Disclaimer

I the author am not responsible for any damages to property, any

bodily injury, or any loss of life or financial loss that may occur due to

using the information in this book. I am also NOT responsible for any
laws broken by your use of this information.

You are responsible for your own actions. If you break a window with

a hammer, that’s obviously your fault.

If a dog that you bought after being inspired by this guide bites

somebody, you’re responsible. If you wrap barbed wire around a 2x4

and hit someone with it, that’s your fault too.

Please, use common sense. This guide does not encourage illegal

activity of any kind, nor does it encourage setting any sort of trap for

another individual.

This guide for informational purposes only.

I am NOT legally responsible for anything you do with this

information.
 CONTENTS

Introduction
The Humble 2x4
Why the 2x4?
Doubles as a Weapon
Your House
Lighting and Shrubbery:
Probing:
Random Strangers/ Knockers:
Neighbors:
Doors and 2x4’s
The Door Bar
Back Door Wood
Screen/Storm doors
Strike plate/Hinge reinforcement
Door Guard Plates
Glass Sliding Doors
Porch lights and Door alarms
Windows and Nail holes
2x4 Wedge
Nails in Drill holes
Window safety tips
Tactics and Trickery
Call the “Po-lease”
“Lights out” Tactic
Slippery Floor
Safe Room
 Improvised Weapons
Anti-Creeper Window
The Mighty Pupper
Door/Window Routines
The Car Alarm Tactic
Give me A Sign
Neighborhood Watch
Bedroom Security

 Introduction

A 2x4 to many people might just be a piece of lumber. If they want home
security they’ll just go call a corporation to send out a technician to install a
state-of-the-art security system. They’ll be billed every single month for as long
as they require “peace of mind” and that will be all she wrote.
Another fee, and another monthly bill. That scenario is for those with disposable
income; people of middle and upper class. When you make less than $15,000
USD every single year, you cannot really afford to shell out cash at every single
whim. Chances are, you’re just like myself and most other hard working
Americans. You can barely afford to pay rent and you live from paycheck to
paycheck.
Life isn’t just come and go as you please. You’re struggling to provide for you
family. You don’t have the money to go out and buy a new security system.

Realistically, you don’t have to. Yes, burglaries are a very real situation. They
are quite common, often with the intruders being armed.
Your home could be broken into and you wouldn’t be able to really do anything
about it. What many home security companies don’t tell you, is that if the power
goes out then your home security system is rendered useless. Bet it wasn’t worth
that monthly price when it doesn’t even work. It has been shown as well that
some burglars “smash and grab” houses with alarm systems anyway. Cameras
are great, but if the intruder covers their faces, there isn’t much you can do
legally.
Most home invasions occur within 1 to 2 minutes. The average burglar spends
about 30 seconds in your house, meanwhile the police take at least 5 minutes to
respond with your home alarm system requiring an extra 30 to 45 seconds before
actually activating.
It's easy to see in this scenario why home alarm systems seem to be somewhat of
a waste of money.
If you’ve grown up poor and you've been in the poverty class, you've likely went
your whole entire life without any form of a security system and gotten by
unscathed.
While it is true that a good home security system will deter a lot of potential
burglars, the professional ones generally don't stay away.

You might be asking yourself, why this guide?

This guide was written mainly because the average door can be
kicked down in less than 10 seconds. Yes, this is with both deadbolt
and door knob locks engaged.
You might go out and buy chain locks and security latches and all this
other nonsense. The reality of those things are that they fail. The only
thing a chain lock provides is a false sense of security. Why waste
your precious money on all these things that don’t work? Any google
search will quickly back up my statement. Those things do not work
and are a waste of money. The more functional home security
products that do help prevent break-ins are well over the $100 range:
talk about cash grabbing.
What we’re not told is that you can prevent someone from kicking
your door in completely, all while spending less than $30; assuming
you have a drill handy(if not you’ll have to buy one) and maybe a
handsaw.
That’s where this guide comes in: to show the way of ingenuity.

