Ferguson TE20 WORKSHOP REPAIR MANUAL Covers the parts you most wanted to know about regarding this popular little tractor. OLD 20 Parts Company Published by: ‘Tracprez Publleations Caversish Bridge, Srarclew, Derby. DE72 2HLPAGE 12 16 15 17 18 20 al 22 23 25 26 27 28 32 34 37 42 45 48 49 53. 54 55 57 58 59 CONTENTS Specifications and capacities Valve gear (engine) Valves Cyl. Pistons and connecting rods Crankshaft and bearings il pump The governor Cooling system The diesel engine The oil pump Cylinder head To bleed the fuel system Camshaft and timing gears Valve timing Cyl. Liners and connecting rods The clutch ‘The transmission The rear axle The hydraulics Brakes Steering Front axle Electrical system Starter safety switch Ignition system Carburettor Air cleaner Water circulation and thermostat Bonnet and PTO assemblyWARNING. KEEP A NEW TRACTOR ON LIGHT WORS FOR FIFTY HOURS. KBEP YUR FUEL STOCK AND HANDLING FACILITIES CLEAN DO NOT CARRY GOODS ON A HYDRAULIC IMPLEMENT KEEP ALL NUTS AND BOLTS TIGHT ESPECIALLY WHEEL NUTS AND BOLTS ALWAYS USE P.7.0.GUARDS NEVER USE LINKAGE DRAWRAR WITHOUT STAYS ALLOW TEN SECONDS TO BLAPSE BETWEEN EACH SEPARATE STARTER OPERATION IT 1S HIGHLY DANGEROUS TO PULL ANYTHING, FROM, THE TOP LINK CONNECTION, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNEDKyjuson SERVICE MANUAL ‘This book is meant to provide a gitide to the care and vepaiv of the GREY FERGUSON 20 TRECTOR it also covere the earlier Continental petrol engine model. As with other editions it te reproduced at the lowest cost we can,even though thie means using low cost paper.and printing it ourselves,the reason for this economy ta that if we produce a high quai ity,high coat book it will not be Iikely that mechanice will use it under workshop conditions we feel, if this te eo the whole point of having a workehop book is defeated. This low cost version is provided on the theory that if it becomes too dirty om danaged for further use it can be replaced at modest cost. Ist.Bdition February 1956 Qnd.Bdition August 1994 No part of thie publication may de copied, reproduced or sold without the written permigsion of the publisher CAVENDISH BRIDGE,SKARDLOW,NEAR DERBY DE72-2HLTE20 OIL CAPACITIES ENGINE SUMP PET/TVO. ENGINE SUMP TEF DIESEL ‘TRANSMISSION/HYDRAULICS STEERING BOX FRONT HUBS AIR CLEANER BELT PULLEY COOLING SYSTEM TE-A/D20 SPECIFICATION 12 Pints / 6.8 litres 12 Pints / 6,8 litres 5 Gals. 5 Pints 5/8th. Pint 3/4 Pint 1/2 Pine 15 pints Anti-Freeze / with Anti-Corrosion FUEL TANK FUEL TANK FUEL TANK TE-A/20 TE-D/20 TE-D/20 TEF 20 AUX. TANK — TEF 20 KI-GASS TANK TEF 20 TRACP F RIEZ 8 Gals. 7 Gals. 1 Gat. 22,8 litres / 2.9 litres 7 .30 litre / 45 litre / .28 litre / 8.5 litres inhibitor 7 Gals./31.85 Litres 3/4 Gal. / 3.40 Litres 3/4 Pint / 43 Litre ERGUSON T2O MANUAL SAE 30 SAB 30 SAE 40 SAE 40 SAE 40 SAE 40 SAB 40 Petrol TVvO. Petrol Diesel Diesel Ki-GassTRACPREZ FERGUSON T20 MANUAL TRACTOR DIMENSIONS TE 20 OVERALL, LENGTH 9 ft.7ins. WHEEL BASE 5 ft.10ins. OVERALL WIDTH 5 ft,4ins. OVERALL HEIGHT © Less silencer 4 ft.8ins GROUND CLEARANCE 13ins. STANDARD TYRES FRONT 400 X 19 REAR 10-00 TRACK ADJUSTMENT In Gin. Steps FRONT 4ft.to 6ft.8ins. 1219 to 2032 REAR 4ft.to 6ft 4ins. 1219 to 1930 TURNING CIRCLE 48in.Track without brakes 19 ft.3ins. with brakes 17 ft.6ins. WEIGHT PET. / TVO. dry 2446 lbs. DIESEL dry 2770 Ibs. 2921 1778 1625 1320 330 x 28 mm mm 5867 5334 1110 1256 mn kg.TRACPREZ FERGUSON T20 MANUAL ENGINE SPECIFICATION STANDARD MOTOR COMPANY PETROL ENGINE TYPE TEA 20 BORE 80 mn. STROKE 92mm. PISTON DISPLACEMENT 112.9 cuvins, 1850 cc. COMPRESSION RATIO 5.77 tol MAXIMUM BELT HORSE POWER 23.9 STANDARD MOTOR COMPANY TVO ENGINE TYPE TED 20 BORE 85 mm. STROKE 92mm. PISTON DISPLACEMENT 127 cu,ins, 2088 cc. COMPRESSION RATIO 4.8 to 1 MAXIMUM BELT HORSE POWER 23.9 STANDARD MOTOR COMPANY DIESEL ENGINE TYPE TEF 20 BORE 80.96 mm. STROKE 101.6 mm, PISTON DISPLACEMENT 127.68 cu.ins. 2092 cc. COMPRESSION RATIO 17.to 1 MAXIMUM BELT HORSE POWER at 2000 revs. 26.ERA 20 PETROL MO’ CYLINDER HEAD NU- BIG END NUTS MAIN BEARING NUT! FLYWHEEL CAP SCRI TED 20 PETROL / AS PRIR TEF_20 DIESEL MO CYLINDER HEAD NU° BIG END NUTS MAIN BEARING SOC) CENTRE BEARING St OIL PUMP FIXING CLUTCH FIXING SCI FLYWHEEL SET SCR INJECTOR FIXING TRACPR FE TIGHTENING TORQUES TOR, iTS 60-65 42-46 'S 90-100 EWS: 42-46 TVO MOTOR OL MOTOR TOR TS 75-80 65-70 KET SCREWS: 25-30 SOCKET SCREWS 39-42 16-18 REWS 26-28 EWS: 90-100 SCREWS 12-14 IBZ Ibs lbs lbs Lbs ibs lbs lbs lbs lbs lbs lbs Ibs ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft RGUSON T20 or or” or or or or or or or or or or 8.25-8.95 5,80-6.40 12.4-13.8 5.80-6.40 10.4-11,1 9.00-9.70 3.50-4.10 5.40-5,.60 2,20-2.50 3,60-3,90 12.4-13.8 1.60-1.90 MANUAL KG/M KG/M KG/M KG/ KG/M ke/M Ke/M KG/M KG/M KG/M KG/M KG/MTRACPREZ FERGUSON T20 MANUAL FERGUSON 20 QUICK SERVICE INFORMATION PETROL & TVO MODELS FIRING ORDER 1342 TAPPET CLEARANCE (HOT) ‘Inlet & Exhaust 13 Thou in VALVE SEAT & FACE ANGLE Inlet & Exhaust 45 Degrees IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR Lucas D3A4 IGNITION TIMING Retard TDC . Advanced 29 Degrees BTDC DISTRIBUTOR CONTACT BREAKER GAP 15 Thou.in SPARK PLUG GAP. 25 Thou.in, ENGINE MINIMUN IDLE SPEED 400 REM, ENGINE MAXIMUM NO LOAD SPEED 2200 RPM. ENGINE MAXIMUM LOADED SPEED 2000 RPM. POWER TAKE OFF SPEED at 2200 Engine rpm.= 800 POWER TAKE OFF SPEED at max load 2000 Engine rpm.= 727 POWER TAKE OFF SPEED at Engine 1574 (aprox.) is 540 std.rpm. CHANGE ENGINE OTL EVERY 60 RUNNING HOURS DIESEL ENGINE FIRING ORDER 1342 TAPPET CLEARANCE COLD +012 in. VALVE FACE & SEAT ANGLE 45 Degrees INJECTION TIMING (spill cut off) 30 Degrees BIDC. CHANGE ENGINE OIL EVERY 120 RUNNING HOURS.TRACPREZ FERGUSON T20 MANUAL SIMPLE DATING GUIDE TO THE FERGUSON 20 TRACTOR LAST IN 1946 FIRST T 20 BUILT 1946 1947 1948 1949 1950 1951 1952 1953 1954 1955 1956 85 mm engine first number Number Number Number, 316 20895 “T1773 to to to Number 116462 to Number 167837: ‘to First Diesel tractor Number Number Number Number Number 241336 310780 367999 428093 488579 to to to to to No; | 315 20894 71772 116461 167836 241335 172501 250001 310779 367998 428092, 488578, 517652 10SERVICE AND REPAIR SECTION SAPETY DO REMEMBER WHEN WORKING ON TRACTORS ‘THAT THEY ARE VERY HEAVY AND CAN DAMAGE YOUR BODY VERY EASILY SO BE SURE ALL LIFTING AND WORKING EQUIPMENT ZS IN GOOD ORDER AND STRONG ENOUGH FOR THE JOB IN HAND. BE CAREFULL AT ALL’ TIMES ESPECIALLY WITH PETROL, AND NAKED LIGHTS. KEEP WORKING AREAS CLEAN AND TIDY.FERGUSON TE 20 & TO 20 The first of the Ferguson T 20 tractors made in 1946 and 1947 were fitted with an American “Continental * engine, this was soon replaced with an engine manufactured by the Standard motor company. The early tractors are not rare, but there ate of course many more tractors fitted with the later engine: This manual covers all models including the early engine and the later diesel engine. The tractors fitted with the “Continental * engine are easy to recognise because the oil filler is at the front of the engine whilst all the other models have it at the rear The tractors built in England are described as the TE 20 models ( Tractor England) whilst those built in the American plant are designated as TO 20 ( Tractor Overseas). There is also an American built tractor designated TO 30. This is basically the same tractor with a slightly larger engine, but this model is not found in the UK This part of the service manual will deat with the Ferguson petro! and petrol T.V.O. engines, including the Standard engine and the Continental one, this is designated as the model 2120 whilst the Continental engine used in the TO 30 tractor is the Z 129 model. There are no hidden snags to look for when removing or replacing the engines simple everyday tools and knowledge is sufficient. But do be careful with Jacks or lifting gear, even small tractors like the Ferguson have heavy parts capable of crushing bones like paper. The objective is to first remove hood, fuel tank and front axle, when these components are out of the way and connections such as electric leads, control rods, air cleaner hose etc, are removed. The cap screws holding the engine to the clutch housing can be taken out and the engine unit drawn 12 forward with a workshop hoist and taken to a bench for inspection. All tractors fitted with Z type engines were originally petrol driven and it is likely that those operating in America still are, In the UK many were converted to vaporising oil fuel later in their life, this was usually done by fitting a new manifold and a spacer plate with two cylinder head gaskets, thus avoiding buying a new cylinder head and pistons. Some people just paid for the spacer plate and did not buy the hot spot manifold, but unless the tractor was working very hard and consequently was always hot, the engine life would be significantly reduced by excessive oil dilution in the sump and these tractors when bought from a used tractor lot may need more money spent on them than either the original petrol engine or one correctly converted to T.V.O, VALVE GEAR With the engine on a solid bench, dismantling can begin, it is not obligatory to remove the engine to fit new valves, piston rings, bearings etc. but this profile is written with the preservation movement in mind, knowing full well that most enthusiasts want to’ go thoroughly over the whole Unit, In service of course the object is to get the tractor back to work as quickly as possible so many repair operations would be undertaken with the engine left in place Also of course, the Ferguson dealer would have avaliable to him many special tools which all helped to speed matters up considerably. It is assumed the enthusiast will not have access to these tools and this manual will explain how to work without them although this may mean extra work and take a little ‘extra time. To inspect valve gearit will be much easier if the cylinder head is first removed, take off the valve cover and remove the rocker shatt, lay it to one side for future inspection. Now unscrew the cylinder-head nuts in the order shown below, first loosen each nut hall a turn and then remove them entirely. This is the order it will be necessary to tighten them when the cylinder head is replaced, remember to replace ail the washers under the nuts and tighten them to a torque of 60-65 FT. LBS With the cylinder head removed, turn to the rocker shaft again, see illustration below, this shows only one vaive and rocker arm but is sufficient for comment to be made on the dismantling of complete shaft. 