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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Glen O. Brechbill

Fragrance Books Inc.

www.perfumerbook.com

New Jersey - USA

2009

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill

“To my parents & brothers family whose


faith in my work & abilities
made this
manuscript possible”
2

ARRANGING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS ©

This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any man-
ner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations
embodied in critical articles and reviews.

Designed by Glen O. Brechbill

Library of Congress

Arranging FinePerfume Compositions / Glen O. Brechbill


P. cm. 338 pgs.
1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the
understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals.
4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title.

Certificate Registry # 1 - 200445731

Copyright © 2009 by Glen O. Brechbill

All Rights Reserved

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition

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3 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

About The Book

What can I say about a fine perfume. Of course the art of creating a fine fragrance in this industry is a very
carefully guarded craft. In order to learn how to assemble a formula takes a very good memory, talent and years
of hard work. In fact the three leaders in the industry including Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have their own
schools where a student apprentices under a master perfumer.

A fine fragrance is nothing more then an assemblage of pleasing materials that together works harmoniously in
a blend. I decided to add my arrangements in order to display the art as simple as it is complex. If one works
a composition as a percentage of various materials a fine fragrance formula can be deciphered.

Unfortunately one will very rarely find any compositions on the world wide web. Part of this is due to the para-
noia within the industry. A material understanding will allow you to decipher the complexity of just about any
fragrance excluding Estee Lauder's Beautiful. Creating a formula with fifteen or more pages just over compli-
cates the art, and of course the fragrance. I decided to add my personal classification of aroma chemicals
through the book to help explain the simplicity of a creation and each fragrance family's uniqueness. Any given
material can play an important role, or a subordinate one. Again, that is the nature of the creative art.

Personally I believe a fine fragrance can be assembled utilizing a page and a half of various materials. What
works together in a blend depends on skill and in part luck by the artist. Most fragrance houses in the states
utilize test panels. Trying to get a scent created with endless critics further degrades the fine art. Asking some -
one a pointed question the answer can be what you want to hear, but not necessarily the truth.

Fragrance launches today are to many often tied to stars and gimmicks. Chandler Burr in his recent book show
casing the industry states the business needs to get back to its roots. I think he is one hundred percent correct
in his assessment. The miss truths put out by the marketing, public relations and ad advertising folks ads to the
declining sales and many failures.

Whether any particular fragrance in my book works is unknown. However, I do know one will not find a finer
collection of fragrance compositions anywhere on the internet. The craft and its art are that highly prized. If
one finds a book the formulas are either old, useless or misleading further obfuscating the art.

Enjoy presentation into the creative art.

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Glen O. Brechbill 4

Index

Index Pages

Copyright 2

About the Book 3

Index 4-5

Fragrance Families 6 - 13

Fragrance Pyramid 14 - 16

Costing Out a Fragrance 17

Floral Fragrance Chemicals 18 - 28


Floral Floral Compositions 29 - 60
Floral Bouquet Compositions 61 - 68

Green Fragrance Chemicals 69 - 72


Floral Green Compositions 73 - 92

Fruit Fragrance Chemicals 93 - 96


Floral Fruit Compositions 97 - 120

Rose Fragrance Chemicals 121 - 126

Violet Fragrance Chemicals 127 - 130

Jasmin Fragrance Chemicals 131 - 132


Floral Fresh Compositions 133 - 141
Floral Sweet Compositions 142 - 148

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5 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Aldehydic Compositions 149 - 160


Chypre Floral Compositions 161 - 164
Chypre Fresh Compositions 165 - 172
Chypre Fruity Compositions 173 - 180

Musk Animalic Fragrance Chemicals 181 - 184


Chypre Floral Animalic Compositions 185 - 192
Chypre Green Compositions 193 - 204
Floriental Compositions 205 - 208
Oriental Sweet Compositions 209 - 212
Oriental Spicy Compositions 213 - 224

Masculine Fragrance Families 225 - 228

Herbaceous Fragrance Chemicals 229 - 231


Lavender Fresh Compositions 232 - 235
Lavender Spicy Compositions 236 - 239
Fougere Fresh Compositions 240 - 243
Fougere Floral Compositions 244 - 251
Fougere Woody Compositions 252 - 255
Fougere Sweet Compositions 256 - 259
Oriental Sweet Compositions 260 - 263

Spice Fragrance Chemicals 264 - 266


Oriental Spicy Compositions 267 - 270

Woody Fragrance Chemicals 271 - 274


Chypre Woody Compositions 275 - 290

Moss, Amber & Tobacco Fragrance Chemicals 291 - 292


Chypre Coniferous Compositions 293 - 296

Leather Fragrance Chemicals 297 - 298


Chypre Leather Compositions 299 - 302
Chypre Fresh Compositions 303 - 306
Chypre Green Compositions 307 - 310

Citrus Fragrance Chemicals 311 - 319


Citrus Floral Compositions 320 - 323
Citrus Fantasy Compositions 324 - 327
Citrus Fresh Compositions 328 - 331
Citrus Green Compositions 332 - 335

Bibliography 336 - 338

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Glen O. Brechbill 6

Fragrance Families

LASSIFICATION IS VARIED, and their are new sub-divisions constantly being added. Keep in mind the sub-
C groups are part of the below families. Tastes and popularity of any particular group can vary from coun-
try to country. With the launch of more, and more fine fragrances the market is getting increasingly over satu-
rated. Employed today one will find a lot of marketing hype. This includes of course the use of movie stars,
personalities, custom bottles, and fancy packaging.

Fine fragrances can be categorized in several different aroma groupings. All scents no matter how unique
and distinct fall into fragrance families that include Floral, Chypre, Oriental, Lavender, Fougere and Citrus.
They are further divided between women, and men. Listed below are the original families as outlined by
Haarman & Reimer.

Feminine Notes

Floral Family:

The largest family of fine fragrances is by far the florals. Floral notes can find their way into the heart of
many fragrances. A floral fragrance can be classified as light, green, floral, and heavy. Scents in this family
include violet, carnation, rose, gardenia, lily of the valley, tuberose and narcissus. A light fragrance is often
described as springtime flowers like Lily of the Valley, Lilac and Freesia often with citrusy or fruity top notes.
Green accords can also be based on Muguet, and other leafy stem like materials sometimes based on herba-
ceous, earthy notes like Galbanum.

Narcotic floral effects can be achieved by blending different floral materials with rose notes plus adding
exotic Ylang-Ylang, Methyl Benzoate, and other diverse floral materials. They are often found in southern cli-
mates than in more northerly regions, and are thus considered heavy. These include, first and foremost, Jasmin
represented by Benzyl Acetate, Hedione to name a few of the fragrance ingredients that are available to a cre-
ative artist.

Other exotic types include Tuberose, Orange Blossom and Narcissus. Floral notes in this family can also
be balsamic such as Hyacinth. Various violet compounds are a favorite addition to many compositions. The
fragrances included in this group enjoy the greatest acceptance around the world. Many formulas display dis-
tinctive accords that are reminiscent of their natural counter parts. It can be made up of a wide variety of flo-
ral bouquets, or a certain note which predominates. The floral family has six main sub divisions as Floral,

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7 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Green, Fruity, Fresh, Aldehydic and Sweet.

Floral Floral

A floral fragrance owes its nature to flower blossoms that may differ from one another. Rose materials such
as Citronellol, Geraniol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol predominate. Again Jasmine in combination with rose
ingredients are the central part of this theme. By adding carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, iris and others a pure-
ly floral effect can be achieved. Today more synthetic ingredients including the use of artificial bases are uti-
lized due to the high cost and unavailability of essential oils. For example, a fine fragrance such as Chanel # 5
created by Ernst Breaux in 1923 would smell entirely different today.

Floral Green

A floral green fragrance are natural in nature compounded by blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus
fruits. This group is characterized of typical botanical fragrance notes, like those of leaves, stalks or freshly
mown grass as well as cucumber-violet-like green notes. Generally relying on parts of plants, and flowers such
as Muguet, or Lily of the Valley. They can be delicate as Muguet or have a strong stem like note characteristic
of Styrallyl Acetate or Cyclamen Aldehyde. Green is often used to describe lush forests, fallen leaves during
the autumn, a woodland meadow, or grassland. They can be further subdivided under Fresh and Balsamic.
Galbanum or Olibanum would be in the later family, or the can be a green accord such as Cassis.

Floral Fruity

A fragrance of a floral fruity type can be achieved by blending fruity elements of a single fruit or a com-
bination of two or more of which one can dominate. Apple accords that include, peach, apricot, pineapple, cas-
sis, prune, strawberry, and raspberry. Mixed with fine floral ingredients that include jasmine, violet, hyacinth
and others provide a rich show case of what can be achieved within this family. Becoming more popular each
day is the utilization of Papaya, and Passion Fruit. These perfumes are known to have a clean fruit quality and
a soft warmth.

Floral Fresh

A flower that is found in nature can be fresh, yet sweet and green. This is part of the classification of fine
fragrances that is open to interpretation. Some suggest that this type of fragrance can be based on hyacinth, lily
of the valley and orange blossom with a fresh fruity note of Bergamot and other citrus materials. Jasmine based
on Benzyl Acetate or Hedione can also be part of the theme.

Floral Aldehydic

Floral aldehydic compounds were discovered in the 19th century. Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive
effect, and are characterized by a rich opulent top note. In small parts certain aldehydes are used as a top note
effect simulating a variety of floral scents that are found in nature. Muguet or Lily of the Valley based on
Hydroxycitronellal is a popular example. Utilizing aldehydes provide modern accords with a richness and

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Glen O. Brechbill 8

depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by
Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combina-
tion of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia.

Floral Sweet

A floral sweet fragrance is often described as a floriental. Fragrances in this family can include gardenia,
jas mine, freesia, and orange flower. A fine sweet fragrance can be based on Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl
Cinnamic Aldehyde, Vetiver including exotic spices and their essences.

Chypre:

The term Chypre was coined by Francois Coty who created the original perfume in 1917. They were based
on aroma materials that had an origin from Mediterranean countries. Mr. Coty was born on the island of Cyprus
thus he came up with his namesake Chypre. The concept is based on a citrus fresh accord and moss. Originally
the accord was founded on Bergamot Oil although scents in the family can include clary sage, lavender,
patchouli and resins. The scents feel perfect for those who enjoy the fresh outdoors. In women's fragrance
there are five main subdivisions that include Floral, Fresh, Fruity, Musk and Green.

Chypre Floral

Keeping this concept true to form the rose is used as a dominate theme. In my book titled, A Reference
Book On Fragrances I have a sub division that lists over 200 rose materials. Also used is a Gardenia accord
that can be artificially recreated using a Jasmin rose theme with Styrallyl Acetate as a predominate green note.

Chypre Fresh

The term fresh is open to a wide variety of interpretations. Fresh can be floral directed having its origins
in many different flowers, and of course with citrus top note components. With time this term has become
increasingly generic in its use.

Chypre Fruity

This concept is characterized by a predominate fruitiness often having a peach like fragrance. It is more
pronounced in this group having components that are inherent to this family.

Chypre Floral Musk

There are several popular animal notes that are employed in modern perfumery today. Musk was original-
ly obtained from the musk deer native to Asia. In dilution otherwise known as a tincture it has a distinctive ani-
mal like note. Civet is a cat native to Ethiopia in Africa. The animal has a gland that produces a sweet urine
musk like odor that produces a velvety nuance to many fragrance blends in trace amounts. A third is Ambergris
produced by the sperm whale. Often this material gray in color is found washed up on the shores of beaches

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9 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

around the world after being vomited by the whale. A pound of this material can bring a King's ransom. Today
most of the musk like animal materials are produced synthetically. Fine representations of this group include
Galaxolide 50, Ethylene Brassylate including Cashmeran, and Nepalva. Materials that include Phenyl produce
a musk like honey fragrance.

Chypre Green

A delightful concept, and one of my favorites is the Green theme. It is always open for experimentation
and interpretations. Generally a wide variety of floral components are incorporated into this arrangement with
a greenness based on Galbanum, Muguet, or Lily of the Valley, with strong green like synthetic notes. Often
added are herbaceous coniferous traces to round off this accord.

Oriental Family:

The Oriental family of fragrances is often referred to as Amber. These perfumes have a strong, musky, spicy
scent that often conjure up memories of Arabia and India. They are rich, heavy and diffusive. The sweetness
can be derived from vanilla, sandalwood to name a few. Combining floral ingredients they are mysterious and
sensual. The first Oriental was Jicky created by Guerlain in 1889. This group contain aroma materials often
are reminiscent of the Far East. There's a wide range of interpretations some flowery related whereas others
have a heavy spicy theme.

Oriental Sweet

An oriental sweet scent can have a citrus top note and a sweet vanilla amber foundation. Vanillin, and Ethyl
Vanillin both aldehydes can be used up to 10 % providing that extra sweetness. One can also utilize Balsam
Peru Oil, Vanilla Tincture, Vanilla Sur Abs. C'Less MD in conjunction with Benzyl family of materials.

Oriental Spicy

Incorporating spicy ingredients often from Indian can include clove, nutmeg and carnation, cardamom and
curry. Adding musk materials that can include floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang tend to provide
a delicate touch to this group. The notes can be bitter, or contain sweet elements A fragrance in this area is dis-
tinctive, and can be enjoyed by both men and women. Many perfumers add balsamic notes derived from bal-
sam materials including resinous notes derived from Balsam Peru.

EN'S FRAGRANCES TODAY ARE OPEN TO A MYRIAD of interpretations based on Lavender, Fougere, Oriental,
M Chypre and Citrus. The Oriental, and Chypre group shares a common theme with women's fragrances.
Lavender Family:

Masculine Notes

The fragrances are comprised of a union of lavender, or lavandin notes atop a mossy base with a citrusy
freshness. Fougere Royale by Houbigant was the first scent in this class. The Lavender and Fougere families

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Glen O. Brechbill 10

are similar often incorporating aroma materials that can be found in either theme. Originally it was intended
for women, but soon found its way to the men's side. Having fresh lavender as the main part of the fragrance
there is less room for creative interpretation. Both fresh and spicy themes predominate.

