Rock climbing at Kaeng Krachan National Park.

The mystery of traveling to an unknown destination is like learning to scuba-dive. One reads the
training manuals of diving and don the diving attire and sit at the edge of the boat watching other
divers effortlessly exploring the deep. You shiver in anticipation as you don the diving suit, the
oxygen tanks and the the mouthpiece. Sitting at the edge of the water, you can feel the butterflies
in one’s stomach. As you tumble into the water, you donot know how your maiden dive will turn
out to be. A perfect dive and return to safety, an hair-raising experience and being rescued to
safety or after all the preparation and practice, there is just nothrill.

One is writing this from the cool confines of one’s lake facing room at the picturesque Anantara
Resort and Spa at Hua Hin near Bangkok after returning from a exciting climb to P Lau water fall
inside the Kaeng Krachan National Park, which is one of Thailand’s largest national parks. One
wakes up at 6 a.m. and gets ready to for the two hour drive from Hua Hin to the headquarters of
the park with a brief stopover at a pineapple farm to observe the intricacies of pineapple farming.
One is surprised to know that each pineapple tree fruits just once in a year and we take a few
minutes to eat a pineapple! One enjoys freshly picked sliced pineapples with black tea, before
restarting the journey. After paying the entrance fee at the park headquarters one starts the five
kilometre trek to the third tier of this seven tiered waterfall. The trek to the first tier of this waterfall
is attempted only by forest rangers as it means a two day trek and one must be prepared to camp
inside the forest overnight.

The trek to the third tier is no less difficult though the jungle is not as dence as the core area
bordering Burma. The forest was home to many different tribes before it was declared a protected
area by the authorities. Many of these tribes have settled on the foothills of the forest and can be
seen going about their chores in the villages that dot the countryside. Many of these tribes
migrated to Thailand from Burma and were given temporary permits by the Thai Government.
After entering the park, makes one’s way uphill on foot through a broad mud road. Spectacular
colourful butterflies with intricate freehand designs etched on their wings begin to appear in
droves as asoon as one climbs to the banks of the mountain stream that crosses our path. The
river has toi be crossed with caution as large boulders are strewn across the tiny mountain
stream. Two planks of wood six inches broad are placed strategically over the boulders to enable
one to reach the other side. One needs the skill of a tightrope walker to cross and heaves a sigh
of relief after having successfully reached the other side. The next few kilometres are over hard
rocks and huge boulders which are slippery in the drizzles that are a common feature of
rainforests.

One carefully plants one’s feet to get a firm grip before stepping on the next rock. The advantage
of this trek alongside the stream is being able to watch each tier of the sevdn tiered waterfall at
close quarters. The first tier is small and just drops two feet but as one progresses further the
path gets stonier and steeper and the size of the fall increases at every tier. The second tier is
about four feet but te breadth of the falls is more than the first tier. After the second tier the rock
gives way to the forest and one now climbs along a forest trail winding its way through dense
jungle. Now, the obstacles are the thorny palms that are scattered on the forest floor. The vines
that cross the path and fallen trees also prove formidable hurdles in one’s attempt to progress.
After ninety minutes of non-stop trekking one can hear the cascading sound of the waterfall at the
distance. This is a great motivator and with wearied body and tired mind one keep climbing higher
and higher in an attempt to have the first glimpse of the white water. The first climpse od Pa Lau
falls is nothing short of a miracle, Snow-white water vertically falling over six feet into a
transparent pool. Innumerable fishes can be seen swimming in the waters of the pool. One later
learns that these are fresh water carps who are safe in this sanctuary as hunting or fishing is
illegal inside the national park.

One enters the ice cold waters for a refreshing swim, taking time to soak in the beauty of the
environment. Butterflies float around these falls enjoying the oxygen soaked atmosphere. The
sound of the water, the green cover of the jungle, the tranquilness and peace of the moment are
unforgettable. One can feel the unity of the cosmos seeing the butterflies in the air, fishes in the
ater and the gibbons on the trees around Pa Lau. The word Pa in the tribal dialect means water
and the word lau is a type of tree which abundantly grows in the jungles that stretch across the
borders between Thailand and Burma. Swimming in these waters surrounded by hundreds of
fishes is a divine experience. After spending a few hours experiencing the miracles of nature, one
reluctantly prepares for the srdous trek back to the park headquarters. It’s a slight consolation
that the return trek is not as slippery as the uphill one as the sun is out in all its glory and the
rocks have dried.

How to get there?

The nearest international airport to reach Hua Hin is the Suvarnabhoomi International Airport at
Bangkok. There are several options for Indian tourists to get to Hua Hin from Bangkok.

By bus: The easiest and most popular way to get to Hua Hin from Bangkok is by bus. This 225
km. trip takes 3 hours. There are three bus terminals at Bangkok, namely Northern, Southern and
Eastern. All buses are first class air-conditioned with pushback seats. The bus fare from Bangkok
to Hua Hin costs 120 Baht for ordinary buses to 200 Baht for super-deluxe buses. Airconditioned
buses with pushback seats leave Bangkok’s Southern bus terminal for Hua Hin at half hourly
intervals. The first bus leaves at 6:00 a.m. and the last bus leaves at 6:00 p.m. The one-way
ticket is priced at 177 Baht.

Where to stay?

Anantara Resort Hua Hin is a value for money proposition which offers five star comforts at three
star rates during low season (July to October) and is a value for money proposition by Indian
standards. A standard double room costs approximately 3000/- Baht inclusive of American
breakfast. Budget conscious, middle-class Europeans frequent this eco-friendly property at this
time of the year.

Where to eat?

Many small restaurants serving Thai cuisine dot Hua Hin. Grated coconut with sticky rice is a
local dish, which vegans will relish. The food at the high profile hotels is only for the
gastronomically adventurous who like greasy food. Fresh tropical fruits including pineapples,
tender coconuts and pomelos are available at the local market.

India

Murli Menon, is a travel writer and ZeNLP meditation teacher based in India. He is author of
"ZeNLP-the power to relax" and "ZeNLP-the power to succeed" available on amazon.com. He
can be contacted at ceo@tips4ceos.com

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