roasting pan,
then top with spatchcocks. Combine
garlic, honey and soy in a small bowl
and brush over spatchcocks. Roast
until caramelised and cooked through
(20 minutes), then rest (5 minutes).
2 For dressing, place lime zest, flesh
and any juice, chopped coriander,
chilli and 2 tsp salt flakes in a small
bowl and mix well to combine.
3 Combine cucumber, grapefruit,
coriander and watercress leaves in
a bowl. Serve spatchcocks with salad
and salted lime dressing on the side. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 47
 Grilled snapper
with lemon relish
dressing SERVES 4
4 whole snapper (about 300gm each)
80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
1 lemon, scrubbed and chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar
60 ml (¼ cup) white wine vinegar
½ tsp fennel seeds
2 tbsp lemon juice, extra
¼ cup dill sprigs, finely chopped, plus
extra to serve
Mixed salad leaves and steamed chat
potatoes, to serve

1 Heat a barbecue or chargrill pan

over high heat. Cut 3 slashes into
each side of fish, drizzle with 1 tbsp
oil, and season to taste. Barbecue fish,
turning carefully half way, until charred
and just cooked through (15 minutes).
2 Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp oil in
a non-stick frying pan over medium
heat. Add lemon, garlic, sugar and
vinegar and bring to a simmer, stirring
to dissolve sugar. Add fennel seeds,
reduce heat and cook until lemon
is tender and vinegar is reduced
(10 minutes). Add 2 tbsp oil, lemon
juice and dill, and season to taste.
3 Transfer fish to serving plates, top
with lemon dressing, then scatter
with extra dill. Serve with salad
leaves and potatoes. ●

ALSO TRY...
Use the punchy lemon
dressing with all types of
seafood, or alongside
chicken or lamb.

48 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 FA M O U S
AUSTRALIAN
STYLE

FA MOU S
POL I S H
GLASS

k r osno. c om .au
Featuring Duet, a collection of g lassware pairs. N ow available in leading homewares and depar tment stores.
Lebanese pickles
Pickles are a versatile fridge staple, adding
brightness to any snack plate or meze spread.
 P
ickles can be as simple as
vegetables packed into jars
with vinegar, the result being
a pickle that’s crisp and sharp.
Sugar and other flavourings will
balance acidity and add complexity.
The recipe here is for Lebanese
pickled turnip, beetroot and apple,
which is traditionally served as part
of a meze platter. As the turnip pickles,
it first turns pink, then beetroot red
and, by the end of the process, the two
vegetables are indistinguishable. This
recipe makes 10 cups.
2 3
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY & WILLIAM MEPPEM. STYLIST SOPHIA YOUNG.
Step by step
1 Stir 2 tbsp fine sea salt and 2 tbsp
caster sugar with 125ml (1/2 cup)
boiling water in a large jug until
dissolved. Add 375ml (11/2 cups) cold
tap water, 750ml (3 cups) white wine
vinegar and 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced.
2 Peel 1kg turnips and 2 medium
beetroots, then cut into 1cm-thick
wedges. Peel and core 1 Granny Smith
apple and cut into thin wedges.
3 Divide turnip, beetroot and apple
among sterilised jars, packing in
Methods for sterilising jars
1 Put jars and lids through the hottest cycle of a dishwasher without using
any detergent. 2 Lie down jars and lids in a hot water urn, cover with cold
water then cover boiler with a lid. Bring water to the boil over a high heat
and boil jars for 20 minutes. 3 Stand jars upright, without touching each other,
on a wooden board on the lowest shelf in the oven. Turn oven on to lowest
possible temperature, close the door and heat jars through for 30 minutes.
Remove from oven or dishwasher with a towel, or from boiling water with tongs
and rubber-gloved hands; water will evaporate from hot wet jars quite quickly.
Stand jars upright, without touching each other, on a wooden board or a bench
covered with a towel (to protect and insulate the bench). Pour hot preserves
into hot jars until filled to the top (unless indicated otherwise by the recipe).
Hold jars firmly with a towel or oven mitt and secure lids tightly. Leave pickles
to cool at room temperature before labelling jars and refrigerating.
3
Notes on vinegar
fairly tightly. Prick long green chillies Use good-quality vinegar that
with a skewer and place one in each jar. contains at least 4-6 percent acetic
acid; poor-quality vinegars contain
4 Pour over vinegar mixture then
seal with lids and cool to room
temperature. Label and date jars.
less acetic acid and are not good
for preserving. You will find the
acid level of vinegars listed on the
back of the bottle. If you want to
5 Refrigerate jars, rotating once
a day for 3 days. Pickles will store
unopened in the fridge for 3 months;
preserve the natural colour of light
coloured vegetables, such as
cauliflower or onions, opt for white
consume within 2 months once opened. wine vinegar or distilled vinegar.
Harsh-tasting vinegars can be
HOW TO USE Add pickles to falafel pita balanced out to some degree
pockets, sandwiches or a meze platter
with dips – see recipes page 88.
with sugar and spices. ●
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 51
Anatomy of a dish

Club sandwich THE BREAD

Classic white sandwich bread
This iconic, expertly stacked is the way to go here. Each

offering can be enjoyed any

time of the day or night.
THE MEAT
It’s never been established whether
chicken or turkey was the original filling,
slice should be lightly toasted,
maintaining a soft chew. There
are typically three slices, with
a middle layer commonly used
to separate the meat filling from
the salad. Each slice should be
dressed with a generous

T
but today both are popular. Some recipes lashing of mayonnaise.
call for multiple layers of shaved meat,
he Club sandwich while others prefer one thick slice.
is one of America’s A proper Club sandwich also requires
greatest culinary crisp rashers of bacon, adding an
treasures and essential dash of salt to the dish.
a comforting stalwart of hotel THE VEGETABLES
menus the world over. A Club sandwich is
There are two apparent incomplete without
birthplaces of this savoury icon the familiar crunch
(both in New York state). The of lettuce and a slice
first being The Union Club of juicy tomato.
– a private social club on Traditionalists will opt
Manhattan’s Upper East Side. for iceberg, while
more contemporary

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER.

The other, an exclusive gambling
recipes use leaves
joint based in Saratoga Springs.
such as rocket.
While both venues claim
to have fashioned the sandwich
in the late 1800s, there is little
evidence. What we do know,
however, is that the mighty
Club remains as popular today
as it was back then.

Find
one

The Langham in Sydney is renowned for its

house-cured chicken club, which comes with
a fragrant layer of curried egg. The Jackalope
Hotel on the Mornington Peninsula offers
a unique spin on the classic, featuring drunken
chicken, chicken skin and bacon jam.

52 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 O N SA L E 4 t h JA N UA RY

AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE AT NEWSAGENTS AND SELECTED WOOLWORTHS,

COLES & COLES EXPRESS AND AT MAGSHOP.COM.AU
 It’s not a crime for him
to tell her she’s useless.

But it should be. You have the power to help

make Coercive Control illegal in Australia.
This is not the man she fell in love
with. He makes life hell for her. She
tries not to upset him and does what
he wants, just because it’s easier.
She’s scared he’ll take it out on the
kids or the dog or her if she makes
him angry. He tracks her movements
and over time he’s cut her off from her
friends and family. He questions her
every move. No matter which way you
look at it, he’s in control which means
there’s no safe way for her to leave
the relationship. Coercive Control is a
common form of domestic abuse but
there is currently no law against it.
If we change the law, we can change
the lives of thousands of Australian
women who are terrified and at risk in
their own homes – from someone they
love. If you or someone you know is
affected by abuse, call 1800 RESPECT
on 1800 737 732.

criminalise

proudly supported by

To sign the petition, visit

coercivecontrol.com.au
 THE SHAPE
OF THINGS
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.

What we eat, how we drink and where we go will all look a little different in 2021.
GRACE MacKENZIE rounds up the biggest trends set to shape the year ahead.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 55
Close to
home
Border closures forced us to look inwards in
2020, driving a boom for regional and domestic
tour operators. This year will see Australians
continue to stay close to home, as we explore
the rich and varied offerings of our own
backyard, from humid tropics and rich red
deserts to horizon-spanning beaches and
humming cities. Cruise the rugged coastline
of Tasmania; bask in the glory of Uluru; swim
with great whites in Port Lincoln; or perhaps
snap a selfie with a quokka on Rottnest Island
(pictured). Across the Tasman, our equally
spectacular neighbour, Aotearoa New Zealand,
also offers plenty to impress. From the South
Island’s luxury lodges, vineyards and ski slopes
to the sailing paradise of the Bay of Islands
and beyond.

C O L O U R YO U R W O R L D
Big, bold and bright are the style cues
for 2021. From fashion to homewares,
it’s all about head-turning colours and
large-scale prints. Take inspiration
from the luscious brilliance of
summer fruit and adorn your alfresco

PHOTOGRAPHY LAURA JACOBS (ROTTNEST ISLAND) & JOSIE WITHERS (DELINQUENTE WINE CO).
dining table with berry-hued linen
and vivid tableware (La DoubleJ soup
and dinner plates, $551 for eight,
Farfetch, pictured). Revamp your
living space with a statement sofa or
quirky glass vessels filled with vibrant
flowers. Be inspired by contemporary
art and design from around the world
at NGV Triennial, which features such
works as the attention-grabbing
mastery of artist Refik Anadol.

DRINK OUTSIDE THE BOX

This year will see wine producers get serious about sustainable packaging – think
less glass bottles and more cartons, cans and the return of the goon bag – with UK
firm Frugalpac’s Frugal Bottle made from 94 per cent recycled paperboard with
a food-grade liner. Challenging the stereotype that cask wine is somehow inferior
in quality, Delinquente Wine Co (High Crimes 2020 Summer Rosé, $45 for 1.5L,
pictured) and Jilly Wines (Jilly Miami Bagnum, $35 for 1.5L) are just two local
winemakers proving exceptional wine can come housed in a box (or a bag).
 Last year’s bushfires left grape growers with severely
smoke-damaged crops but creativity in the face of
adversity has resulted in a number of wine-adjacent
offerings, including co-ferments (when beer meets
wine) and grape-based spirits (such as shiraz-based
eau de vie). Attempts to quickly remove smoke-
infused skins landed on handpicking, chilling
and then whole-bunch pressing. Hand-harvesting
reduced production by 50 per cent but gave the
heavy-hit industry a sellable product. Archie Rose
Distilling Co bought more than 50 tonnes of grape
crops destined for the bin. In support of the
Hunter Valley wine community, Archie Rose is
releasing product in a three-part series, and its
Shiraz Brandy is due to be released in late 2023.
Spirit Lab has adopted an unfermented and
little-to-no skin contact method to combat smoke
particles, with their Mistelle 2020 and Gin & Juice
both receiving a sell-out response.

Popping up
As the hospitality landscape continues to
evolve in the wake of restaurant closures and
restrictions, expect to see more pop-ups and
collaborations as chefs look for opportunities
to support one another and flex their creative
muscle. Alanna Sapwell, former head chef of
Arc, brought Esmay to Noosa’s Wasabi for
three months last year, inviting Adelaide chef
Emma McCaskill to join her for a weekend
PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (ARCHIE ROSE).

residency. James MacDonald, of Sydney’s

Hubert, crossed the border for a cameo at
Adelaide’s Leigh Street Wine Room, which
also hosted The Summertown Aristologist’s
Tom Campbell and Aaron Fenwick. Meanwhile,
British-Italian steakhouse, The Milan Cricket
Club has taken over Sydney’s La Rosa for
summer, showcasing Nik Hill’s take on British
classics like “The Pig Mack”, a pig’s head
schnitzel burger. And that’s just the start. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 57
 ALFRESCO DINING

The Victorian government is investing

$58 million into the local hospitality
industry to help increase their outdoor
dining capacity and cater to summer
crowds. The money will go towards
marketing and the purchase of outdoor
essentials, such as tables and umbrellas,
in a bid to get the industry buzzing once
again. Always a trendsetter, Melbourne’s
alfresco frenzy is sure to sweep the nation
with outdoor dining options expanding
in cities across Australia.

58 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 Wagyu tartare with
bone marrow and
oscietra caviar on
brioche at LuMi.

SUBURBAN DREAMS
As high-end, CBD locations have
seen a downturn, local suburban
eateries have witnessed a surge
in demand. Expect to see more
neighbourhood bars, bistros and
cafés open in 2021, as working from
home becomes a permanent part
of daily life. Some of the country’s
best restaurateurs are already eyeing
up new suburban locations.
Watch this space.
PHOTOGRAPHY MICHELA BONCAGNI (LUMI), GETTY IMAGES (COW) & JULIAN KINGMA (CARLTON WINE ROOM & ALFRESCO DINING).

Snack
attack
In case you missed it, this issue is dedicated
to all things small but mighty; a veritable
snack attack of one-bite wonders. Because if
there is one word that defines dining in 2021,
it is snacks. Once the preserve of fine-dining
dégustation menus, snacks have found their way
onto just about every menu in the country. They
are tiny but potent – and thoroughly delicious.
Death to the main course. Long live the snack!

OLD COWS, NEW TRICKS

While plant-based diets remain popular and continue to gain followers,
many people are taking a flexitarian approach to eating, turning to more
sustainable meat options. Kangaroo meat, which is wild harvested and
doesn’t rely on grain production, continues to grow in popularity on
both restaurant menus and in home kitchens. Others are looking to
retired dairy cows as an answer to reducing the heavy eco-footprint
of beef. Sourcing the meat is becoming easier across Australia – and
chefs like Matt Moran and Lennox Hastie are doing an outstanding job
at educating diners on just how flavourful and tender the meat can be
when handled with care. ●

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 59
T I N Y B U T
PHOTOGRAPHY AVALON LANE (FLEET) & KRISTOFFER PAULSEN (GREASY ZOE’S).

