In, Food in Global History, ed. by Raymond Grew.
Boulder: Westview Press. Pp. 240-72. 1999,
Chapter Thirteen
We Eat Each Other’s Food
to Nourish Our Body:
The Global and the Local as
Mutually Constituent Forces
Emiko Ohnuki-Tierney
Given the dual emphases on global dynamics and on food inthis volume,
‘his chaper stares with avery brief review of approaches to understanding
tlobal ores past and presen primary in anthropology, in order eo situate
ry discussion of fod asa symbol Then Ture a moc portion ofthis essay
{o arg tat “the global andthe los!” ae mutually sonst fores ad
‘hatin order ro understand the complex dynamic ofthese iterating fsces
‘we most examine the role of global dynamics a historical processes. Ido
that by exploring the representation ofthe food items introdced to Japan
2 diferent mes in its history. These include the inoduction of ie from
Somewhere in Asia and the subsequent ures of rice asa metaphor of the
Tapanes self si changes overtime; the introduction of meat athe context
of fapanese reassessment of self atthe end ofthe nineteenth century and the
introduction ofthe McDonalds restaurants in th global era.
The Debates
lo terms of quantitative low the current evidence of globalization is impos
‘ng Examples range from Coca Cola, McDonald's, td the television pro
We Eat Each Others Fd to Now ur
fram "Dalle" to the spread of democratization, che human rights move
trent, feminism, minority righty, international agencies suck as the United
[Nations (UN) and the World Health Organization (WHO), various en
ronmental moversets, the wansplntation of human orgins, the notion of
bein death and global form of communication ike evil and the use of
the world-wide web, wansnationa corporations and trading companies,
lobal competitions tke the Olympics, incrnational hwyers x accour
fants, nancial advisers, and management conrulrants. Not only the black
marke Sle of human orgun for wansplanttion but also ce afi in drogs
nd weapons operates on a lab sale. The difuion of food and foodways
‘ons global bari is ikewive overwhelming, The golden archer of MeDon-
8% and most kinds of fst foods ae ubiquitous, coming from the United
States and elsewhere, reach even int relatively remote areas, while most
major ets enjoy foods and cuisine from around the worl.
oes globalization, the, preset the Carylian “Signs of the Times" for
today? While scholar in many dicpline, including the socialsciences but
also medicine andthe humanities, have joined the debate, thet opinions df=
fer‘om the queson of whether the phenomenon is of sn entitely different
‘ature and order from the pas We have seen healthy debate among three
distinguished historians parcipating in the conference that resulted In this
books Historian Bruce Mazi (1993 1) believes that "Global History”
st “sar from ovr presen postion, where new factor building om the old
have given a diferent intensity and synchronicity to the proces of global
ization” He believes thatthe quantitative diferncescoasinute 4 quent,
leap in quality, Meslish’s postion i nots radial denial ofthe Toes), but
Schafer (1993) emphasizes the mulpices of global histories anchored ia
specifically loealized histories with, nonethler, cross-cultural, multna-
‘onal andinerdisciplinary connections Schiferacuses che “work history”
‘of MeNeil znd other of being too totalizing. Both Matlsh and Schler are
‘concerned with temporality and converge in viewing global history a 4
problem of periodiation. Schiler rerinds us that the Renisance was de
Fined pow facto some 300 yeas Inter, whereas hitorians are now trying £0
tonieflows
"The McDonais chun wa it imtrodvced to Japan daring the economic
boom in 1971 by Den Fuji then « Univers of Tokyo students ho beg
‘wa nd wear of ive ores comprising $13 milion operation. i
1945, onthe New Yeurs Day, hr tore fo Kamal seat Teli, had he
foul sles of $47571~a worl cord fora single sore in one day (rons
198683). By 1986 ch sls for is empie of SS sre inceted 0 an eo
pir of $7645 milion per month nd caxtomers in he resort hoe
‘Slide sizable imber of forelgner,conmimed 12009 tons of Amescan
bect and 15000 wns of Idaho pooes (Fron 1980, By 19% the numberof
MsDonalé resturants in apan had grown fo 1048 ove (Tanaka
19948)
Since thi introduction o Japan in 1971, MeDonal’ a argted the bo
. Endo 968 260 records ame as Nakapys,
2. node understand bow sib fore a, we mt ake woe of
‘he fc he shhough et win be China dete Japanese oped ie ba oe
‘eat om them Tis pal ther pcg prac by the Che The apn
She conideed any aeraon ofthe body to be an act of impurity ad wed he
‘cele the negative nuke fhe Chinese Tuan objec whether ee ot
Fess der soc ery sn "bjeve” meaning, Ba derives rom th dcr pace
Sfaghencalure ee -
3E Tne Jeon's191 erm bere without l oft concep proper.
