1Research Article

3Production of Face Mask Based of Seaweed Caulerpa racemosa

4Adary Karunia Fitri1, Mirni Lamid2, Moch. Amin Alamsjah3*

51Department of Technology of Fisheries Processing, Faculty of Fisheries and Marines,

6Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya 60115, Indonesia

72 Department of Fisheries, Faculty of Fisheries and Marines, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya

860115, Indonesia

93 Department of Fisheries, Faculty of Fisheries and Marines, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya

1060115, Indonesia

11*Corresponding author. Tel.: +62 822 2526 2554, alamsjah@fpk.unair.ac.id

12

13ABSTRACT

14 Seaweed is one of aquaculture product that contains bio-active compound, which

15functions as antioxidants and antibacterial. Seaweed can be used as an additional material for

16cosmetic product such as face masks. The use of seaweed in the form of face mask on regular

17basis can smoothed and radiant the skin. One of the potential seaweed commodities to

18develop as a cosmetic product, a face mask is Caulerpa racemosa. This research aims to

19determine the effect of different concentration of seaweed Caulerpa racemosa on face mask.

20The main parameter of the study was antioxidant activity and the supporting parameters were

21Total Plate Count (TPC), acidity/pH, and moisture content. The results of this study indicate

22that different concentration of seaweed has a very significant effect (p<0,01) on moisture

23content and pH of face mask. Based on literature studies that were conducted, antioxidant
24activity on seaweed Caulerpa racemosa is relatively weak since it has IC50 more than 200

25ppm.

26

27KEYWORDS: Aquaculture Products, Caulerpa racemose, Cosmetic Products, Face Mask

28

29INTRODUCTION

30 Seaweed is currently one of the commodities that have high economic value due to its

31important role in daily products. Nowadays, the productivity of Indonesia’s seaweed

32cultivation is still limited to the food industry and as exported raw material used for

33commodities. Developing efforts on utilizing seaweed as a material in the food, cosmetic,

34pharmacy, medical, and agriculture industries are still needed (Kadi, 2004).

35 Seaweed can be used as added ingredients for non-consumable products in the

36cosmetic industry such as face masks. Mitsui (1997) states cosmetics generally contain

37mixtures of chemical compounds and not much comes from natural sources. Seaweed is one

38of aquaculture products that contains bio-active compounds because of chlorophyll and other

39color pigments.

40 One of the seaweed commodities that has potential to be developed into face masks is

41Caulerpa racemosa, also known as sea grape, are scattered all around Indonesia’s waters.

42Currently, the only way to retrieve it is by extracting, or to gather it from the shore. Hence, it

43has potential to be developed and cultivated (Mahmudah and Nursandi, 2004). This research

44is done based on that thought and the importance of developing non-consumable products,

45which are face masks, out of Caulerpa racemosa seaweed.

46

47MATERIALS AND METHODS

1
48 This research was done in the Chemical and Food Laboratory, Faculty of Fisheries

49and Marines Universitas Airlangga in November 2019 until February 2020. The production

50of face masks requires tools such as 250 mL and 100 mL beaker glass, blender, thermometer,

51analytic scale, stirring stick, mask pot, stove, and pan. Ingredients used in this research are

52Caulerpa racemosa and Eucheuma cottonii seaweed, emulgade, cetyl alcohol, paraffin oil,

53aquadest, titanium dioxide, metil paraben (nipagin), propil paraben (nipasol), citric acid,

54TEA, alcohol, perfume, milk, premium BA (Bolus Alba), and premium ACA (Anti Cracking

55Agent).

56 The procedure for production of the masks from seaweed can be generally broken

57down into these steps: dozing of seaweed, making the masks from seaweed formulation, and

58testing phase.

59 Caulerpa racemosa seaweed is cleaned and weighed, then mashed up with a ratio of

601:2 with aquadest until it as smooths as porridge. Meanwhile Eucheuma cottonii seaweed is

61mashed up with a ratio of 1:1 with aquadest. Production of seaweed face masks are done by

62heating up the oil phase (emulgade, cetyl alcohol, and paraffin oil) to 90oC, then heated the

63aquadest to 45oC and then titanium dioxide, nipagin, nipasol, and citric acid are added to it.

64The liquid phase is then stirred until homogenous and reaches 90oC. The process of mixing

65the oil phase into the liquid phase is done by adding the oil phase little by little into the liquid

66phase while being stirred using the stirring stick. And then filler (mashed up seaweed,

67premium BA, and premium ACA) is added. After the filler is added into the mixture, TEA,

68alcohol, perfume, and milk are added separately while stirring until homogenous. Stirring is

69stopped when seaweed face mask cream produced is smooth. And then the cream is packed

70into a sterilized lightproof mask pot (BBP2HP, 2015). These steps are then repeated for

71Eucheuma cottonii 10% (as control), and Caulerpa racemosa 5%, 10%, and 15%.

