Crochet For Beginners

Crochet for Beginners
Complete Guide Step by Step with Pictures

Illustrations to learn Crocheting. The Easy Way
from A to Z with 18 Funny Amigurumi Patterns.
Emma Mistery
Text Copyright © Emma Mistery
All rights reserved. No part of this guide may be reproduced in any
form without permission in writing from the publisher except in the
case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
Legal & Disingle crochetlaimer
The information contained in this book and its contents is not

designed to replace or take the place of any form of medical or
professional advice; and is not meant to replace the need for
independent medical, financial, legal or other professional advice or
services, as may be required. The content and information in this
book has been provided for educational and entertainment purposes
only.
The content and information contained in this book has been

compiled from sources deemed reliable, and it is accurate to the best
of the Author's knowledge, information and belief. However, the
Author cannot guarantee its accuracy and validity and cannot be
held liable for any errors and/or omissions. Further, changes are
periodically made to this book as and when needed. Where
appropriate and/or necessary, you must consult a professional
(including but not limited to your doctor, attorney, financial advisor or
such other professional advisor) before using any of the suggested
remedies, techniques, or information in this book.
Upon using the contents and information contained in this book,

you agree to hold harmless the Author from and against any
damages, costs, and expenses, including any legal fees potentially
resulting from the application of any of the information provided by
this book. This disingle crochetlaimer applies to any loss, damages
or injury caused by the use and application, whether directly or
indirectly, of any advice or information presented, whether for breach
of contract, tort, negligence, personal injury, criminal intent, or under
any other cause of action.
You agree to accept all risks of using the information presented

inside this book.
You agree that by continuing to read this book, where appropriate
and/or necessary, you shall consult a professional (including but not
limited to your doctor, attorney, or financial advisor or such other
advisor as needed) before using any of the suggested remedies,
techniques, or information in this book.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Chapter 1: How to read and understand crochet
Chapter 2: Tools and material
Chapter 3: Understanding Pattern.
Chapter 4: Crochet terminology.
Chapter 5: Types of crochet
Basic and Advanced stitches:

Basic stitches
Advanced stitches
Starting and finishing project.

Chapter 6: Techniques and stitches
Techniques
Chapter 7: Patterns
Beginners
Intermediate
Advanced
Chapter 8: Special 19 amigurumi patterns
Unicorn
Bear
Cat
Dog
Elephan
Girffe
Hippo
Octopus
Lamb
Monkey
Owl.
Penguin.
Rabbit
Turtle
Viper
Fish
Zebra
Yak.
Chapter 9: Crochet tips and tricks.
FAQ
Conclusion
Introduction
Crocheting has a very good effect on someone’s insomnia. You
may have tried a lot of remedies to cure insomnia but they are all
fruitless. You may have tried herbal remedies, medication and even
music playing while you are trying to fall asleep, or you may have
tried to turn off the lights inside your bedroom, but again, they are all
fruitless. Then you may try crocheting as its health benefits include
treating insomnia.
Another benefit of crocheting is treating depression, stress and

anxiety. If you think your depression, etc. can no longer be cured,
then you are mistaken. You may try crocheting because that will
catch your attention and it will push your attention away from
negativity.
Crochet. Being a combination of loops blended together with a

hook, crochet is almost a lost hand-art that is now returning to the
scene as a lovely, viable, useful form of handwork and needle-art.
Crochet has been done for centuries by many to fill a need or desire.
It's been used for everything from clothing to household items to
decorative pieces; many pieces often having been framed for their
beauty. Unlike its sister hand-art, knitting, crocheting is impossible to
recreate by machine. It remains a pure form of hand needle-art.
This book contains all the information you need as a beginner to

get you started with crocheting.
Chapter 1: How to read and
understand crochet
Crochet is a form of craft in which a small hooked needle or rod is
used along with yarn to create items or sheets of fabric with different
textures and appearance through using different techniques.
The main differences between crochet and knitting are the types
of stitches and the techniques used. For instance, knitting
incorporates using two same size needles at the same time to work
the wool and create sheets of fabric at a time. With crochet, you only
use a single needle at one time as well as your hands. This also
means you only have one active stitch at a time, whereas in knitting
you have many active stitches at any one time which can make it
easier to accidently drop a stitch without noticing.
Crochet is also remarkably easier to pick up over knitting; crochet

has very simple beginner stitches which you can use even in the
early stages of learning to create cute and funky little objects. It is a
great encouragement for a beginner to see their hard work begin to
grow and take shape in front of them.
Chapter 2: Tools and material
Basics: You only need yarn/thread, crochet hooks and scissors to
start crocheting.
1. Yarn
You can use a variety of yarns to crochet but the type of yarn you
chose depends on the type of project. Crocheting can be done with
any yarn type. While you can use any type of yarn, as a starter, you
will find it best to use the yarn options we will outline below since
they are easier working with than others are.
Choosing the Best Yarn for Crochet
Fiber type
There are quite a number of options to choose from for both plant
and animal fibers. However, we will focus on the most common and
basic three: acrylic, cotton and wool.
You might be wondering how to know which type of fiber you are
working with but it’s really quite simple – the type of fiber is usually
listed on the yarn label. Although as you familiarize yourself with
crocheting, you will find yourself being able to identify the fiber type
by just handling or even looking at the yarn.
Acrylic yarn: Acrylic is generally a popular yarn among crochet

enthusiasts. It is usually among the affordable choices for yarn,
comes in a wide range of colors and is widely available. It is a great
choice for you as a beginner. However, you should be aware that
some acrylics that are among the cheapest split apart thereby
making it quite challenging to work with. This case is not usually
common but it happens. Therefore, if you are finding it hard working
with acrylic, switch to another brand or you can just use wool or
cotton instead.
Cotton yarn: It’s an inelastic fiber thereby making it a bit more

challenging to work with than wool. However, where you want the
item to hold its shape, this quality makes cotton a great choice for
specific projects. Although some may find it a bit more challenging
than wool, it is not that different at all and it is something you can
certainly try as a beginner. If you are crocheting during summer
where working with wool is unpleasant due to the heat, cotton is a
great choice since its lighter than wool.
Wool Yarn: Wool is the perfect choice for you to practice your
stitches. It is forgiving of mistakes and is a resilient fiber. If you
happen to make a mistake while crocheting, most wool yarns, are
easy to unravel and even re-use (in crochet, it’s called frogging).
Wool yarn is not suitable for those with wool allergies but for most, it
is a good crocheting choice.
Additional Yarn Tips and Considerations
Yarn weight: Yarns come in different thicknesses as well. This

thickness is what we refer to as weight. The yarn weight is usually
found on the label with numbers 1-7 (thinnest to thickest). It is
easiest working with a worsted weight yarn as a beginner.
Following is a list of the most-common yarn weights and their

core uses:
Super fine yarn, also known as 1-4 ply yarn, this type of
yarn is mostly used for socks, baby clothes and very fine
lace.
Fine yarn, also known as 5 ply yarn, commonly used for
baby clothes and sportswear.
Light yarn, also known as double knit (commonly known as
DK) or 8 ply yarn, this is the most-common yarn available
and is widely used in several types of patterns.
Medium yarn, also known as worsted, Aran or triple knit
yarn, commonly used for blankets, ponchos or thicker
clothing such as scarves.
Bulky yarn, also known as chunky or craft yarn, used for
cowls, scarves or for more sturdy craft projects such as
rugs.
Super bulky yarn, also known as roving yarn, can be used
for making baskets, bags and chunky clothing such as
warm winter hats.
Note: it is advisable using the right crochet hook size for the yarn
weight you will be using.
Yarn color: Choose lighter yarn colors rather than dark ones, as it
can get challenging to see your stitches if using yarns with dark
colors.
Yarn texture: Go for a smooth yarn and not the textured ones. As
you begin crocheting, avoid working with eyelash yarns. These and
other yarns that are textured are not easy working with and can
frustrate you.
Yarn yardage: Each ball of yarn has different yardage amounts,

which relates to the price. You can find 2 balls of yarn with the same
price; just check the yardage to ensure the amount of yarn in each
ball is approximately the same.
Yarn price: This varies significantly from brand to brand and fiber
to fiber. It is better to work on the affordable ones in order to get the
hang of it before spending so much money on yarns that are very
expensive. This is why acrylic, wool and cotton are the top fiber
choices, as they are very affordable.
Yarn color dye lot: To crochet a big project that will need more
than 1 ball of yarn, you want to ensure that all the colors match. You
do this by checking the “dye lot” to ensure the balls are from the
same lot number of the dye to make sure that they don’t have
noticeable differences.
Washing details: fiber types have different instructions for

washing. This is vital especially if you are making a cloth t be worn.
For instance, super-wash wool can be used as it’s safe for using in a
washing machine and a dryer. The yarn label contains this
information to aid in your selections.
2. Hooks
Crochet hooks come in a wide variety of types for you to choose

from. The most-common crochet hook is made out of wood, plastic
or aluminum; however, you can find older crochet hooks in second-
hand shops or online which are made out of ivory, steel or various
crystals such as agate.
You can also buy crochet hooks that have handles or grips. The
handles are typically made of either wood or plastic, and are usually
made around the crochet hook and cannot be bought separately.
You can also choose to make your own handles using polymer clay,
the purpose of the handle is to provide extra comfort when in use as
well as to provide support. The grips are almost always made of
rubber; you can buy these grips in craft stores or online which slide
right over your existing crochet hook.
When choosing a crochet hook you should go with what feels

best to you, some people prefer wood crochet hooks as they have
more of a natural grip to them while others find that wood hooks
catch too much on the yarn they are working with. It is all about
personal preference.
The average crochet hook works for anyone and it definitely

favors beginners. Crochet hooks are sold at yarn stores or any big
retailer of crafts. You can also get them online. Below are a some
things you need to know about crochet hooks:
Material: A basic crochet hook can be made of several common

materials such as bamboo, plastic and aluminum. Most people
usually choose aluminum crochet hooks for their first project. There
are also fancier crochet hooks made of wood, glass, and clay.
Size: The sizes of the hooks vary; they are measured in

numbers, letters or millimeters. For instance, a set of basic crochet
hook may start from E – J. A general-sized crochet hook is normally
H-8 5mm. Size E is smaller than size H, while size J is larger. As
mentioned earlier, you should match the crochet hook size with the
weight of your yarn, which is usually on the label of the yarn. For
most beginners, it is usually advisable to work with a crochet hook
size G or H and worsted weight yarn.
Crochet hooks can be found in a variety of sizes, all of which

have a number, letter, or both, indicating the size of the hook. The
information is usually found on the wider part of a crochet hook
either engraved or printed onto the hook. Please refer to the chart
below that includes both number and letter sizing for finding the
correct hook.
CROCHET HOOK SIZE

Metric US
2.25mm B-1
2.75mm C-2
3.25mm D-3
3.50mm E-4
3.75mm F-5
4.00mm G-6
5.00mm H-8
5.50mm I-9
6.00mm J-10
6.50mm K-10.5
8.00mm L-11
9.00mm M-13
10.00mm N-15
12.00mm P-16
STEEL CROCHET HOOK SIZE
Metric US
0.50mm 18
0.60mm 16
0.75mm 14
0.85mm 13
1.00mm 12
1.10mm 11
1.25mm 10
1.50mm 8
1.65mm 7
1.75mm 6
1.90mm 5
Hook throat: A throat of a crochet hook is either an inline or

tapered. This results in less or more flatness to the head of the hook.
Since none is better, if you are finding it hard working with one, just
give the other a try.
Types of Crochet Hooks
Let us now look at the various types of crochet hooks at your

disposal as you get started:
Thread Crochet Hooks

When you are using thread to crochet, the hook of the crochet is
same but it is quite smaller in comparison to the yarn hook. These
hooks are generally steel-made in order to prevent bending while
you crochet.
Light-up crochet hooks
If you suffer from insomnia or if you simply want to crochet in the

middle of the night without being a bother to anyone, then light-up
crochet hooks are what you need.
They light up at the tip so that it is easier to see where you are
going to insert the hook to crochet. They are typically regular crochet
hooks that light up.
Ergonomic crochet hooks

Sometimes it can become quite uncomfortable to crochet with
regular hooks for a lengthy time particularly if you suffer from some
conditions like arthritis or carpal tunnel. Fortunately, the ergonomic
crochet hooks, which have larger handles that are shaped to form a
grip which makes it easier to crochet for long.
Tunisian crochet hooks/ Afghan crochet hooks
Tunisian crochet uses a set of stitches that are completely

different from regular crocheting. The regular crochet hooks are
shorter than the Tunisian crochet hooks.
Knook
A knook is similar to a regular crochet hook but it has a small
hole drilled into one end where you insert the thread to hold stitches.
Other Tools You May Need
Scissors
Scissors are one of your basic tools you will need, when starting
out with crochet, any basic pair of scissors you have laying around
the house will work. However, it may be wise to invest in a pair of
craft scissors in the future for bigger projects or if you are using
thicker yarn.
Needles
If there is one thing you should definitely not forget to get when
starting up with crochet is a needle, and not just any needle either!
Unless you are working with very fine yarn, a regular needle will not
work. The correct type of needle that is required for working with
regular yarn is called a tapestry needle, also called a blunt needle.
This type of needle is a normal needle, but very chunky, the eye
of the needle is much larger allowing you to fit different varieties of
yarn through it; this is a very useful tool as it helps you to weave in
loose ends that are left at the end of projects.
Pompom makers
These funky little tools can add the final touches to a project, plus
they make your job quite a bit easier too! Pompom makers as
standard have three colorful rings which you can remove or add
based on the size of the pompom you are looking to make. You
simply wrap your yarn through the center of the tool and around the
edges till you cannot fit any more on, tie a knot and cut around the
outside edge of the pompom maker to be left with an adorable and
fluffy bobble.
Stitch counters
These handy little things, although typically for knitting, can

indeed be used for crochet. They become very useful when working
on larger projects; you can simply enter in the number of rows you
have completed to keep track of what you have done; this is
especially useful if you put your project down to walk away for a
while!
Storage/work box
The more equipment you gather, the more your need for
somewhere to store them! Any box will do in the beginning just to
keep everything in one place. However, the more hooks you will
inevitably collect and the more tools you gather, it could be worth
your time to invest in a proper storage box with separate
compartments or organize everything better. Not only will a storage
container keep your work area clean and tidy but also save you from
losing too many things! Those pesky tapestry needles disappear
very easily, and that is one thing you do not want to find in the middle
of the night with bare feet!
Chapter 3: Understanding Pattern
Patterns today are written instructions, often wrought with
abbreviations. Before, in the early days of crochet, patterns were the
actual crocheted item of someone else. For example, a lady wanted
to crochet a wrist cuff. A written pattern was not available. Instead,
she had to get an actual wrist cuff and painstakingly count the
stitches and copy them. Then came the scrapbooks. Fragments of
crocheted work were sewn on pieces of paper and bound together
like a scrapbook. Some had crocheted samples sewn onto larger
fabrics, while some were simply kept in a box or bag. Crochet stitch
samples were also made in long and narrow bands.
In 1824, the earliest crochet pattern was printed. The patterns
were for making purses from silver and gold threads.
Early crochet books from the 1800s were small. These may be
small (4 inches by 6 inches) but they contain a treasure of crochet
patterns for lace, cuffs, lace-like collars, insertions, caps (women’s,
men’s and children’s), purses and men’s slippers. It also contained
patterns for white crochet, which were for undergarment trimmings,
mats, edgings and insertions. The book recommended materials
such as cotton thread, hemp thread, spool yarn and linen thread.
Color work was done in chenille, wool and silk yarns, with the
occasional silver and gold threads.
The problem about these early patterns was its inaccuracy. For
example, the pattern is for an 8-point star, but would turn out to be
with only 6 points. These crochet books required the reader to rely
more on the woodwork illustrations of as a better guide.
Today, crochet patterns are more systematic, accurate and
organized. However, to the uninitiated, looking at a crochet pattern is
a lot like looking at letters and numbers with no idea what they
meant. Look for the meanings of the abbreviations, which are often
printed at the bottom of the pattern. I not, research some of the
abbreviations that are unfamiliar.
A crocheter needs to learn the abbreviations and the symbols
used in a crochet pattern. Without this knowledge, there will be a
very limited number of patterns that a crocheter can work with, as
most are written in the crochet language.
Here are a few things to remember when working with patterns:
Patterns are either made in rounds or rows. The pattern

will specify if using either or both.
Patterns come with a difficulty rating. Crocheters should
choose the level best suited to their abilities. That is,
beginners should stick to pattern suited for their level while
they are still familiarizing themselves with the terms and
techniques. Move to higher difficulty levels after gaining
enough experience and mastery of the required crochet
skills.
Always count the stitches made while working then after
reaching the end of the row or round.
Always check the gauge, especially if the project has to
turn out the exact size and shape as indicated in the
pattern.
Learning to read crochet patterns require practice and
experience. Be patient and don’t get this sc outraged.
How to read a crochet pattern?

