RAMPAS DIY - DiySkate

WALLRIDE WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES
The wood and hardware can be found at most home improvement stores. Sometimes you can
find the steel there as well, I know my local Home Depot carries the coping and threshold
material.
If not, you can search the internet for steel fabricators or salvage steel. Personally, I've begun
buying my steel from MetalsDepot.com because of their very quick shipping and good prices. I'm
not affiliated with them in any way, I just like them and their product.
If this ramp is going to stay outside, it needs to be protected from the elements. A good place to
start is with pressure treated lumber, paint and a tarp. You may want to invest in a composite
material for the surface too. Such as Skate Lite or Ramp Armor.
Be extra careful when working with treated lumber though, the chemicals used to treat the wood
contain a poisonous pesticide.
Materials needed
● 5 - 4x8, 3/8" plywood
● 1 - 4x8, 3/4" plywood
● 2 - 4x8, 1/4" masonite
● 18 - 2x4's, 8' long
● 1 - 5lb box of 1 5/8" screws
● 2 - 8'x1'-3x1/8" steel plate
Tools needed
● Tape Measure & Pencil
● Circular & jig saw
● Drill w/ philips bit
● Assorted drill bits
● Chalkline
● Clamps
Approximate Cost: $200
Easy | | | | | Difficult
BUILD IT
Gather all your materials. Start with the 2x4's. Cut 7 pieces at 7'-10 1/2 in length. Set them aside.
Below is a cut list referencing what else you will need and it's size.
PLYWOOD LAYOUT

The plywood layout diagram shows you where to cut the sides and their measurements.
MAKING THE 2X4 COMPASS
Using an 2x4 that is 5'-0 or longer, drill a hole that's the diameter of a pencil about 2" in from the
end.
Then measure from the hole you just drilled, out the distance of the transition radius. In this case,
4'-0. Place a screw there but don't go all the way through the 2x4 yet.
MARKING THE PLYWOOD
By placing a piece of your 3/8" plywood above your 3/4" sheet, you can use the 2x4 compass by
attaching the screw to the plywood where shown below. Guide your pencil with the 2x4 compass
to clearly draw the transition radius on the 3/4" ply.
After you've drawn the transition for the top piece, move the 3/8" ply below the 3/4" sheet and
place the 2x4 compass where shown, drawing the transition for the bottom portion of the ramp.
Since you'll need two of each transition pieces, you can use the one's that you've drawn to trace
onto the other. But first you'll need to make the notch cuts so the top and bottom pieces fit
together properly.
LOCATING THE NOTCH
To locate the notch for the bottom piece, measure out 1'-0 3/8 and mark the plywood. Now
measure out 1'-6 5/8. With a straight edge, draw a line from each point for the angled notch
(which should be 8").
For the top piece, you'll need to measure up 2'-2 1/4 and mark the plywood. Now measure up 2'-7
1/4. Finally, measure out 1'-0 3/8 and mark this as well as shown below. With a straight edge,
draw a line from the final two points to create the angled notch (which should be 8").
I hope this wasn't too confusing. But it's necessary to cut the pieces like this so you can get both
sides out of one 3/4" piece of ply. That and because the ramp is taller than 4'-0.
CUT THE TRANSITION
Carefully cut the transitions you have laid out using the lines you just drew. Once cut, you can
use these transition as your template to trace onto the plywood and cut out the other sides.
FRAMING THE BOTTOM
Frame the bottom using three of the 7'-10 1/2 long 2x4's for the front, back and top as shown
above.
FRAMING THE TOP
Frame the top using four of the 7'-10 1/2 long 2x4's for the front, back and top as shown above.
ASSEMBLING THE SECTIONS
Clamp the bottom section to the top section and screw them together using plenty of 2 1/2"
screws.
Any clamps will do, I just like to use Quick Clamps.
FRAMING THE SIDES
Attach the remaining eleven 2x4's spacing them 8" apart, on center except where noted.
You will want to double up the 2x4's as shown. This is where the 3/8" plywood seam will meet
and the double 2x4's allow a larger surface area for attaching the two sheets.

COVERING THE RAMP
Starting where the first set of double 2x4's are, attach the 3/8" ply and work your way down the
ramp. Then place another full sheet next to the first and finish off the first layer with a piece that's
1'-6 by 8'-0.

