for the use and maintenanceCopyright 1954 by Necchi Sewing Machine Sales Corp. Fifth revision - June 1954 As the purchaser of a NBCCHI, the world’s finest sewing machine, you are entitled to the world’s finest service. You are certain of receiving ii, i) you get ine the habit of doing business only with authorized NECCHT dealers, all oj whom prominently display the NECCHI Sewing Circle insignia somewhere in their place of busines Te is only through authorized NECCHI dealers that you can he sure of obtaining the satisfaction to which you are entitled. as well as the assurance of prompt, courteous service, and replacement of worn out parts « tas covered by NECCIIPS guarantee bond which accom- panies cach machine sold. It is especially important that only outhorized NECCIH dealers he ealled in 10 ‘adjust or ropair your machine on ihe infrequent vc- casions when such repairs or adjustments may be needed. Furthermore, authorized NECCHI dealers carry in stock jor your convenience a complete line of sewing supplies, including NECCHL oil, needles, belts, bobbins, and other parts and accessories.» 3) 2 6) a ® 9) 10) tb P ir » B rt rr un 1 20 2 2 2a 20 2 28) FSe" yao patecion thie grained nly hans © estes tn iereone of Wa bond ead 'on » Sod teoing co 2 2, Mating Grd nde by pecae and mated oat , than fo ara, eke nosh » IikEnin shucs’ Godt 3 feces incor chess hie end and poet ° The sii w wens USEFUL SEWING OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS LIST OF CONTENTS FOREWORD LIS GF STANDARD. ACCESSORIES RECOMMENDED. NEEDLE, GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS: AND THREAD Stzie8 1 bawace Paco Oil the Machine Ty Comers Me Ty igert a Nene Chaner Needle Plate 4 Change Premer Fost Tp Drop Feed Dos To Thed the Mvehing ‘To Thread Noodle with NBECHY Nwanate Tisaier To Prepare Machine for Seeing To Ron the TT MIR Mavic To Commence Sewing To Yarn a Gian To Remove Work froth Nakina I Adj te Ten os con the Upper ion Wind the Eons Belin Th Inert Tain te bb Cave tioning of Machine 1 ith the Elsotro Current ie To Remove and Replace the Stu To Regulate Length of Stites To Tark To Baste i To Regulate With of Zig2an Svc To Change the Neclle Peston To Remove and Replace the Light Bulb Canses of Minor Dificuties ACCESSORIES ck) Straight Stites Zeta Stitch Embroidery Embroidery and Monogramming with’ Dropped Fe Making Umbeuilera Daiier Applique Work ors. Lace Edun fy Raised Stitch Applique © Contrast Work Applique a) Caerut : b) Hematitehing Ties Ege Overlock Stitch ig Zag on Raw Bilge 12 4 Thaw Ese) Narrow Straight § Fiat Felled Seams Narrow Rolled Raves Hemming and Sowing on Lave =. “Overcaae. Ww 2 ny uu rT 16 q 8 8 " 1 2‘Shell Suite Qilting 2) Stes Stich Guiting 9) Zoedae Stiteh ug oo Making Butonboles Tegular (Peal Stitch)” Baitenkale 1) Buttonhole with Cord. (Gimp) ation Sewing a Twovle Button 1) Four Hole Buttons si 2) FoorHole Buttons with Cross Stitching Daring. (Mondiny ise Diner Raine and Pleating with the Biller To Malle (Gather To Make a Raft ond sow to. Garment ‘To Mae Rullle wo Attack with Pein to Garrat To Pipe a Rule and Attach to Garment To Make’a Pleat once Reery Six Stches To Make a Peat omer Faery Twelve Stitches To Do Group Pleating ie 20) Dlindsitching (yilnt Aitachment) 2) Tarkine " 22) Adjustable Cloth Stitching Guide LIST OF AVAILABLE EXTRA. ACCESSORIFS Making of Eyelets Making Keyhle Buttonhole: Sai Catering fcding, tnd. Zippes. Opecaiions aiont Foot (Gauge ead Graned ZoeZae Stitch Hinged Foot n. ound. Swit Stich snd Embroidery Fost Fesloon Tout 5 Diindattch Foot WORKING WITH THE WONDER WilkeL NHC MATIC Placing the Discs on the NECCHEMATIC The Connecting Role <> and ¢G> Adjusting the Stitch Length Lever Diseneccine the Needle Position Lever inom the Noiehos Operating Instretens Breaking of Thread) during Sewing Sewing ‘Very ‘Thin Fabrics Maintenance ofthe NECCHI MATIC ie VARIOUS DESIGNS MADE WITH HL” NECCI MATIC ts 1) NECCHENATIC tondoxs 2) NECCHIMATIC Flowers 3) NECCHIMATIC Sealloping on Raw Hales of 4) Raiend Sain Dots 3) NECCTIEMATIC Snow Flakes SWIRL STITCHING SEWING WITH THE DOUMLE NEEL Tegular Sewing Sewing with Double Needie and: NECCHILSATICWhat your BU MIRA machine offers you Your NECCHI Model BU MIRA sewing machine is suitable for home sewing, professional dressmaking, and instructional purposes in schools. [4 performs the ‘operations of various types of special sewing machines, ‘The NECCHI v BU MIRA > machine is provided with Tight which is located just above the needle Of the machine, Due to this ideal location of the Hight the material to be sewn is always properly illuminated Morvover. the BU MIRA is equipped with a small, powerful electric motor, attached by means of a bracket to the arm of the machine, and with « transformer which is just below the motor. This motor transfor- ter combination makes it possible, by just throwing 2 switch on the transformer to the «LO» position, to run the machine al a considerably rednerd eonsiant sued for as long, a time as is desired, while the lever of the knee control, or that of the foot control, ig in u fully pressedlown position, At the same time, the aperator keeps [ull control over the speed of the rotor, for, by gradually releasing Use lever of the knee antral, oF that of the foot control, the speed of the tnachine can all be further reduced as desired. This feature is convenient for beginners in sewing who are not yet accustomed to the higher speeds of the machine, of for those who, while doing a special kind 