Lavender Fresh

This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas
opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.

Lavender Spicy

Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone
centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide
range of different themes.

Fougere Family:

The French word for Fern is Fougere. Ferns found in nature have very little odor. Generally the concept is
based on herbaceous materials that include Coumarin, Oak Moss, Lavender and Geranium. They are aromatic
often with a camphoraceous, minty, eucalyptus like with an earthy nuance. They are usually found on low-
growing, unobtrusively blossoming plants. Other examples include rosemary, sage as well as peppermint and
lavender. It also can be quite representative of a woodland accord.

Fougere Royale first introduced by Houbigant in 1882 was the start of this family. A composition can uti-
lize a wide range of aromatic chemicals as mentioned above including a variety of herbs, geranium and ferns.
The group was originally intended for the feminine market. However, it soon found its way to the men's side of
the fragrance isle. There are four sub-divisions in this group headed by Floral, Fresh, Woody and Sweet themes.

Fougere Fresh

This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh
approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.

Fougere Floral

The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations
of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.

Fougere Woody

This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be
used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and
animal materials.

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11 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Sweet

This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known
today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on
the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized.

Oriental Family:

The oriental family of fine fragrances is shared with the women. Scents in this family include amber, vanil-
la, woods, and resins. Spice materials such as cardamom, nutmeg, caraway, cassia, carnation, cinnamon find
their way in a variety of interesting combinations with a masculine theme. Floral notes such as rose and jas-
mine including the violet are part of the accord. Bay Oil from the West Indies including Pepper, Basil and
Olibanum are popular base materials. The mystery of the orient gives forth to an interesting, and at the same
time delightful group of fragrances.

Oriental Spicy

Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous
materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.

Oriental Sweet

An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fra-
grances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength.
Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme.

Chypre Family:

A Chypre fragrance was originally created by Francois Coty, and is based on ingredients originally from the
Mediterranean countries. It emphases the contrast between the citrus freshness of bergamot type top notes and
a mossy patchouli base. Chypre perfumes tend to be strong, and aromatic. In the men's side of the family there
are five main groups that have a woody, leathery, coniferous, fresh and green themes. There is a wide range of
accords that can be achieved by combining masculine aroma notes in daring ways. It is reminiscent of those
who love to explore, and enjoy the fresh outdoors.

Chypre Woody

This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which
smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and
warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like
note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly
fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and
can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.

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Glen O. Brechbill 12

Chypre Leather

Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include
Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including
Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of
course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS - 3768, and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great
care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that
includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling
strip well over a month.

Chypre Coniferous

A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy,
herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately
resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes
are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes.

Chypre Fresh

A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have
a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.

Chypre Green

The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often
Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.

Citrus Family

This is predominately a man's group of fragrances. Often citrus notes are combined in fine floral fruity
accords to strengthen the top note of this group of fragrances. They are predominately light and fresh with an
overwhelming citrus note such as bergamot, orange, lemon, lime, petitgrain, grapefruit, tangerine, and man-
darin. Citrus fragrances are refreshing very popular in the summer.

Citrus Floral

A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note based on the above.

Citrus Fantasy

A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of
many different citrus notes to produce different effects.

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13 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fresh

A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another.
A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.

Citrus Green

A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum
Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green
note aromas.

Ozone Family:

Oceanic, ozone, watery are an example of a new group of fragrances. Often they are described as things
you can't bottle naturally like ocean spray, mountain air, or freshly laundered clothes. There is a wide range of
fragrant ingredient materials available as outlined below:

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Glen O. Brechbill 14

Fine Woman’s Fragrance - L’Air du Flor

Citrus

Floral Bergamot
Lemon Fruity
Jasmin Lime
TOP
Carnation Orange Apple
Rose Melon
Violet Peach
Galbanum Strawberry
Gardenia Spicy
Styrallyl Acetate
Wood
Cinnamon
Green Cloves Cedar
Nutmeg Patchouly
Aldehydes Sandalwood
MIDDLE Vetiver

Mossy

Oakmoss
Tremoss
BASE

Amber
Animal
Amber Oriental Balsamic
Labdanum Civet
Vanilla Bean Castoreum Benzoin
Musk Opoponax
Musk Traseolide Tonka

The Scent Pyramid

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15 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

he florals represent the soul of every feminine perfume. They are basically middle notes. Nevertheless, as
T you can see, they also plan an important rolse in the devleopment of the top and the base of the fragrance.

The citruses, first of the top notes, also play a fairly important rose in the development of the middle of a fra-
grance. Then come the green notes, the fruity notes, and lastly the aldehydes, pure aroma chemicals with no
bases in nature, which are used to give diffusion and originality to a fragrance.

From there, we move on to the base notes, which include the spices ( which may also play an important rose in
the development of the top of the fragrance), the mosses, the woods, the oriental/balsamic, the animal and the
amber notes.

A triangle such as the outside one will give you a fragrance such as L’Air du Temps. The narrow inside trian-
gle with its emphasis on the top notes shows a fresh fragrance such as Diorella. The wide traingle with its
emphasis on the base notes illustrates a fragrance such as Shalimar.

While this is a very much a generalization, by varying the form of the traingle one can obtain an idea of the per-
formance of a fragrance and of the corresponding raw materials which go into its development.

The above should not be interpreted as an attempt to reduce a perfume to a mere traingle: the grandeur of a fra-
grance comes from its richness, not from its austerity. Nevertheless, the triangle approach seems the most apt
for visually translating notions which we all know are particularly difficult to grasp and express.

L’Air du Flor / Floral Floral

Top Notes Bergamot

Rosewood, Neroli Fresh Flowery

Peach, Spice Notes

Middle Notes Clove

Rose de Mai, Ylang - Ylang, Jasmin Floral Spicy

Orris, Orchid, Lily

Base Notes Sandalwood

Musk, Vetyver, Benzoin, Cedar Mild Powdery

Amber, Moss

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Glen O. Brechbill 16

Chypre Green

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

83 Iso E Super 6 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol


18 Musk 50 DPG 1 Geranyle Acetate Pure
.1 Alcohol C - 9 4 Petunial
6 Lavander Abrialis - Aldron 1 Frescile
3 Germacrene D’Natural 40 % PC192 6 Nectaryl
65 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 7 Hydrofix L
11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 22 Linalyl Acetate
4 Santal Blanc 4 Heliotropine
18 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 12 Benzoato Benzila
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 15 Sandela
57 Geraniol Extra 7 Etil Vanilina Thodarome
8 Top Galbanum 18.326 1 Mousse De Chene
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate 23 Benzyl Acetate FFC
29 Terpineol - Prodasynth 1 Anisyl Alcohol
8 Citronellol 4 Ethyl Vanilline
14 Ionone Alpha White Coeur .1 Neofolione
1 Rose Oil - Lebanon 5 Blood Orange Oil
11 Aubepine .1 Acetophenone
28 Benzyl Salicylate 14 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Cyclic
19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 3 Bois Ambrene Forte
11 Persicol SA 16 Aldehyde C -14
22 Hercolin - D 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
3 Cassis Fragrance 3 Ionone
14 Tangerine / Brazil 2 Floralyn
3 Styrallyl Acetate 1 Florol
.1 Iris Abs.
11 Ethyl Linalool
327 Di Propylene Glycol 1,000
1 Applinal
.1 Phellodedrine Fruit Oil
3 Bois Iris
1 Coriander Seed
1 Perryfix
.1 Viola Odorata
2 Eugenyl Acetate

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17 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

The Formula - Converting Pounds into Kilos


100 Lbs. Divided by 2.2046 = 45.36 Divided by 1,000 = .0453

.0453 X Parts = Grams Per Item = 1000 Parts

Costing Out a Fragrance - Pine - All Purpose Cleaner

Parts Aroma Price Per Raw Material


Material Pound Impact

291 Pine Oil Yarmor 302 1.03 .300


167 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1.35 .225
39 Alpha Pinene 2.25 .088
18 Eucalyptol 5.76 .104
3 Camphor Powder 2.00 .006
27 Galaxolide 50 8.75 .236
52 Alpha Terpineol 1.22 .063
26 Benzyl Salicylate 4.05 .105
24 Benzyl Benzoate 1.60 .038
23 Ionone Beta Pure 17.10 .393
11 Vertenex 2/45 .026
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate .860 .029
19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3.00 .057
28 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia 6.20 .174
1 Piconia 12.80 .012
12 Fir Needle Canadian 10.75 .132
17 Coumarin 7.50 .128
20 Santalex T - Sandela 6.50 .130
152 Di Propylene Glycol .64 .097
36 Terpinyl Acetate 1.80 .065

1,000 $ 2.408 Per pound

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Glen O. Brechbill 18

Floral Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate Eugenol Sweet spicy carnation.


Acetate C - 8 Fruity, slightly fatty waxy floral odor.
Acetate C - 9 Powerful fruity green leafy.
Acetate Iso Eugenol Balsamic, warm faintly spicy.
Acetophenone Pungent sweet odor, dilution - resembles hawthorne.
Adoxal Sweet floral waxy rosy referred to as ozone like.
Alcohol C - 8 Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy and sweet odor.
Alcohol C - 9 Powerful oily floral fresh petal like, dilution - rosy.
Alcohol C - 10 Sweet slightly fatty oily waxy floral odor.
Alcohol C - 11 Lenic Fresh rather fatty odor citrusy waxy rosy, petal like note.
Aldehyde C - 8 Soft woody green mildly floral odor.
Aldehyde C - 9 Diffusive fatty floral waxy odor.
Aldehyde C - 11 Cyclic Pleasant waxy floral refreshing odor.
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor.
Aldehyde C - 11 Undecyclic Fatty odor green floral.
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric Fresh sweet waxy herbaceous clean floral odor.
Aldron Floral.
Allyl Ionone Oily sweet slight flowery, but also fruity woody bark like green.
Alpha Damascone Intense fruity reminiscent of plums and roses.
Alpha Ionone Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive.
Alpha Ionone 60 Mild floral violet odor.
Alpha Ionone White Coeur Floral violet like.
Alpha Terpineol Extra Delicately floral and sweet of lilac type.
Ambrette A fragrance with a floral musk like scent.
Ambrette XNM Sweet, but heavy floral musk odor.
Ambrettolide Floral musky sweet odor.
Ambrose Abs. A very strong green floral type fragrance.
Amyl Cinnamic Alcohol Mild oily waxy floral and sweet.
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Mild herbaceous reminiscent of many types of flowers.
A C A Di Methyl Acetal Peculiar animal green odor reminiscent of parts of jasmin.
Amyl Salicylate Sweet herbaceous green slightly floral.
Anatoly A floral material originating in Western Turkey.
Andrane A very faint nondescript odor of floral type not sweet or green.

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19 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Anisic Aldehyde Intensely sweet floral yet somewhat hay like hawthorne.
Anisyl Acetate Mildly fruity floral slightly balsamic vanilla like in plums, lilac.
Anisyl Alcohol Mildly floral sweet odor reminiscent of vanilla.
Argumen Aldehyde Floral aldehydic hyacinth type.
Aurantesin Sweet floral odor reminiscent of orange blossom.
Aurantiol Very sweet heavy floral orange blossom to linden flowers.

Balinol A green floral compound.


Benzophenone Powdery geranium rose like.
Benzyl Acetate Pw thin sweet fresh fruity floral of jasmin gardenia muguet lily.
Benzyl Butyl Ether Sweet fresh floral and somewhat chemical.
Benzyl Butyrate Heavy fruity floral, plum like.
Benzyl Iso Amyl Ether Floral fruity odor somewhat greener and herby then benzyl acetate.
Benzyl Iso Eugenol Faint rosy balsamic carnation.
Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Mild sweet honey floral.
Benzyl Salicylate Very faint sweet floral.
Beta Ionone Warm woody dry floral odor with a fruity undertone.
Bois Amberene Forte Green floral odor.
Bois De Rose Oil Floral odor reminiscent of rose orange mignoette.
Boisinal A very weak and sweet fruity floral odor.
Bonorax An extremely green floral, not excessively sweet or cloying.
Bourgenal A powerful muguet floral note.
Bromystrol Alpha Pungent sweet grassy floral odor, reminiscent of hyacinth.
Bromystrol Omega Powerful pungent floral somewhat grassy odor Rem of hyacinth.
Brouts Abs. Eau D ' Oranger Strong and tenacious odor, musty dry faintly floral.

Camomile German Typically sweet, and herbaceous.


Camomile Moroccan Similar to above and below except for a rose, honey character.
Camomile Roman Characteristic odor of the flowers, fresh, sweet, herbaceous.
Cananga Oil Java Sweet and floral, ylang ylang oil, jasmin.
Cassie Abs. Powerful strong spicy floral odor.
Cassie Bengale A spicy floral odor whose source is located in s.e. asia
Cassione Intensely sweet floral, very slightly woody powdery.
Cassis Base 345B A green fruity floral character.
Cassis A 50339/779602 Fruity green sweet and very delicate, but at same time tenacious.
Cassis D 500608 - 735395 A strong green floral slightly sweet material.
Cassis Fragrance Strong green fruity floral fragrance.
Cassis Givco Very diffusive strong green fruity floral odor.
Cetone Alpha Tenacious floral violet compound.
Chamomile Flowers AF - 26 A herbaceous reproduction of the true flower oil
Cinnamalva Powerful warm spicy oily slight floral.
Cinnamyl Acetate Sweet mild balsamic slightly floral fruity odor.
Cinnamyl Iso Valerate Fresh, but delicately floral rosy odor.
CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.

