Science of Baking Lesson Contents Introduction .. Hat ROIS .ceensnnesennntsennnsse Soft Rolls, Hamburger and Hot Dog Buns .... Dinner Rolls Brown-and-Serve Rolls Bagels Self-Check Quiz © 2001 by American Institute of Baking EDUCATIONLEARNING OBJECTIVES After reading this lesson, the student will be able to: Discuss the characteristics of and differences between hard rolls and soft rolls. Be familiar with the different styles of hard rolls and how to produce them. Discuss brown and service or par-baked rolls. Explain the bagel production process. NEW TERMS Some of the terms you will encounter in this lesson appear below. If any of the terms are unfamiliar, use your glossary to help you understand the material you read. Bagel Knot and/or Twisted Roll Bagel Former Lean Formula Brown-and-Serve Roll —_No-Time Dough System Bun Pan Flow Butter Flake Roll Parkerhouse Roll Cloverleaf Roll Retarded Dough System Club Roll Roll Crescent Roll Scoring Crusty Roll Split Rolls Dinner Roll Steam Hamburger Bun String Line Method Hard Roll Vienna Roll Hot Dog Bun Waldorf Roll Kaiser Roll KettlingIntroduction This lesson will deal with various hard and soft roll/bun prod- ucts, including bagels. Formulations, processing and finished product characteristics will be covered. Functions of ingredients jn the United States, Federal and the equipment used in the production of these products have standards exist that stan- been covered in previous lessons. dardize the terms “roll” and In the United States, Federal standards exist that standardize the “buns*. Rolls and/or buns terms “roll” and “buns”. Rolls and/or buns are items that weigh ate items that weigh less less than one-half pound (<227 g), while loaves of bread are those than one-half pound (<227 items that have a net weight exceeding one-half pound (>227 g). 8), while loaves of bread are : so those items that have a net Roll and bun products account for over 25% of the total bread Stes . {weight exceeding one-half products market in the United States. The terms “roll” and “bun” Pound (2397 g). are often used interchangeably. Some of the more common types are: hamburger buns, hot dog buns, Kaiser rolls, bagels, dinner rolls and hard rolls, The variety of rolls or buns is practically unlimited as they vary in formulation, size and shape. Hard Rolls Roll Characteristics. When referring to hard roll products, the word “hard” implies that the crust of the finished product is hard to the touch. Hard rolls generally have a tougher, chewier crust compared to soft rolls. ‘The term “crusty rolls” is also used for some types of hard rolls. The shape of the rolls may vary from round to oblong and to baton, but the absence of product bottom flow (pan flow) is a commonly shared characteristic Formulation. The formulation of a white hard roll is generally lean. This means that the percentages of sugar, shorten- ing, milk solids, and eggs are White Hard Roll Formulations (Range of Basic Ingredients) low in relation to the flour. Ingredient % Notes In fact, the only essential Flour 400___ (generally strong, 12-15% protein) ingredients needed to pro- Water 50-60 duce alean, crustyhardroll Yeast —SSS~*~—<“—*~s~sSSSS~S*=C«cmpresssed) are flour, wat Salt 1.5-2.25 salt, The table a Sugar [sucrose, dextrose, HFCS) gives arange of the basic Shgntning/ol_ 0 vegetable or anima ingredients that are used to Hiksolge 04 (NFDM, whey/sy blend) produce hard rolls. Ne Hues ar ols ia “nondiastati most common) igh-protein louris inal yeaet food ‘generally used to impart Fags —_ Hard Rolls, Soft Rolls & Bagels — 4.Adisplay of hard rolls. No time and straight-dough systems are preferred for hard roll production because they give the greatest yield per pound of flour and the least pan flow of all the other available dough systems. 2—Science of Baking, strength to the dough, which results in a good product height and restricted pan flow. The protein contributes to the tough and chewy crust character, as well as enhances its crispness. Crust color and flavor are also improved by the increased browning, reaction during baking, ‘The water absorption used is lower than that for pan breads and soft rolls. ‘The lower absorption decreases pan flow or flat bot- toms, retards yeast activity and decreases the product’s crumb softness’shelf life Salt makes the dough tougher and limits pan flow. Salt also has a large effect on bread flavor. Sugar provides nutrients for yeast fermentation and contributes to crust color. If the dough contains insufficient sugar it may have inadequate oven spring, Shortening enhances loaf volume and tightens the crumb grain of the finished product. Milk sotids produces darker crust color and enhance the flavor. Nonfat dry milk and whey’soy blends also improve the nutritional value of the finished product. Malt (nondiastatic syrup or dry form) increases the level of maltose in the dough, which aids in the Maillard browning reac- tion, resulting in a darker crust color and improved crust flavor. Diastatic malt (with active enzymes) is used by some bakers fo improve dough machinability (softness). Rye hard rolls are produced by replacing 10 to 40% of the white flour with rye flour and adding about 2% caraway, 1 to 3% wheat gluten, and 2 to 5% additional water to the white hard roll formulation, Whole-wheat hard rolls are produced by replacing 10 to 40% of the white flour with whole-wheat flour, adding 1 to 3 wheat gluten, and increasing the absorption by 1 to 3%. Dough Systems. The most popular dough systems for hard roll production are the no time and the straight-dough systems. These generally give the greatest yield per pound of flour and the least pan flow of all the other available dough systems. Sponge-doughs and liquid ferments will work, but both require reduced water absorptions to control dough softness (machinability) and pan flow: When sponge-doughs are used, a low sponge-flour ratio is recommended. When a no-time dough system is used, a commer- cial no-time dough concentrate or base containing. a proper balance of oxidants and reducing agents is generally used. Wholesale and retail bakeries oth find the no-time dough system to be well suited for hard roll production. No-time doughs are generally viewed as producing white breads lacking in flavor. However, with hard rolls, there is a larger crust-to-crumb ratio therefore the flavor of the crumb is less important The table at the top of the next page shows some representative formulas for hard roll products.Hard Roll Formulas AB c¢ co E& F 6 #H ingredients o % % % #%% i% % % High protein flour a0 50 OO Spring patent flour ee Winter patent flour a First clear flour = - 8 70~CO”S~<“CS”*~‘“‘S™*SS Medium rye flour ee Coarse whole wheat = CUO ‘Vital wheat gluten => 3 2 - = 2. 