22 tn 191, nul als rose 1 pt from te previous yea 20? bilion
($16 bilo, 0 sores nap (ich 199239) ster fl ale ong
‘pan Jing foodacove company MeDonalds wat in 979 wih WOT
Ti bt became teed 198, HI lions 192 wih 21.2 bilon
(Guar ae 9)
1 Tail st Glra chime, Minshosinse, now owed the Gina
chime the eubwoy ton
24 Caled nba of moon viewing urge
25 nul 199 mann hi al orien who work forthe Mish Atom
bite Company and ad js toured is companys bance in he United Stats for
four wes mised tome hat he McDowaa infu was mocha Ie bese
‘lear that eo him Doral’ meso tery urges with hue oy sce
“fe The pres at McDonalds in Asp 19 were burger 1 chesebrses
1246; bacon lec burger 129 fillet. fia Boge 28; Big Ma, 8D, Chiken
tao soy sacefiored chicken nw) Tt MePied potatoes 120,29,
‘ib cliche McNogger 80, 40,290 They pede goonsnle For cam:
let hamburger was sed for ¥100 for 7 day between September 218, 1998 Fal-
Leming he onc rds of sling incrpes food x 1c pckage Coch st
sobs wooden nd iarus, + hunbarger Pench rs ad's coke were sol
fete foro during te summer of 198 In Aut nd Septembre 1994 eer
Sr ler for le tal McDonald incadda anburgr os chesdarge wih
Freoch es and sdk for Wile of fo santwich, a lrer sous
French er and nk ¥500; terval urges arg amu of esc feersn
‘of ike 20: Big Mac an age stout of enh ie, ands lichen
ge luge amovnt of ech fer ads of rik 0,
"They ae lose notin thems of Tokyo but ove cnugh, sock the ont
se thin or he one Haus266 EMIKO OHNUKI-TIERNEY
28, The transformation of McDonal's foo or hamburgers in general in Japan
reson to key ingredient oy sac, sed intriyakiburges and ther apace”
‘tem aed tothe mens ice ed ine burg iz anther recently imported
fori food was enstormed in pen, with sch dd me 5 ctu ous, nd
cor Ie beeame party food fr young people since tan be shared festa co
Spicousy aking in Menai
79. Facep soup, Jpanese die ae ala oom tempers. Although cea the
lee ble mast be piping oss ize als oi) and cei thelanch bo ae
Ll exten st oom tert Lunch boxer are enormously popslae ad ze ald in
Aeparemen stores, supermarkets and grocery sores 3 walt by vendors who sl
‘her fom minivans nd care pat tay ofc area rics range frm W280:
17,300, with decent ating ones sheraing wound YOD (Avi Octobe 2, 1993).