M I G H T Y
Small restaurants pack a powerful punch
with their intimate service and creative,
sustainable menus, writes NADIA BAILEY.
W
hen Zoe Birch and her partner Lachlan
Gardner decided to open Greasy Zoe’s –
a diminutive 10-seater located in the leafy
suburb of Hurstbridge, some 45 kilometres
outside of Melbourne’s CBD – it wasn’t necessarily born
from a romantic notion.
“It came out of a bit of frustration at the industry,”
says Birch. “It got to a point where we thought, okay, we’re
either gonna open our own place and do it our way, or
maybe we have to think about doing something else.”
Their plan was to run the restaurant as sustainably as
possible, with a “hyper local” approach to sourcing produce
from similarly small-scale farms and producers in the region.
Rather than hire staff, Birch and Gardner opted to do
everything themselves: from harvesting vegetables on their
suppliers’ farms to washing dishes at the end of service.
“The space is tiny – about five by four metres, and that’s
including the kitchen and the bar,” says Birch. “It’s like
being in somebody’s kitchen at home.”
With only 10 covers a night, Greasy Zoe’s is at the
pointy end of the trend. But in the last few years, tiny
venues – seating no more people than might be invited to
a moderately ambitious dinner party – have sprouted up
all over the country. Often loosely inspired by the Japanese
omakase tradition, these restaurants favour intimate spaces,
short guest lists, seasonal produce, and set menus – a model
which has proven surprisingly robust, even in the challenging
environment of the pandemic.
“Hospitality can be on a knife’s edge at the best of times.
It can be very fickle,” says Chris Chapple of Templo, a cosy
Italian-inflected restaurant housed in a former butcher’s
shop in Hobart. But with a smaller venue, there are lower
overheads and fewer variables to worry about.
“In good times, we do two sittings every night of around
20 people each, and have the same amount of people on
waiting lists. I’d rather have it that way than having half the
restaurant empty and no one on a waiting list.”
At the beginning of Hobart’s lockdown, Chapple
transformed Templo from a fully-functioning restaurant to
a takeaway shop trading in rustic pasta, lasagne and tiramisu
in just a few days. The size of his business served as an
advantage: it meant he could pivot quickly, retain his staff,
and refocus on providing for the local Hobart community,
rather than cashed-up interstate tourists. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 61
 That’s not to say that it hasn’t been challenging for small
restaurants, especially those located in Melbourne, where
lockdown was longer and harder than anywhere else in the
country. For Mo Zhou and Alicia Feng – who run Gaea
(12-seat fine-diner) and Calere (coffee shop, 15 or so seats)
respectively – Melbourne’s lockdown required some creative
problem-solving. Their situation is somewhat unique in that
they run two tiny venues from within the same space: by day,
Calere operates at the front of the building and by night,
Gaea trades in the back. The couple elected to close Gaea
during lockdown and redeploy its three chefs to produce
a small, inventive menu of pastries, sandos and Chinese
manto for Calere, while Zhou used the fallow period to
direct his energies towards research and development.
Both Zhou and Feng agree that compared to larger
venues, small venues offer many advantages: a greater degree
of creative control, less pressure around the cost of labour,
and a different kind of relationship with their guests.
“We can slow down a bit, focus on service and have
a conversation with customers,” says Feng.
“On that small scale, you’re very close to the guests.
You feel the connection,” explains Zhou. “That’s why we
have a lot of people who come every month.” No small feat
for a restaurant that exclusively offers a six- or eight-course
tasting menu.
A love for that close connection is perhaps a prerequisite
for running a tiny restaurant, with many such venues opting
for open kitchens with only a whisper of space between chef
and guest. For Sarah Scott, owner and chef at Fortitude
Valley’s 10-seater Joy, that relationship is a driving force.
“It’s one big conversation all night,” she says of the
dynamic. “It feels like a dinner party where you’re the
boyfriend or girlfriend that hasn’t met the friends yet.
There’s questions and laughing and drinking and you
just get to know each other a little bit.”
With the help of bartender Maddie Sim, Scott delivers
her 12-course tasting menu in two sittings, three nights

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTOFFER PAULSEN (GREASY ZOE’S).

a week – as well as handling all the reservations and staying
on top of the administration that comes with running
a restaurant. It’s a big job, but with only a handful of seats
up for grabs, Scott is able to calibrate her offering exactly:
“One of the things that keeps Joy sustainable is I know
exactly how many guests I’m cooking for every single night
and every single week,” she says. “Knowing how many
customers we’re serving means we know how to order,
which means there’s less wastage – which is sustainable,
economically and environmentally.”

“Knowing how many customers we’re

serving means we know how to order,
which means there’s less wastage.”

A limited footage can
foster an air of cosiness,
conviviality, or exclusivity,
depending on how the
space is pitched.
Above: Templo’s dining room. Opposite, from top: the chef’s
table at Joy seats 10; a selection of snacks at Greasy Zoe’s.
PREVIOUS PAGES Left: Greasy Zoe’s 10-seat dining room.
Right: Fleet’s 14-seater in Brunswick Heads.
The intimacy that Scott and Sim foster at Joy is
emblematic of the small restaurant trend. These miniature
venues might deliver less pomp and grandeur than a 100-seater,
but that doesn’t mean they are lacking in atmosphere.
A limited footage can foster an air of cosiness, conviviality,
or exclusivity, depending on how the space is pitched. This
is equally true of pocket-sized bars: Melbourne’s 12-seat
cocktail bar Above Board offers considered minimalism in
spite of its compact dimensions, while Sydney’s mezcal temple
Cantina OK! is a more raucous, standing room-only affair.
(If tiny drinking dens are your thing, Bar Americano in
Melbourne, Bar Peripheral in Adelaide and Brisbane’s recently
opened Honour Ave Cellars should also be on your radar.)
In fact, there seems to be some kind of inverse equation
at play: the smaller the venue, the bigger the drive to create
a holistic hospitality experience.
“When you can see from one end of the restaurant to
the other, you can control things,” says Astrid McCormack,
who co-owns Brunswick Heads’ 14-seat mainstay Fleet.
“I love the intimacy. I love the continuity that comes with
having a tiny restaurant. Everything can be considered in
a way that sometimes doesn’t translate in a bigger venue.”
In Fleet’s early days, McCormack and her partner, chef
Josh Lewis, ran the show themselves. After having a child,
the couple realised they would need to expand their team;
now they employ a handful of staff both front and back of
house. As with any venue, it’s about hitting the right balance.
“That fine line between wage costs and having enough covers
in the restaurant is complicated,” says McCormack.
The reality of running a small restaurant is that it
requires certain sacrifices (“You have to have a good
constitution because there’s no such thing as a sick day,”
says McCormack) and a willingness to do any job that
needs doing – no matter how unglamorous. It seems as
if a particular kind of high-charisma, low-fuss personality
is drawn to the trade: McCormack is so guilelessly open
it’s impossible not to feel instantly drawn to her, Chapple
is a practising Buddhist, and Scott seems to be the living
embodiment of her restaurant’s moniker.
The small restaurant game is challenging work, but Scott
wouldn’t have it any other way: “It was never about being rich
or creating a restaurant empire – it’s an expression of our
creativity and passion for the industry. Small just works.” ●
Seating capacity may vary due to Covid-19 restrictions.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 63
O N E
Now you see them, now you don't. MICHAEL HARDEN

B I T E
looks at the rise of the snack attack and why Australia

WONDERS
is obsessed with all things deliciously small.
 S
nacks are having a moment. Once mostly associated with fatty, salty
things served in bars to soak up booze and stimulate thirst, snacks are
now colonising a larger slice of real estate on Australian restaurant
menus. Boosted by the ever-changing flexibility of dining habits and
a generation of chefs eager to embrace their inner snacker, guilty pleasures is
becoming a work of art.
“I’ve always been a snacker,” says Aaron Turner, chef and co-owner of
PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA.

Geelong’s Igni restaurant, where every meal begins with a tableload of snacks
that range from a bite-sized shred of chicken skin topped with cod roe and
smoked ocean trout to house-made guanciale wrapped around tiny grissini.
“I don’t eat a lot in terms of lunch and dinner but I snack all day. It’s
something I picked up while I was working and travelling around Spain.
It’s the way I prefer to eat – small, intense bursts of flavour.” ➤
 Spain’s tapas bars have been influencing Australian
menus for a while now, taking the snack baton from the
previous, formal French-style of amuse-bouche, hors
d’œuvres and canapés. But modern Australian snacks
take their cues from all over, from the street food of places
like India, Mexico and Vietnam to the traditions of meze
and aperitivo. The one or two-bite morsels are designed
for palate impact, playfulness and as a way of scene setting
for the rest of the meal.
Alanna Sapwell’s Esmay pop-ups, most recently in
Noosa and Brisbane, have become renowned for the
intricate and finely calibrated snacks she creates. Finessed
mini-masterpieces like a smoked eel pain perdu topped
with pickled shallots, barbecued celeriac and fermented
celery leaves might be gone in a bite-and-a-half but it’s
a memorable and tone-setting mouthful.
“It’s a fun and interactive way to kick off a dining
experience and being able to use your hands adds to your
senses and also encourages people to let their guard down
and relax,” says Sapwell. “You can be bolder in flavours
with smaller portions and so it’s a way people can
experience a lot more without just filling up.”
Turner likes the light-hearted
nature of snacks.
“I love the idea of bringing all “A good snack is something
these snacks for people to start you put in your mouth and
with because sometimes eating in immediately go, ‘I want
a restaurant can be a little awkward,
especially if you’re not a restaurant more’. But there’s
goer. But as soon as the table’s full left, and that’s the point.” to keep the feeling of ‘sharing’ by
of snacks, there’s joy at all these little
things. It’s like an icebreaker.”
Thi Le’s superb Vietnamese blood pudding cradled in
a lettuce leaf has been a one-bite staple of her Melbourne
restaurant Anchovy since it opened. Le says that because
the “Vietnamese ethos is that you snack all day” she was
always going to have some snacks on her menu but
she’s bumped up the number over the years.
“It makes business sense because the snacks push
the spend up,” she says. “But I also see it as a great way
to showcase the restaurant in one or two bites and it gets
people intrigued. People like variety and when we have
a load of snacks they tend to eat more adventurously too,
rather than sticking to the entrée-main-dessert format,
because they can try different things without having to
commit to a large portion of food.”
Matt Moran has been thinking a lot about snacks
recently, ahead of the new bar he’s opening next to his
Sydney restaurant Aria in the first half of the year that
will concentrate almost exclusively on small one- or two-bite
snacks. He’s had a couple of “activations” in the space,
collaborating with the crew from Maybe Sammy cocktail
bar, and serving up snacks like prawns and abalone toast
and fried duck dumplings.
“A good snack is something you put in your mouth and
immediately go, ‘I want more’. But there’s nothing left, and
that’s the point,” he says. “It’s a way to get people excited.
It can be delicate or hardy but you must be able to eat it with
your hands and so it should only be one or one-and-a-half
bites at the most. You want to be elegant about it – nobody
should be feeling they have to cram the whole thing in one
bite, especially if they have a small mouth.”
At Hobart’s Fico, Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi’s
snack game is based around their Italian heritage.
“When we think of snacks, we always think of something
that goes with bubbles or an aperitivo, using local products
in an Italian way” says Andrisani. “It’s the beginning of the
meal so there needs to be balance, between salty and crunchy
with some acidity to get the saliva glands going. It should
leave you wanting more.”
“It should also feel playful,” adds Rossi. “When you
see all those snacks land on the table at places like Igni
or at LuMi, you feel like you’re a kid in a candy store with
all those flavours to play with.”
So how will snacks fare given all the
associated distancing and non-sharing
rules imposed by the pandemic?
“It was a conscious decision when
constructing Esmay in Covid times to
make it snack-focused to begin with,”
nothing explains Sapwell. “This gave a way
breaking the barriers and interacting
yet keeping it individual; providing
an elevated yet approachable eating experience. I also wanted
it to be an accessible price point as I’m sure everyone has
been hit in some way this year. This was our way of giving
an abundance of food without it blowing out of control.”
Snacks are also labour-intensive, particularly when
serving between eight and 18 of them to every table, like
at Igni, and this leads to its own conundrum in the time
of Covid.
“We used to have one person who just worked on the
snacks,” says Turner. “But we can’t afford that now with
limits on the number of people allowed in the restaurant.
So, until we can serve more people, we’ve altered the snack
portion, serving less but more filling morsels, like a pippi
doughnut with sour cream.”
Snacks seem ideally suited to this strange and particular
moment in modern Australian dining. It’s not just their
individual, single-serve nature but also the welcome sense
of fun, playfulness and versatility they bring. It may be that
snacks are making a play for a more permanent place on
modern menus. ●
 U STRALIAN
TA B

EA

IT
GR

ES
ANCHOVY, MELBOURNE
Pan-fried Vietnamese blood
pudding served in a cos leaf
with pickled ginger, rau ram
Clockwise from left: pan-fried
and ginger dressing.
Vietnamese blood pudding from
Anchovy; crab on brioche at Le Rebelle; ESMAY POP-UP, VARIOUS
Esmay’s saltbush and vinegar dusted LOCATIONS, QUEENSLAND
pigs’ ears. PREVIOUS PAGE Igni’s
assortment of snacks. Saltbush and vinegar dusted
pigs’ ears.

FICO, HOBART
Confit pigeon legs, chargrilled
and served with a black
pepper dressing.

FLEET, BRUNSWICK HEADS

Curried emu egg on cos lettuce.

IGNI, GEELONG
Chicken skin crackers topped
with salted cod roe paste.

LE REBELLE, PERTH
Blue manna crab mixed with
lemon, mayo and pickles,
served on brioche toast.
PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA (ANCHOVY) & DARCY STARR (ESMAY).

LUMI, SYDNEY
Wagyu tartare with cured
egg and bone marrow,
served on brioche.

SAME SAME, BRISBANE

Prawn larb taco with lettuce,
shallots and fragrant chilli.

SHŌBŌSHO, ADELAIDE
Barbecue scallop with yuzu,
tapioca, salmon roe and beurre
blanc, served on the shell.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 67
Coming so
After 2020 derailed so many plans, this year will see a number of new restaurants
open across Australia. Here are just a few things to get excited about.
on
Bar Democratico & Di Stasio Pizzeria
Never ones to rest on their laurels, Rinaldo Di Stasio
and Mallory Wall are planning to open two new
businesses in the coming year. First off the rank
will be Di Stasio Pizzeria in Carlton (next door to
King & Godfree on Faraday Street), which will open
mid-2021. This will be followed by Bar Democratico,
a bar/café/galleria, in the new development
replacing the old Mercure Hotel, just down the hill
from Di Stasio Città. Di Ritter from Hassell Studios,
who did remarkable work at Città, is on board for Lollo at The W
the fit-out of Democratico. Expect new work from The Marriott’s new W Melbourne hotel in Flinders
artists Reko Rennie and Shaun Gladwell too. Lane will include a wine bar, a cocktail bar and
a Japanese restaurant, alongside its signature
110-seat restaurant Lollo, where Adam D’Sylva (Coda,
Tonka) has signed on as creative director. Due to
open next month, Lollo will serve everything from
breakfast through to nightcaps, with a menu drawing
on D’Sylva’s Indian and Italian heritage, as well as
his love for Southeast Asian and European flavours
and techniques. The wine list will lean Victorian.
408 Flinders Ln, Melbourne, Vic

Aru

WORDS MICHAEL HARDEN. PHOTOGRAPHY GARY HEERY (80 COLLINS) & JULIAN KINGMA (MALLORY WALL).
Sunda chef Khanh Nguyen’s second restaurant
was due to open in July but we all know how that
turned out. The extra time has allowed Nguyen
to experiment with the menu at Aru, named after
a group of east Indonesian islands between West
Papua and Australia. Aru’s menu will focus on cooking
over coals and fermentation, using ingredients and
flavours indigenous to both Australia and Indonesia.
Set to open in April, it will feature roast and cured
meats with garnishes and sauces like a finger lime
and bush tomato sambal.
268 Little Collins St, Melbourne, Vic

Farmer’s Daughters
Alejandro Saravia (Pastuso) is opening a three-level
showcase of the remarkably diverse produce coming
from Gippsland, a region in Victoria’s east. The
“Gippsland embassy” is opening this month at the
80 Collins Street development and includes a ground
floor deli and diner, a restaurant with a “campfire
kitchen” on the second floor and a rooftop bar that
doubles as an urban farm. Promising a genuine
farm-to-table experience, Farmer’s Daughters will also
highlight Gippsland booze, including wines by William
Downie and Bass Phillip. 80 Collins St, Melbourne, Vic ➤
 Right: Society’s Martin Benn and Vicki
Wild. Opposite: Di Stasio Città restaurant
manager Mallory Wall. PREVIOUS PAGE
An artist’s impression of Huami, Adelaide;
80 Collins Street in Melbourne.

