Procedure: While lowering presser foot, place button between presser foot and fabric s0 that holes of button aro in line with zig-zag stitch. ‘Turn balance by hand slowly toward you so that needle goes through left hole of button. Continue turning, balance wheel by hand, making ccr- tain that needle enters right hole of button properly and does not hit button. If needle does not clear button, change throw of needle by readjusting zig-zag stitel lever Run machine at medium speed, making about five to six stitehes. Bring, rig-ray, stitch lever few straight zag stitch and thus prevent unraveling), NOTE: Buttons may also be sewed on with the aig: zag stiteh hinged Toot, by following the same procedure extreme left, amuking a tues in the same holes (to tie np zig- b) Four-Hole Buttons with Parallel-Stitching Machine setting and procedure are the same as for sewing, on ¢ Two-Hole » Button Alter stitching between first two holes of button, lift button sewing foot slightly and move fabric under neath foot to line up remaining twa holes with needle then stitch between second pair of holes (Fig. 59). a ¢) Four-Hole Buttons with Cross-Stitehing Machine setting and procedure are the same as for sewing on « Tio-Hole » Buttons, After stitching between frst two holes of button, lift Dutton sewing foot slightly, then turn fabric at a right ‘angle so that remaining twa holes are in proper position tuner the needle. Proceed to stitch between remaining two holes (see Fig. 60), then bring the zig: th lever to the extreme left, making « few straight stitches thron; the same hole. 17. DARNING (MENDING) Machine Setting: Needle Position Lever: In center notch. Lig-hug Stitch Lever: Move to extreme left Uren Tension: Normal ‘ : Peet Dost ‘To be dropped (ace instruction, page 1) ePresser Foot: Remove rigerag stitch hinged foot and attach darning foot to presser foot har. Needle Plate: Remove zig-zag, stitch needle plato and replace it with darning needle plat. Sewing Thread: Use: thread suitable for article to be darned. Procedure: Place portion of fabric, 10 be darned, under darning foot and lower the foot (se Fig. 61), Commence sewing (starting just at the omtside edge of the hole) and sew across the hole, moving the fabric from left t0 right, and from right to left, until. the Hole is filled with parallel fines of stitches (see Fig, 62) Next, starting again nt the edge of the holo, mave the fabrie gradually forward and backward until the first lines of stitehes are fully covered crosswise with the other lines of stitches, as shown in Fig, 63. The hule is then fully darned Darning can also he done with the regular rig-mng stitch hinged foot and zig-zag. stitch nerdle plate. by following the same procedure as described above, after the feed dog has been dropped below the needle plate. 6 NOTE: If larger holes have to be darned, it is a sable to keep the fabrie stretched hy elamping it in fan embroidery oop. This hoop ean be purchased from your NECCHT Dealer. : Am excellent means for darning toes ancl heels on ladiew stockings, men’s socks, etc., is the NECCHL Stocking Darner which is also obtainable at your local NECCHT Dealer 18, BIAS BINDER (Fig. 64) Machine Setting: Needle Position Lever: In left notch, Zag Sitch Lever: For straight stitch binding: mowr to extrome left. For rig-rag. stitch binding: set to desired width. but ral lciee Wain eS oy elie. adhere vendo wil hil not Jarger than «3 » finder and break. Stitch Length Levees Sct at desired length Upper Tension: Normal Prever Foor. Remove gt atch Hinge fot and attach Bias Binder to presser foot barProcedure: Use size No, 5 unfolded its end to a slender point (sec Fig. 65) so thut it can be drawn through the scroll in the hinder. By using a long, strong pointed pin, the binding can be dravn more easily through the scrall of the binder toward the nevdle. Now sew for a few inches to de termine the setting of the binder at the edge of the binding Fig. 65 After the binder liay been properly adjusted, to. hav the stitches on the binding placed where desired, insert the fabric tw be bound between both halves of the inder scroll (see Fig. G1). Keep the fabric well in wet, close to the needle. This is a point to be sf especially on small scallops or curved edges. Use the third finger of the left hand for this work and note how simply a curve can be bound while the finger rests on the fabrie ahove the apron of the hinder 19%. RUFFLING AND PLEATING WITH THE RUFFLER Fig. 66 indicates the principal parts of the ruffle with the use of which the operator chould be thoroughly acquainted, ‘These purts ate as follows: A. SILANK - to be attached to presser foot bar B - FORK ARM - to be placed astride the noedle clamp, G _ADJUSTING SCREW - regulates and then holds the fullness (size) of gathers and pleats, after poin. ter «Fs has been set to desired position on dial «G ». D - PROJECTION - goes through slots in Adjusting Lever «E>. 