ATTACHING THE SECOND LAYER
Attach a piece of 3/8" that is 2'-0 by 8'-0 and place it at the bottom of the ramp, overlapping the
bottom layer by about 1 3/4". Then a full sheet and finally a piece that's 3'-9 1/4, it too should
overlap the layer underneath it by 1 3/4".

ATTACHING THE MASONITE
It's best to cover this ramp with masonite and a steel threshold. Place a full sheet of masonite 1'-1
1/4 up from the start of the second layer then a sheet that's cut to 3'-5 3/4".
Now take two pieces of 1/8" steel at 8'-0 by 1'-3 and attach them to the ramp flush against the
masonite.
FINISHED
Find a smooth wall behind an abandoned warehouse and see how high you can get. This wall
ride isn't going to be the lightest ramp around, so you might want to scope out a good spot before
you start.
QUARTERPIPE 90CM WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES
material.
BUILD IT
Gather all your materials. Start with the 2x4's. Cut 13 pieces at 3'-10 1/2 in length (you will get 2
out of each 8' long 2x4). Set them aside. Below is a cut list referencing what else you will need
and it's size.
PLYWOOD LAYOUT
Above you will find a plywood layout illustration, it depicts the sides and deck of the quarter pipe
being cut from a single sheet of 3/4" plywood.
DRAWING THE TRANSITION
Theres a few different ways to do this, I'm going to explain it the way I do it. Grab an 8" long 2x4.
On one end, drill a hole the diameter of a pencil (about 3/8"). Then measure from the hole you
just drilled, out the distance of the transition radius. In this case, 6'-0. Place a screw there but
don't go all the way through the 2x4 yet.
ake your 3/4" plywood and lay it on a fairly level surface. Grab another sheet of plywood, your
3/8" sheet should do, you might have to place some scrap wood under it to bring it up to the level
of the 3/4". Place it next to the 3/4" plywood, long end to long end, touching.
With the 2x4 you made earlier, screw the screw into the 3/8" plywood where shown above. Now
you want to draw a radius using the 2x4 to guide your pencil until you have the transition radius
clearly visible on the 3/4" sheet of plywood. Once done, measure up 2'-11 1/4 and out 5'-10 3/4
from the bottom left side to complete drawing the transition.
CUT THE TRANSITION
Very carefully cut on the lines you drew for the transition. The top layer for the deck comes out of
this 3/4" ply also, so try not to get too crazy with the jig saw.
Once cut, use this transition as your template to trace onto the plywood and cut out the other
side.
FRAMING THE BOTTOM
Your done with the hardest part, now it's time to frame the quarter pipe. Start by attaching the
bottom and top 2x4's as shown.
FRAMING THE CENTER
Take the remaining 2x4's and frame the deck and riding surface portion by placing the 2x4's 8" on
center except where noted.
BUYING THE COPING
To find the steel, look up "steel yards", "structural steel" or "steel fabricators" and so on in the
phone book.
The actual size of the steel pipe that you are looking for is 2 3/8" (60.33mm) outside diameter.
With a wall thickness of 7/32". This pipe is known by steel shops as...
● 2" OD, Schedule 80, black steel pipe
Some steel shops are picky about what it's called so use the above name if they seem confused.
You can also use schedule 40 steel pipe (5/32" wall) as it is cheaper and lighter, but it may
become dented. Schedule 80 pipe on the other hand will not dent under normal skateboarding
use.
Do not use PVC pipe (plastic) or electrical conduit, if you want it to last.
DRILLING THE COPING
There are more than a few ways to attach the coping to the quarter pipe. In my opinion, screws
are the only way. Although I came across another method a while back where you can attach the
coping with hook bolts (clothesline bolts) that looks promising.
I have still never used this method but I'm intrested in trying it out. More on that later. For now
we're using screws.
Drill a 3/8" hole on the outside of the steel coping. Now drill a 3/16" hole on the inside of the
coping making sure they line up.
ATTACH THE COPING
Once drilled, place the coping in the notch you cut out earlier. By feeding a screw through the
outside 3/8" hole, place it into the 3/16" inner hole. This can be tricky but with a little patience
you'll get it.
With a drill or screwdriver, screw it down and move on to the next pre drilled hole. You should
have a screw on each end and one in the middle.
By the way, don't worry about the holes interfering with your skating. You'll never feel them,
guaranteed (unless they are larger than 3/8").
ATTACHING THE DECK
Take the remaining 3/4" plywood, cut two pieces at 4' by 11 1/4" and screw them to the top of the
ramp putting screws about a foot apart in each 2x4.
COVERING THE RAMP
TAt this time get your 3/8" plywood and cut out a piece 5'-6 by 4'-0. Start at the top and place the
screws about a foot apart working your way down the ramp. Make sure you hit the studs when
your attaching it. You can use a chalkline or a 2x4 to mark a line across the ramp to be sure.
Once the bottom layer is attached, cut another piece of 3/8" plywood to 5'-9 by 4'-0. This will be
your second layer and you will want to attach it in the same way as the first making sure you hit
the studs and the screws about 8" apart.
With both of the 3/8" sheets fully screwed down, cut a piece of masonite 4'-6 by 4'-0 and attach it
the same way you did the last two layers. Only this time you will want to countersink your screws
a little bit using a countersink bit or a 3/8" drill bit. This allows the surface to be as smooth as
possible and keeps your body from being ripped to shreds during a fall.
With the masonite on, you will be able to check the coping placement. I prefer the coping to stick
out 3/8". If you want to change it, remove the coping and place wood shims where it meets the
2x4's.
ATTACHING THE THRESHOLD
If constructed properly, you should have about 1'-6 between the masonite and the ground. This is
where you place the 4' x 1'-6, 3/16" thick sheet metal or 1/4" plastic.
Drill a 3/16" hole about 2 inches in from each end on both sides and one in the middle. After the
holes are drilled, countersink each by using the 3/8" drill bit to drill down just enough so the screw
heads are flush.
The steel threshold is also availabe at steel fabrication shops. You may be able to find the steel at
home improvement stores too. They don't have the best selection, but it might be enough to get
you by.

