Electrickery for camping

Chances are if you have been camping for some time that you have seen friends go through the
following evolution, who knows, you might have gone through this yourself. And many of us are
somewhere on this journey ….

You go camping with friends, possibly even get to use their hand me down tent for the Saturday
night. Next week you are ALIVE, and buzzing from the experience of “the camp” …. And now you
plan your next trip. At some point you obtain your friends hand me down tent, or go buy a cheapy
at your nearest camping shop. While you walk through the store you realise you need a sleeping
bag. Thanks to Eskom we all have gas bottle at home so you are set for making coffee in camp.

No frills camping …

First camp on your own is sort of okay. But you convince yourself that if only you had the gear the
guys next to you had, then you would have enjoyed your camp so much more. Just look at his
drawer system in his bakkie, and that other guy had such good looking rig on some sort of trailer
setup ….

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And the journey starts. Now you troll the camping shops. Visit every Forum to get the best
overlanding tips, for your next 3 day camp 50km from home. THREE days ! Wow, now you are going
to need some sort of a cooler box to keep the meat from going off. What !! These 4x4 camping
stores are totally wacked out. How dare they charge more than R 3 000 for a cooler box, sure that
R 250 model will do the trick.

Hoping my R250 cooler box work as well as this R 3 000 unit …

By the morning of day 2 the cooler box is no cooler than the outside air. Day two will always be
remembered for the luke warm drinks ….. Then you see the guy camping next to you has fridge ! A
fridge in the middle of the bush with no electricity nearby. Huh ??

And thus you enter a brand new world of electrical options for your camping needs.

So you buy that 12V fridge/freezer, and then find out that it needs power when you have parked
your vehicle. JIP, the salesperson “forgot” to tell you about a “dual battery setup” …. You guessed it,
you have only just started spending money. You are about to spend a lot more money on
electrickery for your camping setup.

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How to power your fridge ?

The answer to this depends largely on YOUR use and requirements. There is no single answer that
works for everybody. Some need the drinks to stay cool, and don’t worry too much if the fridge is
off for some hours per day. Others keep medicine in the fridge and the power must be un-
interrupted. The following is some examples of how it can be done.

Some people place the fridge in the back of the vehicle and use an existing power point. Most of
these power points only deliver power while the ignition is switched on. The wiring to these power
points is seldom rated for long periods of use for the power demand of the fridge. The next
evolution is to install a relay and a dedicated power point for the fridge. The only benefit here is
that you now know the wire is rated for the current draw. You can also use better quality electrical
connection points.

Busy with the installation, coil still to be routed to back

Fuse and relay. Relay activate by a signal from the ignition

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But this is only the start of the electrickery journey ! Having already spent a small fortune you now
WANT that fridge to be cold for the whole weekend, not only while you drive. So you start playing
camping-russian-roulette, you leave the ignition on for a few hours at a time to keep the fridge
going. And it is not long before you wake up to a flat battery !

Now you start asking questions about a “second battery”. Never in your life have you had so many
opposing ideas about a single item. You are going to encounter the following questions:

- What type of battery?

- Where must the battery be placed?
- What size cables?
- How do you charge this second battery

Most often people forget to ask how to use the power from the second battery. This typically
becomes more apparent when the next question pops up: What can I power from the 2ndbattery ?

And then a few trips later you start asking questions about solar systems.

In the following sections I will attempt to provide some insight into possible answers to these
questions.

PLEASE NOTE:

- I will mention the brands I have installed, but I will also mention some other brands as well.
This series of posts is NOT promoting any brand above any other ! Rather I will attempt to
promote technological concepts, while trying my best to explain the use of each technology
in respect to the end user requirements, and to explain it in laymans terms.
- I have multiple qualifications in electrical and mechanical engineering. But most of what I
am posting here is as a result of having paid expensive school fees along the road
ofelectrickery for our camping.
- During the last decade there have been huge advances in the various components. And by
2015 this article will need updating in terms of the latest technologies for each field … and
this need for updating will be never ending. So PLEASE read all comments in context of the
time it was written and the technology available at the time, AND in terms of the unique
needs of each end user.
- Eggie, Fluffy, Koebelwagen, Mistral, SarelF and so many more had contributed greatly to this
knowledge pool over the last couple of years – THANKS gents !

