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A safe way to saw shims eda | CROSSCUT SLED esi ache te EXACT-WIDTH DADO JIG a Br a cba, >) Ecce r alee adjustable miter-gauge | extension With shop scraps, a router bit, and a pair of bolts, you'll have this shop helper up and running in minutes. WOOD» magazine shop, you usually have a wooden extension attached to your tablesaw miter gauge. An extension gives you control when crosscutting and backs up cuts to prevent grain fearout, Sometimes you'll clamp a stopblock to it for accurate at cuts or to control the length of ‘a tenon oF lap joint. While most scrap extensions are screwed to the miter and fixed, here's how to make an adjustable one with router-cut ‘T-slots and a pair of '4" toilet-flange bolts. (You'll find these bolts in the plumbing department of hardware stores ‘or home centers.) The extension is 80 ‘easy to make, you won't hesitate to throw itaway when it's used up. ‘The position of the attachment holes n your miter gauge determines the width of the extension, For a miter ‘atige with holes close to the bottom, 3"-wide extension will accommodate two T-slots. (The Delta shown in the photos has holes 74” from the bottom.) For a miter gauge with holes higher up, measure from the bottom Of the gauge to the center of the holes, and double this dimension to determine the width of an extension with a single centered T-slot, A range of 18-24” isa ‘good length. Use solid stock, plywood, ‘or medium-density fiberboard for an extension, and make several at atime so you'll always have a fresh supply With your extension stock cut to size, Use your tablesaw to cut grooves, where shown in Step 1 of the drawing, above right. Then switeh to your table-mount- ed router, and use a keyhole bit to rout T-slots, where shown in Step 2 I you're like the craftsmen in the www. woodmagazine.com & ie p 1 Cut rough grooves, Groove centered on imiter-gauge holes Extension ‘stock 2 Rout four slots. Cut T-slot in two passes. | Keyhole bit Tablesaw Enlarge the holes in your miter gauge to 1%", and fasten the extension to the miter gauge, as shown below. When one end of the extension gets chewed up. loosen the bolts, and slide it off. Flip the The elongated flat head of a tollet-lange bolt makes a perfect T-slot fastener. If space allows, substitute wing nuts in place of the supplied hexnuts. Me Router table extension end for end, slide it back over the bolts, and tighten the nuts, bringing the uncut end of the exten as shown below. @ Whether your extension has twin T-slots ‘0r a centered one, you can mount it with ‘either edge down. When one end is used up, flip the extension end for end, high visibili dri bit holder space, but they make it hard to see and retrieve bits. With our dril-bit holder you can find your bits in a jiffy without having to open a box. The bit sizes are right in front of you all of the time. ‘To make the holder, remove and measure the metal cartridges that hold your drill bits. Dado the two sides of the holder, as shown, to match the width of the cartridges. After you glue the two halves together and attach the base, insert spacer blocks at the bottom of the dadoes as nk sary. These raise the cartridges high enough so you can read the bit sizes stamped on the front. Fez metal drill-bit boxes save Dado haf the thickness Spacer of cartridge blocks to ath of adjust rng cartndge tised Height. ae Project Design: Erv Roberts Photograph: King Au 5/3" shank holo, husvation: Roxanne LeMoine ‘countersunk on botiom, “Fea plot hole IK #8 11" FH. wood sorew Cutlarge panels safely with our sheet goods supportrack . uild and use this handy helper and plywood off-cuts crashing to the ground. Just put your workpiece on the rack, set your circular-saw blade about 16" deeper than the thickness of the sheet goods, and cut, Fasten all the pieces with brass screws—should you nick one, the soft brass won't damage ‘your sawblade as steel screws would. When you're done, the rack stores easily ona wall, Project Design: Jim Downing Photograph: Bil Hopkins, Jr. Iustration: Roxanne LeMoine a‘ 3 Material Key: N-mapl Supple: #2" brass fathead screws #8 x 206" brass FH. screws Great Shop Projects 2008 workbench ae tool crib Keep power tools out of sight and out of the way, yet right at hand when you want them, with this easy-to-make workstation helper. Jo store his tools close at hand, reader Donovan Nagel of Madison, Wisconsin, designed and