United States Patent 11» Rerek et al. (73] 4 (22) (51) [52] [58] [56] FIER COMPOSITION FOR SKIN ‘ORMULATIONS Inventors: Mark Rerek, Scotch Plains, NJ Shohola, Pa’; Gerhard Dahms, Velbert, Germany Assigaee: ISP Investments Inc., Wilmington, Del Appl. No. 884,016 Filed: May 8, 1997 Int. C1! AGIK 7/00; AGIK 9/13, US. Cl. 424/401; 514937; 514/944; 514938, 424/401, 450; 514437, 938, 944 Field of Search References Cited U.S. PATENT DOCUMENTS 41996 Tones et al 5,510,120, 424/499 USO005849315A_ uy) Patent Number: 5,849,315 [45] Date of Patent: Dec. 15, 1998 5.560918 191096 Wiel et a 44 Primary Examiner—Sally Gardner-Lane Attorney, Agent, or Finn—Walter Katz; William J. Davis; Marilyn J. Maue (57) ABSTRACT ‘An emulsifier composition for skin care formulations, which is present in the form of a bilayer lamellar gel network, which is stable up to a temperature of about 50° C comprising by weight, about 340% of «high HLB swellant which is lecithin, and a blend of low HLB emulsifier gellants, 1 100%, the blend of gellants having a resultant HLB of about 1.5 to about 5. Ina skin eare formulation, the lamellar gel network forms a discrete third phase between the oil and water phases 10 Claims, No Drawings5,849,315 1 EMULSIFIER COMPOSITION FOR SKIN ‘CARE FORMULATIONS. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention This invention relates to emulsifier compositions for skin ceare formulations, and, more particularly, © an emulsifier ‘composition which will form a lamellar liquid crystal gel network in an oikin-water system, thereby to provide the usera skin fel of lubricity and emollience, and skin barrier strengthening to provide moisturization without added mois- turizer, 2. Description ofthe Prior Art Human body skin forms a barter which protects the body against uncontrolled loss of water. The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, provides this barrie. ‘Traditionally, the stratum eommeum has been described 38 a bricks-and-mortar structure in which the coracocyte ‘brieks” are surrounded by lipid “morte. The lipid cegion is known to provide the semi-permeability barrier needed for healthy skin, and the physical organization ofthe lipids is known to be critical for good barrier function. ‘Skin lipids have been the subject of much research in recent years, and the relatively simple “mortar” model has recently evolved into a more complex “Domain Mosaic Model” (DMM). Ia this model, skin lipids are described as having domains of solid or gl-stat lipids bordered by lipids in a more fluid liquid crystalline state called a “grain boundary” ADMM arrangement provides an effective barsier that prevenis the indiscriminate loss of water, yet allows con- trolled evaporation to regulate body temperature. The more fluid character of the grain boundaries represents areas ‘where materials may diluse in or out of the system. However, according to the DMM, lipids in the uid grain boundaries can be lost through a process termed cco-miceltizaton detergency. Loss of any lipids from the grain boundaries disrupts the organization of statum cor neu lipids and leads to loss of barrier function. Healthy ‘skin requires optimal barrier funetion and maintenance of skin moisture for prevention of irritation and dryness. Lipid depletion eventually results in a weskened, more permeable barrier. A permeable barrier readily’ loses moisture, resulting in dul, dry skin. A permeable barter is also more readily peneteated by foreign materials which can ‘cause sensitive skin reactions. Skin care products are formulated with emulsifiers to stabilize the oil and water phases. However, emulsifiers ean interact with the skin in an anlagonistic manner for the following reason, The natural tendency of most emulsifiers is to form detergent-ike micelles of lipid and emulsifier. Since the lipids of the skin in the grain boundaries are oriented in a more fui lamellar fashion, they are vulnerable to the solubilizing effects of conventional detergentike micellar emulsifiers. This solublization can result in a net Joss of lipid, thus weakening the skin's protective barrier. In this invention, the problem of lipid loss with eonven- tional emulsifiers is overeome by stabilizing the emulsion through a lamellar gel phase which approximates the skin's natural structure. Accordingly, the invention skin products will enhance skin lipids, rater than depleting them. When present in oil-in-water or water-in-oil systems, conventional emulsifiers funetion by forming an interface ‘with their hydrophobic portions in the oil and their hydeo- philic portions in the water. Regardless of whether the 20 os ss 4s ss 6s 2 emulsion is oil- or water-continuous, the