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Glen O. Brechbill 20

Citronella Oil Java Fresh and sweet revealing high content of citronellol rose odor.
Citronellol Oil Coeur Fresh, rosy, floral rosy.
Citronellol Oil Extra Purer grade, fresher rosy.
Citronellol 750 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 73 %.
Citronellol 80 Intermediate Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 83.5 %.
Citronellol 850 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 86 %.
Citronellol Last Fraction Rosy, not as sweet as a typical fresh floral rose.
Citronellyl Acetate Fresh, rosy, fruity odor reminiscent of geranium oil.
Citronellyl N Butyrate Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal like.
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor.
Citronellyl Formate Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light Rem of geranium rose.
Citronellyl Nitrile A green rose like scent almost reminiscent of citralva.
Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet herbaceous rosy, heavy and reminiscent of rose petals.
Citronellyl Propionate Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor.
Cyclal C Powerful green leafy floral.
Cyclamen Aldehyde Diffusive powerful floral green stem like odor.

Damascenia Rich sweet deep floral rose.


Damascenia Rosa Abs. Rich warm spicy floral and very deep rose odor, honey tones.
Damascenia Rosa Concrete Extremely rich deep & sweet floral truly reminiscent of pink rose.
Damascenia 185 SA Floral fruity rose odor at same time very sweet.
Damascenone A powerful floral fruity note, very natural rose plum like.
Delphone Diffusive fruity floral odor of jasmin.
Delta Damascone A hybrid floral rose compound.
Dianthanol A spicy carnation floral rose compound.
Di Benzyl Either Faint sweet odor of aubepine.
Di Hydro Floralate A light green floral lily like odor not sweet.
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol Warm spicy sweet slight floral balsamic odor.
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Fruity odor of floral jasmin.
Di Hydro Linalool Fresh floral citrusy.
Di Methyl Anthranilate Heavy orange blossom mandarin peel odor.
Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl Warm herbaceous floral reminiscent lilac, eldiflowers.
D M B C - Acetate Fresh powerful fruity floral odor of jasmin, lily.
D M B C - Propionate Sweet floral fruity of freesia, sweet pea, peony, magnolia.
Di Methyl Octanol Waxy dry rosy odor.
Di Methyl Octanyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity somewhat waxy odor.
D M Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol Soft floral green.
DIOLA Reminiscent of sweet lavender oil, herbaceous.
Di Phenyl Menthane Harsh geranium leaf, orange blossom type odor on dilution.
Di Phenyl Oxide Harsh floral green, metallic geranium rose type.
Dorina S A Floral rose specialty base extremely fresh and floral.
Dupical Floral, muguet.

Efetaal A floral type odor.

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21 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Ethyl Caproate Strong fruity winey odor of apple blossom, pineapple.


Ethyl Laurate Fatty flower petal like odor.
Ethyl Linalool Floral oily slight woody green soft odor.

Farenal Powerful intense aldehydic waxy like slightly floral.


Farnesol Oil Mildly floral delicately sweet oily fresh green odor.
Feuilles E ' Oranger Abs. Eau Floral odor of feuilles d ' oranger.
Fleuroxene A strong green floral woody non descript odor.
Fleur D ' Oranger Abs. Eau Dry floral herbaceous reminiscent of mandarin leaf oil.
Fleur D ' Oranger 175 SA Floral herbaceous odor not sweet or fruity.
Floraline Tuberose Concrete Heavy floral almost nauseating sweet heavy slightly spicy odor.
Floraline Tuberose Pommade Heavy sweet floral honey like.
Floral N A soft slightly green floral odor.
Florapal Herbal fresh floral green.
Florex A deep not sweet floral rose fragrance.
Floromat A floral green type odor.
Florosa A light sweet green floral.
Florosia A light sweet green floral.
Framboise 2222 A sweet fruity floral odor.

Geraniol Mild, and sweet floral rose.


Geraniol 60 Sweet floral rose.
Geraniol 90 Mild and sweet floral rose.
Geraniol X Palmarosa Oil Sweet and floral rose like.
Geraniol Extra Sweet floral rose coeur grade.
Geranium Algerian Lighter more rosy leafy.
Geranium Moroccan Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor.
Geranyl Acetate Sweet fruity floral rosy.
Geranyl Acetate Extra The finest sweet fruity floral rosy material available at low cost.
Geranyl Acetone Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green.
Geranyl Anthranilate Heavy sweet floral rose.
Geranyl Benzoate Faint rosy, very tenacious mildly floral.
Geranyl N Butyrate Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy odor.
Geranyl Caproate Fruity geranium rose like.
Geranyl Formate Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor.
Geranyl Iso Butyrate Sweeter then n butyrate.
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Soft floral honey rose like.
Geranyl Propionate Sweet fruity rose warm.

Hedione Warm, and sweet floral jasmin.


Helioforte Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.
Heliomet Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.
Heliotropex B - 2226 Liquid form of heliotropin, very sweet and floral.
Heliotropex N M Replacement Warm powdery floral like.

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Glen O. Brechbill 22

Heliotropine Sweet floral warm slightly spicy, in dilution - cherry pie.


Heliotropine N Liquid form of heliotropine very sweet floral slightly spicy.
Heliotropyl Acetate Very sweet light floral with distinct fruity cherry top note.
Hexalon Oily sweet slight flowery.
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Mild and sweet oily slightly floral.
Hexyl Cyclo Pentanone # 405 Powerful and diffusive dry floral green herbaceous odor.
Hexyl Salicylate Faint sweet herbaceous floral odor.
Hyacinth Body Powerful leafy green with hyacinth note.
Hydratropic Alcohol Coeur Sweet floral, but rather heavy odor of lilac, hyacinth.
Hydrofix L Sweet floral lily with a fresh green dry out.
Hydrofix R Floral lily.
Hydroxycitronellal Sweet floral mild odor of muguet.
Hydroxycitronellal X Citronellol Muguet sweet floral green, citrusy fresh.
Hysimal Floral, lily of the valley.

Indolarome Diffusive, and powerful floral in extreme dilution.


Indole Powerful choking odor, in extreme dilution - floral.
Interleven Aldehyde Waxy rose floral.
Ionone Alpha Extra Floral violet.
Ionone Alpha Regular A very diffusive orris violet.
Ionone Alpha Methyl C Floral violet.
Ionone Alpha Methyl Naphyl A very faint slightly sweet floral violet type odor.
Ionone Alpha Refined Floral violet.
Ionone Alpha White Coeur Floral violet.
Iralia A very pure orris or violet note of powdery woody character.
Iris Aldehyde Extremely powerful, and diffusive orisy odor.
Iris Concrete Woody oily violet like odor.
Iris Concrete 199 KSA Woody fatty oily but distinctly violet floral.
Irival Orris.
Irone Alpha Refined Soft warm orris violet like sweet and diffusive.
Iso Butyl Benzoate Weak fresh orisy odor.
Iso Butyl Salicylate Sweet harsh herbaceous floral.
Iso Cyclo Citral Powerful and diffusive floral green.
Iso Damascone A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex.
Iso Eugenol Mild and sweet deep floral carnation like.
Iso Eugenol # 6504 A sweet spicy warm floral odor of carnation very nice.
Iso Eugenol Ethyl Acetal Spicy floral carnation like, softer.
Iso Jasmone Isomeric floral jasmin mixture.
Iso Phytol Virtually odorless pure, carries dry leaf tea like odor.
Iso Plugeol Minty herbaceous reminiscent of first smell of tuberose.

Jacinthe 127 SA A reconstruction of the natural oil.


Jacintheme 135 SA Reminiscent of the green floral heart of hyacinth.
Jasmal Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor.

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23 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Jasmaprunate Fruity like apple jasmin dry slight green like wild grapes.
Jasmin # 187 A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex.
Jasmin Abs. Floral jasmin not overly sweet like cananga oil.
Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn. A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.
Jasmin Abs. Italian Max. The purest heart of the floral jasmin.
Jasmin Egyptian An extremely fine floral jasmin fragrance.
Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt A sweet strong jasmin green floral petal like odor.
Jasmolactone Sweet fruity floral jasmin.
Jasmo Lactone CNC Oily fruity floral petal like odor.
Jasmonyl Intensely sweet floral jasmin.
Jessemal Herbaceous floral jasmin.

Kir Base # 9741 Woody floral complex with amber violet note.
Koavone Woody floral complex with amber violet note.

Lactone CIS Jasmone # 114 Soft floral odor of jasmin.


Lactone CIS Jasmone # 411 Floral waxy jasmin absolute character.
Laevo Citronellol Fresh and light rosy leafy.
Lavandin Abrialis Sweet floral herbaceous lavandin.
Lavandin Abs. Strong herbaceous with a camphoraceous character.
Lavandin Abs. In Color Powerful camphoraceous herbaceous floral type odor.
Lavandin Concrete Captures the heart of the sweet lavandin flower.
Lavandin Grosso Sweet balsamic herbaceous.
Lavandin Grosso C - 8713 Sweet herbaceous slightly camphoraceous lavandin.
Lavender Abs. Barren Green Powerful balsamic camphoraceous, herbaceous floral odor.
Lavender 40/42 Sweet floral herbaceous.
Lavender Oil Spiked Typically sweet, balsamic and herbaceous.
Lavender Oil Spike Sub. 2707 Fresh herbaceous lavender like.
Liffarome Violet green.
Lilial Sweet yet refreshing floral green.
Lile Strallis 22 Fresh light green floral, reminiscent of lilial.
Linalool Floral.
Linalool Intermediate Light and refreshing floral woody odor.
Linalool Oxide Powerful sweet woody floral.
Linalool Terpenes Floral woody iris, quite harsh odor not pleasant.
Linalyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity odor, bergamot pear.
Linalyl Benzoate Balsamic floral bergamot fruity odor.
Linalyl Butyrate Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like.
Linalyl Formate Fresh citrusy green bergamot like.
Linalyl Iso Butyrate More floral less fruity then n butyrate.
Linalyl Propionate Fruity floral fresh very sweet bergamot.
Lychee Green floral, very pleasant in extreme dilution.
Lyral Delicately sweet, light and floral.

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Glen O. Brechbill 24

Mallow A slightly green sweet floral fragrance.


Merion A diffusive floral oriental woody complex.
Methoxy Ortho Cinnamic Ald. Sweet and warm spicy floral.
Methyl Acetophenone Pungent harsh warm sweet odor.
Methyl Acetyl Anthranilate Floral linden blossom not nice.
Methyl Anisate Sweet herbaceous delicately floral odor.
Methyl Anthranilate Musty, fruity & dry floral odor reminiscent of concord grapes.
Methyl Benzaldehyde Warm mildly floral sweet spicy odor of benzaldehyde.
Methyl Benzoate Heavy sweet deep floral odor reminiscent of tropical flowers.
Methyl Hexyl Ketone Pleasant floral bitter green, slightly musty.
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Orris violet floral.
Methyl Ionone Extra Mild floral odor of violets.
Methyl Ionone Gamma A A floral violet woody isomeric mixture.
Methyl Ionone Gamma X Mild floral odor of violets.
Methyl Ionone Regular Mild floral odor of violets.
Methyl I G Replacer Familiar woody floral complex, tobacco like undertone.
Methyl Iso Residue Harsh floral violet slight woody.
Methyl I G Supreme Floral violet woody fruity comlplex.
Methyl Ionone Tails A harsh woody floral violet odor, reminiscent of ionone beta.
Methyl Iso Eugenol Sweet and warm mild floral tea like slightly spicy.
Methyl Jasmonate Powerful herbaceous floral.
Methyl Lavandin Ketone Floral sweet lavandin like.
Methyl Lavender Ketone Sweet floral lavender.
Methyl Nonyl Ketone Fruity rosy orange like.
Methyl Octine Carbonate Green violet leaf like.
Methyl Para Cresol Sharp and sweet, dilution - ylang, hyacinth & wallflower.
Methyl Phenyl Carbinol Earth green reminiscent of gardenia and hyacinth.
Methyl Tuberate Floral most likely tuberose, rose like material not sweet.
Mimosa Abs. Essence A green floral delicately mimosa like.
Mimosa Abs. Morocco Powerful floral green.
Mimosa Odor Essence Green floral capturing the heart of the mimosa flower.
Mirabelle 2000 A fruity floral creation.
Muguet Aldehyde 50 Diffusive green muguet lily type odor.
Mugone 207M A faintly sweet muguet floral odor extremely viscous.

Neo Jasmin # 937 Sweet floral jasmin.


Neral Crude 88 % Sweet floral citral lemony floral.
Nerol Sweet rosy refreshing wet seashore like.
Nerol A Sweet rosy refreshing.
Nerol Petals Sweet rosy leafy refreshing.
Nerol Special A fresh sea shore like floral rose.
Neroli Bigarrade Moroccan Sweet spicy orange blossom obtained from sour orange.
Nerolidol Mild and delicately floral slight green reminiscent of apple lily.

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25 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Nerolin Bromelia Crystals Soft floral.


Neryl Acetate Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose.
2,6, Nonadienal # 332 Intense powerful vegetable green, reminiscent of violet leaves.
2,6,Nona 1 al Diethyl Acetal Smooth floral violet, melon odor.

Octanol 2 A floral rosy fresh odor.


Octanol Nitrile 10 B - 2216 A rosy floral odor.
Octyl Formate Powerful, and relatively diffusive fruity green orris.
Oranger Crystals Sweet and very tenacious orange blossom.
Oranger Liquid Sweet floral rather harsh orange blossom.
Orris Concrete A floral green violet like odor.
Orris Oil Floral violet.
Orris Resin Abs. Floral violet.
Orris Resinoid A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.
Osmantha Floral.
Osmanthus CC Abs. A sweet floral jasmin odor slightly green.
Osmanthus NT 5232 A sweet floral jasmin odor.
Oxyertaline Formate A faint green slightly sweet floral door.

Palmarosa Oil Sweet floral rosy odor.