Society
After more than two years in the making, chef Martin
Benn and Vicki Wild’s new venture is finally set to open
in late March. The pair, who spent a decade at Tetsuya’s
before opening the acclaimed Sydney fine-diner
Sepia, has joined forces with restaurateur Chris Lucas
(Chin Chin and Kisumé) to open their first Melbourne
establishment. Part of the 80 Collins Street precinct,
Society promises sweeping views of Melbourne’s CBD,
along with three separate dining experiences, including
an open-air terrace and lounge bar. Expectations are
sky high for what is arguably Melbourne’s biggest
opening of 2021. 80 Collins St, Melbourne, Vic

Huami Fugazzi’s pedigree is impeccable – Simon Kardachi

Huami hopes to be not just Adelaide’s finest
Chinese restaurant, but South Australia’s best
restaurant. No pressure. SA foodies are rightly
proud of the city’s Chinatown, which rambles
around the revered Adelaide Central Market
and tends towards boisterous crowds and cheap
WORDS TORY SHEPHERD. PHOTOGRAPHY GARY HEERY (BENN & WILD).
(Shōbōsho, Melt) has teamed up with MasterChef’s
Laura Sharrad and her husband Max, most recently
from Nido, the Hyde Park pasta bar. And in excellent
news, the ever-affable and deeply passionate Justin
Lane will be in charge of the wines.
27 Leigh St, Adelaide, SA

paper napkins. Not so Huami, which promises to

be both authentic and opulent. Diners can escape
to one of three private dining rooms, and admire
the 1200 bottle wine wall and huge dragon pillars.
Huami is set to open in March as part of Adelaide
Casino’s $330 million SkyCity expansion.
SkyCity Adelaide, North Terrace, Adelaide, SA
Fugazzi Bar & Dining
You had us at “dedicated cheese room”. Fugazzi
will take over the old Rigoni’s building on Leigh
Street in late March and hopes are high it will usher
in a new era of long lunches at the venerable spot.
It will be old-school, New York-style Italian. There will
be house-made pasta and pizza (of course) but also
lots of meat over coals, tasty snacks, and that cheese.
Eleven
The food hall at 11 Waymouth Street used to be the
sort of place where you’d run a dubious eye over
rows of bain-maries. But a long-awaited overhaul
has seen it gradually populated with serious options,
and at the top end will be Eleven, an elegant offering
by the guys from Sprout Cooking School, Themis
Chryssidis and Callum Hann. Eleven will be proudly
parochial, matching local wines to local produce
to create a modern Australian menu. And forget
plastic chairs and cutlery. Eleven will have an (as
yet unnamed) accomplished chef and a sommelier,
with dining spilling out into a new outdoor courtyard.
The bar is already open and the restaurant will
follow shortly. 11 Waymouth St, Adelaide, SA

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 71

The Tasman
Tasmanian-born, Naples-raised chef Massimo Mele
has been appointed culinary director at The Tasman,
a new luxury hotel at Parliament Square in Hobart.
Mele will bring his Italian and Tasmanian influences
to the table, making the most of local produce in the
yet-to-be-named signature restaurant. Mele started
his cooking career in Hobart at his parent’s restaurant
and has since worked at Donovan’s in Melbourne and
opened Launceston’s well-received Mudbar. The
restaurant and hotel are set to open in June.
Parliament Square, Hobart, Tas.
Nomad Melbourne
The much-loved formula of stripped-back,
Mediterranean-accented, local produce-focused
cooking that has worked so well for Jacqui Challinor at
Sydney’s Nomad is making its way south to Melbourne.
Taking over the basement space formerly occupied by
long-running restaurant Ezard, Nomad Melbourne will
WORDS MICHAEL HARDEN & GEORGIE MEREDITH (ARIA). PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY (CHARCUTERIE).
make the most of Victorian produce and wine from
small producers. Melbourne architect Clare Cousins
is on board for the fit-out of the 100-seat restaurant,
set to open in April. 187 Flinders Ln, Melbourne, Vic
Bar Aria
Aria has been a staple on the ever-changing Sydney food scene,
and remains the crown jewel of the renowned Solotel Group.
Now, the fine-dining institution is set to commandeer one of its
two private function spaces, transforming it into a relaxed wine
bar. The casual Harbourside spot, set to open in the first half
of the year, will be spearheaded by Aria’s head sommelier Alex
Kirkwood and offer a sprawling wine list with more than 80 wines
by the glass and 1700 bottles. There will be a seasonal, produce-
driven snack menu created by Aria’s executive chef Joel Bickford,
allowing guests to experience the restaurant’s creative style and
technique in a laid-back setting. 1 Macquarie St, Sydney, NSW

Core
The last, and quite possibly most anticipated, of
Crown Tower’s string of restaurant openings is set
for February, following on from Woodcut, a’Mare
and the renowned Nobu. Core will be the second
of its kind – an Australian replica of the Michelin-
starred, farm-to-table eatery in London’s Notting
Hill. Headed by English chef Clare Smyth, the menu
will hero sustainably and locally sourced produce,
drawing inspiration from Sydney’s diverse flora and
fauna. If the restaurant’s London menu is anything
to go by, guests can expect delicately balanced
seafood dishes presented with creativity and flair,
along with tender cuts of meat and a selection
of intricate, fruit-forward desserts.
Crown Towers Sydney, Barangaroo, NSW
Ploos
Sydney’s subterranean, inner-city Greek haunt,
Alpha, has lay dormant in recent months, with
renovations at the Castlereagh site set for
completion next month. But there’s something
else in the works from the team behind the
Mediterranean hotspot: Ploos. Set to open in March,
the restaurant is headed for Campbell’s Stores,
a redeveloped dining precinct next to Circular Quay,
where executive chef Peter Conistis has been running
Alpha’s temporary pop-up. Expect Crete-Cypriot
creations with bar seating.
Circular Quay West, The Rocks, NSW
Misono
JW Marriott Resort and Spa has invested $35 million
in the rebrand of its Gold Coast home, and with it
comes a line-up of new eateries. Misono, the standout
of the bunch, is a Japanese restaurant with a twist.
It combines four different dining experiences,
meshing them into one “laneway” that will include
a teppanyaki dining room, an intimate izakaya,
a tearoom and sushi bar. Inspired by the bustling
streets of Harajuku, the collective space will also
feature a special Japanese whisky bar, complete
with its own terrace overlooking the hinterland.
Head chef Henry Bongay has designed a teppanyaki
menu based on theatre and performance, with the
aim of creating a fun and playful atmosphere.
158 Ferny Ave, Surfers Paradise, Qld

Kylie Kwong. Opposite: a selection of

house-made charcuterie at Nomad.

Kylie Kwong at South Eveleigh

Since the closing of the city’s much-loved modern
Chinese diner Billy Kwong in June 2019, Sydneysiders
and visitors alike have been waiting for Kylie Kwong’s
next venture with bated breath. Now, the beloved
Sydney chef is bringing her next project to life in the
new inner-city precinct, South Eveleigh. While the
concept is yet to be revealed, we do know that this
eatery won’t be anything like her previous restaurants.
WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH & KARLIE VERKERK (MISONO).

Diners can still expect Kylie’s authentic and meaningful

version of Australian-Chinese fare but will be served
in a completely new setting. Emphasis will be on
collaboration with the likes of produce from Josh
Niland’s Fish Butchery, Palisa Anderson’s Boon Luck
Farm and South Eveleigh’s Indigenous rooftop garden.
South Eveleigh, Sydney, NSW ●

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 73
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 FOOD
JANUARY

Snacks from
Una Más

p 78

Mix and match

Mediterranean-inspired
recipes from Una Más,
delicious meze dishes, fresh
Californian flavours, and
Hong Kong street snacks.
PHOTOGRAPHY CON POULOS.
 Words GEORGIE MEREDITH

Photography CON POULOS

Styling VIVIEN WALSH

Octopus,
fermented chilli

p 81
 S n a ck s by
the sea

Inspired by the Mediterranean art of grazing, chefs

JORDAN TOFT and ANDREW WANDLESS create petite
plates that are packed with flavour at Una Más in Coogee.

Above: Executive chef Jordan Toft (right)
and head chef Andrew Wandless. PREVIOUS
PAGE Linen tablecloth from In Bed (used
throughout). All other props stylist’s own.
80 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
B
efore Una Más opened a year ago, Jordan Toft
would visualise what was to become of the small,
sectioned-off space sitting on the middle floor of
Sydney’s Coogee Pavilion. “I always saw this space
as that place where you walk off the beach with your linen
shirt on and the top button undone; you’ve got the tote bag
with your things in it, your slide-on shoes, and you kind of
just slide on into Una Más,” says Toft, the restaurant’s
executive chef. “I could imagine the table with a bit of food
on it, and that bottle sitting there with a little bit of
perspiration dripping from it; those whispers of smoke
coming from the kitchen and the grilling on the Josper.
That’s how I saw it. That’s how I felt it.”
Now, that vision has come to life. The buzzy eastern
suburbs tapas-style bar is an ode to the Mediterranean, and
the casual elegance that goes with it. Dishes are small, simple
and reminiscent of tomato-topped pintxos in San Sebastián,
seafood-driven meze in Greece, and vibrant Catalan-style
snacks found on the backstreets of Barcelona.
“The menu is derived from a lot of different seaside
locations, and was inspired by the tone of the food rather
than any specific dishes,” says Toft.
Head chef Andrew Wandless, who moved from Bert’s in
Newport when Una Más opened, worked with Toft to create
a beautifully fresh, seasonal menu, unbound by region. He
PHOTOGRAPHY STEVEN WOODBURN (INTERIOR).
describes the food as clean and produce-focused, while
keeping in line with the underlying Mediterranean theme.
“There’s a couple of dishes that have four elements, but
it’s generally three, so all the ingredients really sing on their
own,” he says. “They’re all quite light and bright, with little
to no dairy.”
For this issue, the chefs share six of their favourite plates
from the menu. Fuelled by olive oil and modestly prepared,
each dish showcases unfussy, coastal creativity in snack-sized
form. Una Más means one more in Spanish and, at Merivale’s
halcyon hotspot, it’s both the question and the answer.
130a Beach St, Coogee, NSW, merivale.com/venues/una-mas/
Octopus, fermented chilli
SERVES 6 TO SHARE // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 1 HR 40 MINS (PLUS MARINATING, FERMENTING)
“The simplicity in the olive oil and crushed garlic means the octopus really takes on
a lip-smacking acidity with richness and saltiness to it,” says Jordan Toft. Start this
recipe three days ahead to ferment the sauce and marinate the octopus. Pictured p78
1 kg octopus hand (see note)
5 garlic cloves, bruised
½ thyme, bruised, plus extra
to serve
420 ml olive oil
Lemon wedges, to serve
FERMENTED CHILLI SAUCE
250 gm long red chillies, deseeded,
coarsely chopped
150 ml apple cider vinegar
30 ml olive oil
½ tsp white sugar, or to taste
1 For fermented chilli sauce, combine
chillies and vinegar in a saucepan over
medium heat. Bring to the boil, then
set aside to cool. Transfer to an airtight
container and refrigerate for 3-5 days.
(see note). Strain, reserving liquid, and
process chilli in a high-speed blender
with oil and 1½ tsp sea salt flakes, or
to taste, until very smooth. Add 1 tbsp
reserved liquid to thin sauce slightly.
Season to taste with sugar.
2 Meanwhile, cut octopus into individual
arms and trim any excess skin. Combine
octopus, garlic, thyme and 400ml oil in
a large bowl, cover and refrigerate to
marinate (overnight, or up to 2 days).
3 Preheat oven to 150°C. Enclose
octopus, garlic and thyme tightly in a
double sheet of foil, then bake on a tray
until tender (1½ hours; see note). Cool.
4 Heat a char-grill pan or barbecue to
high. Drizzle octopus with remaining oil,
season and grill, turning occasionally,
until well charred (8-10 minutes). Slice
and serve with fermented chilli sauce,
lemon wedges and extra thyme.
Note Octopus hands are cleaned,
tenderised and packaged as raw
tentacles from Fremantle. They are
available from quality seafood suppliers.
At Una Más, the chilli sauce can take six
months to ferment. This is a simplified,
but equally delicious version. Octopus
can be refrigerated in its cooking liquid at
the end of step three up to a day ahead.
Cauliflower, sheep’s
milk, pepitas
SERVES 6-8 TO SHARE // PREP TIME 10 MINS //
COOK 1 HR 10 MINS (PLUS COOLING)
“There aren’t too many hidden layers
here,” says Toft. “There’s a good amount
of acid, light spice and the pepitas add
a nice nutty crunch.” Pictured p84
1.5 kg (medium) whole cauliflower
100 ml extra-virgin olive oil
200 gm sheep’s milk yoghurt
100 gm Turkish peppers (see note)
50 gm pepitas, toasted
2 tsp piment d’Espelette (see note)
1 Preheat oven to 200°C. Place
cauliflower on a baking tray, drizzle
with 2 tbsp oil and season. Bake until
just tender (45-50 minutes). Cool then
cut into large florets.
2 Meanwhile, whisk yoghurt with
1 tbsp oil, and salt and pepper to taste,
in a bowl. Refrigerate until required.
3 Heat a char-grill pan or barbecue to
high. Drizzle cauliflower and peppers
with remaining oil and season. Grill until
well charred and tender (5-6 minutes).
Spoon yoghurt sauce onto serving
plates, top with cauliflower and peppers,
then sprinkle with pepitas and piment
d’Espelette to serve.
Note Turkish peppers are available from
select supermarkets. Piment d’Espelette,
a popular spice in the Basque region
of France and Spain, is available from
spice shops or online from Herbie’s
Spices (herbies.com.au). If unavailable,
substitute hot paprika or sweet paprika
mixed with a little chilli powder. ➤
 Wagyu, slaw, green chilli and salsa verde
SERVES 4 TO SHARE // PREP TIME 35 MINS // COOK 2 MINS (PLUS CHILLING)

“This is a nice combination of hot and cold,” says Toft. “We take
really good wagyu and slice it very thinly, almost like a minute steak.”

1 kg sugarloaf cabbage, quartered

400 gm wagyu rump, thinly sliced into
4 pieces
1 tbsp olive oil
2 small green chillies, finely sliced
AÏOLI
2 egg yolks
1 tsp white wine vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
100 ml vegetable oil
100 ml olive oil
SALSA VERDE
½ cup firmly packed flat-leaf
parsley, coarsely chopped
½ cup firmly packed tarragon,
coarsely chopped
¼ cup firmly packed chervil,
coarsely chopped
40 gm baby capers, rinsed,
drained, finely chopped
20 gm anchovy fillets, finely chopped
Finely grated zest and juice
of 1 lemon
100 ml olive oil

1 Finely slice cabbage on a mandolin,

then place in a bowl with 2 tsp salt flakes;
toss to combine. Refrigerate until slightly
wilted (1 hour). Drain well and refrigerate.
2 For salsa verde, stir ingredients in
a bowl to combine and season to taste.
3 For aïoli, process egg yolks, vinegar,
mustard and garlic with a pinch of salt
and 1 tbsp tepid water in a food
processor to combine. With the motor
running, gradually add combined oils
in a thin, steady stream. Process until
thick and season to taste.
4 Lightly pound each piece of wagyu
with a rolling pin between sheets of
plastic wrap until 5mm thick. Heat
a char-grill pan or barbecue to high.
Drizzle beef with oil and season,
then grill until charred and tender
(30 seconds to 1 minute each side).
Set aside to rest (2 minutes).
5 Fold chilli and ½ cup aïoli into
cabbage to combine and serve,
topped with beef and salsa verde
spooned over.

82 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Patatas bravas
SERVES 4-6 TO SHARE // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 50 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

“Patatas bravas is a classic Catalan dish,” says Toft. “It’s simply good fried potatoes, but it has to be
nailed. We add a rich aïoli that’s enriched with good quality olive oil, as well as slightly spiced tomato.”