Crochet patterns would often only list the abbreviations and the
number of stitches required for each row or round. Some patterns
would also use abbreviations for other instructions such as when to
turn or when to begin and end.
The simplest crochet pattern would look like this:
Row 1: Use a size E crochet hook, ch15, single crochet 2nd ch
from hook and for each ch, turn.
(14 single crochet)
This can look more like a foreign language to the uninitiated. This
is still the simplest of crochet patterns. Translated, the line means:
Row 1: With a crochet hook size E, make 15 chain stitches.
Starting on the 2nd stitch from the hook, make a single crochet stitch
across the chain stitches. Then make a turning stitch. by the end of
the row, there should be 12 single crochet stitches done.
Circle Patterns
Circles are also common in crochet. it starts with a center ring,
which is the foundation of all rounds, as foundation chain is to
working in rows. The center ring is created either by making a ring
from chain stitches or from in single chain stitch. The first method
creates a hole in the middle of the circle crochet work. The second
method has an inconspicuous middle.
Working with a hole as a center ring
This is the most common way of making a center ring. A row of
chain stitches is created then looped off to make a ring. The hole in
the middle is determined by how many chain stitches were made at
the beginning. It also determines how many stitches can be made
through the center ring. Avoid making the chain stitch too long
because the resulting ring would be too large and unsteady.
1. Ch6 (make 6 chain stitches).
2. Place the crochet hook into the 1st chain stitch, the one
farthest from the crochet hook and next to the slip knot. This
will now form a ring.
3. Do 1 yarn over.
4. Through the chain stitch and through the loop resting on the
crochet hook, pull the yarn. This completes the center ring
with a hole visible in the middle.
Working with a hole for a center is easy because the stitches are
made by going through the center hole instead of into the actual
chain stitches of the ring.
1. From the finished center ring above, make ch1 as a turning
chain to be used for the single crochet of the first row.
2. Place the crochet hook through the center ring.
3. Make 1 yo. Pull the wrapped yarn all the way through the
hole (center ring).
4. Make another yo and pull it through the 2 loops resting in
the crochet hook. This finishes 1 single crochet (single
crochet).
5. Continue making single crochet through the center hole until
it can’t fit anymore.
Working into the chain stitch
This is another way of working in rounds. This is used when the
pattern calls for a very small or barely noticeable center hole.
Generally, one starts with a slipknot and ch1, then add the number of
chain stitches required for a turning chain. For example, make 1
chain stitch then another 3 if using double crochet because the
turning chains for dc is 3 chain stitches.
1. Ch1.
2. If using dc, make ch3.
3. Perform 1 yarn over and place the hook into the center of
the 4th chain stitch from the hook. This is the 1st ch made
and is located next to the slipknot.
4. Make 1 double crochet into this chain stitch. continue
making dc on the other chain stitches.
To the uninitiated, a crochet pattern might look like it’s written in a

completely different language, and in a way, it is. Designers and
crocheters use a language of abbreviations and conventions that are
standardized, which makes it easy for anyone who understands this
language to follow a pattern. The following is a breakdown of the
most common ways information is relayed in a crochet pattern – and
what it all means.
Materials
The materials section is where the designer indicates everything the

crocheter will need to complete the pattern. This usually includes the
yarn, hook size, and any extra notions or items. Sometimes patterns
include the brand names of yarn or other items, but sometimes they
merely contain the type of item needed (Lion Brand Fishermen’s
Wool Yarn versus 100 percent worsted weight yarn, for example).
One important item to pay attention to in the materials section is the
amount of yarn needed; little is more frustrating that running out of
yarn in the middle of a project!
Gauge
Gauge is a dreaded word to even experienced crocheters, but it

doesn’t have to be. Put simply, gauge is the measurement of the
number of crochet stitches and rows per inch of fabric. Why is this
important? Because achieving the proper gauge ensures that the
finished item will turn out the correct size. Ignore gauge, and what’s
supposed to be a cropped, snug cardigan might become a
housedress.
A pattern will indicate gauge either over 1 inch or 4 inches of

stitches. For example, a gauge section might read: ‘3 stitches and 4
rows over 1 inch in single crochet.’ This means that if the crocheter
works a fabric in single crochet, he or she should have 3 stitches and
4 rows in every inch when using the hook size indicated in the
materials section.
Before beginning a project, the crocheter checks that they are

getting gauge by crocheting at least a 4-inch by 4-inch swatch in the
pattern stitch (in the previous example, single crochet), then blocking
it, then measuring it carefully. If the gauge matches that given, it’s
okay to start the project. If the gauge does not match, the crocheter
needs to change either the hook size or the yarn until they get
gauge. This is necessary because small differences in gauge can
equal big differences in a finished item: a row of 30 single crochet at
3 stitches per inch will be 10 inches long, whereas a row of 30 single
crochet at 4 stitches per inch will only be 7.5 inches long – not an
unimportant difference.
The crocheter should generally change the hook size before

changing the yarn. If the gauge is smaller than that given (e.g., 2
stitches per inch instead of 3), the hook is too large. If the gauge is
larger than that given (e.g., 4 stitches per inch instead of 3), the hook
is too small. Row gauge is much more adaptable in crochet, but the
crocheter should still aim to get the gauge of both.
Note that with some projects, gauge is more important than with
others. For items with a lot of shaping, including sweaters, mittens,
socks, and hats, gauge is critical. For items that are more ‘one size
fits all’, a small difference in gauge might be okay – a scarf that is an
inch wider than the designer intended isn’t necessarily the end of the
world.
Abbreviations
The abbreviations section includes all of the abbreviations used in

the pattern. Many times, this section includes instructions for working
special stitches. If a crocheter doesn’t understand some of the
stitches used in the pattern, the abbreviations section is a good
place to look for help. Many abbreviations are standardized, so as
crocheters gain practice reading patterns, they learn to immediately
recognize single crochet for single crochet, dc for double crochet,
and so on.
Instructions
The instructions are the meat of the pattern, the place where the
designer tells the crocheter what to do to make the item. For the
most part, designers are explicit – ‘Chain 3, work 3 for turning chain,
double crochet into third chain from hook’ – but a few common
shortcuts are used as well, including:
Asterisks – Asterisks are used to indicate repeats of sections of

patterns. A pattern might read: ‘Chain 1, slip stitch into second chain
from hook, *3 single crochet, ch 2, 3 single crochet*, repeat from * to
* three times, chain 1, turn’. The stitches within the asterisks are
repeated three times in the sequence they’re given after the first time
they’re worked. So, in total, the asterisk section would be repeated
four times.
Parentheses – Parentheses are used to indicate repeats, often

within asterisks. Changing the previous example, the crocheter might
see: ‘…*3 single crochet, (ch 2, single crochet) twice, 3single
crochet*, repeat from * to * three times.’ To work the directions inside
the asterisks, the crocheter would work 3 single crochet, 2 chains, 1
single crochet, 2 chains, 1 single crochet, then 3 more single
crochet. Then the crocheter would repeat the instructions inside the
asterisks the number of times called for.
Many crochet patterns are also broken down into rows (for flat
crochet) and rounds (for circular crochet). Pattern repeats are often
made up of a number of rows or rounds, which the designer will
indicate in the pattern. At the end of the pattern, the designer will
include any special finishing instructions, such as how to add
embellishments or borders.
New crocheters should remember that although these are common

conventions used in pattern writing, there are exceptions; designers
are individuals, and some have their own unique way of writing
instructions.
Chapter 4: Crochet terminology
Crochet terminology can be confusing for beginners when it
comes to the dissimilarity between the US and UK abbreviation.
Choose a pattern that is written on your language preference so that
you can get the right abbreviations that are most likely indicated in
the About Section.
Also, consider that pattern keys can be slightly written in different

ways; such as a term 3ch which means to make 3 chains can also
be written in ch3. When you get to be comfortable with the
abbreviations it will be easier for you to follow given the slight
changes.
Reading a crochet pattern is like learning a foreign language. It’s

quite tricky and given the abbreviations of crochet terms below you
may now start a basic pattern.
Basic Stitches Abbreviations: Meaning:
ch Chain
sc Single crochet stitch
dc Double crochet stitch
hdc Half double crochet stitch
tr Treble crochet stitch
sl st Slip Stitch
sp Space
ch sp Chain Space
When making a chain, you start with making a slip knot on the
hook. The second step will be pulling the yarn over from the back
and snatch it with a hook. Then drag the hooked yarn using a slip
knot onto the crochet hook, this step will make a single chain stitch.
Common Crochet Instructions and their Meanings
sk skip a stitch
increase; make two stitches in the
inc
same space
decrease; make two stitches
dec
combined together
RS right side
WS wrong side
Yo yarn over hook
beg beginning
blo back looks only; working with your
hooks only through the back loops
front loops only; working you’re your
flo
hooks only through the front loops.
alt alternate
approx approximate
bet between
bo bobble
BP back post
BPdc back post double crochet
CC contrasting colors
CL cluster
cont continue
dc2tog double crochet 2 stitches together
edc extended double crochet
esc extended single crochet
foll following
FP front post
lp loop
m marker
MC main color
pat/patt pattern
prev previous
rem remaining
rep repeat
rnd round
sk skip
sc2tog single crochet decrease
tch turning chain
tog together
yoh yarn over hook
* repeat the pattern
** repeat the pattern between asterisks.
{} [] () work with the pattern inside the
bracket/parentheses
You can now practice your skills in reading pattern abbreviations

with these sample pattern instructions.
Row 1: ch10; sc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.
It means that you'll make 10 chains first and after that you'll start
working with a single crochet stitch on the 3rd chain. Remember to
skip count the loop on the hook when counting the chains, you made
from the single crochet.
Now let's try a double crochet.

Row 1: ch20; dc in the 6th ch from hook and in ch across 19dc by
starting with a slip knot on the hook, you'll now create a 20 chains
and on the 6th chain from the hook you'll do a double crochet stitch
to the remaining 14 chains plus the 5 stitches that you skip will give
you 19 double crochet stitches.
Chapter 5: Types of crochet
Crochet has unique and different styles of stitches that make the
craft enjoyable and fun to work with. Some crochet types are
relatively old basic styles and generally used by most crochet
fanatics, but the innovation of new styles is continuous sl growing
even in the present.
With this being said, let’s check some types of Crochet that are
widely used in the craft industry.
Afghan Crochet
An Afghan Crochet is also known as Tunisian Crochet. Afghan

crochet typically starts with a series of basic chains and slip stitches
such as double crochet and half double crochet stitches, and they
are usually colorful. Working with afghan crochet needs a long hook
with a stopper. Some of the crafts usually made are scarves,
blankets, and knitted-like items.
Amigurumi Crochet
Art of crafting small stuffed toys or stuffed creatures made out of
crochet yarn is called Amigurumi; a crochet art originated from
Japan. The best yarn to use in making amigurumi crochet is either
acrylic or cotton. The technique usually used are just basic stitches
like single crochet stitch, a double crochet stitch, and an invisible
decrease. Hooks with small gauges or knitting needles are used to
make the amigurumi tight, allowing the stuff inside it to be on hold.
Some of the best-known projects made from Amigurumi crochet are
novelty cushions; children knitted stuffed toys and fan items.
Aran Crochet
An Aran Crochet is patterned in many textured stitches and

usually in solid colors interlocking cables. The techniques used in
making Aran crochet are basic stitches like a chain, slip stitch, slip
knot, single crochet and a double crochet. Socks, beanies, scarves
and sweaters and coats are the things that can be made out of Aran
Crochet.
Bosnian Crochet
When working this type of crochet, you can use Bosnian crochet
hooks that has a wide handle, and flat body or you can just simply
use the regular crochet hooks. It's a shallow kind of crochet that
originated from the country of Bosnia. It is also known by others as
Shepherd's Knitting, Muslim crochet, Old world crochet and many
more. It is very similar to knitting because it does create a knit-like
fabric. Beanies and scarves are the usual product that can be made
out of this though this crochet is somewhat time-consuming crochet
enthusiasts opt to make smaller items out of it.
Bullion Crochet
Bullion Crochet is typically used making stiff items like placemats
and also items that can be used as a decoration. It’s a kind of stitch
technique where the yarn is being rolled around the hook multiple
time and pulling it over at once forming a ball or roll of stitch.
Wrapping the yarn loosely will create lots of space between the yarn
over and the hook. Keep in mind that each time the yarn is wrapped
it should be of the same amount of tension. Work with it slowly. Lift
the yarns with your fingers as you pull through. Tapestry needle or a
latch hook can be used if you find difficulty in pulling the yarn. This
type of crochet is recommended for experienced crochet enthusiast
who loves to do challenging works.
Cro-Hook Crochet
Cro-Hook crochet uses a special type of hook that has a double-

ended clasp designed to make double-sided crochet. Two alternating
colors can be threaded concurrently that makes a beautiful color
work. It is also known as Cro-knit, and the style is very similar to
Tunisian Crochet. Wash clothes, baby blankets, and scarves can be
a great project out of this pattern.
Filet Crochet
Filet crochet only uses two stitch techniques that are chain stitch
and double crocheted stitch. It is also described as a grid crochet
patterned with a solid squares and open squares. The lacework is
done by double crochet stitches for the solid mesh set apart by
spaces or the open mesh. The guide used to make these crochets
are grids with open and solid spaces. Instruction and symbol charts
won't be needed. You can also insert an image on this type of
crochet. Handbags, cushions, jackets, kimonos, and baby blankets
can be made using filet crochet.
Finger Crochet
Finger crochet is the best option when working with a thicker

yarn; can be thick wool or thick cotton yarn. You can make string
bags with this crochet pattern, and can also be done with just your
fingers. You read it right! Finger crochet is done with just the use of
your fingers just like finger knitting. You can use basic stitches like
weave stitch and half double crochet stitches, make your pointy
fingers manipulate the yarn just like an actual crochet hook.
Freeform Crochet
It is a freestyle form of crochet where you don’t need to follow an

official guide or a pattern. Here you can show your artistic side and
do freeform. Start with making small and easy crafts for your
freeform crochet, making a plan does not mean following a set of
rules and guidelines but instead creating your own idea of what
project to make. Just go with your artsy instincts and let go of the
pressure of expectations. Don’t hesitate to take risks and make
mistakes. This is a freeform after all. Don't stop experimenting. You
can make art pieces project with these crochet pattern.
Hairpin Crochet
Hairpin lace is one of the distinctly beautiful variations of crochet.

