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Roxanne Shaka Ma Instructions
Roxanne Shaka Ma Instructions
People who are used to sewing Western medieval teach you about something Japanese (*anything*
clothing sometimes have a hard time shifting their Japanese!) if you’re willing to hold still long enough.
brains to the idea of making clothing without curves,
box pleats, gathers, and drawstrings, or that doesn’t I recommend reading through the instructions fully
need an internal system of hoists and pulleys to before attempting anything. If something does not
make their bodies fit into them. The idea of an make sense at first it may a little later on.
entire fabulous wardrobe made almost entirely of
Give yourself plenty of time when doing this the first
rectangles is a difficult one to accept. It’s not
few times. A rushed job can be noticeable and
always easy, but once you learn the rules and
discouraging. The more often you sew these the
techniques you’ll find yourself, like me, having
easier it will become.
made well over fifty pair of hakama. (A few of them
were even for me!) The other nice thing about hakama that no one
seems to mention is that, unless you’re one of
The patterns I developed (with lots of help from
those incredibly rare women whose thighs don’t rub
other people) is as period as I know how to make it.
together, sometimes it’s nice to wear pants at
I’m sure it will change in the future as I learn more,
Pennsic.
but they look right, fit correctly, and are very
comfortable to wear. Now, a moment of shame: I apologize for the
excessive use of the word ‘crotch’. I can’t find a
Hakama are simple to make. Time consuming, but
more genteel word.
simple. There’s nothing to fear, so take a deep
breath.
The Japanese had looms that were only 13-14
The Japanese are not known for being the most inches wide in period. They made very efficient use
curvaceous people in the world and we have all of their fabric and most of the sewing will be based
sorts of shapes and sizes in the SCA. I have on the width of the fabric. Start by figuring out what
included additional instructions that are size your width of fabric (or standard panel) should
accommodating to give the correct fit but not be.
necessarily period. Follow the instructions for
I usually use a 12” panel for a Small to Medium
whichever your priority is, or the priority of the
sized modern Western woman, 13” for Medium to
person that you are sewing them for.
Large women, 14” for Large to Extra large, 15” for
In this packet I’ve tried to explain as X-Large to 2 X-Large, and 16” for 3-4 X-Large
much as possible and to create a good women. Men I will use 14” for Medium, 15” for
guide. If you need additional Large to X-Large. This is sort of a rough idea. It
explanations or help with understanding may take a little while to find what is right for you,
the process feel free to ask me after the class or but this Japanese garment is very forgiving and
come to visit me at Clan Yama Kaminari where there is some room to play. These measurements
people are warm, welcoming and very happy to also apply to other Japanese garments that you
2
When I first started sewing these I was used to Repeat this for the second pleat and third pleat
sewing huge Western European skirts with many depending on if you want four or six pleats. When
pleats so I way overdid it and wondered why they doing three pleats per side with standard
didn’t look right. The pleats will go toward the measurements I usually find that the seam between
center seam, so your right pleats will be folded the the pairs lines up with the fold of the second pleat.
opposite of your left pleats. The entire width of the If this is not the case for you do not be worried.
front of the pants at the waist should be about one
standard panel wide. Some people are a little more
modest and want less of a gap on the sides. Just
measure how wide it should be in order to still have
a gap on the sides of roughly 3”- 6” per side. The
Japanese in period tended to have a standard width
for all pants, but I’d rather have them look as
though they fit correctly on the person and have the
person be comfortable in their garb. The gap is
what makes hakama look like hakama. If there is
no gap and your pants completely overlap they will
look like Thai fisherman pants rather than Japanese
pants.
The Back Pleats For the sake of ease stitch these in place close to
the top with one long seam just as you did before
You will want your total back waist width to be the
for the front pleats.
same as the front. For Seimei this is again 14”.
The back has two large folds that overlap slightly
(1-3”). For the standard pattern you can usually
grab the seam between pairs and fold it over
towards the center, passing the center seam by
1-3” and wind up with the correct measurement.
Take piece #6 and overlap slightly onto piece #7.
From the center seam to the angle should be half of
your back waist width. For Seimei this is 7”.
7
Take the ends and fold them over ½”-1” and iron so
that the rough edge will be on the inside along with
the rough ends of the joining seams from earlier.
Now you have reached the point where you can say
that you are done! Congratulations! You have now
successfully sewn a pair of hakama! Take a
moment to breathe a sigh of relief, do a happy
dance or go to bed if you’ve been up all night
working on them.
1. Grab the
waistband of
the back of the
pants and bring
the end
forward.
7. Tie a bow.
3. Pull up the front
waistband over
the bow from
the back ties.
Basic Tips for Dressing in Japanese Garb Although everybody loves how beautiful Geisha
are, the typical geisha that we think of really isn’t
Usually a Japanese belt or sash known as an obi period. Again they are from the Edo period. They
(OH-BEE) is worn on top of the waistband and ties. started to become really popular in the 1700’s.
During period these were not terribly wide (2”-5”) Dressing like a Geisha, although fun, is just as
and tied in the front for both genders. It wasn’t until appropriate in the SCA as dressing in Baroque,
the Edo period (1603-1867) that women’s obi Edwardian, Victorian or Antebellum outfits. .
became too wide to tie in the front and they were
moved to the back. Men wearing an obi tied in the
back indicate that they are a homosexual or a
homosexual prostitute. Men wearing solid red
hakama were often homosexual as well. Solid red
monpei are okay.