1 kg small sebago potatoes, scrubbed
2 garlic bulbs
250 ml (1 cup) vegetable oil
400 gm can diced tomatoes
2 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp chilli powder
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra
to drizzle
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
¼ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
Aïoli, to serve (see wagyu recipe,
opposite)
1 Boil potatoes in a large saucepan of
boiling salted water until tender (20-25
minutes). Drain and set aside to cool.
2 Meanwhile, to make confit garlic,
remove excess papery skin from bulbs
and place in a saucepan with vegetable
oil. Bring to a simmer over medium heat
then reduce heat to low and cook until
tender (15 minutes). Cool (30 minutes)
then strain. Reserve oil for another use.
3 Cook tomato and spices in a
saucepan over medium heat until
thickened slightly (4-5 minutes). Stir in
extra-virgin olive oil and season to taste.
4 Add 10cm of vegetable oil to a deep
frying pan and heat to 180°C. Lightly
crush potatoes with the palm of your
hand to flatten slightly and deep-fry,
in batches, until golden and crisp
(6-7 minutes). Transfer to a large bowl
with confit garlic cloves, season with
salt to taste and toss to combine.
5 Layer potato, garlic and tomato
sauce in a serving bowl, then top with
aïoli and parsley. Drizzle with extra
olive oil, season to taste and serve. ➤
Cauliflower,
sheep’s milk,
pepitas

p 81
 Catalan bread,
tomato, oregano

p 87
 Sardines,
sour onions
and currants
Sardines, sour onions
and currants “These sardines are just lightly
SERVES 4 TO SHARE // PREP TIME 15 MINS //
COOK 2 MINS (PLUS PICKLING, INFUSING)
pickled, while the raisins and onion
create this agrodolce, sweet and
“These sardines are just lightly
pickled,” says Toft, “while the raisins
sour moment.”
and onion create this agrodolce,
sweet and sour moment.”

12 sardine fillets (300gm)

50 gm raisins
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
SOUR ONIONS
100 ml white balsamic vinegar
100 ml apple cider vinegar
20 gm white sugar
2 garlic cloves, unpeeled, bruised
5 black peppercorns
25 gm dill, leaves picked, stalks reserved
2 small white salad onions, thinly sliced
1 For sour onions, combine vinegars,
sugar, garlic and peppercorns with 150ml
water in a saucepan over medium heat.
Bring to the boil, add dill stalks and set
aside to infuse (3 minutes). Place onion
in a bowl, strain pickling liquid over,
cover and refrigerate to chill.
2 Place sardines in a non-reactive
container in a single layer, pour over
onion mixture, cover and refrigerate
to chill overnight.
3 Strain sardines and onions, reserving
liquid, and coarsely chop half the dill.
Combine chopped dill, onion, raisins
and half the oil in a bowl and set aside
to macerate (10 minutes). Spoon onto
serving plates, then top with sardines,
remaining dill, remaining oil and a little
pickling liquid, season to taste and serve.
Catalan bread, tomato, oregano
SERVES 6 TO SHARE // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 1 HR 15 MINS (PLUS PROVING, RESTING)
“There’s something to be said about cold tomatoes on warm toast,” says Toft.
“We use the best tomatoes so, with the olive oil and crunchy sea salt flakes,
it tastes just like summer.” Pictured p85
7 gm dried yeast
1 tsp white sugar
125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
500 gm bread flour
3 tsp salt flakes
Fine semolina, to dust
1 vine-ripened tomato, coarsely chopped
400 gm mixed heirloom tomatoes,
coarsely chopped, plus extra to serve
¼ cup oregano leaves
1 Combine yeast and sugar with 375ml
(11/2 cups) lukewarm water in a small
bowl. Cover and stand until frothy
(10 minutes), then stir in 1 tbsp oil.
Combine flour, salt and yeast mixture
in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
a dough hook and mix on low speed
until a soft dough forms, then mix on
medium speed until smooth and elastic
(8 minutes), or knead by hand on a lightly
floured surface. Transfer dough to a large
oiled bowl, cover and stand in a warm
place until doubled in size (30 minutes).
Fold dough over on itself 3 times and
rest again (30 minutes). Repeat folding
and resting 3 more times, cover and set
aside until doubled in size (30 minutes).
2 Turn out dough onto a work surface
dusted with semolina and cut into
6 pieces. Dust with more semolina,
stretch dough slightly and place on a tray.
3 Combine all tomatoes in a bowl with
2 tbsp oil and season to taste.
4 Preheat oven to 240°C. Heat 2 tsp oil
in an 18cm ovenproof frying pan over
medium heat. Add one piece of dough
(see note), pressing down slightly into
a round about 1cm thick and top with
one sixth of the tomato mixture. Cook
until base is light golden (2 minutes),
then bake until puffed and golden (10-12
minutes). Transfer to a separate tray and
season to taste. Repeat with remaining
oil, dough and tomato mixture. Serve
Catalan bread topped with extra
tomatoes, oregano and remaining oil.
Note If you have more than one pan,
try cooking two at once. ●

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 87
Shepherd’s salad

These delic
Snack! ious
et. me
S ze
dy. dis
a he
Re s
m
ak
ef
or
qu
ick
and
easy e
ntertaining
.
 Rockmelon with
shanklish

Photography ALICIA TAYLOR

Styling LINDSEY FRYERS

Food preparation

CYNTHIA ADEY & SOPHIA YOUNG

Rockmelon
with shanklish
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS

A simple, mouthwatering combo

of sweet and salty. Pictured p89

½ rockmelon, deseeded, cut into wedges

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
200 gm shanklish (see note), crumbled
1 small white onion, very thinly sliced
Toasted sesame seeds, to serve

1 Arrange rockmelon on a serving

plate and drizzle with oil. Sprinkle with
shanklish, onion and seeds to serve.
Note Shanklish, a hard sheep’s milk
cheese coated in za’atar and spices,
is available from Middle Eastern grocery
stores. If unavailable, substitute feta.

Shepherd’s salad
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS

This dish is the best way to showcase

ripe summer tomatoes. Pictured p88

500 gm mixed heirloom tomatoes,

large ones quartered
1 red capsicum, finely diced
½ green capsicum, finely diced
1/2 small red onion, finely diced
6 baby cucumbers (qukes), diced
½ bunch summer purslane (see note),
separated into small sprigs
2 tbsp coarsely chopped dill
½ tsp Aleppo pepper flakes
1 tbsp pickled chillies, thinly sliced
SUMAC DRESSING
1 tsp sumac
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 tbsp lemon juice
60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil

1 For sumac dressing, whisk ingredients

in a small jug to combine.
2 Combine remaining ingredients in
a bowl, add dressing and toss salad
to combine. Season to taste and serve.
Note Summer purslane is available
from select greengrocers. If unavailable,
substitute watercress.
Previous pages Smokey Sky
Blue and Celestine Green tiles
from Jatana Interiors. Tessellated
decorative tiles from Olde English
Tiles. Dinner plate in Dusty Pink
(top right) from Studio Enti. All
other props stylist’s own.
Roasted beetroot, walnut and yoghurt dip
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 1 HR 30 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

Walnuts add an earthy undertone to this moreish savoury-sweet dip.

1 garlic bulb 1 Preheat oven to 200°C. Loosely wrap

500 gm medium beetroots, trimmed, garlic and beetroots in foil and bake on
scrubbed a large oven tray until garlic and baby
500 gm baby beetroot, trimmed, beetroots are tender (45 minutes).
scrubbed, leaves reserved Remove from oven and set aside to cool.
1 tsp ground cumin Continue to bake medium beetroots in
60 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil foil until very tender (45 minutes). Set
21/2 tbsp red wine vinegar aside until cool enough to handle, then
50 gm walnuts, toasted, peel and discard skins, and coarsely
coarsely chopped chop beetroot. Peel baby beetroots,
60 gm Greek-style yoghurt halve or quarter and set aside.
¼ cup small dill sprigs 2 Squeeze garlic from skins (discard
100 gm Persian feta, drained skins) and process with chopped
Turkish sesame bread rings, beetroot, cumin, 1 tbsp oil and half the
to serve vinegar and walnuts, until very smooth
(3-4 minutes). Add yoghurt, process
to combine and season to taste.
3 Combine baby beetroot, dill and
remaining vinegar, oil and walnuts in
a bowl, and season to taste. Spoon
beetroot dip onto a serving plate, top
with baby beetroot mixture, reserved
leaves and feta, and serve with bread. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 91
Broad bean
falafel

Hazelnut and
pomegranate
muhammara with
barberries

p 94

Broad bean falafel
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
(PLUS CHILLING)
Nothing beats homemade falafel.
300 gm frozen broad beans, blanched,
peeled
160 gm frozen peas, thawed
400 gm can chickpeas, drained, rinsed
1 onion, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves
1½ cups coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 cup coarsely chopped coriander
50 gm (⅓ cup) plain flour, plus extra
for dusting
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp baharat, plus extra to serve
2 tbsp tahini
1 tbsp lemon juice, plus wedges to serve
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
Flatbread, toasted sesame seeds,
pickled chillies, labne, pickled turnip
and mint leaves, to serve
1 Process broad beans, peas, chickpeas,
onion, garlic, herbs, flour, spices and 1 tsp
fine salt in a food processor until finely
chopped. Form mixture into oval shapes
and dust with extra flour. Place falafel on
a lined tray and refrigerate to firm (1 hour).
2 Whisk tahini, lemon juice and 1 tbsp
water in a bowl until smooth; season.
3 Fill a large saucepan one-third full with
oil and heat to 180°C. Deep-fry, falafel
in batches, turning occasionally, until
golden (2 minutes). Drain on paper towel.
4 Arrange falafel on flatbread. Sprinkle
over extra baharat, sesame seeds and
mint. Serve with tahini sauce, pickled
chillies and turnip, labne and lemon.
Burghul salad
with dates,
olives and
pomegranate
Burghul salad with
dates, olives and
pomegranate
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 20 MINS
The rose harissa dressing gives this
fresh, nutty salad a rich floral note.
300 gm coarse burghul, rinsed
60 gm pitted green olives, halved
1 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
⅓ cup pomegranate seeds
½ cup coarsely chopped mint
50 gm slivered pistachio nuts
6 fresh dates, pitted, sliced
4 green onions, thinly sliced
1 tbsp finely chopped preserved
lemon rind
ROSE HARISSA DRESSING
3 tsp rose harissa
75 ml lemon juice
100 ml extra-virgin olive oil
1 Bring 750ml (3 cups) water to the boil
in a medium saucepan over medium
heat then add burghul. Reduce heat
to low, cover and simmer (15 minutes).
Remove from heat and set aside for
10 minutes then fluff with a fork. Spread
out on a tray lined with a tea towel to dry.
2 For rose harissa dressing, whisk
ingredients in a jug to combine and
season to taste.
3 Stir burghul with remaining ingredients
in a large bowl to combine. Drizzle over
dressing, toss to combine and serve. ➤
Falafel & salad Cas handmade star-shaped
mosaic tile from Onsite Supply + Design.
Shallow bowl in Dusty Pink from Studio
Enti. All other props stylist’s own.
Merguez and shallot koftas with zhoug
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 20 MINS
These skewers are a fast, easy and barbecue-friendly – perfect summer fare.
500 gm merguez sausages
10 golden shallots, peeled, halved
40 small fresh bay leaves
Olive oil, for brushing
ZHOUG
1tsp caraway seeds
3 long green chillies, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
¾ tsp ground cardamom
¼ tsp ground cloves
1cup (firmly packed) coriander leaves,
coarsely chopped
60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
1½ tsp lemon juice
1 For zhoug, dry-roast caraway seeds
in a frying pan over medium-high heat
until fragrant (1 minute), then coarsely
crush with a mortar and pestle. Combine
seeds, chilli, garlic, remaining spices
and coriander In a small food processor
and process until finely chopped. Add
oil and lemon juice, season to taste
and process until smooth.
2 Squeeze sausage meat from casing
and form into 20 balls (about 3 tsp each).
Thread 2 meatballs, 1 shallot half and
2 bay leaves alternating on 20 small
skewers and brush with oil.
3 Preheat a char-grill pan or barbecue
on medium-low heat and cook skewers,
turning, until browned and cooked
through (7-8 minutes). Season skewers
to taste and serve drizzled with zhoug.
Hazelnut and
pomegranate
muhammara
with barberries
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
(PLUS COOLING)
This is our take on the delicious hot
pepper dip from Aleppo. Pictured p92
4 red capsicums, quartered, deseeded
1 tsp Aleppo pepper flakes
1 tsp smoked paprika
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 tbsp pomegranate molasses
2 tbsp thyme leaves
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp honey
2 tbsp barberries (or currants)
50 gm roasted skinless hazelnuts,
coarsely chopped
1 Preheat grill to high. Place capsicum
skin side up on an oven tray and grill until
skin blisters and blackens (10 minutes).
Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic
wrap and set aside to steam (10 minutes).
When cool enough to handle, peel skin
(discard) and finely chop capsicum.
2 Whisk spices, garlic, molasses, thyme,
oil, honey and 1 tbsp water in a large
bowl and season to taste. Add capsicum,
barberries and hazelnuts, stir to combine
and serve.
 Green hummus with lemon prawns
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS
Hummus is such a versatile dip – the flavour possibilities are endless.
½ cup firmly packed coriander
½ cup firmly packed flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup firmly packed mint
1 cup loosely packed baby spinach
4 spring onions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
100 ml olive oil
400 gm can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1½ tbsp hulled tahini
60 ml (1/4 cup) lemon juice
500 gm school prawns, peeled, tales intact
2 tsp finely grated lemon zest
Shahi (see note), crispbread and
Hummus Dinner plate in
lemon wedges, to serve
Lapis from Studio Enti. All
other props stylist’s own.
1 Reserve 1 tbsp of each of the herbs.
For hummus, process spinach, remaining
herbs, spring onion, garlic and 50ml oil in
a small food processor to combine. Add
chickpeas, tahini, half the lemon juice
and 1 tbsp warm water. Process until
smooth (1-2 minutes) and season to taste.
2 Coarsely chop reserved herbs and stir
with prawns, rind, remaining juice and
oil in a bowl, and season to taste. Serve
prawns with green hummus, shahi,
crispbread and lemon wedges.
Note Shahi, also known as Persian cress,
is available from select greengrocers.
If unavailable, substitute watercress. ●
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 95
 Summer graze
Photography CON POULOS

Styling VIVIAN LUI

 Breakfast tacos

p99

Dip into the colourful food culture of America’s

sunny west coast with vibrant recipes from
VIVIAN LUI’s new cookbook, Eat California.
 Barbecued short ribs