You'll be required to use a hairpin lace loom which basically looks
like 2 vertical metal rods are being held across a bar. Working with
hairpin crochet you’ll be using a traditional hook and weave the yarn
in a hairpin lace loom, creating an eccentric art of crocheted fabric.
You’re going to work with a hook and a loom. Crochet hook will be
removed from time to time sliding it out of the loop, placing it to the
back of the work and re-inserting it as the hairpin lace loom will be
rotating towards you all throughout the process. Hairpin lace is
performed in strips; the strips are attached together to produce
bigger projects. Scarves, shawls, and wraps are best to work with
this pattern.
Tapestry Crochet
Also called Intarsia Crochet, Tapestry Crochet specializes in color

work. It may only require simple crochet stitches but working with
tapestry crochet involves the art of using lots of different yarn colors
which means a lot of interchanging color weave work is need to be
done. Stitches need to be tight so that the other colors will not be
visible overlapping through the top color. The crochet hook and yarn
should match very well, and the stitch should be tight. Imagery
based patterns and color work pieces are the projects that can be
created using tapestry crochet.
Symbol Crochet
You can find a variety of symbol crochet pattern in crochet books
by following the chart. You can make Motifs, Language Patterns, and
Intricate designs when working with chart crochet.
Stained glass crochet
If you wanted to make a handbag or other sturdy projects like

square mats with a stained-glass effect, you might want to start
learning the stained-glass crochet. It is a unique style of crochet
where the outer outline is usually styled with a black yarn to produce
a stained-glass effect. This project requires upper beginner’s skills.
Pineapple Crochet
Well, pineapple is cute and very refreshing in the eyes that's why
it is a very much-loved crochet design. The design can be replicated
and merge with another stitch pattern to produce a wide variety of
projects from scarves, dresses, and tops to doilies and even the
pineapple design itself. Pineapple crochets popularized during the
70s. It is well known as a kind of stitch and shape pattern that suits
the style of clothing and scarves.
Overlay Crochet
It was developed and introduced in the United States in 2003 by

an outstanding artist and jewelry maker Melody MacDuffee. This is a
new kind of technique. In doing this project you will need to use
many different colors of yarn. This type of crochet specializes in
changing colors on every layer. When doing this project, stiffer yarns
are of best options, and you will also do a lot of front and back post
stitches that will give the pattern a 3-Dimensional look. This modern
technique will make great potholders, handbags, and decorative wall
hangings.
Micro Crochet
Another trendy technique in the crochet community is the Micro

crochet. The pattern is commonly used in creating very tiny
embellishments and talismans and even fashion accessories like
earrings and key chains. Instead of yarns, in micro-crocheting, you
will need to use synthetic or cotton sewing threads and a thin crochet
hook that has a size of 1mm or a 0.5mm. Doing a micro-crochet
project requires a lot of patience as it will be a real hand work-out,
you may even experience cramps that requires a plenty of breaks
from time to time. A good ambiance of working place especially a
well-lit room as you will be working with tiny stitches.
Basic and Advanced stitches:

Basic stitches
Where to put the crochet hook
There are a wide variety of places in a chain where you can place
the crochet hook. This section will review the easiest and most-
common placement.
Below is a picture of what the top of a chain looks like along with
what the top of a single crochet looks like. There are two distinctive
loops on each. When crocheting any stitch unless specified by the
pattern you will always use both of these loops.
You will insert your hook through both of these loops; this should
look similar to the following picture:
Further on into this guide we will cover how to utilize both of those
loops in different ways. The only time the placement of your hook
can differ is when you start your work off. All projects start with a
chain, now as specified above you can indeed go through both loops
when working with the chain. However, it may be easier for
beginners to just practice by going through one of the loops only.
This makes the chain easier to work with as it can get a little fiddly
when you’ve just started.
How to chain
Chains are the most-common way to start off your project.

Chains are your first initial building block that you use to guide the
rest of your work, and luckily it is also one of the easiest crochet
techniques.
To chain, begin with your knot on the hook holding your yarn
gently, slide your hook up and wrap it round the yarn as shown
below:
Through the loop, now slide the yarn back down already on the
crochet hook and pull. The original knot should come off of your
hook and be underneath your first stitch.
To get the required amount of chain stitches, continue to repeat

these steps
How to do a single crochet
Single crochet is one of the most-used stitches. It the first basic

full stitch you will learn as it is very simple to complete, and many
patterns can be made entirely of this one type of crochet stitch.
To make a single crochet, insert your crochet hook in the

beginning chain:
Wrap the yarn on the hook, in the same way you would with a
chain, pull the yarn back through the stitch but do not go through the
loop you already have on the hook, you should now have two loops
on hook:
Now wrap the yarn back around the hook without going through a
stitch and through the two loops, pull it.
That is a basic single crochet, repeat these steps as required to

reach where the row ends.
How to do a turn on your work?
When you reach the end of a row of stitches and need to go the
other way, you cannot simply turn it around and keep going. If you
were to do this, your work would start to curl in on itself from the
tension of not having any slack.
To turn your work, you simply incorporate a single chain where the
rows end to do this you chain one simple stitch as shown below once
you reach the end of a row.
Once you have this chain, you can turn your work around to face the
opposite way and continue your work.
The amount of chains you put where rows stop can vary depending
on the type of stitch that you are doing. For example, with single
crochet you will usually add one single chain before turning, however
with the taller stitches such as double and treble crochet you may
add 2-4 chains when you turn.
The amount of chains you need to add when turning is usually

written in any good crochet pattern, this can be located at the end of
a rows description or if it is the same for every row it may be
specified in the pattern description.
How to slip stitch
Slip stitches are an extremely simple form of crochet. This stitch is

typically not used to crochet whole projects because it builds up very
slowly. It is a very tight stitch that can make your work quite stiff. This
type of stitch is frequently found on things like the rim of beanies to
make them grip your head better or on projects like pots and bags to
add stability and to ensure nothing falls through any gaps.
Slip stitches are also used to get from one side of your project to the
other without adding an extra row onto you work. This type of stitch
is also commonly used to attach two bits of crochet together as it
acts as a type of sewing.
To make a slip stitch, wrapping the yarn round the hook you insert
you crochet hook through a stitch and:
Pull it back through your stitch without pulling up a big loop, and then
take the yarn through the loop on your crochet hook and repeat as
required.
How to do a double crochet
The dc is the hardest stitch that you will learn in this guide, but don’t
worry with practice it will become easier.
The dc is essentially the same as a single crochet with an extra few

easy steps. The main difference in their appearance is that the dc is
considerably taller than a single crochet, which means that this stitch
can make your work grow very fast as the stitches you are using are
larger. Another difference in their appearance is how they look
altogether, single crochet stitches are very close together which
creates a block of fabric which you can barely see through, double
crochet, on the other hand, is a lot more open. This means that there
will be gaps in your work, because of this; double crochet is a
popular choice for granny squares “which intentionally have gaps in
them” or lightweight scarves and blankets.
To begin, instead of putting your yarn into a stitch, wrap the yarn
across the hook instead. This should leave you with two strands or
loops of wool on a hook.
Into the stitch, now insert your hook and pull the yarn through in the
same way as you would with a single crochet which should leave
you with three twists on a hook.
Now yarn over and through it, pull only 2 of the loops which are on
the hook, yarn over once again and pull in the remaining loop.
And there you go! One completed double crochet stitch.
Advanced stitches
Pineapple Lace
This is different from the fruit which it is named after and its made
up of the simplest stitches though it looks so fancy.
Bullion Stitch
Go with the bullion stitch if you want a stitch whose texture is
heavy. Pulling the hook through them all at one and working which
quite big amounts of yarn overs, you will get lots of yarn bursts which
are almost like 3D.
Loop Stitch
We expect the loop stitch to get its shinning moment since

tassels are having a moment, It’s a fur on adorable amigurumi
projects and great at embellishing accessories and pillows.
Crocodile Stitch
This crocodile stitch know how to make a splach though its so
new to the world of crochet. And to give more stability to everything,
you work the scales over a background of mesh. It can be useful in
making jewelry, edgings and pillows.
Starting and finishing project
Starting project
Before making any stitches, it’s important to understand how to hold
a crochet hook. Part of this is determined by handedness; left-
handed individuals don’t have to learn to crochet in the typical
manner (i.e., holding the hook in the right hand), but they should
keep in mind that most patterns are written for right-handed
crocheters. This may make it worthwhile to learn to crochet with the
right hand, but directions can be reversed with practice, so left-
handers are under no duress to use their non-dominant hand.
Because the majority of individuals are right-handed, this work
focuses on learning to crochet with the right hand.
Ways to hold a crochet hook are numerous, but the two most
common are referred to as the knife hold and the pencil hold. Neither
is better than the other, only different. New crocheters are
encouraged to try both holds to find the one that is the most
comfortable for them.
With the knife hold, the hand faces downward with the hook under
the palm, much the way one would hold a knife. The pencil hold is
the opposite: The palm faces upward with the hook grasped between
the thumb and two forefingers, like holding a pencil.
Finishing project.
Properly finishing a crocheted piece is important for several reasons.
First, the finishing process will settle the stitches, giving the piece a
professional look. Second, finishing allows the crocheter to form the
piece into the correct shape and straighten any shaping issues.
Third, finishing items properly makes seaming and adding
embellishments easier. Any way you look at it, then, finishing is a
necessary part of the crocheting process.
The two main steps in finishing are weaving in the yarn ends and
blocking. While many crafters don’t see either process as particularly
‘fun’, learning to perform them properly does take some of the
anxiety out of the work. Hopefully, after finishing a few projects,
blocking and weaving in ends will start to feel like just one more step
in a crochet project.
Weaving in ends
Every piece will have a yarn tail at the beginning and end of the
work. Those crochet projects that have multiple yarn joins or colors
will have more. For projects with many yarn tails, yarn ends should
be woven in during the crocheting if at all possible, simply because
leaving them all to the end can make the weaving process seem like
a herculean task. The crocheter should also always leave at least a
6-inch tail of yarn; any shorter, and it may be too difficult to ‘hide’ the
yarn inside the work.
In crocheting, there are two popular methods of weaving in ends:

crocheting over them and weaving them in with a yarn needle. Both
ways give desirable results, so it’s up to crocheters to decide which
method they prefer. New crocheters should remember, however, that
if their favorite method isn’t working for a project, it’s okay to try the
other way.
Crocheting over yarn ends is performed exactly as it sounds: The

crocheter places the yarn tail along the row of crochet stitches being
worked and crochets over it with the stitches. Many crocheters prefer
this method simply because it doesn’t leave the yarn tails to the end
of the project. Of course, crocheting over yarn ends can also be
tricky – circular motifs with many open areas, for example, might not
lend themselves to this method. In these cases, it’s also possible to
crochet the yarn tail into the piece; the tail is held along with the
working yarn and the crocheter works as normal until the tail is used
up.
Above: Crocheting over yarn ends
Weaving in ends with a yarn needle can take longer, but it is a useful
method to know for hiding ends in ‘tricky’ areas. The goal is to
secure the end as much as possible while ensuring that it can’t be
seen. The end should always be woven into the wrong side of the
work; for works that have no ‘wrong’ side (such as scarves), the
crocheter will have to choose a side.
To weave in the end with a yarn needle, the crocheter can run the
yarn under a line of stitches for about an inch or so. Then, instead of
snipping the yarn, the crocheter runs the tail back under half of the
stitches. Before snipping the yarn, it’s also helpful to pull the end taut
so that it springs into position under the stitches.
Above: Weaving in Ends With Yarn Needle
Chapter 6: Techniques and stitches
Stitches
Techniques have evolved over the course of crochet history. For
example, in 1824vto 1833, stitches were made by holding both the
yarn and hook in the right hand. The yarn is passed from the
forefinger of the right hand and over the hook. Then, by the 19402,
the left hand held the yarn and the right hand held the hook. Stitches
were made the same way it is done today.
There are lots of stitches used in crochet. There are the basic,
single, double, triple and triple crochet. There are also fancier ones
such as the granny stitch. There are also more intricate ones out
there. For beginners and for most other projects, the basic stitches
are already sufficient.
How to make a slip knot
No matter how simple or fancy a crochet project is, everything

starts with the slip knot.
Take the tail end of the yarn and pull out approximately 10-
12 inches.
Make a small loop with the tail end. Fold the working end
(end of the yarn connected to the rest of the ball) of the
yarn over the tail end (cut end) to form an x. Pinch the
bottom of this loop.
About 2 inches away from the first loop, make another loop
(smaller loop). Pinch the bottom, too.
Insert the 2nd (smaller loop) into the 1st loop.
Pull the loop tight but leave enough room for the crocheting
hook.
Into the loop, put the hook. Pull the loop until the hook is
snug between it.
Chain Stitch (ch)
The chain stitch is one the basic stitches in crochet. this is often
used as the starting or foundation chain.
Hold the crochet hook comfortably with the dominant

hand.
Make a slip knot.
With the hook on the slipknot, make a yarn over and pull
it via the slipknot. This is the 1st chain stitch.
Repeat the above step until the number of required
chain stitches is made.
Keep the last loop of the chain stitch on the hook before
proceeding.
Single Crochet (single crochet)
Single crochet is one of the most basic and easiest crochet

stitches to learn. It can be used to create rows or as a basis for more
complicated stitches.
1. Make a foundation chain. Keep the last loop on the hook.
2. Start making a single crochet on the 2nd chain from the one
on the hook.
3. Insert a hook into the center of the 2nd chain stitch.
4. Make a yarn over and pull it through the chain stitch. There
should be 2 loops on the hook by this time.
5. Make another yarn over and pull the yarn through the 2
loops on the hook.
6. One single crochet stitch has just been made.
7. Continue down the length of the chain.
8. When row’s end is reached, make 1 last chain stitch and
keep the loop on the hook.
Half-Double Crochet (hdc)
Half-double crochet provides a good texture to crochet fabric. It

also adds appeal to the crochet work. The height is somewhere in
between the single crochet and the double crochet. The fabric it
produced is fairly tight, like one made with single crochet.
1. Begin with a row of chain stitches. Keep the last loop on the
chain.
2. Start a half double crochet on the 3rd chain from the hook.
The 1st 2 chains will count as the 1st hdc.
3. Over the hook, wrap the yarn.
4. Skip the 1st 2 chain stitches and put the hook into the 3rd
one.
5. Once inserted, use the hook to grab the yarn and make a
yarn over.
6. through the loop, pull the yarn of the chain stitch. There
should be 3 loops resting on the crochet hook.
7. Make another yarn over by wrapping the yarn over the
hook. Pull the yarn through all of the 3 loops onto the crochet
hook. One hdc has just been made.
8. Repeat the steps until all the chain stitches have been used.
9. When reaching the row’s end, make 1 last hdc then 2 chain
stitches. The chain stitches will be the turning chain.
Double Crochet (dc)
The height of a double crochet (dc) is twice that of a single

crochet. Fabric made from this stitch is solid and not stiff. This stitch
is often used for afghans, sweaters, placemats and shawls. It is also
a popular stitch for decorative items for the home.
1. Make 15 chain stitches as foundation.
2. Add 3 more chain stitches. This additional ch would become
the turning chain. This is also counted as the 1st double
crochet.
3. Do a yarn over (yo) in a back to front direction?
4. Between the front 2 loops of the 4th chain stitch from the
hook, Insert the crochet hook, then under the back bump.
5. Perform another yo then carefully and through the chain
stitch’s center, draw the yarn There should be 3 loops resting
on the crochet hook.
6. Do another yarn over.
7. Pull the yarn through the 1st 2 loops.
8. Make another yo and draw the yo through all of the
remaining loops which are on the hook. One dc has just
been made.
9. Continue across the foundation chain. When the row is
done, there should be 16 dc.
10. If making another dc row, make 3 chain stitches after the
last dc. This will be the turning chain.
11. Make a yo. Skip the 1st dc of the row and insert into the
center of the 2nd dc, the crochet hook
12. Repeat the steps in creating dc until all the dc n the earlier
row has been stitched into.
Triple Crochet / Treble Crochet (tr)
This stitch is 3 times taller than a single crochet. It produces

longer opening in between the stitches. The fabric produced is very
loose.
1. Make 15 ch (chain stitches) for the foundation chain.
2. Make 4 more chain stitches. This will be the turning chain
and will be counted as the 1st tr.
3. Perform a yo twice.
4. Insert the hook into the center of the 5th chain from the
hook.
5. Make another yarn over and pull through the chain stitch’s
center. There should be 4 loops resting on the crochet hook.
6. Perform another yo and pull it through the 1st 2 loops resting
on the crochet hook.
7. Draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook. Perform
another yo
8. Perform another yo and pull it through all the remaining
loops.
9. Perform 2 yarn overs and insert the hook into the next chain
stitch. one tr has just been made.
10. Continue along the chain stitch until the very last one. Then
make 4 chain stitches to serve as the turning chain.
11. Make 2 yarn overs and put the hook into the 2nd tr of the
previous row.
12. Proceed to making tr across the previous row.
Double Triple Crochet (dtr)
This stitch creates a loose fabric full of large holes. This is more
often used when creating lace designs such as doilies. Other crochet
patterns using fine cotton are ideal for this type of crochet stitch.
1. Create a foundation chain of 15 ch.
2. Add 5 ch more for the turning chain.
3. Perform 3 yarn overs and put the hook into the center of the
6th chain after the hook.
4. Perform 1 yo and pull it through the chain stitch’s center.
5. Make 1 yo and on the crochet hook, pull it through the 1st 2
loops.
6. Continue making 1 yarn over and pulling it through the 2
loops until only 1 loop is left on the hook. One dtr has just
been made.
7. Make another 3 yo to begin another dtr. Continue until all ch
in the foundation have been stitched.
8. When all ch is done, make 5 ch for the turning chain. Make
3 yo and insert into the 2nd dtr of the 1st row.
9. Continue along each dtr of the 1st row.
Slip Stitch (sl st)
A stitch that is slip is the smallest and flattest of all basic crochet
stitches. It has various uses in crochet projects. Here are some of
the most common uses for the sl st:
Join different crochet work (or separate portions of a

larger pattern)
Join other crochet stitches to form a ring
Join one end of a round to the beginning of a new round
Scattered across a pattern to create a design element
For surface crochet to outline or place embellishments
Edgings
To make slip stitch:

1. Make ch6.
2. Place the crochet hook through the center of the 1st ch
made, the one that is farthest from the hook and is next to
the slip knot. This will form a ring. If a ring is not intended,
place the hook through the 2nd chain next to the loop
currently on the hook.
3. On the crochet hook, wrap the yarn in a back to front
direction. Rotate the hook’s throat so that it will face the
crocheter.
4. Apply gentle upward pressure on the hook while pulling the
wrapped yarn through the stitch then through the loop resting
on the hook. A slip stitch has just been made.
Techniques
Increasing stitches
Increasing crochet stitches comes in very handy once you're

ready to start shaping your projects. This is done in the following
way:
1. Make two chains on my hook.