Para Cresyl Acetate Lily like odor.
Para Cresyl Iso Butyrate Pronounced lily narcisus like odor.
Para Cresyl Methyl Floral odor of wallflower, and ylang ylang.
Para Cresyl Phenyl Acetate Floral odor of lily, hyacinth, jonquil.
Para Cresyl Redistilled Floral odor.
Para Methyl Quinoline Powerful and penetrating, dilution - sweet floral and tobacco like.
Para Methoxy Acetophenone Sweet, but somewhat harsh hay like odor.
Parmavert Powerful floral green, sweet and violet leaf like.
Petilyn A very delicate and faint light green floral.
Petitgrain Bigarade Oil Pleasant fresh floral sweet odor.
Petitgrain Citronner Oil Distinct and pleasant, a fresh lemony floral woody odor.
Petitgrain Oil Moroccan A fresh lemony floral woody odor extremely tenacious.
Petitgrain Oil S A A fresh lemony floral woody odor.
Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless Diffusive less better sweet floral woody odor.
Petitgrainol Intensely woody neroli note.
Phenoxanal Fresh floral rose.
Phenoxy Ethanol Mild rosy, but also metallic.
Phenoxy Ethyl Alcohol Mild honey rose odor.
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Sweet fruity rosy floral.
Phenyl Di Methyl Acetal Powerful green earthy flower stem like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetal Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Mild and warm rose honey like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate Very faint floral balsamic odor reminiscent of dry rose petals.

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Glen O. Brechbill 26

Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate Very faint and sweet pleasant balsamic rosy odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity tea rose type.
Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Powerful diffusive, dilution - jasmin tobacco like.
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Heavy and very sweet floral balsamic odor, musky honey like.
Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate Floral possibly faintly rosy pratically no odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.
Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Faint, but sweet and delicate balsamic floral.
Phenyl Propyl Acetate Fresh floral powerful fruity green.
Phenyl Propyl Alcohol Warm and mild balsamic floral, sweet odor.
Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde Floral hyacinth, lilac, balsamic green.
Phixia Sweet, floral at first delicate refreshing mild.
Phytia Abs. Powerful floral herbaceous balsamic, not sweet.
Phytol Delicate floral balsamic notes reminiscent of nerolidol, farnesol.
Pivarose Floral tea rose.
Piviane 2 A sweet rosy floral fragrance.
Polarose Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor.
Pseudo M I Terpenes A harsh floral violet like odor.

Racinia A dry floral rose complex.


Reseda Body Delicate, but powerful hyacinth, narcisus, reseda note.
Rhodinol X Citronella Naturally sweet rosy floral.
Rhodinol Coeur Geranium rose.
Rhodinyl Acetate Sweet, light refreshing rose muguet, green leafy notes.
Rhodinyl N Butyrate Intensely sweet mellow fruity deep rosy.
Rhodinyl Formate Fresh leafy green delicate rosy.
Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet, very deep soft honey like rose.
Rhodinyl Propionate Rich and sweet fruity floral rose geranium type.
Rhodinyl Salicylate Very weak sweet rosy powdery balsamic odor.
Rhodinyl Valerate Heavy fruity, slightly earthy green, but also sweet odor.
Rosacene A nice light delicate floral rose compound not overly sweet.
Rosalva Powerful fatty oily, waxy rose odor.
Rose Abs. Moroccan Extremely fresh and sweet floral rose odor.
Rose Abs. Turkey A tenacious diffusive sweet floral, truly captures fresh flower.
Rose Crystals Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor.
Rose Essence 193 A very strong, but yet sweet floral rosy fresh odor.
Rose Essence Bulgare A very diffusive vivacious rose odor, slightly sweet floral nice.
Rosemary Oil Woody herbaceous, reminiscent of spike lavender oil.
Rose Nitrile Rich rose geranium woody iris.
Rose Oil Moroccan Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose.
Rose Oil Moroccan Select The finest moroccan rose fragrance at an attractive cost.
Rose Oil Templar A typical sweet rose odor whose source is rooted in English lore.
Rose Oil Turkey Diffusive strong vibrant floral rose scent reminiscent of the rose.

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27 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Rose Oil Turkey Commercial An extremely floral typical rose odor, not intense over powering.
Rose Oil Turkish Sweet floral rose.
Rose Orient Intensely rose like, mysterious, diffusive, rounded and nice.
Rose Oxide R Reminiscent of rose geranium.

Scennal A fresh green floral lily type odor.


Scentennal Powerful green refreshing watery floral.
Schiff Base Methyl Anthranilate/Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde.
Schiff Base Methyl Anthranilate/Hydroxycitronellal.
Schiff Base Methyl Anthranilate/Lilial.
Schiff Base Methyl Anthranilate/Triplal.
Sclarene A very faint, but yet sweet floral odor.
Sino Citral Fresh citral lemony with a floral background.
Styrallyl Acetate Powerful and penetrating green floral in dilution.
Styallyl Alcohol Dry floral earthy green, lilac, jasmin, mimosa, type odor.
Styrallyl Propionate Balsmaic green floral type odor.
Styrax Essence CD Has a pleasant balsamic odor recalling hyacinth and hawthorne.
Styrax Clarified Sweet balsamic odor with a hyacinth like floral background.
Styrax Provence Essence Sweet balsamic odor, floral in extreme dilution.
Styrax Purified Sweet balsamic odor with a hyacinth tuberose background.
Sweet Pea Resembles orange blossom, hyacinth and a touch of rose.
Sweet Pea Double Not sweet strong or heavy floral odor.
Syringa Floral odor of muguet and neroli oil.
Syringa 1523 Soft and very tenacious floral odor.

Terpineol Extra Delicate floral sweet lilac type perfume grade.


Terpineol Prime Delicate floral sweet lilac.
Terpineol 350 Delicately floral reminscent of lilac.
Tepyl Acetate Oily herbaceous floral and sweet earthy odor.
Tetra Hydra Linalool Sweet oily and delicately floral.
Tetra Hydra Mugol Fresh sweet floral odor.
Tetralide Musky powdery floral.
The 71795 Tea/Floral.
Tolu Balsam Oil Warm balsamic and hyacinth like.
Tolu Balsam Alva Essence A tenacious diffusive balsamic hyacinth in dilution like.
Tolu Balsam Resinoid Warm and balsamic hyacinth like.
Tolyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity and mildly green.
Trans De Cadro Beta Naphyl Floral rosy.
Trans 4 Decenal # 382 Has a fruity rose aldehydic character.
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate Fruity floral.
Tuberanthia S A Tuberose
Tuberose Abs. A heavy sweet almost nauseating floral odor of tuberose.
Tuberose Pommade A heavy sweet almost overpowering tuberose odor.

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Glen O. Brechbill 28

Undecavertol Strong, however not over powering slightly green floral odor.

Vanoris Woody fruity, soft refreshing odor of mild orris type.


Vartol # 915 Floral rose type odor very dry.
Velutone Faint, but sweet floral fruity odor.
Violet Abs. French Strong herbaceous floral violet.
Violet Abs. Rue Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the french oil.
Violet Abs. Selection Strong floral violet odor.
Violet Colorless 54.5219 Herbaceous floral odor of the violet.
Violet Leaf Abs. N.Y. 11149 Green floral violet, very subtle slight sweet.
Violet F ' Builles Abs. Slightly violet, not strong or sweet.

Wild Pimento Oil Resembles spike lavender oil.

X.I. Aldehyde Powerful hay melon ozone note, floral aspect.

Yara Yara Crystals Intensely sweet orange blossom, acacia like.


Ylang Ylang Abs. Intensely sweet floral, and very diffusive odor.
Ylang Ylang Complete Powerful, and intensely sweet, but also soft balsamic floral odor.
Ylang Ylang Concrete Rich sweet, and intensely floral.
Ylang Ylang Oil Sweet floral, and intensely floral.
Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Very powerful floral intensely sweet of cresylic benzoate type.
Ylang Ylang " First " In between quality generally a mixture of different fractions.
Ylang Ylang " Second " In between quality generally a mixture of different fractions.

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29 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Floral

FLORAL FLORAL

A floral fragrance owes its nature to flower blossoms that may differ from one another. Rose materials such
as Citronellol, Geraniol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol predominate. Again Jasmine in combination with rose
ingredients are the central part of this theme. By adding carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, iris and others a pure-
ly floral effect can be achieved. Today more synthetic ingredients including the use of artificial bases are uti-
lized due to the high cost and unavailability of essential oils. For example, a fine fragrance such as Chanel # 5
created by Ernst Breaux in 1923 would smell entirely different today.

Top Bergamot 3 % - Dry

Jasmin, Rose, Violet Green Fruity

Middle Jasmin 10 %

Rose 24 % - Warm, Violet 3 %, Muguet 3 % Floral

Lilac 1 %, Carnation 6 %

Base Musk 6.5 % Warm

Tonka - Trace, Sandal 1 %, Moss - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Hercolyn - D 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 25 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 30

Floral Floral # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Oakmoss Givco 214 1 Top Rose ABQ 5644


6 Cedrafix 18 Linalool
28 Traseolide 700 Base 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Civet Tincture 5 DMBC - Acetate
7 Di Hydro Coumarex 1 Bergamal
24 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Undecatriene
3 Helioforte 1 Geranyl Linalool
12 Sandalwood Substitute 4 Verdantiol
8 Benteine .1 Fleurs d’Oranger abs. artess
39 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Cyclrose
1 Alpha Damascone 11 Phenylethylacetate
3 Gardenia Ether 14 Terpineol Perfume Grade
98 Hedione .1 Rose Oil Templar
3 Helional 8 Iraldeine 100 %
14 Eugenol 12 Linalyl Acetate
35 Hercolyn - D .2 Mirabeeel 2000 D
8 Cyclosia Base .1 Folione
6 Di Hydro Eugenol 3 Santalol
27 Citronellol 1 Strawberry Aroma Base
48 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Tuberose Oliffac
4 Super Cepionate 4 Iononyl Acetate
1 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Acetato Geraniol
9 Di Metil Octanol 1 Muguet Alcohol
38 Muguet Base
8 alpha - Ionone
7 Anisic Aldehyde - Basf Germany 1,000
275 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Phixia
.1 Alcool C - 9
1 Poirinate
3 Appila Augaflor 5
175 Geraniol
3 Sweet Pea
.1 Myrrh Essence

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31 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Alcool Benzilico 1 Bitter Orange Ivory Coast Oil


4 Brahmanol 4 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
1 Moss Oliffac .1 Nonadienal
64 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Iris Beurre Essence
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 MDJ
.1 Civet Base # 9 6 Indian Santal Core
1 Amber Core 3 Lilivert
73 Benzyle Acetate .1 Narcissus abs. - France
10 Iso E Super 25 Linalol Coeur
18 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 1 Jasmone
7 Traseolide .1 Love - in - idleness
12 Eugenol 2 Merion
3 Fleuramone 53 Linalyl acetate Pure FCC
33 Carnation Base 4 alpha - Ionone
1 Rosone .1 Rose Absolute - Turkey
3 Eugenol, Iso 1 Orinox
15 Jasmin Province Base 3 Lyral
1 Iso Rose 2 Jasmonyl Acetate
4 Cashmeran 4 Scennal
15 Ionone Alpha 60 .1 Leaf Acetal
35 Hercolin - D 1 Abies Alba Needle Oil
8 Citronellol 750 4 Neryl Acetate
4 Massada 1 Tangerinol
1 Helioforte
16 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
163 Geraniol
1 Troenan
5 Benteine
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Tangerine, C.P. Brazil
1 Carnation Augaflor
13 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Florymoss
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

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Glen O. Brechbill 32

Floral Floral # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

63 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Cananga


4 Helional 3 Peomosa
.1 Civet Augaflor 3 .1 Leaf Alcohol
38 Hercolyn - D 4 Jasmin
9 Sandalwood Substitute 9 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - Acetate
.1 Musk Abs. C’Less .1 Ylang Heart No. 3
5 Vanillin 11 Peach Aroma Base
26 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 9 - Decen - 1 - OL
.1 Mousse Essence Abs. 4 Lily Hexanol
3 Anisalcohol 1 Meranol
1 Damascenone 19 Linalol
34 Benzylsalicylate 1 Cassione
51 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Pamplemousse E. Blanc
3 Coumone .1 Rose Oil Otto
4 Hydroxycitronellol 97 % .1 Nonadienal
9 Lindenol 11 Linalyl Acetate
8 Citronellol 4 Methyl Amyl Ketone
6 Anisic Aldehyde - Basf Germany 2 Nerol 90 %
1 Benzophenone 5 Iridales
3 Ethyl Vanisal 7 2 - n - Hexyl Cyclopentanone
37 Rose Base # 60 4 Sandalore
4 Methyl Heptenone 3 Floral N
119 Geraniol
1 Orris Oil
83 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
9 Cetonal V
304 Di Propileno Glico
8 Lyral
9 Methyl Iso Eguenol
7 Ionone Alpha 60
39 Benzyl Acetate
3 Apple Blossom
7 Bergamot Oils
.1 Alcohol C - 8
4 Scennal

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33 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Orange 5 %

Hexyl Salicylate 1 % Strawberry 1 %, Muguet 2 %, Bergamot 3 % Fruity

Lavender 3 %

Middle Jasmin 8 %

Violet 9 %, Rose 6 % Floral


Powdery - Cedarwood & Aubepine
Hawthorn 5 %, Lily 2 %, Lilac 4 %

Base Cedar 4 %

Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 3 %, Musk 2 % Powdery

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 34

Floral Floral # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

2 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 11 Linalool


38 Cedarwood Oil Texas .1 Alcohol C - 10
9 Sandalore 4 p - Cresyl Methyl Ether
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Turpentine Oil, Portugal
11 Coumarin Substitute .4 Methyl Cinnimate
1 Styrax Oil Honduras 16 Hydroxycitronellal
27 Powdery Base 35 Geraniol
5 Cedrafix 4 Vetiveryl Acetate Popular
11 Sanjinol .1 Germacrene D’Natural 40 % PC 192
3 Heliotropine .1 Damascenone
1 Anisyl Alcohol 16 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
5 Cedro ( Arvore ) 51 Orange Guinea
22 Galaxolide 50 2 Tuberose Augaflor 25
9 Amyris 1 Vertifloreol
6 Vanillin 3 Aldehyde C - 24 Poire
15 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal 8 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
7 Cedrenyl Acetate 4 Myraldyl Acetate
10 Lilie 3 Nectarine
3 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
61 Hedione 25 Linalyl Acetate
47 Aubepine 3 Nerol 96 %
1 Irone V 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
9 Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 4 Lysmeral
75 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Rosewood Texas Rectified
34 Terpineol 3 Iso Amyl Geranate
292 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Muguet Alcohol
3 Elintaal Forte 1 Neroli Artessence
22 Jasmin Artificial Base .1 Florane
5 Iso Raldeine 95 1 Gelsol F
4 Citronellol
17 Benzophenone
1,000

