Instructions for Keeley DS-1 Mod

Location Mod Value

C1, C3, C5, C12, C13 0.1uf capacitor
C2, C8, C14, C9 1.0uf capacitor
C11 0.047uf capacitor
C7 220pf silver mica
R14 1.5K Resistor
R39 20K Resistor
R13 2.4K Resistor
D5 Red LED (Seeing Eye Mod)
D4 Red LED & 1n4148 Diode
D4, D5 47pf capacitor

*note* - A good rule of thumb is to check the pedal after every few
parts you change and also after every step. This will help you figure out
what’s wrong if your pedal stops working correctly. This is especially
important if you are not experienced with this type of thing. Also at the
end of this document are instructions on how to solder and desolder as
well as a troubleshooting guide. Be sure to refer to these as often as
needed.

Required Tools
Soldering Iron
Wire Stripper
Wire Cutters
Drill with 1/4" and 7/64" Drill Bits
Electrical tape
Phillips (Cross Tip) Screwdriver
Step 1 - Opening up the Pedal

1. Remove the 4 screws on the base plate

2. Remove base plate and plastic insulator.
3. Gently lift the circuit board up and back to get to the LED circuit board. Remove the
screw that holds the LED board to the top of the pedal.
Step 2 - LED Replacement

1. De-solder the red LED.

2. Remove the plastic riser from the red LED and slip it onto the new blue one.

*note* - LED’s are directional meaning they have a positive leg and a negative leg.
If you put it in backwards it will not light up. The positive leg will be longer than
the negative.

3. Solder the new LED to the board. Make sure that the longer, positive leg on the LED
is put in on the same side as the orange wire.
Step 3 - Installing the Mods

Here is a picture showing the locations of the mods on the board.

Location Mod Value
C1, C3, C5, C12, C13 0.1uf capacitor
C2, C8, C14, C9 1.0uf capacitor
C11 0.047uf capacitor
C7 220pf silver mica
R14 1.5K Resistor
R39 20K Resistor
R13 2.4K Resistor
D5 Red LED (Seeing Eye Mod)
D4 Red LED & 1n4148 Diode
D4, D5 47pf capacitor

The table above shows what replacement parts go where. Use the picture above it to
see where the locations are on the board. Do not worry about which way the parts
go in. None of the parts are directional except the ones that go to D4 and D5. D4
and D5 will be explained later.

*note* - Do not do the mods for D4 and D5 just yet. They will be
explained later. Everything else is fair game.
Step 4 - Diodes
This is where it gets a little complicated. On the next page are some diagrams to help you
wrap your head around the concept. Be sure to read all the way through this step and
check the pictures as well before you start.

*note* - included in this kit is a bright red LED (the clear one), and a diffused red
LED (this one is just like the on/off LED removed in the last step). This gives you
the option of using either the really bright LED for the seeing eye or the dimmer
diffused LED like Keeley uses. Use the other LED inside the pedal. It wont make
any difference to the tone which way you go.

*note* - the 1n4148 diodes and the LED’s are directional. The negative side of the
1n4148 diode is marked with a line (on the diode body). Also remember that the
shorter leg on an LED is the negative leg and the longer leg is positive.

1. To perform the Seeing Eye mod, first desolder and remove the stock diode from D5.
Next you will need to solder wires onto the legs of a red LED. This is so you can mount
the LED in the ‘o’ of tone when you get to Step 5. Be sure that you cut your wires long
enough for this. Having a little excess wire is much better than cutting your wire too
short. You will then connect the wires to D5. Look at the diagram below to see what I
mean.

2. For the Ultra mod first you will need to desolder and remove the stock diode from D4.
Next you will be wiring a switch that will toggle between
a) an LED that runs in series with the 1n4148 diode (this is the Ultra mode) and
b) the 1n4148 diode by itself.
The ‘Ultra mode’ LED will be on the inside of the pedal and wont be seen. When doing
the Ultra mod the positive side of the 1n4148 diode (the side without the line) will be
soldered onto the board. The negative side will be soldered to a wire going to the switch.
Again be sure that you don’t cut your wires too short. See the diagram below for a visual
on how it all wires up.