built this flip-down tool crib that neatly secures in place beneath the benchtop. He stores power tools init, but you can use it to suit your needs Simply build the crib as shown fo fit between the legs of your work bench. Fasten it in place with two %" carriage bolts. To put your crib into action, simply pull on the handle cutout and swing it out. A pair of stops screwed to the bottom of your workbench help prevent the crib from ever falling too far forward or backward. ‘As an added feature, cut a hole in the back piece and install a grounded multi-outlet power strip in the tool crib, ® Note: All stock is 4" plywood except stopblocks. a Length to | lock nut flat washer Handle/cord ‘cutout Grounded rmult-outlet power strip 1" hole for cord #8116 FH, < ‘wood screws, / 6" grooves 9" deep 3 hole” 36" rabbet 6" deep 3 Trom bottom edge Project Design: Donovan Nagel Imustations: Kim Downing seme woodmagazine.com 3 long-reach clamp extensions a Need added pressure? These provide it. Stationary head amping jobs like that shown below require clamping pressure farther in from the edge than sliding-head clamps provide. These hardworki ry FULL-SIZE extensions solve the problem, (We've fityour CLAMP EXTENDER used them on Jorgensen sliding-head-type cere a PATTERN ela danse beeetaningart (2 needed) bar clamps.) Siding head imply cut a pair ofthe extensions to shape from 1"-square stock (we lami- nated two pieces of" maple), using our Weseep nae full-size pattern, Pop the bar pin out of Bar pin ‘fe! larger than the end of your clamp's bar. Then, drill tegen and cut a slot in each extension soit sides 4 t smoothly, but fits sn S ut the extensions on the bar in the con: figuration shown on the drawing at right Mark the location of the swivel on its mating extension. Remove that extension from the bar, and drill a }4"-deep hole Ye" larger than the diameter of the swivel-head clamp end wher As shown inthe photo at right, posi tion the sliding head next to the extension ‘when moving the two back and forth on the bar. If you leave a gap between them. they tend to bind and are harder to move in unison. Drilling the hole for the swivel in the extension allows you to slide the extension flash against the metal head. ‘on the bar. f Gh Slot cut to fit your clamp's bar ss'-deep hole e" larger than the diameter of the swivel Project Dosign: Mike Sames, Fairview. ‘Michigan; Chuck Hedlund Hlustations: Roxanne LeMoine Photographs: Dean Tannor Great Shop Projects 2008 . hole-in-none e ee circle jig Make perfect circles without center holes with our simple shop aid. perfectly round wood dises in a world of i, flat saw blades isn’t as difficult as it sounds. Holesaws and circle cutters excel at cutting dises with center holes, And that’s great if you're maki wheels for toys. But, what if you want perfect circles without center holes, say for making a set of drink coasters? WOODs magazine Projects Euitor Jan Syec came up with the ji just that, Start by clampin, shown at right that does ihe base to your dise-sander table, Position the sliding bar so that the distance from the nail to the sanding disc equals the radius of the cirele you want to make. (See the dravit ) Lock this measurement in by clamping a stopblock on the underside ofthe stde bar as shown belo On a piece of serapwood, Jay out a circle erin diam- eter than the dise you want, (Use a compass for the layout you'll want a cenier mark on this piece.) Rough-cut this cirele ay Sliding bar wite nail x2x314" stopblock dado 94" deep Base #17 x 44 wite nail ‘, Ruler Sidi . Wilt, | POX. ro : Ths distance equals ~ the desired radius of ‘your cic, clamp 2 on your bandsaw, With a clipped-off #17%%" wire nail, drill a hole in the center of the disc and slip the disc over the nail on the sliding bar. Sand this scrapwood dise to the size of your fin shed dise by rotating and fi the stopblock contacts the ji Using this scrapwood dise as a model, lay out a slightly mn your workpiek cut it. Now a your workpiece to the top of the model disc using cloth-backed, ‘ouble-face carpet tape. Sand this piece the Sime way you sanded the model disc. You can reuse the model disc to make as many discs as you like. # ding it into the sandit oversize cir and rou Projact Desig: Jan Svee iustatons: Rexanne LeMoine stationary tool leg stand Put your machines at the right height and on a firm foundation by building our sturdy, permanent base for shop equipment. splayed legs, makes a sturdy, yet good-looking base for any machine. Use the dimensions in the Materials List and Drawings 1 and 2 to ‘make the 26"-high stand shown in the photo at right, or custom-make one to {ita specific machine in your shop. To size the parts for any machine, follow Ae stand, with tapered and slightly #8 x2" FH. wood sorews 1) Add 4" to the length of the machine base for the length of the side rails (A), 2) Add 4” to the width of the machine 9 flat washer and nut ~— a base for the length of the end rails (B). 