72Antioxidant activity test

73 The result for the antioxidant activity test in this research is retrieved from literature

74study on preceding research done by Luthfiyana et al., (2016), Dolorosa et al., (2017),

75Yanuarti et al., (2017), dan Luthfiyana et al., (2019) on antioxidant activity on seaweed

76Eucheuma cottonii and Aryudhani (2007), Maulida (2007), Nurjanah et al., (2012), dan Bagja

77(2015) on antioxidant activity on seaweed Caulerpa racemosa. This is because the unfinished

78research could not be continued due to COVID-19 pandemic.

79Total Plate Count (TPC) test

80 Total Plate Count test is done by weighing 10 g of seaweed mask solution and mixed

81it with physiologic salt. It is then diluted until 10-3. 1 mL sample are then inoculated in a

82sterilized petri dish. 10-15 mL sterilized media plate count agar (PCA) on 45-55°C are then

83poured into the petri dish. The petri dish is then moved and left to solidify. Incubation is done

84at room temperature for 48 hours. Number of colonies grown are counted as total microbes,

85referring to the method (SNI 19-2897-1992).

86Acidity level/pH test

87 Acidity level test is done with the use of a pH meter. Started on diluting 1 gram of

88mask solution with distilled water until it reaches 10 mL, then the pH meter was soaked in

89face mask solutions. The pH result will then show up on the screen. The mixture is

90homogenized by mixing it back and forth for 1 minute. The reading on pH meter is done after

915 minutes to ensure the number is stable (Froelich et al., 2017).

92Water content test

93 Water content measurement was conducted by removing water molecules by heating

94it in the vacuum oven. The oven used is conditioned on 95-100oC until the temperature is

95stable. The empty evaporating dish is put into the oven for minimal 2 hours and then moved

96into the desiccator for 30 minutes until it reaches room temperature and then the empty plate

4
 97is weighed as weight (A). Then, the sample test is weighed around 2gr into the evaporating

98dish (B) and put into the oven with the air pressure not more than 100 mmHg for around 5

99hours. Next, the evaporating dish is moved using a crucible tong into the desiccator for 30

100minutes, and then weighed (C). Then, the water content is measured using the equation from

101AOAC 2000.

B−C
102Water content = X 100 %
B−A

103Note:

104A = Weight of evaporating dish (gram)

105B = Weight of evaporating dish and sample before putting it into the oven (gram)

106C = Weight of evaporating dish and sample after putting it into the oven (gram)

107

108RESEARCH DESIGN

109 Experiment model used is Completely Randomized Design, which is 4 treatments

110repeated 5 times. Treatments use 4 doses of seaweed addition as the base for the face mask,

111which are:

112 1. P0: The use of E. cottonii seaweed porridge 10% (control)

113 2. P1: The use of C. racemosa seaweed porridge 5%

114 3. P2: The use of C. racemosa seaweed porridge 10%

115 4. P3: The use of C. racemosa seaweed porridge 15%

116 Face masks’ formulation data used in this research can be seen in Table 1.

117Table 1. Face mask formulation used in the research

Formulation
No. Ingredient
P0 P1 P2 P3
Oil Phase
1. Emulgade 6% 6% 6% 6%
2. Cetyl Alcohol 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5%
3. Paraffin Oil 2% 2% 2% 2%
 Liquid Phase
4. Aquadest 70% 70% 70% 70%
5. Titanium Dioxide 10% 10% 10% 10%
6. Metil Paraben 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2%
7. Propil Paraben 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2%
8. Citric Acid 2% 2% 2% 2%
9. TEA 2% 2% 2% 2%
10. Alcohol 2% 2% 2% 2%
11. Perfume 1% 1% 1% 1%
12. Milk 2% 2% 2% 2%
Filler
Seaweed porridge of
13. 10% - - -
E. cottonii
Seaweed porridge of
14. - 5% 10% 15%
C. racemose
15. Premium BA (Bolus Alba) 5% 5% 5% 5%
16. Premium ACA (Anti Cracking Agent) 1% 1% 1% 1%
118

119RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

120 The quality of seaweed-based masks can be seen in several testing parameters such as

121antioxidant activity, total plate count, acidity level/pH, and water content. Characteristics of a

122good face mask in accordance with the national standard are having pH level between 4,5-

1238,0; maximum water content of 70%; and maximum total plate count of 102.

124 Based on the literature study done, antioxidant activity on face mask solution with

125seaweed Eucheuma cottonii is IC50 (137,35±0,35 μg·mL-1) (Luthfiyana et al., 2019). E.

126cottonii has a moderate antioxidant activity, appropriate with the research of Luthfiyana et

127al., (2016), the value IC50 from E. cottonii extracted from Serang Banten (127,23 ± 2,77

128μg·mL-1) and categorized as having a moderate antioxidant activity. The value of antioxidant

129activity stated in IC50 contained in E. cottonii solution is 130,62 μg·mL-1 (Dolorosa et al.,

1302017) and then the result of antioxidant activity testing done by Yanuarti et al., (2017) on E.

131cottonii with ethyl acetate solvent is IC50 which is 193,76 μg·mL-1.

6
132 Preceding research on the antioxidant activity of Caulerpa sp. is reported by Maulida

133(2007) with a value of IC50 amounting to 356,13 μg·mL-1 (fresh) and 509,39 μg·mL-1 (dried).