6 Fie. E. ~ ADJUSTING LEVER - to set Ruler for gathers for pleats, also for disengaging rufller when neither gathers nor pleats are required. F = POINTER ~ for setting the fulln gathers and pleats, (sine) of G ~ DIAL - numbered from 1» to «i> and for celting the fullness of gathers and pleats H_ . SEAM GUIDE. - guide on bottom part of rufiler, containing clots into which edge of material ix placed to keep heading of ruffie even; also for separating Inaterial to be tuflled from material to which rule is tw be attached. |. RUFFLING BLADE (FEED BLADF) - the upper blue steol blade with tecth at end, to push material in pleats tosrard the needle. K_- SEPARATOR BLADE - the lower blue steel blade ‘without teeth, which prevents the feed dog of the machi- he from coming into cuntact with feed blade of rufler, oF with material to which ruffle or pleating is tobe applied. oL- HEADING GUIDE izes of heading, M - SLIDI widths of ee GUIDE - can be adjusted for vai ns oF headings. EPARATOR GUIDE - for separ: ed from material to which rut To Attach Ruffler to Machine: Raise needle to highest position and remoye presser fool. Place ork arm of rulller astride the needle same time attach shank of rulller to ‘Tighten th eres firmly. §} that needle enters center of needle hole in rufller. To Rutfler (Gather): 1) Raise adjusting lever ¢K.> (Fig. 66) and move it lo the Left until projection «D> enters in slot marked «1 9. By loosening and movi g plastic adjusting screw «Ca, set z ter <> to desired number on sal «G>, w obtain the fullness of rullle desired. Tigh ten firmly screw «C > after setting. The ruling hade will now move forward and hackwartl once at every alitch, 3) Insert material to be rfl blades (LINE 2, Fig. 67), 4) Draw material slightly back of needle, lower pres ser bar and sew. Fig, 68 shows the rufflo being. made by the rufiler, hetween the two blue Fis. 67 can be adjusted for different is to be 5) For fine gathe \gs set machine for a shorter stitehs ing set it for a longer stitch. for full gath vig 6 To Make Ruffle and Sew it to Garment in One Operation: , von the wo blue 1) Insert material tobe ruffled betwe h Dlades and tinder the separator guide « N» (LE NE 2, Fig. 69). 2) Place material 0 vattacied under separator blade to a number between «3 and «8 on dial ¢G », depending upon depth of pleat desired, laa 3) Insert material to be pleated between the two blue blades 4) Draw material slightly back of needle, lower pres ser bar and sew To Make a Pleat Once Every Twelve Stitches; 1) Raise adjusting lever «Ey (Fig, 66) and move it s0 that projection « D » enters in slot marked «12». 2) Follow same procedure as described in preceding. chapter, To Do Group Pleating: ‘The ruler can be adjusted for group pleating by Lif ting the adjusting, lever < E> (Fig. 66) und movi it to the right until the top of the projection « D> enters the short slot indicated by a star. This should be done at those cections of the material where it is desired to make a space between the pleats, ‘The ruffle will thew stop pleating and only plain atte ching will be donc in the desired space has been made adjust either of move the ever «> until the projection «Ds enters lats ¢6> or «128, an desired. 20. BLINDSTITCHING (Without attachment) Mlusirations Figs. 78, 76, 77 +78, and 79 show how to fold material properly for blindstitehing Machine Sottin Neeile Position Lever: In right notch Zig-Zag Stitch Lever: Set at «>. Stich Length Lever: Set at 4. Upper Tension: Nom Presser Foot: Reaulir sig-aue stitch hinged foot. Procedure: 1) When using lighter fabries (linen, cotton, pereales, te), fold over raw edge o e of fabric, as indicated in Fi When using heavier fnbries (woolens, heavy rayons, etc), seam binding (about */<” wide) should he B 4" towardWrong side of fabris sewn to raw eilue of i Fis, 70), instead of fol Sree deni dune 1 away from the inside Fold desired width of hem toward wrong side of fabric, as shown in Fig 77. Follow this step for all types of fabric. Fold almost the entire width of the hem toward the right side of the gornient (sce Fig, 7), leaving only about ™/s" to 4” of hem exposed, The - an Desired width of hem eT Wrang side of fabric / i ie N < s RRO ~ S55 Sea Ne Fis. 78 findstitching will then be done on this exposed Lift praser fout and place fabric under the needle in such a manner that the exposed arca of hem faces upward, and is at the right of the needle (see Fig. 79). Lower presser foot and start sewing, at a moderate speed. Guide fabric so thal the needle, when stits ching left, just ¢ bites > into the very edge of the fold, a shown im Fig. 79.Using the To facilitate Blind +t Blindsitch Guide ie antble hich, wen tached tothe preset bar alongside the regular zig-zag stitch hinged foot (ax ee in Fig. 79), makes it de te terial casily and aocurately along the guiding of this guide, when the aforementioned uporaice Nog is being performed. seine 21, TUCKING (Without attachment) Plain Tucking: eam be don i ee cl can be done by proceeding, in the fol 1) From a picce of still cardhoard, cut a strip Fie an approsimately 314" tong. a chown in ig, W. This strip will be used asa gaupe when marking the tucks to he made on ke ea The leugth of the strip may vary. depending the widths of the tucks te le made and red distance between the tucks, 2) Ata distance from the top ead of the gauge equal to twice the width of the desired tek, ent a notch into the edge of the gauge, as indicated in Fig. 90, If, for instance, the width of the finished tuck is to be 14”. the distance of the notch from the top end of the gauge will be twice 4" (14). 