You simply cannot afford to risk your family's lives on a security
system that gives criminals an extra forty-five seconds. You shouldn’t
have to be unprotected because of your income level, either.
It isn’t always just your valuables that intruders might want. Rape is a
common motive for many home invasions. Even worse than that is
murder, kidnapping and a whole slew of other nightmares.
To delay a home invasion is an appropriate response to these
situations, and could quite literally mean life or death.
By following this guide, you will be able to kick proof your doors,
and perhaps prevent a home invasion entirely.
That isn’t to say that home invasions will be out of the realm of
possibilities. That depends on the burglar, their equipment, the
circumstance and among other things, their determination. The 2x4
bar method is unsightly, yet is very effective for those not caring about
looking like a paranoid individual.
A 2x4 bar likely won’t withstand a chainsaw, but most burglars
luckily don’t carry one. That’s my only qualms about the bar method
though, and you can replace the lumber with a steel rod or pipe to
negate the risk of a chainsaw being used on your door.

In today’s society where mini sledgehammers can be obtained for less
than $20 and used to smash your door in, I think it’s time for a more
realistic and less money driven approach to home security.
You don’t have to spend $100 to kick proof your door, and you
shouldn’t have to.
Protecting your family and your domain is your natural right.

Why pay $100 on a security device when a 2x4 only costs less than
$8? The untreated ones are less than $3, why pay so much for an
oversized chain lock?
 The Humble 2x4
Your standard 2x4 is approximately 8’(2.43m) and usually made of pine. It’s
length can greatly exceed 8’ but this fact isn’t relevant. It could be treated which
usually entails a heftier price by a few dollars (which is just saying that it is more
resistant to rot than untreated wood is). What we’re looking at is one of the most
versatile pieces of wood in the world. Next time you go to your local home
department store, pick up a fine member of the 2x4 and smell its sweet wooden
smell. Yes, don’t be ashamed if other people look at you. Who gives a f**k what
they think, you’re in love with big wood.

Using a 2x4, you could quickly secure your entire home; that’s assuming you
have power tools like a drill, and something to cut the board with like a hand
saw. If you don’t, those things are inexpensive to pick up from your local
warehouse store. Corded drills and handsaws are relatively inexpensive so they
won’t cost a fortune to acquire, unlike the battery operated hand drills and power
saws. All in all, if you calculate the list below; the cost of having to buy every
single item as opposed to paying a continual monthly fee for the next decade,
you will quickly realize the cheaper option.
You don’t have to be a professional carpenter to install bar holders on either side
of your door and cut a 2x4 to fit the width. It’s not hard to do, and you’ll save
thousands of dollars. Plus, the bad guy will break his leg before he manages to
kick your door down; always fun to watch.

If you were to buy everything needed to beef up your home’s security on the
cheap, here would be the list:

(2) 2x4’s (1 2x4 per door, 1 2x4 per 2 windows)

Corded Hand drill
(2) Zinc Bar Holders (Per door)
Hand saw
Measuring Tape
3” #10 (Or Larger) screws
Drill Screwdriver Bits
Drill bit set
3” 8D Common Nails

Do note that if you have a screen/storm door you will most likely consider
buying “Hook and Eye latches” which are relatively inexpensive and cost less
than a couple dollars.

If buying “Anti Break Film” for sliding doors, glass windows, or another
entryway to your home, your cost could quickly elevate higher. These haven’t
been included on the list, as most homes do not have sliding doors.
 Why the 2x4?
There isn’t quite anything out there that is so affordable, sturdy, and versatile
like a piece of 2x4 lumber: that’s why. It can be everything from a window
wedge or a door bar and still be improvised as a makeshift club if need be. Your
Imagination is the limit here.
You can do nearly anything with it and that’s the beauty of it. It’s widely
available and extremely cheap.
If you’re worried about what other people might say about you having bar
holders on your door frame, then the only advice I can give you is stop worrying
about what other people think. It’s not about them and it never was.
Your home might look unsightly with a section of lumber behind your front
door, but that door is not going to be kicked in by some crackhead on bath salts
at 2 a.m. while you are asleep in your bed. Life’s too short to care about other
people’s opinions. If it looks stupid but it works; it ‘ain’t’ stupid. That’s our
motto with this book.