[Becase ofthe popularity ofthe lancer, ome fori as fod compuns have
‘moved ato the matt share in uch Fo enrpl fhe lof 198, Resch
Fed Chicken sarted an expentive ine of nee, empbasizing the best ce
(abzatomach and fish (Abs Oc 261993). Bre alsa sions ell hee own
thiben (ation lnehe) which rage pie from 80 012,000 (Nogucht
ean,
530A young man rom Mino, ner Ossh, who jus gaduted from a sive,
‘ra ling fom Oss fo Sa rani in Mach 1994 He expaine tht sy food
‘ich bread doe no ey fl she macy an thas ere fr lunch be and his ends
‘This very wold lok for donb tehobr-—a ng bow feo wich
"acousingredins te plac He peers the ie bares ta banburges mr opi
{bes hamburgers ee sack et erween mess per (Free Taos ofl
‘Retsine of McDonell’ sed a conver pobed im 994 25a ene
“amtugers a Hai and Gysdon (slarge bow of ice wth be and sace on op)
for Full Stomach Shiono shit oaks menpbubut mo iden past
ow young working men peers lars bond of tice with bee or pork on op Basset
ic file het somach and how tamburges pos 9 competion 2 anche
tho Varageh 986. On Sunday, when one dows not work ad ths docs ot Ned
‘trch negy snc, fae with mal cldicn now often go f0 McD:
‘es fornes
3: May of my clleagues and rd tld meta companis an indivi
would cote this depaene oreo hve the it wat fore tthe sonal i
‘change ince Lc has become amor the stom fo have 2 wre epi
‘lepuement toe send gif ou to the designated india ahr than personaly
‘dete
132 Bath McDonaks and Mot Barge’ inp iui thee marines, which
contin esp conte by carter
53 My mothe was oem int fry tht Sst import foods Irom Franc in
‘Yokohama snd wat conte with than 4 te ol pheoprap inde. She mat
‘ed my father who war in expr butnes, wc brought her nto contin contact
Sch fonigner of varus typer Even, ter Tame to the United Stes se kp
‘ending me eters, wasng tent olin tave with an with oe ye
"4 Kumakars eo, profesor the Naso! Musca of Ethology apn nd
induc Hideo, prtenoe x Kyéia Universi, bok pre communion
May te
We Ea Each Other Fond t Neath 265
2. Japa's eaanaional vei liffion was st in motion wih ix encounter
with Han tnd Tag ration of China bt wa ited wit encounter
Vk the West Thus, verse Joan eeopeed its doors wo other cortees athe
(nd of he nnetenth entry the Jpanre people ave Ben amped to ele
‘Weern slain, Even afte her economic aces inthe resent pst, under
sore byte mastery of high ccna the opus cominued fo be unde he
"alr inpevaisn of he Were
The depth and intensity ofthis compulsion i instantly recognizable today
throughout Jun, where even manent forthe kimono in almost every deper-
sper ore in Tojo, Kyoto, and Onksad her jects at tony blood
{oeuvre the body pose of Wester men and women have been cally mon
toring deparment stores th past few years Tews of mannequins wth the Western
Iook ep mith he pei deparmen oer The Masakoes department
Soe te sforemeoned det nd mos prestigious of al the oes in fsa held
‘ct util 9 bur then hanged to manneuins with Weer looks in 194, Today
‘rome, nling some mil-ael wore, td even endive hei hard sme’
‘int een blood Some women Sr nero go though lac surgery in order to
‘egie the rounder sppearince of Western ef, ata of thee eyes with is
“iene fola Alms the sdverement for close, comers, You mame fe.