8) Below the first noteh, cut a second notch into the gauge at a distance equal to the desired distance between the mcks (Fig. £0) Topiend of gauge Thice width of desired tuck Dosirad distan] LL NN 2e# notch Fi. 60 4) Sprend the material, right side up, on the working table, then mark a guide line on the material, 1” away from and parallel with the raw edge of the material (sce Fig, $1). For marking use white tailor’s chalk on dark materials, and colo- red tailor's chalk on Place the top end of the gauge at the guide Tine ‘on the material, with the gauge testing flat on theRaw ed marked and each desired twel is thus indicated by corresponding. short lines. Storting fro the original, guide Tine, fold back the top side, of Ue material so that the wroni Sides of the fold face each other, and the guiding Tine (which is now tinderneath the fabric) falls directly under the first set of marked short lines Twhse width Th. This will give a tuck of the desired width. ; Pin the material together to prevent slipping of the fold. va For sewing the tuck, set machine as follows. Newille Position Lever: In center notch. Zigeag Stitch Lever: At extreme left. (straight ching). : Sitch Length Lever: Set between <1» and «2> Desired distance [— thine 2) Twice width of — thine 2) desired tuck i sew along the line formed by the three short lines and the original guide line, Raw edge of materia Fis a material and extending below the guide line Placing the gauge im this manner at the leit edg at the center and at the right edge of the material draw short markiug lines on the fabric upper edges of both notches a nes 1 and 2 in Fig. 81). lnmginary lines woing Sete from the mark at the left edge through the mark Casi in the center to the mark at the + s ous parallel with the guide line Slide the gauge down so that its top end will b &€ the short masking lin «2. "Te upper eh es of the two notches will indicate the’ places here new markings (Lincs 4 and 4s 81) are to be mude for additional tucks, Continue this procedure until the material is cumpletely meeeis mick has been sewn, you ar to make the second tek 12) Turw the raw edge up so that the right side of its material faces upwards again, 18) Now anain fold hack wc lup side of the material 0 that 2 comes directly uncer and in hack c new tuck, sow it, et nue the above procedure for as many tucks as are desired, 22. ADJUSTABLE CLOTH STITCHING GUIDE With the aid of this guide the as clow to the edge of the material as desired, and Keep the stitches at a uniform distance f 1) Attach eloth guide to hed ‘of of a thumb s:tew which fits into one of the screw holes in the bed of the machine (Fig, 2) After having adjusted cloth guide to desi ce, tighten thumb screw securely’ aril eu operator is able ty ces od distan- . (See Mlusteations Fig. 64) ra accessories are not included in the price Mio chi, Te can he yoru frm JOH Authorized NECCHI Dealer. actiMAKING OF EYELETS ‘An Fyelet Buttonhole Set is required for easy produc Lion of eyelets. This eyelet buttonhole set eansists of three special needle plates (for three different sizes of eyelets}, one special feed dog, one special presser foot ‘Eyelet Fool) and three eyelet punches (for the diffe rent skies of eyelets To Prepare Machine: 1), Remove siguzag stitch hinged foot from presser har Remove zig-zas stitch needle plate. Remove regular feed dag by removing screws hol ding, this feed dog, Install special feed dog. Tighten serews firmly so that feed dog is not loose. Select one of the three needle plates (included in the Eyelet Buttonhole Set) according to the size af eyelet to be made. Insert this needle plate in the mach 6) Mttach special Eyelet Poot to presser foot bar Machine Setting for Eyelet Making: Nocdlo Position Lever: In center noteh. Uig-hag Stitch Lever: Set between ¢&» and <4 Stitch Length Lever: Set for «Satin Stiteh » Upper Tension: Norwal, Procedure 1) With tailors chalk, mark location of eyelets on frarment Take one of the three eyelet punches (accordin to desired size of eyelet), then place the chalk mark fn garment over a flat pieve of wood and set punch over chalk mark, Hit punch with a heavy: object (hammer) to eut through clot Place perforated portion of cloth over raised por: tion of eyelet neeille plate Being presser fout down and commence sowing. ‘The cloth will automatically he fed clockwise, pi voting around the raised portion of the eyelet needle plate. “If cloth should stick, help by guiding around this raised portion, Stitching inay be gone over as many times as required until desived effect is obtained. Fig. Ho shows a finished eyelet MAKING KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLES If itis desired to make keyhole buttonholes (see Fig, 86) in heavy materials, it is advisable: to obtain 1 keyhole buttonhole cutter (see Fig. 87) from your Authorized NECCHI Dealer With this cutter, which is adjustable for different sizes of buttonholes, cut the desired holes into the eloth at the proper places. %Set machine as if for regular « Buttonhole Maki (see page 57) and proceed sewing around the cut hole in same manner ax described in the chapter «Making of Duttonholes ». Guide the material ¢ fully around the ent out hole to obtain a neatly fi keyhole buttonole. Machine