Doubles as a Weapon
Did I mention a 2x4 doubles as a club? It can deliver the force of a baseball bat
and costs significantly less with twice the durability. Sure, it might not fit
everybody’s hands but that can be fixed with a little whittling. You can do all
sorts of modifications to it for the sake of ‘decorational’ purposes. Mind you,
that actually using it as a weapon with modifications like nails, barbwire, or
glass shards super glued to it can be deemed premeditated assault in court; but it
damn sure looks cool. Take my advice, and don’t modify it if you’re going to use
it as a home defense weapon. They’re so cheap you can produce multiple clubs
and store them all over the house or in vehicles.
Note: If you use a modified 2x4 as a home defense weapon, see the
disclaimer at the start of this book.

 Your House
You could live in a mobile home in the country, in a mobile home park, or a
suburban neighborhood. You could live in low income housing, an apartment, or
in a small farm house in the woods. Where you call your home is your personal
preference; what is certain is that you also have the natural birth right to defend
that home as well. Let’s give a few pointers.

Lighting and Shrubbery:

-Make sure that lighting is adequate at night. Most homes have an outdoor light
near the front or back doors. Installing an energy saving light bulb that provides
light at night is both a security boost and a deterrent. Generally having a light on
outside discourages burglars and creeps in general from approaching your house
as they no longer have the cloak of darkness to their advantage.

- Shrubbery near windows or doors can aid the invader as it gives them a
place to crouch down and conceal themselves should a car pass by or a
neighbor come outside. It allows them to take their time and remain quiet
whilst they steadily work on gaining entry to your home. If you have
bushes growing near the window, consider removing them.

- Grow shrubbery that is thorny and unpleasant near your windows. This
will deter any potential invaders by causing pain and/or discomfort while
trying to find an entry point. This alone can easily deter a potential
invasion altogether, especially if the front door proved too difficult to
bypass.

- Motion lights can also be acquired from the internet, and can be both
affordable and reliable. They can be used to catch intruders off guard and
scare off anyone with bad intentions not wanting to be seen. Obviously the
electric motion lights need to be installed either by you or by an
electrician; they also cost money on the energy bill as well. The best
option for motion lights seems to be solar powered lights. Be sure when
mounting to place up high enough so they cannot be stolen or damaged by
thieves.
 - Trees can be climbed and may grant access to upper floors of your house,
or the roof. This can be further problematic if you have a skylight that can
be broken. Consider removing any trees that are adjacent to your house or
that have branches that extend to your roof.

Probing:
Probing is where a random flyer is left attached to your door, or you find a
cookie or some other breakable item under your doormat. To most, this
would be precarious but not at all suspicious enough for them to see the
motive behind it.
It’s a clever way criminals check to see if there are any occupants in the
house. If anyone has been living in the house, chances are they will
remove the flyer or step on the cookie. Within a few days after placing the
cookie, a thief will come back to see if the cookie is broken. If it is, they
will likely begin planning ways to get into the house.
Be sure and remove the cookie or flyer and notify local police of
suspicious activity in your area.
Random Strangers/ Knockers:
This goes without saying that you should never open your doors to
strangers. Most seem like they are harmless and so people open the door
anyway. The motive behind this isn’t usually what these people are letting
on. Most door knockers are trying to ‘probe’ your home. Either to see if
you’re actually home, or to get you to open the door and see what you
have in your house. They’ll often yell someone else’s name when
knocking, or pretend that they have the wrong house. Their behavior will
always be glancing around you and into your house to see any valuables
they might want later. Then, there’s the chance that they are fixing to kick
in your door and are just wanting to make sure you’re not home. Either
way, DO NOT open the door to anyone you are not expecting.
Neighbors:
Just because you live near someone does not mean that you have to get to know
them. You don’t have to be friends with anyone for living in close proximity to
them. You should however take note of anyone who is over friendly, or
seemingly nosey when they approach you. All too often these are both not
genuine behavior and are used as a ploy to gain your trust and information. If
you don’t know anybody, try to keep it that way. You want to keep your
relationships as acquaintances; just enough that your neighbor will be able to
identify you and those who live in the home. That way, suspicious activity will
likely be reported to the police by them.