I
t’s safe to say California has a lot
going for it: snow-capped mountains,
golden beaches, and just as enticingly,
a vibrant food culture. The seafood
is fresh, the meat is beyond organic and
happily raised, and the farmers’ markets
are a wealth of riches all year round.
Thanks to the coastal state’s fertile soil
and temperate climate, local produce is
varied and abundant, from the famed
citrus to the beloved avocado.
Californians hold a deep appreciation
for the land, the harvest it yields and the
nourishment it provides. Which is why
local farmers’ markets, where berries spill
out of baskets and bunches of kale are
piled high, are a weekly destination for
chefs and home cooks alike. It’s where
ingredients are explored and dishes are
inspired by the bounty that different
seasons bring.
But the impressive range of fresh and
local produce isn’t the only element that
influences Californian cooking. The state’s
cultural diversity means finding vendors
hawking handmade tacos next to a bustling
Korean barbecue restaurant, both just steps
away from a food truck that fuses them
together to create something completely
new. The food scene offers an abundance
of flavours and techniques, and Californians
appreciate them all. It is this genuine love
of food – preparing it, eating it and sharing
it – that fuels this positive energy in
kitchens and around tables, and makes
California truly golden.
Breakfast tacos
SERVES 4
“Tacos come in many forms throughout California – traditional versions from trucks,
Korean tacos, and vegan tacos with jicama,” says Vivian Lui. Pictured p97
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
230 gm fresh breakfast sausage,
casings removed
1 small onion, finely sliced
1 large poblano chilli pepper,
stemmed, seeded and sliced
Sea salt flakes and freshly ground
black pepper
1 garlic clove, grated
8 small corn tortillas
(about 13cm in diameter)
8 large eggs
Sliced jalapeño, pickled radish
and coriander leaves, to serve
1 Heat a large non-stick frying pan over
medium-high heat. Add 1 tbsp of olive
oil and sausage and cook, breaking up
sausage with a wooden spoon and
stirring frequently, until meat is browned
(6-8 minutes). Transfer to a bowl; set aside.
2 Add 1 tbsp of oil to pan; add onion and
Barbecued short ribs
SERVES 4
“Korean-style short ribs cook quickly on the barbecue grill with the slight char adding
a good depth of flavour. The lightly dressed salad cleanses the palate nicely,” says Lui.
1 bunch of spring onions, half roughly
chopped, half finely sliced
1 small Asian pear, peeled, cored
and roughly chopped
3 garlic cloves
1 tbsp grated ginger
125 ml (½ cup) soy sauce
60 ml (¼ cup) rice vinegar
40 gm light brown sugar
3 tbsp toasted sesame oil
150 gm kimchi radish, finely sliced,
plus 3 tbsp liquid
1.4 kg Korean-style short ribs
(5-10mm thick)
2 tbsp neutral oil, plus extra for
brushing
2 heads small gem lettuce, cut
crossways into strips
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
cook until translucent (3 minutes). Add
poblano chilli pepper, season and cook
until vegetables begin to caramelise
(5 minutes). Add garlic and cook for
another minute. Transfer to bowl with
sausage. Wipe pan and set aside.
3 Meanwhile, toast tortillas over
a flame until lightly charred in spots
(1 minute). Flip and repeat. Transfer
to a plate and cover to keep warm.
4 Crack eggs into a medium bowl,
season and whisk. Return frying pan to
medium-high heat. Add the remaining
2 tbsp of oil and swirl to coat. Pour in
eggs and reduce heat to medium-low.
Fold gently a few times and tilt pan to
allow any very runny parts to cook.
Continue until mostly set with large
billowy curds, about 3-4 minutes.
5 To serve, divide eggs onto tortillas.
Top with sausage mixture and finish with
jalapeño, pickled radish and coriander.
1 Place chopped spring onions, pear,
garlic, ginger, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar,
2 tbsp of the sesame oil and 2 tbsp of
the kimchi liquid in a food processor
or blender and purée until smooth.
2 Place short ribs in a large baking dish,
season, then pour marinade over and
refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight.
3 Remove ribs from marinade 30 minutes
before grilling. Heat barbecue grill to high.
4 Lightly brush ribs with oil and grill for
about 2 minutes on each side until lightly
charred and cooked to medium rare, or
your desired doneness. Set aside to rest.
5 Whisk oil, remaining sesame oil and
kimchi liquid in a large bowl. Add lettuce,
radish and half the spring onions and
toss to combine. Serve ribs with salad
and topped with remaining sliced spring
onions and sesame seeds. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 99
Crispy rice
sushi

p102
Crunchy wraps
SERVES 4
“Wraps are
“Other cultures’ version of a wrap may involve pittas, flatbreads, tortillas or lavash. a convenient meal
A Californian spin-off typically showcases greens and market vegetables,” says Lui.
“Wraps are a convenient meal for lunch since they are packaged so nicely to go.”
for lunch since they
are packaged so
190 gm short-grain brown rice left sides. Layer an eighth each of the nicely to go.”
8 large spring greens or large green remaining ingredients: rice, sliced beet,
cabbage leaves (about 250 gm) chicken, basil and sprouts, and season.
240 gm pickled beetroots, sliced, Roll the long end over once. Fold right
plus 1 tbsp brine and left sides in and continue rolling the
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil long side over. Continue with remaining
2 avocados, stoned spring greens and ingredients. Serve. ➤
2 tbsp tahini
½ roasted chicken, meat shredded
(about 250gm)
24 basil leaves
80 gm mixed sprouts

1 Rinse rice in a large saucepan until

water runs clear. Drain and return rice
to pan with 360ml water. Bring to the
boil. Cover and reduce heat to medium-
low and simmer until tender and the
water is absorbed (35 minutes). Remove
from heat and leave for 5 minutes.
Alternatively, cook in a rice cooker
according to instructions.
2 Meanwhile, prepare spring greens.
Lay a leaf, rib side up, and carefully
shave off rounded part of rib with a
paring knife held parallel to the chopping
board. This will make it easier to wrap.
Continue with remaining leaves. Prepare
an ice bath in a large bowl. Bring a large
saucepan of salted water to the boil and
blanch spring greens for 10 seconds,
or until pliable and bright green, then
transfer to ice bath to cool. Drain and
lay on kitchen paper. Pat dry.
3 Place pickle brine, 1 tbsp of the olive
oil, ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp pepper in a small
bowl and whisk to combine. Pour over
rice and fluff with a fork. Scoop out
avocado and place in a bowl. Add tahini
and ½ tsp salt and mash with a fork until
combined. Add remaining olive oil to
loosen if tahini is very firm.
4 Lay a spring green leaf with the long
side towards you, shaved rib up. Spread
an eighth of the avocado mix in the
centre, leaving 5cm on the right and

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 101
 Crispy rice sushi
SERVES 4

This version of sushi is a bit more special with the added texture of the crispy rice
to contrast the fresh fish,” says Lui. Pictured p100

190 gm sushi rice
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp white sugar
1½ tsp sea salt
280 gm skinless sushi-grade fish or 20
pieces uni (sea urchin) or combo
3 tbsp soy sauce
Wasabi or lemon juice, to taste
(optional)
Neutral oil, for cooking
Fragrant herbs, such as chopped
spring onions, shiso, sorrel, spicy or
citrusy flowers, to serve
1 Rinse and drain rice 10 times, or until
water runs clear. Drain well and transfer
to a small saucepan and add 240ml
water. Bring to the boil over medium-high
heat, cover, reduce heat to low and cook
for 10 minutes, or until tender and water
is absorbed. Remove from heat and
leave, covered, for 5 minutes. Transfer
to a large shallow bowl. Alternatively,
cook rice in a rice cooker.
2 Meanwhile, place vinegar, sugar and
salt in a small saucepan and heat over
medium-low heat, stirring until just
dissolved (1-2 minutes). Sprinkle over rice
and fluff with a rice paddle or a wooden
spoon. Cool to room temperature.
3 Slice fish into 20 pieces, about 7mm
thick and about 4 x 4cm pieces or similar.
Chill until ready to assemble. Mix soy and
wasabi or lemon juice to taste. Set aside.
4 Lightly oil a small piece of plastic
wrap. With wet hands, portion rice into
20 (2 tbsp/20gm), rewetting hands
as needed to prevent sticking. One
at a time, wrap rice in plastic, form in
a tight ball and press down lightly to
form a 1cm-thick disc, about 5cm wide.
5 Heat a large cast-iron frying pan over
medium-high heat. Add 3 tbsp oil. Cook
half the rice discs until golden and crisp
(4-5 minutes each side), adding more oil
and adjusting heat for the second side
as necessary. Drain on paper towel and
repeat with remaining rice discs. Place
fish on top of rice and brush with soy
mixture. Top with herbs to serve.

Pizza
SERVES 4

“The key to a great pizza is a light touch with the dough and a very hot oven,” says
Lui. The simple base allows for the sweetness of the vegetables and aromatics to
come through. If liked, substitute squash for other vegetables, such as mushrooms.

450 gm fresh pizza dough
flour, for dusting
340 gm mixed summer squash
½ small red onion, finely sliced
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra for drizzling
170 gm ricotta
170 gm mascarpone
40 gm parmesan cheese, grated,
plus extra to serve (optional)
2 garlic cloves, grated
Medium polenta, for dusting
25 gm mixed soft herbs, such as
nasturtium leaves and flowers,
marjoram, chives and parsley
1 Divide dough in half and form into
2 balls. Dust lightly with flour, cover with
a clean tea towel and rest for 30 minutes.
2 Preheat oven to highest setting and
place a pizza stone or upside down
baking sheet on bottom shelf to heat.
3 Finely slice squash about 3mm thick,
then transfer to a colander and toss with
½ tsp salt. Leave to drain for 10 minutes,
then pat dry and transfer to a bowl. Add
onion, lemon zest, 1 tbsp of lemon juice,
the olive oil, 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp pepper
and toss to combine.
4 Place ricotta, mascarpone, parmesan,
garlic, ½ tsp salt, and ½ tsp pepper in
another bowl and whisk to combine.
5 Generously dust an upside-down
baking sheet with polenta. Stretch first
piece of dough on a lightly floured work
surface to an oval, about 33 x 23cm,
leaving the borders slightly thicker. If
dough is offering resistance, leave to
rest for 10 minutes longer. Lay base on
the baking sheet, shaking once or twice
to make sure it moves freely. Dot and
spread half the cheese mixture over
dough and top with half the vegetables.
Transfer to hot pizza stone and cook for
8-10 minutes until crust is deeply golden
and puffed. Transfer to a wire rack and
repeat with second piece of dough
letting the oven and baking sheet come
back up to temperature before cooking.
Serve with herbs, a drizzle of olive oil
and extra parmesan. ➤

102 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Pizza
 This extract from
Eat California by Vivian Lui
(Smith Street Books; $49.99)
has been reproduced with
minor GT style edits.
Grilled meatballs with lettuce wraps
SERVES 4
“This Vietnamese-style dish mirrors the freshness of Californian cuisine with grilled
meat wrapped in fragrant herbs and lettuce to form one harmonious bite,” says Lui.
450 gm minced pork
1 tbsp fish sauce
2 tbsp maple syrup
1 small shallot, finely chopped
Neutral olive oil, for brushing
115 gm rice noodles, to serve
2 small gem lettuces or mild mustard
green leaves, to serve
Mixed herbs, such as Thai basil,
shiso, perilla, dill, mint, to serve
DIPPING SAUCE
2 tbsp fish sauce
2 tbsp lime juice
2 tsp granulated sugar
1 garlic clove, grated
1-2 Thai chillies, finely chopped
Finely sliced cucumber, radish, green
mango or green papaya, for sauce
1 Combine pork, fish sauce, maple 5 Lightly brush tops of meatballs
syrup, shallot, 1 tsp freshly ground with oil, then place, oiled side down, on
black pepper and 1/2 tsp salt in a large the grill rack and grill until nicely charred
bowl and mix gently with your hands in spots (3-4 minutes). Flip and cook until
until just combined. Divide into 20 just cooked through (3-4 minutes).
balls and flatten slightly. Set aside. 6 Serve meatballs with dipping sauce,
2 Bring a saucepan of water to the noodles, greens leaves and herbs. ●
boil. Submerge noodles, remove from
heat and soak for 10 minutes. Drain
and rinse in cold water.
3 Heat a grill to medium-high.
4 For dipping sauce, combine fish
sauce, lime juice, sugar and garlic in
a bowl and whisk until the sugar has
dissolved. Stir in 125ml (½ cup) water
and desired amount of chillies, then
add sliced vegetables and fruit.
 Har gow

109
p

Pork and cabbage

dumplings

p 108

E AT L I K E
 Chef ARCHAN CHAN
documents the iconic
Cantonese dishes and
flavours she grew up
with in her debut book
Hong Kong Local.

Photography ALANA DIMOU

Styling BRIDGET WALD

Siu mai

p111

A LOCAL
 I
n just a few hundred years, Hong Kong has gone from a small farming
and fishing community to an international free port and global financial
centre. It is regularly the most visited city in the world – with more than
25 million people travelling to the city every year.
Food is an integral part of any country or city's culture, history and lifestyle and
Hong Kong is no exception. Hong Kong’s cuisine has been characterised as a fusion
of East and West, reflecting the cultural diversity and the influence of its Chinese
roots, the years of British Colony and the current day cosmopolitan “world city”.
As an international metropolitan hub, Hong Kong brings together different
cuisines from all over the world. Elevated by its incredibly diverse local food,
Hong Kong has been praised as a food paradise for decades.
You’ll find something incredible to eat in Hong Kong at any time of the
day, and there is something for every type of diner – from humble, traditional
breakfasts like congee; or quick and satisfying noodles for lunch; to trendy
streetside treats like bubble tea and egg waffles; and feasts of roast meats and the
highest of high-end Michelin-starred dining experiences the world has to offer.

Pork and cabbage dumplings

MAKES ABOUT 40

“These are a staple on the yum cha trolley, and probably one of the most widely
enjoyed Chinese foods among Westerners,” says ArChan Chan. Pictured p106
6 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 tbsp dried shrimp
285 gm wombok (Chinese cabbage),
finely chopped
2 tbsp canola oil
225 gm minced pork
2 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tsp minced ginger
1 tsp caster sugar
1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine
1 tbsp sesame oil
⅛ tsp ground white pepper
30 gm finely chopped spring onion
DUMPLING SKINS
200 gm (1⅓ cups) bread flour
100 gm (⅔ cup) plain flour
1 Soak dried shiitake in 250ml (1 cup)
water to rehydrate (6 hours or overnight).
Strain and reserve liquid. Soak dried
shrimp in 3 tbsp water to rehydrate (30
minutes). Finely dice shrimp and shiitake.
2 Mix cabbage and 1 tsp salt, then set
aside until soft (30 minutes). Drain then
squeeze out any excess water.
3 Heat canola oil in a large frying pan
over high heat, add shrimp and shiitake
and sauté for 2-3 minutes until fragrant.
4 Mix pork with soy sauce and 1 tsp salt,
stirring until sticky, then gradually add
up to 3 tbsp of reserved shiitake soaking
liquid. Continue mixing until meat mixture
has absorbed all the liquid. Add ginger,
sugar, Shaoxing wine, sesame oil, pepper
and spring onion, then add cabbage
and mix well. Store in fridge for at least
3 hours to allow flavours to develop.
5 To make dumpling skins, combine
flours and 1 tsp salt in a bowl, then add
180-200ml tepid water and mix until well
combined. Knead in bowl for 5 minutes.
6 Turn out onto a clean bench and
knead dough by pushing it away and
rolling it back, then turning it 90 degrees,
pushing away and rolling back, and so
on, for another 5 minutes. Roll dough
into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and
rest for 15 minutes.
7 After resting, knead dough for
a further 5 minutes until smooth.
Roll dough into a ball, cover with plastic
wrap and rest for another 30 minutes.
8 Roll dough into four cylinders and cut
each cylinder into 10 evensized pieces.
Roll each piece into a thin round. Cover
rolled-out skins with a clean damp cloth.
9 Hold a round of dough with your left
hand, dampen the edge with a little
water and add 1 tsp of filling. Pleat the
dumpling by pushing the dumpling skin
with the index finger of one hand and
pressing to secure the pleat with the
index finger of the other hand. You
should be able to achieve 7-8 pleats.
10 Repeat with remaining dough and
filling, covering dumplings as you make
them so they don’t dry out.
11 Pour water into a large saucepan to
a depth of about 3cm and bring to the
boil. Lightly oil a large bamboo steamer
to prevent sticking and line with baking
paper or individual dim sum papers.
12 Working in batches, add dumplings
to steamer in a single layer, then cover
and steam until cooked through (6-8
minutes). Serve hot.