3 Water Soa 60-58—SCSC*‘“_ SC Yeast 2.25 2 2.3 28 2 2 Sat 2.25 2 225 475 475 2 2 Sugar a 2 1 3 2-2 2 Mart 2 a2. a 2 3 22 Shortening a 3 i 3 a8 - i 2 Milk solids == = = - - 2 Ege whites = Ss ss Yeast food 05 05 075 075 05 05 05 — A-Keiser Rolls ‘D—Wheat Rolls, (G-Steak Rolls B-Vienna Rolls E-Club Rolls H-Split Rolls (c-Rye Rolls F-Crusty Rolls, ‘These formulas represent straight doughs with 1 to 3 hours of fermentation at 78-82°F (26-27°C). ‘The following changes are made to adapt these formulas to no- time doughs. 1. Add a commercial no-time dough additive (commonly used at 0.5 10 4%) Remove the yeast food Increase absorption by 1 to 3%. Increase yeast by 1 to 1.5%. Mix to development. Eliminate fermentation time after mixing. Dough temperatures can be increased 2-3°F (1-2°C) for smaller volume production. we aoaune Mixing. Doughs should be optimally developed for best machinability during processing. Dividing and Rounding. Bakers using high-speed automated roll equipment want doughs that will divide and round consis- tently. Batch size should be limited to what can be processed in 15 to 20 minutes. All yeast-leavened doughs will continue to produce gas and become tighter with time. Bakers refer to doughs that are excessively gassy and tight as “bucky.” These types of doughs are difficult o process and have a tendency to tear and rupture during makeup. Compared to soft roll doughs, hard roll doughs have a tighter Hard Rolls, Soft Rolls & Bagels — 3feel and a more elastic character. This is because of their relatively leaner formulation, higher protein flour, and lower absorption requirements. Methods of Dividing, Retail bakeries generally first scale the dough into large dough pieces and subdivide these pieces into the individual roll units. ‘The larger dough pieces or presses are rounded and allowed to rest 15 to 20 minutes, then flattened, placed on a pallet and fed into a divider/rounder. Using a semi-automatic divider/rounder, the baker applies pressure fo the dough press and releases the knives to divide the dough. If one wishes, the machine can then round the individual dough pieces in seconds. Newer dividerirounders have inter- changeable cutters and can divide dough into 6, 9, 18, or 36 pieces, with a weight range from 4.3 oz (122 8) per unit for the 6-unit cutter down to 1 oz (28.4 g) per unit for the 36-unit cutter. String Line Method. Another method of dividing hard roll doughs is known as the string line method. In this procedure, the larger dough pieces are moulded as if producing a loaf of bread (in a cylindrical shape) but then given another intermediate proof. Next, the dough is passed under a pressure board or elongator to produce a long, thin dough piece like a French loaf or string. ‘The string is then subdivided by knives or cutter rails Intermediate Proofing, Afier dividing and rounding, the dough pieces need to go through a resting period (intermediate proof) to Eo 4 —Science of Baking,allow the dough to relax from the tightening effects of rounding, Hard roll doughs, being tighter and drier compared to soft roll doughs requires a longer relaxation time. ‘This prevents the dough pieces from rupturing during moulding. Intermediate proofing periods range from 8 to 15 minutes. Moulding. Hard rolls come in a variety of shapes. Vienna rolls are rolled with pointed ends and given two or three diagonal cuts like a Vienna loaf. Waldorf rolls are rolled slightly oblong and given one lengthwise cut. Split rolls are rounded, given about a three-quarter proof and then split with a small round stick or pipe. The splitting is stopped when there is just enough dough left to prevent the two halves from separating. After splitting, the rolls are turned over so that the thin part of the roll, which holds the halves together, is positioned at the top. The rolls then are proofed. Before going to the oven, they are turned right side up to take on a nice round shape. Club rolls, hoagies, poor boys, or steak rolls are similar, The string line method is normally used in their production, Kaiser rolls may be made either by machine or the use of a hand star cutter. The dough is rounded tight and then given a five- minute intermediate proof before cutting. After cutting, the dough pieces are tured upside down on wooden peel boards or cloths for proofing. This allows the bottoms of the rolls to expand and the cuts to be held in place. When the rolls have attained proper proof they are turned right side up and placed in the oven, Crescent rolls are more labor intensive than most other rolls. gine these types of prod- The divided and rounded dough pieces are first sheeted into an ucts are baked in flat pans oblong shape and allowed to relax for a few minutes. The top edge or on oven hearths, the is then stretched outward and folded forward, while, at the same retention of their shape time, the dough piece is rolled forward with one hand. The bottom depends only on their edge is stretched forward with the other hand to help tighten the formulation, moulding, and roll. ‘The seam is then pinched closed and the ends of the roll are _ processing techniques curved inward to form a crescent shape. employed. Proofing. Proofing conditions for hard roll products are like those for hearth breads. A high humidity in the proofer will pro- mote dough flow, while drier atmospheres will help the product retain its shape. Since these types of products are baked in flat pans or on oven hearths, the retention of their shape depends only on their formulation, moulding. and processing techniques em- ployed. Thus, a relatively low humidity is desirable. Many “hearth-style” rolls are produced today using pans with shapes, which allow dough flow and results in flat bottoms. Reducing dough flow also increases product heights. Proofing humidity of 70 to 80% are common. Proofing temperatures of 100-110°F (38- 43°C) are most often used. Cutting or Scoring. Many varieties of hard rolls are cut (some- times called scoring), on the top surfaces with a sharp knife or \water splitter either before or after proofing. This is done to create a weak area on the surface of the dough and helps to control expan- sion during oven spring. The cutting reduces the chances of the product bursting during baking. When the product is cut prior to proofing, it allows the dough piece to spread and the surface to Hard Rolls, Soft Rolls & Bagels — 5Steam helps control the expansion of the product by slowing crust formation. It also creates a shinier and crisper crust. If the steam pressure is too high, the product will not expand in the oven and may even shrink from over-steaming. Soft roll products. 