13 First knock out the pin retaining the locating collar on the left hand side of the diagram. Now remove each spring washer and rocker arm from the shaft by sliding them off this end being sure to lay them out on a flat surface in the order that they were removed. Also the valve push rods should be set out, preferably in the order that they were removed from the eylinder head. Wash all parts thoroughly and then inspect them, clearance between focker arm bushes and the shaft should be 0.003", if it exceeds 0.006" then new parts are required. The rocker arm contact point to valve stem should be slightly rounded, if there is wear, perhaps pockets in the face, they should be replaced or built up and retaced. Make sure the parting springs of the rocker shaft are in good order and when assembiing the rocker shaft make certain the cil hole. drillings in the shaft face the valve springs. When starting an engine after stripping be certain oll is being delivered to the valve gear. The supply comes through a drilling in the rear of the cylinder block, into the cylinder head and via the rear rocker shaft pedestal into the shaft Blocked oil ways or extremely low oil pressure may result in starvation and damage to the valve gear, correct pressure is minimum 15 psi. To maximum 30 psi at maximum engine revs. If oil pressure exceeds 30 psi. At maximum revs. Too much oil may be delivered to the valve gear with consequent leakage down the valve stems causing excessive oil consumption and oiled plugs. Check the push rods are not bent ( roll across a fiat surface) and the ends are not worn, Tappet clearance is- Exhaust hot 0.012" Inlet Hot 0.010" Push rods, rocker arms and shaft areinterchangeable between Continental Z type engines but different on Standard motor company engines, VALVES Remove. valves by compressing the spring with a valve spring compressor, remove half round tapered collets, being sure not to lose the caps fitted to the end of the valve stems. On original T.O. 30 engines these valve caps were of the rotating type on exhaust valves, these were available as “in field” conversions. All models should have spring loaded plastic or'special rubber seals fitted on inlet valve stems. Inlet valves are seated directly into the cylinder head, exhaust valves have steel inserts placed in the head from new, valve seat angle 45 degrees, valve head angle 44 degrees, best seat width 5/64" see illustration below. Reface to 44 degrees (valve) Go Reface to iS degrees (seat) Valvés are not interchangeable between T.O. and T.E. engines but valve guides are. Guides should be pressed into cylinde? head until measurement from face of head to end of guide is 1 and 14/16". Valve stem to guide clearance should be inlet 0.001", exhaust 0.002" Valve springs are of the “damped” type with the coils closer at one end than the other, this could be interpreted as 4 weakness but this is not.so, ‘damped * ‘end of spring is placed downwards. The correct test for a spring is to compress spring with a pull gauge. 100 LB. pull will compress a spring to t and 27/64", vaive-open length. A, 50 LB. Pull will compress spring to a length of 1 and 45/64" closed length Cam: followers are of the mushroom head type and only supplied in one size, clearance in cylinder block is 0.001". VALVE TIMING Valves are correctly timed when the single mark on thé crankshaft gear _mates withthe double mark on the camshaft gear. TE 20 tractors prior to serial 36151 Have a@ line on the crankshaft-pulley which mates with a line on the timing gear cover to denote TDC., if there is no mark on the crankshaft pulley, remove the. starter and find two punch marks in fiywhee! housing in the starter orifice, these will mate .with two’ marks on flywheel at TDC. On TE. 20 tractors after 36151 and all TO tractors there is a flywheel inspection cover on the ignition side of the engine. When thé cover is removed a TDC. Mark and single degree lines on the flywheel can be lined up against a pointer exposed in the inspection hole. At this point number 4 cylinder inlet valve, with tappet clearance set at 0.012" should just have the clearance taken up and be ready to open. If this is not so then the timing gears must be exposed and either the camshaft gear taken off the camshaft and refitted using the other two holes to mount it giving half a tooth difference or the timing chain moved one tooth to obtain the desired result. The TE20 and TO 20 camshafts are interchangeable, te TO 30 is different. To remove camshaft with engine on thebench take-off the governor assembly, camshaft gear, ignition distributor. oil sump and oil. pump, also remove the camshaft retainer piate from behind the camshaft gear. With engine on the bench, remove cylinder head and turn Sngine until it-stands upside down, this will allow the cam followers to drop down and then. the camshaft can be withdrawn from the front of the engine Note the drilling in the front of the camshaft for the governor shaft and its small bore pressure relief hole. This is drilled to relieve pressure, air or hydraulic. The drilling is to be found just behind number 1 cam, If this hole is blocked the governor action is likely to be sluggish or erratic. Maximum tolerance of camshaft in cylinder block plain bearings is 0.0007" CYLINDERS, PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS The TE 20 and TO 20 pistons and liners are not the same. Pistons are of alloy, original replacements supplied in standard sizes only, in kits of piston, pin, liner and rings. Recommended clearance of piston in bore is 0.005", but you can almost double that if piston rings are good and the gap does not exceed 0.012", side clearance of rings in groove is recommended at 0.003" maximum, Wet type cylinder sleeves are fitted and need a puller to extract them. Before fitting replacements clean faces thoroughly and lubricate the sealing tings with vegetable oil or detergent Top of cylinder sieeve should extend 0.004" maximum above cylinder block face Pistons with rods and big ends are removed from the top of the engine. Piston pins are fully floating and retained by snap rings in the piston, new diameter is 0.8591" to 0.8593" 15 Lubrication is by oil fed from big end via a hole in the top of connecting rod, be sure it is not blocked by carbon or other foreign matter. Thin plain bearings are fitted in the top of the connecting rod. Numbered marks on the big end of rod and cap should be on the same side, New rods are not marked but oil spray hole in top of big end should be on the opposite side to camshaft, Tighten big end cap screws to a torque of 40 to 45 FT. LBS. CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS. The crankshaft runs on 3 shimless main bearings, they are fitted with detachable liners which may be replaced without removing the crankshaft. To repiace these shells you must loosen all the main bearing caps and remove the two cap screws holding the rear main oil seal carrier to the main bearing cap The front and rear main bearing shells can be removed by taking off each cap in turn and and push each top half of the shell round the crankshaft in the direction of the locking tab until it can be removed. Place the other half of the bearing into the cap and replace it, lighten up the main bearing cap screws until they are not quite fully tightened. When the front and rear bearings are replaced it is time to attend to the centre ‘one, this is slightly different but only in the case of two thrust washers being fitted each side of the bearing Fit the bearing as you did with the other two but replace the thrust washers by pushing the top halves round the crankshaft and then sliding into place the replacement halves. The big end bearings can be replaced by unscrewing and removing the bearing caps and fitting the replacement shells, Be sure to fit all bearing caps in the way they were removed, identification number toidentification number and the oil-hole in the big end bearing on the opposite side to the camshaft. Tighten main bearing caps to a torque of 90 to 100 FT. LBS Bearing shells are available in sizes std. Minus .010", .020°, 030", and .040". Thrust washers available in .005" plus only. TO REPLACE REAR CRANK SEAL This can only be done by spiitting the tractor between the clutch housing and the engine, with this operation completed, remove the clutch assembly so the four cap screws in the centre of the flywheel are exposed. The sump must also be removed to allow the two cap screws which pass through the rear main bearing cap into the seal retainer, to be taken out. Before removing the flywheel cap screws set the number one piston on its compression stroke and place it at top dead centre, the flywheel should then have its TDC mark opposite the inspection hole on the clutch housing. ft is necessary todo this because on most engines the flywheel can be replaced in two different positions, this, is associated with the positioning of the dowels in the flywheel. With the lock tabs on the flywheel cap screws, unlocked and the screws removed, take off the flywheel. Unscrew the cap ‘screws holding the rear seal carrier and remove the rear oil seal. Rebuild in reverse order. Coating the seal face with oil, ip must face engine.THE OIL PUMP On the TE 20 petrol and TVO engines the oil pump is bolted to the underside of the cylinder block and is driven by a skew gear from the camshaft, the upper part drives the ignition distributor. The illustration below shows the layout of the cylinder block and oil pump. may be due to worm crankshaft bearings, or perhaps the oval filter shown in the diagrarn may need cleaning, oil for the pump is drawn through this and should it be partly blocked low pressure will result, It can be removed from the right hand side of the sump, when replacing it be sure to align it so the oil pipe to the oil pump enters it correctly. The make up of the oil pump allows of no adjustments to be made and if itis found to be worn must be replaced, however, before taking this step check the following things. Low oil pressure VT The pressure relive vaive may be faulty, see next page, is the oil too thin, or perhaps needs changing, on TVO fuel it should be changed every 50 hours tunning, 100 hours being the interval forpetro! powered engines. Oil filter, early type, there is a later type but it is very much the same. But can be recognised because it is fitted at an angle. Pressure relief valve replaced by a ball type govemor, this can be used to replace the flywheel type in service. The governor's a simple unit, whichever type is fitted. The instructions given given here cover all models. THE GOVERNOR Two types of governor have been fitted to the TE 20 tractor, the early types being fitted with a flyweight type, the weights being retained to a base plate, see illustration 3, item 1. This was replaced later in service to avoid wear on the pins retaining the weights. It was 18 Dismantling is quite