CHICAGO BARRIER WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES
material.
Materials needed
● 4 - 4x8, 3/8" plywood

● 1 - 4x8, 3/4" plywood
● 7 - 2x4's, 8' long
● 1 - 2x6's, 8' long
● 1 - 2x2x3/16" angle iron
Tools needed

● Chalkline

BUILD IT
PLYWOOD LAYOUT

The plywood layout diagram above shows you where to cut the sides and their measurements.
end.
CUT THE TRANSITION
Carefully cut the transition using the lines you just drew. Once cut, you can use this transition as
your template to trace onto the plywood and cut out the other side.
MARKING THE PLYWOOD
With the 2x4 you just made, screw the screw into the plywood where shown below. You will need
an additional piece of wood to attach the 2x4 to as it's location is on the edge of the 4x8 sheet of
plywood.
Now guide your pencil with the 2x4 compass to clearly draw the transition radius on the 3/4" ply.
Once done, take one of your 3/8" sheets and place it on the left side as shown. Use this piece of
ply to attach your 2x4 compass to and draw out the other side of the transition the same way as
you did the right side using the dimensions provided above.
Notice how the same 2x4 compass allows you to have two seemingly different transitions on
either side just by changing where you draw the transition from. The more "mellow" side will act
more like a quarter pipe but is plenty steep to challenge the best of us.
FRAMING THE SIDES
Frame the chicago barrier using three of the 7'-10 1/2 long 2x4's for the top and bottom as shown
.

FRAMING THE CENTER
Take three of the remaining 2x4's and frame the steep portion of the barrier by placing them at 9"
on center. Then take the last six 2x4's and put them at 7 1/2" apart on center making sure that
you double up the 2x4's for the plywood seam near the top as shown.

COVERING THE RAMP
The steep side will need a layer of 3/8" plywood that is 2'-11 by 8'-0. The mellow side takes a
sheet that is 4'-0 by 8'-0 and a piece at the top that is 7 1/2" by 8'-0. Using 1 5/8" screws, start at
the top and place the screws about a foot apart working your way down the ramp. Make sure you
hit the studs when your attaching them. Use a chalkline or 2x4 to mark it.
The next 3/8" layers and optional masonite on the mellow side are a bit more complex. I wrote it
out and no matter how I worded it, it sounded harder than it actually is.
So here's the easy explanation. You can put angle iron or steel pipe on top for coping. If you
choose angle iron, you will want to start the second layer a couple inches down from the top so
the angle iron will fit properly. If you choose steel pipe, you can run the second layer all the way
to the top. Either way, make the plywood on the mellow side a couple inches longer at the bottom
to meet the ground.