6 —Science of Baking, become smooth, This procedure is recommended when steam is not available for baking, When cutting is performed after the proof, only about three-fourths proof is given to the product to prevent its collapse from the knife pressure. The dough pieces will open up and some product will protrude from the cut if the dough has good oven spring. Some bakers desire this look for their finished product, while others do not. Baking. Baking temperatures for hard rolls range from 400- 450°F (204-232°C), with baking times of 15 to 22 minutes. One. basic requirement for hard roll baking is an abundance of steam during the first quarter to one-third of the bake. When steam is generated by a remote boiler as opposed to in the oven itself (i.e. rack ovens), the steam pressure should not exceed 5 psi at the oven, and the steam should be of high volume and wet. Steam helps control the expansion of the product by slowing crust formation, It also creates a shinier and crisper crust. If the steam pressure is too high, the product will not expand in the oven and may even shrink from over-steaming. Cooling. Hard rolls are small and light weight, therefore, cooling times are short (about 20 to 30 minutes) Packaging, When hard rolls are packaged into polyethylene bags, their crispy crust will be lost within hours. ‘This oct because the polyethylene bag prevents moisture loss, while the high moisture in the roll’s crumb migrates to the drier crust making the crust soft and leathery. For this reason, hard rolls are considered to have a short shelf life of about 12 to 24 hours at the retail level Crispy crusts can be regenerated with bagged rolls by reheating before serving: however, this results in a greater moisture loss and some loss of flavor compounds, Special plastic bags are available which have small to microscopic “holes” in them, ‘The “holes” allow controlled venting of excess moisture from the bag. While this helps retain the crusts crispness, moisture is still vented from the package, resulting in a much shorter shelf life than products of rich formula, which are packed in solid bags. These vented plastic bags are utilized more by retailers than in wholesale production. Soft Rolls Soft rolls are small, sof, and tender bread products. They are quite different in character from hard rolls in that they generally have a sweeter taste, thin soft crusts, are tender to the bite, and are easier to chew. They may be of the same size and even similar in shape to hard rolls; however, their formulations and processing techniques are different. Soft roll products contain higher levels of sugar, shortening, yeast and water than hard rolls. This richness formulation, along with their shorter baking times reduces crust thickness as compared to hard roll products. Generally no steam is used during baking of soft rolls. The more popular varieties of soft rolls include: hamburger and hot dog buns and dinner rolls that includes seed knots, Parkerhouse, cloverleaf, butter flake, crescent, egg, potato and brown-and-serve rolls. A few of these products are made only by hand; however,‘many are produced by machine in both retail and wholesale baker- ies, Soft Roll Formulations (Hamburger and Hot Dog Buns Sponge % Range Notes Average % Bun Formula Flour ‘winter/epring blend (11 -5-42.5% protein) 80 Water 55:60" 46.458) Yeast ra ‘compressed/fresh 3 Mineraiyeast food 0.0.75 ‘bromatedtype 08 Dough strengtheners/ crumb softeners on s8L/monoglycerides 1 Protease enzymes a4 Diablets tablets Wheat gluten 03 Ey Dough * * Flour 40-0 20, Water 58.68" 73.660), Yeastispike) 02 1 Sat 152.25 24 Sugar 6:16 Solids (42HFCS) 2 solids Fat 2:10 soy ail 5 Mik sofas 08 wihy/s0y blend 0 Calcium propionate 0.0.35 0.28 Calcium peroxide 0-75 pm 30 ppm Oxidation O75 ppm (ADA ascorbic acid) 20 ppm ‘Percent is based on sponge flour weight “Percent represents total absorption Hamburger and Hot Dog Buns ‘The market for these types of rolls has increased tremendously cover recent years with the growth of the fast-food chain restaurants “Today; there are dedicated bun plants with production lines that can produce over 600 buns per minute Characteristics. Hamburger and hot dog buns generally have the same formulation, but differ in their shape. The hamburger bun is round, averaging 3.5 to 5 inches (about 8.9 to 12.7 em) in diam- eter, whereas most hot dog buns are oblong, averaging 5 to 6 inches {about 12.7 to 15.3 em) in length, Both types of bun are about 1.5 inches (3.8 em) high. ‘The crust color should be an even reddish-brown with a slight sheen, The symmetry should be uniform. A poor symmetry indicates poor pan flow or poor panning (dough placement). ‘There should be little or no break and shred. When a break does occur, it anrburger bun shourdook must be even all around the product. The buns should be dome- fike shaped with a slight crown in the middle. Exeessively flat and ball- shaped buns are not desirable. ‘The bottom bake can be slightly darker than the top. In fact, this is desired by many bakers fo assure proper setting of the crumb Hard Rolls, Soft Rolls & Bagels — 7Hamburger bun crust should be resilient or flexible, When the top of the bun is de- pressed, it should spring back. The crust should be thin so it remains pliable ‘The grain should have slightly thick cell walls, giving the crumb a slightly darker color than white bread. Automated baking plants can produce thousands of hamburger buns an hour. 8 —Science of Baking, structure and to avoid product collapse during cooling, The crust should be resilient or flexible, When the top of the bun is depressed, it should spring back. The crust should be thin so it remains pliable. The grain should have slightly thick cell walls, giving the crumb a slightly darker color than white bread. Buns generally possess a slightly larger, more open cell structure and a slightly harsher texture than bread Buns have little fermentation aroma as compared to bread and their taste is predominantly sweet. The bun should give a clean bite and spring back. It should not become soggy when a piece of meat or sandwich spread is placed on its cut surface. It should be soft but not doughy, when it is chewed. Formulation. The following formulations and ranges are typical of those used in the industry. Though any dough system can be used for the production of hamburger and