Checking and replacing fuses

A) The fuse-box
Make sure you know where the fuse box is fitted in your car. The location is usually given in the
car handbook. Often, the box is half hidden under the dashboard or in the front knee-well.
When an electrical component stops working the fault may be in the component, in the
electrical circuit or in the fuse that protects them. Because the fuse is a likely cause, and the
easiest to check, look at it first.
Them: (OP) Se refiere “the fuse”
It: (OP) se refiere “the fuse”
The fuses are usually grouped in a box or on a panel with a cover. Ideally, the box should be
fixed in an accessible place, such as the bulkhead under the bonnet. Often, however, it is
hidden away, perhaps under the dashboard or down in the front knee-well.
The car handbook usually gives the location, but without a book finding the box can prove
difficult. Get to know where it is before anything goes wrong.
The individual fuses in the box are usually numbered, so that sorting out      which one may
have blown is simplified by referring to the numbered list in the handbook. Where they are not
numbered, take out each fuse in turn and see which one stops working.
B) Types of fuse
The type and construction of fuses varies from car to car.
A rectangular blade type. This is the most common type. It has two push-in connectors linked
by a visible fuse wire.
It: (PP) se refiere a un “fusible rectangular de tipo cuchilla”
A clear-glass type. A wire running through breaks when overloaded.
The continental type. A shaped metal strip set in one side melts under excessive load.
C) Checking fuses
Depending on the fuse design, it is sometimes possible to tell whether it has blown by holding it
up against a light; a break in the wire inside may be visible. Another clue is blackening of the
glass cover.
If there is no visible sign, check by fitting another fuse of the same rating; if that cures the
trouble, then the fuse was to blame. However, it is always advisable to check the circuit also, in
case a fault in it caused the fuse to blow. For example, failure of an electrical component or
damaged insulation on a cable can cause a short circuit, resulting in a sudden massive
increase in current.
If the cable overheated, there could be a fire. The fuse prevents that happening, because thin
wire will melt and break the circuit long before the cable itself can heat up and burn.
That: (RP3) se refiere “the fuse”
Itself: (RP5) se refiere “the cable”
Some cars have only two fuses. One rated at about 30-50 amps protects components wired
through the ignition switch — flashers, wipers, heater-motor and instruments.
D) A blown fuse
A fuse is 'blown' when the connector between its two ends melts under an overload of current.
The other, probably rated at about 20-30 amps, protects components not wired through the
ignition — horns, interior lights and the cigarette lighter.
Its: (PA) se refiere “the connector”
Where a single fuse protects a number of circuits and keeps blowing, each circuit must be
checked individually to discover which one is faulty. To find the faulty one, fit a sound fuse
while all the relevant components are switched off. Now switch them on one at a time - the
circuit with the fault will blow the fuse.
Always replace a fuse with one of the same rating. Replacing, say, a 10amp fuse with a 30amp
one could result in considerable damage. The 10 amp fuse would normally protect a circuit
carrying 7 amps: a 30 amp fuse would allow a 30 amp current to flow through, with possibly a
disastrous effect on the unit or cable it was supposed to protect.
E) Changing a fuse
Each fuse is held together between two clips in the fuse box; these are also the fuse contacts.
The clips are sprung, and should hold the fuse tightly in place. In most fuse boxes, the fuses
simply push into a pair of spring-clip contacts.
Pull out the suspect fuse and, using fine emery paper, clean off any dirt or corrosion from the
inside contact surfaces of the clips.
Make sure the new fuse has the correct amp rating for the circuit; use fine emery paper to
brighten the metal caps at each end.
Brighten the caps of a new fuse with emery paper. This will remove any tarnish that may have
formed and ensure a good contact with the spring clips.
That: (RP3) se refiere a “emery paper”
Push the fuse into the vacant clips and try the circuit to see if power is restored.
If it is not, check by fitting a fuse of the same rating from a circuit you know is working.
If this does not work, the fault is not in the fuse, but elsewhere in the circuit.
 