Just like the other quarter pipes on this site, It's best to cover them with masonite and a steel
threshold. Stop the masonite in the middle of the last 2x4 so the steel threshold has something
solid to attach to.

ATTACHING THE ANGLE IRON
With the 3/8" ply screwed down, take two, 2x2x3/16" angle iron at 8' long and attach them to the
ramp.
The 3/8" ply will stick out a little bit more than the angle iron unless you place a piece of 1/4"
plywood behind the angle iron to build it up. This is completely up to you.
You can also add a piece of 1/4" plywood between the two angle iron pieces to make it flush all
the way across, but again, this is optional.
As with all steel that you attach to a ramp, drill a 3/16" hole and countersink to allow the screw
head to be flush with the ramp. You will need 3 screws in each leg of each angle iron. Twelve
total or six per angle iron, similar to the grind ledge.

ATTACHING THE STEEL PIPE
If you chose to use steel pipe as coping instead, it's actually a bit easier than the angle iron. Just
drill out four holes just like a quarter pipe and screw the pipe down snug.

FINISHED
There you go, your very own Chicago Barrier.
I'm going to have to make sure Kevin builds this one, because it looks like it would be a blast to
skate. Now I just gotta figure out which type of coping would be the most fun.

BANK RAMP WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES
material.
LUMBER CUT LIST
Gather your materials. Start with the 2x4's and 2x6's. Using the cut list below, cut the lumber and
set it aside. It's a good idea to keep everything separate and mark them so you don't mix them
up.

PLYWOOD CUT LIST
Cut the 3/4" plywood for the sides by following the cut list below. Both sides are identical. Also cut
two 4' x 6" pieces for the top of the bank as shown.
I like to radius the bottom of the skateboard bank ramp for a less abrupt transition from flat to
bank. Using a 2x4 with a screw and pencil as your compass, draw the radius as shown in the
illustration below.
Once drawn and cut, use this side as your template to draw and cut the other side.

BUILD IT
Start by building the frame with one 2x4 @ 7'-10 1/2, one 2x6 @ 7'-10 1/2 and four 2x4's @ 3'-2
1/4, as shown below.
FRAMING THE SIDES
Take both of the sides you cut earlier and attach the frame you just built to it, with the 2x6 on top.
Also attach the front 2x4 at this time.

FRAMING THE SIDES CONTINUED
Now attach the ten 2x6's and two 2x4's to the sides spacing them 8" apart, on center except
where noted below.
You will also want to double up the 2x6 about 4'-0 down from the top. This is where the 3/8"
plywood seam will will meet and the double 2x6's allow a larger surface area for attaching the two
sheets.
PLACING THE SUPPORT

Take the remaining two 5'-4 1/2 long 2x4's and attach them to the plywood sides under the 2x6's.
These skateboard bank ramps take an enormous amount of abuse and need extra supports to
cope with that abuse.
The supports relieve stress from the screws holding up the 2x6's and the 2x6's are less likely to
break than 2x4's, although I have seen it happen.
ATTACH THE PLYWOOD - TOP
You're done framing the skateboard bank ramp, the next step is to take the two 4'-0 x 6" x 3/4"
strips you cut earlier and place them on the top, 2x6 support.

ATTACH THE PLYWOOD - BOTTOM LAYER
Take a sheet of 3/8" and attach it to the framed bank, pushing it flush against the 3/4" strips on
top. You want to screw from the top down placing a screw every foot or so making sure you
screw into the 2x6's.
Next, take another 3/8" sheet, cut it to 3'-9 1/2 x 8' and push it flush against the previous 3/8"
sheet to finish the bottom layer. Again screw from the top down, placing the screws about a foot
apart.

ATTACHING THE PLYWOOD - MIDDLE LAYER & MASONITE
Next take two more sheets of the 3/8" plywood, lay them cross grain to the bottom layers and
screw them in place using the same screw pattern as before.
Once the 3/8" plys are attached, cut a strip of masonite 6" x 8'-0 and cover the 3/4" ply on the top.
Now lay a full 4' x 8' sheet of masonite on the 3/8" ply surface, pushing it flush against the
masonite stip on top. Unlike the 3/8", you'll need to countersink the masonite with a 3/8" drill bit or
a countersink bit.
Then, just like the screws in the previous plys, you will want to start at the top and work your way
down, except this time put the screws about 6" to 8" apart instead of a foot.
Now attach a 2'-10 1/4 x 8'-0 sheet of masonite flush against the other sheet.