Your door is often the first point of access into your home and is one of
the most commonly used entrances in a home invasion. It can be kicked in
within 10 seconds or less and the reason behind this is simple: the screws.
You heard me right. Your door strike plate is secured to the cheap wooden
door frame itself, rather than the studs beyond the door frame. It’s often
held in place with screws that are less than an inch in length. Why? Well,
obviously because the people who made the doorknobs were more
interested in making money than in your security; typical these days,
really.

You might want me to consider the fact that you have a single cylinder
deadbolt on your door. Okay, I did. That still doesn’t stop the home
intruder at all. Why? Again, because the deadbolt also uses tiny little
screws.

If you’re wondering how we can fix this problem, the answer is quite
simple: replace the screws with 3” heavy duty screws.
This reinforces the strike plate by using the frame of your house instead of
the frame of the door. This will delay the intruders at least 10-30 more
seconds.

Even after reinforcement, there are several weak points in the door beyond
just the strike plates of both the deadbolt and door knob. The hinges are
also guilty of using overly small screws and will also need to be
reinforced. 3” screws are your best bet and therefore should be used to
replace every visible screw involving your door entirely, minus the
doorknob and deadbolt screws within the mechanisms. Those are there for
a reason.

For the hinges you should take one screw out at a time and replace it with
a 3” screw. Do not remove all the screws at once or else you’ll have to go
through the trouble of remounting the door onto the frame.

Using these simple modifications, your door will be way more secure than
it was before. It will also be a little bit harder to kick in, too.
If you want complete security from kick-ins though, you’ll have to use the
bar method that is in the next chapter.
 Doors and 2x4’s
The Door Bar
is a method in which you’ll fasten (2) zinc bar holders on either side of the door
frame leveled across from each other. They will then be secured to the inner wall
studs of the frame by 3” screws which you’ll drill in place. Afterwards, simply
cut to length a section of 2x4 that is the width span between the zinc bar holders
so that each end of the board overhangs either side of the bar holders.

Heavily resistant to kick-ins. Make sure the board sits against the door.



Back Door Wood
Isn’t as provocative as it sounds and was used commonly back in the old
days by farmers and country people alike. It was basically a board cut to
fit the space between the door and a sturdy wall or obstacle. It prevents the
door from being opened, but doesn’t provide much security at the top of
the door. It’s by far the cheapest method of home security with a 2x4.

The board is laid on the floor and slid into place between the door and
wall. The less space, the shorter the board.
If it’s a snug fit then the board should prevent the door from being budged
altogether.
This method is definitely cumbersome and was most popular among
farmers who didn't use the backdoor to their house and so they wedged a
board between the two: hence the name.

Back door wood will get the job done, but can be cumbersome to remove
constantly; it may very well be a trip hazard.
It is better than nothing and therefore should be used if you have no other
way of beefing up your home, or don’t want to cause any damage to your
door frame. Maybe you live in an apartment; either way it works best if
you have a wall near the door.


Screen/Storm doors
Screen/Storm doors are extra layers of security as well as they help prevent rain
from getting underneath your door and cut energy heating and cooling costs.
Their latches and locks alone can be bypassed simply by prying the door open.
This is where “Hook and Eye latches” come into effect.