2. Single crochet for two times in the second chain from the
hook
3. Do another single crochet into that same stitch. So doing
two single crochet stitches in one stitch results in an overall
increase to our row count of one stitch.
4. Chain and turn. Do single crochet twice in that same stitch
that lets you create a very visually pleasing wedge shape.
Decreasing stitches
A single crochet decrease is a stitch you'll come across a lot

especially if you do things like amigurumi or basic accessories.
1. Basically what you do is you single crochet along in your

row just like you would do any other time.
2. Skip the next two chains, put your hook through the next
chain, yarn over and bring it back through. So there will be
2 loops on the hook, go through the next chain, yarn over.
Now there are three loops on a crochet hook, yarn over and
draw that working yarn through all three of those loops at
once. So what you have done is worked two single crochet
stitches together reducing your overall row count by one.
Magic knot
This is a technique I've been using for a long time, and it takes a
while to get a feel for it. People also complain that the magic knot
needs enough of a tail that it's hard to use in a crocheted piece, so
I'm going to tell you to do the magic knot.
1. Suppose you have a little sample of some single crochet

and you want to change the color for the next row. So take
your hook out, hold the yarn at ends and pull it out a couple
of stitches (two or three would be fine).
2. Take your scissors and cut it off to have a little tail.
3. Take your new yarn; take your old yarn on the left and your
new yarn on the right hand. Put them together so that you
have little tails poking up.
4. Take your new yarn; wrap it around your thumb once, wrap
it again above the other one put it on the right over the top
of your tails (of both yarn).
5. Take those tails to tuck them tightly and tie them in a little
knot. If you make a good tug and it would not come out.
6. Get your hook, and you start crocheting back.
Changing yarn color at the end of the row
Make a slip stitch, but it would produce so many tails. An

alternative option is to make a slip knot as I described above; the
advantage of this method is that it would give only two tails
throughout your pattern that you can fasten it off easily. But, make
sure your slip knot should be nice and tight so that it would not be
visible.
Chapter 7: Patterns
Beginners
Crochet Scarf
Items.
Yarn
Hook
Instructions.
CH 62
Row 1: Do a half double crochet in the 3rd chain from the hook.
Continue across with the HDCs to the end. CH 2 and turn.
Row 2: (Chain 2 also counts as a half double crochet) HDC
across in every stitch. CH 2 and turn.
Row 3 – 7: Repeat row 2 and tie off
Note: Row 7 is where you can add another color if you want to
give a small contrast
Seaming:
Make one twist in your scarf. Place both the flat and short ends
together. Seam the 2 ends together with your long tail and tapestry
needle. Weave in the ends and you are done.
Ribbed Boot Cuffs
Items.
Yarn
Yarn needle
5.50 mm/ I hook
Instructions
Gauge: 14 st x 17 r = 4" in back loop single crochet
Ch 19
Row 1: Single crochet in the second chain from your hook and in
each chain stitch across (18)
Row 2: Chain 1, turn and back loop single crochet in each stitch
across (18)
Repeat row 2 until the piece measures 8" across (without being
stretched) or until you achieve your desired length.
Ch 1 and insert the hook through the 1st stitch on both edges
then slip stitch to join the edges of the boot cuff.
Repeat procedure all the way down the side. Cut the yarn and
weave in the ends. Repeat to make the other boot cuff.
Leg Warmers
Items.
6 mm crochet hook
2-3 skeins
Darning needle
Scissors
Instructions.
Ch 35
Join with a slip stitch to the 1st chain. Ensure that your chain is
not twisted.
Row 1: Chain 3 and double crochet into each chain then join to
the 3rd chain with a slip stitch.
Row 2-28: Chain 3 and double crochet into each stitch. Join to
the third chain with a slip stitch.
Bind off and weave in the ends.
Intermediate
Materials:
G hook
Measures 3.5 inches x 3.5 inches
Row 1: Chain 18 + 2 = 20
Work dc at the hook’s 5th chain, dc in each ch across. Turn

Row 2: With New Color of yarn, sl st into the chain 5th chain
space or tie a knot into that chain space, ch 3, skip 3 dc, sc in the in
the next dc, ,*ch 2, skip 3 dc, sc in the in the next dc, *Repeat
across, fasten it off.
Row 3: With other Yarn Color, ch 3, *work 3 dc in the chain 2

space, *Repeat across. at the end, dc on top of the chain 3.
This Type of stitch is done in Multiples of 3. The Granny Stripe

Stitch is great for Blankets/Afghans.
Blanket = 120 plus 2 for Turning, H or I Hook.
Chain 24 plus 2 = 26
Use an H hook and Medium worsted yarn.
sc at the hook’s 2nd chain, sc in each chain across.
Row 1: Ch 3, Turn, dc in the same ch space, sk 2 ch, 3 dc in the

next sc, *sk 2 ch, 3 dc in the next sc, *Repeat until end. 2 dc in the
last sc.
Row 2: Ch 3, Turn, *work 3 dc in the skip 2 ch space, *Repeat

across, at the end, dc on top of the previous ch 3.
Row 3: Ch 3, Turn, dc in the same stitch as ch 3, *work 3 dc in

the skip 2 ch space, *Repeat across, at the end, 2 dc at the end.
Alternate between Row 2 and Row 3.
Shell Stitch is done in Multiple of 6 plus 2
Chain 26 = Chain 24 plus 2 or Turning Chain.
Row 1: Sc at the hook’s 2nd chain, skip two chains, dc in the 3rd
chain, work 4 more dc, skip two chains, sc in the next, *skip two
stitches, work 5 dc in the following stitch, skip two stitches, sc in the
next, *Repeat to the finish. (total of 4 shells), 3 chains left, insert
hook in the last chain, sc, Change colors if you like to change colors
Row 2: Turn, chain 1, work 3 dc in the same beginning stitch, sk

2 st, sc, *sk 2 st, work 5 dc next stitch, sk 2 stitches, sc in the next.
*Repeat to the end, 3 dc in the last stitch, sc at the end. Ch 1. Turn.
Change Color
Row 3: Skip 3 chains, work 5 dc in the next stitch, sk 2 st, sc in

the next, sk 2 in the next st, work 5 dc in the next, *Repeat at the
end. skip 2 stitches, sc in the last stitch, Ch 1, Turn
Alternate between Row 2 and Row 3.

Advanced
Making a one crochet decrease
Into the first stitch, insert the hook. Yarn, then draw back through
the stitch. Do not complete the stitch as normal.
Get the hook and then insert in the following stitch. Yarn and
draw into the stitch. The hook now has 3 loops.
Yarn and then draw over the 3 loops.
You have now crocheted 2 stitches into 1 and completed the

single crochet decrease.
Chapter 8: Special 18 amigurumi
patterns
Unicorn
Body:
With White yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1, create 10 round single
stitches, join to first single stitch, ch 1.
Round 2: 2 single stitch in every stitch arnd, join, ch 1. (20 sts)
Round 3: *2 single stitches in the stitch that followsitch, single
stitch in the stitch that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (30
sts)
Round 4: single stitch in every stitch arnd, join, ch 1.
stitch in 2 stitches that follow, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (40 sts)
Round 7: *2 single stitches in the stitch that followsitch, stitch in
next 3 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (50 sts)
Rounds 8–19: single stitch in every stitch arnd, join, ch 1.
Round 20: * single crochet decrease, stitch in next 3 sts, repeat
from * arnd, join, ch 1. (40 sts)
Round 26: * single crochet decrease, single stitches in the stitch
that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (20 sts)
Round 29: Sc2tog arnd, join. (10 sts)
Fasten and leave a tail and stuff, leaving top open.
Head:
sts)
Round 18: * single crochet decrease stitch in next 2 sts, repeat
Round 20: *Sc2tog, single stitch in the stitch that followsitch,
repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (20 sts)
At this point attach the safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10
(about 9 stitches apart). Then stuff before closing the head.
Round 22: Sc2tog arnd, join, ch 1. (10 sts)
Round 23: Sc2tog arnd, join. (5 sts)
Fasten and leave a long tail.
Use long tail to close final round and weave in ends.
Use long tail of body to sew on head.
Snout:
sts)
Stuff and sew onto front of head, directly under eyes.
Legs (make 2):
With Baby Pink yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 6 6
round single stitches, join to first single stitch, ch 1.
Round 3: 2 dc in first 3 sts, 2 hdc in next 2 sts, 2 stitch in next 5
sts, 2 hdc in last 2 sts, join, ch 1. (24 sts)
Round 4: Working in back loops only for this round, single stitch
in every stitch arnd, join, change to White yarn, ch 1.
Round 7: Sc2tog 6 times, sc in remaining 12 sts, join, ch 1. (18
sts)
sts)
Fasten and leave a long tail and stuff.
Sew the tail onto bottom of body.
Arms (make 2):
With Baby Pink yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1, create 10 round
single stitches, join to first single stitch, ch 1.
sts)
Round 5: *Sc2tog, stitch in next 3 sts, repeat from * arnd, join,
change to White yarn, ch 1. (12 sts)
Flatten opening and Sew the tail onto body under the head.
Ears (make 2):
With White yarn, ch 5, single stitch in second ch after hook and in
remaining 3 chs, chain 1, turn. (4 sts)
Row 2: 2 single stitches in first st, stitch in next 2 sts, 2 single
stitches in last st, chain 1, turn. (6 sts)
Rows 3–5: single stitch in every stitch across, chain 1, turn.
Row 6: Sc2tog, stitch in next 2 sts, single crochet decrease chain
1, turn. (4 sts)
Row 7: single stitch in every stitch across, chain 1, turn.
Row 8: Sc2tog twice, then continue to sc arnd entire ear, join to
the second sc, causing the ear to cup.
Fasten and leave a long tail and sew onto head.
Horn:
With Bright Yellow yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 4 sc
in ring, do not join. Continue to work in spiral form without joining or
ch 1 until indicated. Use a removable stitch marker to indicate
beginning of round if needed.
Round 2: single stitch in every stitch arnd.
stitch in the stitch that followsitch, repeat from * arnd. (6 sts)
stitch in the stitch that followsitch 2 sts, repeat from * arnd. (8 sts)
next 3 sts, repeat from * around. (10 sts)
Sew the tail onto the head, centered between eyes and about 4
rounds up.
Hair Coils (make 4 of each color, except White):
Ch 25, 2 single stitch in second ch from hook and all remaining
chs, then fasten and leave a long tail.
Use long tail to attach 3 coils of each color along top and back of
head and 1 coil in each color on the bottom back of body for the tail.
Bear
To start, you will make a magic ring and work six sc stitches into
the ring, all using gray yarn. Place a marker into the sixth sc stitch
because you’re going to work in spirals. You can finish and start
each new round, but this might be a better way for such projects.
In the second round, you will work six increases, which will
double the number of stitches and you’ll end up having twelve
stitches at the end of this round. Always move your marker to the
last stitch in that round. In the third round, you’re going to work one
sc and one increase all around.
In the fourth round, you will work two sc stitches and one
increase all around. In the fifth round, you’re going to work three sc
stitches and one increase all around. The next seven rounds, you’re
going to work sc in all of the stitches, no increases.
In the 13th round, you’re going to work three sc stitches and one
decrease. Repeat this all around. In the 14th round, you’re going to
work two sc stitches and a decrease all around. It is now a good time
to insert the stuffing. Then, in the 15th round, you’re going to work
one sc and once decrease all around. Add some more stuffing.
In the 16th round, you will work six decreases. Then, you’re going
to fasten it off the yarn and using a tapestry needle, you’re going to
close the hole with the tail you left when you were fastening off the
yarn. Weave in the ends.
Next, you’re going to make the legs. You will start by making a
magic ring and working eight sc stitches into the ring. In the second
round, you’re going to work three sc and an increase two times. In
the next two rounds, i.e. third and fourth round, you will work all sc
stitches, no increases needed.
After you finish fourth round, you will fasten it off the yarn and
make another piece just like this one. There’s no need to fasten it off
the second leg because, you’ll just continue to work around both
legs. Then, you can make the arms.
You will start by making a magic ring and working six sc stitches
into the ring. Then, you’re going to work five rounds of just six sc
stitches, no increases at all.
When you finish the fifth round, you will fasten it off the yarn.
Make two arms, of course. Then, you will start working on the body.
You will attach the other leg to the first one by working the first stitch
through the stitch on the other leg. Then, you’re going to continue
working sc stitches all around both legs.
In the next round, you’re going to work six sc stitches and a

decrease, then eight sc stitches and a decrease and another four sc
stitches. In the seventh round, you’re going to work sc stitches all
around. Then, in the next round, you’re going to work five sc stitches
and a decrease, eight sc stitches and a decrease and another three
sc stitches.
At this point you can add some stuffing into the legs and lower
part of the body. Then work one round of sc stitches. In the next
round, you’re going to work four sc stitches and a decrease, eight sc
stitches and a decrease and another two sc stitches.
Then, you’re going to work two rounds of sc stitches. Add some
more stuffing. Then, in the following round, you’re going to work
three sc stitches and add an arm. You will do this by inserting the
hook through two stitches of the arm and also through the next stitch
that will be worked.
Then work a sc stitch through those stitches. You will do the

same for the next two stitches. Then, work five sc stitches and attach
the other arm in the same manner you attached the first arm.
Then work another three sc stitches to finish the round. Then

work a round of sc stitches. Next, you’re going to make the ears. To
begin, you need to make a magic ring and work six sc stitches into
the ring.
In the second round, you’re going to work six increases. In the

third round, you’re going to work two sc stitches and an increase all
around. In the fourth and fifth round, you’re going to work sc stitches
all around. Then, in the sixth round, you’re going to work two sc
stitches and a decrease all around.
Then, you’re going to connect the sides by flattening the ear and
working sc stitches through two stitches. This will make it a lot easier
to attach to the head. Then, for the inside of the ear, you’re going to
take the white yarn and make a magic ring and work four sc stitches
into the ring.
In the second round, you’re going to work four increases. And

you’re done. Fasten it off the yarn. You can use a brush to fluff the
insides of the ear, to make it seem a bit more realistic. Then, you can
either glue the insides of the ears or you can leave a bit longer tail,
then sew them onto the ears.
Of course, you will need to make two ears. Then, you will attach
the head onto the body. If you feel like you should stuff the body a bit
more, do it, because it is your last chance. Sew the head to the body
and then attach the ears to the head.
Then add the eyes. You can also embroider the eyes if that’s
what you prefer. Then take the black thread and embroider square-
like nose. Once you finish all that, you can add some decorative
accessories and you’re done!
Cat
Body:
With Soft Gray yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1, create 10 round

Round two: 2 single stitches in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1. (20
sts)
Round 3: *2 sc in st that follows, single crochet in the stitch that

follows, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (30 sts)
Round 4: Sc in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1.
Round 5: *2 sc in st that follows, single stitch in next 2 sts, repeat

from * arnd, join, chain 1. (40 sts)

Rounds 8–19: Sc in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1.
Round 20: * single crochet decrease, single stitch in next 3 sts,

Rounds 21–22: Sc in every stitch arnd, join, ch 1.
Round 23: *Sc2tog, single stitch in next 2 sts, repeat from * arnd,
join, ch 1. (30 sts)
Round 26: *Sc2tog, single crochet in the stitch that follows,

Round 29: Sc2tog around, join. (10 sts)
Fasten and leave a long tail and stuff, leaving top open.
Head:

Round two: 2 single stitches in every stitch arnd, join, ch 1. (20

sts)
Round 3: Sc in every stitch arnd, join, ch 1.

follows, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (30 sts)


Round 16: *Sc2tog, single stitch in next 3 sts, repeat from * arnd,

Round 20: *Sc2tog, single crochet in the stitch that follows,

At this point attach the safety eyes (about 12 rounds up) and
nose (about 11 rounds up). Sew on two strands of White yarn for the
whiskers on either side of the nose. Then stuff before closing the
head.
Legs (make 2):

With White yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 6 round
Round 2: 2 sc in every stitch arnd, join, ch 2. (12 sts)
Round 3: 2 dc in first 3 sts, 2 hdc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next 5 sts,

2 hdc in last 2 sts, join, ch 1. (24 sts)
Round 4: sc in every stitch arnd, join, change to Soft Gray yarn,

ch 1.

sts)

sts)
Sew onto bottom of body using a tail long.
Arms:



Round 5: *Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, repeat from * arnd, join,
change to Soft Gray yarn, ch 1. (12 sts)
Flatten opening and sew the tail onto body under the head.
Ears (make 2):
With Soft Gray yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 4 6

Round 3: 2 sc in every stitch arnd, join, ch 1. (8 sts)

Round 7: *2 sc in st that follows, sc in next 2 sts, repeat from *

arnd, join, ch 1. (16 sts)
Fasten and leave a long tail. No need to stuff.
Sew the tail onto top sides of head.
Tail:


follows, repeat from * around, ch 1, turn. (9 sts)
Use long tail to sew to bottom back of body.
Dog
Body:
With Oatmeal yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 10 sc in

ring, connect to first single stitch, ch 1.
Round 2: 2 single crochet in every stitch arnd, join, ch 1. (20 sts)
Round 3: *2 single stitches in stitch that follows, single stitches in

stitch that follows, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (30 sts)

Round 5: *2 single stitches in stitch that follows, sc in next 2 sts,

Round 20: *Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1.