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Battery type

For years our only option was “high cycle” batteries, the type that have been used as starter
batteries for decades. Then “deep cycle” batteries were added to the option list. There are now
other very expensive options as well. (With no personal experience of these alternate models I will
ask others to add information about these options)

I was going to write a nice piece about the properties of the high vs deep cycle batteries …. But the
more I researched this topic the bigger the mine field got !

For now I will just be highlighting the following very basic characteristics:

- Charge voltage –modern alternators deliver around 14V, which is high enough to charge a
high cycle battery, while a deep cycle requires about 14,5V for a full charge.
- The norm now is a battery with an approximately capacity of 100A.h.
- Deep cycle batteries are better suited for deep discharge, when compared to high cycle
batteries. Which is probably the main reason these have the market share.
- Deep cycle batteries have a unique characteristic whereby it charges slowly once discharged
below 50%. This is probably the single biggest drawback of deep cycle batteries. Once a
deep cycle battery has been discharged deeply in a camp environment you will need an
extended charge cycle to be able to get it charged properly. More about this when we look
at the charging options.

However, this magic “Capacity” of a battery is hardly the same as a 2 liter milk bottle that will always
have a capacity of 2 liter when full. According to the table below a classic six cell car battery is “full”
when it has a voltage of 12,7V. By the time the voltage drops to 12,42V the battery is only 80% full,
and 11,9V points to a charge level of 40%.

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A “total discharge” is very bad for a battery and drastically shortens its life span. Thus the National
Luna fridges have a function whereby the fridge will automatically switch off at a set value to protect
the battery. The safest setting will shut off the fridge once the battery voltage drops to 11,5V. You
can push this limit by opting for the medium safety setting of 10,5V – which according to the
attached table is a total discharge of the battery, which will shorten the life span of the battery !

Battery monitors
Imagine driving your 4x4 with no fuel gauge, not knowing when you will run out of fuel.

Now imagine camping with a fridge full of drinks and meat, not knowing when your battery is going
to “die”. A “battery monitor” is the fuel gauge for your battery. From the previous table you can see
that there is a direct correlation between the battery voltage and the battery charge level. Thus a
battery monitor is just a fancy voltmeter.

The NL fridges have battery monitors installed in their fridges for this very reason.

NL also sells battery monitors. These can be used to monitor the 2nd battery voltage, or you can buy
a dual unit to show the voltages of both batteries.

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 Digital Volt and Amm meter to monitor power usage.

For the real techno geeks there are very fancy meters that will measure the voltages, and record the
current flow into and out of the battery.

Enough of batteries for now. I will leave it to the experts to tell us more about the current options.

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Where to place the battery?

The possible answers to this question are dictated by your vehicle and camping setup.

The classic setup was to fit the 2nd battery in the engine bay. Some 4x4 vehicles are manufactured
with this in mind and have space set aside for a 2nd battery. Yet more and more vehicles don’t have
any spare space in the engine bay. With bakkies we often see the 2nd battery in the back with the
rest of the camping gear. This works, as the back is traditionally well ventilated.

Here I need to point out that traditional batteries give of highly combustible Hydrogen gas when it is
charged. As such it is a VERY bad idea to charge a battery in a closed space ! Some of the modern
batteries claim to use other chemicals and that no hydrogen is given off during charging.

If you drive a 4x4 SUV type vehicle and need to install the battery IN the vehicle please ensure you
get a battery that is totally sealed, that wont be giving off any hydrogen gas during the charge cycle.

And of course many batteries are fitted in camping trailers.

Wherever you place the

battery, please ensure
you use a proper bracket
to mount it. With
batteries weighing about
30kg it becomes a very
heavy projectile in an
accident, so it really needs
to be fixed properly.
There have been a
number of reports where
poorly designed battery
brackets tore vehicle
fenders !!

My personal recommendation is to place the battery close to where the power will be used.

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What size cables?