simple, apart from having to remove radiator, bonnet, connections etc. If your engine has already been removed from the tractor then it is much simpler, With timing cover removed, pull out cup and shaft, 4, ill 3 (next page), but before removing cantre nut on camshaft check end float. if it exceeds 0.007", it will need thecopper pad 6, ill. 3, to be renewed. Replacing this part will ensure the governor. is not made erratic in its operation by end play in the camshaft. Again.before zemoving the camshaft cenire nut make sure the cup and shaft 4, I3, are fiee to move in and out, because if breather hole 7, IIL3, is blocked it will make its movement unstable. Illustration 3 With all parts cleaned and inspected for wear, and if necessary replaced the governor can be rebuilt, Assemble in reverse order to that of dismantling, when rebuilding be sure to install item 8 ILL. 3 with indent at “8” 9,clock. Note, in IlL3 the item 2, is the later type ball unit and the earlier type is shown in the square above. With the tractor rebuilt and ready to run the governor can now be adjusted, to do this open hand throttle control lever, disconnect rod 1, llL4 and adjust until, with carburettor butterfly fully open the vertical arm 2 IlL4, has to be moved towards front of tractor 1/82" for it to be connected to rod +. Now disconnect vertical rod 3, at position 4, set hand throttle to engine idle and check that link 5, is touching rod 6. If it is bearing strongly on rod 6 loosen “U" bolt 7, and reset so link just touches lightly. Reinstall rod 3 and with hand throttle still set in the idle position remove spring 8, and adjust rod 3 until base just Illustration 4 contacts lever 2, and holds it in engine idle position, reconnect spring 8, making sure all rod fock nuts are tightened up. Now warm up engine, disconnect rod 1 again and set slow running adjustment on carburettor to 400 to 450 RPM, reconnect rod 1, this should not alter engine idle speed. Now set engine maximum speed, slack off adjuster on timing cover 9, II 4, 3 turns, set hand throttle fully open, this should give maximum engine revs. of 2200 RPM. This can be checked by applying a rev. counter to the PTO shaft which should read 800 RPM. If revs. are not correctadjust be slacking off "U" bolt 7, and tuming shaft as required. Retighten "U" bolt and tum screw 9, Iil 4 until revs, are just beginning to increase, then tighten the lock nut. COOLING SYSTEM This is a straight forward cooling system, on early petrol tractors a 3 stud fitting water pump was used, on later tractors REC HESS IOS BISSy NI wee7d gS 20 a four stud fitting came into production, apart from this difference the several types of water pump used on the tractors are interchangeable. If you decide to replace a water pump seal always make sure you have a replacement the same as the one you took out of the pump. It is not now possible to specify which pump may be fitted to a particular tractor as age and replacements may have changed their original specification. Se POH a PETIT PASTo dismantle the pump, remove from engine and take out bolt 1,1I1.5, holding the impetior to shaft. Remove impellor and seal items 2 & 3 I5, remove circlip 4, and press shaft and bearings out of the casting, all parts: can now be inspected for wear-or damage. The illustration on page 20 shows two types of water pump used on the tractor. The ‘one pictufed in the upper half of the illustration is a later type and will most probably be found on the diesel tractor. The 3 stud fitting water pump will be found on most petro! tractors TEA 20, whilst on the early TVO. tractors designated TED 20, will most likely have the one illustrated in the bottom half of the split illustration, also these tractors will have fitted a cooling tube passing through the cylinder head, common to all TVO and diesel tractors. This tube can be extracted when the water pump is removed and should be inspected to ensure the holes in it, designed to allow cooled water to pass to each valve area, are clear: The diesel tractor is designafed TEF 20 and the water pump shown in the top hatf of the illustration ‘on page 20 is rhost likely to be found on that model. THERMOSTAT This is found in the outlet from the engine to the radiator, it should start to open at 160 Degrees F, and be fully open at 195 degrees F. The lift is half an inch. RADIATOR The petrol and TVO tractors are fitted with @ radiator incorporating a 4 Lbs. Pressure cap, this raises the coolant boiling point to 224 deg. F. The diesel engine tractor is fitted with a 7Lb. Cap raising the temperature boiling point to 234 deg, F. The radiator itself changed at serial number 350800 when solder dipping of the block was introduced to strengthen ‘the unit, a plate marked "D B" denoting 21 dipped block was affixed to the top tank, this radiator is interchangeable with earlier units, THE DIESEL ENGINE The Ferguson tractor when fitted with the diesel engine was designated the TEF 20 mode! and not the TED 20 which is the TVO model. The oil supply to a diesel engine is even more vital than that of a petrol engine and should be given the utmost consideration when carrying out a daily check, normal service or overhaul. Always remember the. compression ignition system provides more efficiency but this in itself brings higher loadings and finer tolerances. The first essential point is to use the correct oil, this is HD 20 in winter and HD 30 in summer. Do not use oil designed for petrol or TVO engines it is completely unsuitable, also do not be concemed that the oil in your TEF model is always black and looks as if it needs changing. This is proof that your HD oil’s detergent additives are working and keeping carbons and other undesirables in suspension so they do not corrode or otherwise damage the engine. The larger particles will be removed by the oil filter, whilst those microscopic bits able to pass through the filter will remain in the oil and be removed with it. This is why the oil change is done at the correct time, i.e. every 120 running hours with a filter change every 250 hours. The oil filter is illustrated on the next page, it has a by pass valve 1, and a pressure relief valve item 2, this is to ensure that the oil pressure is kept at 40 to 60 Lbs, The oil is passed from the outside of the filter element, through to the centre passage and so to the engine. Should the filter become blocked, usually by neglect, the relief vaive will open andallow oll to pass directly to the engine, this will not be filtered oil and will, of course, cause premature wear if allowed to continue for too long., the relief valve pressure is not adjustable and will be set below that of the pressure relief valve. Now a word about oil pressure, as already mentioned, 40 to 60 Lbs. Is ideal. This rather wide range allows for variations in temperature of the oil, but the engine is likely to run around 40 when hot . This is of course when there is very little wear in the engine and the pressure relief valve correctly set. If your engine runs on a lower pressure you may react, as many owners do and attempt to increase it by adjusting the pressure relief valve, 2, however on a worn engine this is unlikely to work. i iS 22 This does not mean your engine is worn out, by all means try screwing the adjuster in a little, but if this does not work, do not continue to screw it in or the pressure relief spring 3, may become coil bound. A low olt pressure is certainly ane indication of a wor engine ut if oil is circulating even at very low pressure there is little you an do about it, other than a complete engine overhaul. This may not be justified if the engine runs well and will most certainly cost a great deal of money. ‘lL PUMP. See illustration below, this is driven by a {gear from the front of the crankshaft and is bolted to the cap of the front main bearing. eee The oil pump is driven by a gear mounted on the front of the crankshaft. ‘The pump and gear can be removed when the timing cover has been removed, take out the pin holding the gear to the oll pump shaft and pull gear off the shaft. Take out the four bolts holding the oil pump to the front main bearing housing, note that the top right hand bolt has a fitted shank of slightly larger diameter and serves as a locating dowel, It must always be replaced in that positionTHE CYLINDER HEAD Complete overhaul of the engine will méan removing it from the tractor, this is a straight forward operation with lifting gear, but do be careful that you do not cause yourself any injury by using the wrong equipment or defective equipment. It is not necessary to remove the engine to work:on the cylinder head, but often if the cylinder head needs attention then the pistons or rings, even perhaps the bearings need attention, For the purpose of this book we ‘suppose you have removed the engine from the tractor completely and are now ready to dismantle it, below is an exploded view of the cylinder head With the engine on a bench first clean all fuel pipes and connections with clean diesel, use a paint brush for this, it is essential that no dirt is allowed to penetrate the fuel system. “After removing the pipes seal the ‘ends to stop ingress of ditt, leave the injectors in place for riow. Remove the’ breather pipe connecting the valve cover to the inlet manifold and remove the vaive cover. Then take off the manifold and water outlet at the front of the cylinder head, itis now important to make space ina convenient place to lay out the parts you are about to remove from the oyliider head. Remove the rocker shaft and décompressor rod, lay these to one side and take out the push rods, lay them out in order so they can be replaced in the same place. 