hot dog buns, the formulations as given are designed for the sponge-and-dough process Ingredients. Good bread flour with a slightly higher protein content is used to make good buns. Many bakers use blends of spring and winter patent flours to give them the desired crumb whiteness and strength. Wheat gluten is often added to bun doughs to improve the hinge quality after slicing. The added strength improves the hinge quality of hot dog buns after slicing and pre- vents the top crusts of both hamburger and hot dog buns from cracking when compressed on a restaurant grill for toas A bun that is too brittle and falls apart upon opening is poor quality. Soft buns have higher water absorption than hard buns. ‘The ‘water absorption varies with the richness of the formulation. Most bun doughs are soft, slack, and very extensible presumably because of the increased water. However, higher sugar levels and proper mixing may actually require a reduction in absorption to avoid stickiness, Sugar is used at a higher level in buns than in breads to impart sweetness. As the quantity of sugar increases, yeast activity slows: therefore, higher yeast levels are used in the formulations. Also, as sugar is increased, the dough becomes softer and slacker and its machining properties are adversely affected. The higher level of sugar shortens baking time and reduces the moisture loss before packaging. Today, high-fructose corn syrups are the most common form of sugar used by the large bakeries because of price and the economics of handling, Even though sugars are considered food for yeast, they actually slow yeast activity when they are added at levels beyond 5 to 6%, based on flour. Sugars are added at the dough stage; therefore, many bakers also add additional yeast to the dough. This is referred to by some as a yeast “spike. Fat is used at higher levels than in bread to improve machin- ability and make the product more tender. Higher fat levels de- crease moisture loss from the product and impede moisture pickup from meats or spreads that are placed on the bun by the user. Today, vegetable oil is most commonly used in the larger bakeries. Protease enzymes are sometimes used by bakers to reduce mixtime, increase pan flow and reduce undesireable bursting ofa product Itmust be remembered that enzymes are time and temperature depen- dent. Some bakers do not like to use protease because, the dough is weakened too much and faults show up in the finished product if the dough has to be held due to problems on the lin. Calcium peroxide is an oxidant but also is quite effective as a dough-drying agent. It is often used in bun production to dry the dough. Bun doughs are soft, slack, extensible, and sometimes even tacky in character. Calcium peroxide helps to reduce the sticky or tacky dough character and to improve the machinability without excessive stiffening the dough. Because of the small product weight, combined with a large surface area, relative moisture loss during baking and cooling is greater than with the larger bread loaves. Higher levels of erumb softeners such as monoglycerides are typically added to hamburger and hot dog bun formulas to help retain softness during shelf life Hamburger and hot dog buns can be produced by any dough system. Retail bakeries find the straight-dough and no-fime dough systems most suitable while large wholesale bun bakers generally use the sponge-and-dough or liquid ferment systems. Because of the types of makeup equipment used in both seements of the baking industry. drier and firmer doughs are easier to work with in retail plants, whereas softer, slacker, and more pliable doughs are needed for wholesale production Bun doughs are mixed to full development to maximize their volume and strength. They may be slightly overmixed by some bakers’ standards to enhance pan flow. This leads to an increase in the dough’s stickiness. ‘To overcome the stickiness, cooler doughs, lower water absorption, and calcium peroxide are used. Dough temperatures are generally kept cool in the range of 76-80°F (24-27°C), which is slightly lower than that for bread doughs. This improves scaling accuracy and dough handling through makeup. Floor times after mixing are usually kept short (0 to 10 min- utes). When bun dough becomes old in production because of equipment breakdowns or excessively high dough temperature, it becomes gassy and tight in character (bucky). The gassines caused by CO, production by the yeast. This changes the dough's density, resulting in inaccurate scaling weights, holes in the crumb, and possibly blisters on the top crust. The buckiness causes poor rounding and difficulty with sheeting, resulting in decreased pan flow and misshapen product. ‘The method of dividing and shaping buns in the retail bakery is basically the same as for round hard rolls. Hamburger buns are allowed fo rest 10 to 15 minutes after panning and are then flat- ‘ened to reduce their height and increase their diameter. Hot dog buns are divided and rounded in the same manner, but are allowed to rest 5 to 10 minutes on the bench then either rolled individually by hand to the desired lengths, or hand-fed into a sheeter’moulder designed fo produce hot dog buns The method of dividing and shaping buns in the larger whole~ sale bakeries is commonly done on an automated line that divid Formulation changes, compared to white pan bread, are summarized as follows: 4, Flour—slightly higher protein levels (about 12 to 12.5% protein) 2. Sugar—higher (about 10 - 14% solids) 3. Yeast—higher (1% yeast for every 3% sugar used) 4. Fat—higher (about 3 - 7% shortening or oils) 5. Crumb softeners—high (monoglycerides) 6. Possible protease en- zyme use—to increase pan flow, reduce mix time, and decrease oven spring. 7. Possible calcium peroxide use—to improve dough machinability and reduce stickiness. Hard Rolls, Soft Rolls & Bagels — 9‘The final proofing is accom- plished in 40 to 60 minutes at dry bulb temperatures of 105-410" F (40.5-43°C) and a relative humidity of 90 to 95%. These temperature and humidity levels are typically higher than in white bread production. 