7of work, find it of advantage to operate the machine at @ constant reduced speed for a greater length of time, By moving the ¢ SPEED > ewiteh on the trans former to the « HT» position, the machine ean he run at the highest possible speed while the lever of the motor control isin a fully pressed-down position. Heve too, by gradually releasing the lever of the motor control, the speed of the machine can be reduced as desired. ‘The BU MIRA offers also the possibility for automatic sewing with the aid of the Wonder Wheel NECCIL MATIC. This device presents to the woman the privi lege to enjoy the latest accomplishment in home sewing AUTOMATIC SEWING. Detailed instructions for using the Wonder Wheel NECCHI-MATIC are contain- ed in this booklet. These are some of the outstanding features of your BU MIRA machine: 1) Instant Control for forward and reverse sewing. 2) Simple Drop Feed Adjustment, to permit darning, embroidering, monogramming, mending and but- ton sewing. 3) Floating (hinged) Presser Foot, to. permit sewing cover pins, seams and unequal thicknesses of mate rials, thus eliminating tedious basting, 4) Snap-Out Shuttle Race, for easy cleaning 5) Automatic (self-releasing) Bobbin Winder. ©) Double Spool Pins, to permit bobbin winding while machine is in operation, 7) Oilers, protected fom getl yy steel balls, to prevent oil holes logged with lint and dust, 8) Numerically Calibratod Thread Tension, to make adjustment of thread tension simpler and to pre vent thread breakage. 9} Exclusive Third Level (intermediate) Position of Presser Foot Lever, to make darning or embrio: dery work, ole. easier by allowing presser foot to be raised without releasing tension, This third level position is the intermediate position between the highest and lowest positions of this lever. 10) Exclusive Calibrated Presser Bar Regulator, 10 climinate all guest-work as to proper pressure for various materials, Ll) Exclusive Drop-On Needle Plate, made of case- hardened stech which is quickly removed hy lifting it from Ineation posts, No removing of serews necessary to free needle plate. 12) Horizontally adjusted Feed Dog, assures straight sewing with Tittle guiding due to even grip of labric at both sides of feed dog. 13) Slide Plate, provided with three round holes to make Cireular Sewing possible. Rubber Stopper. required for eircular sewing, supplied in accessory box. Slide Plate ix simple to open and cannot be remuved accidentally. thus avoiding danger of losing or misplacing. 14) Automatic Necdle Threader, enables threading of needle in a jilly. 15) Nylon thread provided with knots, for easy clean- ing of upper thread tension. ‘The motor of the BU MIRA drives the machine by mearis of a durable belt, Speed is regulated by a knee control or foot control, depending on the user's pre ference. The BU MIRA machine is designed to be operated with AC (Alternating Current) only. Should ithe necessary to run the machine with DC (Direct Current), request special wiring of the machine from your nearest NECCHT desler. To use your NECCHL machine most elliciently, read the following sisaple instructions carefully and study the illustrations to which reference is lowing these instructions you will, step hy the machine for sewing.LIST OF STANDARD ACCESSORIES NECCHI Bax for Aecese 2 Spool Pin Extension 5 Needle Plate for Monbte Neel, 4. Needle Plate far Eimbnai dry and Darang 5 Hobhins Gi & Sure De 7 8 Plastic 0} Stonper tow Circular 10 nvedupy wily Kewted Nylon Thread. 11 Double Needle 12 Sema, Ripper and Rat: tonhole Custer with lal 14 Straight Guide with 2 6 % W e ” Ziecg Indes Stap Plate Necille Threader with re sare Hook, Case ith sa Newle s [Brush (for eleanany parts) Roller and Pl Darning Presser Foot Quilter W with clamp. 1 for sein Je slotted hinder Foot for Double Cuide tor Blinding, romhele Presser Poot Screw and Index ‘Za Winged Root with wei Beitom for Satinand Thread Sizes Recommended Needle (NECCHI machines uso 15x1_ needles) . " ” x Sise of Thread Bien of Types af Fabries and Classes of Work cote ee aE Nereis) ; , 109 & w Nery thin fabrics ike Musin, Gants Chiflon, Bai os 9 Litas amine, or fpr et wr dl oe io, aed ath Lightowcight Shirting and cum: ies, Linen a ° oo oe ik Coos and Calves, For chilern's and house dresses to to jum Sesh 100 ee 0 ine) Washable cotton dresses, aprons and curtains. ASB rm ‘Twist (Medium Shirtings: Sheetings, Calicors, Dress Silke and Cottons, light wveight Woolens, Draperies, ete, For general houschold cewina fed all classes of general work. wee Heavy Galicoes and Sill light weight Woolen, heayy Cretonnes 0 e Mary. ws fadras, Muslin, Brocades and’ Quilts. Ror men’s work shitts to ee “i Light mocks and aprons, quilting and Tobie furnishings. “0 sia ce! Heavy) Bed Tickiner, Unholtry and Awning Matera Sip Cover x ® Fabra Warden Cooter Beary oven Coating ht” weit ® D Heavy (edie Canas, For mouse Boe eng, work ennui, mings ‘o Twit Date eee) slip covers sad imattresses Fea wi Vora nen ee Sucania Gs ma fore ie oo re “4 ® » rec eee fake seer Bem sane = an) es, ee (Extra For heavy goods, coarse cloths, Canvas, Rags, et oe, f Heavy) < a aseGENERAL INS IMPORTANT After unpacking, aud before using the sewing machine, clean it thoroughly with » soft rag (or soft brush), then oil it with a good quality, light sowing machine oil, as suggested in Gencral Instruction No. 2. (see below). 