They help to reinforce your screen door to the frame of the house while
increasing the amount of noise and time it will take intruders to bypass your
storm door to get to your main door.
This method works best on storm doors as opposed to screen doors as screens
can be cut. You’ll have to predrill the holes in the designated locations in order
to reinforce the the doors resistance to prying. The latches are secured on the
inside of the door frame and the eyelets on the storm door itself.
This method ensures to make a hell of alot of noise when the latches finally give
way yet prevent the door latch from being the only defense since it’s so easily
defeated. A very cheap defense upgrade on home security. The inability to easily
bypass your first layer may deter potential intruders altogether.
 Strike plate/Hinge reinforcement
The main weak points in door entryways lie in where the door makes contact
with the frame. These are the hinges and the door strike plate; both require the
screws to be replaced with three-inch screws. The studs of the door frame itself
that is a part of the house are made of solid lumber: therefore reinforcing the
door using the frame of the house instead.
The frame from which your door hangs however is made of cheap wood, and
should not be relied upon for security as they are known to shatter under brute

force.

- Remove screws from the hinges one at a time while replacing each
removed small screw with a large #10 3” Torx Screw.
Adding extra hinges further increases strength and durability of the door
being seated onto the frame.

- Remove the small screws from the strike plate. (where the door latch
makes contact with the frame; that peculiar piece of metal you may or
may not already know about) Replace the small screws with #10 3”
Torx screws.

This extra reinforcement will further increase your door’s stability during
an attempted invasion, which will decrease their chances of breaking in
your door.
At the very least, it will prevent them from kicking it down within 10
seconds.
 Door Guard Plates
Door Guard Plates are steel plates that reinforce where the door knob and
deadbolt sit inside of the door. This are near the latch is known to shatter under
force causing the latch to give way and the door knob to fail.

Adding a door guard plate reinforces this area and allows the door to withstand
more force.
Plates can be found online or at your local hardware store and generally
expensive compared to simply barring the door. However, Guard plates used in
conjunction with extra door hinges and reinforced strike plates for both the
deadbolt and the knob will provide a great deal of durability to an assault on
your door. You may choose to go this route for the sake of aesthetics; yet the
door isn’t entirely pry proof or kick resistant as a door bar would provide. Guard
plates are an option that can be used alongside door bars and other
reinforcements for an extra layer of security or for when you’re away and not
able to bar the door.
 Glass Sliding Doors
From a security viewpoint, who the hell thought that building a door made of
glass was a good idea!? You have no privacy. You’re always having to cover the
door. It exponentially increases heating and cooling costs and is a terrible
security feature. If you have one of these doors in your home then anti-break
film is definitely a must. You’ll want 8 Mil film and the thickest you can find. If
you cannot afford film, then perhaps a cheap anti-break glass alarm and use a
wooden dowel or piece of lumber to wedge behind the sliding door to prevent it

from being opened.

By far one of the most unsafe doors a house could have. Given, they do look
nice and let in alot of sunlight.

To apply the wedge, cut a dowel or piece of board to the length of the space
between the sliding door and the frame.
Wedge the board or dowel between the frame of the door, at the bottom of the
track.

Hell, with a door like this you might as well invest in a home security system!
(I’m kidding by the way.)
 Porch lights and Door alarms
Not wanting to invest extra money into motion lights and fancy gizmos? Simply
turn on your porch light every night. It serves as both a deterrent and a means of
illumination. It’s best used in conjunction with energy saving bulbs and will have
to be switched off every morning; but you’re working with what you have and
that’s the smart way to look at it.

A great deterrent to home invasions are 120 decibel door alarms that when used
in conjunction with “Security system on premises” stickers strikes fear in home
intruders.

They are quite affordable and extremely loud. Sure to alert you to your door
being opened, and sending the home intruder fleeing into the night.
 Windows and Nail holes
2x4 Wedge

Functioning much like the Glass sliding door counter part or the back door
wood, the 2x4 window wedge is simply lodging a piece of lumber or wooden
dowel between the moving window and the frame itself: preventing it from
being opened.

To make the wedge, measure the space between the window from the frame to
the top of the moving panel. Cut the board/dowel to fit and make sure it fits
tight enough to prevent falling out yet is easy to remove.
 Nails in Drill holes

You can nail your window shut but still allow it to be opened in an emergency by
drilling out a hole right above the bottom pane at either corner. You’ll drill all the
way through the panel which will make a channel through both top and bottom
frames.