(40 sts)

(30 sts)

Snout:
With Oatmeal yarn, ch 5, sc in second ch from hook and next 2

chs, 3 single stitches in last chain.
Now working on other side of ch, sc in first 3 chs, 3 sc in last ch,

Round 2: Sc in first 3 sts, 2 single stitches in next 3 sts, sc in next
3 sts, 2 single stitches in last 3 sts, join, ch 1. (18 sts)
Add safety nose toward the middle top of snout.
Eye Patch:
With Taupe yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 6 single

stitches in ring, pull tight, do not join, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 2 single stitches in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 single

stitches in last st, ch 1, turn (8 sts).
Row 3: Sc in every stitch.
Place one of the safety eyes in the middle of eye patch and
secure.
Head:
With Oatmeal yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 10 sc in

Round 2: 2 single crochet in every stitch arnd, join, ch 1. (20 sts)
Round 4: *2 single stitches in stitch that follows, single stitch in

the stitch that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (30 sts)



(40 sts)

(30 sts)

At this point sew on the snout and eye patch above the snout on
the left-hand side and add remaining safety eye parallel to the first.
Then stuff before closing the head.
Fasten it off and weave in ends.
Legs (make 2):
With Taupe yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 6 single

stitches in ring, connect to first single stitch, ch 1.
Round 2: 2 single stitches in every stitch arnd, join, ch 2. (12 sts)
Round 3: 2 dc in first 3 sts, 2 hdc in next 2 sts, 2 single stitches in

next 5 sts, 2 hdc in last 2 sts, join, ch 1. (24 sts)
Round 4: sc in every stitch arnd, join, change to Oatmeal yarn, ch

1.

sts)

sts)
Sew the tail onto the bottom of body.
Arms:
With Taupe yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 10 sc in



change to Oatmeal yarn, ch 1. (12 sts)

Flatten opening and use sew the tail onto body under the head.
Ears (make 2—one in each yarn color):
Create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 8 sc in ring, connect to first

single stitch, ch 1.


(16 sts)

(12 sts)
Fasten and leave a long tail. No need to stuff ears.
Sew the tail onto head about 3 or 4 rounds down from top.
Tail:
With Taupe yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 4 sc in ring,

join, ch 1.


Round 7: Sc2tog, sc in last 6 sts, join, ch 1. (7 sts)
Round 9: Sc2tog, sc in last 5 sts, join. (6 sts)
Fasten and leave a long tail and stuff lightly.
Sew the tail onto back of body.
Elephant
Head and Trunk (Make 1)

Using the 3mm hook and YARN A, (grey) create a magic ring.
Leave a long tail end of yarn for this project. We are starting from the
trunk and working towards the back of the head.
Rnd 1: 5dc into ring = 5.
Place stitch marker on the last stitch and move to last stitch of the
new round as you progress.
Rnd 2: 2dc, inc, 1dc, inc = 7
Rnds 3-12: 7dc
Rnd 13: 2dc, inc, 3dc = 9
Rnd 14: (2dc, inc) x 3 = 12
Rnd 15: (3dc, inc) x 3 = 15
Rnd 16: (4dc, inc) x 3 = 18
Rnd 17: (2dc, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 18: (3dc, inc) x 6 = 30
Rnd 19: (4dc, inc) x 6 = 36
Rnd 20: (5dc, inc) x 6 = 42
Rnds 21-26: 42dc
Rnd 27: (5dc, inv dec) x 6 = 36
Rnd 28: (4dc, inv dec) x 6 = 30
Rnd 29: (3dc, inv dec) x 6 = 24
Rnd 30: (2dc, inv dec) x 6 = 18

Rnd 31: (1dc, inv dec) x 6 = 12
Rnd 32: 6inv dec = 6
Close up hole and cast off yarn. Sew in all ends of yarn.
Body (Make 1)
Using the 3mm hook and YARN A (grey) create a magic ring.
Rnd 1: 6dc into ring = 6
Place stitch marker on last stitch and move to last stitch of the
Rnd 2: inc x 6 = 12
Rnd 3: (dc, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 4: (2dc, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 5: (3dc, inc) x 6 = 30
Rnd 6: (9dc, inc) x 3 = 33
Rnds 7-17: 33dc
Rnd 18: (9dc, inv dec) x 3 = 30
Rnd 19: (3dc, inv dec) x 6 = 24
Rnd 20: (2dc, inv dec) x 6 = 18
Do not fasten it off, we are just pausing here to make the tail...
Tail (Make 1)
Take 3 small pieces of YARN A. Knot them together at the top
and trim off the ends. Plait the three pieces of yarn until the tail is
around 3cm long. Thread the plait onto a darning needle. Thread the
needle through the back centre of the body (where the magic ring is).
Remove the needle and knot the open end of the plait inside the
body securing it in place. Trim the ends of yarn. We are now ready to
continue with the body...
Body Continued
Because the head is heavy we will fill the back end of the body
with lentils to make it heavier and counterbalance the weight of the
head. The rest is stuffed with toy stuffing.
Note that you will not be able to wash the toy.
Rnd 21: (dc, inv dec) x 6 = 12
Rnd 22: inv dec x 6 = 6
Legs (Make 4)
Using the 3mm hook and YARN B (pink) create a magic ring.
Rnd 2: inc x 6 = 12
Rnd 3: (dc, inc) x 6 = 18. Cast off YARN B (pink) and cast on
YARN A (grey)
Rnds 4-8: [YARN A] 18dc

Rnd 9: 18dc, ss
Double knot yarn to cast off. Leave a long length of yarn. Stuff
the back two legs three-quarters full with lentils and then a small
amount of toy stuffing. Stuff the front two legs with toy stuffing.
Ears (Make 2)
Using the 3mm hook and YARN A (grey) create a magic ring.
Rnd 2: inc x 6 = 12
Rnd 3: (dc, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 4: (2dc, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 5: (3dc, inc) x 6 = 30
Rnds 6-10: 30dc
Rnd 11: (3dc, inv dec) x 6 = 24
Rnd 12: (2dc, inv dec) x 6 = 18, ss
Do not stuff. Flatten ear. Double knot yarn to cast off and leave a
long length of yarn.
Construction
1. Sew the four legs onto the underside of the body using a
darning needle and the lengths of yarn attached to the four legs. The
legs are sewn close together with almost no space in between. Start
with the back two legs and then attach the front two.
2. Sew the head onto the body. Use the yarn from the body to do
this and use the photo as a guide to positioning. The head sits just
slightly higher than central so that your elephant looks upwards.
3. Sew the two ears onto the two sides of the head. Flatten the
ears before sewing them on and they are secured in almost a semi-
circle shape that follows the rounds of crochet.
Giraffe
Body:
With Bright Yellow yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and make
10 single stitches in ring, join to first single stitches, chain 1.
Round two: 2 single stitches in each st ard, join, chain 1. (20 sts)

stitch that follows, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (30 sts)
Round 4: Single stitch in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1.

next 2 stitches, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (40 sts)

next 3 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (50 sts)
Rounds 8–19: Single stitch in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1.

Round 20: *Single crochet decrease, single stitch in next 3 sts,
repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (40 sts)
Round 23: * Single crochet decrease, single stitch in next 2

stitches, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (30 sts)
Round 26: *Sc2tog, single stitches in stitch that follows, repeat

Head:
With Bright Yellow yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and make
10 single stitches ring, join to first sc, chain 1.
Round 2: 2 Single stitch in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1. (20 sts)



next 3 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (50 sts)

Round 16: * Single crochet decrease, single stitch in next 3 sts,

stitches, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (30 sts)
Round 20: *Sc2tog, single stitches in stitch that follows, repeat


(about 7 sts apart). Then stuff before closing the head.
Round 22: Sc2tog arnd, join, chain 1. (10 sts)
Arms (make 2):
With Taupe yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and make 10 single
stitches in ring, join to first sc, chain 1.


Round 5: * Single crochet decrease, single stitch in next 3 sts,
repeat from * arnd, join, change to Bright Yellow yarn, chain 1. (12
sts)
Flatten opening and sew onto body at base of neck using a long
tail to.
Legs (make 2):
stitches in ring, join to first single stitch, chain 1.
Round two: 2 single stitches in every stitch arnd, join, ch 2. (12

sts)
Round 3: 2 dc in first 3 sts, 2 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 single stitch

in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in last 2 sts, join, chain 1. (24 sts)
Round 5: Single crochet in every stitch arnd, join, change to

Bright Yellow yarn, chain 1.
Round 7: Sc2tog 6 times, single crochet in remaining 12 sts, join,

chain 1. (18 sts)
Round 9: Sc2tog 5 times, single crochet in remaining 8 sts, join,

chain 1. (13 sts)

Sew onto bottom of body using long tail.
Horns (make 2):
stitches in ring, join to first single stitch, chain 1.
Stuff as you go.



stitches, repeat from * arnd, join, change to Bright Yellow yarn, chain
1. (9 sts)
Fasten and leave a long tail, then sew onto top of head.
Ears (make 2):
With Bright Yellow yarn, ch 5, single crochet in second ch from

hook and in remaining 3 chains, chain 1, turn. (4 sts)
Row 2: 2 single crochet in first st, single stitch in next 2 stitches, 2

single crochet in last st, chain 1, turn. (6 sts)
Rows 3–5: single crochet in each st across, chain 1, turn.
Row 6: Single crochet decrease, single stitch in next 2 stitches,

single crochet decrease, chain 1, turn. (4 sts)
Row 7: single crochet in each st across, chain 1, turn.
Row 8: Sc2tog twice, then keep on single stitching around entire

ear, join to the second sc, causing the ear to cup.
Fasten and leave a tail then sew on the head.
Snout:
With Oatmeal yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and make 10

single stitches in ring, join to first sc, chain 1.
Round 2: 2 Single stitch in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1. (20 sts)

Fasten and leave a tail and stuff.
Sew onto front of head directly under eyes using long tail.
Spots (make 6 or more):
With Taupe yarn, create a magic ring, make 6 single stitches in

ring, continue to work in spiral form without joining or chain 1 until
indicated. Use a removable stitch marker to indicate beginning of
round if needed.
Round 2: *2 single stitches in stitch that follows, single in stitch

that follows, repeat from * around. (9 sts)
Round 3: 2 hdc in the stitch that follows, 2 dc in the stitch that

follows, 2 hdc in the stitch that follows, sc + hdc + hdc in the stitch
that follows, single crochet in the stitch that follows, sl st to join to
next st, ending round early.
Fasten and leave a tail, then sew sporadically on head and body.
Tail:
With Bright Yellow yarn, chain 11, sl st in second ch from hook

and remaining 9 chs, fasten it off.
Knot 4 strands of Taupe yarn through last ch so that when

knotted it makes a short tassel of 8 strands.
Sew onto back bottom of body.

Hippo
Create a magic ring, ch 1, create 10 round single stitches, join to

first single stitch, ch 1.
Round 2: 2 single stitches in every stitches arnd, join, ch 1. (20

sts)
Round 3: *2 single stitches in every stitches, single stitch in the

stitch that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (30 sts)
Round 5: *2 single stitches in every stitches, single stitch in next

2 stitches, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (40 sts)

3 stitches, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (50 sts)

Round 20: *single crochet decrease, single stitch in next 3
stitches, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (40 sts)

Round 26: *single crochet decrease, single stitch in the stitch that
followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (20 sts)
Rounds 27–28: Sc in each st arnd, join, ch 1.
Round 29: single crochet decrease around, join. (10 sts)
Head:


sts)
Round 3: Sc in each st arnd, join, ch 1.
Round 4: *2 single stitches in every stitches, single stitch in the

stitch that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (30 sts)

2 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (40 sts)

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st arnd, join, ch 1.

Round 17: single stitch in every st arnd, join, ch 1.

At this point attach the safety eyes. Then stuff before closing the
head.
Round 22: single crochet decrease arnd, join, ch 1. (10 sts)
Legs (make 2):
Create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 6 single stitches in ring, join

to first sc, ch 1.

sts)
Round 3: 2 dc in first 3 sts, 2 hdc in next 2 sts, 2 single stitches in
next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in last 2 sts, join, ch 1. (24 sts)
Round 4: While in back loops, single stitch in every stitch arnd,

join, ch 1.
Round 7: single crochet decrease 6 times, sc in remaining 12 sts,

Round 9: single crochet decrease 5 times, sc in remaining 8 sts,

Arms (make 2):

Round 2: *2 stitches on next stitch, single stitch on next stitch,

repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (15 stitches)


Snout:
Ch 11, sc in second chain from hook and next 8 chains, 3 single

stitches in last chain.
Now on the chain’s other side, single stitch in first 9 chains, 3

single stitches in last ch, join, ch 1. (24 sts)
Round 2: Sc in first 9 sts, 2 single stitches in next 3 stitches,

single stitch in next 9 stitches, 2 single stitches in last 3 stitches, join,
ch 1. (30 sts)
Sew the tail onto head directly below the eyes.
Nostrils (make 2):
Create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 6 single stitches in ring, join

to first sc, Fasten and leave a long tail.
Use long tail to sew nostrils onto snout.
Ears (make 2):

Round 2: *2 single stitches in first st, single stitch in the stitch that

Round 6: single stitch in every stitch arnd, join.
No need to stuff ears. Pinch bottom of ears and use long tail to
sew closed, then sew onto head (about 5 rows down from top on
either side).
Octopus
Head / Body (Make 1)
Using the 3.25mm hook and YARN A (blue), cast on by creating

a slip knot followed by 2ch.
Rnd 1: 6dc into second chain from hook = 6. Pull tail end of yarn
tight to close hole. Place stitch marker on last stitch
and move to last stitch of the new round as you progress.
Round 2: 6 increase = 12
Rnd 3: (dc, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 4: (2dc, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 5: (3dc, inc) x 6 = 30
Rnd 6: (4dc, inc) x 6 = 36
Rnd 7: (5dc, inc) x 6 = 42
Rnds 8-13: 42dc

Rnd 14: (12dc, inv dec) x 3 = 39
Rnd 15: 39dc
Rnd 16: (11dc, inv dec) x 3 = 36
Rnd 17: 36dc
Rnd 18: (10dc, inv dec) x 3 = 33
Rnd 19: 33dc
Rnd 20: (9dc, inv dec) x 3 = 30
Rnd 21: 30dc
Rnd 22: (8dc, inv dec) x 3 = 27
Rnd 23: 27dc
Rnd 24: (7dc, inv dec) x 3 = 24
Rnd 25: 24dc
Rnd 26: (2dc, inc) x 8 = 32
Rnd 27: (2dc, inc) x 8, 8dc = 40
Stuff with toy stuffing. Do not fasten it off yarn, we continue with
the same yarn to move onto the first leg…
Legs (that’s right – we need 8!)
Each leg starts from a base of 5 stitches, totalling up the 40

stitches that we completed on the last round of the body.
Therefore it is important to make sure that you definitely have 40

stitches to work from!
First leg:
Row 1: 5htr, turn work.
Row 2: 2ch, 5htr, turn work.
Row 3: 2ch, miss first stitch, 4htr, turn work
Row 9: 15ch. Working back along the chain, working from the
second chain from the hook, 5dc, 5htr, 4tr. ss into the end htr from
row 8.
Double knot yarn to cast off. Sew in end.
Second leg onwards:
Attach the blue yarn to the body using a ss on the stitch to the left
of the leg you have just joined.
Row 1: 2ch (counts as first htr), 4htr, turn work.