1, TO INSURE PERFECT FUNCTIONING OF MACHINE a) Balance Wheel always be turned toward the ‘operator, ¥! nated by hand or motor. b) Do not operate machine with p on feed dog, unless there: is loth ©) Keep a small piece of cloth underneath px foot whenever machine is not in use. TI prevent damage to feed dog and presser foot. ser [ool resting, ner pressor foot will 4) Do not operate sewing machine when presser foot lever is raised 4) Do not try to help feeding by pulling fabric, since this action will bend needle. "The machine auto matically feeds the fabrie without assistance, f) Keep slide plate closed when operating machine. 2. TO Ol THE MACHINE Use good quality. light sewing machine oil, as rece mended by your NECCHI dealer. ‘Yo insure easy and trouble-free running, the machine requires oiling. If used coutinuously, it should be viled every day. For intermittent use (once oF twice 4 werk), oil it about once a week. It is nol necessary tw flood the machine with oil. If ollod rogularly, one or two drops of oi in each oil hole will suffice. 4) The pointer in Fig. 3 indicate the small oil holes into which one drop of oil should he put whenever the machine is used. b) Remove serew at upper portion of face plate (ceo Fig. 2), remove. face plate, and put one drop of cil into each of Ue oil holes and joints (see fiz. 3a). Replace face plate and screw and tighten it firmly ¢) Tilt the machine back on its hinges, so that the underside is accessible, and apply a drop of oil to all oiling, points indicated in Fig. 4 by pointers, uTo clean and oil the shuttle bed. use an oil-soaked rag. In replacing, oil the rim only of the shuttle (hook. gt oe | | ow Or or OOF 1 OO CAUTION: Make certain that your electric power line, carries AC (Alternating Current) and that its voltaze jn ten volts of Tisted on your motor, Jay connector plug fully into the cor of the transformer (soe Fig le plug at the end of the extension ed into the wall outlet LUTION: When you have finished sowing, always toake certain to puss the LIGHT switeh on the trans former to the « OFF » pos Insert the three 4) Bring needle to its highest position by turning balanee wheel toward. you. 4) Loosen needle clamp by Loo- sening needle clamp screw (Fig. 6) and insert new needle (with flat side of the need shank toward the right) into groove of needle bar +) Push needle up into groove as far as il will go, then tighten firmly ncedle clamp serew with to bend needle nedle har. Bo careful when insert Ww5 TC a) Teaise presser foot by rai fuot lever (Fig. 2). 1b) Move slide plate ©) Lift up needle plate (Fig. 7) and move it to the left, thus freeing it from its locating screws « A>. d) Slide new noedle plate toward the right, under screw « B », and place holes in needle plate over top of two locating screws «A» in bed plate ©) Move slide plate toward the right to close it, ig presser 2) extreme 6, TO CHANGE PRESSER ww) Bring needle to its on by tarning 4) Raise presser foot hy raising presser foot lever. @) Loosen presser foot thumb screw. 4) Move presser foot to the left, as far as thumb screw has heen loosened, then, by bringing the fool down. remove it {rom the presser foot bar, 4) Slide grooved portion of new presser foot up on w presser foot har, press it against bar and tighten presser foul thuml sevew securely with serew driver. 7. , 4) Pull out slide plate as far as possible (Fig. 8) 2) To lower the feed dog « B >, prose down lever < A » completely. This will permit yon to feed the fabric freely by hand while you axe following the embrot dery design or monogram outline, or while cover ing the portion of the article to be darned. ‘The feed dog m be lowered for sewing on but- tons To raise the feed dog, bring up lever «A» com pletely ' Fie. 8 8 To i y To provent breaking of the upper thread, itis essential to thread the machine as described below jon by turning, needle to its highest posi ' balance wheel toward you. 4) Place spool of thread on spool pin « H.», then pull the thread from the spool and run it over the upper arm thrend guide «S2 (Fig, 9). wa Draw thread down. then insert it from right to left in slot of tension disc housing «U» (Thread Tension Knob). Bring the thread up and then down over the thread take-up (check) spring «D>. Bring the thread downward under the thread guide tension arm ¢ F'>, pass it through the slot « F » and then upward throuzh the guide hook «. raw the thread upward and guide it, from right to left, through the eyelet «I> of the thread bike. up lover, Pull thread down and lead it again through the guide hook «G>. 4) Draw thread into slot ¢ K» between machine arm tind face plate «Lx, then pull it toward the left lui it slides behind the pin « M> (which is visible in the slot ¢K >) and comes out below the face plate «L>, 1) Pass the thread end through the needle clamp thread guide «N> and finally, guide it from left to right through the eye of the needle « Ox, 1) Pall thread through needle eye, leaving about four inches of free thread hanging down from needle, 9.10 THREAG E NECC TO! 1 ER (See Figs, 10. (and) for reference) 4) Take needle thresder Itween thumb and forefinger of right hand (Fig. 10) and place it against nordle so that needle fits in groove «B> (Fig. 10a) anduppermost portion of plastic body «A> (Fig. 10a) foueles the underside of the needle clamp (Fig. 10b). Slip spring jaws (Fig, 10a) over the threader slightly against needle until threader hook «D> (Fig, 10a) passes through cye of needle (Fig, 10). 