9 bevels along SS 3) Subtract 3” from the length of the all top edges > / side rails for the length of the cleats(C). 4) Multiply your desired height by 1.074 forthe length of the blanks forthe leg halves (D). Here's how to put the leg stand together, Cut the rails (A, B) to the dimensions shown on Drawing 2, and screw them together to form aectangu- lar frame. Fit the cleats (C) into the ri frame, and screw in place, Set the frame aside. Cut blanks for the leg halves (D) to size and dri the holes where shown, ‘Remember to make mirrored pairs. Bevel-rip the mating edges. Then, with the saw blade tilted at the same angle, cat te spine slots inthe bevels. Next, Inake the angled and beveled cuts at the See top and bottom of each leg half. Glue, hardboard spline —— spline, and clamp the legs as shown in the photo at right. With the glue dry, o- cut the leg tapers. Cut 5" plywood to size for the top (E), and bolt it to the BH ExPLoveD view cleats (C). Then bolt your machine to the top. # 444 bevels on outside comers of legs- Groat Shop Projects 2000 Materials List 2 Z Coats z Dieghaves oe Ow ave MOO Eiop aie 25m Pt Matorial Koy: M-marle, BP-bich plywood ‘Supplies: i" tenpored hardboard," cariage bots 2° Jong (16) with fat washers and nus, #8:2 ahead wood screws (16), irish Witten by Jan Svee with Erv Roberts Project Design: James R. Downing Iusiations: Kim Downing: Lorna Johnson Clamping the legs (0) to the frame (A/B/C) holds them at the proper angle while you finish clamping their length Bi parts view 5 eeu “a holes, countersunk CJeais(©) are located here ye eles Hat.) (senso ce 4 To Ta: ie —_—s sit — | SIDE RAIL 9° bevel along top edge — are == 20" east ae END RAIL ‘holes; mark locations Using holes in cabinet base. + a 22s = our! J f CLEAT Bet LEG HALVES srw woodmagazine.com, @ fail-safe hinge jig Transfer hinge locations from door to carcase with accuracy. counting hinges on an inset cabinet door is a straightforward process. You lay the door on ‘your workbench, locate the hinges where you want them, and serew them in place If they need to be mortised, you mark the outline of the hinge leaf witha knife or chisel, But how do you accuratel transfer the hinge locations to the carcase ‘or to another door? WOOD» magazine's Master Craftsman Chuck Hedlund faced this situation not once, but four times when making a set of built-in bookcases, To solve the problem, he devised a single-use jig like the fone shown here. 2vs"-wide, V3" plywood jig rail than the door you are hanging, and two YoOVx24" plywood stop- blocks. Then, cut four /’2Gx3" plywood index blocks for each binge. Glue and clamp the stopblocks to the rail at one end, as shown on Drawing 1. Now, temporarily remove the ral Stick small pieces of double-faced tape to the door next to the hinges. Adhere index blocks to the door, snug, against the hinges, where shown ‘on Drawing 2 Stick a large piece of double faced tape 10 each installed index block: Now, hook one of the rail’s stopblocks on the door’s top edge, and press the rail onto the index blocks, where shown on Drawing 3. Keep the rail’s back edge and the index blocks’ back edges flush, “To make the jig usable on both and lefichanded doors, align a second set of index blocks with the first, sandwich- ing the rail between them, where shown on Drawing 4, Carefully remove the rail and attached blocks from the door Drive 14" wire brads from both sides to Jock the squares in place Hinges previously installed in desired locations. 