Row 9: 15ch. Working back along the chain, working from the
second chain from the hook, 5dc, 5htr, 4tr. ss into the end htr from
row 8.
Double knot yarn to cast off. Sew in end.
Continue all the way around until you have a total of 8 legs
attached!
Belly (Make 1)
Using the 3.25mm hook and YARN B (green), cast on by creating

Rnd 1: 6dc into second chain from hook = 6.
Pull the tail end of yarn tight to close the hole. Place stitch marker
on last stitch and move to last stitch of the new round as you
progress.
Rnd 3: (dc, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 4: (2dc, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 5: (3dc, inc) x 6 = 30
Rnd 6: (4dc, inc) x 6, ss = 36

Double knot yarn and use the long end to sew the belly to the
underside of the octopus using invisible stitches. This holds in the
toy stuffing.
Eyes (Make 2)
Using the 3.25mm hook and YARN C (white), cast on by creating

Rnd 1: [YARN C] 6dc into second chain from hook = 6. Pull tail
end of yarn tight to close hole in centre. Place stitch marker on last
stitch and move to last stitch of the new round as you progress.
Rnd 3: (dc, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 4: 18dc. Cast off YARN C.
Rnds 5-6: [YARN A] 18dc
Rnd 7: (dc, inv dec) x 6 = 12
Rnd 8: inv dec x 6, ss = 6
Push the 5mm black plastic eye the centre of the eye and secure
in place. Stuff the eye with toy stuffing. Double knot the yarn and
leave a long end. Use this long end of yarn to sew the eye onto the
body/head of the octopus close to
where the legs join. Repeat with the second eye.

Lamb
Body:

Round 2: 2 single crochet in each stitch arnd, join, ch 1. (20 sts)
Round 3: *2 single crochet in the stitch that follows, single

crochet in subsequent st, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (30 sts)
Round 4: Sc inevery stitch arnd, join, ch 1.

crochet in subsequent 2 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (40 sts)

Rounds 8–19: Sc inevery stitch arnd, join, ch 1.
Round 20: * single crochet decrease, single crochet in

subsequent 3 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (40 sts)
Round 23: *Sc2tog, single crochet in subsequent 2 sts, repeat

Round 26: *Sc2tog, single crochet in subsequent st, repeat from *


Head:

Round 2: 2 single crochet in each stitch arnd, join, ch 1. (20 sts)




from * arnd, join, change to Soft Gray yarn, ch 1. (40 sts)

Round 20: *Sc2tog, single crochet in subsequent st, repeat from *


Use long tail of body to sew on head. Head will sit “sideways” on
body, with the white in the back and gray nose pointing to the front.
Use Black yarn to stitch on a little nose.
Legs (make 2):

Round 2: 2 single crochet inevery stitch arnd, join, ch 2. (12 sts)
Round 3: 2 dc in first 3 sts, 2 hdc in next 2 sts, 2 single crochet in

subsequent 5 sts, 2 hdc in last 2 sts, join, ch 1. (24 sts)
Round 4: Working in back loops, single stitch in every stitch arnd,

join, ch 1.

sts)

sts)
Arms (make 2):



Ears (make 2):
Outer Ear (make 2):
With White yarn, chain 8, Half double crochet stitch in second ch

from hook and in the next 5 chs, make 2 hdc in last ch.
Now working on other side of ch, Half double crochet stitch in

every chain, join to first hdc, ch 2. (14 sts)
Round 2: 2 dc in the first 3 sts, 2 hdc in the stitch that follows, 2
sc in the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the stitch that follows, 2 dc in last st,
join. (28 sts)
Fasten and leave a long tail to sew ear onto head.
Inner Ear (make 2):
With Soft Gray yarn, ch 6, sc in second ch from hook and in the

next 3 sts, 2 sc in last ch.
Now working on other side of the ch, sc in each ch, join to first sc,
ch 2. (11 sts)
Round 2: 2 dc in the first 2 sts, 2 hdc in the stitch that follows, 2

single crochet in subsequent 6 sts, 2 hdc in the stitch that follows, 2
dc in last st, join. (22 sts)
Fasten and leave a long tail and sew inner ear inside the outer
ear.
After sewing the inner ear into the outer ear, pinch the smaller
end together and use long tail of outer ear to sew some of it shut
before you sew it onto the sides of the head.
Monkey
Head (Make 1)
Using the 3.5mm crochet hook and YARN A (brown), create a

magic ring.
Rnd 1: [YARN A] 6dc into ring = 6
Place stitch marker on last stitch and move to last stitch of each
Rnd 2: 6 increase = 12
Round 3: (double stitch, increase) x 6 = 18
Round 4: (2 double stitch, increase) x 6 = 24
Rnd 6: (4 double stitch, increase) x 6 = 36
Rnds 7-11: 36 double stitch

Rnd 12: (4 double stitch, inv dec) x 6 = 30
Stuff toy and continue to stuff until end.
Rnd 16: 6inv dec = 6
Body (Make 1)
Using the 3.5mm crochet hook and YARN A (brown), create a

magic ring.
Rnd 3: (double stitch, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 4: (2 double stitch, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 6-11: 30 double stitch

Rnd 14: 3 double stitch, inv dec, 6 double stitch, inv dec, 6
double stitch, inv dec, 3 double stitch = 21
Rnd 15: 21 double stitch
Stuff and continue to stuff to end.
Rnd 18: (3 double stitch, inv dec) x 3, ss = 12
Double knot and cast off yarn, sewing in end.
Ears (Make 2)
Using the 3.5mm hook and YARN A (brown) create a magic ring.
Rnd 3: (double stitch, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnds 5-6: 24dc
Rnd 7: (2 double stitch, inv dec) x 6, ss = 18
Cast off yarn, leaving a long end. Do not stuff.
Snout (Make 1)
Using the 3.5mm hook and YARN B (wheat) cast on and create a
slip knot.
Rnd 1: [YARN B] 4ch, dc into 2nd chain from hook, dc, inc, 3dc
into underside of chain = 8
Rnd 2: (inc, double stitch) x 4 = 12
Rnd 3: (3inc, 3 double stitch) x 2 = 18
Rnd 4: 2dc, 3inc, 6 double stitch, 3inc, 4dc = 24
Rnd 5: 24 double stitch, ss.
Double knot and cast off yarn, leaving a long end.
Eyes (Make 2)
Using the 3.5mm hook and YARN B (wheat), create a magic ring.
Rnd 1: [YARN B] 6dc into ring = 6.
Rnd 2: 6inc, ss = 12,
Tail (Make 1)
Using the 3.5mm hook, and YARN A create a magic ring.

new row as you progress.
Stuff tail with toy stuffing and continue to stuff as you progress
through rounds 3-18.
Rnds 3-18: 6dc
Rnd 19: 6dc, ss.
Cast off yarn, leaving a long end.
Arms (Make 2)
Using the 3.5mm hook and YARN B create a magic ring.
Rnd 1: [YARN B] 5dc into ring = 5
Rnd 4: 7dc = 7. Cast off Yarn B
Stuff arm with toy stuffing and continue to stuff as you progress
Rnds 5-19: [YARN A] 7dc = 7
Rnd 20: 7dc, ss.

Legs (Make 2)
Using the 3.5 mm hook, cast on and YARN B create a magic ring.
Rnd 1: [YARN B] 5dc into ring = 5
Rnd 4: 7dc = 7. Cast off Yarn B
Stuff arm with toy stuffing and continue to stuff as you progress
Rnds 5-22: [YARN A] 7dc = 7
Rnd 23: 7dc, ss.
Construction
1. Sew snout onto front of head stuffing with toy stuffing as you
progress. Using black embroidery thread, sew two nostrils and a
mouth onto the snout area. Cast off yarn so that the ends cannot be
seen.
2. Push the press-through eyes through the light brown crochet

eyes that you constructed and then sew to the head just above the
snout.
3. Sew ears to head. Attach them at the side of the head and use
the photos as a guide.
4. Sew arms and legs to body using the photos as a guide.
5. Sew tail to back of the body.

Owl
Body:
With Oatmeal yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1, create 10 round


sts)

stitches in next 2 stitches, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (40 sts)
Round 7: *2 single stitches in the stitch that followsitch, sc in next

Round 20: * single crochet decrease, sc in next 3 sts, repeat from

* arnd, join, ch 1. (40 sts)

* arnd, join, ch 1. (30 sts)

Head:
With Taupe yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1, create 10 round


sts)



(40 sts)

(30 sts)
Pinch the top so it’s closed flat. Use long tail to sew top edges
together. The ears will automatically take shape when you sew the
top closed. Then stuff firmly.
Eyes (make 2):
With Oatmeal yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1, create 10 round


stitch in the stitch that followsitch, repeat from * around, join. (30 sts)
Fast and leave a long tail.

Add safety eyes slightly off-center and sew onto front of head so
both eyes touch in the middle.
Beak:
With Pumpkin yarn, ch 4, single stitch in second ch after the

hook, hdc in the ch after, double stitch in final ch, fasten and leave a
tail.
Sew beak onto head so it overlaps the bottom of eyes.
Wings (make 2):
With Taupe yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 6 6 round


sts)



Round 10: *2 single stitches in the stitch that followsitch, sc in

Round 11: *2 single stitches in the stitch that followsitch, sc in

(21 sts)
Round 18: *Sc2tog, single stitches in the stitch that followsitch,

Wings should be unstuffed and lay flat.
Use long tail to sew the top closed and attach where head and
body meet.
Feet (make 2):
With Pumpkin yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1, create 10 round


* around, join. (16 sts)
Stuff lightly and pinch opening flat. Use long tail to sew on bottom
of body so stuffed foot ends stick out.
Penguin

Round 2: 2 single stitches in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1. (20

sts)

stitch in the stitch that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1.
(30 sts)

2 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (40 sts)

3 stitches, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (50 sts)

* arnd, join, chain 1. (40 sts)

chain 1. (30 sts)
Round 26: * single crochet decrease, single stitch in the stitch

that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (20 sts)
Fast and leave a long tail and stuff, leaving top open.
Head:
With Black yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1, create 10 round single


sts)
Round 4: *2 single stitches in the stitch that followsitch, singles

stitch in the stitch that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1.
(30 sts)

stitch in next 2 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (40 sts)

chain 1. (40 sts)

chain 1. (30 sts)

At this point stuff before closing the head.
Round 22: Sc2tog arnd, join, chain 1. (10 sts)
Eye Patches (make 2):
With White yarn, ch 7, sc in second ch from hook and in next 4

chs, 4 single stitches in last chain.
Now working on other side of ch, sc in first 5 chs, 4 single
stitches in last chain, join, chain 2. (18 stitches)
Round 2: *2 dc in first st, dc in the stitch that followsitch, repeat

from * around until you have 2 sts left unworked, single stitches in
last 2 stitches and join to first dc. (28 stitches)
The part with the 2 sc sts is the bottom. Add safety eyes to
middle of eye patches and then sew onto head.
Sew onto front of head. About 8 rows from the top.
Beak:
With Bright Yellow yarn ch 3, sc in second ch from hook, 2 single

stitches in last chain.
Now working on other side of ch, sc in first ch, 2 single stitches in

last chain, join, chain 1. (6 sts)

stitches in the stitch that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1.
(9 sts)
Round 3: single stitch in every stitch arnd, join.
Sew to head overlapping bottom of eye patches.
Wings (make 2):
With Black yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 6 6 round

Round 2: *2 single stitches in the stitch that follows, single stitch

in the stitch that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (9 sts)



Round 10: *2 single stitches in the stitch that follows, single stitch
in next 4 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (24 sts)

Round 16: *single crochet decrease, single stitch in next 2 sts,


Wings should be unstuffed and lay flat.

Use long tail to sew the top closed and attach where head and
body meet.
Feet (make 2):
With Bright Yellow yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1 and make 10

single stitches in ring, join to first single stitch, ch 1.

sts)
Round 8: *Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, repeat from * around, join. (16

sts)
Stuff lightly and pinch opening flat. Use long tail to sew on bottom
of body so stuffed foot ends stick out.
Rabbit
Head / Body (Make 1)
Using the white yarn and your 3mm hook, create a magic ring.
We start from the top of the head and work down into the body.

Rounds 8-13: 42dc
Round 14: (5dc, increase dec) x 6 = 36
Round 15: (4dc, inv dec) x 6 = 30
Stuff toy and continue to stuff until end.
Put the press-through eyes at this stage. The eyes go in between

rounds 9-10 or use the photos as a guide.
Rnd 18: (1dc, inv dec) x 6 = 12
Rnd 19: (dc, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 20: (2dc, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 21: (3dc, inc) x 6 = 30
Rnds 22-27: 30dc
Rnd 28: (3dc, inv dec) x 6 = 24
Rnd 29: (2dc, inv dec) x 6 = 18
Rnd 30: (1dc, inv dec) x 6 = 12
Rnd 31: inv dec x 6 = 6
Back Legs (Make 2)

Using the white yarn and a 2mm crochet hook, create a magic
ring.
Rounds 4-5: 18 double stitch
Round 6: (dc, inv dec) x 6 = 12
Round 7: 6inv dec = 6
Rounds 8-10: 6dc
Round 11: 6dc, ss
Double knot yarn and leave a long length of yarn to sew legs onto
body when we construct.
Stuff leg with a small amount of toy stuffing so that the round end
is stuffed and the open end is flat.
Front Legs (Make 2)
Using the white yarn and a 2mm crochet hook, create a magic
ring.
Rnds 3-4: 12dc
Rnd 5: 6inv dec = 6
Rnd 6: 6dc
Rnd 7: 6dc, ss
Double knot and leave a long length of yarn to sew legs onto
body when we construct. Stuff leg with a small amount of toy stuffing
so that the round end is stuffed and the open end is flat.
Ears (Make 2)
Using the 3mm hook and white yarn, create a magic ring.
Rnd 2: 6dc
Rnd 3: (dc, inc) x 3 = 9
Rnd 4: 9dc
Rnd 5: (2dc, inc) x 3 = 12
Rnd 6: 12dc
Rnd 7: (3dc, inc) x 3 = 15
Rnds 8-16: 15dc
Rnd 17: 7dc, inc, 7dc = 16
Rnds 18-19: 16dc
Rnd 20: 16dc, ss

