Computer Will Not Start

Computer will not start, post, fans
wont turn on, no beep.

aman213May 7, 2014, 6:51 AM
BEST ANSWER
plaintuts May 7, 2014, 9:20 AM
did you happen to be blowing air to your cpu socket when you removed the heatsink?
if so, remove your cpu the use compressed air to blow directly on the pin sockets.
reattach and try to start it up again.
Computer won't turn on, computer

fans turn on for a second then turn off
BEST ANSWER
UbralesFeb 10, 2017, 1:21 AM
Check Beep Codes - Each computer manufacturer has a set of beep codes that are used
to trouble-shoot. Here is an example - http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/38515/beep-
codes
Yours may be different depending on the manufacturer.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems
Go through this step-by-step guide.

Computer fans will spin for a second
and turn off, how do I fix this?
BEST ANSWER
i7Baby Aug 1, 2014, 10:29 PM
So what post code are you getting from your internal speaker(point 17)?
per http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-on_self-test
When you went thru the checklist, what voltage readings did you get on your power
supply?
"Next best thing is to get (or borrow) a digital multimeter and check the PSU.
Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue
wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the
-12 volts which is +/- 10%."
CPU fan starts spinning then just

stops
BEST ANSWER
WumbologistDec 28, 2013, 12:57 PM
Well I found the problem. The USB ports from the case would short out my whole
computer everytime I plug it in the mb.
How to Fix a No-Input Signal to a Computer

1. Turn off your computer.
2. Unplug the cable running from your monitor to your PC and plug it back in, making sure the connection is
firm. The most common cause of this error is a loose cable.
3. Reattach the cable running from your monitor to your PC. If the monitor is still not displaying a
signal after firmly reattaching the cable, the problem could lie with the cable, especially if the cable
has visible damage.
4. Replace your monitor with another monitor if possible. If the "No Input Signal" error still appears,
the problem does not rest with the cables or the monitor, but with your PC.
5. Open your PC case and locate your video card. Remove the card and then replace it firmly in its slot
or, if possible, insert the video card into another slot on your motherboard. A video card that is not
making a firm connection will not display images to the monitor. Close your PC case and test the
monitor again.
6. Replace your video card completely. Your video card may suffer from internal damage that is not
allowing it to output a signal.
Computer powers on, but does not boot

Well, the first thing that might be causing this is your memory card (RAM). Try to
remove it and place it in another memory slot on the motherboard.
To be sure if your motherboard is still in good working condition, remove the memory
card and power on the PC.You should hear continuous beep sounds. If you hear this
then your motherboard is fine.
If placing the memory card in another slot does not work then the problem lies with the
memory card itself. You will need to replace it.
It could also be that some faulting PCI cards are causing this error. Try to remove your
PCI cards. Normally a faulting PCI modem causes this type of error. Remove it and then
power on the pc.
The processor cannot be faulty but still if you want to check it, remove the CPU Cooler
fan. Then turn on the PC.
Place your finger on the processor for 2 seconds. You should find the processor heating
up. Then turn it off immediately. If this works then your processor is good.
Remember not to leave it ON for more than 5 secs.