Setting: Presser Foot: Remove Zig-Zag Stitch Hingeel Foot and attach Shirring Foot (Gatherer) ta presser {ool bar Needle Position Lever: In center notch, Zigelag Stitch Lever: Move to ostreme left Suiteh Length Lever: Posi the fullness of yathers desired Upper Tension: Will he determined hy the fullness of gathers desired, NOTE: The fullness of the gathers will be increased by lengthening the stitch and tightening the upper tension % under shirring foot, lower Check gathers. and if necessary Procedure: Place m the foot and commen adjust stitch length and upper tensi Several yp of spacial peer fet re enable for cording work and for sewing vn sppers. These pres Ser fete ery wel for slp ever work (og tm cords) and for alaching zippers to parment, te These feet will enable you to work very close to the cord or sipper, as shown belo oon Teele Figs. 4 show Regular Cordin ippee Feet (rig and left) and also the Adjustable Right and Left Cor ding, and Zipper Foot Machine Setting: Presser Foot: Remove Zig-Zag Stitch Hinged Foot and aallach Cording (Zipper) Foot to presser foot har. Needle Position Lever: In venter notch. Figelag Stitch Lever: Move to extreme left, Suiteh Length Lever: Set a position desired, Upper Tension: Normal. Procedure: Place fabric and cord underneath presser foot (sec Fig. #9), lower the presser foot and com: ‘mence sewing. PATENT FOOT (GAUGE FOOT) (Sec Fig. This foot is equipped with four adjustable graduated ‘rides and will enablo you to sew straight ceams pa allel to the edge of the material at any distance desired. GROOVED ZIG-ZAG STITCH HINGED FOOT (See Fig. 84) This foot, which is provided with a groove (recess) om bottom face, is especially suitable for fine embro: lery work (like a cutout > work) and when working with the NECCHI MATIC, ROUND SWIRL STITCH AND EMBROIDERY FOOT (See Fig. This foot, which provides good visibility of the wore King space below the needle, can to great advant he used for swirl stitching, making of raised satin dots, feather desig embroidery FESTOON FOOT This foot will enable you to make designs easily, such as shown in Fig, 90, wherchy a string’ of pearl eotton, guided by a hole in the presser foot, ean be attached to the fabric by means of zig-zag. stitche The design, to be followed, must first be marked on the fubric, ‘The mackine setting is axNeedle position lever in center noteh, zig-zag stitch lever at <1 (thickness of pearl cotton must just be covered by the aig-rag stitches), stitch length lever adjusted for « satin stileh > BLINDSTITCH FOOT The NECCHI Blind Stiteh Foot (see Fig. 91) is a new improved , 56> and 4789. On cach side of every disc is a groove of a particular shape which corresponds to a certain desi that will automatically he made hy the machine. Pa face of these discs bears an emblem, showis asic design obtainable with this face. Ta. ins the desired dices in the NECCHI-MATIC, remove the knurled knob < Es [see Figs, 93 and 94), then place the dise on the center stud of the NECCHEMATIC with the Nocdle Position Le- ter «Mo and the ZigeZag Stitch Lever «N > of the machine (see Fig. 93) and thus to control those two levers The longer connecting red ¢ F > controls the nwculle position lever «M's, whereas the shorter com necting rod © G» controls the zig-zag stitch lever « N » The S-shaped end of the longer rod «PF» ie always inserted into the uppermost hole of lever « shall bo inserted into cither of the there lower holes of lever @K > (depending on the desised width of the rig-rag stitches in the design), whereas the hook-shaped ”(split) end of this rod is insorted into the correspond: ing hole of the sigsaug stiteh lever < Nv To prevent the rods eF > and from coming ‘out of the levers «M.» and «N » while the NECCHT MATIC is in operation, the split ends of these rods ‘ean be spread slightly, if necessary, with x knife or small screw driver. ADJUSTING THE STITCH LENGTH LEVER Sewing with the NECCHEMATIC must always be done in the forward ditection only Tt has been found host to adjust the stitch length lever s0 as to obtain «atic stitch » DISENGAGING THE NEEDLE POSITION LEVER « M » FROM THE NOTCHES For making designs which require aulomatic operation of the needle position lever «M > (see Fis means of the longer connecting rod « ¢M> must be prevented from snap thes of the corresponding plate in front of the machine arm. To accomplish this, the machine ix provided with s emall frame « Po (sce Fig. 98) which is hold to the machine arm with the aid of the nut (sce Fig. %) must be pr firmly against the balance wheel of the machine. To disengage the NECCHI-MATIC, the wh be pushed away from the balance whee When using the NECCHI-MATIC, always move the speed sivitch on the transformer to the HI position. Figs. 95, 96, 97, 98, 99 and 100 show the basie designs which ean be obtained with the four standard furnished with the machine. ‘The illustrations at the right of cach dise face show the designs obtainable With this disc face when operating the needle position ever and tho xig-zag stitch lever in the manner de- seribed in the follo The disc must thereby he * el cR> must installed in the NECCHI-MATIC so that the dise face in use faoes the sewing, machine. ‘AIL designs referred to in the foll Nery light upper