10 Science of Baking rounds, rests, shapes, and pans the dough pieces on two machines. The most common are the Model-K and extruder divider, and Pan-O-Mat. ‘These equipment units require doughs that are softer, slacker, and more extensible than white bread dough. Large commercial bakeries use bun pans that have cups or indentations for the individual dough pieces. The dough units are not sheeted to fill the cup completely at the panning stage, but are merely sheeted enough to create some flatness and to control the final product shape. Pan flow is influenced by formulation, mix- ing, dough temperature, sheeting, and proofer humidity. ‘The final proofing is accomplished in 40 to 60 minutes at dry: bulb temperatures of 105-110°F (40.5-43°C) and a relative humid- ity of 90 to 95%. These temperature and humidity levels are typically higher than in white bread production. If the temperature used is too high, blisters or holes can form just under the top crust. This condition is caused by the acceleration of yeast activity in the outer portions of the dough piece and the slow heat transfer to the center portions of the unit. ‘The higher relative humidity enhances pan flow of the product. In the proofer, moisture condenses on the cool product surface. ‘This surface moisture not only prevent the dough piece from crusting during proofing, but is also absorbed into the dough, weakening the surface structure and resulting in more pan flow. Excessive condensation may cause blisters to form on the top crust of the buns, Either insufficient or too much moisture are detrimental to hamburger/hot dog bun production. Proper proof box humidity is one of the most critical control points in their manufacture. Seeding of buns can be done before or after the proof. Most large commercial bakeries prefer to seed after proof. Applying seeds before proofing may cause a portion of them to fall into the cups of the pans and become baked on to the bottom of the buns. ‘This is considered by many bakers to be a poor product qua characteristic. By proofing first, the cup is filled out and a larger surface area is presented to the seeder. A spray of water is applied to the dough surface before the seeds are deposited. It is important that the surface of the buns does not become dry prior to seeding to ensure proper seed adhesion. Most retail shops add seeds after rounding and just before placement on the pan prior to proofing. Pattems of seeding should be designed to reduce seed loss. Seeds are wasted of lost when they miss the product and fall to the top areas of the pan where they become toasted or bumed. After the baked product has been removed from the pans, the pans should be brushed and all debris removed by vacuum. Baking temperatures fall between 435-465°F (224-241°C), with baking times ranging from 7 to 10 minutes. Quick baking times keep bake-out loss fo a minimum and aid shelf life ‘Vacuum depanning of the buns is performed in large commer- cial bakeries immediately after baking. The baked product then enters the cooling conveyor system for about 20 to 30 minutes before going to slicing and packaging. Internal product temper ture generally ranges from 95-105°F (35-41°C) for proper slicingperformance and minimum moisture loss during cooling. When the product is foo warm at the slicer, its shape may be distorted as the soft product is forced into the slicer blades. ‘The warm, moist crumb may also drag on the blades. If the product is too warm, when it is packaged, moisture will condense on the inner surface of the bag. When the product is too cool at slicing, more crumbs will be created as the blades pass through the drier, firmer product. Greater moisture loss also occurs, decreasing product sofiness and reducing shelf life. In retail shops, hot dog buns are often sold unsliced Fiber-enriched and reduced-calorie buns have recently gained in popularity. These products are produced the same as the high fiber breads by diluting the calories with the addition of non- nutritive, water-absorbing fibers. As the fiber and water levels increase in the formula, the dough strength is weakened and, therefore, vital wheat gluten is needed, Hot dog and hamburger buns are usually packed in clusters (usually of four rolls) instead of separate units. This facilitates packing for individual retail customer purchases, as well as limit- ing moisture losses during baking and cooling (less surface area to weight in clusters) which promotes a longer shelf life. Most buns produced for use in food service establishments are baked as individual units. Here, speed of handling for individual orders and a shorter shelf life requirement dictate the preference for individual buns. Dinner Rolls. Dinner rolls are defined as small, soft bread rolls served at meal times. Generally, a person can consume one roll in three to five bites. Unlike the common round hamburger bun, the shape of these rolls is quite varied. The dinner roll gives the baker a chance to show his/her creative skills by contributing to the atmosphere and decoration at the dinner table ‘There are no fixed standards for formulating these products. However, higher levels of sugar, fat, yeast, and water are com- monly used than with hard, crusty roils. Some retail bakers use their sweet dough for these types of rolls. The table below shows the range of basic ingredients used to produce dinner rolls, Higher levels of sugar, fat and yeast are commonly used in dinner rolls. Hard Rolls, Soft Rolls & Bagels — 14.12—Science of Baking Soft Dinner Roll Formulation Range of Basic Ingredients ingredient Notes Flour 10-12% protein Water Yeast ‘compressed Salt Sugar SucTose, dextrose, HFOS Shortening/al vegetable or animal Milk solids NFDM, whey/soy blend Egas Tiquid whole eas Mineral yeast food bromated type ‘The flour used for soft dinner rolls does not require high protein content like that for hard rolls. Some smaller bakers even blend pastry flour with a good quality bread flour to obtain the desired characteristics Water absorption is adjusted to produce soft, pliable dough that is easy to shape. The desired dough consistency generally lies between that for a hard roll and a hamburger bun. ‘Yeast levels are adjusted to compensate for the high sugar level (about 1% compressed yeast for every 3% sugar). Salt is used at normal rates for yeast-leavened breads. It is appropriate to mention here that the use of lower salt levels will yield a softer, less elastic dough character that is more suited to hhand makeup. Sugar levels are high to obtain sweetness and softness, and to aid in quick bakes to yield a thin crust. Shortening/oil levels are normally higher to increase the tender- ness of the finished product. Dough machinability and/or pliability are improved as the fat levels are increased in the formulation, Whole eggs add richness and color to the product. Eggs also exert a strengthening effect on doughs and, hence, increase product volume. Mineral yeast foods are added to enhance dough strength and produet volume. ‘The addition of