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no
video output" troubleshooting checklist
1.Did you carefully read the motherboard owners manual?
2. Did you plug in the 4/8-pin CPU power connector located near the CPU
socket? If the motherboard has 8 pins and your PSU only has 4 pins, you can use the
4-pin connector. The 4-pin connector USUALLY goes on the 4 pins located closest to the
CPU. If the motherboard has an 8-pin connector with a cover over 4 pins, you can
remove the cover and use an 8-pin plug if your power supply has one. This power
connector provides power to the CPU. Your system has no chance of posting without this connector
plugged in! Check your motherboard owners manual for more information about
the CPU power connector. The CPU power connector is usually referred to as the
"12v ATX" connector in the owners manual. This is easily the most common new-builder
mistake.
3.Did you install the standoffs under the motherboard? Did you place them so
they all align with the screw holes in the motherboard, with no extra standoffs touching
the board in the wrong place? A standoff installed in the wrong place can cause a
short and prevent the system from booting.
4.Did you verify that the video card is fully seated? (may require more force than
a new builder expects.)
5.Did you attach ALL the required power connector(s) to the video card? (some
need two, some need none, many need one.) It is best to use cables connected directly
to the PSU. Only use adapters if absolutely necessary.
6.Have you tried booting with just one stick of RAM installed? (Try each stick of
RAM individually in each RAM slot.) If you can get the system to boot with a single stick
of RAM, you should enable an XMP profile or manually set the RAM speed, timings, and
voltage to the manufacturers specs in the BIOS before attempting to boot with all sticks
of RAM installed. If your motherboard supports XMP profiles that is the best way to get
your RAM running at its rated specs.Nearly all motherboards default to the standard
RAM voltage (1.8v for DDR2 & 1.5v for DDR3). If your RAM is rated to run at a voltage
higher than the standard voltage, the motherboard will underclock the RAM for
compatibility reasons. If you want the system to be stable and to run the RAM at its
rated specs, you should either enable an XMP profile or manually set the values in the
BIOS. Many boards don't supply the RAM with enough voltage when using "auto"
settings which causes stability issues.
7.Did you verify that all memory modules are fully inserted? (may require more
force than a new builder expects.) It's a good idea to install the RAM on the
motherboard before it's in the case.
8.Did you verify in the owners manual that you're using the correct RAM
slots? Many Intel motherboards require RAM to be installed in the slots starting with
the one further away from the CPU.
9.Did you remove the plastic guard over the CPU socket? (this actually comes up
occasionally.)
10.Did you install the CPU correctly? There will be an arrow on the CPU that needs
to line up with an arrow on the motherboard CPU socket. There may also be a notch
that will only line up in one direction. Be sure to pay special attention to that section of
the manual!
11.Are there any bent pins on the motherboard/CPU? This especially applies if you
tried to install the CPU with the plastic cover on or with the CPU facing the wrong
direction.
12. If using an after market CPU cooler, did you get any thermal paste on the
motherboard, CPU socket, or CPU pins? Did you use the smallest amount you
could? Here's a few links that may help:
Benchmark Reviews
Arctic Sliver
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffK7L0Qj13Q&feature=related
13.Is the CPU fan plugged in? Some motherboards will not boot without detecting
that the CPU fan is plugged in to prevent burning up the CPU.
14. If using a stock cooler, was the thermal material on the base of the cooler free
of foreign material, and did you remove any protective covering? If the stock
cooler has push-pins, did you ensure that all four pins snapped securely into
place? (The easiest way to install the push-pins is outside the case sitting on a
non-conductive surface like the motherboard box. Read the instructions! The push-
pins have to be turned the OPPOSITE direction as the arrows for installation.)
Beginners Guide: How To Install/Remove Intel Socket LGA1155 CPU and Heatsink
15. Are any loose screws laying on the motherboard, or jammed against it? Are
there any wires run directly under the motherboard? You should not run wires
under the motherboard since the soldered wires on the underside of the motherboard
can cut into the insulation on the wires and cause a short. Some cases have space to
run wires on the back side of the motherboard tray.
16.Did you ensure you discharged all static electricity before touching any of
your components? Computer components are very sensitive to static electricity. It
takes much less voltage than you can see or feel to damage components. You should
implement some best practices to reduce the probability of damaging components.
These practices should include either wearing an anti-static wrist strap or always
touching a metal part of the case with the power supply installed and plugged in, but
NOT turned on. You should avoid building or working on a computer on carpet. Working
on a smooth surface is the best if at all possible. You should also keep fluffy the cat,
children, and fido away from computer components.
17.Did you install the system speaker (if provided) so you can check beep-codes in
the manual? A system speaker is NOT the same as normal speakers that plug into the
back of the motherboard. A system speaker plugs into a header on the motherboard
that's usually located near the front panel connectors. The system speaker is a critical
component when trying to troubleshoot system problems. You are flying blind without a
system speaker. If your case or motherboard didn't come with a system speaker
you can buy one for cheap here: http://www.cwc-group.com/casp.html
18.Did you read the instructions in the manual on how to properly connect the
front panel plugs? (Power switch, power led, reset switch, HD activity led) Polarity
does not matter with the power and reset switches. If power or drive activity LED's
do not come on, reverse the connections. For troubleshooting purposes, disconnect
the reset switch. If it's shorted, the machine either will not POST at all, or it will
endlessly reboot.
19.Did you turn on the power supply switch located on the back of the PSU? The
switch should be depressed on the side with a I, the O means off. Is the power plug on
a switch? If it is, is the switch turned on? Is there a GFI circuit on the plug-in? If there
is, make sure it isn't tripped. You should also make sure the power cord isn't causing
the problem. Try swapping it for a known good cord if you have one available.
20.Is your CPU supported by the BIOS revision installed on your