Remove the drill bit and insert a nail into the hole.
This method allows you to seal your windows but still provide extra security as
the window cannot simply be broken or the glass be cut with a glass cutter and
the latch unlocked. Rather, the burglar will have to figure out why the window
isn’t opening.

WARNING: Leave the nail head sticking out just a little so that it may be
pulled out quickly in an emergency situation such as a fire.
 Window safety tips
- Keep your windows covered with either a thick bed sheet, a curtain, or
blinds to prevent nosy creepers and potential intruders from spying on you
and your family.

- When using the nail method be sure to leave the nail head sticking out
enough where you can pull it out quickly, in case of emergencies. It’s a
fire hazard to seal your window completely.

- Anti-break film is a great extra layer for your home’s security as
windows are the second method to which home intruders gain entry
to your home. Combined with a vibration window alarm and the nail
method, your windows will be as nearly as impenetrable as you
could possibly make them.
(y'know aside from actually boarding the windows up…)

- Do not leave your blinds/curtains/sheets open at night or when you’re
gone as people can see in and spy on both your family and probe your
possessions.

- Always check the windows before you leave if you live in a house with
other people. The reason being is that you never know when a window
was opened last and so it is better to just check and be on the safe side.

- Do Not seal windows as a form of home security. Windows can be used
as emergency exits and should therefore be as accessible as possible.
 Tactics and Trickery
In this chapter we’re going to be getting into some rather unusual methods of
home security that aren’t for the serious of temperament. From having a plan of
retreat to calling the police; this is probably the most interesting part of the
book. We’re talking “Home Alone” type maneuvers and strategies to gain us the
advantage and turn the tide of the battle.
Or the more recommended method would be to hide and call the police. That
works too.

Call the “Po-lease”

While obvious, you should call the police as soon as you detect someone is
intruding in your home. The emergency operator is going to want to keep you
with the phone in one hand and in your ear. Do note, that if you’ve already
provided them with the address, there is no reason for you to remain on the
phone with them as you’re making noise and not remaining quietly hidden. You
can leave them on the phone and simply lay the phone down. It’s better for you
to keep both hands free of anything that you cannot protect yourself with.
Your phone will provide emergency services alone with an address so you don’t
really have to say anything.
If someone breaks into your house:

RUN/FIGHT/HIDE

- Immediately call 911
- Give your name, address, and situation.
- Find a room in your house with a sturdy door.
- Lock and/or barricade the door if possible.
- Arm yourself and remain quiet.
- Do NOT waste time with unnecessary questioning from dispatchers.
- Do NOT leave your safe zone to get a description of the intruders.
- Dispatch will almost always ask if the intruder has a weapon, provide
them information if you know it.
- Don’t make a lot of noise talking to dispatch. Remain as quiet as
possible and stay armed; Do NOT lay your weapon down until police
 arrive.
- Only fight the intruders if your life depends on it and Do NOT try to
reason with the intruders if they approach you; and if you have no
choice, fight with everything you have. Goudge the eyes, kick the
groin, punch the throat, whatever you deem necessary to survive and
neutralize the threat.
- DO NOT hide in a location where you cannot defend yourself from
such as a really cramped closet or space. If you have a baseball bat,
board, frying pan or other such weapon that requires room to swing,
DO NOT hide in a location that prevents you from doing so.
 “Lights out” Tactic
You likely know your own home better than the intruder. Once you make it to
your safe room and lock the door and having notified police, you can wait near
the door with a weapon and turn the lights out. If the intruders do manage to
make it through the door you can catch them off guard with a blow from your
weapon. If you have a firearm, you obviously can just shoot in their direction as
soon as the door opens.