5) With thumb and forefinger of left hand, pass thread under the threader hook and hold it there under tension (Fig. 10). ©) Gently swing needle theeader upwards. (see arrow Fig. Wei, then draw it away from the noedle (Fig. 10d), The threader hook will draw the thread through the eye of the needle Each NECCHI Needle ‘Thre spare hook which can be e breakage of the original hook. lelivered with & inted in ease of 10. G 4) Hold end of nvedle thread with Ieft hand so that thread remains loose, 4) With right hand, turn balance wheel you until needle goes down and up again to its highest position. ‘This will eause the bobbin thread to be eaught by the needle thread. wwly toward ¢) Now, by drawing the upper thread hy hand. the lower thread will be pulled up through the stitch hole of the needle plate, x= shown in Fig. 11 4d) Place the ends of threads, away from you, under: neath the presser foot. Plice material between presser foot and needle plate, and lower the presser foot. The machine is now ready for sewing. CAUTION threaded, to make ecstain that the presser foot is down. and that there is fabrie between presser foot ancl needle plate. Failure to obsetve this precaution may cause the threads to get tangled underneath the need late, jam the hook (shuttle) and daiaye or break the a It is of importance, once the machine ix 4 4) Throw the ¢ LIGHT» switeh_ on the transformer (Fig. 5) to the © ON» position and leave it in this position while the machine is in use. When the « LIGHT > switch is at the «ON» post tion, a red signal light (coe Fig. 12) will appear at the lower portion of the faceplate, indicating that the sewing machine is wow under current. This red signal Tight will glow as long as the CLIGHT > switeh is at the «ON > position, See whether the «SPEED» switch on the trans: former (see Fig. 13) is at the «HI or «LO» position and throw this switch to the position which you desire. By presing against lever of motor control (knee etmical foot cootrol) the speed of the wachine ‘ean he increased as desired. When «SPEED » switch is on », the machine will only reach a certain reduced speed, even if the lever is in a fully pre Teasing: the control lever, can he reduced still further speed of the machine desired. PeFig. 12 2) When you have finished your sewing work, throw the switch to the ¢ OFF» position. This will automatically diseonncet the motor of the machine from the electric current, + If sewing conditions make the builtin light essary, it can he cut with finger the shade wh controlled by. the knurled button A (see fig. 29a) wader the face pla The red signal light, however, will continue to (Pig. 2 Ki simply by moving 12. To @) Place fabriv between presser foot and noodle plat b) Lower presser foot by pus down. presser foot lever ©) Tam balance wheel toward you until takeup lever at highest point and act machine in motion by pushing knee « «t) Mold both thiesds with left hand, for about three or four stitches, to prevent tangling of the threads, or clogging of the hook (shuttle) foot control) e) You may now proceed with sewing as you see fit 13, a) Slow down machine and stop it at desired point while needle is still in the fabric 5) Raise presser foot by lifting presser foot lever, then revolve fabric around necdle as desired. €) Lower presser foot and proceed. with s¢ 14 10 4) Turn halance wheel toward you until take-up lever reaches its highest position. 6) Raive presser foot by raising presser foot lever to highest lew ©) Draw fabrie back (away from you) about four inches, d) Cut threads and remove material. 15. To ADJU 4) When tensions of needle thread and bobbin thread are properly adjusted, stitches on both sides of fabric will look alike (Fig. 14), Both threads will be locked in the center of the fabric thickness, and no adjustment is meHf tension of needle thread is too tight, or of bobbin thread is ton lowe, then nelle trred Pill lie fat on top of fabric and bobbin thread sat be pulled up to upper surface, being visible thas in form of small knots (Fig. 15) To correct this condition, make certain that the presser foot is down, then turn Tension Regulates Knob (Fix. 16) t0 the left. . Make several stitches to check whether needle thread fonsion is correct, and, if necessary, adjust furtioe by turning Regulating Knob, 1 tension of needle thread is too loose, oF tension of bobbin thread ix 100 tight, bobbin thread. wal lie straight along underside of fabric and needle thread will be pulled down to underside, being sible there in form of loops or small knots (Fig. 17). To correct this condition, make cer. tain that the proscer foot is down, then turn Regu: lating, Knob to the right Make several stitches to check whether needle thread and, if necessary, adjust further lating Knob, tension is eorreet by turning R 16. TO CLEAN THE UPPER TENSION For cleaning the upper tension and removing lint, ditt for any bits of thread that may have become lodged etween the discs, the string of nylon thread should be used (as contained in envelope to be found in ace cessory box) which will make it possible to clean the tension within. a few seconds, Proved as follows: @) Insert nylon thread into slot of upper shown in Fig.5) Pass thread forward and backward several times, in different directions, so that the knots of the thread, while passing between the discy (Figs Top, can remove any dirt or hits of thread, IE it becomes necessary to take the upper tension apart this should de done hy an experienend sewing muchiog moelanie 17. TO WIND THE EMPTY BOBBIN IMPORTANT: It is necessary to understand the junc- ion of the «Stop Motion > by means of which the balance wheel can be disconnected from the sewing mechanism, when required, thus permitting, winding of the bobbin without sewing, vonmect balance wheel ¢ Bo (Fig sewing, mechanism hy holding wheel with left hand and turning stop motion knob «D> toward you with right hand, until knob feels loose, 2) Place spool of thread on the bed plate, then lead it along the rear portion of the NECCHI MATIC and finally wind « few turns of thread by hand un bobbin from front to back. 20) from Fix, 20 d) Place bobbin on spindle: « >, as far as it will go. €) Press lever ¢Z> forward and puch knee control (or step ou foot control), running machine at me dium speed to fill the bobbin. Bobbin Winder will automatically stop when bobbin is full fi To prevent uneven winding of thread on bobbin, loosen serew «V> and move thread guide « either from right to left, or from left to right, as required, then tighten screw «V >. Hf bobbin winds too full, without being stopped automatically, force down lever «Zs, so that it will tench slightly below the ri of the bobbin. 8) 4) Hf not sufficient thread is wound on bobbin, force up lever «Z» past natural stopping point, then press it forward and pusl) kave control, running machine at medium speed 18, TO INSERT BOBBIN INTO BOBBIN CASE a) With left hand, hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger in such a way that the slot in the edge of the bobhin case is on top and ils open side frces to right, as shown in ig. 21 \d forefinger of right de from left to right, 4) Hold bobhin hewwoen thumb a hand. s0 that Uread on tops le as shown in Fig. 21 ) Insert hobbin into be 1 bobbin from {urning by holding lateh with thumb of left hand. and with right hand pull thread into slot of in ease, preventHotbin case, ws shown in Fig. 22: then draw ib under the tension spring ond up two the end. of the teusion spring (Fi f 8), leaving about four inches of loose thread. | f Fig 2 4) Raise presier foot by raising preser foot lever 8) Dring needle up to its highest position by turvsag balance wheel toward yom "4 ©) Move slide plate of machine all the nay to the left 4) Lift latch of bobbin case (F ig. 24) with thucb and forefinger of left hand, and remove babbin cnc by pulling it toward the left and ut ofthe machines ©) The bobbin will drop out when the open end of the bobbin ease is held downward and the latch ve Permitted to snap back into place. Raice presser foot by raising presser foot lever Bring needle up to ils highest position, by turning balance wheel toward you. Move slide plate of machine all the way to the left. Invert bobbin into hobhin case (See Instruction page 29) With thumb and forefinger of left hand, take bob. bin case (into which full bobbin has been inserted) by the latch and plave it on the eontcr stud of the shuitle (hook). The position finger of thy bobbin top of the race plate fateh and press bobbin ease into shuntl (hook) as far as it will go. Leave about four hes of loose thread hanging down. rush slide plate to right, closing itFig. 25 a. Sig machine balance wheel) torn heavily oF jam lightly, It may be due to piece of loose thread wii has hoet: caught between shuttle (hook) aad. shale fate. To correct this eondition, proceed rarefully as a) Bi 5) Tilt machine back on its hinges, so that underside is in full view. ad see Instruction, page s «Z> (Fig. 26) by swinging them left hand, remove race plate tt away from the rave, » ‘@) Remove shuttle (hook) «It» by gripping its cemer sind with thumb and forefinger of left hand pulling ft to the left. ‘This leaves the shuttle race free for cleaning. fy Remove lint and pieces of thread with a small (paint for pastry) brash, put a drop of ol into the race, ttle (hock) 2) To replace shuttle (hook). insert it into race with thuab and forefinger of left hand, fitting it into, are opposite the shuttle carrier without forer. it race plate « T > onto the two smull studs « G snap pins «Z» back into place i) Insert be struction, page 31), then position, w (See Fig. 27) a) Release thumb serew ¢A> by turning it toward the left 4) Set lever «Rs below the ator moves to desired stiteh longth on scale (No. 1 is the shortest stiteh: No. 4 is the longest Normal stitch length is No. 2) until indi©) Tighten thumb screw « A» the right. This ineurcs tame len forward und reverse sewing, turning it towand wth of stitch for Big, 2 (« Tacking » ing for 1 ck backward and forward stitche emeat and finishing of seams) ve Fig. 27) 4) Regulate length of stitch I bof stitch (see Instruction, pag 4) ‘Tighten thumb serew « A ele By nub serew « A>, thus locking loves « hotween indicators «Cs and ¢ Dee SB? ©) Bring lever down ae far ae EDs, Lowes teeard. lower indieator d) Maise lover < Bs Hale Bo» as far a6 upper indieator ou @) Bring lever « B » (Fig. 27) down ar ar a» possible J) Loosen top tension slightly by se eator (Fig. 16) betw This makes possible a long loose stiteh that can be easily removed. tension inl zero and ¢3 To {See Fig. 27) ag, stiteh I ale fred width of stitch. If lever Yoosen thumb serew « at extreme right, and narrowest stitcl with dag stitch lover ¢R> on zero. 2%, TO CHANG (See Fix. 27) Change position of needle by setting, Needle Position Lever aP> fn left notch, center notch or right notch, fs required for the type of work to be do Should it ever ho nececeary tw replace the light bulb, proceed as follows: 1) Loosen completely screw « So (Fig uove face plate «1.3 of machine, Thi free