3° longer _——— than door a Groat Shop Projects 2006 tape protrude 12° Doubletaced’ Index locks 7 Nail stopblocks to Jig ral with V2" brads after removing jig. Stopblocks Ct off stopbiocks just above top of index blocks. ‘Mark the top index block for reference. Index blooks = “Trim the jig rail, ‘et longer than the door. at ee Hooking one stopblock on each doors top edge, use the jig to locate the hinges fon the rest of the doors. Drill the hinge serew pilot holes. ‘Once again, hook the jig's stopblock ‘on a door’s top edge. Mark and trim the rail to extend Vis" beyond the door's bottom, where shown on Drawing 5. This extra ¥ic" is the gap between the door and the carease. ‘ewe. woodmagazine.com, ‘Mark the jig’s top end. Remove the stopblocks by cutting the rail just above the top index blocks, as shown. Now the jig is ready to position the hinges in the carcase. Simply place the jig against the inside of the cabinet with the rail’s marked end up, where shown ‘on Drawing 6, Clamp or use double~ faced tape to hold the jig in place. The index blocks bracket the hinges, just as they did on the doors. Finally, position the hinges between the index blocks, and drill the serew pilot holes. liustravione: Erich Lage; Lorna Johnson self-contained spray adhesive drawer Keep the mess confined with a handy drawer that pulls out to support patterns and catch overspray. ~ @- <0 ex 19% x19) mesh hardware cloth ex 20% x 1904" plywood bottom pray adhesives work wonderfully S sudhering serollsaw patterns to a vorkpiece. But the inevitable glue overspray’ can leave ar benchtop. And if you spreac! out news- papers, you quickly find that the patterns stick to the newspaper as well as they do to your workpiece, This handy adhesive drawer makes the job slick, not sticky. The hardware cioth, available from ‘most home and garden centers, allows 40 RR ox% x 1916" stock 8x30" panhead screw 8 tat washer T expLopen e VIEW Vx 1 x 244 stook the glue overspray to pass harmlessly through to the drawer bottom. And your patterns won't stick to this mesh Build the drawer and guides as shown in the drawings. Attach the guides to the underside of your benchtop with #8%2" flathead wood screws. If you have an apron beneath the top of your bench, you'll need to lower the drawer. Add the height of the apron to the height of the drawer guides. To keep #8 x panhead screw #8 flat washer = | ail i Harpaare cloth 4 = 34% rbot sel deep DRAWER SIDE SECTION VIEW it ett shank hole, countersunk He DRAWER GUIDE SECTION VIEW the drawer from tipping as it opens, attach an additional /x¥%" hardwood runner to each draver guide 294" from the bottom ofthe guide. # Projact Design: Rick Hutcheson Iustrasons: Roxanne LeMoine Photograph: Marty Baldwin Great Shop Projects 2006 hose/cord holder Build our simple solution to everyday entanglements. hop-vacuum hoses have a wa hazard underfoot. To keep yours in check, build our hose holder. When ‘you install the mounting serews in the perforated hardboard, just snug them up because overtightening will easily strip ‘out the holes. You can use itto wind up messy cords as well. # Project Oesion: Erv Roberts PPhotograp Bil Hopkins ‘stratons: Roxanne LeMoine 2° (distance END VIEW between DETAIL ve" hexhead sheet-metal sorew #8114" FH. wood screw —— pegboard holes) ‘long x ew | % A 94 countertbore ¥6" deep with a “ae" pilot hole centered inside Tabletop fastener ~ #8 x 17" FH. wood screws 3° (LD, PVC pipe 9 ben =) : shiek stock 9 2" shank holes, countersunk 88 x 174" FH, wood sorow 13" pilot hole 116" deep EXPLODED VIEW — Retainer board ‘www. woodmagazine.com " knockdown sawhorses After a hard day’s work, these sturdy horses stow away in minimal space while waiting for their next task. pair of sawhorses come in mighty handy when you Pievsecscri ste ser area, But where do you corral them when you're not using them? Build these sturdy horses, designed by WOOD» magazine reader Wade Olson, of Colfax, Wash, and when you are done using them, you simply break them ‘down and hang them flat against the wall With no hardware to fuss with, you can assemble and dis- assemble the pieces in just seconds. Because they're made completely of wood, you'll never have to worry about catching a saw blade on a metal bracket or fastener. One full sheet of ¥%" plywood yields a pair of sawhorse. ‘The beam ends and stretcher ends are shown in the inset photo righ. To make them, enlarge the patterns below. ® lissvations: Roxanne LeMoine 1" hole for hanging ie o 1" hole for hanging h BEAM END } (2 needed) STRETCHER END (@ needed) STRETCHER AND BEAM PATTERNS Note: Enlarge 200% to make ph. ao | Great Shop Projects 2006 CUTTING DIAGRAM (For 2 sawtorses) 94x 48 x 96" Plywood EXPLODED VIEW wewwstoodmagazine.com 11° bevel” | 13 handy4-in-1 dowel gauge Double-check the sizes of your dowels before you assemble a project with this custom-made measuring