You want the element of surprise here. It will give you a slight advantage if you
work fast with your blows. Be relentless and scream and make as much noise as
you can while striking them.
 Slippery Floor
Quick to utilize but makes one hell of a mess, the slippery floor has you covered
(pun intended) on cheap security. Basically if you find yourself in a room with a
hardwood/linoleum/tile floor and a bottle of cooking oil/mineral oil/laundry
detergent/liquid soap then you’ve all you need to pull a “Home Alone” tactic.
Basically just dump the liquid in front of the door and then lock the door. If they
manage to break through they will slip and fall; allowing you time to get away or
attack. If there is no other exit than the doorway you just covered with cooking
oil, then your best bet is to step on the fallen attacker.

This method is dangerous, and could very well result in both of you falling and
injuring one another. Only use if you have another escape route or are desperate.


Do remember you’ll have to clean it up later.
 Safe Room
The Ideal safe room will have a weapon and a lockable door. Having a backup
phone in this room isn’t a bad idea either.

You’ll want to flee to your safe room as soon as possible and be sure to barricade
the door as well if possible. You can use a 2x4 bar in this room as well. The goal
is to have a location to retreat to and wait for the police to arrive.

Another good idea is to keep most of your valuables in this room as well in order
to cut the burglar’s losses. Having a solid core door and reinforced hinges are a
good idea as well.
 Improvised Weapons
Pens, pencils, scissors, kitchen knives, hammers, boards, golf clubs, baseball
bats, heavy flashlights, etc. There are numerous options with which to arm
yourself. The possibilities are endless as your imagination.

Each weapon will have its advantages/disadvantages and you’ll have to factor in
the durability of the weapon.
The goal here is to inflict enough damage or pain to neutralize the threat should
they decide to attack you.
Blows to the neck, head or spine can be considered deadly force; therefore take
caution.

Chances are you’re sitting near something at this very moment that could
be used to:
- Stab/Slash,
- Strike
- Strangle
 - Bludgeon.



Categorize each object around you in this method to determine what could
be used as a weapon. If it doesn’t fall under any category, then it isn’t a
potential weapon.

Anything can be used as a weapon. For instance, you can drop your cell phone in
your sock for a flail-type weapon. You could break a leg off a table for a
makeshift club.


The important goal here is to have something to give you an advantage over your
attacker.
 Anti-Creeper Window
Take note that intentionally setting any trap for a human being is a serious crime
in nearly every country. This is for entertainment and informational purposes and
can easily result in you or someone you love stepping on it and getting hurt.

Story Time:
Now then, this method was used by a mother protecting her daughter from a
local pervert, and so inspired me to include it in my guide for the sake of
entertainment. Supposedly the daughter had complained of a man peeking into
her bedroom window randomly at night. The mother then nailed several nails
into a board and laid it on the ground outside of her daughter’s window.


She lightly covered it with dirt so as to cover the board but not cover the nails
protruding upright.
After several days, the mother found the board one morning laying in her yard;
to my knowledge that was the end of her daughter’s stalking incident.

Remember: Keep your curtains closed at night. Make sure your children do
the same.
 The Mighty Pupper

When you think of buying a dog for home security purposes, you naturally want
the biggest and baddest breed known to man. You want a rottweiler, or a
doberman or maybe a german shepherd. Realistically, the size of the dog or the
breed doesn’t determine it’s fight. I’ve personally known pitbulls that were big
babies that wouldn’t hurt a fly, and then had poodles that would tear my fingers
all to hell with their teeth just for trying to pet them.

It boils down to most of the more vicious dogs being breeds like the jack russell
and chihuahua. These dogs won’t strike fear into the hearts of home intruders,
but they can be vicious as all hell and make a lot of noise. Good luck getting a
Chihuahua to stop growling and barking. Maybe they are inherently born with
“little dog syndrome” and that’s why they try to compensate by being so fierce.
Whatever the case, little dogs are the best way to go.

Don’t buy a dog and put it on a chain outside all by itself for the rest of its life all
in the name of security. Nah, if you want serious protection then get a small
indoor dog.
Take note than having a small dog is still a pet, and so therefore you will have
vet bills and have to provide it with food and water. Dogs also provide the
benefit of companionship and love and should be bought for these reasons over
security purposes as they are living beings worthy of love just like the rest of us.
Chances are if the dog you have bonds with you, it will also protect you:
regardless of breed. Small dogs are easier to care for, but you shouldn’t overlook
larger dogs either.