thread tension | the zig-zag, stitch hinged fo set for « Satin $0 Dae me 34 lowing are made with ‘almost zero) and with, Stitch length lever isMachine Setting for Designs Figs. 95 and 98: Needle Position Lever: Operated automatically (von nected by means of longer rod «F'> with lever (Fig, 99) ust be attached to. machine Zig-dag Stitch Lever: Operated by hand. Desi , ¢by and ee. are obtained at three differen positions of zigezag stitch lever Machine Setting for Designs Figs, 96 and 99: Neeille Position Lever: frame ¢P» (Fig, 9 Needle position lever in left notch gives design < dy Neudle position lever in center notch gives design « ¢ > Needle position lever in right notch gives design « { > Zigedag Stitch Lever: Operated automuticully (eon nected by nweans of short rad ¢ G > with lever « K NECCHEMATIO), Width of rigezagr stiteh can be varied by inserting Schaped end of short rod lower holes uf lever ¢K » (see Fig, 93) Operated by hand. Sinall nut to be attached to snachine. > into one of three Machine Setting tor Designs Figs. 97 and 100: Needle Position Lever: Operated antomaticully (con nected by means of longer rod of NECCHEMATIC) Width of sigzag stitch ean be varied by inserting shaped end of short rod ¢G» info one uf three lower holes of lever (see Figs, 98 and 94) has been placed on the frame of the NECCULMATIC, Whenever any of the timing marks (A, B, € ot D) on the dise lines up with the timing mark ¢T on the NECCHLMATIC, it is an indication that the desired eyele of the design (90, 180, 270 or 360 degrees) has been completed and that be nother eyele is about to When the selected timing mark on the disc lines up with that on the NECCHEMATIC (T), cease sewing by stopping the balance wheel by hand (so that the needle is out of the fabric), then move by hamd that lever (needle position lever, or zigzag stitch lover] which is not connceted with the NECCIEMATIC by means of the aforementioned rods « F» or «CG, and resume sewing until the timing marks on disc) and NECCHEMATIC line up Ie this manner a prace tically unlimited variety of ornamental designs can by obtained. As you become more experienced with th performance of the NECCHIMATIC, you will discover many new possibilities of increasing the variety af designs that can be made with its aid. BREAKING OF THREAD DURING SEWING HW, while making comb ns, thread breaking occurs. it is advisable to untavel wll stitches that were tmade since the end of the preceding design (eyele) aud to start the new cycle all over again, It is. thereby necessary to bring the rubber wheel «Ri» (see Fig 93) of the NECCHI-MATIC vat of contact with the balance wheel of the machine and to turn wheel « R» c timing mark «A.» on the dise lines up with the timing mark «Ts (see Fig. 93) of the NECCHEMATIC, SEWING VERY THIN FABRICS When sewing very thin fubries, itis expedicnt to place 4 pieve of thin paper underneath the fabric which should then be removed alter the work is completed ‘Thus sewing, is made casicr MAINTENANCE OF THE NECCHI-MATIC The NECCHEMA'TIC should be cleaned from time to ” time of Tint and dirt, and lub NECCHL oil, ‘The oil holes on the NECCHIMATIC are indicated in red. Prevent oil from getting on the fubber ring of the pulley. Wipe off thoroughly all oil that may have dropped on this rubber ring, VARIOUS DESIGNS MADE WITH THE NECCHI-MATIC In the following are explained a few of the many designs that can be made with the aid of the Wonder Wheel NECCHEMATIC: 1, NECCHI-MATIC BORDERS (Fig. 101) To prevent unnecessary changing of the colored threads, the Center row of this border desigo shouldbe made [ie vegular or grooved aigzang atte hinged foot Machine Setting for Center Row: Dise Face: Noy 2 (must face machine) Needle Position Lever: In center natch, Zig Zag Stitch Lever: Operated outomatically (con: nected by meas of short rod «G9 with lever « Ko of NECCHIMATIC Stitch Length Lever: Set for (close) « satin stiteh » Machine Setting for Rows on Either Side of Center Row: Being NECCHEMATIC out of action by: moving, rub- bercovered wheel ¢R > (Wig. 98) away from balance wheel of machin Needle Paxision Lever: In center notch Zig-Zag Stitch Lever: Sct at «2 >. Stitch Length Lever: Set betweoen «0» and «1».Machine Setting tor Outside Rows: Dise Face: No. 3 (must fave mac Necille Position Lever In ecnter nnteh Zig-Bng Stitch Lever: ted by meat of short rod « NECCHEMATIC), Stiteh Length Lever: Set for (elose) « satin stiteh Te oblain most pleasing effects ld he used for these dexi Border designs can be used on pockets, yokes, towels. shee ete threads of colors pillow cases, tabl 2. NECCHI-MATIC FLOWERS (Fig, 102) Machine Setting: Nise Face: No, 3 (must fave machine Needle Position Lever: In center woteh Zigelog Stitch Levers Operated automatienlly ted by means of short rad NFCCHEMATIC), 10 Operated uxtomalicully. (connee lars, cuffs, belts Stiseh Lengsh Presser Foot: Use Lever: Set for «satin stiteh Procedure: Mark design om fabric Petals aind leaves. are all successively made by using Allow machine to ran until en finished. Stop machine, Complete ‘ceed until all petals and leaves have ast one farm of de ju next unit, and pl eon formed For Stem of Flower: Disconnect NECCHLMATIG, then sei stem with clase ¢ satin stiteh >. 