flavors, spices, seeds, fiuits, vegetables, cheeses, and other types of flour all contribute to the infinite variety of soft dinner rolls. All of the various dough systems can be used for the production of soft dinner rolls. The formulas for soft dinner rolls shown in below are based on the straight-dough process. These straight doughs are fermented one to three hours with set temperatures of 76-82°F (24-28°C). ‘The doughs for dinner rolls are mixed to full development to create good extensibility for easy dividing and machinability. Cloverleaf, butter flake, and split rolls are baked using cupcake. muffin pans. One method of making cloverleaf rolls in the retail bakery is to take a divided dough piece (one roll unit) and divide itSoft Dinner Roll Formulas Ingredients A 8 c D E F % % % % % % Spring patent four = 30 70 = = a0 Winter patent flour 700 = = 70 30 = Pastry fiour = = 30 = a = Potato flour = 10 = = a Coarse whole wheat = = = 30 = 60 Water 5 eo 82 2 oa 6a Yeast 4 3 55 35 25 3 Salt 75 2 is 2 175 2 Sugar 10 8 16 8 é é Shortening 8 6 Fay 8 é 2 Mik solids 4 2 2 4 é é Whole exes 75 = 3 = Yeast food 0.25 os 075 05 O5 7s Lemon and vanilla flavor Basia dinner DWheat rols B Potato rolls EParkerhouse rolls knots F.60% wheat rolls, ‘equally into three smaller pieces, which are rounded and placed into a muffin cup side by side. Another method is to place the rounded rol! units into the eups of the muffin pans and divide them within the cups before proofing. Smaller bakeries may use hand-held cutters that cut three of four rolls ata time. In wholesale bakeries using the Model-K a special cutter machine will euta whole pan full ofrolls at one time. Split rolls are produced similar to cloverleaf rolls, except that the roll units are only cut in half, In wholesale bakeries butter flake rolls are made by cutting the roll units in the pan. Oil is first sprayed on top of the panned roll units fo aid in the release of the dough piece from the cutter. Often this oil is butter-flavored and may contain a mold inhibitor. In retail bakeries butter flake rolls are made by first sheeting out a larger dough piece. Next, a layer of butter or margarine is applied over two-thirds of the sheeted dough. The dough sheet is then folded, producing a dough piece with two layers of fat and three layers of dough. This is then again sheeted and given a three- fold, creating a dough piece having six layers of fat and seven layers of dough. Second three-fold = Six layers of fat and seven layers of dough This laminated dough piece is rested ten to fifteen minutes, then divided by a divider/rounder roll machine. The divided roll pieces are then deposited on end (i... on their cut sides), with the fat and dough layers positioned vertically in the cups. Parkerhouse rolls are made by sheeting the individual roll units and coating one side with melted butter or oil. Next, the dough A layer of butter or marga- rine is applied over the sheeted dough in retail bakeries. The dough is then folded, sheeted, and rolled and sheeted again. Hard Rolls, Soft Rolls & Bagels — 1314 —Science of Baking piece is folded in half and pressed with the palm of the hand to the fold. A divider‘rounder can be used for this operation, but only for dividing. The dough pieces will be flat. Melted butter is first brushed over the whole press. While separating the roll units, each is stretched and elongated, folded, pressed, and panned. Knots or twisted rolls are also made by hand. ‘The individual roll units are first shaped like hot dog buns and allowed to relax five fo ten minutes. They are then stretched and twisted into the desired shapes. At the retail level, most of these rolls are washed with a dilute egg wash or commercial non-egg based produets to create shine, crust color, and improved seed adhesion. Proofing temperatures of 105-110°F (43-46°C) and relative humidity of 75-85% are desirable. A baking temperature range of 390-42 (199-216°C) is found suitable for most dinner roll products. Brown-and-Serve Rolls Brown-and-serve products are roll or bread items that have been baked enough to set the finished product but insufficient to create a crust color (par baked). ‘They are intended to be given a final bake by the consumer to produce the desired crust color ‘Today, there is a market for both soft and hard brown-and-serve products Brown-and-serve soft rolls require adjustments in their formu- lation. Absorption is decreased by 1 to 3% to aid the structure of the finished product because less water is baked out. A decrease in yeast of about 1 to 2% (to about 50 to 60% of original level) is required to control oven spring because of the lower baking tem- peratures employed. An optional decrease in sugar of about 1 to 4% helps in the control of crust color. Finally, because of the decrease in moisture loss during baking, the product has higher moisture content. To increase the shelf life of the product, an increased level of mold inhibitor is required (example: calcium propionate at about 0.1 to 0.2%). In producing brown-and-serve products, there is no need to alter the dough system, mixing, fermentation, or makeup steps. A shorter proof time (about three-fourths of a normal full proof) is given to control the oven spring at the lower baking temperatures of 275-325°F (135-163°C). A minimum internal product tempera- ture of 170° to 180°F (77-82°C) must be reached during baking to gelatinize the starch and set the product structure. Steam applied during baking will help control oven spring and impart a shine to the product. Product baked in cups, such as cloverleaf, butter flake, or split rolls, are usually depanned immediately after baking and placed on trays for cooling and packaging. In systems, where vacuum depanning is unavailable, the product is cooled in the pans for ten to fifteen minutes and then removed. If left in the pans too ong, the rolls begin to stick, resulting in damaged product Brown-and-serve hard rolls are handled exactly the same as the fully baked product, except baking time is shorter to minimizecrust color formation. Because of the lower sugar level in most formulations, crust color is not as much of a problem as in soft rolls. Mold inhibitor percentages may need to be increased to extend the mold-free shelf life of the finished product. The shelf life of brown-and-serve product is inherently longer than that for fully baked products of similar formulations. Be- cause the product is rebaked at about 400-425°F (204°-218°C) just before serving, itis refreshed (crumb softens due to warming) and new flavor compounds are generated