23Now loosen the cylinder head bolts, start from the middle and foosen them half a tum each, then take them off altogether. The cylinder head should now lift off, fit is tight turn the engine over with a bar and hope. the compression will loosen the joint, this is why the injectors were left in place. when the cylinder head is loose remove the injectors. With the cylinder head on the bench itis now time to remove the valves. Use @ normal valve spring compressor being careful not to lose the split valve collets and the valve stem cap, place each valve in order it was taken out so it can be reground to its original seat. Now it is time to clean all the parts removed, but first inspect the cylinder head for identification of carbon type. A ‘small amount of grey carbon tells us that it is a hard working engine in reasonable order, a large amount of hard black carbon suggests some oil consumption, or the engine is doing predominantly light running. Soft spotty Carbon suggests injectors and possibly the fuel pump need attention. ‘Clean away ail traces of carbon with a scraper, wire brush or pneumatic tools and do not forget the valve ports and pre combustion chambers, then wash all parts thoroughly and dry them. The piston tops require cleaning also, but do be careful not too allow carbon to penetrate into the cooling ducts, | always push bits of newspaper into them before getting loose carbon about Cleaning the piston tops assumes you are not removing them, but are doing a simple de-coke operation, | now do not do this believing that if the cylinder head needs a de-coke then the piston rings and grooves are certainly in need also. Whilst operating on the cylinder head always scrape the gasket face and remove all traces of old gasket and gasket cement. When grinding valves 24 always use the finest compound that will remove all pits and marks on the seat face, aim to finish without pits or ridges and finish to a smooth light grey velvety finish. Always clean seats and valves with petrol to be sure all traces of valve grinding compound is removed, but do be careful that you do not cause @ fire Whilst using this volatile liquid. Before fitting the valves it is essential the valve springs are checked, the free length of the inner spring is 1.51" and that of the outer spring 1.6", if they measure less than this new ones are indicated. Before fitting the valves, carefully inspect the opening to the pre~ ‘combustion chamber, if this is scored or distorted a new one is indicated, this is 1a specialised job to remove the old one and fit a new one and is best left to a specialised machine company. Refit the valves, but if you intend to go deeper into the engine lay the cylinder head to one side, if not proceed as follows. Fit the head, always using a new gasket use gasket cement on both sides of it, screw the cylinder head bolts on , just finger tight then, working in systematic order, starting at the centre pull them down to a torque of 80 Ft, Lbs. Now fit the push rods and the rocker assembly, before tightening the rocker shaft down slacken off the tappet screws, this is to ‘ensure that the valves do not touch the piston whilst the engine is being tured. With the rocker shaft and decompressor shaft fitted, adjust the tappets 10,042" cold, for the metric minded this is "308mm.. To ensure the valve is in the correct cycle to adjust turn engine until number 8 valve is open and then adjust number 1. Follow this by number 7 valve and adjust number 2 and so on. Make sure the decompressor cams do not hold valves open, after the tappets are adjusted turn to the decompressor cam adjustments. Ensure the slot in the rear of the decompressor shaft isvertical, hold shaft in this position by fitting a 3/16" dowel through hole in number 2 support pedestal and into a corresponding hole in decompressor shaft. With the shaft firmly held ensure each exhaust valve is closed as outlined above ( adjtisting tappets) and. by loosening the clamp bolt on each cam, adjust clearance to 0.030" for cams number 1,2 and 4, the setting for number 3 cam is 0,045". Make sure all clamp bolts are tight, they should be fitted from the rocker shaft side. Remember to remove the dowel from Number 2, pedestal. Before fitting the valve cover and gasket do not over look the alignment of the decompressor shaft with its operating lever in the valve cover. With the head fitted it is time to fit the water manifold to the front of the head and the exhaust and inlet manifold to the side, see below for the tightening order of the manifold bolts. If you are just decarbonising the oylinder head and you have now refitted it to the block, it is time to fit the injectors. lt is always my recommendation that they should be checked by a diesel shop before using them, in that case they will have been retumed to you with new soft copper washers for their base. if you have decided not to have them checked go to your local diesel shop and buy four new copper washers. After 25 fitting the injectors lightly tighten the two nuts on each injector and finally pull them down to a torque of 12 to 14 Ft Lbs. Or 1.6 to 1.9 Kgm. Replace. the injector pipes on the fuel pump only, then rebuild the tractor until you are ready to start it. TO BLEED THE FUEL SYSTEM Before you can start the engine it will be necessary to "bleed’ the fuel system, ie, to remove all traces of air from it, or the engine will not start. The procedure is as follows. 1 Ensure there is plenty of fuel in the tank and that itis turned.on. 2 Unscrew the bleed screw on the rear of the fuel filter, this is the blind screw adjacent to the pipe union on the outside of the filter. If the tractor has a fuel lift pump fitted it will be necessary to operate the hand primer until fuel coming out of the bleed screw is completely clear of air bubbles. If no lift pump is fitted just let the fuel run from the bleed screw until it runs free of air bubbles. 3 now turn to the injector pump, note the two bleed screws, one just below number 1 injection pipe and one below number 4 injector pipe, see below.These screws must be loosened to allow fuel and air either to run. by gravity, or be pumped out, until the fuel is completely free of air, then tighten the ‘Screws. 4 With decompressor applied turn the engine and allow fuel to run clear from the injector pipes, when no air is evident fit the pipes to the injectors and the engine will start after a few revolutions. CAMSHAFT AND TIMING GEARS To gain access to the timing gears and chain it is necessary to remove hood, radiator and front axle. If the engine is already out of the tractor then itis much simpler. : CHAINWHEEL AND CENTRE MARKED gD THs, § / CHAINWHEELS MARKED THUS — Itis first necessary to remove the starter dog, to do this the engine must be restrained from turning, either by a block of wood in the crankcase, if the 26 sump has been removed, or by jamming the flywhee! with a tyre lever or similar tool. Use a socket spanner to unscrew the dog, it may require a sharp blow to move it. Next withdraw the “V" pulley from the crankshaft, remove ail bolts around the timing cover and pull it away from the cylinder block, it is located by two dowels. if it is only desired to replace the front crankshaft oil seal, this can now be driven out of the cover and a new one fitted, fit with seal facing the engine and always use a new gasket To remove camshaft it is best to first remove the rocker shaft and decompression shaft, this will ensure that -all valves are closed and any collision with @ piston is avoided. CHAINWHEELS THARKED THUS Lightly screw starter dog back into crankshaft and tum engine until all timing marks are seen, as shown in illustration above. Next remove timingchain jockey wheel and carrier. Draw oi! deflector and oil pump driving gear from crankshaft, oil pump can now be removed by taking out its four retaining screws. Take out the six set screws holding camshaft gear to its hub and this gear and the timing chain can be taken off together. The crankshaft chain ‘wheel can now be withdrawn from the crankshatt if required, be aware of the shims fitted behind the crankshaft chain Wheel. These are used to align the face of that gear with that of the other chain wheel gears. Before the camshaft can be withdrawn it will be necessary to take out the push rods, presumably you will already have done this wiien removing the rocker shaft. Itig better to remove the injectors so the engine is easier to turn, now remove the tappet cover on the side of the cylinder block, this will mean taking off the fuel pump and ail filter. Now the tappet blocks are exposed and will need to be held in their uppermost position to enable the camshaft to be withdrawn, this can best be achieved by using a rubber band round each pair of blocks to hold them in position Reassembly procedure is simply accomplished in reverse order to dismantiing, if a chain wheel or indeed a new timing chain is to be fitted it is recommended that the face of the timing gears be lined up with a straight edge, should there be any miss alignment there are shims fitted behind the crankshaft chain wheel for adjustment VALVE TIMING To check the valve timing, fit timing chain with marks set as shown on page 26. Next fit the timing chain tensioner wheel and its carrier, it will be necessary to hald the tensioner to the timing chain with a hammer shaft or similar, pending fitting the timing case cover and its adjuster, to be sure the timing marks are correct. The six cap screws on the ‘camshaft chain whee! will allow 1.1/2 degrees of adjustment to allow for wear ‘on the chain or chain wheels, if the timing cannot be set correctly with this adjustment it is likely that either the chain or wheels are worn excessively and must be replaced. To enable the timing cover to be refitted easily, loop a piece of string around the chain tensioner hub and wrap it around the injector pump drive shaft nuts. The string can be recovered through the inspection hole in the timing case cover when it is fitted, thus a foul position between the chain wheel tensioner and the cover will be avoided. With the cover in place it is time to adjust the chain tensioner by using the adjusting screw on the cover. Unscrew the adjuster untit sofne play in the chain can be felt when the injector pump drive is moved, screw the adjuster up by hand until all play is taken out, Now turn engine over slowly feeling for ariy tight spots and adjust accordingly. Finally tighten the adjuster lock nut up securely See diagram below for the accurate setting of the valve timing. Also see diagram for the most advantageous setting for the starter dog, this can be adjusted by shims between the dog and the fan pulley DIRECTION CF ROTATION * sri INLET OPENS 27Starter dog setting 45, CYLINDER LINERS, PISTONS. AND CONNECTING RODS Compared with many makes, the liner! piston relationship of the TEF 20 engine is quite complicated and must be handled very carefully. There is a special procedure to follow, using the correct Ferguson service tools for the job, unfortunately these tools are very expensive to buy, even if they are available. The purpose of this section is to try and offer advice on repair procedure assuming the correct tools are not available. The operation of replacing piston rings and cleaning piston ring grooves will be fairly simple if the engine is out of the tractor. Indeed it is almost essential that this be so, and available on a bench for this job to be undertaken. Otherwise the tools shown in illustrations 6,7 and 8 on page 29 must be used. Ill. 6 shows cylinder insert remover, note locating dowel, cylinder liner retainer Ill, 7 and piston ring clamp ill 8. The problem associated with the removal of pistons and rings with engine in place is because the big end will