108 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
HAR GOW
Prawn dumplings
MAKES 24-30
“Originally from Guangdong, China, it was Hong Kong that brought har gow into
the international food arena. These dumplings are considered a test for the skill
of a great dim sum chef!” says Chan. Pictured p107
420 gm peeled, deveined prawns
½ tsp caster sugar
⅛ tsp ground white pepper
2 tsp sesame oil
2 tsp canola oil
70 gm pork fat, thinly sliced
100 gm bamboo shoots
DUMPLING SKINS
200 gm (1 cup) wheat starch
250 ml (1 cup) boiling water
2 tbsp cornflour
1 tbsp lard
1 Toss prawns with ½ tsp salt, give
them a quick rub, then rinse under cold
running water and pat dry with paper
towel. Refrigerate for 2 hours. Place half
the prawns into a mixing bowl. Finely
chop remaining prawns and add to the
bowl with 3/4 tsp salt. Using a clean
hand, mix in one direction in a circular
motion until mixture is elastic. Add
sugar, white pepper, sesame oil and
canola oil and gently combine.
2 Bring a small saucepan of water to
the boil over high heat. Add pork fat
and bring back to the boil. Immediately
drain and rinse pork fat in cold running
water, then pat dry with paper towel.
Squeeze out any excess water, then
finely dice the pork fat. Repeat this
process to blanch the bamboo shoots.
3 Combine pork fat, bamboo shoots
and prawn meat in a large bowl then
refrigerate until needed.
4 To make dumpling skins, combine
wheat starch and 1/2 tsp salt in a mixing
bowl. Pour in boiling water and mix well
with a pair of chopsticks or a spoon.
Cover and rest (5 minutes). Add cornflour
and lard; knead dough until smooth.
5 Divide dough into four pieces. Work
with one portion at a time and keep
the rest covered with a clean damp
cloth. Roll one piece of dough into
a long cylinder about 2cm thick, then
cut into six or seven 1.5cm pieces.
6 Use a rolling pin to roll each piece
of dough into a 7cm circle and lightly
oil each one. Just make sure you work
quickly; if the dough starts to crack it
means it is too dry, which will make
it difficult to fold and the finished
texture will be rubbery.
7 Hold a round of dough with your
left hand, oil side down, and add 1 tsp
of filling. Pleat the dumpling by pushing
the dumpling skin with the index finger
of one hand and pressing to secure the
pleat with the index finger of the other
hand. You should be able to achieve
7-8 pleats.
8 Repeat with remaining dough and
filling, covering dumplings as you make
them so they don’t dry out.
9 Pour water into a large saucepan to
a depth of about 3cm and bring to the
boil. Lightly oil a large bamboo steamer
to prevent sticking and line with baking
paper or individual dim sum papers.
10 Working in batches, add dumplings
to steamer basket in a single layer,
then cover and steam until soft and
translucent (3-4 minutes). Remove
from heat and rest for 1 minute before
opening the lid. Serve hot. ➤
SIU MAI

Pork and mushroom dumplings it becomes sticky. Lift mixture and slap
MAKES 15-20
it back into the bowl five or six times to
make it more elastic. Stir in prawn meat
“Before being introduced to Hong Kong, the earliest appearance of these dumplings and slap mixture another five or six times.
dates back to 13th century China. Other fillings include fish paste, beef and pork liver, 5 Add shiitake, pork fat, spring onion,
but pork and mushroom is definitely the classic,” says Chan. Pictured p106 Shaoxing wine, pepper, sugar, sesame oil
and cornflour and mix until well combined.
8 pieces dried shiitake mushroom 1 Soak dried shiitake in tepid water Refrigerate until chilled (20 minutes).
200 gm peeled, deveined prawns for 6 hours or overnight to rehydrate. 6 Hold a wonton wrapper in one hand
50 gm pork fat, finely diced Remove stem, then squeeze out any and spoon 1 heaped tbsp of the pork
225 gm pork loin, finely diced excess water and finely dice. mixture into the middle. Working your
1 tbsp light soy sauce 2 Toss prawns with ½ tsp salt, then way around the filling, push the wonton
1 tbsp chopped spring onion, rinse under cold running water and wrapper up so that it is wrapped around
white part only pat dry with paper towel. Refrigerate the filling, leaving the top part exposed.
2 tsp Shaoxing rice wine for 1 hour, then finely dice. Place dumpling on a plate. Repeat with
⅛ tsp ground white pepper 3 Cook pork fat in boiling water until remaining wrappers and filling.
1 tsp caster sugar transparent (5-10 minutes). Rinse under 7 Pour water into a large saucepan to
2 tsp sesame oil cold running water until cool, then pat dry. a depth of about 3cm and bring to the
2 tsp cornflour 4 Combine pork loin, soy sauce and 1/4 boil. Cover and steam dumplings for
15-20 yellow wonton wrappers tsp salt in a large bowl and stir until 6-8 minutes. Serve hot.

BO LO BAO to prove for 1-1½ hours or until it has

Pineapple bun with butter

nearly doubled in size. Proving time will
depend on the temperature in the room.
MAKES 8 4 Gently knock back dough, then roll it
into a cylinder. Divide dough into eight
“There is no trace of pineapple in this bun – it gets its name from its golden crispy even pieces and roll into balls. Place on
crust that looks a bit like a pineapple. A slab of cold butter melting in the middle a tray, cover with clean dry cloth and
of a freshly baked bun is what makes these truly addictive,” says Chan. prove for an hour until doubled in size.
5 Preheat the oven to 200°C.
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten 1 To make bun dough, combine sugar, 6 To make topping, combine baking
Butter, to serve yeast and 150ml tepid water in a bowl. soda, flour and sugar in a bowl. Add the
BUN DOUGH Set aside for 5 minutes or until the egg, milk, lard and ½ tsp water and mix
60 gm caster sugar mixture starts to bubble. Stir in egg, until just combined (do not overwork
5 gm instant dry yeast evaporated milk and lard, then add flour dough). Cover dough with plastic wrap
1 egg, lightly beaten and gently mix until well combined. and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
2 tsp evaporated milk 2 Turn out dough onto a clean surface 7 Cut pastry topping into eight walnut-
60 gm lard (or vegetable shortening) and knead for 10 minutes. Cover with a sized balls. Lightly dust surface with flour,
at room temperature clean damp cloth and rest for 10 minutes. then press down on each ball to form a
300 gm (2 cups) bread flour Knead dough for another 10 minutes thin disc. Place a disc on top of each bun.
PASTRY TOPPING or until smooth. Take a small piece of 8 Lightly spray buns and topping with
¼ tsp baking soda dough and do the “windowpane” test: water, then brush topping with beaten
70 gm cake flour, plus extra for dusting if you can stretch it relatively thinly egg yolk. Bake until buns are raised and
50 gm icing sugar without tearing it, that means the gluten golden brown (15 minutes). Cut in half
1 egg yolk has developed enough. If it tears, knead and serve warm with a slice of butter.
1 tsp evaporated milk for a bit longer and try again. Buns are best eaten on the day they’re
30 gm lard or vegetable shortening 3 Place dough in a medium bowl, cover made, but can be stored in an airtight
with a clean damp cloth and leave dough container and eaten the next day. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 111
DAAN TAAT
Egg tarts
MAKES 16
“Egg tarts are a Western-influenced Cantonese dessert, which was first introduced
into Hong Kong in the 1940s by chefs from Guangzhou, in southern China. Unlike
the English or Portuguese custard tarts, this Cantonese pastry is traditionally made
with lard rather than butter,” says Chan.
75 gm caster sugar
250 ml (1 cup) hot water
3 large eggs (70gm each),
at room temperature
125 ml (½ cup) evaporated milk
½ tsp vanilla extract
SHORTCRUST PASTRY
60 gm icing sugar
135 gm unsalted butter,
at room temperature
15 gm beaten egg
200 gm (1⅓ cups) plain flour
2½ tbsp milk powder
1 Preheat oven to 200°C. Lightly grease
sixteen 5cm round tart tins.
2 To make pastry, place icing sugar
and butter in a mixing bowl. Using your
fingertips, rub sugar into butter. Work in
egg, followed by flour and milk powder
until mixture is just combined (try not to
overwork dough). Wrap in plastic wrap
and refrigerate for 5 minutes.
3 Roll out dough into a cylinder shape
on a lightly floured surface. Divide dough
into sixteen pieces (about 25gm per
This extract from Hong
Kong Local by ArChan Chan
(Smith Street Books; $39.99)
has been reproduced with
minor GT style edits.
piece), roll each piece into a ball and
gently press out into 7cm rounds. Press
rounds into prepared tins, pushing
dough slightly higher than the top edge.
Place tins on a tray, cover with plastic
wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
4 Place sugar in a heatproof bowl,
add hot water and stir until sugar has
dissolved. Set aside to cool completely.
In a separate bowl, lightly whisk eggs,
evaporated milk and vanilla – you just
want to loosen the egg here so don’t
whisk too vigorously. Pour in cooled
sugar mixture and stir to combine, then
gently strain through a fine sieve to get
rid of any air bubbles.
5 Pour custard into tart shells until they
are four-fifths full. Immediately place tarts
in lower part of oven (to help pastry and
custard cook at the same time) and bake
for 15 minutes. Reduce temperature to
180°C and cook until filling is just set
(5-10 minutes). Serve warm. Tarts are
best eaten on the day they’re made,
but can be stored in an airtight container
and eaten the next day.
LAU SA LAI WONG BAO
Runny salted egg yolk bao
MAKES 12
“If you like a molten chocolate cake, or a soft-boiled egg, you will understand why
this runny egg-yolk custard bun is so beloved by Hongkongers,” says Chan.
3 salted duck egg yolks
1 hen’s egg yolk
2 tbsp milk powder
2 tsp custard powder
3 tbsp caster sugar
30 gm butter, softened
DOUGH
250 gm (2⅔ cups) plain flour
1 tsp instant dry yeast
1 tsp baking powder
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 Pour water into a medium saucepan
to a depth of about 3cm and bring to the
boil. Arrange all egg yolks on a steamer
tray or plate, then cover and steam for
10 minutes or until fully cooked.
2 Transfer to a small bowl and mash
with a fork. Mix in powders, sugar and
butter until well combined, then cover
and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
3 To make dough, place flour, yeast,
baking powder and sugar in a large
bowl and mix well. Add 125ml (½ cup)
water and stir gently with your hand
until all the ingredients start to come
together. Gently knead dough in bowl
for 5 minutes, then cover with plastic
wrap and leave to rest for 10 minutes.
4 Turn out dough onto a clean bench
and knead until smooth (10 minutes).
5 Place dough in a medium bowl, cover
with a clean damp cloth and leave the
dough to prove for 1-1½ hours or until
it has nearly doubled in size.
6 Meanwhile, turn egg filling out and
portion into 12 even-sized balls. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to the fridge.
7 Gently knock back dough, then roll it
into a cylinder. Cut into 12 even pieces
and roll into balls; rest for 5 minutes.
8 Flatten each ball of dough into an
8cm round with thinner edges and put
a portion of egg filling in the middle.
Fold over to enclose, slightly pulling
and turning dough as you go. Place
on a lined tray, seam side down, and
rest for another 15 minutes.
9 Pour water into a large saucepan
to a depth of about 3cm and bring to
the boil. Arrange buns on a steamer
tray or plate in a single layer, then cover
and steam for 10 minutes. Depending
on the size of your steamer you may
need to do this in two batches. Serve
immediately, and be careful as the egg
filling will be like hot running lava. ●
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 113
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 TRAVEL
JANUARY

Make a splash
Exploring the otherworldly wonder of Uluru, checking into
Brisbane’s vibrant W Hotel, a guide to the Adelaide Hills, and
sun-drenched snaps from Tropical North Queensland.

Langford Island,
Whitsundays
PHOTOGRAPHY JULES INGALL.

p 136
 The art of...
bite-sized travel
After months of restrictions, even the simplest
snack-sized trip will satisfy your travel cravings
like a lavish feast, writes ANNA HART.
 The art of travel

T
hese are words I never thought I’d Victoria’s High Country, or fantasising about
type, but I have become a traveller of sleeping under the stars on my private deck at
modest appetites, delicate manners and Longitude 131° overlooking Uluru and Kata Tjuta.
a sensitive palate. The events of recent After months marinading in our own immediate
months have transformed me into a dainty nibbler surroundings, we don’t need to travel more than
of holidays; I consume travel the way a Downton a couple of hours to feel like we’ve well and truly
Abbey character consumes cucumber sandwiches escaped the everyday. It might simply mean a day’s
and coupe thimblefuls of Champagne. fly-fishing, or paddle-boarding, or skiing. We don’t
Gone is the gluttony of my pre-2020 existence, even need to splash much cash; a microadventure
when my calendar was a bacchanalian feast of could mean packing a picnic hamper and tearing
long-haul flights and my Instagram page a heaving out along the Great Ocean Road.
buffet of salacious travel snaps. All this excess came Cities, too, are once again smorgasbords of
to an abrupt end, but now that travel is finally back culinary and cultural delights. For city dwellers,
on the menu, I’ve discovered that my satiety index a night at a swish hotel across town has never
has been reset, my palate cleansed. And I’m sure appeared more glamorous or exciting; just the
that as most travellers around the globe emerge promise of a hotel breakfast the next morning has
from various lockdowns, we share an appetite for my mouth watering. I live just outside London,
snack-size travel. The majority of us simply don’t and for months I’ve been dreaming about the
yet hunger for long-haul, long-stay, high-risk trips Chinese breakfast at Claridge’s. The moment our
to the other side of the world, where Covid-19 current lockdown lifts, I’m booking in for a night,
stats and regulations change faster than the and I know that this seemingly simple sleepover
European weather. Happily, domestic, low-key, in my home city will blow my socks off. This is
minimal-stress, short-stay the joy of travelling in 2021; we
travel has never seemed are all cheap dates, and can extract
more appetising. This is the joy of serious bang-for-buck from any
Featuring heavily on the travelling in 2021; treat. Feed yourself a small scrap
menu are forgotten domestic of luxury and it satisfies like the
classics, the places that perhaps
we are all cheap most lavish of feasts.
seemed a bit too “obvious” or dates, and can extract The word “snack”, of course,
“overcrowded”. All the most serious bang-for-buck has a complicated history. And
intrepid Australian travellers from any treat. just as snack foods have been
I know are setting their sights on derided as calorie-laden,
Far North Queensland, Rottnest unsatisfactory substitutes for
Island and Tasmania. These easily accessible main meals, so too has low-key, short-haul,
bite-size destinations are classics for good reason, short-stay travel been dismissed as inauthentic,
and this is the perfect time to rediscover them, unambitious and unsophisticated holiday-making.
or simply discover them. But things are different now, and we’re realising
As well as tasting shamefully overlooked local that satisfaction is an art form, an art we have
classics, this is an opportunity to snack on an array more agency in than we’d ever imagined.
of accessible adventures. Whoever said, “go big or I’m determined to ease myself gently back
go home” (a Harley Davidson marketing slogan into this feast of life; I don’t want to overwhelm
from the 1990s, as it happens), plainly never spent my previously overworked tastebuds all at once.
six months at home during a global pandemic. And bite-size travel tastes all the more wholesome
We, however, have done so, and “going small” given the current social and economic climate.
sounds perfectly exciting, thanks, because at least The domestic travel and hospitality industry can
we’re going somewhere. Microadventures are tasty use all the support it can get right now. And this
ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES.

morsels of adventure travel, without the long-haul makes snack-size travel an entirely guilt-free,
Anna is a travel flight, the hefty price tag, the days spent trekking feel-good treat. ●
and lifestyle or on an Antarctic icebreaker. I’m on the wrong
journalist, and side of the world right now, but if I was closer to
author of the
my family in Melbourne, I’d be craving a stay at
travel memoir
Departures. a bubble tent in the Blue Mountains, or dreaming
@annadothart about the quirky charms of Yackandandah in

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 117
 Visiting Australia’s Red Centre is like travelling
to another planet, writes JOANNA HUNKIN.

R O C K
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (AERIAL) & JOANNA HUNKIN (LONGITUDE).
OF AGES
The many heads of Kata Tjuta.
PREVIOUS PAGES Left: the luxury tents
of Longitude 131˚ offer uninterrupted
views of Uluru. Right: an aerial view
of the Red Centre.

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (KATA TJUTA) & KONRAD KASISKE (ARTWORK).