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35 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzoato Benzila 6 Galbanum Givco 121


8 Vanillina ( China ) .1 Alcool C - 9
41 Cedarwood Texas Oil 1 Maive Sylvestris Mall
23 Benzophenone 14 Bergamot Oil Substitute
44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Methyl Jasmonate
29 Sandalwood Extender .1 Tagetes Afrique Du Sed
1 Rose Crystals 17 Hexyl Salicylate
24 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Stawberry pure
1 Tonquitone Super 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Vanillin, ethyl .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Anisyl Alcohol 1 Iso Damascone
19 Coumane .1 Violet Leaf Oil Abs.
48 Aubepine 2 Syringa Aldehyde
1 Iso Jasmone 14 Lavender 58/52
22 Powdery Base .1 Neroli Oxide
65 Hedione 2 Jasmorogne
12 Acetate Benzila Fenil .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
1 Musk Ambrette 3 Lysmeral
3 Heliotropine .1 2, 6 Nonadienal # 332
6 Citronellol 4 Iso Raldeine 95
4 Sandalore 1 Neryl Acetate
9 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Fraisse 3333 SA
12 Ionones For Soap 53 Orange Oil Juicy
5 Leonile 3 Para Cresyl Redistilled
301 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Muguet Aldehyde
54 Geraniol 98 1 Cassia Bark Oil China
28 Terpineol Prime 4 y - Irone
71 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
6 Hydroxycitronellal
3 Hawthorne 1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill 36

Floral Floral # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Ethopian Tincture 5 Lavender Oil 40/42


23 Benzophenone 6 Strawberry pure
1 Bisabolene 23 Linalyl Acetate
26 Cedre Atlas .1 Styrax Essence
41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 14 Hexyle Salicylate
18 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 6 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
.1 Musk Abs. C’Less .1 Aldehyde C - 10
21 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 Nerol
49 Hawthorn 53 Orange Oil Florida Valencia C.P.
11 Benzyle Phenyl Acetate 1 Jasilyn
18 Cou Marin .3 Fraisberry
9 Benteine 4 Ionone - alpha
16 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Bergamot Oil Substitute
8 Sandalwood 12 Muguet Aldehyde 50
7 Vanilina 3 Iso Jasmone
67 Claigeon ( MDJ ) 8 Linalol
10 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Muguet Augaflor 16
28 Powdery Base .1 Nonadienal
.1 Oakwood Extract 1 Bergamot Ivory Coast
7 Citronellol 750 .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Vanillin, ethyl .1 Rose Orient
3 Para Cresyl redistilled 3 Hydrofix R
71 Iraldeine Standard Substitute .1 Rosa Damascenia
8 Muguesia 6 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
53 Geraniol 3 Geranium over Roses
4 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Lavender Oil Std.
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Massada
281 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
37 Lilac Base
4 Methyl Cedrylone 1,000

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37 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Pineapple 1 %

Lime 1 %, Bergamot 7 %, Neroli .5 % Fruity Sweet

Melon .75 %, Apple .5 %, Pear 1 %


Middle
Jasmin 10 %

Cinnamic Alcohol 1 % Carnation 2 %, Rose 9 %, Muguet 6 % Floral Fresh


Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 %
Violet 3 %

Base Galbanum 1.5 %

Moss - Trace, Amber - Trace, Sandalwood 3 % Sweet Mossy

Musk 3 %, Styrax .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 38

Floral Floral # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

15 Galbanum Res. 3918P 31 Linalool 98 %


3 Benzoin Gum Siam # 3 - Laos .1 Vanilla - Mexican
29 Benzylsalicylate 4 Perryfix
4 Styrax Resinoid 5 Tangerine Oil CP Clear
28 Galaxolide 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Palmarosa Oil Guatamala
6 Cedarwood Morocco 3 cis - 3 - Heyl Acetate
3 Amber Substitute 4 Viridine
.1 Galbanum Resinoid Artessence .1 The
5 Anthea SandalCoeur 1 Cypriol, light
5 Gardenia Oil 3 Pearalate
4 Kephalis 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
14 Osyrol 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
43 Hexil Cinnamic Aldeido 4 Sandal, Asia
26 Laurine 3 Anapear - Givaudan
5 Irone 9 Melonyl 86471 VMF
11 Cinnamic Alcohol .1 Rose Oxide L
38 Muguet Base 5 Dimetol
1 Rose Acetate 48 Linalyl Acetate S 96
4 Cedrenyl Acetate 4 Neroli Oliffac
10 Meijiff .3 Cyclal - C
5 Citronellol - Basf 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
19 Ionone For Soap .1 Rosewood Essence
73 Geraniol .1 Leaf Alcohol
5 Anis Alehyde 1 Cassia FN 10745
324 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
6 Nerolidol
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
1 Iso Jasmone
1 Benzophenone
97 Benzyl Acetate
1 Undecavertol
3 Lavender Flower
1 Poirenate

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39 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 38 Linalol synthetique


29 Etilen Brasilate 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
14 Galbanum Givco 121 11 Ally Amyl Glycolate
3 Koavonne 3 Ripe Pear
1 Moss Oliffac 52 Muguet Base
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Poirinate
3 Sandela 10 Dimetol
4 Iso - Eugenol 9 Bergamot Oil Substitute
29 Benzylsalicylate 4 Trifernal
6 Styrax Coeur 6 Neroli Oliffac
9 Sandalwood Oil odor type compound 3 Perryfix
10 Cinnamic Alcohol 7 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
17 Iso Eugenol Replacement 24 Linalyl Acetate
6 Laurine 4 Pine Tree Siberia
37 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Anapear - Givaudan
19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 1 Berzoate De Methyle
1 Javanol 1 Neroly
3 Hydroxycitronellal A 5 Bonorax
5 Methyl Cedryl Ketone .4 Evening Primrose Oil
22 Citronellol .2 Floreal
3 Gardenia Acetal .1 Methyl Tuberate pure
1 Rosone .1 Trimofix “O”
12 Ionone Alpha
2 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
315 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
8 Melonyl 86471 VMF
.1 Rosalva
103 Acetate De Benzyle
62 Geraniol
4 Nepalva
3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
.1 Undecavertol
1 Vern Aldehyde
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
2 Top Muguet 18.326
3 Anapear

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Glen O. Brechbill 40

Floral Floral # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Base 3 Poirinate


.1 Mousse Essence Abs. 5 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
29 Musk Ambrette Substitute 28 Linalool Nat.
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 DMBC - Acetate
1 Rose Crystals 4 Levenalis
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 3 Top Muguet 18.326
35 Benzylsalicylate 13 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
9 Galbanum - Iran 45 Linalyl Acetate ( Ex Citrata )
.1 Civet 241 Oliffac 3 Viridine
10 alpha - Ionone .3 Rose Oil Moroccan Select
43 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Meijiff
6 Styrax Clarified 4 Di Hydro Myrcenol
101 Acetate De Benzyle 8 Nerol
3 Comfrey .1 Ciclal - C
26 Iso Raldeine Substitute 5 Neroli Oliffac
.1 Boise De Gaiac 4 Anapear - Givaudan
9 Cinnamic Alcohol 8 Alpha Ionone White Coeur
55 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 6 Methyl Iso Eugenol
8 Citronellol .1 Perryfix
13 Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 111 Lenic
1 Iso Jasmone 4 Tilanol Super
3 Peomosa 3 Nerol
8 Dupical 1 White Grapefruit Israeli Oil
6 Laurine Extra
3 Cedrenyl Acetate
9 Iraldeine 100 % 1,000
304 Di Propileno Glico
3 Applinal
77 Geraniol
4 Scennal
3 Pearlate
5 Methoxymelonal
3 Glycoflor
.1 Undecavertol
6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
9 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
8 Lime Oil C.P. Mexico

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41 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Peach 1 %

Lime 3 %, Lemon 2 %, Bergamot 5 %, Floral Fruity

Pineapple 1 %

Middle Lilac 1 %

Amyl Salicylate 1 % Muguet 5 %, Lavender 4 %, Violet 3 % Floral


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Rose 5 % - Sweet, Carnation 4 %, Jasmin 2 %

Base Tonka 1 %

Sandalwood 3 %, Cedarwood 2 % Woody

Cutters

Benzyl Propionate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 42

Floral Floral # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

28 Sandela .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA


13 Cou Marin 38 Lavender Oil Provenzo
.1 Moss Oliffac 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
10 Benzyle Propionate 8 Nectaryl
3 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
.1 Civet Abs. 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
25 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Lavender Oil
24 Cedar Atlantic Oil 10 Aldeido C - 14
3 Heliotropine 24 Linalool - China natural
8 Benteine 6 Myrac Aldehyde
12 Amyl Salicylate 3 Sandafleur
2 Iso Jasmon 1 Pimento
5 Anisaldehyde 3 Orangeflor
33 Eugenol 22 Di Hydro Myrcenol
51 Hydroxycitronellal Aub AB 2040 .2 Aldehyde 13 - 13
15 Amil Cinamico Aldeido 37 Linalyl Acetate
4 Cedramber 1 Ionone 100 %
75 Lilac Base 32 Lemon Ivory Coast
22 Cepionate 1 Perryfix
4 Flor De Larange Eter 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Floramat
27 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Strawberry pure
8 Citronellol 50 1 Muguet Alcohol
13 Benzyl Iso Eugenol Forte
9 Lyral
54 Geraniol 1,000
11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
280 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
7 Iso, Eugenol
6 Methyl Iso Eugenol
1 Florymoss
4 Triplal
.1 Black Currant Bud Absoflor
3 Citronica

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43 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Okumal .1 Alcohol C - 9
32 Iso E Super 53 Muguet Base
3 Sandalore .1 Rose Oil Otto Bulgaria
.1 Evernyl 114 Linalol S97
4 Patchouli Oil F 867 5 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - A
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Undecavertol
9 Galbanum Resinoide .1 Violiff
11 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Geraniol 600
14 Laurine Extra 11 Verdox
1 Vanilla Bean Clair 1 Sur Fleurs d’oranger Oil
11 Peonile 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50
75 Super Cepionate 27 Linalyl Acetate
5 Brahmanol .1 Folione
2 Javanol 3 Di Ethyl Malonate
9 Lilial 5 Florhydral
68 Ionone For Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Methyl Para Cresole 3 Neroli Bigarad
8 Citronellol 1 Styrallyl Acetate
11 Iso Amyl Geranate 8 Tangerine, Florida
12 Gardenia Base 3 Nerol
36 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Top Galbanum 18.326 SAB
23 Aubepine .1 Methyl Tuberate
5 Geranyl Acetate .1 Geranio Bourbon
9 Lavende Verte
338 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
15 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 1,000
34 Geraniol
3 Anisalcohol
5 Lyral
8 Ionone Alpha 60
33 Galaxolide 50
1 Poirinate
3 Galbanodor
2 Florymoss
6 Triplal

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Glen O. Brechbill 44

Floral Floral # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .1 Rose Glycol


12 Alicate 4 Eugenyl Acetate
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Vanillin 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
29 Sandela 7 Myrac Aldehyde
11 Benzyle Propionate 1 Thyme White Oil
6 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
7 Koavonne .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
22 Acetato Benzila 22 Lemon P.G.
9 Ionone Alpha 24 Linalool Ex Bdr
10 Salicylate D’Amyle 1 Acetate De Geranyle
.1 Adoxal .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
9 Di Metil Phenyl Etil Carbinol 1 Florosia
85 Lilac Base 1 Pepperwood
3 Pommerol 4 Lyrame
15 Lavender Oil 3 Nerol
22 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 22 Di Hydro Myrcenol
9 Citronellol 750 2 Concord Grape, Red
13 Eugenol .3 Iso Rose
1 Vanilla Resinoid 33 Linalyl Acetate
51 Geraniol 98 6 Menthanyl Acetate
33 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Jasmone
6 Diola 5 Benzyl Iso Eugenol
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
299 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
15 Ionone Alpha Refined 1,000
1 Rose Crystals
11 Methyl Iso Eugenol
3 Anisaldehyde
24 Cedarwood Oil Port Orford
26 Lyral
33 Methyl Lavender Ketone
4 Methyl Pamplemousse
3 Cassie Egypt
11 Aldeido C - 14
9 Triplal

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45 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Violet Notes

Lime 1.25 %, Rose, Bergamot 5 % Green

Orange 2 %, Basil 1 %
Middle
Jasmin 6 %
Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Rose 26 %, Muguet 6 %, Violet 3 % Floral
Cinnamic Alcohol 1 %
Lilac 5 %, Carnation 1 %

Base Resin Tolu 1 %

Sandalwood 1 %, Vanilla 2 %, Moss - Trace Light Balsamic

Myrrh - Trace, Patchouli .5 %, Styrax .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 46

Floral Floral # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Styrax Resinoide 4 Vanilla Inco 3