FINISH AND SKATE IT
Last, attach the 1'-0 wide x 28'-0 x 3/16" thick sheet metal to the bank (Depending on how hard
you are on the structure, you may be able to get away with thinner steel - down to 14 gauge or
so). Drill five, 3/16" evenly spaced holes then countersink the screw locations with a 3/8" drill bit
ensure the screws are flush.
his ramp is a beast and should have no problem accommodating skaters and bikers alike. I plan
on drawing up a suitable flyout launch for the bikers too, but I have a few things to get to before
then.
Until then, enjoy your new bank ramp.

JERSEY BARRIER WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES
material.
Materials needed
● 4 - 4x8, 3/8" plywood
● 1 - 4x8, 3/4" plywood
● 7 - 2x4's, 8' long
● 1 - 2x6's, 8' long
● 1 - 2x2x3/16" angle iron
Tools needed
● Chalkline
BUILD IT
PLYWOOD LAYOUT

The plywood layout diagram above shows you where to cut the sides and their measurements.
end.
CUT THE TRANSITION
Carefully cut the transition using the lines you just drew. Once cut, you can use this transition as
your template to trace onto the plywood and cut out the other side.
MARKING THE PLYWOOD
With the 2x4 you just made, screw the screw into the plywood where shown below.
Now guide your pencil with the 2x4 compass to clearly draw the transition radius on the 3/4" ply.
Once done, take one of your 3/8" sheets and place it on the left side as shown. Use this piece of
ply to attach your 2x4 compass to and draw out the other side of the transition the same way as
you did the right side using the dimensions provided above.
FRAMING THE SIDES
Frame the jersey barrier using three of the 7'-10 1/2 long 2x4's for the top and bottom as shown.

FRAMING THE CENTER
Take the remaining four 2x4's and frame the riding surface portion by placing the 2x4's at 9" on
center as shown.
Also place the 2x6 below the top 2x4 as seen in the illustration. It should work out to 9" down
from the top, but if it's not exact, don't sweat it. Just make the 2x6 flush with both sides (or close)
and attach it to the sides.
Also, a 2x6's is not 2" by 6". It is actually only 2" by 5 1/2". Kind of like a 2x4 being only 2" by 3
1/2". Just a reminder so you don't wonder why it's not fitting right
COVERING THE RAMP
Take both of the 2'-11 wide 3/8" plywood sheets and attach them to each side of the barrier.
Using 1 5/8" screws, start at the top and place the screws about a foot apart working your way
down the jersey barrier. Make sure you hit the studs when your attaching them. Use a chalkline or
2x4 to mark it.
Once complete, take the 2'-10 wide 3/8" plywood sheets and attach them to each side just as you
did the previous layer. You will want the bottom of the 3/8" ply to be flush with the ground. The
plywood is 1" shorter than the first to allow the angle iron to fit on the ramp.
ATTACHING THE ANGLE IRON
With the 3/8" ply screwed down, take two, 2x2x3/16" angle iron at 8' long and attach them to the
ramp.
The 3/8" ply will stick out a little bit more than the angle iron unless you place a piece of 1/4"
plywood behind the angle iron to build it up. This is completely up to you.
You can also add a piece of 1/4" plywood between the two angle iron pieces to make it flush all
the way across, but again, this is optional.
As with all steel that you attach to a ramp, drill a 3/16" hole and countersink to allow the screw
head to be flush with the ramp. You will need 3 screws in each leg of each angle iron. Twelve
total or six per angle iron, similar to the grind ledge.

FINISHED
And that is all there is to it. You can paint it and add a couple and hand hold holes on each end,
but other than that, you are finished.
This jersey barrier can be made steeper or more mellow by adjusting where you draw the
transition or changing the transition radius altogether.
Also, add a kicker for an instant grind ledge / flat rail.