Uhm, ja …. Bet the first installer you see will tell you that you MUST use 16mm square cable to the
2ndbattery, or even 25mm square cable if he thinks he can milk you for more money …. Thick cables
are expensive, and there is a lot of money to be made if you can convince a client to use the thickest
possible cable.

Samples of 4 mm2, 6 mm2, 10 mm2, 16 mm2 cables

The reasons for using very thick cables is to limit the “volt drop”, while the current carrying capacity
will in turn determine the minimum cable size.

On the assumption that most people reading this are not qualified electrical engineers it is best to
take a moment to discuss these terms. To keep it simple, let’s consider the flow of electricity as that
process whereby electrons move from one atom to another. For this process to occur you need a
“potential difference”, and a closed circuit. Once you have a chemical cell which provides a potential
difference, you have a situation whereby you can complete the circuit using wires and a “load” (that
item that uses the electricity). The “resistance” of the load will then determine the resultant
“current flow”. The basic terms are:

- Potential difference - volt (unit V, symbol V) - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volt

- Current flow – ampere or amps (unit A, symbol I) -http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampere
- Resistance – ohm (unit ohm, symbol R) - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm

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The basic mathematical relation of these three entities is : V = I x R

In addition to this there are two more entities relevant to electrickery in our 4x4’s:

- Charge - here we use the term “A.h”, which is literally the product of the current flow and
the time it was used.
- Power – watts (unit W, symbol P) - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt

So what does all this stuff actually mean ?

Well your 2nd battery is charged from the vehicles alternator, when the alternator has a larger
“potential difference” than the voltage of the 2nd battery. So if your 2nd battery shows a voltage of
12V and the alternator puts out 14V the 2nd battery should be charged. BUT, we need to look at the
“circuit”. This means we need to look at every connection and every piece of wire in the circuit.
Working with round numbers here – let’s say the circuit (wires and connectors) add 0,05 ohm
resistance to the complete circuit while the 2nd battery is being charged at a rate of 20A. Then we
can calculate the voltage drop in the circuit as follows:

V = I x R = 20 x 0,05 = 1V

{Note to the purists – this example use values aimed at getting the message across}

This means that of the 14V available from the alternator, the 2nd battery only “sees” 13V, since 1V
was “lost” in the circuit due to the resistance in the circuit.

Punch line : 13V is NOT enough to charge the 2nd battery ! Well not entirely true .... in practice it
means the charge current is limited, and a balance is struck between the volt drop and the charge
current. As such a 10mm square cable may well be used to charge the second battery, albeit at a
reduced current flow due to the volt drop.

And thus people started using THICK cables with lower resistance to ensure the 2nd battery “sees” a
voltage as close to the alternator output as possible. For decades this practice was our only option,
and the use of way over sized cables became the norm.

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And then the deep cycle batteries entered our campsites. But a deep cycle battery needs 14,5V to
fully charge !! Thus MORE volts than many modern alternators deliver. In the next section we will
discuss how this problem was overcome. For now let’s focus on the minimum cable size.

We already know that V = I x R, in thinner cables the resistance is higher, leading to higher voltage
drops. This voltage drop causes heating of the cable. There are industry norms for the maximum
current relative to cable size to ensure the heat generated remains within safe limits. From the SABS
tables (using the worst case values) we get the following guidelines for the maximum current that a
cable can carry continuously.

Cable size in mm square 1 1,5 2,5 4 6 10 16

Current carrying capacity 11 14 18 25 32 43 57

Thus, if you used a charger that limited the charge current to 20A a 4mm square wire would be
sufficient. More about this in the next section.

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How to charge the second battery

Once again there are so many options, and the optimum solution depends on your specific
requirements.

Most people start off with connecting the 2nd battery to the alternator and hoping this will charge
the 2nd battery. Depending on the exact setup you may be able to charge the battery to some
extent, but highly unlikely you will get more than 80% of the possible capacity of the system.
Remember the previous section where we spoke about the voltage drop, and the final voltage
available at the 2nd battery.