1 NECCHEMATIC itch », Run For Center of Flower ww center dots with close < sulin then machine until one small dot has been formed: Stop machine. Repeat until all center dots have been for- med. Pull threads to wrong side of fabric and knot ends Flowers, or flower sprays may be used on clothing Tincws, gift items, ete3, NECCHI-MATIC SCALLOPING ON RAW EDGES OF FABRIC Machine Setting: Die Net sected by m Face: No. 2 (must fare machine Position Lever: Operated automatically (con | ns of long rod « F > with lever (Fin, 93) snust Iw attached to. machine Zig-Zag Stitch Lever: Set at <2 >. Stitch Length Lever: Set for « satin stitch » Presser Foot: Use grooved rig-cag, stiteh hinged foot Fig. 103 Procedure: ‘Take strip of heayy paper of sufficient length and place raw edge of fabs as shown inf scalloped she Place fabr lower presser fabric carefully over the yuaper, 198. The edue of the fabric to be be buck and paper by the heavy paper ot and cormmence sew' that the scallops just catch the raw ede of the fabric Sealloped ciges can be used on linens, dresees, belts curtain ruffles, ete we 4, RAISED SATIN DOTS (Fig. 104) NOTE: The making of raised satin dote does not re quire the use of the NECCHI-MATIC. Since, however, raised satin dots are an essential part of combined designs, it has been found best to explain the making of these dots at this point Machine Setting: Needle Position Lever: In conter noteh Zig-Lag Stitch Lever: Set at any desired position bet ween « L> aud we zig-zag stitch hinged foot and attach, round swirl stitch and eibroidery Fig. 104 Procedure: Place fabric under presser vot, then lower presser foot. Turn balaneo wheel by hand, and, every ie slightly ing needle as a pivot until circle fabrie until the desired of the dot is obtained, For flat jn the fabric, tuen [ab thickn plete the 1035 For center of snow flake, follow proved for « Raised Satin Dots » now flake To make arms (po proceed as follows: Machine Setting: Dise Face: No.7 (aust face machine Yeeulie Position Lever: In center notch Lig Zag Stitch Lever: Operated auton led by means of short red «G+ NECCHI MATIC) Stitch Length Lever: Set for Presser Foot ically. (connec with lever «K > of « Satin Stiteh » Use grooved zigsaag hinged foot Procedure: Mark sles fab Place fabric under and run machine until has been completed, St and fine up (turn) fabric to make nest point (arm) of snow flake, Proceed in this manner until all points of design have heen completed tot nat, Tower the presser foot point (arm) of snow flake machine. Lift presser foot This form of stitching, which does not requite the aid [the NECCHEMATIC, can be d ee Machine Setting Zigslag. Stitch Leve Sivek Length Le Uppe , Pre ver Foot: ¥ al foot ans attach round sivitl slitch and embroidery foot to pres Najnst for low pressure upon pr In center notch. Set at any desired position bet Set for Normal move rig-eag stitel hin Procedure: Place under presser foot and lower the presser f ene fabric quickly left and right Keop fabric moving. at regular, th wing, swing n semicircular moli 105,it in the aforementioned manner itch effect, Felt, heavy woolen fabrics, heavy faille silk, cotton ne, butcher linen are uitable fabrics for swirl itching, IT fine fabrics are desired for this type of work, uw Paper or cheiicalized buckram underteath fabric Swirl stitches, as decorations, may be used in vertain treas of a gariwent. A large piece of fabric may alee he covered with swirl stitches, then cut and made inte collars, enffs, yokes, belts, pockets, ete to create swirled SEWING WITH THE DOUBLE NEEDLE The Double Needle makes it possible to sew on the BU MIRA with two threads of the sam different colors, at the same {he variety and atactiveness of decorating fan be made with this sewi nachine, To sew with the Double Neale, the machine smust be Prepared as follows color, or of ie. thereby aims that 1) Insert Double Needle i ter as the regular single its highest p lan: wheel toward You, then loosen neelle clamp serew, remove sinele needle and insert Double Needle (with flat side shank toward the right) into groove of needle ber Push Double Needle up into clamp. ae far ae ih then tighten needle clamp ‘screw. firmly Do not bend needles when inserting thesn into needle Bring: needie bar to Substitute regular hi double needle pr ed presser foot with hinged foot (Fig. 107-C), tute regular needle plate with needle plate for double needle (Fig. 107-D), bove parts are standard equipment with all BL machines, and can be found in the accessory When sewing with the Double N thread, alter having passed below the tens of the bobbin case, must posit 106 the lower spring through the hole in the ning linger of the bobbin ease (Fig, 107-F), Fig. 100 Fig. 107The needle clamp (Fig. 107-A), the race cover’ plate (Fig. 107-) and the bobbin case (Fig. 107) san at, be used for sew le neerlle only For donble uewdle sowing, the upper and lowe: tensions must be adjusted very carefully. a indicated in our instru If the stiteh adjustment « is imperfect, even alter careful f the thrend tensious, the rear needle should be pushed slightly with a finger [rom loft to right 6) When sewing with the double needle, the machine must he threaded as illustisled in Pig. 103 CAUTION: When sewing with the double