system can be fundamentally described as having two phases and one interface. In contrast, the invention emulsifier composition is bal- anced to prochice a complex bilayer lamellar gel system The bilayer gels herein advantageously stabilize emulsions by forming a discrete third phase between the oil and water phases. The result is a non-traditional system which can be described as having three phases and two interfaces, which is fundamentally different from the traditional two phases and one interface systems, The lamellar gel stabilization network that is formed in the skin care composition herein thus is naturally compatible with the lamellar structure of the stratum corneum lipids, ‘The unique lamellar gel stabilization network of the invention composition thus builds product structure and imparts emulsion stability in two ways. First, the distinct third (lamellar) phase of the composition stabilizes the oil phase; and, secondly, it increases the viscosity of the aque- fous phase, DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION ‘Theskin care formulations, and an cmulsfir composition therefor provides the user with askin fesl of Iubesity and emollience, and provide moistuization without added mois- turer ‘The emulsifier composition ofthe invention isa mixture of a high HLB emulsifier, particularly, lecithin, in a weight amount of about 3.7 10 21%, preferably 45 to 17%, and optimally sbout 68 t0 12%, and a blend of low HLB emulsifiers, 0 100%, The blend of low HLB emulsifiers has 2 resultant HLB of about 1.5 to 5, preferably 1.5 to 4, and, Oplimally sbout 2.5 to 35. In skin care formulations, which contain water and oil components, the emulsifier composition of the invention provides and retains the desired Bayer gel network of the bikin-water system, and its desired HLB ratios, even over a wide pH range, ¢ from 2to 12. The HLB stabilization in ‘the emulsifier composition provides skin care formulations which can accept acid or base components therein as an alpha hydroxy seid, oe a depilatory, inthe formulation. In the prefered form of the invention, the low HLB blend of emulsifiers includes emulsifiers hiving « non-ionizable sroup, eg, an alcoho, such as behenylaleohol (HLB 1.9) aswell asemulsters having an ionizable group therein, es carboxyl, such as stearic avi, palmitic aid (HLB 3.2); or maleated soybean oil (HLB 1.9); or esters such as elycers monostearate (HLB 3.4) or sorbitan monostearate (HLB= 447). The skin cae formulation is made by suitable mixing of about 1-10% by weight of the emulsifier composition, preferably 2-7. In one embodiment, the gellant comprises bout 830% behensl alcohol about 15-30% glyceryl ‘monostearate, about 15-40% of « mixture of palmitic ad Stearic scids and 0-30 of maleated soybean ol. In another embextiment, the gellant comprises 8-27% behenyl alcohol, shout 18-25% glyceryl monostearate, about 3-107 of a mixture of lauryl, myrisyl and cetyl alcohols, about 18-354 ofa mixture of palmitic and stearic acids and about 12204 of maleated soybean oi ‘The gel network formed by the emulsifier composition hetein begins a phase transition above 45° C. Therefore, ensure high temperature stability for the skin care formation, itis preferred to add x small amount of hydrocolloid stabilizer sich a8 Stabilere@® 06—Interational Specialty Prodicts which is a crosslinked polyvinyl maleic nhydridelmethyl vinyl ether polymer.5,849,315 3 ‘The invention will now be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. ‘The following emulsifier compositions of Examples 1-6 ‘were prepared by mixing the several components therein thoroughly at room temperature. Swett we % ALB Lectin 959 Behenlslshol mas 19 ivory steatte bes 34 Palmie sci isan 33 State aid 33 ‘Teal soar 29 EXAMPLE 2 esta 11 _Bebeny lest 2 49 Giyoeryt seatte a a Paimise ace lass 33 Stearic aid mas 32 Mileaed soysesn ol 1819 ‘Teal 268 EXAMPLE 3 Lesthin 2 Sabian seas os at EXAMPLE 4 esta 9.79. Been alobo! rasa Ciycery! seamte 2198 34 Senieaid 13632 Maleate soybean ol! _1688_ 1.8 ‘Teal sn21 206 EXAMPLES Hydiogented 9 ‘Bae alobal eT esithng Ciyceryt steamte Pers ‘Stearic aed ws 32 Tate alabol 1s 33 Myra loot 2 28 Caiy alstol is 3s ‘Teal 3 EXAMPLE 6 Lestia 7 Bebeay lool aw ivory seatte na Palmie se ne 33 Stearic aid a7 33 acy aloha 1 33 ‘Myris loot is 20 Catyalotol 1 3s Maleate soybean ol! 1619 ‘Teal os 3st ‘Typical skin care formulation using the emulsifier com= positions of Examples 1-6 were prepared as described below in Examples 7-10, EXAMPLE 7 ‘kia Cae Fomalation Phare A Water ons Giycerin 10 Sables QM (ISP) 02 0 as os ss 4s 6s 4 continued ‘kia Cae Formulation Phase Ceraphyl® 230 aSP) 40 CCenpasl@ 454 