(re weng movie car and mele
ewan hr conten that Den Faji wa ale o “make itor athe die ther
‘tore opened in Ginza, Tokyo, by capialiing on how “chic iso eat whe
‘Standing and to ext wing o's ands (pa Jka, 33). Young Japanese ould iden
{iy hr new manner with Ameria, who ae though and elie by the Japanere
tobe “aretne” and canal The Areca exuaessgauar) caught Bie ae
ttete,iteducng cau clothing, brkecer, All of thn represented tothe
ipnes te carte yl of Ameria the pose ofthe exeemely constrained
le of apie
"Todi his phenomenon only a form frelon spine heicown ration
ies the pnt oworer—the sebelion embedded in the ng tason of el
‘ul nperalsm of he Were Nos, fo example ht not ony are Japan's Young
prople ing to he new chic manne of eating while Sanding a McDonalds bt
{ie ome of her, primary women aow eal in various “ting shoo” "6
ican Westen manners. The goof these cook sto produce (by means of repo
Seon) arsocrase women fin” Some Jpaneae women spend 9 mont 0
lesen ner at econ of ¥309006, a shng school pened in 1989 in
Burdon. An Areran fishing school mith branches in Tokyo, Oak, Fukuoka
{nd Hin offers 10 hours of knot n Westra ant fr ¥1,060. Those
{trolled nthe rool cone hi 9 be cheaper han ping stead 0 aqui the
“Imerstonlwtocry" (Murakami 199013),
Ted thee double rony here. The saree sbsribe willingly 9 the sy
olay more power Western culture, whove uppercla e sye defined ce
foe she ref the poplason i Wesern Eure: Nov only des ths phenomenon
epee the “tenon veriealillson™ ofthe itreal “yma lence”
‘thn Wester aie but eae represen another symbol ilce—s ew form
Stpmbslc cpt sentnelaion fpr auc ane By
the govenmnt tothe people Note how Dew Fut he peteon who irda266 EMIKO OHNUKI-TIERNEY
McDonald pan and made ig uses thee hs concious asd the Jpn
‘Ge adoration of Ameri: "The sort of my Banos a take svatag of ie
Jigen inerioitycmpln coward Areca” (Pont 19863, emphan added)
‘Ge real tha the earer change nthe maner to praiit pubic uration sd
rest fing wa a he ol Japan traction wh te Wer jut he ito
ection of cera alert inal force to change the sole Japanese a
nercame fom the Wet
56 What we eal she raion pune mannes ws rls othe “Ope
sary or Ogssmara School which originated the bepnning of the Maro
‘ich perio (1392-16) (Non Kokogo Dies Karkoli ed 197313, 31)
"7. The lou Latin tease by Extra, Di eat more pueriam (On =
vi in cir), bled in 130, wn that greet someone wo
[Putnnng or ddacaing +A welrbred peston shuld slays sold exposing
‘thou nee the pro which atere hassel modety I oes om
‘a hn soul be Sane with deen and reerve (Quoted in Eka 199 (199)
4) Although Erna ete cae tthe tine of tial tranaforation no
‘ope importance of manners for every Boman rciey x wel-ecogaiel (ae
TES seu tio,
“The snlnng process hada ie diferent contour in Jp, though atin every
sock ls diflrenes ae soca Urination i pbc places har ben ute
ommoaly practiced by people from difleene cnc. Around 200 Jets 20 it
yon, ren 0) women dso quite fey anus e180 97). Atche ime of te
fre Olympia Japan in 1964 the Japan goverament sev a le to pane
‘Ren nt natn pubicad eo wtomen nots bres ed in publ becuse “fore
‘Sowers se coming ao they mh thnk the apa ae veined” Uke in he
United Sater whete th bodyany part and ll ness enormously charged
seh lion and ache Japanese edt eat writin o res feng gute
“pre fom the serial uncon ht thee body pare performs oter iss. Bat with
‘Ee overnment pete best-lesfingn pbc viealydappeee athoug be
‘en's fa furan inthe abc hs not seer diseppeared. The omate
{lure forte change, rele, wa he Ore
‘On the oer and ope oe alas of he Japanese concep ofc i the
manor of eing which Bae shown fr more ence Of paremoun importance
roth rae of ot sing on’ hans food ad te wie tanding Toe
fist driver fom the notion that hands are by dint dit, that even afer
‘shige ty tuchall srt of ngs ad thre sys ssp of becom
"amined. Sybolly they std for nin space ht demarees the cles in
‘ide~the body he sli—feom the dy outside (Ohmi Terey 198628-31).