motherboard? Most motherboards will post a CPU compatibility list on their website.
21.Have you tried resetting the CMOS? The motherboard manual will have
instructions for your particular board.
http://www.spotht.com/2010/02/reset-bios-clear-cmos.html
22. If you have integrated video and a video card, try the integrated video
port. Resetting the bios, can make it default back to the onboard video. If you are
trying to use HDMI outputs, try using DVI or VGA instead. Sometimes the HDMI ports
won't work until the correct drivers are installed.
23. Make certain all cables and components including RAM and expansion cards
are tight within their sockets.
I also wanted to add some suggestions that jsc often posts. This is a direct quote from
him:
"Pull everything except the CPU and HSF. Boot. You should hear a series of long single
beeps indicating memory problems. Silence here indicates, in probable order, a bad
PSU, motherboard, or CPU - or a bad installation where something is shorting and
shutting down the PSU.
To eliminate the possiblility of a bad installation where something is shorting

and shutting down the PSU, you will need to pull the motherboard out of the
case and reassemble the components on an insulated surface. This is called
"breadboarding" - from the 1920's homebrew radio days. I always breadboard a new
or recycled build. It lets me test components before I go through the trouble of
installing them in a case.
If you get the long beeps, add a stick of RAM. Boot. The beep pattern should change to
one long and two or three short beeps. Silence indicates that the RAM is shorting out
the PSU (very rare). Long single beeps indicates that the BIOS does not recognize the
presence of the RAM.
If you get the one long and two or three short beeps, test the rest of the RAM. If good,
install the video card and any needed power cables and plug in the monitor. If the video
card is good, the system should successfully POST (one short beep, usually) and you
will see the boot screen and messages.
Note - an inadequate PSU will cause a failure here or any step later.
Note - you do not need drives or a keyboard to successfully POST (generally a single
short beep).
If you successfully POST, start plugging in the rest of the components, one at a time."
If you suspect the PSU is causing your problems, below are some suggestions
by jsc for troubleshooting the PSU. Proceed with caution. I will not be held
responsible if you get shocked or fry components.
"The best way to check the PSU is to swap it with a known good PSU of similar
capacity. Brand new, out of the box, untested does not count as a known good PSU.
PSU's, like all components, can be DOA.
Next best thing is to get (or borrow) a digital multimeter and check the PSU.
Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue
wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the
-12 volts which is +/- 10%.
The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the
PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.
You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or
jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata
This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it
can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the
computer to put a load on the PSU. You can carefully probe the pins from the back of
the main power connector."
Monitor Gets No Signal / Computer Won't Boot

The first thing to rule out is overheating (CPU, motherboard, hard drive or power
supply)
then I would check for bad memory (if you have two modules - swap them out for
testing)
then I would test with another power supply
only after I have checked ALL of these would I think it was the Motherboard.
Good Luck
HELPFUL
+168
sss Feb 18, 2009 at 05:41 PM
I believe it is because the video card changed resolution. I had two displays, working
removed one still working. Moved the computer and now no display works. I tried
repair and getting into safe mode on Xp with no luck it goes straight to windows Xp and
obtain a black screen instead of my desktop. The lcd monitor says no digital signal and
turns off. I played with bios, tried clearing the cmos no luck. Is it time to move on? or
look for and old school monitor? Also read online about not using a usb keyboard, but
don't see how that helps, but will try.
HELPFUL
+119
Report
Highway72 Apr 6, 2009 at 08:22 AM
Nope the power on button trick didnt change anything :( cant even get the speaker to
report a error beep, and this is 3rd PC i've seen this week with same issue
My PC has suddenly stopped starting up. On checking with case open, the CPU fan starts
running when the power is turned on, but it stops after about 2-3 seconds, restarts again after
2dow about 2-3 seconds and the loop is repeated. There is no beep and nothing appears on the
n screen. On searching the internet, I found there could be several reasons for this. I tried
vote favorite removing hard-disk, CD drive, tightening connections etc but of no avial. I also tried using a
new power supply but the response is the same.
Where could be the problem and how can it be solved? Thanks in advance.
Update: The problem could not be corrected and I had to replace both the cpu and the
motherboard.
It would help to know the hardware specifications. For example asus boards will do this as they check memory timing
on init, but a continual loop is likely failed ram settings. What is the OS you were intending to boot to? is this UEFI?
Have you changed anything recent? – Psycogeek Jun 1 '14 at 1:46
It is a gigabyte motherboard with intel i3-540 processor and 4gb RAM. It is dual boot with Windows7 and Linux. It is
not UEFI. I did not make any major changes recently. I am pretty sure it is not a software/OS but a hardware
problem. – rnso Jun 1 '14 at 1:54
yes in 2-3 seconds it likely is, too bad your not getting any beeps :-( , and you cannot get into the bios to adjust
anything in that time, sooo I would want to reset the bios (the cmos jumper thing) to set things back to defaults there at
the hardware, which are often safer. That also includes the issue of ACHI/IDE probably being reset too, so the purpose
would be to get stable enough to get into the bios first. Trim down to the least needed to get to the bios, this means to
pull your extra USB junk, and even extra drives temporarily, 1 stick of ram, and to check your Cpu heat sink
mounting – Psycogeek Jun 1 '14 at 1:58
It does not work even with main hard disk removed. How do I check CPU heat sink mounting? – rnso Jun 1 '14 at 2:05
If the cpu mounting is the plastic pins, you see if any are popped out. If it is screw mounted, you see if it is generally
still mounted. And when all else fails as one of the much later things I might be checking for , you dis mount it and
check the thermal goop. With intel later cpus, the cooling would have to be very very bad, or wrongly done to cause a
system halt, and it is unlikely the MB would do it's own restarting. (they throttle) – Psycogeek Jun 1 '14 at 2:15
3 Answers
Having checked a different known working power supply and without any other information, (do
you have any LEDs on the board that blink when starting up?), I would suspect a failed
motherboard component. To fully test the board remove everything except the CPU, one stick of
RAM and the power connectors. If it starts like that try again with the others stick(s) of ram one at
a time then all together. If it fails to start with any one stick then it's bad RAM. If you come up
with anymore information we can work from there.
It is normal for the thermal paste to be very dry after a couple of years but as long as the heatsink was properly seated
should not have affected the cooling capacity that much. I have seen several Intel systems not completely with no
heatsink attached with them just being very slow and eventually shutting down. That said i would clean it up and apply
a small amount of new paste and try again. – Mud Jun 1 '14 at 4:30
I applied thermal paste and refitted the fan but the problem persists. I also tried removing the cmos battery to reset the
BIOS but that also did not help. The 2 second on-off cycle of fan and power light continues without any display or
booting. – rnso Jun 2 '14 at 13:47
If you've gone through the rest of the steps above without luck then i would say it's time to replace the motherboard,
most have a several year warranty so check with its manufacturer for their RMA process. – MudJun 2 '14 at 15:48
1 I took it to hardware shop where they say that it is the processor which is at fault and needs to be replaced
Fan on motherboard spins for a few