nat pass through the cylinder and the piston 28 will not pass by the crankshaft webs. It follows that without the correct tools the big end ‘cannot go upwards and the piston cannot go downwards. The only option left is to remove the crankshaft, this is why we recommend the engine be placed on a bench. With the cylinder head, timing case and flywheel removed it is time to work on the crankshaft, take off the rear oil seal housing, 8 set screws, oil pump drive gear and timing chain gear from front of crankshaft, front main bearing carrier 6 set screws and the centre bolt holding the centre main bearing carrier to cylinder block. Next remove the big end caps from the connecting rods, be sure you can replace each cap the same way round on the same connecting rod that it came from. Connecting rods are usually marked with the cylinder number being stamped on both rod and cap adjacent to one another. In addition the weight of individual rods is marked with a letter stamped on the rod shank just above cylinder number. These letters are NP.Q.S.T.U,, N denoted a rod of 2LBS. And 14 ONZ. Or 1219 Gram. Whilst U denotes 3LBS. 4 ONZ. Or 1474.2 Gram. Any replacement rods must be of the same weight. With the caps removed it will be an advantage to tap out the cap rétaining bolts from the connecting rods, at this stage retain the shell bearings in the order they will be needed if you are not planning to replace them. Now stand the engine on to its timing case and gently push each piston and connecting rod as far as it will go up the bore. Then with a hoist use two flywheel bolts to fasten a rope to them so the crankshaft can be lifted evenly out of the engine, it wil be necessary to move the hoist slowly, positioning the crankshaft to avoid the many obstructions it will contact. Pull each piston out of its bore and lay it to one side remembering that_HLLUSTRATION 6 Note dowel _HLustiaTIo_7_HALUSTRATION 11 ILLUSTRATION 9 Facing front bearing oli pump recess to correct. scored or worn face.It must be identified with the cylinder it came out of. It is now time to decide if the piston pins and/or pistons are worn so much they. will need replacing, also the cylinder liners.may have excessive wear, it is suggested that 0.015" should be the maximum wear allowed before replacement With the pistons and connecting rods laying on a bench in correct order take each one in turn and remove rings, clean all carbon away, particularly in the grooves where the piston rings have been. Original engines prior to engine number 28867 had a chrome top ring and parailel 2" and 3°. rings with a parallel oil ring. Later.engines had a chrome top ring with tapered 2° and 3 rings, these have a ‘T” stamped on them: which must be fitted to the. top, they can be used in place of the original ones. When fitting new rings the gap should be 0.010", originally Ferguson replacements were supplied in standard and minus 0.010" sizes. If you-are fitting oversize rings place them in the cylinder bore and push them half way up the bore using the piston top.to be sure they are centralised Check the gap and file it down if necessary, but be sure they will pass through the unworn part of the cylinder bore, usually that part at the bottom of the cylinder. If not the gap will have to be increased slightly until they will. pass through this part of the bore, or they wil probably be broken when the piston is fitted. Now turn to the cylinder liners, two types have been used, early types prior to engine number 28083 had a slotted bottom and after this number a straight bottom liner was used. The importance of being sure pistons are replaced in the liner they came from is due to selective fitting of piston and liner. Two sizes were used designated "F'and "G”, one of these letters being stamped on the 31 piston crown and one on the outer face Of the liner. These letters must not be mixed “F" piston must be fitted with an “F* liner and must not be mixed, although two sets of "F” units may be mixed with two sets of "G" units. Three sets of one and one set of the other should not be used,” The other difference between the early and later cylinder liners is that the retaining flange at the top of the liner is thinner on slotted liners than that on straight bottom liners. It therefore follows that the cylinder insert rings, see ILL. 6, on page 29 must match whichever type of liner is fitted. The top Ting is slotted which must be fitted near the injection point, it is located by a dowel as shown. Below this slotted ring is a plain ring, slightly ‘smaller, in diameter than the cylinder bore, this is to stop carbon build up on the top land of the piston and is the reason why the piston cannot be pushed out of the top of the cylinder to facilitate dismantling, The slotted ring which varies according to which liner is fitted this canbe checked as correct if, when in place, it stands proud of the cylinder block face by 0.0046", if you find it necessary to regrind the crankshaft, be ‘sure to obtain the bearing size desired before the regrind is undertaken, this is due to the supply of beatings being sporadic in this day and age. Clean the crankshaft thoroughly, blowing out all the oil passages and inspect the face of the front main bearing carrier where the oil pump fits, if it is scored, particularly between the inlet and outlet point, this should be “faced”, or low oil pressure may result. Before fitting the crankshaft insert the pistons and connecting rods into the cylinder from below, using a slim line piston ring compressor, gently pushing them to the top of the cylinder but making sure they do not go beyondalthough two sets of *F" units may be mixed with two sets of "G" units. Three sets of one and one set of the other should not be used. The other difference between the early and later cylinder liners is that: the retaining flange at the top of the linér is thinner on slotted liners than that on straight bottom liners: It therefore follows that the cylinder insert rings, see ILL. 6, on page 29 must_match whichever type of liner is fitted. The top ring is slotted which must be fitted near the injection point, it is located by a dowel as shown. Below this slotted ring is a plain ring, slightly smaller in diameter than the cylinder bore, this is to stop carbon build up on the top iand of the piston and is the reason why the piston cannot be pushed out of the top of the cylinder to facilitate dismantling. The slotted ring which varies according to which liner is fitted this can be chécked as correct if, when in place, it stands proud of the cylinder block face by 0.0045", If you find it necessary to re-grind the crankshaft, be sure to obtain the bearing size desired before the re-grind is undertaken, this is due to the supply of bearings being sporadic in this day and age. Clean the crankshaft thoroughly, blowing out all the oil passages and inspect the face of the front main bearing carrier where the oil pump fits, if it is scored, particularly between the inlet and outlet point, this should be “faced”, or low oil pressure may result. Before fitting the crankshaft insert the pistons and connecting rods into the cylinder from below, using a slim line piston ring compressor, gently pushing them to the top of the cylinder ‘but making sure they do not go beyond the top of the liner. Then fit crankshaft complete with main bearing carriers, with the special bolts holding them together tightened to 42'FT. LBS. Remember to fit the crankshaft end thrust halves see ILL. 9 page 30, when building up the rear main bearing carrier there are rubber dowels fitted between the mating surfaces to stop oil seeping into the clutch housing TIGHTENING TORQUE SETTINGS ALL IN FT. LBS. BIG END NUTS 70 FLYWHEEL SET SCREWS — 100 CENTRE BEARING Az CLUTCH FIXING SCREWS 28 MAIN BEARING SOCKET SCREWS 30 CYLINDER HEAD NUTS: 80 THE CLUTCH All clutches fitted to the Ferguson tractors are of 9" diameter, although there have been three types used, the main one being the “Borg and Beck” unit fitted to all TE20 tractors, the other two types being a “Rockford” clutch fitted to the TO 20 tractor and replaced a “Long” unit, also fitted to the TO 20 tractor. The TO tractors are not likely to be found in the UK interchangeabilty is, good except that the release shaft and fork 1 and 2 on clutch diagram ILL. 7, need to be changed as a pair if fitting Rockford parts in place of a Borg and Beck unit. Clutch covers, plates, spigot bearings and main drive shaft are all interchangeable, clutch springs will fit but they need to be of the correct type for each clutch TE 20 Prior to serial number 999, colour coded red, must show 180 LBS. When compressed to 1.1/2", TE 20 After $99, colour coded green, must show 105LBS. When compressed to1. 11/16" TO 20 “LONG clutch, must show 150 LBS. At 1.9/16" TO 20 “Rockford” clutch, must show 160 LBS. When compressed to 1.13/16"To remove the clutch it is necessary to split the tractor between the engine and clutch housing, there are no hidden snags to this but we stress again, do be careful and use good, safe, equipment to support both units when split. FERGUSON TE 20 CLUTCH 324,If the clutch is coated in oil then either the engine rear cil seal or the gearbox input seal are leaking. The rear crankshaft seal is exposed by removing the clutch and flywheel aiso the oil sump, it can then be removed by unscrewing a ring of bolts thus exposed To remove the gearbox input seal take off clutch release fork and shaft 1 and 2 ILL. 6 below, remove bolts 3, and the front casting can then be removed, it carries the seal with it and this can then bbe replaced With the clutch assembly on the bench, inspect the components carefully. If plate 1 ill. 7,is worn so the rivet heads ate either touching the face of the flywheel and pressure plate, or seem likely to in the near future, the complete plate or just the linings must be replaced. ‘Next inspect the pressure plate face, if itis ridged it should be replaced also the ‘flywheel face should be fiat and smooth, this may need refacing. Now inspect the release fingers 4 il. 7, be sure the return springs are not broken and that the face of the levers are, where they contact the clutch thrust bearing, smocth and not damaged. Check there is no wear on the release finger pivot points and with the clutch cover assembled make sure the finger to thrust bearing face is 3/16" below the face of the cover see ill. 7, this adjustment is carried out by turning nut 7 ili. 7 and must be accurate to within 0.010" so that the clutch will lift cleanly when in use. When the clutch dise 1 ill. 7, is being replaced be sure the long side of the hub is away from the flywheel. It should be lined up central with the use of a special tool, but this is not