 
 
 
F) How fuses are marked
The amp rating is often stamped on the end cap of the fuse. Rating systems vary. The amp
ratings of all fuses are printed on them, but there are two systems of rating in use. In the latest
system, the rating marked on a fuse indicates the continuous current it can carry, while also
withstanding brief surges of up to double that strength. It is usually called the CR (continuous
resistance) rating.
It (PP) se refiere a “continuous current”
A 10 amp fuse of this sort will carry a continuous 10 amps, and take brief surges up to 20 amps
without blowing.
An earlier system marks the fuse with the maximum current it can carry before blowing - it will
carry only half that figure continuously.
It: (PP) se refiere a “maximum current”
It: (PP) se refiere a “maximum current”
A 10 amp fuse of this sort will take a continuous load of 5 amps, and only short surges up to 10
amps, beyond which it blows.
Some fuse manufacturers are now marking fuses both ways. For instance, 20 amps (10 amps
CR).
G) Types of line fuse
A line fuse with the fuse case hinged along its length. Sometimes it is necessary to individually
protect a circuit not covered by the main bank of fuses. For this, a manufacturer may use line
fuses. A typical example is in BL cars where they are fitted to protect sidelight and tail-light
circuits and the rear-window heater.
Mostly, however, they are used when an accessory such as a radio or a tape deck is being
fitted - the fuse being linked into the power-supply lead near the set.
Bayonet lock
A line fuse in a screw-together plastic holder, with a bayonet-jointed fixed contact at one end
and a spring-loaded contact at the other .
Hinged case
When the case sides snap together, they hold the fuse secure between the contacts. A line
fuse is simply a two-part plastic holder with a terminal at each end. Each terminal is connected
to an end of the cable, where it is cut to accommodate the fuse. One terminal is usually lightly
spring-loaded to hold the fuse in contact.The fuse fits between the two terminals and is held in
place against the contracts by twist-locking or screwing together the two halves of the case.
The amp rating of a fuse protecting a radio or tape deck is specified by the markers of the
equipment.
They:(PP) se refiere “Hinged case”
Thermostatic interruptor
A thermostatic interruptor acts like a fuse, but allows reduced power to essential circuits.The
sudden loss of headlights because a fuse has blown can be dangerous, so such circuits may
be protected by a thermostatic interruptor.
This device is not quite a fuse, but works rather like one. It operates on the principle that a
metal strip, when heated, bends away from a contact that it would normally be touching, and
so breaks the circuit. As the strip cools it returns to shape and touches the contact again,
restoring the circuit. If the headlight-circuit fuse blows, the thermostatic interruptor allows the
lights to work on reduced power so that a journey can perhaps be completed. The lights and
their circuit can be checked thoroughly later.
Thermostatic interruptions may also be fitted into circuits prone to occasional overloads. A
good example is a electric window-winder circuit; a jamming window could overload the winder
motor, but a thermostatic interruptor stops the motor burning out and also eliminates the need
for a conventional fuse.
A thermostatic interruptor not only protects the circuit, but also, like a fuse, serves as a warning
that there is a fault in the circuit. Whenever an interruptor comes into operation, therefore, the
related circuit should be checked thoroughly at the first opportunity.
H) Replacing fusible links
 
A fusible link fitted in the battery lead to the started solenoid protects all the car circuits in an
emergency. In certain modern cars, a special type of high-resistance fuse is fitted into the
main battery feed - usually where it passes out of the starter solenoid.
Such a fuse is called a fusible link, and comprises lengths of copper wire of varying
thicknesses between two two-pin plugs. The wires will melt in succession under a massive
overload of current.
A fusible link with its wires melted by a current overload. After the fault has been remedied, a
replacement link is plugged in.
A fusible link is fitted in addition to the normal bank of fuses, and is designed to protect all the
electrical circuits in the car except the starter - which needs maximum power. The protection it
provides is invaluable if the car is in a crash and the wiring is crushed together or the insulation
is chopped through.
The magnitude of the short circuit that could result is such that rapid overheating would almost
certainly be followed by a fire. However, a fusible link will melt even quicker - and break the
circuit before that can happen. If a fusible link has to be replaced, it needs very careful
soldering to avoid damage by overheating. Generally the job is best left to an expert.