{Chops wed sine the being of the Hetun pring (04-118), are by deat
Son lea dts excep Fors ew cally ened foods ome must se chop
Sick inet ol is tha is even eT, easonalf food of ro
Aes arcten so with cops Many panes nd it ified 0
Sandwiches napa sds se fen served i ny pecs, with thick >
Pickup each pice wthou wing ons an
“There ate erin curly esrb food for which Japanese mart se hie
hande For exmplengisnsh epee cele with fh can Be conse
ih nc finger wen they area recy gh aay bu hey are mony etn
We Eat Each Other Food o North 10
vith chopsticks. Ong ce al etn pinay for lunch, alos says equie
‘het of hans Note, however, wen the epanese ae thr has, the hands se
leased, ctkuraly spesking, by ashibon, or me towel Tar, whethe one wes
ban note (and ening towels) ae ote nla with Fas Tos,
‘ther orig or pane
Concerns withthe ial inparty of ands, spec ofthe ight hand, arealact
universal (ere 1960 [1907s Necdtem, el 1973)-In the United Ste, me have
Tel er he eof lve for ning foods Noving ts 00d conser oft
foods “det polation.” Kowak (1978974) points out how theft f20d chai,
(Chock Fall "Nats srr eurtomers ia New Yor City tht tei food es nee
touched by human iaeds "The opanse obsession with lea ands however
Fever eom that ofthe United Snead rm many other races 20 ly hea
the fpanae haves higher level of teniy onthe ura Becta they area
‘more concerned wih the imps of ores than the impurity ofthe ell Merc
‘heigl remarks by Lev Sens (1978 [1968}505-04 bow “he a pon
ton between the reasons or good mutes belived in by o-allpitive people
{nd ousles "Whereas we hek af good manner: sc my of potesng the er
fl pry ofthe sbjc sane the eternal party of bangs and hing in esage
Soci they fea tees of potting the py f beng and hinge gaia he
impariy of the sabe” Although the Japanese many ae espe ar lst to
the" primicives tht sce an eltres no belongagto the High Culae of
‘Waern European sce OhakiTirny 194 fora dacs of the reat
ivi) in eps th paneer ceraily protesting shamed fom the om
‘agin of Othe that ger at were om th and
SieDenslt's impact onthe caboo spin eng with hands i essere Mose
Japanese observed nthe sme of 1994 tl ext hamburgers ia he wrapping
hans aot direc touching the hamburgers though some explained this pacice
‘by aiming othe ney of xing the trapping w hau Ketchup tl ther guide
do ot dip down, Furthermore Ido aot see grea ices in the Japanese ue of
and nenng oer foods Ts he fret rao the Jpanere enting anes se
‘Stave been feted i bythe introduction of McDonald
“There at oter changes the manner of einginoducl by Tosgn fast od
Coke, fs followed by other sol drinks rtd to clu sncon pp noo
teat rgpa nomi mean to de ie one blowing epe ramped tai
srk dst fom bore or Il rom scam rue hoon + it a
ie uchig pps nom epately marked Heawor na seme sense Bet
ow men snd women cat do 0 although thir bear il conic to youne
Fropleinceain cote such afro tre
‘Aouher henge nthe cing unrest comes om she whsksae aopion of ce
aca hich pa oth sro it foods The consumption oferta 0
‘erected dae both he ashe any panne rela toe a tha
the Jpunere uted avid col ood ddl een Sing te samme The pee
{se epecly women edt pt oly ssl outa od inthe moa i
trety ar onle Espey women verte mouth ths handy nh hey eo
ini Bae cream one tou the mouth o be opened vos rater geste
‘hough many women le pn toca crea tha thy doo ave tp
thee mauthlage sme llow the Aan wy of nga ihig with eons268 EMIKO OHNUKE-TIERNEY
38. Aes fart food nic, many Jpn oe McDonalls resus tn equi:
lento ol-tine noodle dishes of ado ob, ad me, oigially traced om
‘China (OhwshiTrrney 196) Of thee he yes of ode ihe, adom ad abe
uneven be considered hate ain ihe comin igh quality sole other
Ingrtios and are seed in exclave esau or oes high a 32500 Shope
‘cling amen are marked wt ed swing color ymboiog Chia, and consi
‘rd pray clo by Jspanee who make ited ua primary color
539A mann the ae fares an editor weiter forthe Aci newspaper old me
uring i it co New York tn although he prefer MeDeona eden pre
fer Moe Borger
14, Only during World Wa Tl id the Jpanese ane to arg alors lan
‘wore fom ter daily palanc,inading pana Japanese ter for bread which de
‘ves rom the Pour term pao fr brea. At present the open ave become
2 daring forthe tof bead a they at forsee. Thos many who can o-
ford boy ony from wellknown beer often with German or Freeh ae.