KICKER WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES
material.
BUILD IT
Gather all your materials. Start with the 2x4's. Cut 10 pieces at 3'-10 1/2 in length (you will get 2
out of each 8' long 2x4). Set them aside. Below is a cut list referencing what else you will need
and it's size.
CUT THE SIDES
You can obviously make your skateboard kicker ramp any size you want. However, for this set of
plans you will need to cut the two sides to 1'-6 x 5'-6 as shown above.
FRAMING THE BOTTOM
Attach the bottom 2x4 cross members as shown

FRAMING THE TOP
Now attach the eight 2x4 cross members, 8" on center starting from the bottom.
ATTACHING THE PLYWOOD
Cover the framed skateboard kicker ramp with a piece of 3/4" thick plywood that is 4' wide by 6'-2
long. The plywood should just touch the ground and go to the top of the kicker.
Attach the six pieces that are 1'-0 in length to the bottom of the box like shown here. Put four
screws in each piece, two through each side.
ATTACHING THE STEEL
If constructed properly, you should have about 10" between the masonite and the ground. This is
where you place the 4' x 10", 3/16" thick sheet metal or 1/4" plastic.
Drill a 3/16" hole about 2 inches in from each side and one in the middle. After the holes are
drilled, countersink each by using the 3/8" drill bit to drill down just enough so the screw heads
are flush The steel threshold is also available at steel fabrication shops. You may be able to find
the steel at home improvement stores too. They don't have the best selection, but it might be
enough to get you by.
3 FEET MINI RAMP WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES
material.
Materials needed
● 53 - 2x4's, 8' long
● 4 - 4x8, 3/4" plywood
● 10 - 4x8, 3/8" plywood
● 5 - 4x8, 1/4" masonite
● 1 - 2 3/8" x 16' steel pipe
● 1 - 25lb Box, 1 5/8" screws
● 1 - 25lb Box, 2 1/2" screws
● 8 - clothesline bolts
Tools needed
● Hammer and clamps
● Combination square
● Drill w/ Drill Bits
● Chalk Line
● Friend
CHOOSING A LOCATION FOR YOUR MINI RAMP
Ideally, a level driveway or concrete pad would be the best spot for your mini ramp. But ramps
tend to get pretty big and backyards and fields end up being the only place large enough for
them.
If you're placing your mini ramp on terra firma (earth) you'll need to make footings, or pads that
the half pipe will sit on. You can do this similar to the way you build a deck for a house, with
concrete blocks.
I've written a separate page on ramp foundations, because it's more than can be covered in a
paragraph.
BUILD IT
Below is a cut list referencing what you will need and it's size.
TRANSITION LAYOUT DIAGRAM
Gather two sheets of 3/4" plywood for the side templates. One sheet of 3/4" ply will provide two
sides.
Use CDX or better grade plywood. Particle board is not acceptable for any skate structure,
period.
CUT THE TRANSITION
With a jig saw, very carefully cut on the lines you drew for the transition. Once cut, you can use
this as your template to trace the three remaining transition sides.
You'll only need two 3/4" sides for each 8' ramp section. Most ramps are made in 4' sections but
this ramp is small enough to get away with an 8' span. Cut the templates and set them aside.
DRAWING THE TRANSITION
Take an 8' long 2x4 and on one end, drill a hole the diameter of a pencil (about 3/8"). Then
measure from the hole you just drilled, the length of the transition radius. In this case, 6'-0. Place
a screw there but don't go all the way through the 2x4 yet.
Take your 3/4" plywood and lay it on a fairly level surface. Grab another sheet of plywood and
place it next to the 3/4" plywood as shown below.
With the 2x4 you made earlier, screw the screw into the top piece of plywood where shown
above. Now you want to draw a radius using the 2x4 to guide your pencil until you have the
transition radius clearly visible on the 3/4" sheet of plywood.
Once drawn, measure up 2'-11 1/4 from the bottom left side. Using a straight edge, mark this and
the notch for the coping to complete the transition. The notch for the coping is 1 1/4" by 1 3/4".
FRAMING THE TRANSITION

Gather thirty four, 7'-10 1/2 long 2x4's for the transition sections. Each 8' wide transition section
requires seventeen 2x4's. This includes the deck portion as well.
Take five of those 7'-10 1/2 long 2x4's and start framing this section by placing two 2x4's at the
back, one at the front and two on the top next to the coping notch as shown above.
ADDING SUPPORTS
Place two 2'-9 long 2x4's under the deck 2x4's where shown below. Use about eight, 1 5/8"
screws to attach each one.
These add extra support for the deck and need to be placed on each side in both transition
sections.

FRAMING THE TRANSITION CONTINUED
Now attach twelve 7'-10 1/2 long 2x4's, 8" on center unless noted otherwise as shown below.
Once this has been done, repeat the process for the second transition section and set them aside
for now.
The 2x4's that are doubled in the lower portion of the riding surface are necessary to create a
larger surface area for the seam of the first 3/8" plywood layer to.