iikely to be available, perhaps you can find an old gearbox input shaft that can be used instead, Before finally coupling the transmission to the engine apply heat resistant grease to the spline to avoid the likelihood of the spline rusting and thus making the clutch difficult to diss engage. Remember to inspect the clutch thrust bearing, iit is scratchy and rough to turn it should be replaced lustration 6 33 Clutch pedal adjustment. Clutch pedai adjustment is correct when by loosening clamp bolt 8, and turning cross shaft A, see below, unti there is 3/16" of free play between the pedal and stop. _GLUTCH PEDAL ADJUSTENTTHE TRANSMISSION The TO 20 and TE 20 tractors share a similar transmission unit, similar but not identical. Completé gearboxes are interchangeable with minor modifications to btake cross shaft and pedals. Most intemal! parts are the same, but the main shaft and counter shaft are different the TO 20 models having needle roller bearings to the third gear whilst TE 20 models have plain bearings. ‘Since the TO models are mostly made in America and the TE models made in the UK this will not normally present a problem. The illustration below shows the roller bearing type. “<<, TLLUSTRATZON 8 a4 Also shown is the layout of the selectors and rails, this actual diagram shows the TO 20 type but the TE.20 type is the same except that the steering box is part of the gearbox top casting on that model. Almost all repairs to the transmission need the unit to be taken from the tractor. First split the tractor at the front of the transmission housing and then remove ancillary parts such as brake rods, foot plates ef. remove PTO lever assembly and withdraw the shaft from the rear of the axle housing. Finally remove bolts holding the gearbox to the tear axle housing and pull gearbox forward unti it clears output shaft spline and tift it clear. NEEDLE ROLLER BEARINGS FITTED TO T.0.MODELSTo strip down the gearbox, first remove the cover leaving the selectors and rails exposed see il8. This shows the TO version but the TE model is the same except that before removing the top cover and its inclusive steering box it will be necessary to remove the starter switch wiring and the connecting the switch to the reverse shifter rail 1 il. 8. Before lifting clear. Having removed the starter switch, take out the two bolts with spacers and remove the shifter rail stop 2 ilL8, next remove the selector retaining set screws, 3 ill, 8, there is one on each selector. Now withdraw the rails to the rear, but be sure to catch the detent balls and springs, 4 il 8 and the interlock ping and balls ,6,il, 8, selector 6, ill, 8 cannot be removed until shaft and gears are dismantled To remove gearbox shafts, proceed as follows using ill. 9 for guidance. First take off clutch shaft and tube, see ill. 6, then remove main shaft end cap 1. ill. 9 and carefully check and retain shims 2, ilL9 for reassembly, note TE tractors have a separate bearing cup 3, ill.9, TO tractors have this cup as an integral part of the end cap Now remove the counter shaft rear end cap,( not shown on illustration ), this incorporates the P.7.0. gear shift assembly, be sure to find and retain the shims controlling pre-load on the counter shaft bearings. Having removed the gear shaft rear end cap it is now necessary to draw off the front pilot bearing, 4.ilL9, with this out of the way the main shaft can now be drawn out of the case rearwards. Be certain to catch each gear and washer as it is released, 35putting each item carefully to one side $0 itcan be replaced in its correct place. On TO models look out for the needle rollers being released as the main shaft slides out of gear §, il. 9. To remove the counter shaft, take off front bearing carrier 7 and cone 6, ill. 9, again the cup is integral with cap on TO models but separate on TE models, Now draw the counter shaft rearwards and lift out the two front gears through the gearbox top, next lift the front of the counter shaft upwards and take remains of counter shaft assembly out through the top. Remember the needle roliers on TO models. To Temove reverse gear and shaft, take out setscrew and lock plate 9, ill 9, slide rearwards, catching gears eic. as they are released. Obviously it will have beén necessary to dismantle the gearbox to cure some defect, possibly a broken selector, damaged gear or failed bearing. If this is so and the defect is obvious then the cure is simple, replace the defective pari and rebuild the gearbox. Should the problem not be so easy to spot then more care in inspection and rebuilding will be required. if there is a noise problem or if a gear jumps out of mesh then attention must be be paid: to the gear teeth to ensure there is no wear or damage apparent, so when under load the sliding couplings 10,ill.9 are forcibly pushed into neutral by the torque they transmit. Make sure the detents on the selector rails are in good condition and the seats are not worn. Wear on the thrust washers 11,ll.9, allowing too much end float in the gear clusters is a typical cause of gears jumping out of mesh under load. It is suggested that when all components have been checked for wear or damage that the following procedure be adopted, Take the main shaft to the bench and hold it vertical in a soft jawed vice the 36. rear of the main shaft to be in the vice jaws. Then place all the gears etc. in correct order on the shaft when this is built up and bearing cone 4.ill9, is pressed home, the total end float should not exceed .012" or-end. clatter will cause noise and may well. result in sliding couplings 10,(ll. 9, being forcibly pushed out of mesh. This will be made worse if the selector fork is worn and the selector rail a loose fit. The only adjustment for this end float is with thrust washer 11,9, in extreme cases it may be possible to fit 2 thrust washers but most likely it will need one thrust washer to be reduced in size to allow the second to be fitted. DO NOT thin one down too much or it may, break up in service, rather thin both down until the required end float is achieved. To thin them down use a sheet of emery cloth ona flat surface, a piece of glass may do the job; rubbing the washers in a rotary way until the desired thickness is achieved. When the main shaft clearance is correct, repeat the procedure with the counter shaft and the Teverse idler shaft. After the foregoing procedure is completed and all parts are again dismantled and laid out on a bench in assembly order, itis time to reassemble the gearbox, This is done in reverse order to dismantling, but be sure to fit the reverse gear thrust washer with oil ways towards the gear and the engagement collar with the mark "F” to the front of the tractor. Next fit the counter shaft, on TE tractors gear 8, 9, with its bronze bush should have no more than .004” side play. On TO tractors the gear should be free to spin but have no play on the needle rollers, this also applies to gear 5 on the main shaft. To aid installation of the needie rollers they should be set in heavy grease and held in place with a rubber band whilst the gear is slid in place, donot forget to remove the rubber band when all is in place. Remember to fit the reverse idler gear selector fork before the counter shaft is in place and before the power take off selector assembly, now replace the main shaft remembering it goes through selector fork 6,il.8. When the two shafts are in position and the clutch shaft and tube are fitted, end cap 7.il. 9, is in place with new gaskets fitted, the bearing pre-loads must be set on both shafts The correct setting is when 10 inch pounds are needed to turn the shafts, however it is unlikely that @ torque wrench or pull gauge will normally be available giving accurate readings at this low loading. The writer would expect to set these pre-loads by feel with the use of shims 12\lL9, similar shims are fitted but not shown, behind the power take off selector assembly on the counter shaft. The setting to aim at is that the shaft is free to turn but will not spin.. It is permissible to have pre-loads slightly higher on gearbox casings made of aluminium as against those of cast iron When fitting the reverse gear sliding rail which operates the starter switch, be sure the oil seal through which it passes at the front of the gearbox, is in good condition. The starter switch is located by bolts which allow some. lateral movement forming an adjustment to ensure it is positioned so it can be positively engaged by the movement of the selector rail a7 REAR AXLE AND DIFFERENTIAL UNIT The TE 20 and TO 20 tractor differentials and rear axles are the same. To completely strip the rear axle it is necessary to split the tractor between gearbox and the rear axle. Remove wings, wheels, hydraulic top cover, hydraulic pump and power take Off shaft. Before removing the top cover take off the power take off engagement lever from the left hand side of the tractor and the circular inspection cover from the right hand side. The hydraulic hand control fork 1, ill 12, can now be seen, this can gently be opened until the lower ends of the forks are clear of the control valve and the hydraulic top cover can be removed. Take out the power take off shaft from the rear of the tractor and the hydraulic pump from the underside and the rear axle assembly can be drawn back from the tractor body. With the unit in a favourable working position take off each brake drum, then dismantle the brake shoes being sure you can replace the springs and adjusters in the correct places. Do not trust your memory, use pencil and paper to help replace these parts in their correct place. The brake shoe springs are often colour coded to assist identification, TO tractors are fitted with Bendix brakes and TE tractors fitted with Girling units. A characteristic of both types is that if the springs or adjusters are not correctly fitted the brakes may not work in reverse or alternately will work better in reverse than in a forward direction. When looking a Girling brake the adjuster and short spring is on the left and the longer spring on the right. Bendix brakes have the adjuster and red retum. spring on the left with anupper retum spring coded black on the right and a lower return spring coded blue aiso on the right Next take off the nuts at the rear of the brake plate, this will enable the axle shafts to be withdrawn and the brake back plates removed. Located between these two flanges are the shims controling axle shaft end float, 4 ill. 14 Now remove the left hand side trumpet housing from the centre casing, the differentia! unit and ting gear can now be taken out: Then remove the pinion carrier 2 il. 11, itis likely to be a tight fit All parts of the rear axle can naw