seconds then stops, no boot
So this desktop died on us. We put in a new PSU in it but still no booting. Bought a
PSU tester and everything passes on the PSU. Was convinced it was the mobo so we
bought a new one. Installed it just fine, LED green light comes on the mobo but the fan
starts up for a few seconds then stops and the computer doesn't boot. Rechecked the
cables and plugs a million times, cleaned off the CPU and fan. Still does the same
thing. Tried with a different PSU but no luck. I'm stumped. Help please?
Reply 38
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Best Answer
Big Green Man Jan 15, 2016 at 8:38 AM

Make sure you didn't bend any CPU pins when you installed it. Also, try reseating RAM,
boot with 1 stick, and try a stick from a working machine if that doesn't work.
View this "Best Answer" in the replies below »
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38 Replies
Ghost Chili
starg33ker Jan 15, 2016 at 8:36 AM

Is the MOBO properly raised? Could the new MOBO be bad as well? What about RAM?
USB devices plugged in? Is the CPU overheating? Have you checked the thermal
paste?
Was this post helpful?
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Spice
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Mace
Best Answer

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Spice
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Mace

starg33ker wrote:
paste?
The first stuff is good, but overheating doesn't make sense in this case. OP should get at least a couple
minutes of boot time before it shuts down for overheating.
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Spice
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Anaheim
OP
longvue2 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:40 AM

Dunno is raised. Didn't do anything to it if that's what you mean. We replaced the
mobo with an exact new one. Since it's new I'll consider it's bad as one of the last resort
for a refund. The old mobo with a new PSU didn't turn on at all. With this new Mobo it
at least has a green LED light on it and turns on for a short second before the fan
turning off. I just checked the CPU and fan, the thermal paste is still there. I might need
to use new paste?
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Spice
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Cayenne
Patch_413 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:42 AM

First: All your risers are installed properly right?
Second: remove ram, try again by adding 1 stick at a time
Third: Unhook everything but the cpu fan and main power, does it still only do a minimal
boot
Fourth: If the motherboard is brand new, RMA it. It could be faulty and if they're willing
to replace it why not.
Let us know how those turn out for you

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Spice
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Anaheim
OP

Was very careful with the installation. Don't think I bent anything and like I said, I
checked it a million times. We're using 1 4gig stick of RAM per computer.
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Spice
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Serrano
killmongaro Jan 15, 2016 at 8:42 AM

