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Contrary to its name, biotechnology is not a single technology. Rather it is a group of

technologies that share two (common) characteristics -- working with living cells and their
molecules and having a wide range of practice uses that can improve our lives. Biotechnology
can be broadly defined as "using organisms or their products for commercial purposes." As such,
(traditional) biotechnology has been practices since he beginning of records history. (It has been
used to :) bake bread; brew alcoholic beverages, and breed food crops or domestic animals (2).
But recent developments in molecular biology have given biotechnology new meaning, new
prominence, and new potential. It is (modern) biotechnology that has captured the attention of
the public. Modern biotechnology can have a dramatic effect on the world economy and society
(3). One example of modern biotechnology is genetic engineering. Genetic engineering is the
process of transferring individual genes between organisms or modifying the genes in an
organism to remove or add a desired trait or characteristic. This paper deals with the application
of modern biotechnology in textile industries.

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. Enzymes are proteins, composed of amino acids, which are produced by all living organisms.
Enzymes are responsible for a number of reactions and biological activities in plants, animals,
human beings and microorganisms.

. Enzymes are essential for all metabolic processes, but are not themselves living materials.
They are distinguishable from other proteins because of their catalytic activity.
How do enzymes work?

. Enzymes are natural protein molecules that act as highly efficient catalysts in biochemical
reactions, meaning they help a chemical reaction to take place quickly and efficiently. Enzymes
not only work efficiently and rapidly, they are also biodegradable. Enzymes are highly efficient in
increasing the reaction rate of biochemical processes, which typically proceed very slowly, or in
some cases, not at all.
Are enzymes safe?

. Enzymes have been safely used for thousands of years. One of the earliest examples of
industrial enzyme use was in the production of whiskey. Over the years, enzymes have also
been used in beauty and oral care products, textiles, food (e.g. yogurt) and for the fermentation
of cheese, beer and wine.
 . Genencor complies diligently with all health and regulatory requirements that apply to our
technology. Our products are commercialized only after their safety has been fully established. In
our manufacturing plants, we maintain the highest standards of quality assurance.

Do enzymes pose any threat to the environment?

. No. They are biodegradable.

Enzymes are used in the textile industry, mainly in the finishing of fabrics and garments. Major
applications include:

Desizing removal of size, that is stiff elements of fiber, from warp threads in fabrics after
weaving. Bio-polishing a process to reduce pilling tendency and to give fabrics a smoother and
glossier appearance.
Bio-stoning a process where a small dose of enzyme can replace traditional pumice stones used
in stonewashing of denim to achieve a worn look.

application of biotechnology in textile industries

Enzymes for Preparatory Processes
Areas in textile preparation that deserve more attention include scouring, retting, lignin removal and
bleaching of natural cellulosic fibers, degumming of silk and scouring of wool. Research is currently
conducted using pectinases for bioscouring of natural cellulosic fibers. Pectinases are complex
enzymes that break down pectic substances into galacturonic acid and small sugars. Commercially
available pectinases contain only very little cellulases and fiber damage should be limited as
cellulose itself is not targeted. We used various commercial pectinases of different levels of
effectiveness and tested the absorbency and dyeability of the treated products. We further used
mixtures of pectinases and cellulases and studied the effect of these enzyme mixtures on product
softness and appearance. A comparison was made with textile goods scoured using the
conventional caustic process. It was found that although not as white as after caustic scouring the
bioscoured products exhibited a nice soft hand. The achievement of such attractive softness at this
early stage of processing deserves further investigation.

Enzymatic Desizing

Desizing is one of the oldest and best-established textile wet processes involving enzymes. Natural
biodegradable sizing compounds, such as starches, can be hydrolyzed by amylases. These
enzymes are inexpensive and commercially available with flexible pH and temperature ranges. The
amylase formulation usually contains various types of exo- and endo-enzymes, glucoamylases and
debranching enzymes with different modes of action. There is one drawback to this process though
V starch and starch derivatives are broken down into sugars and cannot be recycled. Sugars as the
end products are nontoxic, however, negatively impact the BOD of the wastewater.

