National Institute of

Fashion Technology
Industrial Report
Arthanari Clothing
Private Limited(ACPL)
Satadeep Datta(BFT/
18/503)

Acknowledgement
This is to certify that Mr. Satadeep Datta(BFT/18/503), student of
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur has successfully
complete 2 week Internship program from 10th Dec onwards at
Arthanari Clothing Private Limited, Salem. During this period of
his internship program with us he was found punctual,
hardworking and inquisitive.
We wish all the best for his future endeavours.
Signed by,
Sashi Kumar
(Managing Director, ACPL)

Preface
Working in Arthanari Private limited I have learned and spent the
maximum amount of time in the 2 of the weaving units inside the
industry. I have explained and shared my experience and the
learning that I received for my industry mentor. And have got a
qualitative knowledge about the process floe and working inside
the unit and the work culture of the operators working for 12 to 14
hours in a day.

 Weaving
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft
threads is known as weaving. Weaving is an art that has been
practiced for thousands of years. The earliest
application of weaving dates back to the
Egyptian civilisation.

Weaving is the process interlacement of two

sets of yarns, the warp and the weft.
The weaving department is divided into 2
sheds.
Shed 1: 50 looms
I. 30 rapier looms
II. 20 projectile looms
Shed 2: 48 (all Rapier looms)
Almost 14,000 meters of fabric is made in 1
day. The maximum width of the fabric is 153
inches i.e. 390 cm. Other widths of fabric
include 200, 220 and 190. An efficiency of
65% is achieved.
A variety of weaves are used such as plain,
Process Flow Chart of
twill, satin and fancy weave. They also have Weaving
attachments for dobby. Plain weave is the most
commonly used weave. The department works in all the three
shifts. All the looms are Sulzer Ruti Looms.
RAPIER MACHINES PROJECTILE MACHINES

MAKE: SULZER RUTI MAKE: SULZER RUTI

No. Of Machines: 30 No. Of Machines: 20

Width: 200 cm Width: 390 cm













RAPIER MACHINES PROJECTILE MACHINES

Max. No. Of Heald Shafts Possible: 20 Max. No. Of Heald Shafts Possible: 18

The primary motions are:

Hedding: Raising specific warp yarns by means of the harness or
heddle frame
Picking: Inserting filling yarns through the shed
Beating-up: Or battening is pushing filling yarns firmly in place
by means of
the reed.
The secondary motions are:
Taking-up and letting-off: Winding the finished fabric on the cloth
beam and releasing more of the warp from the warp beam
Warp Preparation
The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages
(cone, cheese) on to a common package (warp beam) is called
warping.

Warping carries out following operations:

• Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads, of a warp
composed of any number of threads with the desired length

• Arrangement of above- mentioned threads according to the

desired sequence

• Manufacturing of a warp beam with said characteristics

 DIRECT BEAMING
The system is for large scale mass production.
Importance of Warping:
INDIRECT/SECTIONAL BEAMING
The sectional-warping system is used for shorter runs on high
class goods.

Objects of Warping:
To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so
that
they can be collect on a single warp beam as a continuous sheet of
yarns which can be used for sizing or next process
The warp method in ACPL is of two types:

Section warping is a two-stage-

Direct beaming is the winding
machine method of preparing a
of the total number of warp ends
warp on a beam, consisting of
in full width in a single operation
firstly winding a warp in sections
from a creeled bobbin, either
on to a reel, and then beaming-
onto a weaver’s beam or onto a
off the complete warp from the
sectional beam.
reel onto a weave’s beam.

• Construction of a beam of warp yarn.

• Construction of a parallel yarn sheet.






• Modifying the faults of yarn like thick or thin place.

• Winding the pre- determined length of yarn.

• Combination of small packages.

• Accelerating the next process.

Important requirements of Warping:

• The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly

constant during all the time of with drawl from the supply
package.

• Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical

properties of yarn.