The cheap solution is to pre-charge the battery at home, with a 220V charger. Then relying on the
alternator to keep the system going for a typical long weekend trip. And this works surprisingly well
for many people. But once you take a trip of more than a few days the limitations of this approach
becomes very apparent. Then you start thinking of better systems …

The deep cycle battery is best suited for campsite use, but requires a charge voltage of 14,5V. This is
more than most alternators now deliver. This created a market place for the DC-to-DC (dc2dc)
chargers. The principle of this charger is simple, it takes the voltage from the alternator and pushes
the volt value up, by reducing the current value in turn. You now get a situation where your
alternator puts out 13V at idling, but after the dc2dc charger your 2nd battery sees 14,5V. An added
benefit is that most dc2dc chargers actually limit the charge current, thus you can now more
accurately choose a cable size that matches your installation.

Most dc2dc chargers are also “clever chargers”. The “clever chargers” monitors the charge level of
the 2nd battery. Once the 2nd battery is almost fully charged the charge current is reduced, to protect
the battery.

So while you are driving, your alternator, via the dc2dc charger, charges your 2ndbattery at 20A
(different models have different pre-set values, but this is a realistic figure).This is a very good
system and has many benefits, but still does not address the fundamental question of power while
you are parked.

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As long as you are parked your fridge draws power from the battery. With an average current draw
of about 60A.h per day you need to drive at least 3 hours per day to keep the battery charged, or
find some other way to keep it charged … More about this later.

Fridge power draw

National Luna (NL) provides a current draw figure of “an average of 2,5A” per day for its 52 liter
Weekender Twin unit. Basic maths says 24 hours times 2,5A = 60A.h -
http://www.nationalluna.com/weekender52.htm

BUT, NL briefly mentions “..consumption is measured in a controlled environment ... Actual power
consumption may vary ...”. Actual tests show a current draw of 5 to 6 A. Due to the on/off cycles
the average of 2,5A is possible in moderate climates. During summer in Kgalagadi or Namibia, with
day temperatures of more than 40 degrees Celcius, and night temperatures mostly above 30
degrees Celcius the fridge hardly ever switch off !! At 5A for approximately 20 hours you suddenly
need 100A.h to power your fridge !!

The actual power draw of your fridge will depend on many factors:

- Insulation – the quality of the insulation has a big impact on the power draw.
- Where the unit is installed – A unit installed inside an air conditioned SUV will draw a LOT
less power than a unit stuck in the back of a super hot canopy.
- Use – Opening the fridge too often increased the cooling load, and thus increase the power
draw.
- Loading of goods – Try to load cold goods into the fridge, or load the goods when you can
use mains power to cool it down, thus saving your battery capacity.
- Operating temperature – The colder the thermostat setting of a fridge, the higher the rate of
heat flow through the insulation.

Never over look the most obvious though – use the 220V in the camp site when available.

What is a “relay” ?
When switching a circuit on or off, a spark is generated at the switch. This spark actually burns away
the switch contacts over a period of time (number of uses). The solution to this problem is to limit
the current that flow through the switch – but the current flowing to the load is a constant. As such
the circuit is now split in two:

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 Fuse N
L To “Load”
30 87

L N
Signal 86 85
Switch

Diagram of a relay

Typical auto relay

Think of this as the electrical circuit for a set of spot lights. By switching the spot light switch, you
are passing a small current through an electromagnetic coil, this closes the heavy duty switch
between “30” and “87” and power is now sent to the spot lights. The contact point numbers used in
the illustration are above are the standard numbers found on relays.

The current flow will determine the type of relay to be used. For spot lights and other small items
standard relays are used. For connecting two batteries a much higher current flow is allowed for
and a heavy duty cole hersee type relay is used.

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 Colehersee relay

Relay and fuse box for spot lights, air horn, radios

The benefit of a relay is that it will function automatically and

no additional user input is required. That said, there are still a
few users that want full manual control. They would then use a
typical “marine switch” to connect or disconnect batteries.

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What to power from the 2nd battery ?

What do we use cell phones for now ? “Phoning” is last on a very long list of functions.