access to the lamp holder « P> (F Carefully remove old light bulb < Bo (Fig. 2 by pulling it. together with its shade, downward fand out of the lamp holder «Px. Uf necessary spread slightly the wall portion « I> of the ksmp holder to make removal of the light bulb, easier Remove old bulb from shade and ineert new bulb. In both cases a slight effort must be exerted on the end of the bull. Insert new light bulb and sts and press slightly against wall portion light bull iu lamp holder. into lamp holder Ry to secure firm fit of6) Make ¢ «L» and attach it toma screw €S firmly lain to use only NECCHI light bulbs weching @B. CAUSES OF MINOR DIFFICULTIES Needle (Upper) Thread Breaks May Le due to following reasons I) Needle is inserted incorrectly 2) Neeille thread is improperly. threaded 8) Needle thread tension is too tight. 4) Needle thread is of wrong quality for material being used. 5) Needle thread has knots G) Noodle eye is rough or ebarp. 7) Point of needle is damaged (hent over) or blunt 8) Stitch hole in novdle plate is rough or charp. 9) Needle is too fine for thrend in use 10) Machine is started at full spe TN) Machine is started with thread take-up lever not in highest position, 12) Bobbin case has rough spot due to heing hit and damaged by needle 13) Shuttle (hook) has rough or sharp spot Needle Breaks May be due to following reasons: 1) Pulling fabric to or from you in such 2 manner that needle strikes needle plate 2) Insullicient pressure om presser f 8) Needle is bent or has blunt point Bobbin (Lower) Thread Breaks May be due to following reaso 1) Bobbin thread tension is 2) Bobbin is wound unevenly 3) Bobbin full 4) Dirt or lint Skip Stitches May be due to following reasons 1) Neodle is inserted incorrectly 2) Needle is bent or blunt, 3) ‘Thread is too heavy for size of noedle 4) Needle is of wrong size for material being used 5) Insullieient pressure on presserUneven Stitches May be due to followin 1 3) Feed dog set too low. : ; 1) Pulling tabrie mtead of allowing it ich is too short fine a needle with Heavy Turning or Jamming of Machine (Balance Whee!) May be duc to a loose piece of thread whiel has h come wedged between shuttle (hook) andra Instruction, IMPORTANT It is possible that, after considerable of the parts inside or indernct yout in aout of adjust, by refering t© bring your achive inv working mee oo to obiain a perfect seam, do wot tey to ropa the ma chine. yoursell. Call for your cal NECCH ey machine dealer. Mle has’ exelent faites ‘and te ted to bring your machine USEFUL SEWING ACCESSORIES Needles — Proper sizes (or all types of wotk (See Recommended Needle and Thread Sizce on Paves 12 nil 1, Scissors Assorted izes for vations uses Sewing Chair — Comfortable to sit on. Has com. partment to hold sewing, supplies Thimbles ee For ‘protection ‘of tingers and spoedy Tape Measures — Made of durable naterial, in dif erent colors, with distinet: numerals. an Presser foot not resting evenly (fully) upon fabric, Tracing Wheels — For quick tracing of patterns. Available also with needle point wheels Skirt Marker — For easy marking of hems Hlectric Bulbs — Have spare bulb on hand, to be certain your sexing light is always in good order. ll — Only first quality special oil should be used for your sewing machine (my heavier oil that No, 20) Pinking Shears vents raveling of edge of material Press Cloth garment Press Mit Sleeve Board — To simplify the operation of pres sing sleeves and collars (toy these sapplics tom your Auhorized NECCM Deals) neat inside finish and pre To aid in pressing seams and finished To aid in pressing shoulder seams and OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS Byery NECCHI Model BU MIRA Machine is furnished with a Standard Zig-Zag Stitch Needle Plue and Zi Zag Stitch Hinged Foot, with which the user of the ‘machine can perform: ¢} Fancy and Embroidery Sewing, Appliqueing and Monogramming d) Button Sewing f). Herring, ) Blindstitching Ay Circular Sewing Special accessories (sce pages 10 and 11), for special kinds of work, arc furnished with the machine. ‘The ‘ypeopriate special accessory should he used when cuntinuows work y of these special Lines has tobe done. For the sake of simplicity in the following explanations. it is assumed that for any of the dese hod sevsing operations the Standard Zig-Zig Stitch Neealle Plate and Zig-Zag Stitel Hinged Font ave used fon the machine. 0Should it be desired, to do straight stitching only, the aforementionet needle plate anc presser foot may be repliced with « Straight Needle’ Plate and Straight Stitel: Hinged Foot which are also furnished with the machine. In this ease the needle position lever (sce Fig. 30) must be set in the left notch 1. STRAIGHT STITCH (See Fig. 39) Machine Setting: Needle Position Lever: In left notch, ZigeZag Sutch Lever: Loosen Index Stop Serew and move it (together with Zig-Zag Stitch Lever) to extreme left, then tighten Iadex Stop Serew firm! Stitch Length Lever: Set for desined Stitch length Commence sewing as you see ft Stitch Lever Regulating Lever 40 2, ZIG-ZAG STITCH (Ser Fig. 30) Machine Setting: Needle position Lever: Iw veuter noteh, FigLoy Stitch Lever: Sct tor desired stitch width Stitch Lengik Lever: Set for desived stitch length Commence sewing as you soe fit. 3, EMBROIDERY a) To make «satin stitch » Fig. 31 MAMI it naira tt Machine Setting: Vie a Needle Position Lever: In center notch, Fighag Stiich Lever: Set for desired stitch widths Sitch Length Lever: Set as