World’s Best Speakers!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=CKIye4RZ-5k
Two Other Guys Build em' = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pkfleSc7AUA
Table of Contents: 0:45 -
Step 1: Sand the panels 3:09 -
Step 2: Seal the panels (ASMR) 4:04 -
Step 3: Install the pins 5:03 -
Step 4: Make the wires 5:39 -
Step 5: Test the exciters 6:18 -
Step 6: Solder the wires to the exciters 7:09 -
Step 7: Attach the exciters 9:41 -
Step 8: Sound test
Parts: 2 Dayton Audio DAEX25FHE-4 Framed High Efficiency 25mm Exciter 24W 4 Ohm
Nobsound 2.1 Channel Bluetooth 4.2 Amplifier , Class D Stereo Audio Amplifier 2
Foamular 1 x 24 x 24 inch panels 4 Cotter pins 1 inch 2-part epoxy White glue India ink
Speaker wire String Banana Plugs (optional)
Tools: Sand paper Razor knife A marker String Drill Scissors Wirestripper
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World's Second Best Speakers! =
1. Cut the plywood sheets as per the diagrams. Note: If you cut carefully, the four angled
sides and one 12" front wall can be cut from one sheet. The other front wall, the two back
sides and the four base pads can be cut from the other sheet.
 
2. Cut out the baffle openings at the bottoms of the two front walls as well as a 7.5"
diameter hole for each driver.
 
3. Bevel the bottom edge of the back wall 7 degrees. The inside surface will become
slightly shorter.
 
4. Cut out 2' diameter holes, 28' above the bottom edge of the back wall for the terminal
cup.
 
5. Scribe a line 0.375" in from each long edge of each of the two front walls and 0.375" in
from the angled edge (back edge) of each of the four side walls.
 
6. Mark the lines on the front walls for at least 9 evenly spaced screw locations.
 
7. For the operations below, try to align the bottoms of the walls as carefully as possible.
This will make it easier to set the box onto the pad later. Any excess length in the walls can
be corrected later before fitting the top cap.
 
8. Apply wood glue between the vertical (front) edge of each side wall and the back
surface of each front wall, clamp these pieces at a right angle, drill through the front wall
into the edge of each side wall, countersinking each hole 1/2 way through the plywood.
 
9. Use 1 1/2" long, #8 wood screws to secure these pieces. Follow each hole with a screw
to avoid slight misalignment from accumulating as you proceed. Liquid glue is a good
lubricant! Apply a dab of glue to 5/16" diameter dowel pins and tap into the holes.
 
10. Once the glue has set, cut off most of the exposed dowels and finish flush with a
random orbit, hand sander.
 
11. Turn the box over, temporally screw some overlong boards laterally across the outer
surface of the back wall and ease the back into the gap between the angled edges of the
side walls. These board assure that the back remains flush with the edges.
 
12. Mark at least 9 evenly spaced screw holes along the lines near the back edges of the
sides that you scribed earlier.
13. Drill and FLUSH counter sink these holes for 2" long, #6 wood screws. Again, screw as
you drill. DO NOT GLUE ON THE BACK!!
 
14. Apply glue to the surfaces of the base pads and with a few temporary alignment
screws and a lot of weight, glue these four base pieces into two, double thick base pads.
These pads should be longer front to back than they are wide.
 
15. Once the glue has dried, remove the temporary screws, clean up these pads by
sanding off any expressed glue, relieve the sharp, front and side edges with a roundover
router bit and route the notch shown on the drawings into the top surface adjacent to the
front edge of each pad. This notch will receive the lower edge of the curved aluminum
plate.
 
16. Center each box on the top of its pad with the back wall flush with the back edge of the
pad. Mark the outline as well as the inside (you can access this through the port). Remove
the box apply glue to the pad and lower the box carefully onto the glue line.
 
17. Once glue has dried, remove the back, lay the speaker flat and begin applying the
constrained layer panels. These panels can be rough cut from inexpensive wood. I like the
5mm underlayment used for flooring. The panels should not touch the other walls or each
other and can cover as little as 80% of the available surface. Save time and don't cover
below the top of the port or cut out a hole for the driver or the terminal cup. Using
individual pieces only 1/2-1/3 the length of each wall makes the job less messy.
 
18. The top cap which closes off the small open end of the speaker can be fabricated from
a variety of materials. A small piece of dark, interesting would looks nice and is easy to
apply. With the box still horizontal, square up the open end. A sander and patience is best,
a plane or saw will likely chip the surfaces of the walls and this will be very visible.
 
19. Rough cut the cap slightly oversize and with a few small screws to retain it, glue the
cap onto the end. Allow the glue to cure, remove the screws, then sand the edge flush with
the surfaces of the walls. DO NOT GLUE THE CAP TO THE BACK WALL!
 
20. If you are going to stain or paint the box, NOW is a good time.
 
21. Glue the four individual aluminum plates into two, paired plates with a constrained
layer of the Decidamp between them
 
22. Trial fit the aluminum plates by setting the bottom edges into the notches in the pads
and angling them back and up toward the back wall. Mark where the front surface should
sit. Note: Allow clearance for the back wall to be inserted (I didn't!). Drill a shallow hole into
each side of the inside the box for temporary dowels to support the plate. Use the
Decidamp to apply a bead of adhesive to secure each plate. When cured, remove the
dowels.
 
23. Secure a rectangle of plastic window screen a couple of inches above the driver
cutout. This can be done with staples, glue, hot glue or thin strips of wood, glued and
clamped to the sides. This screen will retain the fiber fill.
 
24. Spread and fluff approximately 1 pound of the fiber fill into the space above the screen.
 
25. Stand the speakers vertically mark and drill the mounting screw holes for the drivers
and then install the drivers. Do the same for the terminal cup on the back.
 
26. Attach the lead wires to the drivers with enough excess that you can attach and detach
these leads from the terminal cup without removing the back wall.
 
27. There is debate about the utility of spikes for supporting a speaker. Whether or not you
use these, you will at least need to install leveling pads because these very tall speakers
will need adjustment to compensate for a less than level floor.
 
GOOD LUCK!