1 Rose Crystals 27 Lyral
12 Vanillin .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Malus Sylvestris Mill - Apple
9 Patchouli Oil - Light Color 1 Jasmonyl
6 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 22 Orange Oil Sweet - US
10 Salicylate D’Amyl 4 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
1 Mousse De Chenne 8 Dihydromyrcenol
23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Myrrh Resinoid Washed .1 Methyl Octin Carbonate Substitute
6 Hyacinth Body # 1 1 Ciclal - C
65 Benzyl Acetate 7 Hydroxyciol
11 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Menthanyl Acetate
8 Cinnamic Alcohol .2 Alcohol C - 9
10 Eugenol 23 Orange Florida Valencia
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Verdyl Propionate
8 Methyl Cedryl Ketone .1 Bramble Florida Water
7 Citronellol 1 Neryl Acetate
3 Acetate D’Iso Eugenyl 4 Litsea Cubeba Oil
10 Osyrol 7 Orange Aldeido
11 Iraldeine Substitute 9 Alpha Ionone 70 %
45 Geraniol 60 3 Jasilyn
48 Terpineol Prime
3 Hysimal
304 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
1 Cetonal
11 Iso Eugenol Replacement
25 Methyl Ionone Gamma
.1 Rosalva
19 Lilial
87 Phenylethylalcohol
1 1, 3, 5 Undecatriene FCC
.1 Aldehyde C - 10
.3 Methyl Heptenon
1 Cassia Oil - Viet Nam

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47 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Amyris Oil E.I. .1 Aldehyde C - 10


5 Patchouli Crude 9 Di Hydro Myrcenol
23 Benzylsalicylate 1 Tuberose Augaflor 25
12 Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
10 Resin Tolu Substitute 23 Linalool
.1 Evernyl .1 2, 6 Nonadienal # 332
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Anisylalcohol
53 Super Cepionate .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
4 Indisan 11 Mehtyl Ionone For Soap
11 Amyl Salicylate 9 Dimetol
6 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 4 Methyl Pamplemousse
12 Cinnamique Alcool .1 Alcool C - 8
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 38 Linalyl Acetate
28 Iraldeine Substitute 4 Verdyl Propionate
5 Styrax Eal Resinoid 3 Neroli Oliffac
4 Iso - Eugenol 2 OJ Carbinyl STV
9 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Rose Turkey
7 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Orange Flower Water Tunisia
9 Kephalis .1 Violet Leaf
143 Geraniol 60 1 Iso Rose
7 Iso Eugenol Replacement 4 Florhydral
5 Hyacinth PP 3 Geranyl Acetate
2 Javanol 3 Tilanol NP
14 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 1 Melfloral
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs.
23 Citronellol Pure
306 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
5 Cetone V
3 Eugenol USP
1 Rose Acetate
47 Lilac Base
3 Boisnal
39 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
22 Orange Oil Florida C.P. Valencia
6 Verdyl Acetate

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Glen O. Brechbill 48

Floral Floral # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Sandalwood Oil Nardanised 1 Vetynal Extra


.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 4 Muguet Aldehyde
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 23 Orange Oils
1 Mousse De Chenne 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
4 Sandela 1 Carnaline
5 Tolu Resinoid 10 Terpineol P.G.
12 Vanillin 5 Verdyl Acetate
10 Amyl Salicylate .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lenic
6 Patchouli Cark .1 Folione
65 Benzyle Acetate 29 Linalyl Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 8 9 Dimetol
29 Iraldeine Standard Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
24 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Methyl Jasmonate
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 7 Verdyl Propionate
1 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 4 Eugenyl Acetate
9 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
12 Styrax Clarified 3 Basil, Sweet
10 Cinnamique Alcool .1 Undecatriene
.6 Sandiff .1 Tea Essence
3 Anther 1 Heliotropin Di Ethyl Acetal
97 Geraniol .1 Rose Otto Oil
14 Hyacinth Base 1 Petilyn
9 Lyrame Super 24 Ionone Alpha
1 Rose Crystals
299 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Hyacinth Body # 1 1,000
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol
7 Iso Eugenol Replacement
1 Methyl Para Cresole
79 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Aldehyde C - 10
14 Linalol
63 Muguet Base
27 Citronellol

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49 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Basil 1 %

Orange 5 %, Bergamot 4 % - Fruity, Green Notes Floral Herbaceous

Middle Rose 14 % - Sweet

Hexyl Salicylate 2 % Lavender 4 %, Violet 3 %, Muguet 5 % Floral


Terpinyl Acetate 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 % Vanilla 4 %

Base Tonka 1 %, Musk 2 %, Sandalwood 3 % Sweet

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 50

Floral Floral # 6a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Orange Sweet USA


27 Sandalwood Extender 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
8 Coumarin 7 Ionone Alpha
19 Vanillin 12 Terpinyl Acetate
24 Musk Gx 50 % in DEP 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Ocimenyl Acetate
.1 Civet Base # 3 1 Geranyl Acetate
9 Benzylsalicylate 3 Clarycet
1 Ambrinol .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
6 Helional 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 2 Jessemal
3 Florosia 11 Fir Needle Canadian
15 Ethyl Vanisal 4 Herboxane
13 Eugenol 5 Fir Needle Canadian
46 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 7 Verdyl Propionate
1 Doremox 6 Lindenol
1 Rose Crystals .1 Undecavertol
4 Cashmeran 1 Neryl Acetate
52 Super Cepionate 3 Koavonne
.1 Rosalva 27 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
32 Lavender Fresh 50/51 .1 Leaf Alcohol
16 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1 Cantryl
7 Citronellol 3 Helioboquet
18 Carnation Base 1 Physalis
263 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .3 Caryophellene Acetate
4 Benteine
118 Geraniol 980 Pure
3 Levenalis 1,000
1 Helioforte
.1 Alcool C - 09
53 Muguet Base
14 Linalool Extra 99 %
46 Orange Base
3 Basil Oil Sweet USA
16 Hexyl Salicylate
3 Bonorax

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51 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 6b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

23 Vanillin 14 Amyl Salicylate


4 Brahmanol 3 Macrolide
10 Benzyl Benzoate 6 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
26 Etilen Brasilate 3 Helional
8 Cou Marin 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Rose Turkey Abs. - Turkey
29 Sandalwood Substitute 4 Dihydro Floralol
9 Benzyl Salicylate 2 Styrallylacetate
.1 Civet Tincture 3 Troenan
1 Galbanum Resinoid 48 Orange Sweet Argentina Valencia
18 Ethyl Vanillin 17 Linalool
57 Acetato Benzila .1 Rose Oxide L
36 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Basil Oil ( Ocimum Cynan Oil )
6 Amyris Oil W.I. .1 Orange Essence Oil
1 Levanalis .1 Viola Oderata L.
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 Roseate
2 Serenolide 2 Gelsol F
39 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Verdyl Propionate
6 Citronellol 3 Myraldyl Acetate
9 Methyl Lavender Ketone 28 Linalyl Acetate
22 Eugenol 5 Nerol
5 Hydrofix R .3 Muguet Alcohol
77 Geraniol 60 % 1 Petilyn
46 Hydroxycitronellol 3 Ylang Givco 225
289 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Iridales
1 Iso Rose
3 Sandalore
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1,000
19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
3 Apple Juice Givco
.1 Aldehyde C - 10
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
33 Lavender Bulgaria Oil

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 52

Floral Floral # 6c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Coumane 55 Orange Oil Valencia


18 Vanisal 18 Linalool
9 Benzyl Benzoate 1 Shiso
1 Benzoin Siam # 2 2 Styrallyl Acetate
57 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Cassia rectified
29 Sandalwood Extender 4 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
9 Benzylsalicylate 1 Cyclemone A
.1 Civet Base .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 7 Hexyl Salicylate
23 Amyl Salicylate 4 Eugenol Iso
18 Fir Needle Oil Canada .1 Nonadienal
6 Anther 3 Cassifex
8 Osyrol 1 Cinnamon Leaf
43 Hedione 3 Diola
8 Benteine 5 Methyl Jasmonate
18 Irone Alpha 6 Verdyl Propionate
14 Citronellol Pure .1 Jasmin Indian Abs.
1 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
58 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geranyl Acetate
15 Eugenol 1 Gelsone
19 Rose For Soap Base 4 Irone V
118 Geraniol 60 .2 Acetato Para Cresol
3 Brahmanol 3 Flor De Laranga Eter
23 Lilial .1 Ylang Oil # 3
9 Iraldeine 100 % 1 Muguet Augaflor
18 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
276 Di Propileno Glico
4 Myraldyl Acetate 1,000
1 Amberonne
27 Lyral
33 Linalyl Acetate
1 Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal
3 Nutmeg Oil - Sir Lanka
.1 Alcohol C - 8

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


53 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Bergamot 11 % - Fruity

Orange 3 %, Neroli 1 %, Lemon 1 %, Lime 1 %, Wintergreen - Trace Fruity

Grapefruit 1 %, Peach 1 %, Lavender - Trace, Cherry, Strawberry .25 %

Middle Rose 11 % - Warm

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Muguet 4 %, Violet 3 %, Jasmin 2 % Floral


Vertofix 2 %
Green Accord Lily 1 %, Carnation 3 %

Base Cedarwood 3 %

Vanilla - Trace, Tonka 3 %, Musk 1 % Sweet

Sandalwood 1 %, Patchouli .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Propionate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 54

Floral Floral # 7a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Vanilline .3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure


31 Coumarin Substitute 48 Linalool Coeur
12 Benzyle Propionate 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
1 Musk 50 DPG 6 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
24 Cedarwood Oil Port Orford .1 Celery Essence
5 Patchone 5 Aldeido C - 16
39 Benzyl Salicylate 34 Orange Oil, Sweet
3 Vanillinethyl .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate
48 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Dimetol
8 Musk Ambrette Substitute .3 Alcohol C - 10
22 Amil Cinamico Aldeido 6 Tangerine Flavor Oil Natural
6 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
5 Sandalore .2 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
23 Vertofix Coeur 11 Grapefruit Brazil
18 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 8 Nectaryl
7 Lilie .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Muguet Aldehyde 6 Ionone Alpha 70 %
8 Citronellol Prime 3 Methyl Lavender Ketone
4 Balsam Peru Oil 58 Linalyl Acetate
23 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Neroli Oil Tunisian
49 Geraniol .1 Geraniol 600
1 Rhovanil Natural 1 Floramat
36 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 7 Peach Pure - Givaudan
65 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1,000
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
1 Rose Oxide R
4 Meijiff
3 Cedraclaire
19 Eugenol
.3 Witergreen Oil
1 Tuberose Substitute
5 Benzaldehyde
.1 Rose Templar

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55 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Iso E Super .1 Viola Odorata


3 Vanillin .3 Alcohol C - 10
31 Cedarwood Oil Virginia .1 Orange Bitter Africa
26 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 6 Benzaldehyde
48 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Florymoss
7 Patchouli Oil Light 6 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
14 Etilen Brasilate 4 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Benzyl Propionate 38 Orange Oil Florida
9 Sandalore .1 Leaf Alcohol
11 Nepalva .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
38 Benzyl Salicylate 5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
1 Ethyl Vanisal 3 Nerol Coeur
.1 Rosalva 1 Bisabolene
27 Vetiver Extender .1 Methyl Salicylate
4 Balsam Peru Oil .5 Aldheyde C - 12 Lauric
19 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Neroli Oil - Citrus Aurantism
1 Sweet Grass 4 Tangeria Oil Extra
4 Tonka Resinoid 1 Neryl Acetate
3 Methyl Benzoate 11 Lemon Spain
14 Citronellol 1 Hydrofix L
3 Guaicwood Acetate .1 Neroliflor
.1 Rose Oil Templar 57 Linalyl Acetate
2 Anisyl Alcohol 9 Grapefruit Oil California
6 Benteine 6 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
55 Geraniol 60 1 Aldehyde C - 16
324 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
58 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
5 Lavender Oil Bulgarian
1 Alpha Damascone
38 Linalol
38 Muguet Base
13 Tuberose Substitute
28 Eugenol
1 Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 56

Floral Floral # 7b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Vanisal 1 Guaiyl Acetate


1 Patchone 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50
14 Vertofix Coeur 3 Eugenyl Acetate
9 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A .1 Alcohol C - 10
11 Benzyle Propionate 9 Phenyle Ethyl Acetate
28 Cou Marin .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
53 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Benzaldehyde 98 %
6 Patchouli Oil .3 Geraniol 600
42 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 3 Sandalwood Super Eco
1 Anisyl Alcohol 12 Persicol SA
11 Vetiver Extender 4 Aldehyde C - 16
3 Cedrenyl Acetate 8 Lime Oil Roses Type 001
10 Amil Cinamic Aldeido .1 Folione
14 Citronellol 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
2 Ethyl Vanillin 38 Linalool
1 Rose Acetal 6 Neroli Oliffac
4 Sandalore 12 Grapefruit
66 Rose For Soap Base 3 Diola
3 Methyl Diantilis 2 Truffle Oil
5 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 33 Orange Oil Sweet - Sicilian
9 Lilie 10 Lemon Oil, Argentina
6 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Bonorax
35 Eugenol .1 Fraise 3333 SA
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
4 Heliotropine
48 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,0000
9 Ionone Intermediate Base
314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
37 Lyral
.2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Methyl Salicylate
.1 Aldeido C - 10
22 Super Cepionate
53 Geraniol 60
68 Linalyl Acetate
.1 Methyl Cinnimate

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57 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL

Top Neroli 1 %

Orange 3 %, Lemon 1 %, Lavender 1 %, Strawberry .5 % Floral Fruity

Bergamot 11 % - Fruity, Wintergreen - Trace, Grapefruit 1 %, Peach 1 %, Lime 1 %

Middle Rose 7 % - Warm

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Muguet 4 %, Violet 3 %, Jasmin 2 % Floral


Vertofix 3 %
Cinnamic Alcohol 1 % Lily 1.5 %, Carnation 3 %

Base Cedarwood 3 %

Vanilla 2 %, Tonka 3 %, Musk 1 % Warm

Sandalwood 2 %, Patchouli .75 %

Cutters

Benzyl Propionate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 58

Floral Floral # 8a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Brahmanol 10 Aroma Peach Base