Double knot and leave a long length of yarn to sew ears onto
head when we construct. No stuffing required.
Tail (Make 1)
Using the white yarn and your 3mm crochet hook, create a magic
ring.
Rnds 3-4: 12dc
Rnd 5: (2dc, inv dec) x 3 = 9
Stuff tail with small amount of toy stuffing before sewing onto
body. Double knot and leave a long length of yarn.
Construction
1. Sew the front legs onto the body using the photos as a guide.
The legs are sewn on at the front of the body approximately 1 row
below the head and about 1cm apart. The open ends of the front
legs attach to the body. Flatten the ends and sew through both sides
when attaching and cast the yarn off underneath so that it cannot be
seen.
2. Sew the back legs onto the body using the photos as a guide.
These sit underneath the body just 1-2 rows from the centre and
about 0.5cm apart.
3. Attach the ears to the head. Flatten the ears before attaching
and attach in a semi-circular shape at the bottom. Sew through both
edges of the ears to secure fully, approximately 2mm away from
each other right at the top of the head.
4. Using a needle and some black embroidery thread sew the

nose and mouth onto the face of the rabbit using small back stitches
– use the photo as a guide. Cast off the thread so that your knots
cannot be seen.
5. Attach the tail to the back of the body. This sits in line with the
legs (at approx. row 3-4) so when seated, the tail helps him to sit up.
Turtle
Shell Pieces (Make 7)
Using the 3mm hook and YARN A (light green) create a magic
ring.
Rnd 3: [YARN B] (dc, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 4: (2dc, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 5: [YARN C] (3dc, inc) x 6 = 30
Rnd 6: (4dc, inc) x 6, ss = 36
To finish: Double knot yarn and leave a long end to use for
construction.
Constructing the Shell
Each hexagon has six sides made up of six stitches. These six
stitches are then connected to another six belonging to
another hexagon to make up the shell. There is one hexagon in

the middle and the remaining six hexagons surround it. So let’s get
started...
Place two hexagons right sides together.
Using the spare long end of yarn from one of the hexagons, sew
the two pieces together.
Place the needle through both loops of each of the six stitches on
each hexagon. Tie a double knot in the yarn to finish and sew in the
end.
Repeat this process until you have two rows of two hexagons and
one row of three. Your sewing should be relatively unseen from the
front.
Join the three strips of hexagons to each other using the same
technique of right sides together and then sewing through both loops
of the stitches. ***It is really important to count the stitches to make
sure they line up properly. ***
Sew in all ends of yarn when you have finished.
Edging of the Shell
We then use YARN C (brown) and a 3mm hook to work an

edging around our shell. This also fills in the gaps in between the
hexagons around the edge.
1. Using a ss, join the yarn to any right hand corner of an outside
hexagon.
2. 6dc – work along the row of 6 stitches along that outside edge
of the hexagon.
3. As the work turns inwards, work 3dc into the next 3 stitches,
htr, tr, dtr.
4. Here we now join to the next hexagon that travels back

outwards again – dtr, tr, htr, 3dc
5. Repeat from step 1 five more times to work all the way around
the edge of the shell.
6. ss and double knot yarn to cast off. Sew in the end of the yarn.
Belly (Make 1)
The belly is made by alternating the ivory (YARN D] and yellow

[YARN E] yarns.
Using the 3mm hook and YARN D create a magic ring.
Rnd 1: [YARN D] 6dc into ring = 6
Rnd 2: [YARN E] 6inc = 12
Rnd 3: [YARN D] (dc, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 4: [YARN E] (2dc, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 5: [YARN D] (3dc, inc) x 6 = 30

Rnd 10: [YARN E] (8dc, inc) x 6 = 60
Rnd 11: [YARN D] (9dc, inc) x 6 = 66
Rnd 12: [YARN E] (10dc, inc) x 6 = 72
Rnd 13: [YARN D] (11dc, inc) x 6 = 78
Rnd 14: [YARN E] (12dc, inc) x 6 = 84
Rnd 15: [YARN D] (13dc, inc) x 6 = 90
Rnd 16: [YARN E] 90dc
Rnd 17: [YARN D] 90dc, ss.
Double knot yarn, cast off and leave a long length of yarn for
construction.
Head (Make 1)
Using the 3mm hook and YARN A (light green] create a magic
ring.
Rnd 3: (dc, inc) x 6 = 18

Rnd 4: (2dc, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 5: (3dc, inc) x 6 = 30
Rnd 6: (4dc, inc) x 6 = 36
Rnd 7: (5dc, inc) x 6 = 42
Rnds 8-13: 42dc
Rnd 14: 12dc, (inv dec, 1dc) x 6, 12dc = 36
Rnd 15: 11dc, 2inv dec, dc, 2inv dec, dc, 2inv dec, 11dc = 30
Rnd 16: (6dc, inv dec) x 3, 6dc = 27
Stuff head with toy stuffing and continue to stuff to end.
Rnd 17: 7dc, inv dec, (3dc, inv dec) x 2, 7dc = 22
Rnd 18: 8dc, inv dec, 2dc, inv dec, 8dc = 20
Rnds 19-21: 20dc
Rnd 22: 5dc, 10htr, 5dc = 20
Rnd 23: 5dc, 10htr, 5dc = 20
Rnd 24: 6dc, 10htr, 4dc = 20
Rnd 25: 8dc, 10htr, 2dc = 20
Rnd 26: inv dec, 6dc, 9htr, 4dc, ss = 20.
Double knot and cast off yarn.
Re-join yarn at the front edge of the turtle’s neck using a

slipstitch. 10htr along that front edge, ss. Double knot and cast off
yarn.
Legs (Make 4)
ring.
Rnd 2: 6dc
Rnd 3: inc x 6 = 12
Rnd 4: 12dc
Rnd 5: (3dc, inc) x 3 = 15
Rnd 6: 15dc
Rnd 7: (4dc, inc) x 3 = 18
Rnds 8-11: 18dc
Rnd 12: 6dc, 6htr, 6dc = 18
Rnd 13: 6dc, 6htr, 6dc = 18
Stuff leg with a small amount of toy stuffing and continue to stuff
to end.
Rnd 14: inv dec, 4dc, 6htr, 4dc, inv dec = 16
Rnd 15: 4dc, inv dec, 4htr, inv dec, 4dc = 14
Rnds 16-17: 14dc
Rnd 18: inv dec, 12dc = 13

Rnd 19: 13dc, ss
Double knot and cast off yarn, leaving a long end to attach the
leg to the body when we construct.
Tail (Make 1)
ring.
Rnd 2: 6dc
Rnd 3: (dc, inc) x 3 = 9
Rnd 4: 9dc
Rnd 5: (2dc, inc) x 3 = 12
Rnds 6-9: 12dc
To Finish: ss, double knot and cast off yarn, leaving a long end to
attach the tail to the body when we construct. Pop a small amount of
toy stuffing into the tail to fill it out slightly.
Eyes (Make 2)
Using the 3mm hook and YARN D (Ivory) create a magic ring.
Rnd 1: [YARN D] 6dc into ring = 6

Rnd 2: inc x 6 = 12
Rnd 3: (dc, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 4: 18dc
Rnd 5: 18dc, ss
Double knot and cast off yarn, leaving a long end. Press the 5mm
black eye through the center of the work and Secure in place.
Construction
1. Place the shell on your table wrong side facing upwards. Place
the head, four legs and tail on top on the correct places. In other
words the turtle looks like it is lying on its back! Each item sits on the
join between two hexagons (where the htr, tr, dtr etc. is). Pin each
item in place to secure and just check that the angles are correct
compared to the photos here.
2. Sew the underneath edge only of each leg, the head and tail to
the underside of the shell. Use the spare green length of yarn on
each piece to sew a few invisible stitches. Be careful that the stitches
do not go all the way through the crocheting to the top of the shell.
Once all the pieces are sewn on, turn him over to check that all looks
okay so far.
3. With the shell the wrong side up place the belly piece right side
up over the top. Pin it in place using pins to connect the shell on top
of each leg, the tail and the neck. This makes sure that the belly sits
in the correct place. When we sew the belly onto the shell we are
fixing the legs, head and tail in place as well.
4. Starting from the head (make sure your long end of yarn starts
here), begin to stitch the belly piece to the rest of the body. The
invisible stitches you use need to go through both loops of the belly
piece and then the loops of the shell or tail/leg/neck pieces as you
progress. Again be careful when working on the underside of the
shell that your stitches do not come through the top. They are called
invisible stitches for a reason! Work your way around the turtle,
joining him together. If your length of yarn isn’t long enough just cut a
new piece of yarn to use instead.
5. Pause your stitches once you have just 4-5cm remaining – we

need to stuff the body! Because the head of the turtle is heavy and
will make him tip forward, we will stuff the body with some lentils
towards the tail and then toy stuffing towards the head. Place a
handful (about 1/3 full) of lentils into the body. Then fill the remaining
body with toy stuffing. Check that he stands upright. Please note that
if you do stuff the turtle with lentils he will not be able to be washed.
Then finish your stitches to close up the body.
6. Sew the two eyes onto the head using the long length of white
yarn left attached to the two pieces. See photos for placement and
stuff with a small amount of toy stuffing.
7. Sew a small smile underneath the eyes using the brown yarn.
Viper
Head and Body:
With Lush yarn, create a magic ring, ch 1, create 10 round single


stitches in the stitch that followsitch, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1.
(30 sts)

stitch in next 2 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (40 sts)

stitch in next 3 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, ch 1. (50 sts)



At this point attach the safety eyes. Then stuff the head and
continue as you go, stuffing the head firmly and lightly stuffing the
skinny body portion.
Round 77: * single crochet decrease, single

Tongue:
With Berry yarn, ch 3, single stitch in 2nd chain after the hook and
next ch, chain 1, turn. (2 sts)
Rows 2–4: single stitch in every st across, ch 1, turn.
Row 5: Sc in each st across, turn.
Row 6: Chain 3, sl single stitch in 2nd chain from hook, single

stitch in chain that follows next, join to first sc in row, ch 3, sl st in
2nd chain from hook, single stitch in next chain, join to last sc.
Fasten and leave a long tail and sew tongue onto center front of
head.
Fish
Body (Make 1)
Using the 3.5mm hook and YARN A (orange) create a magic ring.
We are starting at the mouth of the fish and working down to the tail.
Rnd 3: 6dc
Rnd 4: 6inc = 12
Rnd 5: 12dc
Rnd 6: (dc, inc) x 6 = 18
Rnd 7: 18dc
Rnd 8: (2dc, inc) x 6 = 24
Rnd 9: 24dc
Rnd 10: (11dc, inc ) x 2 = 26
Rnds 11-16: 26dc
Stuff body with toy stuffing and continue to stuff to end.
Rnd 17: (11dc, inv dec) x 2 = 24
Rnd 18: (10dc, inv dec) x 2 = 22
Rnd 19: 22dc

Rnd 20: (9dc, inv dec) x 2 = 20
Rnd 21: (8dc, inv dec) x 2 = 18
Rnd 22: (7dc, inv dec) x 2 = 16
Rnd 23: (6dc, inv dec) x 2 = 14
Rnd 24: (5dc, inv dec) x 2 = 12
Rnd 25: (4dc, inv dec) x 2 = 10
Eyes (Make 2)
Using a 2.5mm hook and YARN C (white) cast on by creating a

slip knot followed by 2ch.
We are starting at the mouth of the fish and working down to the
tail.
Rnd 1: 6dc into second chain from hook = 6
Rnd 3: 12dc
Rnd 4: 12dc, ss
Double knot and cast off end of yarn. Leave a long end to sew
eye to body when we construct.
Tail Fin (Make 1)
Using a 3.25mm crochet hook and YARN B (variegated

orange/cream/brown) cast on by creating a slip knot.
Row 1: 3ch.
Row 2: 6ch (counts as a trtr for row 2). Do not turn work. (2ch,
qtr) x 2 into 9th chain from hook. (2ch, qtr) x 2 into 10th chain from
hook.(2ch, qtr) x 2 into 11th (i.e. final) chain from hook. Turn work.
Row 3: (2dc into first 2ch space, dc into top of first qtr) x 6. Turn
work.
Row 4: 3ch, miss first dc and dc into second. 3ch, miss a dc and
then dc into next dc – continue to end (9 times).
To finish: ss. Double knot and cast off end of yarn. Leave a long
end to attach the tail fin to the fish body when we construct.
Top Fin (Make 1)

Row 1: 3ch.
Row 2: 5ch (counts as dbtr in row 2). Do not turn work. (2ch,
dbltr) into 8th ch from hook, (2ch, dbltr, 2ch, trtr) into 8th ch, (2ch, trtr,
2ch, trtr) into 10th ch (final). Turn work.
Row 3: (2dc into first 2ch space, dc into top of next stitch) x 5. i.e.
repeat to end.
Row 4: (3ch, miss first dc and dc into second) – repeat to end. (6

times)
end to sew to fish body when we construct.
Bottom Fin (Make 1)

Row 1: 2ch.
Row 2: 3ch (counts as tr in row 2). Do not turn work. (2ch, tr) x 2
into 6th ch from hook, (2ch, tr) x 2 into 7th (final) ch. Turn work.
Row 3: (2dc into first 2ch space, dc into top of next stitch) x 4.
Turn work.
Row 4: (3ch, miss first dc and dc into second) -repeat to end. (5

times)
end to sew to fish body when we construct.
Construction
1. Push the black 5mm press-through eyes through the centre of

the white eyes that you made.
2. Sew eyes to head. Use a small amount of stuffing behind and

make sure that the eyes are even on both sides.
3. Sew the tail fin to the end of the body using the long end of
variegated yarn that is attached to the fin.
4. Sew on the top and bottom fins onto the fish body using the
photos as a guide.
Zebra
Body:
With White yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and make 10 single
crochet inside the ring, to the first, join sc, chain 1.
Rnd 2: 2 single stitch in every stitch around, joining, chain 1. (20

sts)
Round 3: *2 single stitches in the following stitch, single stitches

in the stitch that follows, repeat from * around, joining, chain 1. (30
sts)
Rnd 4: Single crochet in every stitch around, joining, chain 1.
Rnd 5: *2 single stitches in the stitch that follows, Single crochet

in other 2 stitches, repeat from * around, joining, chain 1. (40 sts)
Change to Black yarn, then continue to alternate between colors

every 2 rounds.
Round 6: Single crochet every stitch around, joining, chain 1.
Round 7: *2 single stitches in the stitch that follows, single

crochet in following 3 sts, repeat from * around, joining, chain 1. (50
sts)
Rounds 8–19: Single crochet every stitch around, joining, chain
1.
Round 20: *Single crochet decrease, single crochet in following 3

sts, repeat from * around, joining, chain 1. (40 sts)

1.
Round 23: *Sc Single crochet decrease 2tog, Single crochet in

other 2 stitches, repeat from * around, joining, chain 1. (30 sts)

1.
Round 26: * Single crochet decrease, single stitches in the stitch

that follows, repeat from * around, joining, chain 1. (20 sts)

1.
Round 29: Single crochet decrease around, join. (10 sts)
Leaving Fastened off a long tail and stuff, leaving top open.
Head:
Start with White yarn, then continue to alternate between Black

and White every 2 rounds.
With White yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and make 10 Single
crochet in ring, to the first, join sc, chain 1.

sts)

Rnd 4: *2 single stitches in the stitch that follows, single stitches
sts)
Rnd 5: Single crochet every stitch around, joining, chain 1.
Round 6: *2 single stitches in the stitch that follows, Single

crochet in other 2 stitches, repeat from * around, joining, chain 1. (40
sts)
Round 7: *2 single stitches in the stitch that follows, single

crochet in following 3 sts, repeat from * around, join, joining, chain 1
chain 1. (50 sts)

1.
Round 16: * Single crochet decrease, single crochet in following

3 sts, repeat from * around, joining, chain 1. (40 sts)
Round 18: * Single crochet decrease, Single crochet in other 2

stitches, repeat from * around, joining, chain 1. (30 sts)
Round 19: Sc Single crochet in every stitch around, join, joining,

chain 1 chain 1.
Round 20: * Single crochet decrease, single stitches in the stitch

Change to White and continue in White to end.
Round 21: Single crochet in every stitch around h st around,

joining, chain 1.