be removed for cleaning and inspection, be sure to clean everything well, when bearings have been washed and are free to Spin revolve them in your hand under pressure if they are smooth, itis possible to re-use them but if noise or foughnass is felt discard them and fit new ones. To reassemble the axle first inspect the pinion bearings 384 ill. 10, these can be seen by removing lock nuts 5.10 and pressing the pinion out of the carrier. With good sound bearings in place reassemble pinion unit and set pre-load on bearings by tightening nuts 5 until pinion turns freely but will not spin, Do not, at this stage replace itn the casing. Now ‘inspect the differential case with the crown wheel, or ring gear riveted to it, i itis damaged it should be replaced but a replacement can be bolted. in place of the rivets, special high tensile bolts are usually available from the local dealer for this purpose. Split the differential case and remove differential gears, clean and inspect them, particularly the thrust washers 887 ill. 10, Assemble this unit.dry and the end float on the gears should not exceed .010" excess end float may be corrected by fitting new thrust washers. —TLLUSTRATLON 10 38With a good ring gear and differential unit we can now replace it in the axle casing and bolt on the left hand side trumpet housing. If the right hand side trumpet has been, removed, for any purpose, it must be bolted in place before the differential unit can be fitted and the left hand side trumpet replaced. ‘There is no mesh adjustment provided for the crown wheel and pinion, the casings are machined so the correct tooth contact is established by using the correct gaskets between the casing and the trumpet housing the . correct thickness for these gaskets is 010" and if you do not purchase the original ones then you must ensure any that you make must be this thickness. Iffor economic reasons you need to use the old differential side bearings 1,iI.10, there is a need to check the pre-load, this is the reason the pinion assembly was not fitted in the casing when its pre- load was checked, witn the trumpet housings and differential unit in place you can now reach through the pinion ‘opening the feel the crown wheel for pre-load, It must be set to tum but not spin, if it spins, or indeed if it has side play then there are only two adjustment you can carry out. First a thinner gasket ‘on the left hand side trumpet housing, never alter the gasket or any adjustment on the right hand side trumpet or the mesh between the pinion and crown wheel teeth will be changed. The other adjustment you can do to pre-load the bearings is to remove the left hand side bearing opposite to 1, ill. 10, and fit shims behind it until the correct pre-load is established,Now it is time to turn your attention to the half shafts, the main problem will be to reptace the shaft oil seal, shown on page 41 is a modification kit enabling a seal to be fitted without tackling the difficult job of renewing the original seal. To replace the original sea! proceed as foliows, drill a quarter inch hole in fine with the shaft through axle collar 4,11, and with a sharp chisel spiit the collar so it can be removed from the shaft. Next the bearing must be removed from the shaft, a special extractor was originally supplied for this purpose and SCEILTLLEE REL eer ees _ELLUSTRATION 12 eso o ec sbononiEN RAE 40 without it you may find it almost impossible to remove the bearing, if you do remove it the seal is behind the bearing and a new one should be fitted with the lip facing the differential A new collar must of course be used and heated to 200 degrees F. then pressed on to the axle shaft and driven fully home. To ensure axle shaft end float is correct re-assemble the outer end with brake back plate in piace, with both shaft assemblies fitted be sure one will tum without turning the other in the same direction, if this occurs and it is stiff to turn fit another shim to left hand side. EB <‘THE LATEST HALF SHAFT SEAL KIT THIS NEW HALF SHAFT SEAL KIT CAN BE FITTED WITHOUT REMOVING THE COLLAR AND BEARING Gag — Seal W/A yyy cottar Wew SBAL ASSENBLY INSTRUCTIONS, . 1 Withdraw axle shaft assembly from axle housing 2. Wash bearing, oit and check for smooth running 3 Fit new seal assembly over splines, take care not to damage lip of seal on any sharpe edges 4 Pack bearing and seal hausing with grease 5 Press oF lightly drive seal assembly into bearing hub Until fully home 6 Replace axle shaft assembly using new gaskets and Replace shims as previously fitted WARNING USE GOOD JACKS AND AXLE STANDS DO NOT WORK UNDER MACHINE THINK BODIES BREAK EASIER THAN TRACTORS 41HYDRAULICS, Although @ mystery to many people, the Ferguson hydraulic system is basically very simple, if it is not functioning correctly DO NOT immediately dismantle the system but first carry out a few simple checks as listed below. IMPLEMENT DOES NOT LiFT Check that the power take off engagement lever is engaged, it is situated on the left hand side of the tvansmisgion housing, engaged is when the lever is in the rearward position If this is in its correct position remove the inspection cover on the opposite side of the housing, check that the control forks 4,II12 are coupled to the control valve 1, ill. 13, and also that the forks are operating when the hand lever is moved. if not make sure the control valve is free to move, also that the fit’ lower carn( see ill. 14 and general view of hydraulic system), is correctly positioned to operate the contro! forks. if the control lever assembly has been removed It is easy to replace it so the car cannot contact the forks. Next inspect the inside of the housing and with the hydraulic pump running there should be no spray or turbulence in the oif, which might indicate leakage in the system. Pay particular attention to the verticat tube feeding the ram cylinder, if no leaks are found it will be necessary to check the hydraulic pressure. To do this you will need a pressure gauge reading up to 2,500 Ibs. There are two places to plug in the gauge, one is shown at 3, il 14, on the top cover. If your tractor does not have this tapping then the second point is is on the underside of the tractor and is sealed with a brass plug, itis situated at the front right hand side corner of the hydraulic pump mounting plate. 42 When checking pressure it is important to establish what pressure your tractor should have, the model TO 20 operates at 2,200 ibs. The TE 20 tractors uses this pressure on units after serial number 83271 but 83270 and previous operate at 1,800 Ibs. DO'NOT use the wrong selief vaive or setting, otherwise damage may occur, the relief valve is ‘shown on iil.13, item 2. The two types of relief valve are shown in il. 14. Before checking the pressure it will be necessary to chain down the lift arms or fit a heavy implement to the tractor. If the pressure reading is correct the most likely reason for not lifting an implement will be a mechanical defect fon the top cover intemal linkage. To inspect this the two contro! forks 4 il.12 must be spread to disconnect them from the control valve 1,ill 13. When unbolting the top cover to lft off the assembly do not remove the four bolts shown as 2.il.14, which -hold the lift cylinder to the top cover, it is only necessary to remove the bolts around the outer edge. lf the pressure check shows low pressure in the hydraulic system do not immediately dismantle the pump assembly, the problem could be a damaged seal between the lift cylinder and top cover assembly. A cracked cylinder or broken piston may also cause this problem, but usually a volume of oil can be seen leaking from the offending part. It is also worth checking the relief valve 2,ill13, is in good working order and is not stuck or its seat defective. Another cause for an implement not lifting is that although reasonable pressure is recorded general wear and tear and leakage from the lift cylinder, bad valve seats, or badly wom pistons does not provide enough oil flow to fil the lift cylinder and lift an implement quickly. in other words pressure withouta good flow will not lift. | have no specific flow figures to quote but | would expect to see a minimum of 2 gallons per minute oil flow at working pressure and with engine set at half throttle. With a two furrow plough mounted on the lift arms this should lift in.6 seconds when the hand lever is moved to lift position. ELLUSTRATION 1 TOP COVER Remove as already described, it is a simple unit to strip and repair, be sure all gaskets and "O" rings are in good order, remove piston and rings from the lift, cylinder. The gap settings on the rings should be .010", piston clearance in the cylinder should be 008". Hydraulic relief valves, top TE20 type before 0.83271 below after 83271 and 7020 .Too much clearance in the ring gap or cylinder wear will cause the Iift speed ta decrease and the implement to descend quicidy wiven the engine is stopped. If the implement carried on the lift arms will stay lifted for tem minutes. with engine stopped, you should assume the lit assentbiy wil work IMPLEMENT WILL NOT DROP Remove inspection plate on right hand side of transmission housing, opposite side fo the power take off lever and ensure the hand contrel forks 1 ill. (2, are connected to the control valve 4.ill-13. Be sure the controi valve moves when the hand control forks are moved by the quadrant control lever. Another cause on old tractors is that the piston is jammed in the fift cylinder by rust ete. or maybe the cross shaft 3.ill.12 is stuck either by rust or bolts 4,iil. 12, are too tight and the cross shaft is locked. IMPLEMENT DEPTH IS ERRATIC The first cause to consider is one often overivoked by the user, itis hard ground with soft patches. Another more mechanical reason is the control spring 4,14 not being correctly adjusted or jammed by cust or dirt, aiso rod 4,il1.14, may be stuck in its housing ‘Yo set the control spring, attach an implement to the finkage and fift it fully, if the spring can be turned by hand without end play the adjustment is alrignt . To adjust the spring lower impiement, disconnect clevis pin 5,14 and turn yoke in direction required to accomplish the correct spring setting, You must also be aware that operating an implement with top link incorrectly adjusted and / or worn soil engaging tips will also cause erratic depth control ‘The correct top link setting can easily be checked by looking at the outfit passing actoss your line of vision about 20 yards away, the implement frame should be ievel with the ground IMPLEMENT WILL NOT PENETRATE Most iikely cause, is worn soil engaging points, but check that the hand lever is correctly adjusted. To do this, start the engine and fully