device. ‘oweling can turn dicey when the dowels dliameter—or the hole you drill is too shallow or too deep. The solution? Build our 4-in-1 dowel gauge. With it you can double- check these measurements before you assemble ‘project. To build the gauge, use a piece of killn-dried hardwood. This will help minimize any humidity-related swelling and shrinking of the wood. Here are the four features this handy helper provides: The dowel-sizing gauge on the face of the block offers three holes with standard dowel diameters plus holes that measure ger and smaller than the standard diam- . Check the fit of your dowels in these holes, and then you can select the appropriate drill bit if your dowel is just a hair too big or too litle. When you want to drill a hole to a precise depth, use the hole-depth gauge Just insert your drill bit inthe appropriate hole and mark the depth on the shank of the bit with @ piece of masking tape. The dowel-hole depth gauge gives you two holes that measure one-half ie length of two standard dowel pin lengths—114" and 2'—plus Ye", Use these holes to mark the depth on your dil bit. By drilling your dowel holes ¥is" deeper, you give ie a place to escape, and your dowel pin won't protrude too far from its hole. At the rear of the block, the V-slot helps keep your drill bit plumb. Just place ‘the bit on the workpiece, push the slot up to the bit, and tit the bit und it fits snugly in the comer of the slot. Project Design: Jim Downing Photograph: Hetherington Photography iiustration: Roxanne LeMoine 44 ~ 82 fa 38 1 Je 5 _/ ob thet g 1 Lend bin Edge _ Face DOWEL-SIZING GAUGE a | | a ( a} Ca ‘er KY Lg yes" ba Hes" c [aml |, ae > Mya" | ) ( fy Gy) ee eS og Se 2 hex" Fie" Phos" a @ D\\\e@ 21" 4 OO) © — Visa We je" Veslot - —— 20 - Great Shop Projects 2006 sheet goods mover/lifter Move large pieces easily and without an assistant. ness of moving large sheet g00ds by yourself, And it’s nigh on impossible to get them up on sawhorses ‘without help (or the horses skittering ‘across the Floor). You'll never again have to cajole reluctant family members into helping if you use this system. Build the dolly from ¥" plywood or medium-density fiberboard (MDF), and solid stock, as shown in the drawings at right. Carefully position the casters so they run paraliel to one another—other- wise, the dolly can shimmy like a bad shopping cart. Each lifter consists of a pair of hinged 2xds. One attaches temporarily to the top of your sawhorse; the other guides the stock from vertical to horizontal. ‘To work the system, slide the angle iron of the dolly under the edge of the sheet you want to move. (It works best if you store your sheet goods stand- ing on their long edge, raised up on 2 stickers.) Grab the top of the sheet and tip it toward you. This lifts the material off the stickers and shifts its weight to the dolly. Whee! the sheet to your work area, steering it by tilting and pivot the dolly on one caster. To lay the sheet on sawhorses, roll it imto position over the angle iron of the lifters, and tip the sheet toward the sawhorses to free the dolly. (The sheet should be resting only on the lifters.) Pull the dolly away and set it aside. Raise the material by tilting the top toward the sawhorses—the lifters will drop to the floor once the weight of the sheet transfers to the horses. # F- shop chores rival the awkward- iustratons: Roxanne LeMoine worw.woodmagazine.com, S42" shank hole, _countersunk on back Vox 2iex 24" vex ‘angle iron 1s" doep ‘non-slip tape rabbet! {ie rani atte ‘countersunk ¥e" E.H. machine screw 1 tong, Protrudes 3" from fend of sawhorse / _—-3¥6" heavy-duty hinge 2x4, 1" longer than height of sawhorse 7 2x4, 6 longer than | \ sawhorse base | fexqe FH wood screw ix ax ile I Ee washer pees went eae tae H. ‘machine sorew 9 long, ‘1¥4" dado v6" deeP — in hole, ‘countersunk 15 quick, simple ripping blocks This pair of handheld blocks will provide an added measure of safety and even increase cS Ri suilaasil your productivity. jutting wedges and ripping thin strips rank among the more dangerous tasks you can perform on a tablesaw. Our two ripping blocks add a measure of safety to these operations, plus you only position the fence once to make multiple pieces. ‘You can build these from any flat pieces of serap- ‘wood, Just follow the guidelines given in the drawing below right, To make the handle, cut out and enlarge the pattern provided below. And don’t neglect to add