FRAMING THE FLAT BOTTOM
Gather fifteen 7'-9 long 2x4's for the flat bottom supports. You'll also need two, 8' long 2x4's for
the sides of the flat bottom section.
Attach the 7'-9 long 2x4's to the 8' long 2x4's, 8" on center as shown below to finish the flat
section.
Pre drill the screw locations at the ends of the 2x4 with a 3/16" drill bit to keep the wood from
splitting.
Also, as with the transition, the 2x4's must be doubled where shown for the first layer of 3/8"
plywood.

PLACING THE RAMP
Now that all of the framing is done, the sections can be attached to one another. Hopefully you
have the ramps final location all squared away too. If not you can learn more about ramp
foundations here.
Start by having a friend help you move one transition section into place. Then place the flat
bottom section next to the transition. Finally, place the last transition section next to the flat
bottom section.
Once all of the sections are in place, make sure that they are level and fit together properly. Then
double check that they are fitting together correctly. After you have done this, clamp the sections
together to make sure they aren't going anywhere. I use quick clamps, but most any clamps will
work.
ASSEMBLING THE RAMP
If your mini ramp is on a concrete slab, you can attach the transition and flat bottom sections
together using 2 1/2" screws. Screw them together from each side of the bottom with about six
screws per side.
If you are placing your ramp on footings or concrete blocks, drill four equally spaced 5/8" holes.
Now bolt the sections together using four 1/2" bolts with nuts and washers per side, as shown
below.
BUYING THE COPING
To find the steel, look up "steel yards", "structural steel"

or "steel fabricators" and so on in the phone book.
The actual size of the steel pipe that you are looking for is 2 3/8" (60.33mm) outside diameter.
With a wall thickness of 7/32". This pipe is known by steel shops as...
2" OD, Schedule 80, black steel pipe

Some steel shops are picky about what it's called so use the above name if they seem confused.
You can also use schedule 40 steel pipe (5/32" wall) as it is cheaper and lighter, but it may
become dented. Schedule 80 pipe on the other hand will not dent under normal skateboarding
use.
Do not use PVC pipe (plastic) or electrical conduit, if you want it to last.
CUTTING AND DRILLING THE COPING
Cut your steel pipe into two pieces at 8' long with a steel
cutting blade (carbide blade) and miter saw or circular saw.
Now we need to attach the steel coping to the ramp. I am going to cover two of the most common
methods.
The first method being screws. If done properly, screws will hold the coping secure for the life of
your ramp. Also, you will rarely if ever notice the holes while skating the ramp.
Start by marking the pipe about 3" in from the ends and then about every two feet in between.
Now drill a 3/8" on the outside and a 3/16" hole on the inside of the pipe.
ATTACH THE COPING W/ SCREWS
Once drilled, place the coping in the notch on the mini ramp. Rotate the pipe so that the screws
will hit the 2x4 close to the center. Now place the screws in the holes and screw the pipe down
snug.
After you're done, go back with a screwdriver and make sure the screws are screwed down tight.
ATTACH THE COPING W/ BOLTS
To attach the coping to the mini ramp with bolts, you will need to drill
holes in the 2x4 behind where the coping will sit. Mark the 2x4 about an 1 1/2" down from the top,
6" in from each end. Also mark two in the middle at 2'-4 apart. Drill a 3/8" hole in each marked
location at a slight downward angle.
Once the 2x4 has been drilled, place the coping in the notch on the mini ramp. Use the previously
drilled holes to mark the coping. Remove the coping and drill the 3/8" holes where you have just
indicated.
Feed a hook bolt into the holes you drilled and place the coping in the notch on the mini ramp,
while lining up the bolts with the holes in the 2x4. Tighten the bolts down secure to the 2x4 using
nuts and washers.
The bolt at the bottom of the illustration on the right is also known as a clothesline hook and is the
most common for this application. However, hook bolts come in a variety a shapes and sizes.
You can use almost any of them as long as they are about 3" in length and have a 3/8" diameter.
COVERING THE DECKS
Now that you have the coping all taken care of, it's time to cover your ramp. Start with the decks.
Cut two sheets of 3/4" plywood down to 2'-9 wide. Attach a sheet to each deck portion of the
ramp with 1 5/8" screws. Space the screws about a foot apart from each other on the studs
below.
You must hit the 2x4 supports with the screws. A good way to accomplish this is with a chalkline
or straight edge and pencil. Use the screws on the sides of the ramp as guides for the 2x4
supports.
SECOND LAYER OF PLYWOOD
On the second layer, you don't want the plywood seams to be in the same place as the bottom
layer. So cut a sheet of 3/8" plywood in half and attach it to the ramp the same way as the others.
Keep adding full sheets until you reach the other side and the coping. Cut the last ply to fit if
necessary.
COVERING THE RAMP
Place a sheet of 3/8" plywood on the ramp. Push it flush against the coping and begin attaching
the ply with 1 5/8" screws. Start at the top and work your way down, going from left to right like
reading a book. You may need someone to help you hold the ply in place while you get the first
few screws started.
As with the deck, mark the location of the 2x4 supports and space the screws about a foot apart.
Next, take another sheet of 3/8" plywood, push it flush against the previous sheet and attach it in
the same way placing the screws about a foot apart.
Once you've attached the first two pieces, do the same to the other side of the ramp leaving the
center exposed as shown above.
The idea is, you shouldn't have to cut the center sheet for it to fit. The space should work out to
four feet. But if you do have to cut the sheet, it's much easier to figure it out here than on the
transition.
ATTACHING THE FINAL LAYER