In the same way we start with a 2nd battery system to power the fridge. But once we have power,
we realize that it could:

- Charge the cell phones

- Charge the iPads
- Charge the laptops
- Charge the camera batteries
- Drive the compressor
- Power an electric blanket for winter camping
- LED lights
- And the list just keeps on getting longer and longer …

To manage this host of devices you will need a well planned power distribution setup. Jip, you have
now migrated from simply powering your fridge to becoming your own Escom !

PLEASE NOTE:

The 12V battery and all the cabling you are about to install DOES have the
potential to burn your vehicle to the ground if done badly !

MOST manufacturers void your warrantee once you have these electrical
installations done !!

DON’T play with this if you don’t know what you are doing. This article is
aimed at helping you to understand what a decent system should have in it.

This is not a DIY training kit !

When doing a power distribution system the safety of this system is determined by:

- Size and placement of fuses

- Wire sizing
- How wires are run
- Connections

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FUSES

Install a 100A fuse close to the 2nd battery in the main positive wire going to the distribution box. In
the distribution box plan your layout and provide appropriate size fuses for each circuit, ie a 5A fuse
for the LED light circuit that will only be using about 1A, or a 15A fuse for the circuit that will power
the fridge.

WIRE SIZING

With each circuit properly planned, you will know the expected current draw for that circuit and can
use the optimum wire size. The only downfall of oversizing is the impact on your budget, but under
sizing cables are to be avoided !

RUNNING THE WIRES

The fuses provide a measure of safety in the event of a short. But prevention is better than cure.
Run the cables in sleeves or trunking to protect it, and to avoid electrical short circuits. The use of
cable ties greatly assist with keeping wiring neat and preventing it from chaffing through, potentially
causing short circuits.

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CONNECTIONS

We go through all the effort of using correctly sized cables to keep voltage drops to an absolute
minimum. Yet, one bad connection can cause more of a voltage drop that all the wires. And such a
bad connection has the potential to generate heat and be the cause of an electrical fire!

Electrical connections very often make use of “lugs”. Proper connection of the wire to the lug can be
done in the following ways:

- Solder – Insert the wire into the lug and solder it. However, a bad solder joint can cause a
“dry-joint” which leads to a volt drop, which causes heat build up, which can melt the solder
and the joint can become undone ! This is probably the lead cause of failure of joints.
- Crimping – using a proper crimping tool you can ensure a proper connection of the wire to
the lug. The photos below shows two decent crimping tools. Do NOT try to use a pair of
pliers to crimp a lug !
- Crimp and solder – I prefer to use a proper crimping tool, and then to also solder the joint.
Definitely a belts and braces approach.
- Once the connection has been made, use some “heat shrink” to achieve a proper finish. A
4x4 fitment centre that use “insulation tape” wont ever touch my vehicle.

Quality crimping tools

Heat shrink to finish off the connection

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LUG SIZING

Lugs have two dimensions:

- The whole diameter – the diameter of the bolt or screw that will hold the lug in place.
- The wire size – this dimension refers to the wire size that is to be used with that specific lug.

Thus a 6x4 lug will be connected to a battery terminal with a 6mm bolt, and will accommodate a
4mm square wire. Using the correct size lug is important to achieve an optimum connection.

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Solar systems

You have now almost come full circle. You bought the fridge for your next 3 day camp. You now
know the basics of where your 2nd battery can be mounted. You even know the basics of the wiring
and fuses to distribute your new found power for other devices ….

And suddenly you find that the fancy dc2dc charger no longer can store enough power in that
stupidly small 100A.h battery to drive the fridge, cell phones, laptops, camera batteries, etc etc …
And driving for hours on end each day to keep all these devices charged is taking the fun out of your
three day break away.

Time for the next step on this electrical journey – a solar system. After all this will keep that battery
going and everybody can sit around the camp fire with their faces pointed directly at their individual
electronic gadgets. So what are your options with solar:

- Foldable – You get a kit that folds up and packs away to about the size of a brief case. Nice.
Minimal packing space. And when you need it you place it out on the grass and charge your
battery. Downsides being that it only works when you have actually packed it out, ie it does
not help you when parked out near a watering hole taking some photos, and when you get
back to camp late in the afternoon there is not enough sunlight left to really charge the
battery. And if you place it on the ground the neighbours kids ride over your panel with
their bicycles. And at about R7 000 for such a fold up panel you want to wring their little
necks for breaking your panel !