 W
hen it comes to visiting Uluru-Kata
Tjuta National Park, there are some
things you can prepare for. The heat,
for example, is a given. If you are
visiting any time between the months of October and
April, it will be hot. Every time you step outside during
daylight hours will, more often than not, feel like
stepping into a fan-forced oven. It’s why most tours
and activities take place first thing in the morning
or as the sun starts to set.
Which brings us to the second thing you need to
prepare for: being tired. Thanks to the early morning
starts and late finishes, you will be tired. At Longitude
131°, the day’s activities begin at 6.30am, with
breakfast served beforehand. Most tours return
mid-morning, before your itinerary resumes in the late
afternoon, from 5pm onwards. If you enjoy a midday
siesta, you’ll be fine. If not, you will need a post-holiday
lie-down when you return home.
You should also be prepared for the flies. It’s the
first thing everyone warns you about when you tell
them you’re heading north. “Ugh, the flies!” they
exclaim, before insisting you pack fly nets and
repellent. And it’s true, there are a lot of flies and they
are quite annoying. But honestly, they are manageable.
Helpfully, Longitude provides you with both nets and
repellent, should you be particularly irked by insects.
But there are some things you simply cannot
anticipate, no matter how much research or reading
you do leading up to your visit. Nothing will prepare
you for just how vast and majestic Uluru is up close.
Or the alien landscape of Kata Tjuta, which feels like
walking on another planet, as you navigate giant,
sleeping boulders the size of small elephants.
At Uluru, you’ll be both dazzled and dazed by the
ever changing colour of the rock, which morphs from
blue and grey to pink, red and orange depending on
Kata Tjuta ... feels like the time of day and where you happen to be standing.
walking on another planet, Likewise, photographs just can’t do justice to the
as you navigate giant, extraordinary texture of the rock, which is cracked and
flaking like the bumper of a rusting Holden Kingswood.
sleeping boulders the size It makes sense once you realise the rock is, in fact,
of small elephants. rusting – and has been for many millions of years. Up
close, you can see the original colour of the rock, which
is a steely blue-grey. Exposure to the elements causes it
to rust and turn that magnificent shade of orange.
At Kata Tjuta, which means “many heads” in the
local Aboriginal language of Pitjantjatjara, the rock is
different. Formed from clusters of small pebbles and
boulders cemented together in sand and mud, it has
the texture of multigrain bread, compared to Uluru’s
smooth wholemeal. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 121
 It’s here at Kata Tjuta that we get our first up close
encounter with the Mars-like landscape, as we embark
on an early morning walk through Walpa Gorge.
Walpa means wind in Pitjantjatjara, which is something
else you should prepare for. No matter how still the air
at base camp, wind whips around the base of Kata
Tjuta, particularly through Walpa Gorge and the Valley
of the Winds.
Our guide, Sam, has been hosting tours in the area
for a year-and-a-half. At best guess, he reckons there
have been less than 20 days with little or no wind here.
Some days, he says, it’s so strong, it can be a struggle
to stand up. In cooler months, it can be arctic.
As we head through the giant canyon, struck silent
by the size and scale of the surrounding cliffs, we’re
surprised to discover pockets of emerald green bursting
from the earth, in stark and surreal contrast to the
burnt orange ground.
This is thanks to recent rainfall, explains Sam,
which is absorbed by the rock and slowly seeps back
out, creating valleys of verdant plant life. A nearby
water hole is full of wriggling tadpoles, which will soon
see the gorge echo with a choir of frog song. Sam looks We head through the giant
for animal tracks as feral camels regularly visit the gorge
to quench their thirst. The luckiest of visitors have canyon, struck silent by the
been known to stumble across a camel or two on their scale of the surrounding cliffs
morning walk but sadly, not today.
On the way back to camp (an affectionate
euphemism for what is, in fact, a very well-appointed
and luxurious resort) we stop at a tali [sand dune] to
admire the many heads of Kata Tjuta from a distance.
Once again, it’s a view you can’t prepare for.
Upon returning to Longitude, we spend the rest
of the morning lounging poolside in an increasingly
futile attempt to stay cool as the temperature climbs.
By midday, it’s time to retreat inside for lunch, where
an ever-changing daily menu is offered, prepared by
chef Tom Saliba, along with some of Australia’s best
wines. Longitude operates on an all-inclusive basis and
guests are free to help themselves to refreshments from
several well-stocked bars whenever they like. Henschke,
Tyrells and Four Pillars Gin are just a few of the labels
on offer, along with Louis Roederer Champagne.
After lunch, it’s time for a kip in our tent, which
is again a euphemism for a spacious and substantial
dwelling, craftily shaded by sun sails on the outside
and draped internally with billowing fabric to create
the illusion of being in a tent. In truth, it is a private
villa offering cinematic views of Uluru from the
comfort of your bed – and air-conditioning. ➤

122 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
PHOTOGRAPHY KONRAD KASISKE (FIELD OF LIGHT, PAINTING, PLUNGE POOL).

Clockwise from top left: Bruce Munro’s Field of Light;

the view from Longitude’s Dune Pavilion; the plunge
pool at Longitude; Umatji Tjitayi from Ernabella Arts
dots her canvas; the evening view from Longitude’s
luxury tents.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 123
 The true star of the show is Uluru and it is only
by visiting the monolith that you can really
understand its significance and story.

Sitting on stilts, each elevated villa has its own

private terrace, complete with a large daybed. Only
the brave (or stupid) would actually venture out during
the day – but come nightfall, it offers the perfect spot
to soak up the night sky. Guests are given the option
to spend the night under the stars, with an authentic
outback swag provided, along with a less authentic
gas fireplace and selection of nightcaps.
At this point, you will most likely find yourself
conflicted as the siren call of sleep beckons but the
magic of the night sky keeps you bright-eyed. Again,
prepare to be tired. Accept it and move on.
Of course, the true star of the show is Uluru and
it is only by visiting the monolith that you can really
understand its significance and story. In keeping with
the beliefs of the traditional custodians of the land, the
Anangu, they are not my stories to share. But I would
encourage anyone living in Australia to make the
journey and learn more about these important
chapters of First Nations’ history.

PHOTOGRAPHY KONRAD KASISKE.

Which brings us to the uncomfortable point in any
trip to this area: the controversy and disharmony that
comes from sightseeing in a sacred and culturally
sensitive area. While one of the most painful chapters
in Uluru’s history ended last year, when climbing the
rock was officially banned in October 2019, the scar
remains. Both literally – a white line marks the rock
where thousands of feet have carved a scar – and
figuratively. Not everyone is happy about the hordes
of visitors that descend on this treasured place.
So it is important to be sensitive and culturally
aware. Come prepared to listen and learn. Every guide
working in the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park is
required to complete a six-month course through
Charles Darwin University before they can take tours
into the park. The course is approved by the park’s
management board, which comprises eight Aboriginal
members, nominated by Anangu, alongside a further
four members.
Another source of discomfort, for some, is British
artist Bruce Munro’s installation, Field of Light. Beloved
by Instagrammers, the multi-coloured artwork, which
 features more than 50,000 solar-powered lights,
originally opened in 2017 as a temporary exhibit.
Its popularity has seen it become a permanent fixture.
But the contrast between the imported, artificial
artwork and the natural beauty and cultural significance
of the surrounding area, is hard to reconcile. More
problematic is the fact Voyages Indigenous Tourism
Australia, which operates the exhibition, charges visitors
$44 per person to enter and does not offer concessions
to local Anangu (a spokesperson says requests are
managed case-by-case and they are happy to accommodate
when there is availability). For me, learning this took
away any pleasure initially derived from the superficial
experience. Elsewhere, the tourism industry is doing
good things to support and build relationships with
Anangu. During our stay at Longitude, two artists arrive
from Ernabella Arts, Australia’s oldest Indigenous art
Clockwise from centre. Artworks from the centre are displayed throughout
far left: the the resort and available for guests to purchase.
glowing red The artists – sisters Janet and Umatji Tjitayi – are set
rock of Uluru;
the Mars-like
up in Dune House, where they will spend the next four
landscape of Kata days painting, as part of a residency programme with the
Tjuta; the pool resort. Guests watch the artworks emerge as the sisters
at Longitude. quietly and carefully dot their canvases.
“Bringing artists here lets them concentrate on their
artwork and be creative. They’re getting some respite
from community life, which can be really difficult,” says
Ernabella Arts manager Mel George, before explaining
that all money raised through the sale of artworks, goes
back into the community. “At our art centre, we generate
and put about $700,000 a year back into Anangu hands.
Getting
there It’s one of the only income sources in the community.”
The relationship with Longitude is both significant
Jetstar and Qantas and authentic, says George.
fly direct to Ayers Rock
airport from all main “Anangu have a word – ngapartji-ngapartji – and
centres. Transfers it means reciprocal relationship. You give, I give, and
between the airport we take away equally. They support us in multiple ways.
and Longitude 131°
They donate to a salary for a staff member, which we
are included in rates.
wouldn’t be able to afford without their help. That one
Rates for Longitude 131° staff member allows all of these Anangu to come in
start from $1700 per and create work and earn an income. They allow us to
person per night, for
a minimum two-night
do 21 exhibitions a year. It’s really genuine and I can’t
stay. Packages include stress that enough. A lot of people do things because
dining and beverages, they have to. But we are constantly in communication
as well as signature and supporting one another.”
tours and experiences.
longitude131.com.au It’s that kind of respect and care that really sets
Longitude apart. And in a place as special and sacred as
Uluru-Kata Tjuta, it is the measure that matters most. ●

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 125
 CHECKING IN

W Brisbane
We take the guesswork out of local travel with our tips on where to
stay, eat, drink and play. This month, GT hits Queensland’s capital.

Brisbane,
Qld

Quick
look

Where
81 North Quay,
Brisbane
Rather than shy away from the BrisVegas nickname cast on the capital of the Sunshine State,
Facilities
the W Brisbane has unabashedly embraced it. The first of the W Hotel series to open in Australia
since W Sydney closed its doors more than a decade ago, the Queensland incarnation, which Prices from $299
nuzzles the Brisbane River in the CBD, has upheld the group’s reputation for quirk and colour. per night for a
An eclectic concoction of sweeping water views, Australiana paraphernalia and a psychedelic standard room
colour palette welcomes guests to each of the 312 rooms (including 32 luxury suites) – think Pool Yes
oversized pineapples, neon lighting, and fixtures plucked from traditional Queenslander homes. Hotel bar Yes
Restaurant Yes
S T A Y

An army of facilities will further tempt you to linger a while, from the spa and gym to an outdoor
pool, nestled next to the all-important WET Deck bar. It’s certainly tongue-in-cheek, but this Room service Yes
vivacious addition is as vibrant and sunny as its new hometown, and (refreshingly) doesn’t Concierge 24-hour
take itself too seriously. wbrisbane.com.au
 Checking in

With Brisbane’s burgeoning cultural precinct just

a short stroll away, take advantage of the W’s handy
location and head for the Victoria Bridge, towards the

C U L T U R E
cluster of buildings that houses the creative pursuits
of the River City. On the south side of the river,
among a gaggle of theatres and museums, you’ll find
the creative power couple, QAGOMA. Consisting of
the Queensland Art Gallery and the celebrated
Gallery of Modern Art, the duo offers a number of
compelling exhibitions. qagoma.qld.gov.au

Clockwise from above:

drinks at La Lune; the bar
at WET Deck; Gallery of
Modern Art; Brisbane River
and city; Maeve Wine’s
steak tartare. Opposite: W
Brisbane’s Extreme Wow
WORDS SARAH BRISTOW. PHOTOGRAPHY RALF TOOTEN (BRISBANE, WET DECK) & TOURISM & EVENTS QUEENSLAND (GALLERY OF MODERN ART).

Suite overlooks the city.

E X P E R I E N C E
Get better acquainted with Brisbane’s most famous resident
– the river – with a ride aboard one of the 22-strong fleet of
high-speed CityCats transporting residents from one bank
to the next. Commence your cruise from the city terminal
(one sits just outside the W Brisbane), winding your way
around the waterway’s famous curves until you greet the
iconic New Farm Park. Make like the locals and spend
a leisurely day picnicking on the grass in the rose garden,
while snacking on treats gathered at the Saturday morning
markets, held at the nearby Brisbane Powerhouse.

Breakfast Lunch Dinner

While café-heavy West End sits just
across the river, you don’t need to
leave the grounds of the W Brisbane
for your morning meal. The hotel is
home to the first Queensland outpost
from the Three Blue Ducks family,
which caters to the morning crowd on
weekends. A local twist on laidback
breakfast fare forms the bulk of the
menu, including a sumptuous
E A T
A treasure trove of fresh eats await
at Fish Lane, a revamped laneway
opposite the Queensland Museum.
Relaxed eateries sit alongside bars
and a pub, with more additions set
to open soon. Among them, Town
Square is expected to arrive –
a Richards & Spence-designed
public space bursting with new
venues, including the Chinese-
Make wine and snacks the order of
the night in South Brisbane, where
you’ll find a number of intimate wine
bars in and around Fish Lane.
Long-time resident La Lune Wine
Co is always worth a visit, as is the
more recent arrival, Maeve Wine,
which sits in a 90-year-old heritage
building and serves up European-
inspired small plates alongside

spanner crab scramble topped centric Southside and the casual a dynamic selection of wines from
with papaya and bean shoot salad. Kiki – from the group behind Rick small producers around the world.
threeblueducks.com/brisbane Shores on the Gold Coast. lalunewineco.com.au, maeve.wine

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 127
 RUN TO
THE HILLS
PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA CLARK (MT LOFTY RANGES) & BEN GOODE (KANGAROO),

With its magical setting, paddock-to-plate dining, and some of the

best wineries in the country, the Adelaide Hills ticks all the boxes
for a memorable escape, writes KARLIE VERKERK.

A
sk any Adelaide Hills local
what makes the region special
and most will say its close
proximity to the city. “When
you’re in the Hills it feels like
you’re hundreds of kilometres
away from anything, but it’s only 20 minutes’
drive up the freeway,” says Aaron Fenwick,
co-owner of The Summertown Aristologist.
The Adelaide Hills sits to the east of the
city and is one of 18 wine regions in South
Australia. “Its physical location and the fact
that it gets a lot of rain are the main reasons
it has an edge,” adds Fenwick. “It’s lush and
green; it’s an absolutely stunning place. There
are vineyards, wineries and market gardens
right on your doorstep.”
Winding roads canopied
with oak trees and towering
“The
gums connect one quaint magic
town to the next, each with … the wood fires in
its own personality and charm.
winter, the cabins,
“The Hills are full of magic
and romance. I didn’t realise the
that until we bought our
property in Mylor about five years ago,” says
chef-restaurateur André Ursini. “The wood
fires in winter, the cabins, the greenery.”
No matter the time of year, the region
is a feast for the eyes – and stomach. “Each
area of the Hills is really different,” says chef
130 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
PHOTOGRAPHY JOSIE WITHERS (TOM CAMPBELL) & MICHAEL WATERHOUSE (PICCADILLY VALLEY).
Emma McCaskill. “And each season is so distinct
– especially autumn when the trees are coloured
intense reds and oranges.”
For a weekend or week-long escape in South
Australia’s most scenic region, the options are
endless. “When you’re driving through the Hills
there are plenty of ‘pinch yourself’ moments,”
says Fenwick. “Not just when it’s clear and sunny,
but also when it’s stormy and misty and the sky
is thick with clouds.”
Start by weaving your way from Stirling to
Hahndorf (Australia’s oldest surviving German
settlement) while passing through the picturesque
towns of Aldgate and Bridgewater. Or head to
Basket Range via Summertown and Uraidla.
Along the way, stop by artisanal shops and
paddock-to-plate restaurants,
or take your pick from a long
Hills are full of list of award-winning wineries.
and romance “The Hills is an epicentre for
winemakers as there isn’t as much
tradition around the winemaking
as in the Barossa Valley or McLaren
greenery.” Vale,” says Fenwick. “There’s a
real sense of freedom and liberty.”
Whether it’s sipping low-intervention drops
at myriad cellar doors, or relishing an exclusive
dining experience in a hidden valley, there are
plenty of reasons to put the Adelaide Hills at the
top of your must-visit list this year. Here’s our
guide on where to eat, drink, stay and play. ➤
Vines in the
Piccadilly Valley.
Right: Tom
Campbell, head
chef at The
Summertown
Aristologist,
picks vegetables
at co-owner
Anton van
Klopper’s farm.
PREVIOUS
PAGES Mt Lofty
Ranges Vineyard;
a kangaroo leaps
through vines.
EAT
The Summertown Aristologist
Fun, nourishing food accompanied by some of Australia’s best
natural wine is what The Summertown Aristologist is all about.
Set in a small community-minded town, its co-owners – Aaron
Fenwick, Anton van Klopper (Lucy Margaux) and Jasper Button
(Commune of Buttons) – have transformed what started out as
a quaint wine bar into a true dining destination. Simple share-style
plates hero vegetables grown in Basket Range, just five kilometres
away, as well as small quantities of sustainable meat and seafood.
1097 Greenhill Rd, Summertown, thesummertownaristologist.com