Start with a full sheet of masonite and press it flush against the coping just like the first layer.
Keep adding sheets until you reach the other side. Once again, cut the last one to fit if necessary.
The coping should stick out 3/8" from riding surface. If it sticks out too much, place wood shims
under the masonite, near the coping to raise the masonite. Shims are available at your local
hardware store.
The main difference with masonite is that you need to countersink the screw hole locations before
you screw the masonite down. You can do this with a countersink bit, or a 3/8" drill bit and a
steady hand.
You also will need to space the masonite sheets about 1/16" to 1/8" from each other. This keeps
them from bubbling up when they expand due to temperature change. I use pennies to space
them.

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WALLRIDE WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES

Approximate Cost: $200

MAKING THE 2X4 COMPASS

MARKING THE PLYWOOD

LOCATING THE NOTCH

FRAMING THE BOTTOM

ASSEMBLING THE SECTIONS

FRAMING THE SIDES

COVERING THE RAMP

ATTACHING THE SECOND LAYER

ATTACHING THE MASONITE

FRAMING THE BOTTOM

● 2" OD, Schedule 80, black steel pipe

DRILLING THE COPING

CHICAGO BARRIER WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES

● 4 - 4x8, 3/8" plywood

● Tape Measure & Pencil

Approximate Cost: $180

MAKING THE 2X4 COMPASS

CUT THE TRANSITION

MARKING THE PLYWOOD

FRAMING THE SIDES

FRAMING THE CENTER

COVERING THE RAMP

ATTACHING THE MASONITE

ATTACHING THE ANGLE IRON

ATTACHING THE STEEL PIPE

There you go, your very own Chicago Barrier.

LUMBER CUT LIST

PLYWOOD CUT LIST

Also attach the front 2x4 at this time.

FRAMING THE SIDES CONTINUED

PLACING THE SUPPORT

ATTACH THE PLYWOOD - TOP

ATTACH THE PLYWOOD - BOTTOM LAYER

ATTACHING THE PLYWOOD - MIDDLE LAYER & MASONITE

FINISH AND SKATE IT

Until then, enjoy your new bank ramp.

Approximate Cost: $175

MAKING THE 2X4 COMPASS

CUT THE TRANSITION

MARKING THE PLYWOOD

FRAMING THE SIDES

COVERING THE RAMP

ATTACHING THE ANGLE IRON

Also, add a kicker for an instant grind ledge / flat rail.

FRAMING THE BOTTOM

Attach the bottom 2x4 cross members as shown

ATTACHING THE MASONITE

Approximate Cost: $500

CHOOSING A LOCATION FOR YOUR MINI RAMP

CUT THE TRANSITION

DRAWING THE TRANSITION

FRAMING THE TRANSITION

FRAMING THE TRANSITION CONTINUED

FRAMING THE FLAT BOTTOM

PLACING THE RAMP

ASSEMBLING THE RAMP

To find the steel, look up "steel yards", "structural steel"

2" OD, Schedule 80, black steel pipe

CUTTING AND DRILLING THE COPING

ATTACH THE COPING W/ SCREWS

COVERING THE RAMP

ATTACHING THE FINAL LAYER