Zwickasaurus wrote:
Pretty sure i7s don't have actual pins.
Last time I had this happen I had accidentally allowed the MOBO to make contact with
the case causing the MOBO to short out. Bad hardware in there some where.
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Spice
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Mace

longvue2 wrote:
to use new paste?
As a general rule of thumb, you should always use new paste when changing components, and it should
be a VERY thin layer that's evenly distributed. I still don't believe that's the issue, though.
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Datil
GORT Jan 15, 2016 at 8:44 AM
It is likely a defective part, but not the motherboard. Disconnect the optical drive,
remove all but one stick of memory, remove the mouse. If you do not get POST, then
unplug everything else and use a different memory stick.
Does it POST? If so, it is likely the Optical disc .... no, maybe the keyboard ..... or
perhaps the memory.
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Spice
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Anaheim
OP

Mobo didn't come with any risers. Already tried removing RAM and putting in other slot
but still no boot.
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Spice
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Anaheim
OP
GORT wrote:
perhaps the memory.
The only thing I have plugged in to the tower is the hard drive and PSU. No monitors or
keyboards onto it.
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Spice
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Cayenne
Patch_413 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:46 AM

longvue2 wrote:
but still no boot.
Risers would have been in the case already if this was a motherboard swap, sounds like
you didn't mess with them at all though. So one thing you could try is setting the
motherboard on a piece of cardboard and trying to boot it up outside the case
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Spice
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Mace

killmongaro wrote:
+ expand
The CPU pins have been located in the socket themselves since the P4 days. They're still there -- just not
on the CPU itself.
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Spice
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Thai Pepper
Andre S Jan 15, 2016 at 8:48 AM

Never trust a cheap PSU tester.
Swap with a known good PSU.
Does it POST at all with everything disconnected?
Does it beep like crazy if you try to power on with no memory installed?
If not, the board is bad.
I've also seen this when the CPU power connectors are not plugged in.
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Spice
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Anaheim
OP

Andre S wrote:
Did this already too. Took out a PSU on a working desktop and put in our new one and
still same fan issue.
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Spice
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Mace
GORT has the right idea. Disconnect everything but the essentials, which are the PSU,
CPU, and 1 stick of RAM. If you get it to POST, then you can start plugging things in. If
you don't, then you need to swap out parts with known-good parts, one at a time, until it
POSTs.
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Spice
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Datil
Jim4232 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:59 AM

I have had a couple of these, one was a bad PSU and the other was a bad CPU. Swap
out the PSU and if that does not work you have a bunch of spare parts!
WIth as much as has been spent on parts already combined with the time involved,
getting another machine might be more cost effective.
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Spice
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Anaheim
OP

Zwickasaurus wrote:
POSTs.
Just did this. Took Mobo out of tower and placed it on cardboard. Only had PSU, CPU
and 1 stick of RAM in. It did the exact thing. Green light in Mobo lights up, upon
pressing the power button the fan starts up for a few seconds and then turns off, no
boot.
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Spice
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Anaheim
OP

Jim4232 wrote:
It's basically a new machine with a new mobo and new psu. Suggesting a new
CPU+fan to my boss will anger him LOL.
 Can you pull a cpu from a different machine just to test it?
Honestly, I had this happen and it was a bad CPU.
BBIAngie wrote:
An
Can you pull a cpu from a different machine just to test it?
Yeah I will have to try. After all, troubleshooting is part of our IT job. Will try everything
available to get to the bottom of this.
Datil
+ expand
If it is a new machine, warranty the thing! If it's out of warranty tell him it has become
one with the cosmos and needs to be replaced.
Jalapeno
cadams4116 Jan 15, 2016 at 9:14 AM

Check the CPU socket on the board. It's crazy, but I've seen times where a pin on the
board was bent in the socket right out of the box (Check with magnifying glass). It will
cause these symptoms.
Fans Spin then stop

By ibscoutr · 10 years ago
I am in the process of building a computer and ran into a snag. When I go to hit power, the
fans spin a second and then stop. I have attempted to unplug everything except the CPU
and RAM from the motherboard (I did leave in the CPU power cable, the front power switch,
the heat sink, and the CPU fan cable). I do not get any POST beeps. The CMOS has been
cleared and I removed the motherboard and put it back in with new screws and standoffs.
The memory was also removed and each piece was tried in each slot. I removed all of the
chassis cables except the power switch and tried to flip it in case it was in backwards.
Below are the relevant specs:
Intel E6600
AeroCool CPU Fan
ASUS P5B
Corsair 1GB x 2 DDR2
650W ZeroDBA PSU
Could it be that the motherboard is fried? I do not have another CPU, MB, or PSU to
eliminate them from possibility. Before I send parts back, I just thought I would inquire on
this forums' excellent opinion
Power Good Circuit