Wiring all this together is where you will most likely make a mistake on this mod. Be
careful and DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING!! If you wire it all up and the either of
the LED’s appear dim or don’t light up at all and you have a new battery in the pedal,
then you most likely put an LED or the 1n4148 diode in the wrong way.

3) Last thing is to solder the 47pf cap across the back of D5 and D4 as shown in the last
2 pictures.
You will notice that I have soldered the sites for D4 and D5 together and then stuck
the capacitor on top. This is how it is supposed to be. It will not short out or
damage your pedal.
Step 5 - Drilling the holes

1) First you need to drill a 3mm hole in the "o" on Tone for the seeing eye LED. You
will either want to use a 7/64’’ bit or a 1/8’’ bit. 7/64’’ is a bit tight. This is the size I
use, however you have to force it. The plus to this is that once you get it in, you don’t
have to worry about it falling out. The1/8’’ bit makes a bit larger of a hole. If you use the
1/8’’ bit you may have to glue it or tape it to get it to stay. I would advise against gluing
as it would make it difficult to take apart again. This hole is where you'll mount the D5
LED.

2) Now you need to drill a hole for your toggle switch. You will use a 1/4" bit for this
one. You will want to drill this hole so that it is just to the left of the “T” on Tone. Here
is an up close picture to show you just how it should look.

Step 6 - Reassembly

That’s It! Just put it all back together. Flip back to the disassembly step if you need to.
Be sure to not forget the plastic insulator. ENJOY!!!.
 Troubleshooting
There are several common problems that can occur. When you get no sound
or there is something wrong with the sound the most common issues are:

A missed solder joint

A poorly soldered joint
A crossover soldered joint
The battery is bad
The battery plug is loose
One of the wires broke
Polarized component put on backwards

Any of these problems are easily solvable. The case of a problem solder
joint requires that you carefully re-examine the rear of the circuit board. A
missed joint is easy to spot and the repair is obvious. A poorly soldered
joint requires a little closer examination, but is just as simple to remedy
once you have located the bad joint. A crossover joint means that you have
inadvertently linked one solder joint with another. Important note: some
joints are supposed to be linked, so use these photos as a guide in order to
be certain. If that’s the case, desolder the joint and resolder it correctly.

A power problem is easier still. Simply remove the battery and test it in
anything you know is good. As for the battery terminal being loose, just
squeeze together it using either your fingers or a pair of pliers.

If one of the wires breaks anywhere on the pedal it won’t work until it is re-
soldered. This is a simple matter of examining the pedal, gently pulling on
the wires until the broken one is found, and then de-soldering the place
where it was and re-soldering it again. Also check the wires to the input and
output jacks.
 How to De-solder
Tools Required:
Soldering Iron – 30 to 40 watts is just right.
De-soldering Braid – This is many thin strands of copper that absorb the
solder like a sponge.
To Begin: Place the braid against the solder joint and apply the soldering
iron to the braid, sandwiching the braid between the joint and the iron.

Hold it there until you see the braid absorb the solder, and when it does pull
back the iron. If there is still more solder on the joint repeat the process
until you are reasonably sure you can remove the old part. Also, as the braid
fill with solder you’ll need to trim the used piece with scissors or wire
cutters as needed so you’ll have fresh piece for each joint.
 How to Solder
First thing is that after you insert a new part through the holes in the board,
be sure to bend the legs over on the back of the board to hold it in place.
Check the picture to see what I mean. Now place the iron against the solder
joint and the part being soldered on. It’s important to allow several seconds
before applying the solder so that the parts heat up. This will ensure that the
solder will stick. Apply the solder where the iron and the board meet.
When the solder melts it will fill the joint, and when it does pull back the
iron & solder. Make sure the joint is completely covered like the joints
around it. Periodically wipe the soldering iron tip on a damp cloth to
remove excess flux.