 • The tension should be moderate to allow the yarn complete

retain its elastic
properties.

• Predetermined length should be observed.

• Production rate should be high as possible.

• The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.

There are 2 direct warping machine.( V-shaped creel is used).

• One with creel capacity of 784 cones.

• Two with creel capacity of 704 cones.

There are 3 sectional warping machines (It use dyed yarns
also).

• H-shape creel is used with 8 columns and 40 rows.

I machine – 640 creel capacity. II machine – 720 creel capacity. III
machine – 720 creel capacity.
There are 2 sampling machines:
I. Sampling machine make upto 70-80m beam.

II. Sampling machine make upto 300m beam.

























SIZING DEPARTMENT
The weaving process requires the warp yarn to be strong, smooth
and elastic or extensible to a certain degree. To achieve these
properties on the warp yarns,a protective coating of a polymeric
film forming agent ( size ) is
applied to the warp yarns prior to weaving. This process is called
slashing or sizing.
After the fabric is woven, the size materials will be removed from
the fabric during the finishing process which is called Desizing.
Main Purposes of Warp Sizing
• to increase the strength of the yarns

• to reduce the yarn hairiness that would cause problems in

weaving process

• to increase the abrasion resistance of the yarn against other

yarns and various weaving machine elements

• to reduce fluff and fly during the weaving machine process

for high speed weaving machines
PROCESS
1. SAW BOX NO.1-
In this fabric passes from 2 dip and 2 nip at 90◦C
temperature.
Dip consist of immersion roller.
Nip consist of squeeze roll and size roll.
2. SAW BOX NO.2-
In this also fabric passes through 2 dip and 2 nip at 90◦C
temperature.



























 • 3. DRYER-
Warp beam roller is dried at 110◦C (or 115◦C depends on no.
of ends). 7.5% moisture for cotton.

Fig: Action of Sizing of Fibre.

MIXING DEPARTMENT Recipe for sizing:

• Maize starch (soloact)

• Elvanol (T66)

• Sonicryl (binder)

• Sico 12 (softener)

• Fabproof (pesticide)

• Water





 Working Process for Weaving

• Take charge handover from previous shift operators and check

the cleaning of the machine.
• Indicator lights:
• Warp breakage: Blue
• Weft breakage: Yellow
• Weft package: Yellow + White
• Doff length: Yellow + White (continuous blinking)
• Mechanical or electrical: Red
• Always mend warp ends with same warp yarn shade and use
weaver knot.
• Reset meter after reach length of fabric
and inform to roll doffer to cut fabric roll. Always use plastic
wire for inserting the weft yarn in an accumulator.
• Always use red hook for drawing the warp yarn in heald and
reed.

Fig: Weaving Process

 Weaving Faults:
• Hole
• Design Cut
• Wrong Drawing
• Wrong Denting
• Wrong Warp Pattern
• Wrong Weft Pattern
• Missing End
• Double End
• Cheera, Chappa, Stitches, Float
• Lashing Pick
• Tall Ends
• Bad Selvedge
• Wrong Monogram
• Wrong Design
• Wrong Lifting
• Reed Mark
• Temple Mark
• Oil Stain
• Jhiri, Patti

• Let-off-mark
• Starting Mark
• Small Weft cut, Long Weft Cut
• Double Pick
WEAVING CALCULATIONS
• Total no. of end = EPI × reed space (inches) • Loom
efficiency =
actual production
calculated production × 100
Actual production ×100
actual running time + stopped time
Production calculation
• Production per shift = RPM × 60 × 8 × efficiency

(In meters )
• Production per shift = (In yards )
PPI × 39.37
RPM × 60 × 8 × efficiency PPI× 3

Conclusion:
1. The operators didn’t have any place to sit or to lean
while the looms are running optimally
2. The operators have to work more than 8 hours a day
nearing to 12 to 14 hours and 7 weeks a day
3. The payment for 14hours a day and 7days a week is Rs
530/day.