by TheChas · 10 years agoIn reply to Fans Spin then stop
Here is what is happening.
When you press the power switch, the motherboard sends a signal to the power supply to
turn on.
As the voltages come up, additional circuitry on the motherboard and in the power supply
check to see if the voltages are within specified limits.
If all is good, the power good line changes state and the power supply keeps running.
You have the power starting up, but no power good signal.
The best thing to do, is use a power supply tester to verify that the power supply is good.
The second best is to try a different power supply.
I assume that the clear CMOS jumper is in the "Normal" position.
Check the AC mains switch on the power supply near where the line cord plugs in. Is it set
to the correct line voltage?
In the US, it should be set to 115/120.
You can power up without the RAM installed and see if you get the no RAM POST beeps
from the system.
Without parts to swap, there is little else I can suggest you check.
Replacing the standoffs may be an issue. Were any providing a ground to the MOBO?? Or
were some standoffs shorting the power supply?? Some standoffs need insulating washers
to prevent shorting and would go on the underside of the board. Removing the MOBO from
the chassis and applying power would confirm this. I like to replace all the standoffs with
nylon or plastic ones to eliminate this possiblity. If still no luck then the power supply is the
most likely suspect and then the MOBO
Problem: When powering up the system, the CPU fan starts to spin (I can hear like CPU is
starting too), but suddenly after 4-5 seconds, it stops; and then after another 3-4 seconds it
starts to spin again; but then stops after 4-5 secs. This goes on and on automatically for at
least 8-10 times. Then it finally gets to the POST.
Once there, everything seems normal. Then I turned it off and back on several times to see
if it works, and now every time is a successful boot. Problem appears to be gone.
BUT; then after turning it off, I waited for 10 minutes (like to let it cool down). Then the
problem appears again. (several failed attemps on its own to finally boot). It is like it boots
when only when hot or something, I don't know.
It's important to mention that this system has been running for + or - 2 years with the PSU
I had previously: Agiler AGI-PS800.
Now, the new PSU I bought is a Corsair Tx-750W completely new. The problem shows up

with BOTH, so I'm discarding psu fault.
make sure your motherboard isnt shorting with

anything.

04-05-2011, 08:26 AM #3
Tyree
Emeritus It is very possible the old low
quality PSU did some damage.
Bench Test
Remove EVERYTHING from

the case.
Set the motherboard on a non
conductive surface. The
motherboard box is perfect for
this. DO NOT PLACE THE

MOTHERBOARD ON THE
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Illinois STATIC BAG! It can actually
Posts: 51,675 conduct electricity!
OS: XP Pro-7 Install the CPU and heat sink.
Install 1 stick of RAM.
Install the video card and
attach the power supply
connection(s) to the card if
your card needs it.
Connect the monitor to
the video card.
Connect the power supply to
the motherboard with both the
24pin main
ATX Power connection and the
separate 4 or 8
pin power connection.
Connect power to
the power supply.
Do NOT connect ANYTHING
else. Make sure you have
the power connector on
the CPU fan connected.
Use a small screwdriver to
momentarily short
the power switch connector on
the motherboard. Consult your
motherboard manual to find
which two pins connect to your
case's power switch.
Then touch both pins with a
screwdriver to complete the
circuit and boot the system.
If all is well, it should power up

and you should get a display.
Then assemble the parts into
the case and try again. If the
system now fails to boot, you
have a short in the case and
need to recheck your
motherboard standoffs.
If the system does not boot

after this process, then you
most likely have a
faulty component. You'll need
to swap parts, start with
the power supply, until you
determine what is defective

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04-06-2011, 06:55 PM #4
Oc3an
Registered Member You won't believe my disgrace. Haha. Have a laugh :

Join Date: Apr 2011 I did the recommended bench test; removed
Posts: 10 absolutely everything from MB, left only MB, PSU;
OS: xp sp3
1memory stick & monitor to onboard graphics. And
placed MB on non conductive surface out of the case.
-Using new corsair tx750w PSU:
CPU fan spins continously but no video to the monitor.
No response when trying to shutdown by holding
the power button (or shorting the 2 power pins on
the MB with a screwdriver). Had to use PSU I/O to
shut down
-Using old agiler 800w PSU:

It boots! Normally! (***)
-Then added the gtx260 video card to this setup (old

PSU); and failed. Removed nvidia, worked fine. (old
PSU)
-Ok; so I tested the Corsair PSU with a second,

functional PC. (again: MB out of the case, only ram,
cpu and monitor): It works perfectly!. Tested on that
system the old PSU: worked perfectly!;
added nvidia gtx to that system: worked perfectly with
both PSU's.
So as you see problem on the first PC was either of 2

things: MB or CPU. But, using the old PSU, everything
worked fine without adding nvidia card. It wouldn't
work with nvidia card anymore.
Wait till you read this:
I was tired of this and decided to use this system

without the nvidia card, and old PSU, since it was
working that way. So I assembled it, put it in the case,
etc. (old psu, +1 memory stick + other hardware.)
Could use windows, etc, normally. Then I turned it off
disconnected and added the 2nd memory stick.
Turned on and... PLUM!, a little explosion and a fried
electronics smell hahaha.
Checked the back MB and one of those little "streets" i

dont know what's their name, those little roads that
carry the info from place to place; was broken, near
the memory slot. So, MB to the trash can.
Sooo, Bought new mainboard today. Also

bought new memory stick.
Following this forum recommendations, placed it over

the box, plugged in memory stick, CPU, cpu
fan, monitor & PSU. (smile on my face)
Shorted power pins with screwdriver And...............
No boot!!!!!!! hahahahahahahahaha.. (should have
looked at my face...) just the spinning cpu fan, with
no video signal to the monitor.
New MB; New memory; New PSU.... = F*ng
CPU!!!!!!!!
Tested CPU on other compatible PC: No response. CPU

Damaged.
That would be the end of my story, but just for your

amusement:
Read this, my last disgrace:
There is a 3rd PC in my house, which i opened and

took its cpu out to see if its mainboard has same
socket so to test the damaged cpu, but it wasn't
compatible; so i reinstalled its own cpu. Just removed,
had a look, and reinstalled. And............... it doesn't
start anymore!!! hahahaaha, no modification
whatsoever to this 3rd pc, nothing!, just took out cpu
and put it back again. Even bench tested it: MB out of
the case, just essentials, and there isn't even a sound,
a glimpse of energy, nothing. Hit
the power button and nothing, nothing at all, as if it
were disconnected from power source. Tried with
other PSU's, nothing. it's like completely dead.
hahaha
I'm gonna shot myself.

With your permission.
By the way before I do it: What do you think may

have caused this 3rd PC to die completely, if I only
took out the cpu and put it back in?, and now there is
abslutely no response at all, no spinning fans, nothing.
(functional psu's tried)
Fan on motherboard spins for a few seconds then stops, no boot

4
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Brand new mobo
Brand new PSU
LED light on mobo is on green
Specs are:
ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA 1155 Intel H61 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Cooler Master Elite Power - 460W Power Supply
4Gig Kingston RAM
i7 CPU
So this desktop died on us. We put in a new PSU in it but still no booting. Bought a
PSU tester and everything passes on the PSU. Was convinced it was the mobo so we
bought a new one. Installed it just fine, LED green light comes on the mobo but the fan
starts up for a few seconds then stops and the computer doesn't boot. Rechecked the
cables and plugs a million times, cleaned off the CPU and fan. Still does the same
thing. Tried with a different PSU but no luck. I'm stumped. Help please?
Reply 38
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38 Replies
Ghost Chili
starg33ker Jan 15, 2016 at 8:36 AM

paste?


Spice
(1)
 Reply


Mace
Best Answer

Spice
(2)
 Reply


Mace

starg33ker wrote:
paste?
The first stuff is good, but overheating doesn't make sense in this case. OP should get
at least a couple minutes of boot time before it shuts down for overheating.

Spice
(2)
 Reply
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
Anaheim
OP

to use new paste?

Spice
 Reply
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
Cayenne
Patch_413 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:42 AM

First: All your risers are installed properly right?
Second: remove ram, try again by adding 1 stick at a time
Third: Unhook everything but the cpu fan and main power, does it still only do a minimal
boot
Fourth: If the motherboard is brand new, RMA it. It could be faulty and if they're willing
to replace it why not.
Let us know how those turn out for you


Spice
 Reply


Anaheim
OP

Was very careful with the installation. Don't think I bent anything and like I said, I
checked it a million times. We're using 1 4gig stick of RAM per computer.

Spice
 Reply


Serrano
killmongaro Jan 15, 2016 at 8:42 AM

Zwickasaurus wrote:

Spice
 Reply


Mace

longvue2 wrote:
to use new paste?
As a general rule of thumb, you should always use new paste when changing
components, and it should be a VERY thin layer that's evenly distributed. I still don't
believe that's the issue, though.

Spice
(2)
 Reply


Datil
GORT Jan 15, 2016 at 8:44 AM

perhaps the memory.

Spice
 Reply


Anaheim
OP

but still no boot.