48 Di Ethyl Phthalate 10 Lavender Oliffac
9 Vanillin .1 Alcohol C - 9
12 Galaxoide 5 Clementine (o)
10 Benzyle Propionate 42 Linalool Natural
28 Coumane 3 Methyl Cedrylone
9 Vanillin, ethyl .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
30 Cedar Atlantica Oil 8 Neroli Bigarade
8 Patchouli Rectified Oil 1 Azarbre
32 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 14 Peach Aldehyde
1 Methyl Salicylate 6 Hydroxycitronellal
10 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol .1 Orange, Blood Tarocco
8 Canada Fir Balsam .2 Aldeido C - 11 Undecilenic
21 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Jasmone
19 Benzyl Acetate 3 Galbanodor
6 Methyl Benzoate 5 Dimetol
13 Para Cresyl redistilled .1 Methyl Cinnimate
29 Vertofix Coeur 56 Linalyl Acetate
38 Muguet Base 4 Grapefruitone
4 Rosone .1 Rose Oxide R
11 Ionone Alpha Refined 12 Lemon Oil Spanish
6 Diola 1 Fraise 3333 SA
8 Citronellol 4 Sandalore
17 Jasmin Province Base 3 Tangerinol
9 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
1 Balsam Peru Oil
295 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
35 Geraniol
26 Carnation Base
3 Lyrame Super
9 Cinnamic Alcohol
17 Sandalwood Substitute
29 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
10 Grapefruit Oil C.P. FCC
.1 Alcohol C - 10
4 Lime Oil 410

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59 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Floral # 8b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Vanillin ex Clove Oil .7 Alcohol C - 10


11 Helional 1 Lime Oil W.I. Distilled
.1 Rose Crystals 1 Pommerol
42 ( DEP ) .1 Aldehdye C - 10
19 Osyrol 1 Floreal
7 Patchouli Light 3 Beramot Calabria
9 Benzyle Propionate .5 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Geranium,Egypt 4 Tangerina
30 Benzylsalicylate 7 Methyl Jasmonate pure
9 Ethylene Brassylate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
22 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 51 Linalyl Acetate Extra 97.5 %
26 Cedro ( Arvore ) 38 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Milfoil East European 8 Dimetol
6 Vanillin, ethyl 1 Syvertal
48 Hydroxycitronellal A 1 Pearlate
25 Vertofix Coeur .1 Methyl Salicylate
6 Metil Benzoato .1 Leaf Alcohol
18 Benzyl Iso Eugenol 903 1 Iso Eugenol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 11 Grapefruit, Oil Florida - US
20 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Supafleur
5 Citronellol Coeur 2 Neroli Oil Morocco
3 Meijiff 11 Persicol
14 Para Cresyl redistilled 4 Kephalis
27 Ionone For Soap 2 Nerol
9 Methyl Iso Eugenol 9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
4 Indisan 38 Linalool
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
23 Carnation Base
3 Methyl Cedrylone 1,000
13 Ionone Alpha Refined
9 Cinnamic Alcohol
8 Lavender Fine
35 Orange Sweet
12 Lemon Guinea
.1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11
1 Vamba
25 Geraniol

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 60

Floral Floral # 8c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Musk 50 DEP .3 Alcool C - 10


3 Rose Crystals 35 Orange Peel Oil Sweet China
28 Cou Marin 2 Vetiver Java
1 Amber Base 13 Orange Oil - Citrus Sinensius
50 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Methyl Geranate
29 Cedarwood Atlas .3 Aldehyde C - 10
18 Sandalore 1 Chandanone
8 Benzyle Propionate .1 Rose Damascenia
13 Vanillin 3 Lioral
9 Patchouli Oil MD .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenico
29 Benzyl Salicylate 8 Irisone Bis
4 Helioropine 63 Linalyl Acetate
3 Cedrafix 1 Methyl Octyl Ketone
18 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Laurico
23 Benzyl Acetate 99 % 13 Dimetol
9 Ethyl Vanisal 1 Amberwood
4 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol 9 Lemon Oil Cold Pressed
32 Vertofix Coeur 4 Hydroxyciol
43 Geraniol .1 Parmavert
8 y - Irone 11 Grapefruit White
6 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Anisalcohol
1 Jasmone 10 Lavender Bulgaria
9 Metil Benzoato 1 Methyl Salicylate
12 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Para Cresyl redistilled
7 Citronellol 1 Bergamot Calabrian Supreme
44 Muguet Base
276 Proplino Glico
7 Javanol 1,000
45 Linalol
15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
33 Carnation Base
12 Peach Aldehyde
.1 Alcohol C - 8
1 Myraldyl Acetate
9 Neroli Oliffac

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


61 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Bouquet

FLORAL BOUQUET

The Floral Bouquet fmaily is feminine, and is new and one of my favorites. Some perfumer’s refer it as a
Frangipianni. In my mind it can be based on jasmin, rose, muguet, gardenia, carnation or for that matter any
floral material. The direction of this group can be based on any theme including fresh floral top notes and fruity
arrangements.

Top Lemon 2 %

Rose - Trace, Bergamot 6 %, Pineapple 1 % Floral Fruity

Strawberry

Middle Rose 11 % - Sweet

Muguet 9 %, Violet 6 %, Lilac 4 % Floral

Jasmin 5 %, Carnation 2 %

Base Sandalwood 4 %

Cedar 3 %, Vanilla 3 % Sweet

Musk 5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 5 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 62

Floral Bouquet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Iso & Super .1 Rose Bulgria


.1 Vanilla Absolute 18 Lemon Oil of California
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
35 SandalwoodSubstitute .1 Methyl Cinnimate
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 White Rose
4 Cedrafix 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
15 Vanillin 4 Nerol
.1 Mousse D’ Arbre 10 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
5 Anandol .1 Leaf Alcohol
9 Irisone Pure 1 Methyl Tuberate Pure
13 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Folione
28 Cedarwood China BPC 37 Linalyl Acetate
53 Ionone Intermediate Base 5 Strawberry pure
1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Grapefruit Pink
22 Laurine Extra 1 Nerolidol
.1 Vanilla Absolute 4 Bergamot C.P. Italy
71 Muguet Base 2 Top Galbanum 18.326
38 Terpineol Prime 1 Poirinate
3 Metil Benzoato .1 Ylang Heart No. 3
6 Citronellol 3 Hysimal
18 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Roseardia Augaflor 21
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Cyclogalbonate
83 Geraniol 1 Melonis
1 Sandalore 1 Neryl Acetate
326 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
6 Rose Artificial
3 Iso - Eugenol 1,000
4 Geranyl Acetate
1 Bisabolene
6 Lilial
38 Benzyl Salicylate
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Linalol
.1 Alcohol C - 8
1 Carnaline

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


63 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Bouquet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Osyrol 2 Cananga Oil Java


1 Vanilla Bean Clear .1 Ionone
38 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
17 Vanillin 1 Methyl Diantilis
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 24 Lemon Oil, Brazil
29 Sandalwood Extender 9 Rose Base
1 Gardenia Fleuriff .1 Leaf Alcohol
11 Benzyle Benzoate .1 Tagette Flower
1 Piperonal ( Heliotropine ) 3 Persicol
18 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia .1 3 - Octanol
44 Acetate De Benzyle .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
15 Ethyl Vanillin 3 Para Cresyl redistilled
3 Cedrenyl Acetate 33 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
6 Lilial 2 Pollenal 2
8 Sandalo Misore .1 Orange Flower Ether
5 Citronellol 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
38 Terpineol PG 3 Lemon Sicilian Pelarice
1 Heliomet 2 Neryl Acetate
3 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Iso Jasmone
22 Iso Eugenol Replacement 5 Lilestrallis 22
7 Anisic Aldehyde .1 Rose China Oil
64 Geraniol 60 3 Jarraral
3 Kephalis 2 Santalol
78 Muguet Base
314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 alpha - Ionone 1,000
14 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Sandalwood Oliffac
6 Methyl Iso Eugenol
43 Iraldeine Standard Substitute
6 Orange Sweet Israel
27 Linalol
1 Top Galbanum 18.326
.1 Alcohol C - 9
4 Strawberry Aldehyde

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 64

Floral Bouquet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

37 Sandalwood Oil Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic


42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Heliogan
14 Vanillin 3 Phenoxanol
11 Benzyl Benzoate 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
5 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Mimosa Abs.
6 Vanilla Beans, Indonesia 4 Nerol 96 %
4 Anthea Sandal Coeur 3 Aldehyde C - 16
33 Cedarwood Oil Microscopy .1 Methyl Tuberate
11 Vanillin, ethyl 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
46 Benyzl Acetate FFC .1 Viola Odorata
48 Benzyl Slaicylate - IFF 1 Cananga Java
59 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
3 Sandalore 1 Bonorax
1 Hydroxycitronellal 97 % 3 Carnation Augaflor 51
.1 Rosalva 1 Hydroxyciol
1 Aubepine 4 Alpha - Ionol
23 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Pamplemousse E. Blanc
6 alpha - Ionone 1 Galbanum Oil Artessence
14 Citronellol 1 Iris Beurre Oil
35 Terpineol Prime 27 Linalyl Acetate
25 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Nerol
84 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa 2 Nectaryl
43 Muguet Base 4 Di Hydro Jasmone
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
1 Alpha Damascone
290 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Lilial
9 Phenylethylalcohol
1 Sandiff
27 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
18 Linalol
.1 Neroli Egypt Essence
23 Lemon Oil South African
.1 Alcool C - 8
4 Strawberry Aldehyde
1 Noz Moscada

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


65 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL BOUQUET

Top Bergamot 3 %

Ylang Ylang 1 %, Green Notes 1 %, Lavender .5 % Fresh Fruity

Peach - Trace

Middle Rose 19 %

Jasmin 5 %, Violet 5 %, Lilac 1 % Floral


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 %
Carnation 1 %, Muguet 5 %

Base Musk 3 %

Tonka 1.5 %, Cedarwood 3 %, Sandalwood 3 % Warm

Amber - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 66

Floral Bouquet # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

13 Musk Cetona 19 Vanoris


.1 Ambrinol - Firmenich .6 Tuberose Oliffac
8 Alicate 12 Linalol Natural
6 Iso E Super .3 Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
9 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Galbanum Oil Artessence
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Lavender Oil 40/42
14 Traseolide 3 Muguet Des Bois 11793
6 Levanalis 4 Cyclorose
.1 Heliomet 37 Methyl Ionone Gamma
5 Di Hydro Coumarex .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
28 Cedarwood Rectified 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
49 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Citrus Corps
37 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Para Cresyl Acetate
1 Flor De Laranja Eter .1 Alcohol C - 9
46 Benzyle Acetate 4 Methyl Benzoate
149 Rose Substitute 2 Styrallyl Acetate
6 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Helioboquet
.1 Methyl Octine Carbonate 1 Honeysuckle
12 Citronellol 850 2 Meranol
10 Methyl Iso Eugenol 24 Linalyl Acetate
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 3 Scennal
22 Lilac Base 1 Orris Oil - Italy
304 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
1 Bois Amberene Forte 8 Florida Oil Guinea
4 Di Methyl Octanol .1 Geraniol 600
46 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .1 Kir Base # 9741
2 Syringa Aldehyde
17 Phenylethylalcohol
3 Phenyle Ethyl Acetate 1,000
1 Atralone
.1 Aldeido C - 10

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


67 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Bouquet # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Chandanone .1 Rosa Centifolia


9 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Sandalwood Essence
22 Sandela 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
38 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Mugone S207M
9 Di Hydro Coumarex 3 Nectaryl
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Linalool
29 Cedarwood Texas 4 Hydroxyciol
.1 Atralone .1 Rose Oxide R
5 Sandec Givco 1 Cassia
4 Benzyl Iso Eugenol .2 Methyl Tuberate
6 Traseolide 22 Linalyl Acetate
5 Khoavone 4 Gardenia Fleuriff
17 Lavender Oil - France 11 Ylang Ylang Substitute
19 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Meranol
28 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Tamarind Oil
15 Hydroxycitronellal 99 % 3 Jasmorange F
.1 Alcohol C - 8 2 Kohinool
11 Eugenol USP 1 Neroli Oliffac
24 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
143 Geraniol 1 Vanilla Mexicana
12 Terpineol ( Perfumery Grade ) .1 Rose
37 Rose Substitute 1 Geranyl Linalool
.1 Exaltolide 3 Aquamor
4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
325 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Benzoin Resinoid 1,000
18 Citronellol
11 Irisone Pure
63 Hydroxycitronellal Extender
1 Florymoss
16 Iso Nonyl Acetate
4 Geranyl Acetate
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
1 Scennal
1 Geranium Oil Bourbon
3 Jasmone

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 68

Floral Bouquet # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder 5 Meijiff


1 Mousse De Chenne 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Muguet Alcohol
14 Coumarin Extra Pure 4 Tuberose Oliffac
28 Traseolide 3 Linacol
31 Cedarwood Oil Texas 2 Pasion Fruit
5 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Heliotropine 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
10 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Syringa
6 Musc BRB .1 Bulgaflor
3 Kephalis .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Amyris Oil .1 Rose Abs. Bulgarian
1 Benzyl Iso Eugenol 24 Vanoris
38 Aldeido Cinamic Amil 3 Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast
43 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
1 Damascenia 185 SA 1 Citronica
59 Acetato Benzila 4 Trepanol
12 Lindenol .1 Ylang Ylang # 2
19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Rose Oxide L
4 Sandalwood - Australia 6 Tangerine - Syria
23 Tuberose Sbustitute 1 Geranyl Acetate Pure
5 Lavender Oil, Moldovan 1 Santalyl Acetate
1 Rosone 3 Galbex 183
48 Hydroxycitronellol Pure 99 % FCC 2 Jamaica Oil
339 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Iris Beurre Oil
152 Geraniol 80 1,000
1 Datilat
1 Geranium Oil - Egypt
12 Citronellol
9 Eugenol
3 Naturanate
.1 Alcohol C - 10

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69 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Green Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate C - 9 Powerful fruity green leafy.


