BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY

Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology

(EiTEX)

1st year MSc in fashion technology

Design of Experiments and Analytical techniques

(FTec6011)

Mini project on :

Prepared by: Zerihun Kebede

Submitted to: Dr. Shalemu Sharew (PHD)

Submission date: 15/02/2021

Eitex, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

Abstract
Design of Experiments (DOE) is statistical tool deployed in various types of system, process and
product design, development and optimization. It is multipurpose tool that can be used in various
situations such as design for comparisons, variable screening, transfer function identification,
optimization and robust design. This paper explores in conducting experiments on the Influence
of sewing parameters upon the tensile strength of seam in the aspects of 2^2 Factorial
experiments which involves simultaneously of two factor and each factor is at two levels.
Several factors affect simultaneously the characteristic under study in factorial experiments and
the experiment is interested in the main effects and the interaction effects among different factors
and the response.

Introduction
Sewing is a very critical operation which is governed by several factors, like the type of sewing
machine, the stitching velocity, the structure of sewing operation, the method and the ability of
worker, the selection of stitching parameters, etc. seam appearance (straightness, proper stitches)
and also seam tensile performance (strength, elasticity) is the result of combination of all this
factors. In fact, many typical sewing problems occur such us skip stitches, thread breakage,
fabric damage, faulty seam appearance (Inui and Yamanaka, 1998), needle damage, what
reduces productivity and seam quality. The adjustment of all sewing parameters will be a must to
ensure quality. Nevertheless, the lack of understanding of the rule of each factor, and primarily
of the interaction impact between factors limit our ability to optimize right selection of sewing
parameters. Therefore, an experimental study aims to analyze and quantify the influence of some
sewing parameters upon the tensile strength of the seam. The investigation is carried out
according to the factorial experimental design approach. The information available from this
work will allow us to understand and predict the behavior of sewn fabric under the above
conditions.
Materials and methods

The investigation was carried out upon a plain weave fabric, which is composed of
cotton/polyester blend. Then, two parameters have been selected, the stitch density and the edge
of seam. In order to reveal their influences, two levels were selected for each parameter.

To avoid any dissimulation of the effects, I have chosen the complete design plan 22 (4 tests), this
means that interaction is available (the model include all parameters and all the interaction
between them). There established a design plan for each type of assembly: warp assembly (WRi
code) and weft assembly (WFi code). In Table below I gave the design plan for weft assembly
which listed the samples which will be subjected to the tensile test.

A B
Factor’s level (Stitch density) (edge of seam)
-1 3stitches/cm 5
+1 6stitchs/cm 10

Table1.2. Design plan for weft assembly

A B
1 1 1
2 1 1
3 1 -1
4 1 -1
5 -1 1
6 -1 1
7 -1 -1
8 -1 -1

Types of weft assembly failure

1. Rupture of thread after contraction of seam

Photo
 2. Assembly failure by tearing of sample

Photo

3. Breakage of sewing threads after seam slippage

Photo

4. Damage of the fabric

Photo

When the stitch density level is low, the rupture type1 take place: When the stitch density
level is high and the seam edge level is low the rupture type 2 occurs. Whereas, at the high
level of both stitch density and the edge of seam, either the ruptures types 2, 3, or 4 have
been proved to happen. When the stitch density has its minimal value, a rupture of the
sewing thread is constantly noted: the weak friction between the sample and the seam
produces the contracting of the seam letting appear “holes” which progressively become
more significant with the increase of the effort, the stitch line is prone to a longitudinal
deformation which grows until its rupture. Whereas, when stitch density grows (high
level), there is a strong adherence seam-sample, the stitch line piles up the weft of the
sample and dice the small efforts, the warp has to slip from the edge (yarn slippage).
Consequently, at the low level of the edge of seam, yarn in the fabric rapidly pull out the
seam from the edge which produces rupture of the assembly by tearing of the sample.