Fabric Preparation
 Desizing using amylase enzymes has been well established for many years. However, there is still
considerable scope for improving the speed, economics and consistency of the process, including
the development of more temperature stable enzymes as well as a better understanding of how to
characterize their activity and performance with respect to different fabrics, sizes, and processing
conditions, eg, for pad batch as opposed to jigger desizing. The current application in the textile
industry involves mainly hydrolases and now to some extent is Oxidoreductase. The Tables 1 and 2
exemplify such textile applications. Another desirable development would be enzymes capable of
destroying honeydew sugars, insect secretions that cause stickiness and severe processing
problems

Table: 1 Application of hydrolase enzyme in fabric preparation.

for cotton spinners. An already established application is the use of catalase enzymes to breakdown
residual hydrogen peroxide after, for example, pre-bleach of cotton that is to be dyed a pale or
medium shade. Reactive dyes are especially sensitive to peroxide and currently require extended
rinsing and/or use of chemical scavengers. The enzyme catalase is added after oxidative bleaching
and allowed to react for 15 minutes at 30"afnC- 40"afnC. It degrades the residual peroxide in water
and oxygen. The results obtained were compared with the conventional process and it was found
that the outcome of the enzymatic process was excellent. The best suitable conditions are the
temperature range of 20"afnC- 60"afnC, pH 5-10 and the application time is 10 min to 15 min.

application of biotechnology in textile industries

Bioscouring

Traditionally, cotton scouring has required the use of harsh alkaline chemicals (caustic), extreme
temperatures and large volumes of water. Expenses include not only the cost of the caustic and
energy, but also the cost of treating wastewater to remove residual caustic and by-products.
 Table: 2 Application of hydrolase enzyme in fabric preparation.

Today, textile producers have a new, effective alternative to chemical scouring with the advent of the
CottonaseT enzyme. This novel enzyme not only cleans better than chemical scouring, but also
greatly reduces the need for extensive wastewater treatment and energy consumption. The
CottonaseT enzyme is a versatile, economically viable and environmentally friendly alternative to
chemical scouring in cotton preparation. Noncellulosic impurities, such as fats, waxes, proteins,
pectins, natural colorants, minerals and water-soluble compounds, are found to a large extent in the
primary wall and to a lesser extent in the secondary wall (see Table 3) and strongly limit the water
absorbency and whiteness of the cotton fiber. Quantity and composition varies with growing
conditions, climatic factors and cotton variety. Additionally, neps consisting of immature cotton and
enclosed seed coat fragments present serious problems as they are basically undyeable.

Conventional scouring is performed with 3-6% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at the boil.
Although very effective, the process requires huge amounts of rinse water once the process is
complete. Excessive usage of water and water contamination are expensive and unacceptable.
Seed coat fragments are removed to the most part as a result of the process, but neps remain
unchanged. The need for an alternative, environmentally friendly treatment led to the design of a
novel concept for enzymatic scouring. This process is based on the idea of specifically targeting the
noncellulosic impurities with appropriate enzymes. For example, pectinases could be used for the
decomposition of pectinic substances, proteases for proteins, lipases for fats. Part of the natural
pigments is associated with the noncellulosic compounds and could be lifted off the fiber during
bioscouring. An additional asset of this process is that besides being less energy intensive and more
 environmentally friendly, enzymes used for bioscouring do not affect the cellulose backbone, thus
drastically limit fiber damage.

application of biotechnology in textile industries

Figure 1. Cotton fibers bioscoured with pectinase, xylanase and cellulase; x1000

Biobleaching

Both conventional and enzymatic scouring processes do not affect natural colorants in the cotton
fiber to a major extent, and bleaching is essential for a good level of whiteness, especially for
material to be dyed in lighter shades. Currently, the most common industrial bleaching agent is
hydrogen peroxide, which is applied at pH 10.5-11 and temperatures close to the boil. Hydrogen
peroxide itself decomposes into environmentally benign compounds (water and oxygen), however
the conditions during bleaching pose a serious problem due to possible radical reactions of the
bleaching compounds with the fiber. These reactions can lead to a decrease in the degree of
polymerization and eventually to a drop in tensile strength, especially in presence of particular metal
ions which act as activators for hydrogen peroxide [3]. Additionally, alkaline conditions negatively
influence the effluent treatment, and the temperatures needed for the process impact the cost.
 Three different approaches for enzymatic bleaching have been explored. First, laccase/mediator
systems have been used successfully for bleaching of wood pulp and it could be expected that they
are applicable to bleaching of cotton as well [4], although colorant compositions in wood and cotton
differ. The major drawback of this bleaching system though is that suitable mediator compounds
have to be identified. Currently available mediators raise questions about efficiency and toxicity.
Mediators seem necessary for electron transfer to support the action of the fairly non-specific
laccases.

They are consumed during the reaction and as such not considered true catalysts. The second
possible choices for enzymatic bleaching agents are peroxidases [5]. This class of enzymes is
generally capable of activating various oxidizing agents, one of which is hydrogen peroxide. A fully
satisfactory bleaching effect, however, has not yet been accomplished with these enzymes. It is
possible that their deactivation occurs too rapidly during the bleaching process.

application of biotechnology in textile industries

The third and most promising approach is concerned with glucose oxidases [6]. These are enzymes,
like peroxidases, belong to the class of oxidoreductases. Glucose oxidases generate hydrogen
peroxide and gluconic acid from glucose and oxygen. The use of this type of enzyme for bleaching
would allow for the reuse of sugar-contaminated effluent from other wet processing steps.