lift implement and carefully move the hand lever down its quadrant uniit the impiement slowly descends, the hand lever should be two and a helf inches from the top of the quadrant when this happens. To adjust the lever ioosen the four screws holding the quadrant assembly io the tor cover 6.14 and move the quadrant assembly without moving the hand lever until the required measurement is obtained THE HYDRAULIC PUMP To remove the pump it is necessary to drain the transmission oil, then take off the right hand side inspection cover and on the lett hand side the power take off lever then withdraw the power take off shaft from the rear of the tractor. Next spread the hand control forks 1 il 12 until they clear the contrat valve 4.13. Remove screws holding pump base plate to bottom of the tractor and withdraw pump downwards, To dismantie pump take off the valve chests, see ill.73, one only is shown but there are two also only one piston unitis shown 3,li.13, again there are two of those, Normal common sense is needed to check the pump, ve sure the pistons ate not scoured and vaives and springs are free and not broken. Replace all “O” rings and gaskets, check relief valve and spring also control valve and ensure it moves freely. Rebuild pump and refit 40 the tractor.BRAKES ‘The Ferguson braking system is a very simple, out different types have been used at different times and it is necessary to identify whieh type you rave The TO20 tractors have 11" Bendix biases and the TE26 tractors have 14” Girling brakes, the Girling type hadi two kinds of operating cams fitted. Theve is the kidney type ill 12 and the floating cam type see ill. 12a both are similar in layout and the floating cam type is very similar to the Bendix type brake. The kidney cam type was fitted up to tractor serial number 200,000, the floating cam type came in at 200,001 and both types were fitted until serial number 204,865 when the kidney type was discontinued General overhaul is simple, just be certain no oil is on the iinings, the bushes and shafts are sound and ail dust and grit is excluded. if you strip down the brakes be certain you replace al the springs in exactly the fight piace, especially on floating cam and Bendix type or you may find the seff energising characteristics of these brakes only work in reverse, or not at all, Adjustment is sirnple but the correct procedure is important or your brakes may deveiop into wearing one shoe only with the lesser braking effect this would give TO ADJUST Jack up the rear of the tractor and disconnect brake rod clevis pins, check brake pedals return freely to the off position and brake rod joints are free moving. Next free off centralising nut on back plate 1 ill. 12, situated just below the adjuster, turn square adjuster 2,112, until brake shoes contact solidly with brake drum and wheel cannot be jured, note Bendix brakes are adjusted iot by a square adjuster but by turning 4s the internal gear adjuster through a siot in the back plate with a screw driver. Next tighten centralising nut and slacken off the square nut until the wheel is just free to tum without brake * bind “With foot pedals up to their stop adjust fength of brake rods until clevis pin can slide home. Remember to fit new cotter pin to the clevis pin, drive the tractor slowly, apply the brake sharply and correct any veering sideways by releasing the fending brake adjuster one or two icks *STEERING AND FRONT AXLE The Ferguson tractor steering is a simple pinica and sector type, all modeis share common steering parts but with one main difference. The TO models have the steering box mourted on the gearbox cover but the TE models have the steering box casting as part of the gearhox cover. Prist to removal of the steering box assembly from the tracior it is necessary to disconnect various controls and parts, these are straight forward mechanics procedures and offer no problems. When all is clear the steering box can be taken off the gearbox top ( TO tractoss), or the gearbox top with the steering box as part of it removed complete ( TE tractors ). In the latter case be careful not {0 misplace the gear selector springs and dowels, if you only need'to adjust the steering box it is not necessary to remove the box fram the iractor. _ELLUSTRAIION ADJUSTMENTS: ‘There are two main adjustments on the Ferguson steering box, one controls end float in the steering column which will show as side play in the steering wheel, the other is the engagement of the pinion gear with the two sector gears. ihis is controlled by set screws with lock nuts, When carrying out adjustments aways start with the steering column, remove the steering wheel, this may need a witeel puller but try ficst hitting it on the underside with a wooden maiiet. When the wheel is removed it will reveal two lock nuts 7 ill, 13, unlock them and tighten the lower one until slight pre load is applies to the column bearings, then jock them together again and fasten with the tab washer. Having made sure the column is OK turn to the sector adjusters 2 il. 13, with the steering in the straight ahead position loosen the lock nuts on the sector adjusters and turn one adjusterFRONT AXLE All repairs to'the front axle are within the normal expertise of the home mechanic, having said that however, some basic information is required and this is reproduced below. ‘Toe in on the front wheels is 1/8" of an inch or 3,75mm. Adjust by turning drag links after loosening the clamp bolts. ILLUSTRATION JE Front wheel hubs ‘should have slight pre-load set on the bearings, adjust with castle nut in the hub cap. Front hub jubrication is by gear oil, position: filler plug at 45 degrees and pour in oil until it overflows. {f through wear on the seal face it proves impossible to retain gear oil in hub, then use heavy grease. When sliding axles to adjust track always keep axle clamp bolts tight and well apart, never fit in adjacent holes.ELECTRICAL SYSTEM The Ferguson electrical system is very simpie and refreshingly easy to repair when compared to the complex systems to be found on modern tractors. Early models had a 6 volt system but in 1961 a 12 volt type came into use, a 75 amp/nour battery was used. TO tractors had DELCO REMY equipment fitted and TE tractors used LUCAS equipment. The two wiring diagrams are shown in illustrations 15 and 16. ‘The two tractors having equipment of a different manufacturing base means most of the parts are not interchangeable, The cut / out regulator units are, we feel, beyond the capabilities of the average restorer to deal with and we recommend should be taken to an auto electrical repair shop for specialist treatment, ‘The dynamo is easier to check out, 80 if you have a tractor with a no charge situation it is worth using the following procedure, Remove the dynamo from the tractor and carry out instructions as follows, see illustration 17 and 18. Remove the two long screws 1 ill. 17, the end plate, V pulley and armature will now pull away from the dynamo body. There is no doubt thet the inside of the unit will be dirty, so clean off with petrol and a brush, rinse off well and allow to dry, make sure the brushes are free to move in their holders 1 Il. 18. The springs 2 ill. 18 should be in good condition and brush length not less than 1/2", if the commutator is black and scored, either lightly reface it in a lathe of hold the armature in a vice and polish with very fine emery cloth. Cut the cloth into strips the width of the commutator and whilst holding each end of the cloth in your hands, work over the commutator segments, keep turing the DISTRIBUTOR IF BAT. L “ALSUEATE GENERATORarmature to avoid making it oval. The next operation is to score out the dirt between each copper segment of the “armature, so each segment is insulated from the other and is not shorted out by old brush dust or copper grindings which may bridge the gap between segments, See ill. 19, grind an old hacksaw blade to @ sharp point for this purpose. Most dynamo and starter test BATTERY ILLUSTRATION 16 TE.t; ILLUSTRATION 17 350 procedures call for expensive test equipment, but one test that is quite simple is to use-a test lamp. Connect ‘one wire of the test lamp to a battery terminal and connect the other battery terminal to the armature shaft, now if you touch each copper segment in turn with the other test lamp wire you will see if any segment causes the lamp to light. If so then that segment is not insulated and the armature is suspect, GENERATOR e- wiring 6: iagramdirty segnents 1 clean segments It will be obvious if the bearings on the dynamo are worn, if the wear is very bad and the armature shows signs of catching on the field coils inside the dynamo, it is probably best to try and obtain an exchange dynamo, or have it repaired by a specialist. ff wear is slight you can renew them “yourself, but before doing so it is best to make sure the unit is charging, or you may waste time and money. Before starting the reassembly of the unit be sure it is all clean and dry, also took at illustration 18 and note how the brushes are held out from the armature by the brush springs so’the armature can be fed into place. When the armature is refitted to the dynamo, do not forget to release the springs so the brushes can connect with the commutator segments when you have finished. Most dynamos are clockwise rotation, certainly the Ferguson ones are, so | have modified a bolt head to fit a socket so | can hold the bolt shank in an electric drill and with the socket on the dynamo pulley retaining nut can motor the dynamo when itis held in a vice. A test lamp connected to the two output wires and earthed to the dynamo body should light if all is well. THE SELF STARTER The starter motor can receive the same treatment as the dynamo, but in addition it is best to check the mechanical engagement mechanism, springs etc. are not damaged. To remove the engagement mechanism from the armature take off the locating ring 1 ill, 20, remove retainer 2 ill, 20 and slide pinion assembly off the shaft, next remove nut 3 ill. 20, this will be locked by a pin passing through it, or on later models may be staked into the shaft key way, if you have a starter that jams it is most likely due to wear on the flywheel gear, inspect this through the starter orifice whilst the engine is tured slowly by hand, It is also worth checking the starter assembly penetration, see ill 20A, to engage the starter deeper into the flywheel gear machine metal from the face of the starter assembly, if engagement is too deep fit shims to move it outwards. Tractors with engine _ serial number67027 and onwards the flywheel gear has been maved towards the starter by 1/16" , allow for this when taking measurements. ALLUSTRATION 20