Round 22: Single crochet decrease around, joining, chain 1. (10
sts)
Leaving Fastened off a long tail.
Use long tail to close final round in ends, weave.
Snout:
With Black yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and make 10 Single

sts)
Round 3: Single crochet in every stitch around ch st around,

joining, chain 1.
Rnd 4: *2 single stitches in the stitch that follows, single stitches

sts)
Rounds 5–7: Single crochet every stitch around, joining, chain 1.
Leaving Fastened off a long tail.
Stuff and use to sew onto long tail front of head directly under
eyes.
Legs (make 2):
Rnd 2: 2 single stitch in every stitch arnd, join, ch 2. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: 2 double crochet in first 3 stitches, 2 hdc in other 2
stitches, 2 Single crochet in following 5 stitches, 2 hdc in last 2 sts,
joining, chain 1. (24 sts)
Rnd 4: Working in back loops only, Single stitch every stitch

around, joining, chain 1.
Change to White yarn, then continue to alternate between colors

every 2 rounds.
Round 7: Single crochet decrease 6 times, Single crochet in

remaining 12 sts, joining, chain 1. (18 sts)
Round 9: Single crochet decrease 5 times, Single crochet in

remaining 8 sts, joining, chain 1. (13 sts)

1.
Leaving Fastened off a long tail and stuff.
Use to sew onto long tail bottom of body.
Arms (make 2):
Round 2: *2 Single crochet in first st, single stitches in the stitch


Rnd 5: * Single crochet decrease, single crochet in following 3
sts, repeat from * around, joining, chain 1. (12 sts)
Change to White yarn, then continue to alternate between colors

every 2 rounds.

1.
Leaving Fastened off a long tail and stuff.
Flatten opening and use to sew onto long tail body under the
head.
Ears (make 2):
With White yarn, ch 5, Single crochet in second chain from the

hook in remaining 3 chs, chain 1, turn. (4 sts)
Row 2: 2 Single crochet in first st, Single crochet in other 2

stitches, 2 Single crochet in last st, chain 1, turn. (6 sts)
Rows 3–5: Single crochet in each st across, chain 1, turn.
Row 6: Single crochet decrease, Single crochet in other 2

stitches, sc2 Single crochet decrease tog over last 2 sts, chain 1,
turn. (4 sts)
Row 7: Single crochet in every stitch across, chain 1, turn.
Row 8: Single crochet decrease twice, then continue to single

crochet in the whole ear, add to the second single crochet, causing
the cup near the ear.
Leaving Fastened off a long tail and sew onto head.
Tail:
With Black yarn, chain 1 1, sl st in second chain from the hook
and the remaining 9 chs, fasten it off.
Knot 2 strands of Black yarn through last ch so that when knotted

it makes a short tassel of 4 strands.
Hair:
Cut 52 strands of Black yarn about 12 inches long. Insert hook

through a st on the top of head, then hook center of a single 12-inch
strand of yarn and pull through. Now hook the 2 ends of the yarn and
pull through the loop. Pull tight. Repeat, creating about 13 rows of
the mane, each row 4 strands across. Trim yarn after entire hair
mane is finished to even out.
Yak
Body:
With Taupe yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and single crochet
in ring make 10, join to first single crochet, chain 1.
Rnd 2: 2 single crochet in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1. (20 sts)
Round 3: *2 sc in every stitch ext st, single crochet in following

stitch, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (30 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1.
Rnd 5: * single crochet in following stitch t st, single crochet in

next 2 stiches, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (40 sts)
Round 7: * single crochet in the stitch that followsitch st, sc in

subsequent 3 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (50 sts)
Round 20: *Single crochet decrease, sc in subsequent 3 sts,

Round 23: * Single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 2

stiches, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (30 sts)
Round 26: * Single crochet decrease, single crochet in following

stitch t st, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (20 sts)

Fasten a long tail off leaving and stuff, leaving top open.
Head:
With Taupe yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and single crochet
Rnd 2: 2 sc in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1. (20 sts)
Rnd 4: * single crochet in following stitch, repeat from * arnd, join,

chain 1. (30 sts)
Round 6: * single crochet in following stitch, single crochet in next

2 stiches, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (40 sts)
Round 7: * single crochet in the stitch that follows, sc in

subsequent 3 sts, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (50 sts)
Round 16: * Single crochet decrease, sc in subsequent 3 sts,

Round 18: * Single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 2

stiches, repeat from * arnd, join, chain 1. (30 sts)
Round 20: * Single crochet decrease, sc in next stitch t st, repeat

At this point attach the safety eyes. Then stuff before closing the
head.
Round 22: Single crochet decrease arnd, join, chain 1. (10 sts)
Fasten a long tail off leaving.
Snout:
With Honey yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and single crochet
in ring make 10nd make 10 sc in ring, join to first single crochet n to
first sc, chain 1.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in every stitch arnd, join, chain 1. (20 sts)
Rnd 4: * single crochet in following stitch, repeat from * arnd, join,

chain 1. (30 sts)
Fasten a long tail off leaving
Stuff and to sew onto front of head directly under eyes, use the
long tail
Legs (make 2):
With Honey yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and make 6 single
stitches in ring, join to first single crochet, chain 1.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in every stitch arnd, join, ch 2. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: 2 double crochet in first 3 sts, 2 hdc in next 2 sts, single

crochet in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in last 2 sts, join, chain 1. (24 sts)
Rnd 4: Working in back loops only for this round, sc in every

stitch arnd, join, change to Taupe yarn, chain 1.
Round 7: Single crochet decrease 6 times, sc in remaining 12

sts, join, chain 1. (18 sts)
Round 9: Single crochet decrease 5 times, sc in remaining 8 sts,

join, chain 1. (13 sts)
Fasten a long tail off leaving and stuff.
Onto bottom of body, use long tail to sew.
Arms (make 2):
With Honey yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and single crochet
Round 2: * single crochet in following stitch, start from * arnd,

join, chain 1. (15 sts)
Rnd 5: * Single crochet decrease, sc in subsequent 3 sts, start

from peat from * arnd, join, change to Taupe yarn, chain 1. (12 sts)

Flatten opening and sew onto body under the head, use long tail.
Horns (make 2):
With White yarn, create a magic ring, chain 1 and make 4 sc in

ring, join to first single crochet, chain 1.
Round 2: * sc in following stitch, start from * arnd, join, chain 1. (6

sts)
Rnd 4: * sc in following stitch, single crochet in subsequent 2

stiches, start from * arnd, join, chain 1. (8 sts)
Round 6: * sc in following stitch, sc in subsequent 3 sts, repeat

start from from * arnd, join, chain 1. (10 sts)
Round 8: Single crochet decrease, sc in each remaining st, chain

1, turn. (9 sts)
Sew onto sides of head using the long tail.
Ears (make 2):
With Honey yarn, ch 5, sc in second chain from hook and in

remaining 3 chs, chain 1, turn. (4 sts)
Row 2: single crochet in first st, single crochet in next 2 stiches, 2
single crochet in last st, chain 1, turn. (6 sts)
Rows 3–5: Sc in every stitch across, chain 1, turn.
Row 6: Single crochet decrease, single crochet in next 2 stiches,

Single crochet decrease over last 2 sts, chain 1, turn. (4 sts)
Row 7: Sc in every stitch across, chain 1, turn.
Row 8: Single crochet decrease twice, then continue to sc around

entire ear, join to the second sc, causing the ear to cup.
Fasten a long tail off leaving and sew onto head under horns.
Tail:
With Taupe yarn, chain 11, sl st in second chain from hook and
the remaining 9 chs, fasten it off.
Knot 4 strands of Taupe yarn through last ch so that when

knotted it makes a short tassel of 8 strands.
Hair:
Cut 30 strands of Taupe yarn about 12 inches long. Insert hook

through a st on the top of head, then hook center of a single 12-inch
strand of yarn and pull through. Now hook the 2 ends of the yarn and
pull through the loop. Pull tight. Continue in this manner all around
top of head, creating about 30 double strands. Trim yarn after entire
hair mane is finished to even out.
Chapter 9: Crochet tips and tricks
1. To avoid balls of yarn from falling and rolling, place them in
reused hand wipe jar of cylindrical shape. Just like wipes,
the yarn will also come out through the same hole.
2. Mark your rows by using a stitch marker, bobby pin, safety
pin.
3. Store your crochet hooks in the jewelry box, pencil box or
travelling toothpaste holder. You can also hang your hooks
on a small piece of wool. A multipurpose storage box is also
a good option.
4. Highlight your pattern with different colors so that you can
understand it easily. Underline different stitches. If your
patterns demand rows of different color, highlight the rows
with the same color or with the colors that you have decided
to use.
5. Always keep abbreviations, measurements, hook and yarn
weights table in printable forms so that you can easily use
them whenever you want.
6. Use rapped or leftover yarns to make pom poms, Afghan
squares, bracelets and many more articles like these.
7. If you use the homespun yarn for your pattern, then metal
hooks are a better option than plastic ones.
8. If you love to do crochet during travelling, prepare a
separate crochet box. Always have travel-friendly crochet
tools, for example, foldable scissors that are easy to carry
and also will not snug the things in the bag.
9. Many crochet patterns do not go well with ironing. So
instead of it, take an equal quantity of water and starch and
spray the pattern with it and let it dry on a flat surface.
10. Store the crochet patterns in your notebook by using sheet
protectors.
11. Make sure you sit in proper position to provide enough
support to your elbows, and hands during crocheting.
12. Take breaks after regular intervals to refresh yourself.
13. There are a variety of hand massage and stretching
techniques. So do any of them that you find it easy to relax
your hand muscles.
14. Using ergonomic crochet tools such as circular needles is
also useful to avoid hand fatigue.
15. Use stress relief gloves.
16. Pick up your hook every day. The hardest part about
learning how to crochet is training your hand to hold your
hook (and the yarn) with the correct tension. At first, it feels
a little awkward and unnatural but if you make it a habit of
picking up your hook every day when you are first learning
the craft; it will become easy in no time. Do not give up and
keep in mind that practice makes perfect!
17. Begin with small projects. Learning how to crochet takes
time and most of the times, beginners feel discouraged
when they are not able to complete a project – I mean, who
wouldn’t? The best thing to do is to start with small
attainable projects. There is no better feeling than
completing your very own first project. Start with small items
such as squares, mandalas and coasters before moving
onto larger projects such as blankets and cushions
18. Chain, chain, chain. When learning to crochet, making
several chains is the best way to improve your tension
since they are the foundation of all stitches. You will be
ready for stitches that are more complicated once all your
chains look nice and even
19. Make stitch swatches. You can work on small swatches to
help you to familiarize yourself with the different stitches.
You can even sew these swatches together to create face
cloths or small blankets
20. Avoid Changing Hooks in the Middle of a Project. Your
stitches should be consistent throughout the whole project.
When you switch hooks mid-project, you risk creating an
inconsistency. Even changing same size hooks from one
manufacture to another can be problematic. This is
because the size of the hook is not always the same
between manufacturers and small change in how the hooks
are shaped can change the way you create your stitches or
hold the hook hence the need of practice swatches.
FAQ
Can you wash an entire skein?
In some cases, you may need to wash the skeins or yarn balls
before use (spillages etc.) and although this can be difficult it is
possible. The trickiest part about this is to ensure that the yarn
doesn’t unravel which you can do by putting it in a pair of tights or
washing bag beforehand. However, make sure to follow the same
washing guidelines and check to see that all detergent has been
rinsed out (you may need to hand rinse them to make sure as this
could cause irritation if there is residue)
How often should you wash yarn or wool?

This depends on the amount of wear and the purpose of the
project. For example, a crochet bag may only need to be sponged
down once in a while whereas clothes would need to be washed
more frequently. Clothes such as socks would definitely need to be
washed after each use to avoid any fungal or bacterial infections
while a jumper may be worn a few times before needing to be
washed. It entirely depends.
Can you dye your own yarn?

The answer to this is yes and the easiest types of yarn to dye are
those that are animal fibers, for example alpaca, wool or mohair.
Make sure to protect your skin and clothes when dying your own
yarn as it easily transfers and can cause a large mess. For synthetic
yarn you will need to buy specific dye to use for the fiber.
Can you get rid of old stains and smells?

Yes, however not always and a lot of dried on stains or lingering
smells are hard to get rid of. The longer the stain or smell has been
present on the fiber, the harder it is to get rid of.
How long can you keep yarn or wool for?

Wool or yarn can be kept for a very long time over a range of
years if it is stored properly in the right conditions and maintained.
Wool that has been kept for over 10 years may not be viable for
crocheting or knitting because it has started to degrade but this
depends on the type. Organic fibers that haven’t been treated may
not last as long as store-bought that have been chemically treated.
How do you store yarn?

Store in skeins or balls in a dry place and make sure to clean out
and check frequently to avoid your stash coming into contact with a
lot of dust, moths or pests that might contaminate the supply. In
addition, avoid getting your stash wet and ensure that you frequently
air it out to avoid there being a musty smell embedded in the yarn.
Conclusion
Crochet beginners and experts alike enjoy creating projects from
patterns. Although it is possible to use the beginner stitches and
make a blanket without a pattern, a pattern will provide more detail.
Some patterns use small crochet appliques or alternating patterns
and the project patterns show how to do it.
Many crocheters learn to make their own patterns and graphs

from the abbreviations and symbols they have learned. Once you
master all of the stitches you will be able to make your own patterns
so others can make project you have designed.
Using patterns may seem difficult and overwhelming at first but

once you are used to seeing the abbreviations and symbols your
skills will improve. Stick to patterns and graphs for beginners, these
use beginner stitches so you can learn at your own pace.
Learning the skill to read and follow graphs and patterns will
allow you to create more than just a scarf or simple throw. You will
be able to complete heirloom quality projects, winter clothing such as
sweaters, mittens, gloves, hats and scarfs, dresses, home décor
such as doilies or place mats and runners, and even toys for the
kids.
Use your new found ability to make gifts for loved ones and
friends alike. Everyone enjoys receiving a handmade item that is
useful and beautiful. No matter what you decide to make, the time
and effort you put into the creation will show in the finished product.

Crochet For Beginners - Complete - Emma Mistery

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Crochet For Beginners - Complete - Emma Mistery

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Complete Guide Step by Step with Pictures

Legal & Disingle crochetlaimer

The information contained in this book and its contents is not

The content and information contained in this book has been

Upon using the contents and information contained in this book,

You agree to accept all risks of using the information presented

Chapter 1: How to read and understand crochet

Chapter 2: Tools and material

Chapter 3: Understanding Pattern.

Chapter 4: Crochet terminology.

Chapter 5: Types of crochet

Basic and Advanced stitches:

Starting and finishing project.

Another benefit of crocheting is treating depression, stress and

Crochet. Being a combination of loops blended together with a

This book contains all the information you need as a beginner to

Crochet is also remarkably easier to pick up over knitting; crochet

Choosing the Best Yarn for Crochet

Acrylic yarn: Acrylic is generally a popular yarn among crochet

Cotton yarn: It’s an inelastic fiber thereby making it a bit more

Additional Yarn Tips and Considerations

Yarn weight: Yarns come in different thicknesses as well. This

Following is a list of the most-common yarn weights and their

Yarn yardage: Each ball of yarn has different yardage amounts,

Washing details: fiber types have different instructions for

Crochet hooks come in a wide variety of types for you to choose

When choosing a crochet hook you should go with what feels

The average crochet hook works for anyone and it definitely

Material: A basic crochet hook can be made of several common

Size: The sizes of the hooks vary; they are measured in

Crochet hooks can be found in a variety of sizes, all of which

CROCHET HOOK SIZE

Hook throat: A throat of a crochet hook is either an inline or

Types of Crochet Hooks

Let us now look at the various types of crochet hooks at your

Thread Crochet Hooks

Light-up crochet hooks

If you suffer from insomnia or if you simply want to crochet in the

Ergonomic crochet hooks

Tunisian crochet hooks/ Afghan crochet hooks

Tunisian crochet uses a set of stitches that are completely

Other Tools You May Need

These handy little things, although typically for knitting, can

Patterns are either made in rounds or rows. The pattern

How to read a crochet pattern?

To the uninitiated, a crochet pattern might look like it’s written in a

The materials section is where the designer indicates everything the

Gauge is a dreaded word to even experienced crocheters, but it

A pattern will indicate gauge either over 1 inch or 4 inches of

Before beginning a project, the crocheter checks that they are

The crocheter should generally change the hook size before

The abbreviations section includes all of the abbreviations used in

Asterisks – Asterisks are used to indicate repeats of sections of

Parentheses – Parentheses are used to indicate repeats, often

New crocheters should remember that although these are common

Also, consider that pattern keys can be slightly written in different

Reading a crochet pattern is like learning a foreign language. It’s

Basic Stitches Abbreviations: Meaning:

You can now practice your skills in reading pattern abbreviations

Row 1: ch10; sc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.

Now let's try a double crochet.

An Afghan Crochet is also known as Tunisian Crochet. Afghan

Row 2: Ch 3, Turn, work 3 dc in the skip 2 ch space, Repeat