by the crust browning reac- tions. ‘The consumer, therefore, perceives all the characteristics of a freshly baked product. However, staling occurs very rapidly after the consumer rebakes the product. After only a few minutes, rebaked brown- and-serve products typically become quite firm. Additional reheating may briefly refresh the roll a second time, but due to additional moisture loss during rebaking, staling is even more rapid than after the first home heating, Bagels The original bagel, first made some 300 years ago in Vienna, Austria, was essentially a hard roll that had been specially formed into the shape of a stirrup (German Bagel). The bagel was created to honor the Polish King, Jan Sobieski, and his very capable horsemen for their decisive victory in a historic battle against the ‘Turks in 1683. However. over the years, simplicity prevailed and the stirrup shape was transformed into a circle, and the bagel became the bagel. What distinguishes the bagel from other hard rolls today is not only the shape but also ard crust and chewy crumb. These are produced by a long retarding step and a unique processing step that involves boiling the proofed bagel before baking. Boiling helps the product hold its shape and creates a shiny, chewy crust by gelatinizing the starch and sealing the crust before baking. This “water bagel” (a bagel that has been boiled) has been affection- ately referred to as a “Brooklyn jawbreaker” and a “doughnut with rigor mortis.” The popularity of bagels has grown greatly in recent years. Their versatility is such that they can be made into a sandwich, toasted and buttered, spread with cream cheese, or eaten plain. Some of the more popular varieties include blueberry, onion, garlic, cinnamon/taisin, rye, pumpernickel, wheat, oat, and egg bagels. As with other breads and rolls, bagel varieties are limited only by the baker’s imagination. Formulation. Most bagel formulations are generally lean, i.c., low in sugar, shortening and eggs. The table on the next page gives a range of the basic ingredients used to produce plain bagels. ‘The shelf life of brown-and- serve product is inherently longer than that for fully baked products of similar formulations. inguishes the bagel from other hard rolls today is not only the shape but also its hard crust and chewy crumb. These are produced by a long retarding step and a unique process- ing step that involves boiling the proofed bagel before baking. Boiling helps the product hold its shape and creates a shiny, chewy crust by gelatinizing the starch and sealing the crust before baking. Hard Rolls, Soft Rolls & Bagels — 15Plain Bagel (Range of Basic Ingredients) Notes Tigh gliten 13.5 to 14 5% protein Ingredient Flour Water Yeast Sat Sugar Shortei Mat compressed (non-diastatic most common) ‘The high-protein flour imparts a tough, chewy character to the finished product and also affects the erust flavor and color by increasing the browning reaction compounds during baking. The absorption is low, restricting pan flow so the product will hold its shape after forming and proofing. This low absorption also con- tributes to the tough chewy character and the short shelf life of the bagel. ‘Yeast level is also low. This produces a density in the finished product that is much greater compared to that of most other bread and roll products The level of salt addition is regulated primarily by flavor, Salt Bagel Formulations Ingredients A% 8% o% D% 6 F% 0% High-protein flour 00 700 82 32 92 90100 ight ye flour 25 3S Coarse whole wheat 10 Pumpernickel flour = Potato flour S Vital wheat gluten a5 3 is z Zz Water a8 a 30 30 e a «50 Yeast 05 O58 05 078 08 05 Zz Sat 15 2 2 2 ais 475 ~=«418 Sugar 2 2 a i 2 3 3 Malt 2 i 2 2 Z z i Shortening = 2 z 3 2 Eggs - 5 Ege shade O28 = Raisins = - : - = 10" ‘Caramel color ° a : T Caraway seed E E O75 z 7 E = Ginnamon - : Or Yeast food 05 Os O75 O75 075 075 015 "Delay adding raising until end of mixing — just blend in These are retarded doughs — 8 to 24 hours — initial dough temperatures of 80-86 °F(27-30°C) A-Plain Bagel B-Egg Bagel (Pumpernickel Bagel 16 — Science of Baking D-Rye Bagel G—Cinnamon/Raisin Bagel E-Potato Bagel Wheat Bagelalso exerts a toughening effect on protein and helps the product retain its shape, Si is used mainly as food for the yeast. In a lean formula, such as bagel dough, enough sugar may have to be added to obtain a proper volume, Since the finished product is expected to have a thick, chewy crust, long baking times are the rule. Excess sugar in the formulation would result in too dark a crust cotor. Shortening or oil will improve the volume of the finished product but will also render the product less tough and less chewy. Machinability of the bagel dough during dividing and forming is improved at higher fat levels ‘Non-diastatic malt is commonly used in bagel produetion to enhance crust flavor and color. It may be the only source of sugar added to the formulation. Other optional ingredients include the following: 1 Monoglycerides to help extend shelf life. 2. Wheat gluten—used with weaker flours to give the desired bagel characteristics 3. Osidants—to help impart strength and volume to the product. 4, Mold inhibitors —to help inerease the mold-free shelf life ofthe product 5. Dough strengtheners (emulsifiers) —to augment protein strength and volume of the product. 6. Soy flour—to improve crust color and decrease toughness, ‘The previous page lists typical bagel formulations. Dough Systems. The two most popular dough systems in use today are the no-time and retarded dough systems, The retarded dough The no-time dough system is system involves mixing and forming the bagels, then aging them ata used by large wholesale lower refrigerated temperature before final b: The no-time dough ‘manufacturers and many system is used by large wholesale manufacturers and many retail opera- retail operstions because it tions, Ithas the shorter processing time and greater finished product ane ere oceans time and greater finished yield (per Ib or kg of flour used) of the two methods, product yield. ‘The no-time dough method requires higher yeast levels than those shown in the table on the previous page, as well as the use of reducing agents and relatively high levels of oxidants. There are now several no- time dough concentrates and base mixes available to the baker that are specifically designed for bagel production. This makes it much easier for someone with only limited experience to produce bagels Mixing, Mixing times vary greatly, depending on the mixer and its bowl capacity. Spiral and horizontal mixers find common use in today’s plants. Because of low absorptions and the high-protein flours normally used, the doughs are stiff and hard on the equipment. Unless the mixer is specifically designed for bagel doughs, itisrecommended not to exceed 60% of the mixers normal capacity. The larger high-speed bagel ‘operations require a dough that is fully developed for smoother handling. Dough temperatures range from 76-80°F (24-27° C). For many of the sinaller retail bagel operations, fully mixed doughs are also desirable, Hard Rolls, Soft Rolls & Bagels — 17After the dough is mixed, divided and formed (shaped), the bagels are proofed slightly and then placed into a retarder to allow a slow aging. This procedure has the further convenience that the bagels can be pulled from the retarder, boiled and baked, as the demand requires. 