Choose whatever dog you prefer. That’s your personal taste.
 Door/Window Routines
- Check your doors and windows every night before bed to ensure they
are locked.

- Check windows and doors before you leave the home and ensure they
are locked.

You should develop these habits in order to guarantee your family’s safety.
More often than not most home invasions occur through unlocked doors or
windows.

Be sure and inspect the door locks after a family member comes home.
Try to remind them to make it a habit to lock the door.

Remember: Your family's safety is your utmost priority above all else.
You must work together to ensure that your home is safe.
 The Car Alarm Tactic

If you’re fortunate enough to own a vehicle with a car alarm in it, then chances
are you also have a panic button. You can keep your car keys by your bedside
and set off the alarm on your car if you’re within range (depends on the size of
your house) allowing you to scare off any suspicious people near your house.
You don’t even have to go outside for this to work; you could activate the alarm
and let it go off for a few minutes.
It’s a cheap tactic but it works and that’s all that matters.
The car alarm will likely attract unwanted attention from the neighbors and scare
off anyone with bad intentions or whoever happens to be lurking nearby.
 Give me A Sign
Even if you don’t own a dog, putting up a cheap “Beware of Dog” sign from
your local hardware store will work as a deterrent in and of itself. If you do have
a dog, then having this sign in a visible location likely prevents the intruder from
suing you if he gets bitten after breaking in (stupid isn’t it?) and possibly injured
or killed by your dog.

A shame we live in a society where criminals can sue you for you defending
yourself in your own home. If you live in a state where you have “castle
doctrine” then you likely don’t have anything to worry about.

Having both “Home security system” and “Beware of dogs” are great deterrents
and relatively inexpensive. You can further add to the idea that you own a dog
(even if you don’t) by putting a ball in your front yard and putting a food bowl
on your front porch.

Remember: Dogs alone don’t prevent you from becoming a target.


Neighborhood Watch
Neighborhoods with “neighborhood watch” signs up serve as a deterrent in and
of themselves. It’s where neighbors watch out for each other and call the police
on the first sign of trouble or suspicious behavior. Living in a neighborhood like
this is a great idea, but generally seeing a street with a “watch” sign likely
indicates prior criminal activity in the area.

“Watches” don’t usually ensure you’ll be safe and shouldn’t be viewed in that
light. You’re responsible for your own safety at the end of the day, but knowing
that you have neighbors watching your house does provide some security: albeit
small.
If you live in an area like this, you likely already have top notch home security
measurements such as barred windows and steel security doors. Still, the 2x4
door bar will work in your favor.

You don’t need “neighborhood watch” though, you can simply make friendly
acquaintances with your local neighbors and express any suspicious activity
you’ve seen lately. Ask them to keep an eye out.
 Bedroom Security


You’re most vulnerable when you are asleep. It’s best to sleep in a bedroom with
a lockable door that has a solid core. You can bar the door, reinforce the hinges
or all of the above. You should keep a weapon in your bedroom, along with your
vehicle keys and a cell phone.

Don’t be afraid to invest in a solid core door if you can afford it. It isn’t
necessary but you can pick up a steel door at your local hardware store for under
$120 and can reinforce it with what you see fit.

The takeaway from all this is that your bedroom door is your second layer of
defense standing between you and potential danger. Why it’s worth investing in
is simply because of the question of “What will your spouse do if they are home
alone and asleep during a break in?”

Hollow or Solid?
If your bedroom door is already solid core, then you have nothing to worry
about. If you are not sure what type of door you have, knock on it. You’ll hear if
it’s hollow; and if you still can’t tell apply a little pressure to the center of the
door. If there is any give to the material then you have a hollow core door.

Remember: You don’t have to buy a new door because this book says so; the
investment in the long run seems like a good idea.
Copyright 2018 Micah Coulter
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