even newly opened bakery called Desen Behr (Pastoral Bakery, which
ane fom out of oowhere net Ryo, baat so fro for he ae of eed
‘hat any people diet thi bakery fen om hci wy bck rom going. At the
‘ly pane focry tren Maison, Waconia ell what hey el Japanese
bred (botapan) Likewin, a Cambridge, Massichusets stores inthe Porter
gone shoppig center which lant exlsiely dedi o Japanese canoe,
fel Japnete edo tthe loc Janes ca ejoy thet “redial Japanese
rei ede ofthe use f tread bythe pane, ot Ihige 198222-2)) The
Aerin sebum wed for anbarer homever ene new the apne,
Inshape ae ad we
‘The fie meal to be “iad by forsgn foods was bral, wit red ep
ing ce Dove (1973 [1958160 ater the begining of he adopon of brad for
‘esas in 93, He ound tht he ao read war welcomed by hore who
olongerbad cookies he mornings thar cold deep lilelonger Tht
Present any run Japanse would no tik of exing the Japanese bee eit
"es ee fr deals Ohaus Tierney 193) The poparty ore amin.
‘ven the facts dat es snce baking i ota ted cooking method for che
Jipanee, mort Jpanee do nt oman oven a hoe and that second hey
‘bread ony forbes and nd not we for andwicher,
“ Dringa peta phenomenon now str fn mide school A Sale
"Tbh (penondl communication profeer at Harvard University, observed st
serazemet in the summer of 19942 rete percentage of Young peope walk it
arn Joan er han athe United Stes, any oer place nthe moet or
batter
“To give but one example llracng the power ofthe youth clare, I nocd
beeps elled "Elec Bal sla the fs coter of the Tikeshiaa Depart
‘men Stren Onks om September 2,99 To my astonitmen, hey were 0 for
Alcor bt for young people ws do nt wat wo mi + lephone cal fom tht
inend.Alheughyoungrrs under he ge of 18 are suposed to obtain pret)
perrisionopurchaue one of te beepers may youth ofthis age use therm The
Ue of thee beeper then eloquent apes ot only forthe eonome power of
Jan yoanpers bu aa he camps hr cltare Dept the mach publics
We Ear Bach Oter Fd to Now 69
“exminion al wich eine fh enacts ndeen ay of
Seem lng nd tk yale
owe px oop cach canted pencmenoa bara tea
‘some of McDonald's success (Burros 1994). - : ce
“2 dn be thats were pond ay lina hae hyd
‘etsy have prin aor pocket money. Daring hep eae a
Sie ork for en money acannon Foremost hee
‘chock suens sald aves pare fo poke money ial bee eae
“hs phenoneon abo ee changer ine emf aed ne see
spre fb ed 0b herwha keds lo is pbc
‘tsa waitin were never nee agra yao of ie ad
‘perc Eacrand Suck naga show cata bt hs dapper ngs
they are held as temporary jobs. we
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wn beer 1902"A Cla Act: Anropolg andthe Race 6 Nain
‘ace Eu Terain” ona Rese crn, ae
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‘Sonn Mond ie ede of Man Te Qavns ofS Nao
‘nian Sats Guay
‘Yeap Re. Se oe Sono Baku Cla Hit te
Pon We Di) Tnyr Sashes
‘an Yosag 97D eB The Loon of Aan” in
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Senter tery ro