the keepers on the blade side of the handle of each block. These prevent the cut pieces from kicking back. ‘To use either block, set the distance from the fence to the inside edge of the blade equal to the width of Reames the rear of the block. Place the workpiece in the notch in the block, and push it and the block together past the blade, With the fence in the same position, repeat the cutting operations for any number of identical swediges oF thin strips. ® WEDGE RIPPER Photographs: Hetherington Photography iiustatons: Roxanne LeMoine HANDLE PATTERN Note: Enlarge: 200% to make fullsize patter, < \\ cut taper on bandsaw |“ feshape of wedge Notch equals weest caer ec es torrd | 2 \ ) Cut noch \ tothe tess text rN Sipe ‘wood screw a 1 needed. woxtween Ad ‘wood sorew - Great Shop Projects 7006 drop-down tool-storage tray Here’s a great way to squeeze alot of storage space into a small area. he storage tray shown here holds nine measuring and marking tools, and quickly folds up into an unused space. You could just as easily custom: ize your tray to hold chisels, screwalriv- ers, wrenches, or other tools. To build the tray, you must first measure the underside of the cabinet. ‘The length of the tray should equal the inside measurement between the two sides of the cabinet minus '4” for clearance. The width of the tray must equal the measurement from the wall, Ci eae alee ei — OLS. Cut the cleat to fit between the —_— Screw eye Upper-wall Cabinet cabinet sides. #8 wood screw must / wy z trate al feast 1" For accurate positioning, center and Powall stud Align with hole sietieeical aera screw the wooden latch to the bottom infront rail to wall under cabinet edge of the cabinet face frame after welcome te6? tana, | EXPLODED VIEW you have installed the tray. Then, hold pe Sn Laten the tray in the closed position, and Ball chain 7" long the latch and into the front rail of the Werdeep a ‘screwed to storage tray. Finally, cut tool-holding blocks, 99" rabbet 14° deep tray and cleat like those in the photo above, and glue them to the tray bottom to prevent 11 rabbat 1" deep your tools from sliding around. ® \ fr Zz ‘nc to 1% maten bottom ey cae ome 2 oto 4 hole, centered fend to end LATCH FULL-SIZE PATTERN vs hole Sco “oe Project design: R.B. Himes Iustraions: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson PPhotograpr: Hetherington Photography ‘eww. woodmagazine.com 7 drill-press jig for dowels When boring holes in dowels, the dowels canroll around freely. Here are two ways to hold them still. tilling holes into the sides and ends of dowels can Derisesseric cts ep trying to hold round stock in position. Try these simple jigs to hold the dowels rock-steady, Both jigs rely on a V-groove that you cut into a piece of ¥x3%20" scrapwood. To cut the V, tit the blade of (Glernaedito the dvdl-preve lable fils grooved piece et aorepvoad ‘your tablesaw to 30° from vertical, and set the cutting holds dowels steady for horizontal driling. {depth to 3", as shown in Drawing 2. Adjust the fence to place the top of the cut on the centerline of the board, Make one pass over the saw blade, turn the board around, ing a 60° V-groove. Crosscut a 4/4" piece off one end, The longer piece holds your dowels flat on the table, as shown in the photo at right top. The shorter piece forms the basis for the second jig, which holds dowels vertically for drilling into their ends, To-complete the vertical jig, cut « 11/%3x3" block, clamp it to the back of the 44" piece and check to ‘make sure that the V-groove is perpendicular to the base. Then glue and screw the two pieces together, as shown, in Drawing 1. Use the vertical jig, as shown in the photo right, # Photographs: Hetherington Photography re ee ‘Screw the shorter V-groove block to an upright to drill straight down into the end of the dowel. VERTICAL JIG 48x 1 FH wood serew Tablesaw > st “ha! pilot hole St deep ‘4a" shank hole, countersunk 18 a a zero-clearance crosscut sled Ditch the miter gauge to increase the accuracy of your benchtop tablesaw. out and inaccurate cuts, you enjoy the results you get with this zero- clearance crosseut sled designed by WOOD® magazine reader Dan Pacht, He uses the sled to increase the precision of his benchtop tablesaw. It aces the wobbly miter gauge, and reduces tear-out by closing the gap in the saw’s wide-open throat plate. You also could modify the sled for use with a stationary tablesaw by cutting a ¥4" hardboard