GSP) Py Ceraphyl® 368 0SP) 100 ‘Compoion of Example 6 (ISP) 50 Phe C Water so NAOH (10%) as se D Germaben ® HE USP) rr ‘Tout 100% Heat phase A at 70° C. until clear. Add phase Band homogenize at 70° C, With homogenization add phase C at 70° C. Allow to cool with mixing, Add phase D with mixing when temperature is 40° C. ot lower. EXAMPLE 8 ‘All Natural Skin Crean Phase A Compo of Example 4 so Suaflomer ail Sn ‘Alatad ol so Cape seed el an Iojebe ol eo boa B setae ET hive Glyceria 30 atop ® S984 3 ols) Ba Water en Phase C henonip os Peete (Dragoon) 0s Tol 100 Heat phases A and B to 80° C. Add Ato B with continuous stiering. Homogenize 1 minute, Cool 1o room temperature with continuous stirring. Add phase C at room temperature, ‘The user experienced a skin feel of lubricity and emol- lience upon application of the formulation to the skin, EXAMPLE 9 Moisturizer Crean Phase A compotion of Exanpe § 4 Cenpasl® GAD 2 Ceraphsl® 72 4 Craps 404 6 CCerphyt @ 368 & se Glycerin 3 Subleze® OM 0 eveK 3) 1 Water os5,849,315 5 continued Moistvizer Cream Plate C Pheaonip a Tol 100 Heat phases A and B 10 80° C. Add A to B with continuous stirring, Homogenize 1 miaute. Cool to room temperature ‘with continuous stirring. Add phase C at room temperature. ‘Afeeling of lubricity and emollience was felt by the user. EXAMPLE 10 ‘SKIN CARE CREAM WITH GLYCOLIC A Ingredient we Di wiser 2a Glycerin 0 Neegun Ul 100 EME 95-7108 a (Ceraphy 230 00 (Ceraphy 44 600 (Cesphy 355 0 Proupid 131 ‘sm DI wer Glycolic Acid (7055) NeOH (10% so’) 1.00 Germaten ILE 10 ‘Teal 100.00 PROCEDURE 1, Combine CMC and glycerin of phase A. Sprinkle Veegum into DI with sticring at RT: Begin heating to 70°-75° C. with stitring. Add glycerinjCMC to phase A th stirring during beating. 2. Combine phase B, heat 10 75°-80° C., stir until uniform, 3. When phase A uniform and stirring at 70°-75° C. and phase B is uniform at 75°-80° C., add phase B to phase ‘A.with homogenizer and tura olf heat. When batch thickens, switch to sweep agitation for cool-down. 4, Add phase C with sweep agitation at 40° C. 5, Addl phase D with sweep agitation at 35° C. 6, Make up for water loss, sweep to RT. 0 as os ss 4s 6 While the invention has been described with particular reference to certain embodiments thereof, it will be uader- stood that changes and modifications may be made which are within the skill of the art. Accordingly, itis intended to be bound oaly by the following claims, ia which: ‘What is claimed is: 1. An emulsifier composition for use in skin care formulations, which is present in the form of a bilayer lamellar gel network which approximates the natural stuc- ture of skin, and is stable up to a temperature of about 50° C., comprising, by weight, about 340% of a high HLB swellant which is lecithin, and a blend of HLB emulsifier gellants, 10 100%, the blend of said gellants having a resultant HLB of about 1.5 to about 5, and comprises, about 8-30% behenyl alcohol, about 15-30% glyceryl monostearate, about 15-40% of a mixture of palmitic and stearic acids and 0-30% of maleated soybean oil 2. A composition according 10 claim 1 wherein said lecithin is present in the composition in an amount of about ASAT. 3. A composition according 10 claim 1 wherein said lecithia is present in the composition in an amount of about 68-12%, 4. Acomposition according to claim 1 wherein the result- ‘ant HLB of the gellants is about 1.5 to about 4. ‘5. Acomposition according to claim 1 wherein the result- ant HLB of the gellants is about 2 to about 3. 6. A composition according to claim 1 comprising about 45-17% lecithin, and wherein the emulsifier gellant blend comprises about 8-274 behenyl aleobol, about 18-25% alyceryl monostearate, about 18-35% of a mixture of palm- itie and stearic acids, about 3-10% of a mixture of lauryl, ‘myristyl and cetyl alcobols, and about 12-20% of maleated soybean oil, in which said blend has an HLB of about 1.5~4 7. Acomposition according to claim 6 in which sud blend thas an HLB of about 2-3. 8. A skin care formulation having a skin feel of lubricity and emollience in the absence of an added moisturizer comprising, by weight, about 1-10% of the emulsifier composition of claim L'which is present in the form of a lamellar gel network, and water and suitable oil components to form an oil-in-water system wherein said lamellar net- ‘work Forms a discrete third phase between Said oil and water phases. 9. Askin care formulation according to claim 8 containing, about 2-7% of said emulsifier composition. 10. Askin care formulation according to claim 8 contain- ing about 3-5% of said emulsifier composition, about 50-80% water and about 15-45% oF said oil component.