necdle, meyer u laruest width of the zig-zag atitch, Alo. never move the stitch length lever to the position that givec the longest stitch Hit is necessary to turn the material make cure, b fore doing so, that the two needles are completely wi of the fabric Sewing with the Doulile Needle can be performed Without the aid of the NECCHEMATIC. Irewular omnection with the. NECCHLMATIC Some of the de made by means of resular and automatic shown on the following pages, Instructions are als ven pertaining to the manipulation of the varione levers inn 0 lor to obtain these decorative stitches Threads to be used for Sewing with the Double Needle: For regular sewing of decorative ot for sewing of decorative stitches dl NECCHIMATIC. embroidery. thread No. 30. shoul be used for the upper and the lower thread. For certain decorative stitches, embroidery. thread No. 50 should be used for the upper thread ‘aad pearl cotton No. 8 for the lower thread. Iu these insbences the desired decorative seam appears on the undersh of the fabric and, considering this fact, the material to be sewn should be placed on the machine ingly 108 word: Types of Decorative Stitches Obtainable with the Double Needle: In the following are illustrated some of the decorative stitches which ean he made with the aid of the Double Needle. It must, of course, be realized that the actual brie and with differently colon the work, Wing made on red threads, will rep ative stitches uel ustrations shown below Regular Sewing: nboidery thread No. 50 for upper and lower Pe 9 Machine Setting: (lor Fig, 109) Neite Poittom Leperi:tn-emlernth, Zig-Zay Stitch Lever: Between ind «3 Stich Length Lever: Set al «3 1S) ia aT Fie. uo Machine Setting: (tor Fig. 110) Needle Position Lever: Move thythmically back and forth between #3 h Zig-Zag Stiteh Le Stitch Length Lever! vers Sel al «2 1PD il iran ‘i Machine Setting: (for Fig. 111) Needle Position Lever: In venter notch, Zigchay Stitch Lever: Move slowly back and forth from left to right Stitch Length Lever: Set for «Satin Stiteh », For the following stitches, use embroidery thread No. 50 for No. 8 for lower tread. ‘The tension of the upper threads should he very tight, and that of the lower (bobbin) thread be very loose, upper th The decorative stitehes Figs 112, 118 and 114 will appear un the underside of the fabric, Considering thi the material 10 be sewn should be placed on the nachiine ae LL LLL Ln Fis, nz Machine Setting: (for Fig. 112) Needle Position Lever: In center notes Zig Zag Stitch Lever: Sot at <5 >. Sutch Length Lever: Set at «4» no Machine Setting: (for Fig. 113) Needle Position Leve In center notch. Zig-Zag Stitch Lever: Set at «5 Stitch Length Lever: Set slighlly below «Ly (about 8/4"), FART Machine Setting: (for Fig. 114) Fis, 114 Needle Position Le Zig-Zag Stitch Lever Stitch Length Lever: Se ir: In center notch. SEWING WITH DOUBLE NEEDLE AND NECCHL-MATIC Use embroidery thiead No, 50 for upper and lower threads, Machine Setting: Fig 15 Needle Position Lever: Operated automuticully (von. nected by means of long rod with NECCHEMATIC, Zig Zag Stitch Lever: Set hwetween «19 and Stitch Lenuth Lever: Set for «Satin Stiteh > Design (Fig. 115) with groove «1» of ¢ il all cli cal Design (Fig. 116) with groove ¢2 of dice NDesign (Fig. 117) with groove 29 of dise No, Set Vig 17 Design (Fig. 118) with groove ¢43 of dise No. 34. AP are Ml Fig 18 CIRCULAR SEWING ‘The slide plate of the machine is provided with three holes «H» (sce Fig, 119) which make it possible to perloru citeular sewing, Illustration Fig. 12L shows the typo of work done by circular sessing. Illustration 120 shows u eross-section through the fabric to be sewn, the slide plate and a small rubber stopper wshich is included in the avceesory bos of the machine Pe 9 Rubber Stopper Slide Plate 12 To do circular sewing, proceed as follow Insert the small rubber stopper into one of the three s «Ho of the slide plate. ‘The choice of the hole cH» depends on the diameter of the circle to be sewn. ‘The farther away the rubber stopper is from the needle the larger will be the eile sewn Place the fabric under the presser foot, then take an ordinary thumb tack and_push it, through the center of the circle to be sewn, into the rubber stopper (as indicated in Figs. 120 and U2) Fig, 121 While sewing keep a finger placed on the thunb tack so that the fabrie, revolving around the center point ‘ol the design, does not slip or become detached (which may cause irregularities 1n the embroidered design), Cireular sewing. should be done only with materials possessing a certain consistency sich as corduroy, stiff Woolens. leather, ote, Lighter materials. for the pur- pore of eircular sewing, shonld be placed in an oni- bary embroidery hoop. usFOR BEST RESULTS IN YOUR HOME SEWING WITH NYLON FOLLOW THESE SUGGESTIONS: ‘When cutting nylon fabric, use well sharpened shears Leave generous al Neodles, Pins, Rasting: Needles, for both machine and hhand sewing, should be small and sharp. Select the finest needle that will aceommodate the thread. Num hers 11 and 00 or their equivalents are hest for mast nylon fabries, Sharply pointed pins and sharp. fine necrlles penetrate through nylon easier and give better results in basting. anew fur seam, THREAD: Nylon thread is recommended for nylon fabrics Scan sewn with nylon thread are durable, dry quickly when washed, and will not shrink. Other threads however, may be used. Always cut nylon thread with cissors rather than attempting to break it by hand. This will avoid « pulled » seams, and give a clea ond that is easier to put through the ese of the neve TESTING: It is very isuportant to test your stitching on all nylon fabries hefo! This will help you determine the proper sewing machine Stitching: Fewer stitches per inch can hy made when ing nylon. Better seams will generally result when stitches are larger than those used on other fabrics If you prefer smaller stitches for top stitchinz, your ‘own experimentation on the fabric itself will help you select the proper machine adjustivents When sewing on tightly woven fabrics as few as seven itches to an inch may be used, particularly for inside seams, Nylon’s strength allows this linge stiteh to be starting any. perma: nts possible Tensions: ‘Test stiteh on the straight of the goods, low ering tensions until a well-formed but loose stitch is of nylon’s great stre h and elasticity. xewing other threads may with tensions normally used ns cause seams sewn with nylon thread te pucker. When sewing with threads other than nylon, use loose tensions and large slilches, too, ‘The use of ti material often: gives suiwotler and tightly woven fabrics. e or ordinary shelf paper under your sams when sew' FINISHING: fabries, should Seams on nylon fabries, as on all fi be carefully made without raw edges. Bound, French, edgestitehed, or overcast seams help assure resistance to raveling. Pinking the edges will ient for some tizhilly woven fabrics, Your decision on finishing should he based on whether or not your particular fabric tends to ravel, Most nylon tricot fabrics will hing without raw edj not rave. F sis not as neces saty on these as it is on suite other Labries When finishing scams with hindings, be sure they are nylon or of preshrunk material. Well finished seams will help preserve the beauty and durability of nylon articles Fasten stitches at the beginnin, by retracing for several stitches oF ¢ and end of cach sea thread ends PRESSING: As with other fabries, each seam after stitching, Tt is important to use a low tempe jurethe «nylon» oF «rayon » setting on automatic ons. Pressing, with a damp cloth may give superior a sleain iron, it too may be used. should be pressed sults ry if you hay2-Dy ssipping the stopper, draw out the oil tuhe 40 B firmly nin le | red length of il Filing container tele Ind and mere eA and Hh with wllin ting, Repac A and Tb with iting tuhe Ree ore. mvt Aghios \ ond of off tube am red portion ‘Adjusting the length ine (Fig. 0 of the oil tube Li tinsetow the ap about 1 turn (Fig. a Bip. ab ALPHABETICAL INDEX Ace Byte Accesvoriny List of Standard Adjwtable Cloth Stitching Guide. a0 Applique Work Wa to alauew Wheel, Rotation of ' in % as Binder 65, 06 inde (Mas Hine 65, 60 nding Jamming? of Machine ... at Hidstteh Hoa 52, 90, 91 Hlindtiteh Guide ® indsitehins (without altachinent) 73 to 76 bin, Inventing into Roblin Case 29, 20, bin Case, Inserting. the 1 shin Case sth 0 Putian i too IRA th m Button: Sewing ft 6 thang the Newlle Ponto n.. ineular Sewinz na, 8 esi the: Upper Tei 2 loth Stitehine: Guide (aiustate) BO iments, List of f mirast Werk Applig 7 ding Zinper? Fo a8 wiliogend, Zipper Ope a7, ner, Turning: & 2% {Out Work ®Daisies, Fibro Hi Hemain Davai Mendis Hen Difficulties, Minor Henin Dts, Raised Satin Henstitehing Double Needle (Twin Hook (Shotte and Rep lacin Embroidered Dai Emiroidery Fmiwwidery and M with Dr Kevtiole Buttonhole: Canter Eyelet Buttoninte Fyeinis, Mak Feats af MU MIR ee al, Removing and Replay Feed Dog. Propving the Fella Seam Fistoon F Fla Fe Gathering (ufting Gathering. (Shiering F Pateni Gimp (Cord Buttonh Gauge Narrow Rolled tae Sch oon ne Net Autoatio Needle Thad : “Teiel . Nevehi- Matic (Wonder Wheel), Ta Working withN Ne aul Thread Si r Nevdle Breakin Nell, tnseting. a Neeille Plate, Changi 1 Neeille Position, Changing the Needle Threade hi Astoma Nolom, Sewing wi 1 zal $ Sotin Stitch atin Stitch Hind (Gime Zag Stitch Hinged Foot Sewing om Lace hell Stitch Shirring Foot (Gatherer Shattle (Hook Removing Oiler Neh Oiler 16, 117 Skit Marker Oiling the Mavhin M, Steve Boar Overeasting & Faw eae (Overlack peed Swit stitch ‘0 Stanilard. Acceso ‘ Overlack Stitch: (Overeasting raw site Lemath, I ih Stitching Straight. Stitch Hem (Narre Pateot (Gamse) F wa. 88 eres Peart Stitch Hotton 7 to [Saist stitching Vet Kage ¢Hlemstitein 9.56 Pinkine Shears 0 Pleoting, Ualfing) with Kufler 4 Preparing, Machine for Sraing 2 Prose Chit © set Foot. Clnging th ao ¥ Teck Piew Mite 7 Tape Teasinas, Adjusting the Thin ali . Theva tand Nevo 5 Tse theahing the Machine Releed Sots hts to Wht Raised Stites Appi 6 Minor Reeuleting the Length of Suteh .. a, 51 sarasota a), Repoloting Width of ZigZae Sth 35 2 Gomer Removing and Replacing the Sha Twin Nelle Double Nredie Ho Mook ‘ in with Remwving the Bobbin Cane 30 Removing Work fom Machine 2% Rolled Edges, Narrow s Ruthing (Gatherins) 7 Nutting (Pleatins) with ler 7 U Gieven sitchin Running the 10) MIRA “ie W011 Ww 105, 106Wid Us Winding the ems Womler Whee