lose to zern mark as possible and still allow material to feel (threads must hot pile up. Threads: Use No. 30 for upper thread and No. 50 for lower thread Thread Tensions: Use fairly lvoe upper tens (between <0» and 2s) and rather tight lower tension. Upper thread should lay flush on upper fide of fabric. and part of it be also visible on lower side of fabric. Lower thread should appear on, uu deride of fabric as a seam which is almost strnight Presser Foot: Use Minged Grooved Salin Stitch Foot (No. A. 24/134, PROCEDURE: Commence: sewing, Follow above pro- eedure for all fancy embroidery work in which the <¢satin slits» in the buse stitch for all straight run ning, embroidery designs 'b) To make design Fig. 52 Moat tna joe yr ma Machine Setting: Fig. 32 Noeille Position Lever: In center notch. Siitch Length Lever: Set for « satin slitch » Upper Tension: Same as for «atin stitch »Procedure: Commence sewi er quickly from «1» to« Repeat operation as long as desired. The jth of design depends on the speed at which the vigszag stitch lever is operated ¢) To make design Fig. 33 ca uc aay ii Machine Setting: Fis, 83 Needle Position Lever: In center noteh, Suteh Length Lever: Set for ¢ satin stitch Upper Tension: Same nx for satin slitch Procedure: Commence sewing, and me rigvvay sth lever slowly from to <4. then quickly fp lover back tu «>. Repeat 1 a The length of design, deyer ation as long ax desi the zig-zaz stitch lever is eed at wig ' Machine Setting: Fig. 3 Zigcbag Stitch Levers Set between «1» and « Stitch Length Lever: Set for eatin stitch >. Upper Tension: Sam as for ¢ ulin stitch » Procedure: Commence sewing, and shift needle pose tion lever continuously and smoothly from left noteh to Fight noteh, and back to left n the center notch cntirely. Rep h again, by-passing , ich ently. epeat operation as desired. The length of design depends un the at which the needle position lever ic operate! ) To make design Fig. 35 : i wn lt LN Machine Setting: F Needle 2 Set for « sat as for « sal Stich Length Lev Upper Tension: Sa Procedure: Commence sewing, sod move zig-rag stitch lexer slowly from ¢ 1 » to <4 and back to ¢1» aga Continue operation in an even thythm as | ted, ‘The length of design depends Which the zig-zag stitch lever f) To make design Fig 36 Smile WN oe Is Machine Setting: Sitch Length Lever: Set for « Upper Tension: Save as for «satin stitch » position lever in left notch and Zigaag stitch lever hetween ¢ 1 Gommence sewing and move neelle Teft notch to center notch, then to the Leave needle position lever in right notch While machine is running, move zig-zag stiteh lever lo @4>. Sew al this position for desired length, then to between ¢L> and ¢2 stitch » vsilion lever from it notch, Ie rigetag, stitch lover b Repeat operation hy moving needle position lever frc ight notch to center notch, then to left notch, 9) To make design Fig. 37 Machine Setting: dle Position Lever: In left notch Zig Lae Stitch Lover: Sot at «2 Siiteh Length Lever: Set for satin stitch » Upper Tension: Same as for satin stitch ». Procedure: Commence sewing, and move needle posi fion lever to center notch, then to right notch, and hack again, using all three notches. ‘The length of Aesiga depends on the speed at which the needle posi tion lever is operated, and on the time during whieh it is permitted to remain in each notchh) To make design Fig, 38 Ho iol ile Machine Setting: Needle Position Levers Zigtag Stitch Lever Stitch Lengch Lever: Upper Tension; Same In conter Set at «1». « sulin stiteh >. ‘satin stiteh >. Procedure: Commence then flip. zi ich to desired ag stitch lever to «b>, Stitch decired length. then tip zig-zam stitch lever back to «Ls. Re Peat operation. The length of design depends on the time the machine is permitted to stitch at cach setting } of the zig-zag stitch love The above illustrations show only a few of the many different designs that you ean make eacily j _ lille practice. with your BU MIRA Mach, using: simultaneously the needle position lever and the vig 2ig stitch lever. After a short while of practice with these levers, you will be maki fter only YE your wn individual 4. EMBROIDERY AND MONOGRAMMING WITH DROPPED FEED NOTE; Silk, Nylon or mercerized thread are generally used! for thi Machine Setting: Needle Position Lever Zig Lag Stitch Lever Sitch Leng Upper Tension Procedure: J @) Rem by Ds ie embroidery rk In center notch. Set for des Lever: Se red width, fe presser foot, » Feed do } Clamp the fabric e instruction, page 19) whieh the design to be on deved has been marked, in. the wp in the following manner: Place fabric, right side } er (outer) ring of the design is ahout in the center of the hoop), then Bele (rare) ring of ensroxtry hoop ape fabric and press it with the fabric into the outer ring which is underueath the fabric @) Place hoop with fabric underneath needle (see Fig. 39) €) Bring presser foot lever down to its lowest position fp Hold Woop and cede thread with left hand, then with right hand, turn balance wheel slowly toward you and bring lover theead up through fabric in ibe hep, : © While still holding both threads and hoop in left Be ing right bond down to boop and stat machine running at low epee lo hoop slowly in steady rhythm with movements af needle, It will require some practice until you bevome skilled the various designs. in followix 5. MAKING EMBROIDERED DAISIES * *¥ K * * * NOTE: When making above design, clamp fabrie in embroidery hoop, as explained in