Glucose oxidases were the enzymes of choice for biobleaching because, as mentioned above, they
use generated glucose from starch-desizing and bioscouring for in-situ hydrogen peroxide
production. As outlined in Scheme 1, all three wet processing steps were first performed as
individual procedures and under different conditions. It was determined that generally 500-600 mg/L
hydrogen peroxide were necessary for generating a satisfactory whiteness level. After optimization
of the separate steps regarding end-performance of the treated goods, the steps were combined.
The treatment baths of both scouring and desizing were used separately at first and the content of
glucose determined, then also combined.

To produce the necessary amount of peroxide, the available glucose and the dosage of the glucose
oxidase have to be carefully balanced. In this system, higher peroxide levels did not improve the
whiteness levels, possibly due to the stabilizing effect of the simultaneously produced gluconic acid.
With bleaching at pH 7 and peroxide solely produced by enzymatic means, whiteness indices of the
treated goods of 62-64 could be achieved, which are close to those of conventionally scoured and
bleached cotton samples (WI = 72). Absorbency and mechanical properties of the enzymatically
treated goods were excellent and the fiber damage kept to a minimum. Details of various aspects of
the process have been published and a list of these publications is provided below (Publications
Generated section). Modifications of the process are currently under way. These modifications
include the use of a pectinase stable under slightly alkaline conditions and the use of peroxidase as
biocatalyst for the action of glucose oxidase.

Removal of Neps and Seed Coat Fragments

With conventional alkaline scouring and bleaching seed coat fragments are removed.
However, undyeable neps remain a problem. Neps generally consist of flat immature
cotton fibers (Figure 2).
 Laccases from different sources were incorporated into the bioscouring process as well as after
bleaching and the mechanical impact during the treatment was increased. With this treatment it is
possible to break up seed coat fragments and reduce their numbers drastically. Neps, after dyeing
the fabric with a red direct dye and evaluated by image analysis, however still remain a challenge.

For desizing, enzymes were selected that predominantly yield glucose as degradation product of
starch-based sizes. Amyloglucosidases performed best in this aspect. Bioscouring was performed
with combinations of enzymes that are promising in regard to both goals - to significantly increase
fiber absorbency and to yield sufficient glucose from the decomposition of the non-cellulosic
impurities. Pectinases, either as the only scouring compound or applied together with other enzymes
yielded good results. Lipases supported the water absorbency. The addition of cellulase improved
the hand of the textile, but caused a higher weight loss and slight fiber peeling or cracks along the
fiber axis as typically observed with cellulase finishing procedures [3]. Nonionic surfactants were
also evaluated as admixtures. Figure 1 shows cotton fibers scoured with a blend of pectinase,
xylanase and cellulase. Skin finish by use of a combination of stones and natural cellulase. Bio-
polishing employs basically the same cellulose.

FINISHING

Biostoning and the closely related process of bio-polishing are perhaps attracting most current
attention in the area of enzyme processing. They are also an excellent illustration of how different
industry structural and market considerations can affect the uptake of enzyme technology.
Conventional stone washing uses abrasive pumice stones in a tumbling machine to abrade and
remove particles of indigo dyestuff from the surfaces of denim yarns and fabric. Cellulase enzymes
can also cut through cotton fibres and achieve much the same effect without the damaging abrasion
of the stones on both garment and machine. Disadvantages can include degradation of the fabric
and loss of strength as well as .back staining.. A slight reddening of the original indigo shade can
also occur. Now processors are learning to play more sophisticated tunes such as achieving a peach
action to remove fine surface fuzz and fibrils from cotton and viscose fabrics. The polishing action
thus achieved helps to eliminate pilling and provides better print definition, colour brightness, surface
texture, drapeability, and softness without any loss of absorbency. Bio-polishing can be used to
clean up the fabric surface after the primary fibrillation of a peach skin treatment and prior to a
secondary fibrillation process which imparts interesting fabric aesthetics. A weight loss in the base
fabric of some 3%-5% is typical but reduction in fabric strength can be controlled to within 2%-7% by
terminating the treatment after about 30 min-40 min using a high temperature or low pH. enzyme
stop. One area that still poses problems is that of tubular cotton finishing. Here, the fiber residues
 tend to be trapped inside the fabric rather than washed away.

application of biotechnology in textile industries

WOOL PROCESSING APPLICATIONS

The international wool secretariat (IWS) together with, Novo, been developing the use of protease
enzymes for a range of wool finishing treatments aimed at increased comfort (reduced prickle,
greater softness) as well as improved surface appearance and pilling performance. The basic
mechanisms closely parallel those of bio polishing. The improved enzyme treatments will allow more
selective removal of parts of the wool cuticle, there by modifying the luster, handle and felting
characteristics without degradation or weakening of the wool fiber as a whole and without the need
for environmentally damaging pre-chlorination treatment.