Villetta Porcini
A meal at Villetta Porcini could be the most exclusive dining
experience in Australia right now. The rustic weather-permitting
“culinary cave” – a converted stone hut that was once storage for
apples – is nestled deep in the valley of chef-restaurateur André
Ursini’s Mylor property. Each dish changes daily depending on
Ursini’s mood, and highlights local produce, most of which is grown
on the surrounding land. To secure a seat, guests must enquire via
email and will only receive confirmation seven days prior. @vporcini

Lost in a Forest
A 130-year-old church is the last place you would expect to find
woodfired pizza, which makes Lost in a Forest even more special.
Located in the tiny town of Uraidla, the wood oven wine lounge
pumps out delicious pizza with good vibes to match – plus legions
of local and international wines. Toppings stray from traditional;
take, for example, the bánh mì pizza, which combines 20-hour
cider-braised pork with pickled vegetables, pork crackle and
sriracha mayo. 1203 Greenhill Rd, Uraidla, lostinaforest.com.au

The Lane Vineyard

Celebrating everything the Adelaide Hills and South Australia has
to offer, The Lane Vineyard is a picture-perfect place to stop for
lunch. Soak up 180-degree views of the manicured vineyard and
the undulating hills beyond while you sip cool-climate wines and
eat refined Australian fare. For something a little more relaxed,
pre-order a gourmet picnic basket filled with treats made locally
and in-house to be enjoyed out in the sunshine between the vines.
5 Ravenswood Ln, Hahndorf, thelane.com.au ➤
 Clockwise from
left: a selection
of snacks at The
Summertown
Aristologist;
chef André Ursini
preps mushrooms
at Villetta Porcini;
friendly locals at
CRFT Wines.
Opposite, from
top left: CRFT
PHOTOGRAPHY JOSIE WITHERS (CRFT WINES & THE SUMMERTOWN ARISTOLOGIST),

Wines’ shearing-
shed-turned-cellar
door; dessert is
JESSICA CLARK (THE LANE VINEYARD) & DIMITRA KORIOZOS (ANDRÉ URSINI).

served at The
Lane Vineyard.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 133
 LL
E HI S WIN
ID
LA

ER
ADE

IES

With more than 60 wineries to

choose from, there’s a cellar
door around almost every
corner. Renowned for its
cool-climate wines, including
sauvignon blanc, chardonnay
and pinot noir, the region is also
pushing boundaries with newer
styles, as roads twist and turn,
and steep hills and deep valleys
create different microclimates.
For stylish cellar doors with
a view, you can’t go past the
big names: Shaw + Smith,
Mt Lofty Ranges, Nepenthe, Bird
in Hand, Lobethal Road and The
Lane. If low-intervention drops
are more your taste, be sure to
stop by Ngeringa, CRFT Wines,
Ochota Barrels, Unico Zelo and
La Prova. Plus the cellar door
next to The Summertown
Aristologist for Lucy Margaux,
Commune of Buttons and
Château Comme Ci Comme Ça.

SAVE THE DATE

From delicious wine and local
produce to music, art and theatre,
discover the region’s offerings at
Crush Festival. January 22-24,
crushfestival.com.au

Clockwise from top left: lavender in bloom at Jurlique Farm;

the Villetta Porcini hut in Mylor; a tranquil bedroom at Sequoia
Lodge; Mount Lofty Botanic Garden. Opposite: a winemaker
harvests grapes at La Prova winery in Hahndorf.

134 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 DO
Take a stroll through Hahndorf
A trip to the Adelaide Hills would be incomplete without
a stroll through the village of Hahndorf – Australia’s oldest
surviving German settlement. Its leafy streets are lined with
heritage buildings and traditional pubs, as well as a string
of galleries, cafés and artisanal producers. Be sure to take
an extra bag and fill it with treats from Udder Delights,
Buzz Honey, Chocolate @ No. 5, and Harris Smokehouse.
Pick strawberries at Beerenberg Farm
There’s nothing quite like devouring a plump strawberry
plucked straight from the patch. From November through
to April, you can pick strawberries at Beerenberg Farm for
$5 per person; the cost covers anything you eat on the
spot, then it’s $10.95 per kilo for the berries you’d like to
take home. Take a detour via the farm’s store and stock
up on Beerenberg’s famous jams, chutneys and sauces.
2106 Mount Barker Rd, Hahndorf, beerenberg.com.au
Visit Jurlique Farm
Immerse yourself in nature and book a behind-the-scenes
guided tour of Jurlique’s magnificent biodynamic and
organic farm. There, you’ll learn about the history of the
much-loved Australian skincare brand, and discover the
various herbs, flowers and plants that go into its products.
For an extra-special experience, book the VIP tour, which
ends with an afternoon of pampering at the spa. 31 Liebelt
Rd, Biggs Flat, jurlique.com/au/biodynamic-farm-tour
AARON CITTI (SEQUOIA LODGE), SAM WILLIAMS (BOTANIC GARDEN) & LEWIS POTTER (WINEMAKER).
PHOTOGRAPHY JEM CRESSWELL (LAVENDER), DIMITRA KORIOZOS (VILLETTA PORCINI),
STAY
Mount Lofty House and Sequoia Lodge
A stay at this beautiful 19th-century heritage property
is a truly tranquil experience. Formerly the summer
residence of pastoralist and politician Arthur Hardy,
Mount Lofty House boasts uninterrupted views across
Piccadilly Valley and offers a range of rooms, suites
and cottages each with original details. In addition to
its main manor, the hotel is due to open Sequoia Lodge
in February, which will include 14 luxurious open-plan
suites all complete with a stone fireplace, rain shower
and freestanding bath. Guests will also have access
to a private lounge with a sundeck and heated infinity
pool. Luxury escapes don’t get much better than this.
1 Mawson Dr, Crafers, mtloftyhouse.com.au,
sequoialodge.com.au
Jude Cabn
Disconnect from the outside world and reconnect with
nature at Jude Cabn, a tiny 2.5m x 6m retreat cocooned
by dense bushland. The off-the-grid cabin has everything
you need for a comfortable yet adventurous escape in
the great outdoors, including a king loft bed and daybed,
a kitchenette and breakfast bar. cabn.life ●
 Tr u e North

Turquoise water, towering palms and impossibly white sand adorn postcards
inviting us to our northernmost state. As we dream of our next escape, allow
lush tropical landscapes to be a reminder of the beauty in our backyard.
WORDS GRACE MACKENZIE. PHOTOGRAPHY PAUL KINGSLEY/ALAMY.

T H E W H I T S U N DAY S
The secluded beaches and pristine coastlines of the Whitsundays archipelago
offers something for everyone. Rippled turquoise water marbles with bleached
sand, creating an endless horizon in this dreamy slice of paradise. ➤
 MAREEBA
Three million juicy golden pineapples are harvested each year in Mareeba. In the northern end of the
Atherton Tablelands, the fruit is perfected by the sandy soil and nine-month dry spell in the region.

138 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
 M OW B R AY R I V E R
Nestled in a valley and surrounded by picturesque national park,
fishermen hunt for barramundi and trevally as they cruise down the
expansive waters of the Mowbray River, just south of Port Douglas. ➤
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (LANGFORD ISLAND) & KARA ROSENLUND (NU NU).

THE TROPICAL NORTH

Palm Cove’s beachfront restaurant Nu Nu frames views of the Coral Sea with staggering palms. Further south is Langford
Island. Popular with divers and sunbakers alike, it’s a tiny yet spectacular gem that’s quieter than most in the Whitsundays. ●

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 141
1 2 3

4 5 6

7 8 9
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STYLE
HOME . FASHION . BEAUTY

New
to GT

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER (BEAUTY PRODUCTS).

Beat the heat

Quench your summer thirst with moisturising sun protection,
bright prints and stylish yet shady outdoor spaces.
 Home

3 HIT REFRESH

Chan
nnel your inner minimalist and revive
your outdoor living spaces with these
y
modern monochromatic pieces.

I R ATI
SP O

N
ME I
Sydney,
NSW

HO
4

7
1 Danyon vase, $395, Coco Republic. 2 Outdoor cushion cover in Gingham
8 Black, $75, Basil Bangs. 3 Claude ou utdoor lounge chair, $2595, Coco Republic.
4 Jardin umbrella in Raw, $659, Bassil Bangs. 5 Missoni Home towels in Rex 21,
from $40, Spence & Lyda. 6 Anchora age concrete dining table, from $2595, Coco
Republic. 7 Palermo outdoor sunlounge, $2995, Coco Republic. 8 Choob garden
pot, $226, The Balcony Garden. 9 Circula Tall side table in Oblivion, $999, Blu Dot.
10 Dog Days outdoor
td 3-seat
3 t sofa
f iin Sunbrella Linen, $4699, Blu Dot.
MERCHANDISING CLAUDIA STEPHENSON.

10

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 147
 2

6
14

7
11

13
12

10
0

MERCHANDISING CLAUDIA STEPHENSON.

8
9

1 Brûle Parfum oil burner in Amber, $59, Maison Balzac. 2 Smooth shelf in Sand, $370, Nicole Lawrence. 3 Atwood coasters in Orange, $125, Coco
Republic. 4 Supernova mirror in Bronze, $1300, Fenton & Fenton. 5 Smeg variable temperature kettle in Black, $259, Harvey Norman. 6 Woodrow
Spikey Stump table, $390, Fenton & Fenton. 7 K400 blender in Almond Cream, $499, Kitchen Aid. 8 Cinque Terre tiles, $220/m2, Perini. 9 Don Giovanni
lamp by India Mahdavi in Powder Pink-Yellow, POA, Studio Alm. 10 Checkers cushion in Golden, $165, Bonnie and Neil. 11 Enamel teapot in Rajastan, $59,
Kip & Co. 12 Stripes cushion in Ochre, $260, Lucy Montgomery. 13 Afro chair by India Mahdavi in Yellow-Beige, POA, Studio Alm. 14 Mitsubishi 630L Glass
French Door fridge in Brilliant Black, $4259, Harvey Norman.
 Home

BOLD MOVES

Spritz colour into your surrounds

with bright glassware and homewares,
or commit to the trend and re-tile
your space in a summery hue.

ME IN
HO
SP
I R AT I O

Dyke
& Dean
N
IMAGE VIA DYKE & DEAN (MAIN).

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 149
 1
Stay
15

Fairshore
14 Beachfront
Apartments,
Noosa, Qld

13

Resort report
Hit the boardwalk or bar in crisp cotton,
with bursts of sunny hues and tan accessories.

7
11

12

1 Aurora medallion in Rose Gold, $515,

Baby Anything. 2 Nova one-piece in
Terracotta, $275, Bondi Born. 3 Aurelie
Bidermann Katt earrings, $297,
Farfetch. 4 The Lovestruck buttoned
skirt, $595, Zimmermann. 5 Trim mini
boater, $495, Zimmermann. 6 Matin
drop shoulder short sleeve shirt in 8
Ivory, $320, The Undone. 7 St Agni
Iman linen tank, $185, The Undone.
8 Botanica man-style shorts, $595,
Zimmermann. 9 See by Chloé Glyn
leather platform espadrille sandals,
$345, My Theresa. 10 Destiny bag
in Tortoise, $399, Respiro Studio.
11 Concept dress, $625, Aje. 9
12 Ancient Greek Sandals Meloivia
leather sandals, $265, My Theresa.
13 Tie front draped skirt in Tangerine,
$675, Bondi Born. 14 Missoni Home
Hugo chevron print beach towel,
$261, Farfetch. 15 Classic bib
shirtdress, $450, Selfe Studios.

10
 Style

Peep show
Keep your cool in the chicest shades this summer.
Oversized or cat’s-eye, there’s a frame for every face.
PHOTOGRAPHY AMY HIGG (NOOSA) & WILL HORNER (SUNGLASSES).

Clockwise from top left: Phoenix

sunglasses in Taupe Orange Caution,
$333, Karen Walker. Riley sunglasses
in Signature Tort, $229, Oroton. Teller
sunglasses in Light Brown, $330,
MERCHANDISING KELSIE WALKER.

Zimmermann. Fortune sunglasses

in Vanilla, $330, Zimmermann.
Bells sunglasses in Brass, $330,
Zimmermann. Phoenix sunglasses
in Crazy Tort, $333, Karen Walker.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 151
Beauty

1 High UV protection, perfect for sensitive skin. La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL SPF 50+ Ultra Light Fluid, $29.95, Amazon. 2 Australian-made, organic
sunscreen. Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30, $42, Mother SPF. 3 Ultra-hydrating gel-cream containing hyaluronic acid. Tasmanian Spring Water Hydration
Boost Cream, $79.99, Sand & Sky. 4 Mineral sunscreen with high protection. To Save Face And Body SPF 30+ Physical Zinc Sunscreen, $42, Mecca.
5 Easy to apply spray with a non-greasy texture. 50+ Sunscreen Spray, $34.95, Avène. 6 Deeply hydrating balm to restore and repair skin. Cosmetics
27 Baume 27 Bio-Energising Cell Repair Balm, $222, Mecca. 7 Enriched with shea butter, olive oil and vitamin E. Compagnie de Provence Escale
Aromatique Hand Cream, $59.95, Libertine Parfumerie.
 10 Sun-kissed skin
Sun protection and after-sun care
9 to keep your skin safe and looking
radiant this summer.

12
8

15

13

GT team
favourite
STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER.

14

11

8 Nourishing, delicately scented body lotion. Sachajuan Body Lotion in Spicy Citrus, $53.40, Amazon. 9 Vanilla scented, reef- and ocean-safe sunscreen.
Beachfox SPF 50+ Daily Sunscreen, $30, Sephora. 10 High-performance, coral reef-friendly SPF 50+ sunscreen. Medik8 Physical Sunscreen, $69,
Adore Beauty. 11 Luminsing and lightweight sunscreen that’s a perfect base for makeup. Ultra Violette Queen Screen SPF 50+ Skinscreen, $47, Sephora.
12 Styling cream with UV filter that protects hair from the sun. Sachajuan Hair In The Sun, $40, Amazon. 13 Hydrating, hyaluronic acid-based face mist.
Dr. Barbara Sturm Hydrating Face Mist, $151, Mecca. 14 Lightweight vegan formulation that blends effortlessly. Natural Hydrating Sunscreen, $59,
Grown Alchemist. 15 High protection mineral sunscreen with a sheer tint. Invisible Zinc Sheer Defence SPF 50+, $33.99, Priceline.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 153
Objects of desire

p a s pl ates
Ta
Snack yourself silly
this summer and serve
bite-size morsels on
petite plates to match.

Clockwise from top left:

Globe dish in Haze, $34.95,
Batch Ceramics. Jicon
Chrysanthemum plate in
Grey, $50, Provider Store.
Flamant Di Mare Shell
plate in Blue, $49, Peter’s
of Kensington. Malmo plate,
$29.95, Papaya. Hasami
porcelain plate, $18,
Original Editions. Richard
Ginori Shell plate, $88,
Peter’s of Kensington.

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING & MERCHANDISING LAURA JACOBS.

154 G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
FURNITURE & HOMEWARES | INTERIOR DESIGN | PROPERTY STYLING | DESIGN SCHOOL
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