18 —Science of Baking however, dough temperatures can go as high as 85°F(29°C). Be of the smaller batch sizes and the type of divider used, these higher ‘temperatures result in softer doughs that proof more rapidly. ‘Undermixing results in a low product volume and a non-uniform crust color. Scaling and Makeup. Bagels are produced in many different sizes, from the small mini-bagel to the very large “super bagel.” However, the typical sizes range from 2.0- to 3.5-0z (57 to 99 g) for the more common 3- and 4-inch (7.6 and 10.2 em) finished bagels. Bagels may be shaped either manually or with bagel machines (formers) The more automated lines can produce more than 3,000 dozen bagels per hour. Before bagel formers were available, the baker would place the mixed dough on a wood bench and cover it with a piece of plastic to prevent the dough from crusting. Using a sharp knife, a two- inch (5 em) wide strip was eut from the dough mass. This strip of dough was then laid on its side and again a two-inch (5 em) square strip was cut from it. The strip was then rolled into a rope or string about 1.25 inch (3.2 cm) in diameter. One end of the string was rolled down further in size to about 0.75 inch (1.9 om) thick. This narrower end of dough was wrapped around the first three fingers of the hand and the dough piece broken fo leave about one inch (2.5 cm) overlap under the palm of the hand. ‘The dough was then rolled forward on the bench, while pressure was applied and the two ends sealed together (rolling the dough piece back in the other direction will open up the seam again.) ‘The formed bagel was placed on com meal or rice flour-coated boards or pans for proof- ing and/or retarding. ‘Today, large and small bagel bakeries generally use mechanical bagel formers. After the dough is mixed, divided and formed (shaped), the bagels are proofed slightly and then placed into a relarder to allow a slow aging. This procedure has the further convenience that the bagels can be pulled from the retarder, boiled and baked, as the demand requires. The yeast level is very low to avoid both overfermentation and using up all the sugar in the dough. Overfermentation can result in holes in the crumb, blisters on the erust, low volume, lack of oven spring, and loss of crust color. Proofing and/or Retarding. There are several ways of process- ing bagels before boiling. In some bakeries they are retarded for up to two days, while in others they are proofed in'a standard proof box at 100-110°F (38°-43°C) and with 65 to 75% relative humidity for 30 to 60 minutes. Still other bakers will proof the bagels first and then retard them from eight to 48 hours. Where a proofer is not available, a covered rack may be used. Proper formulation for all of these Various methods is important to achieve satisfactory results. Traditionally, processed bagels have been retarded a minimum of eight hours to allow for a slow rate of fermentation for flavor development and consistent product handling, Boiling/Kettling, This is the one unique step in the production, of this bread/roll item. Boiling the bagel causes it to increase in volume, seals the outer skin by gelatinizing the starch, helps it hold its useshape, and develops. high glossy shine on its crust. Bagels directly from the retarder should stand at room tempera ture for 20 to 30 minutes before kettling. ‘This will ensure that the bagel bakes properly and the kettle does not lose too much heat to excessively cold bagels. ‘The kettle temperature for boiling can be 200-212°F (93- 100°C). ‘The length of kettling time will vary with the kettle tem- perature and bagel temperature, Bagels may be boiled either in plain water or in 2.5% solutions of sugar, malt or honey. When placed into the kettle, the bagels should sink to the bottom for about 30 seconds and then float, Soft bagels should float immediately. and be boiled an additional 1.5 minutes on each side. ‘The bagels are then taken from the water and placed on paper-lined pans or canvas-covered boards for baking. Baking. Baking temperatures used for bagel production vary according to the type of oven, formulation, and desired product characteristics. Using conventional revolving tray, deck or tunnel- type ovens, the temperatures will range from 450-550°F (232- 288°C). Rack-type ovens may exceed 525°F (274°C), but the temperature will drop with the use of steam. Baking on boards is traditional in the smaller retail bakeries to prevent the wet bagels Omitting the boiling stage i from sticking to the oven hearth or shelf. bagel production saves Another method of processing bagels is to omit the boiling’ tabor but is the source of a kettling and use instead a high volume of wet steam for the first continuing debate about three minutes of the bake, similar to baking other hearth style Product quality. breads. This method gives good retention of their shape and a high glossy shine; however, there is much debate on the resulting quality of the final product. By using a rack-type oven with this method, a bagel bakery could realize substantial savings in labor (reduced product handling) and an increase in productivity. Hard Rolls, Soft Rolls & Bagels — 19Self-Check Quiz 1. What is the legal deseription for rolls or buns in the United States? 2. Most hard roll formulation could be described as lean, which means what? 3, What are the most common bun machines used in wholesale production? 4, What is the common range of baking times for hamburger and hot dog buns? 5, Brown-and-serve rolls are designed to be given the what? il bake by the customer to ereate 6. _ Give two reasons why bagels are boiled in water before baking 7. is an oxidant but also used in bun production as a dough drying agent. 20 Science of Baking