134And then based on Bagja (2015), value IC 50 C. racemosa fresh and boiled are 452,37±8,29

135μg·mL-1 and 484,59±5,69 μg·mL-1 respectively, based on that value, antioxidant activity of C.

136racemosa fresh and boiled are categorized as weak because having IC50 value more than 200

137μg·mL-1. The antioxidant activity of that C. Racemosa is stronger if compared to Nurjanah et

138al., (2012) that states IC50 on fresh sea grapes is 527,73 μg·mL-1, and Aryudhani (2007) that

139states IC50 on C. racemosa is 41625,76 μg·mL-1.

140 Thus, based on the literature study that were conducted, it shows that E. cottonii

141seaweed has a moderate antioxidant activity level, with IC50 value around 150-200 μg·mL-1.

142Meanwhile, C. racemosa seaweed has a weak level of antioxidant activity, with IC 50 value

143around 300 μg·mL-1 fresh, and 500 μg·mL-1 when dried. This means that E. cottonii seaweed

144pulp has a higher antioxidant activity compared to fresh or dried C. racemosa seaweed.

145 The test result of Total Plate Count (TPC) on seaweed-based face masks can be seen

146in table 2.

147

148Table 2. Mean±SD of Total Plate Count on seaweed-based face masks

Treatment Total Plate Count

P0 < 10 colonies·g-1
P1 < 10 colonies·g-1
P2 < 10 colonies·g-1
P3 < 10 colonies·g-1
149Note: P0 (Control), P1 (Face mask with C. racemosa 5%), P2 (Face mask with C. racemosa 10%), P3
150(Face mask with C. racemosa 15%).
151
152 Total plate count is a general indicator that shows the product’s contamination level.

153The result of these testing shows uniform values in every treatment, which is < 10 colonies·g-1,

154appropriate with standard ISO/TS 4833 yr. 2003, meaning no colonies grew in the sample for

155four times dilution.

156 The acidity level/pH recorded is acidic with an average pH of 4,5-4,9. The result of

157pH testing on seaweed-based face masks can be shown in table 3.

158Table 3. Mean±SD acidity level/pH on seaweed-based face masks

Treatment pH
P0 4.5360±0.03782a
P1 4.7620 ±0.08815b
P2 4.8000 ±0.5244b
P3 4.9680 ±0.17297c
159Note: P0 (Control), P1 (Face mask with C. racemosa 5%), P2 (Face mask with C. racemosa 10%), P3 (Face
160mask with C. racemosa 15%). Different superscript on the same column shows a significant difference (p<0,01)
161
162 Analysis on pH values variants shows a significant difference between each treatment.

163This shows there’s an impact on each treatment. The pH level of seaweed C. racemosa based

164face masks’ solution is higher than the one with E. cottonii can be caused by the temperature

165condition of its habitat, supported by Yulius et al., (2017) who states that the higher the

166temperature, the higher CO2 absorbed for photosynthesis. Increase of photosynthesis activity

167resulted in lower pH. Result of pH analysis on face masks is appropriate to the standard set in

168SNI 16-6070-1999, which is pH for skin products should be around pH 4,5-8,0. Tranggono et

169al., (2007) reported that pH of the solution should follow the pH of the skin which is around

170pH 4,5-6,5.

171 The result for water content on seaweed-based face masks can be seen on Table 4.

172Table 4. Mean±SD water content on seaweed-based face masks

Treatment Water Content (%)

P0 56.1460 ±0.24906a
P1 68.1440 ±0.70038b
P2 68.2980 ±0.06933b
P3 69.8280 ±0.96360c
173Note: P0 (Control), P1 (Face mask with C. racemosa 5%), P2 (Face mask with C. racemosa 10%), P3 (Face
174mask with C. racemosa 15%). Different superscript on the same column shows a significant difference (p<0,01)
175
176 Water content is an important standard for the quality of a product, because water

177content can be a determining factor for a product’s shelf time. The higher water content on

178consumable or non-consumable products, the shelf life is relatively shorter (Bambang et al.,

8
1792015). Based on the testing analysis, the water content on the control treatment with E.

180cottonii is lower than the treatments with C. racemosa. The addition of aquadest on each face

181masks formulation is the same, which is 70%, but the addition of aquadest differs on the

182making of seaweed porridge. When making E. cottonii seaweed porridge, the ratio of

183aquadest to seaweed is 1:1. Meanwhile when making C. racemosa seaweed porridge, the

184ratio of aquadest to seaweed is 2:1, because the texture of C. racemosa isn’t smooth enough

185when using 1:1 ratio. This caused a high result of water content on P1, P2, P3 that used C.

186racemosa.

187

188CONCLUSIONS

189 From this research, it can be concluded that different concentrations of C. racemosa

190seaweed have an impact on the face mask solution. Face mask with C. racemosa seaweed’s

191concentration of 15% is the best compared to other concentrations. However, based on the

192antioxidant activity, face masks based on E. cottonii seaweed 10% is the best formulation.

193

194ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

195 This research article could not be done without the help of Laboratory Assistant in

196Airlangga University and Technical Implementation Unit Quality Testing and Development

197of Marine and Fisheries Products.

198

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