OTHER PROTEASE APPLICATIONS

Protease enzymes similar to those being developed for wool processing are already being used for
the degumming of silk and for producing sand washed effects on silk garments. Treatment of Silk-
Cellulosic blend is claimed to produce some unique effects. Proteases are also being used to wash
down printing screens after use in order to remove the proteinaceous gums, which are used for
thickening of printing pastes.
TEXTILE AFTER-CARE

Enzymes have been widely used in domestic laundering detergents since the 1960s. Some of the
major classes of enzymes and their effectiveness against common stains are
summarized in Table 5. Early problems of allergic reactions to some of these enzymes have now
largely been overcome by the use of advanced granulation technology.

Modern enzyme systems have reduced the use of sodium perborate in detergents by 25%
along with the release of harmful salts into the environment. However, enzymes still have to
make a corresponding impact upon the commercial laundering market. One of the problems
here has been the level of investment in. continuous-batch or tunnel washers. These typically
afford a residence time of 6 min-12 min which is not long enough for present enzyme systems
to perform adequately. More efficient methods of µenzyme kill¶ are also required because of the
extent of water recycling in modern washers.

6


Enzymes can often replace chemicals or processes that present safety or environmental
issues.
Replacing acids in the starch processing industry;
Replacing acids, alkalis or oxidizing agents in fabric desizing;
Use of enzymes in the tanneries to reduce the use of sulfide;
Enzymes replace pumice stones for ³stonewashing´ jeans. This reduces pumice and waste;
Enzymes used in animal feeds allow more complete digestion of feed leading to less animal
waste per pound gained; and

Use in laundry products as a stain remover. This allows clothes to be washed at lower
temperatures, thus saving energy. Enzymes can be used instead of chlorine bleach for
removing stains on cloth. The use of enzymes also allows the level of surfactants to be
reduced and permits the cleaning of clothes in the absence of phosphates.

Enzymes are environmental friendly, i.e. through their incorporation in detergents, washing
temperatures could be lowered, and through their incorporation in feed, more efficient use of
available resources could be obtained;

Enzymes are consumer friendly when used in detergent formulations allowing the use of less
aggressive formulations to help reduce clothing damage during washing

References:

1. W B Achwal. .Colourgae.. vol 7, no 39, 1992, p 35.

2. Li and I R Hardin. Textile Research Journal, vol 68, no 9, 1998, p 671.
3. M Hartsell and HS tech YL. Textile Research Journal, vol 68, no 4, 1998,p 233.
4. A Cavaco-Paulo and L Almeida. Textile Research Journal, vol 68, no 4, 1998,p 273.
5. A Cavaco-Paulo, J Morgado, L Almerca and D Kilburn. Textile Research Journal, vol 68, no
6, 1998, p
398.
6. Y L Hiseh and L A Cram. Textile Research Journal, vol 68, no 5, 1998, p 311.
7. M L Gulrajani, S Sen, A Soria and M Suri. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile
Research, vol 23, 1998, p 52.
8. M L Gulrajani, A Dayal and M Chakravarthy. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile
Research, vol 23, no 3, 1998, p 160.
9. R H Mehra, R Anil, Mehra and R Arun, Mehra. Textile Trends, August 1999, p 27.
10. R H Mehra, R Anil Mehra and R Arun, Mehra. Taxtile Trends, May 1999, p 33.
11. A Edwin Sunder and G Nalankilli. Asian Textile Journal, January 2002, p 53.
12. R Dashi. Asian Textile Journal, January 2002, p 76.
13. R Paul and Prakash D, Pardeshi. Textile Journal, January 2002, p 29.
14. S Pant and R Sariga. Textile Trends, May 2002, p 37.
15. W Willimott, et al. Journal of Society of Dyers and Colourists, vol 144, 1998, p 38.
16. E Abdulla, et al. Textile Research Journal 1998, vol 70, no 5, 2000, p 409.
 17. U Sayed, S K Mishra and S Rashinkar. Colourage, vol 118, no 2, 2001, p 15.
18. G E Rogers. Journal of Textile Institute, Part 3, 2002, p 24.
19. Biotechnology, edited by H J Retim and G Reed.
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