base to size. Now square the edges of a pine 2x, ripping it to 3” wide, From it, ‘cut two 24"-long pieces, and glue and serew them together to form a shaped fence assembly. TI it to the hardboard base. Next, make a pair of hardwood run- ners to fit your miter-gauge slots. The runners should fit snugly but still be able to slide. Place the runners into their slots and run a small bead of glue along each one where the sled’s base will cover them, Center the base/fence assembly side- to-side on your saw’s table. Square the sled’s fence to the saw blade by placing a framing square against the fence face and along the face of the blade. Allow the glue to dry. Drill countersunk pilot holes in the base, and drive screws through it into the runners. Turn the sled over, and | f you have zero tolerance for glue Soe" shank hole, countersunk — ite x 114 x3 stock #4.2%0" FH. wood screw ina ‘he* countersunk hole Serew eye for hanging #8 20/0" FH, wood screw Sees tom fate slot 18" ong sey cuca oe ee Ii) b nociacew hs fo oarawsie eer Als gasee oie one rad Erie face ofthcsial an bang hex, Fell make tie pkoeal mpdbock not in use. if you wish, and you're ready to go. Simply place the runners into the slots, Note: Dhis crosscut sled is designed nd raise your blade 11" above the Jor Va'-thick stock. To safely Cut thicker | saw table. Glide the sled forward until BM te top ofthe bade cus ino the fence, apr a4 Tiele te elinedwibithesaw HAAMEIP then back ot of the cut Now erosscu Yte Bobart Sete to encase the blade. your workpiece. # Mustrtlon: Rexanne LeMoine; Loma Johnson ‘worw.woodmagazine.com 19 exact-width dado j jig Make your shelves a perfect match witha basic shop aid. ere's a jig for routing bookcase or Perse cs maich the thickness of your shelf stock. Better yet, no special bit Just use an ordinary straight bit and a guide bushing, (We used a 1” guide bushing and 4" straight bit.) To start, cut a 34” rab- bet 4” deep along the inside edge of both ‘guide rails (A). Then complete the jig, as shown in Drawing 1. To customize the rails for a different bushing and bit, install them in your router and trim the protruding lip of the rabbet in the guide rails, where shown in Drawing 1a. The remaining lip will now match your bushing/bit combo. ‘To adjust the jig for the exact width of your shelf stock, slip the jig over the shelf stock, where shown in Drawing 4. Pull the guide rails (A) tightly against the stock, and tighten the wing nuts, Slip the jig off the stock, and clamp the jig onto the piece being dadoed, centering the opening between the rails (A) over the marked dado oon the side panel. Adjust the depth of cut with your router sitting on top of the rails. Start the router and make one pass with — the guide bushing riding against one of the rabbeted rails. Finally, make a second pass riding the bushing against the opposite rab- beted rail. ® are needed. x 2x12 Shelf stock hong: Side panel 1 guide ‘Shelf dado bushing 1 straight bit | HE) DADOING DETAIL s ‘countersunk Fx 314° guide ralls ‘4 hole 14" deep] 20" long with a Vé" hole. Centered inside A carriage bolt 2 ong BB ADJUSTING THE JIG Project Des: Wayne Kot lind, Com esis ovate acter ene ama oben Haharagion ralaroohy ux216@ 20 Great Shop Projects 2008 rotating finishing table Avoid smudges and sticky fingers with a mini-lazy Susan that turns while you stay put and spray. Bf less you can walk completely around your workbench, you're XD limited to finishing only two, ‘maybe three, sides of your projects, ‘without lifting them, With this versatile finishing turntable designed by WOODS wine reacler Mike Sames, of Fairview, Michigan, you can apply fin- ish to every surface without taking a step or lifting the project. To use the table, space three or four sharpened dowels where they'll best Support your workpiece. (You may need to sand the base of the dowels slightly to fit the holes.) Finish the back or bot tom; then place the piece finished side own on the dowels—the points make minimal contaet with the fresh finish, Finish the remaining surfaces by rotat le you spray. Hold arts with clothespins glued smaller to dowels, as shown in the small photo, above right Source 6" lazy Susan. Available from ‘wooxlworking hardware cata- logs, including Woodworker's ly 2, and Wooderafl, 80225-1153. ustreton: Kim Downing woww.woodmagazine.com EXPLODED VIEW inpencl Sp sharpener, i Clothespin

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