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 - Roll up panel – very much the same concept as above. Just cheaper and it rolls up to the size
of a large drum.

- Solid panels – An 80W panel is about 1000x700mm. VERY uncomfortable size to pack away,
this is the reason people consider the first two options. To reduce the packing space people
use two of 50W panels with hinges, now the panels can “fold double” drastically decreasing
the packing size. This is actually the same as the first two options, just much cheaper. The
main drawback remains, solar panels that are packed away don’t charge any batteries. Solar
panels only work when in the sun ! (nothing worse than killing a battery in Kgalagadi, while
your fancy solar system is packed away inside your vehicle ….)

- Permanently mounted solar panels – the ultimate solution is to have solar panels
permanently mounted on the roof of your 4x4. This way it can charge the battery any time
your vehicle is parked in the sun.

Solar panels charge your battery via a “regulator”. There are basically two types of solar regulators:

- Shunt – Your solar panel will have about

16V worth of potential energy while
charging, while the battery needs
between 13,5 and 14,5V to charge. The
shunt regulator “throws away” the extra
volts. Thus reducing the potential
power you can get from the solar
panels.

- MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking)

- Think of this as a reverse dc2dc
charger. It reduces the potential 16V to
the required 13,5 to 14,5V, and
increases the charge current by the
same ratio. Thus ensuring the maximum
solar power is delivered to the battery.

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Thanks to a number of specialist suppliers we now have access to some stunning camping
equipment. Even a dc2dc charger that also has a MPPT solar connection point. These units are
known as “dual chargers”.

The Ctek 250 S set the standard for dual chargers. It has a dc2dc charge rate of 20A, high enough for
a fast charge without damaging the battery. But it also has a built in MPPT solar charger for your
solar panels. This unit is fully automatic. As soon as you start the engine the Ctek senses this and
the dc2dc charger starts about 5 seconds later. When you switch off the engine the Ctek will
automatically switch over to solar charging.

HcDP now also has some dual chargers. Some need manual switching, while others switch over
automatically. (I strongly recommend the models that switch automatically between alternator and
solar)

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Dual battery system

Having covered the basics in the previous “chapters”, it is now time to apply this information to
select components for a dual battery system.

Let’s do this for a bakkie with the battery in the back of the vehicle and with a full power distribution
system. This is how it was done 2 decades back:

Colehersee relay

Fuse

- + - +

Fuse at the 1st battery, then a basic heavy duty relay, and some 16mm square cables to charge the
second battery.

Due to the high voltages required to charge modern deep cycle batteries this approach has now
fallen by the way side. We now use dc2dc chargers, as follows:

DC to DC charger
14,5V
Fuse 13,8V

- + - +

This way we are now SURE the charge voltage is high enough to fully charge the 2 nd battery. Since
the dc2dc charger limits the charge current we can now use a 4 or a 6mm square wire from the front
to the back. Note how the dc2dc charger is located close to the 2nd battery.

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But you want to camp without having to run the engine, thus you need to add solar :

Solar
panel

Fuse Solar Regulator

- + - +

DC to DC charger
With this setup the alternator can charge the battery while you drive. And while camping the solar
panel can charge the battery.

If you were to use a Ctek or HcDP dual charger your setup would look like this:

Solar
panel

Fuse

- + - +

Dual charger

Okay, so your charging circuit is sorted, now let’s look at the distribution from the second battery
(include a fuse AT the battery in the positive lead):

5A Lights circuit
10A Laptop charging circuit
20A Fridge circuit
20A Spare charging circuit

- +

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Combine all of this and you may well have a “dual battery system” that looks something like this:

Solar 5A Lights circuit

panel 10A Laptop charging circuit
20A Fridge circuit

Fuse 20A Spare charging circuit

- + - +

My ideal system (for OUR use):

Dual charger 6mm2 from 1st battery to dual charger

Fuse AT 1st battery

Dual charger

100A.h Deep Cycle battery

10mm2 to distribution box (overkill)

Fuse box and various power outlets ….

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