Spice
 Reply


Anaheim
OP

GORT wrote:
perhaps the memory.
The only thing I have plugged in to the tower is the hard drive and PSU. No monitors or
keyboards onto it.

Spice
 Reply


Cayenne
Patch_413 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:46 AM

longvue2 wrote:
but still no boot.
Risers would have been in the case already if this was a motherboard swap, sounds like
you didn't mess with them at all though. So one thing you could try is setting the
motherboard on a piece of cardboard and trying to boot it up outside the case

Spice
 Reply


Mace

killmongaro wrote:
+ expand
The CPU pins have been located in the socket themselves since the P4 days. They're
still there -- just not on the CPU itself.

Spice
 Reply


Thai Pepper
Andre S Jan 15, 2016 at 8:48 AM

Does it POST at all with everything disconnected?
Does it beep like crazy if you try to power on with no memory installed?
If not, the board is bad.
I've also seen this when the CPU power connectors are not plugged in.

Spice
 Reply


Anaheim
OP

Andre S wrote:
Did this already too. Took out a PSU on a working desktop and put in our new one and
still same fan issue.


Spice
 Reply


Mace

POSTs.

Spice
(2)
 Reply


Datil
Jim4232 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:59 AM


Spice
 Reply


Anaheim
OP

Zwickasaurus wrote:
POSTs.
Just did this. Took Mobo out of tower and placed it on cardboard. Only had PSU, CPU
and 1 stick of RAM in. It did the exact thing. Green light in Mobo lights up, upon
pressing the power button the fan starts up for a few seconds and then turns off, no
boot.

Spice
 Reply


Anaheim
OP

Jim4232 wrote:

Spice
 Reply


Tabasco
BBIAngie Jan 15, 2016 at 9:04 AM


Spice
(2)
 Reply


Anaheim
OP

BBIAngie wrote:
Yeah I will have to try. After all, troubleshooting is part of our IT job. Will try everything
available to get to the bottom of this.

Spice
 Reply


Datil
Jim4232 Jan 15, 2016 at 9:06 AM

longvue2 wrote:
+ expand
If it is a new machine, warranty the thing! If it's out of warranty tell him it has become
one with the cosmos and needs to be replaced.

Spice
(1)
 Reply


Jalapeno
cadams4116 Jan 15, 2016 at 9:14 AM

Check the CPU socket on the board. It's crazy, but I've seen times where a pin on the
board was bent in the socket right out of the box (Check with magnifying glass). It will
cause these symptoms.

Computer Will Not Start

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Computer Will Not Start

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Computer will not start, post, fans

wont turn on, no beep.

reattach and try to start it up again.

Computer won't turn on, computer

Yours may be different depending on the manufacturer.

Go through this step-by-step guide.

CPU fan starts spinning then just

How to Fix a No-Input Signal to a Computer

Computer powers on, but does not boot

Remember not to leave it ON for more than 5 secs.

20.Is your CPU supported by the BIOS revision installed on your

To eliminate the possiblility of a bad installation where something is shorting

Monitor Gets No Signal / Computer Won't Boot

Fan on motherboard spins for a few

Big Green Man Jan 15, 2016 at 8:38 AM

starg33ker Jan 15, 2016 at 8:36 AM

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Big Green Man Jan 15, 2016 at 8:38 AM

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Big Green Man Jan 15, 2016 at 8:39 AM

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longvue2 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:40 AM

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Patch_413 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:42 AM

Second: remove ram, try again by adding 1 stick at a time

Let us know how those turn out for you

longvue2 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:42 AM

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killmongaro Jan 15, 2016 at 8:42 AM

Pretty sure i7s don't have actual pins.

Big Green Man Jan 15, 2016 at 8:43 AM

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longvue2 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:44 AM

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Patch_413 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:46 AM

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Big Green Man Jan 15, 2016 at 8:47 AM

Pretty sure i7s don't have actual pins.

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Andre S Jan 15, 2016 at 8:48 AM

Swap with a known good PSU.

Does it POST at all with everything disconnected?

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longvue2 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:50 AM

Never trust a cheap PSU tester.

Swap with a known good PSU.

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Jim4232 Jan 15, 2016 at 8:59 AM

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longvue2 Jan 15, 2016 at 9:01 AM

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longvue2 Jan 15, 2016 at 9:02 AM

Honestly, I had this happen and it was a bad CPU.

cadams4116 Jan 15, 2016 at 9:14 AM

Fans Spin then stop

Power Good Circuit

Here is what is happening.

I assume that the clear CMOS jumper is in the "Normal" position.

Now, the new PSU I bought is a Corsair Tx-750W completely new. The problem shows up

make sure your motherboard isnt shorting with

Remove EVERYTHING from