provedling chapter, 6Machine Setting: Needle Position Lever: In rigth notch, Lig-Lag Stitch Lever: Set at «4 Stitch Leigth Lever: Any position, Upper Tension: Same wx for « satin stitch Procedure: a) feed! dog. (seo instruetion, page 19), hoop with fabric underneath presser foot ©) Lower presser foot and start design, taking 3 or 4 stitches. d) Turn balanee wheel stowly by hand toward you until needle is in fabric on left side of stitching ) Raise presser foot slightly and, using needle as a pivot, tur fabrie eounter-clockwiee, about 1, of an inch from the previous stitching 1) Lover pressor foot and wiake 3 or 4 more stitches Continne peration, always pivoting around the lel side of the stitches 6 APPLIQUE WoRK veral kin a) Lace Edging Machine Setting: Needle Position Lever: In venter notch Zig-tag Stitch Lever: Ser for desired width, Stuteh Length Lever: Set for desired length Upper Tension: Normal This includ Procedure: Raise presser foot and place lace edeing to the el Uf the fabrie te which it will be stitched. aud commence se ng. snaking © le, while zig-zaguing, goes through both fabric and lace b) Raised Stitch Applique Decorative Cord Stiteh) By doing this type of work. is being covered with Fig, 41 Machine Setting: Needle Position Lever: In center notch, Zig Lay Stitch Lever: Set width of rigerag stitch in 0 cord (pearl votton No. 5) zag stitches, as shown in dance with thickness of e« Stitch Length Leber: Set for « satin stitch Upper Tensions Same as for « satin stiteh wed foot and b foot, then pull Procedure: Remove sig ng stiteh stitch cording foot to press altuel zig Insert cord into hole in base of cordi it, from front to back, through the hol afterwards underneath the pre Commence sewing, running the machine low the design earefully until you have } customed to guiding, the + foot ¢) Contrast Work Applique Machine Setting: Same ox for « Raised Stitch que », with the exception of the Stitch Length which is set at any desired forward position. . This type of work i essentially the kame a « Raised Stitch Applique ». To obtain the desired ¢ contrast » the color of the cord is different from the color of the needle thread ‘The sewing procedure for Contrast Work is the same as for Raised Stitch Applique, with the exception that for Contrast Work the zig.rag stitches are spaced wider apart so as to oblain the pleasing contrast of the colors of cord and nccile thread.4) Cut-Out Work Machine Setting: Same as for « satin cttch » In doing this type uf work, first baste a piewe of the material, on which the design (lover, eles) is aketehel or printed, to the arti ment. ete.) to which it will be sein. ‘Then place both, design and’ arvile esser foot aud embroider along the « Having finished the embroidery work, tak sors and cut away the surplus of the ms © to the outline uf the desi ine rial as close The design is thus permanently attached tothe article 7. HEMSTITCHING 2) Hemstitching with Drawn Threads (Fig, 42) Machine Setting: edle Position Lever ZiesLag Sitch Lever «i> » Stitch Length Lever: Upper Tension: In center notch. Set for narrow width (between Rotween ¢1¥ and «29, Normal. Procedure: Draw desired number of threads from ar icle to he henelitched. Place fabric under presser foot, low the presser foot and commence sewing. Make certain that the needle bites > alternately close to the edge into the undsaes side of the fabric, and then into the space where the ead: have been drawn, Ailer the stitching on one side of the drawn spa been finished, complete the lenslitehing by repeating same procedure on other side of drawn space. e has b) Hemstitching - Picot Edge (Fig. 43) of hemstiteching is best done on organdy, or of sheer materials, ‘This kin other kind Machine Setting: Verdle Position Lever: In ceuter uotch, Zigctug Stitch Lever: Set for nareow width (between els and ¢2>. Stitch Length Lever Upper Tension: Normal. Needle: Use Sine No. 2 Between ¢0> and «La. : - place also fot iowa Procedure: Place ch de sketched or printed, under presser foot, the applique, to be attached, under the Herre renee fat eel eomicn sewing outline of design (on fabric or applique’. With sharp seiscors, cut away surplus of material of applique all around design, very elose to the stitch_—_— - Place fabric with attached ippli set fot ad ke cra th dle tile into right side (outer) hole of fit row of tezoe a ches. “Running ‘machine slowly. sew all arcu ape am Trolobsin a « PICOT EDGES, eu with sharp seiors belieen sows of heeching Machine Setting: Needle Position Lever: Iu eenter notch, Zisotag Stich Levert Any desited wid Stitch Length Lever: Auy desited length Upper Tension: Norroal Procedure: (: the raw fabie by «biting », elose to the raw ed open space and then into the fabri king cortain that of the imo the zag, stitch will < encase » 9% NARRO STITCH HEM (Fig. 45) Fig 6 Machine Setting: Needle Position Lever: In center notch. Fig-Tag, Stitch Lever: Mt extreme left. Siiteh Lengih Lever: Between «3.> aud «4 Upper Tension: Normal. Presser Foot: Remove zig-zag stitch hinged foot and attach straight stitch narrow hemmer foot lo presser har. Leave hemmer foot in raised position. Procedure: Fold over edge of fabric about one-eighth of an inch, the fold from be: tongue (scroll) of the foot. This seroll turns in the edge of the fabric and forms the het Move fabric back and forth carefully until hem forms itself in ecroll, then pull fabric toward you until its tnd is just helow the needle Guide foot and commence sewin