Aldehyde C - 6 Powerful fatty green grassy odor.
Aldehyde C - 8 Soft woody green mildly floral odor.
Alfania Base 38228 If a compound based on alfalfa most likely green or herbal.
Ambrose Abs. A very strong green floral type fragrance.
A C A Di Methyl Acetal Peculiar animal green odor.
Amyl Salicylate Sweet herbaceous green slightly floral.
Anisyl Formate Sweet herbaceous green somewhat dry odor.
Armoise Oil Herbaceous green.

Balinol A green floral compound.


Benzyl Formate Powerful fruity green herbaceous.
Bois Amberene Forte Green floral odor.
Bourgeon De Cassis Green.

Cassis Base 345 B A green fruity floral character.


Cassis Fragrance Strong green fruity floral fragrance.
CIS 3 Hexenyl Acetate Intensely green sharp fruity, very diffusive, dilution - banana.
CIS 3 Hexenyl Benzoate Mild, but tenacious green herbaceous woody odor.
CIS 3 Hexyl Alcohol Powerful, and intensely green grassy odor.
CIS 3 Hexyl Salicylate. Sweet, slightly green balsamic odor.
Citralva Powerful oily green lemony fresh odor.
Citronellal Powerful fresh green citrusy, slight woody odor.
Citronellyl Formate Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light Rem of geranium rose.
Cortex Aldehyde Powerful green woody sap like, but fresh aldehydic sweet.
Cumin Aldehyde Extremely powerful diffusive green spicy slightly fatty odor.
Cuminic Aldehyde Pungent green herbaceous odor.
Cyclal - C Powerful green leafy floral odor.
Cyclamen Aldehyde Diffusive powerful floral green stem like odor.
Cyclo Galbonate Strong herbaceous green.

Decatone A strong green odor.


Di Ethyl Malonate Sweet pleasant fruity green reminiscent of apples.
Di M Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol Soft floral green.

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Glen O. Brechbill 70

Di Phenyl Oxide Harsh floral green.

Ethyl Levlulinate Ethereal fruity, somewhat green and sweet odor.


Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate Powerful diffusive green fruity pungent odor Rem of apple peels.

Farnesol Mildly floral delicately sweet oily fresh green odor.


Feuillage Vert Base 47.062 Green floral base possessing a cool natural freshness.
Fleuroxene A strong green floral woody nondescript odor.
Floral N A soft slightly green floral odor.
Floromat A floral green type odor.
Floropal Herbal fresh floral green.
Florosa A light sweet delicately floral green fragrance.
Florosia A light sweet green floral.

Galbanum Oil Spring green leafy like.


Galbex 183 Woody green herbaceous odor.
Geranium Bourbon Green leafy rosy strong.
Geranyl Acetone Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green.
Geranyl Formate Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor.
Grapefruit Body Fleurom Extremely powerful green grapefruit odor.
Gyrane A diffusive herbal green type odor.

Heptavert A green woody odor.


Herbaflorat Green sweet fruity.
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate Oily sweet fruity green apple, and galbanum like odor.
Hexyl Benzoate Woody green piney balsamic odor.
Homo Cumminic Aldehyde 50 Pw, diffusive green twiggy effect with cut grass hedge like odor.
Hyacinth Body Powerful leafy green with hyacinth note.
Hydratropic Aldehyde Very powerful penetrating green earth foilage.
Hydratropic A D M Acetal Powerful, earthy warm spicy green deep fruity odor.
Hydrofix L Sweet floral lily with a fresh green dry out.
Hydroxycitronellal X Citronellol Muguet sweet floral green, citrusy fresh.

Iso Cyclo Citral Powerful and diffusive floral green.

Jacintheme 135 SA Reminiscent of the green floral heart of hyacinth.

Leaf Acetal Extra Powerful oily green odor with a sweet vegetable undertone.
Leaf Acetate Intensely green diffusive odor.
Leaf Alcohol Powerful fruity green slightly fruity.
Leaf Salicylate Sweet, slightly green balsamic odor.
Liffarome Violet green.
Ligustral Fresh green.

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71 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lilial Sweet yet refreshing floral green.


Lile Strallis 22 Fresh light green floral, reminiscent of lilial.
Linalyl Formate Fresh citrusy green bergamot like.
Lyral Delicately sweet, light and floral.

Mallow A slightly green sweet floral fragrance.


Mayol A sweet green floral material.
Melon Enhancer A diffusive green melon type odor.
Melonyl 86471 VMF A very nice light sweet green melon odor very diffusive.
Methyl Heptenone Extra Fruity green slightly waxy.
Methyl Hexyl Ketone Pleasant floral bitter green, slightly musty.
Methyl Octine Carbonate Green violet leaf like.
Methyl Phenyl Carbinol Earth green reminiscent of gardenia and hyacinth.
Mimosa Abs. Essence A green floral delicately mimosa like.
Muguet Aldehyde 50 Diffusive green muguet lily type odor.

Nerolidol Mild and delicately floral slight green reminiscent of apple lily.
Nerolidyl Acetate Sweet woody and mildly refreshing green.

Olibanum Oil Strongly diffusive fresh terpeney green.


Orris Resinoid A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.

Phenyl Acetaldehyde Powerful green wood sap like.


Phenyl A Glycerine Acetal Peculiar oily green earthy ranty, but mild and sweet.
Phenyl Di Methyl Acetal Powerful green earthy flower stem like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetal Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.
Phenyl Propyl Acetate Fresh floral powerful fruity green.
Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde Floral hyacinth, lilac, balsamic green.

Rhodinyl Formate Fresh leafy green delicate rosy.


Rhodinyl Valerate Heavy fruity, slight earthy green, but also sweet odor.
Rose Crystals Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor.

Scentenal Powerful green refreshing watery floral.


Stemone Green slightly herbaceous odor.
Strallyl Acetate Powerful and penetrating green floral in dilution.
Strallyl Propionate Balsamic green floral type odor.
Syringa Aldehyde Powerful and refreshing green fruity forest like sweet odor.

Taget Abs. Intensely herbaceous green with a sweet fruity undertone.


Tolyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity and mildly green.

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Glen O. Brechbill 72

Trans 2 Hexenyl Acetate Powerful and fresh green sweet fruity very natural odor.
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate Powerful herbaceous green and fresh woody odor.

Undecavertol Strong, however not over powering slightly green floral odor.

Vern Aldehyde Fresh green.


Vetchouli Green herbaceous odor.

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73 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Green

FLORAL GREEN

A floral green fragrance are natural in nature compounded by blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus
fruits. This group is characterized of typical botanical fragrance notes, like those of leaves, stalks or freshly
mown grass as well as cucumber-violet-like green notes. Generally relying on parts of plants, and flowers such
as Muguet, or Lily of the Valley. They can be delicate as Muguet or have a strong stem like note characteristic
of Styrallyl Acetate or Cyclamen Aldehyde. Green is often used to describe lush forests, fallen leaves during
the autumn, a woodland meadow, or grassland. They can be further subdivided under Fresh and Balsamic.
Galbanum or Olibanum would be in the later family, or the can be a green accord such as Cassis.

Top Green Notes 1.5 %

Violet Notes, Cassis .5 %, Melon 1.5 %, Jasmin Green

Pineapple 1 %, Green Materials 2 - 4 %, Apple .5 %

Middle Muguet 5 %

Lily 12 %, Carnation 2 %, Rose 7 % - Sweet Floral

Lilac 2 %, Jasmin 3 %, Violet 3 %

Base Musk 6 %

Tonka .5 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Galbanum 2 % Animalic

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 74

Floral Green # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

53 Galaxolide 50 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate


21 Sandalwood Extender 26 Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso
9 Benzylique Alcool 3 Di Ethyl Malonate
18 Galbanum Coulress A 2 Methyl Jasmonate pure
6 Coumane 4 Cyclamen Aldehyde
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Linalol
5 Javanol .1 Aldehyde C - 8
22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 4 Top Galbanum 18.326
3 Heliotropine .1 Celery Essence
12 Amyl Cinnamic aldehyde 2 Apple Oliffac
.1 Civet Ethiopian 3 Green Base Augaflor 10
34 Hydroxycitronellal A 1 Muguet Alcohol
11 Jasmin Artificial Base .3 Leaf Salicylate
1 Geranodyle 4 Vern Aldehyde
48 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Methyl Tuberate
15 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 3 Scennal
19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 15 Linalyl Acetate
6 Eugenol 2 Cassis Fragrance
4 Methyl Benzoate 1 Iridales
13 Rose Substitute .2 Damascol - 4
19 Lindenol 10 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
12 Citronellol 4 Hydroxyciol
4 Sweet Grass
37 Lilial
.1 Rosalva 1,000
315 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Tuberose Oliffac
69 Geraniol
7 Iso & Super
11 Lysmeral
63 Muguet Base
1 Applinal
.1 2, 6 Nonaiden 1 OL
14 Styrallyl Acetate
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

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75 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Green # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Brahmanol .3 2, 6 Nonadienal
1 Evernyl 3 Petunial
44 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 15 Carnation Base
.1 Civet Abs. A 17 Melon Oliffac
9 Santal Core .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
17 Galbanum Res. 3918 P 6 Linalool 925
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Hydroxy Extra
21 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Cyclal - C
9 Cashmeran 4 Apple Oliffac
7 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 22 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
16 Jasmin Artificial 3 Florosa
13 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Limette Pressee Afroid
25 Salicylate D’Benzyle 3 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
6 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 5 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
4 Verdilyn 1 Tuberose Oliffac
15 Rose Substitute 4 Irisone Pure
9 Eugenol 7 Kir Base # 9741
14 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Lyrame
25 Ionone Alpha 60 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
3 Cyclo Galbanate 1 Jasmone
.1 Rose Oxide L .2 Neryl Acetate
8 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1 Sandalore
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
14 Citronellol
323 Propileno Glico 1,000
18 Terpineol Prime
114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender
55 Geraniol 90
3 Metil Benzoato
14 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
35 Hedione
4 Top Galbanum 18.326
.1 Aldehyde C - 8
11 Styrallyl Acetate
3 Verdox

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Glen O. Brechbill 76

Floral Green # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

53 Ethylene Brassylate 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate


21 Sandela 26 Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso
9 Benzylique Alcool 3 Di Ethyl Malonate
18 Galbanum Coulress A 2 Methyl Jasmonate pure
6 Coumane 4 Cyclamen Aldehyde
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Linalol
5 Javanol .1 Aldehyde C - 8
22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 4 Top Galbanum 18.326
3 Heliotropine .1 Celery Essence
12 alpha Amyl Cinnamic aldehyde 2 Apple Oliffac
.1 Civet Tincture 3 Green Base Augaflor 10
34 Hydroxycitronellal A 1 Muguet Alcohol
11 Jasmin Artificial Base .3 Leaf Salicylate
1 Geranodyle 4 Vern Aldehyde
48 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 1 Methyl Tuberate
15 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 3 Scennal
19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 15 Linalyl Acetate
6 Eugenol 2 Cassis Fragrance
4 Methyl Benzoate 1 Iridales
13 Rose For Soap Base .2 Damascol - 4
19 Lindenol 10 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
12 Citronellol 4 Hydroxyciol
4 Sweet Grass
37 Lilial
.1 Polarose 1,000
315 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Tuberose Oliffac
69 Geraniol
7 Iso & Super
11 Lysmeral
63 Muguet Base
1 Applinal
.1 2, 6 Nonaiden 1 OL
14 Styrallyl Acetate
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

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77 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN

Top Green Notes .6 %

Bergamot 3 % - Fruity, Cassis 1 %, Peach 3 % Fruity Green

Green Materials, Apple 1 %

Middle Carnation 1 %

Muguet 12 %, Jasmin 14 %, Lilac 2 % Floral

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Violet 5 %, Rose 6 % - Warm

Base Musk 2 %

Tonka - Trace, Moss - Trace, Galbanum 1 % Animal Sweet

Cedarwood 2 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 78

Floral Green # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

13 Iso & Super 2 Di Methyl Octanol


6 Coumane 7 Cassis Fragrance
10 Benzyl Alcohol 11 Muguet Aldehyde 50
.1 Moss Oliffac 4 Styrallyl Acetate
11 Galbanum Resinoid - Iran 5 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
48 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 14 Linalool
1 Safranal .3 Syringa Aldehyde
29 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Geranylacetoin
17 Musk Ambrette Substitute 1 Cassia Oliffac
8 Cedrenyl Acetate 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
13 Benzoin Resinoid 9 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
6 Tradeolide 1 Neroli Oil - Morocco
123 Acetate De Benzyle 3 Boisnal
15 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 29 Linalyl Acetate
6 Anis Aldehyde .1 Nonadienal Di Methyl Acetal
3 Cedro ( Folha ) 3 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Roseessence 193 D 1 Jasilyn
62 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Neryl Acetate Primary
5 Jasmonyl Acetate 3 2-n-Hexyl Cyclopentanone
2 Cedraclaire 2 Bois Ambrene Forte
.1 Fir Balsam 1 Irotyl V
13 Ionone Alpha Refined .1 Rose Bulgare Oil
6 Heliotropine 4 Persicol
19 Terpineol 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde
8 Pine Oil Light
314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Citornellol 1,000
1 Methyl Tuberate
8 Jasmin Province Base
.1 Alcohol C - 6
103 Muguet Base
3 Apple Blossom FM - 1242
1 Carnaline
18 Geraniol
.1 Ylang Heart No. 3
1 Bergamot Oil - FCF
4 Lavender Oil Clonal

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79 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Green # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Cou Marin 19 Peach Aroma Base


12 Benzyl Alcohol 6 Jasmonyl Acetate
4 Heliotropine 3 Stemone
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 11 Linalol
19 Galaxolide 50 8 Pech pure - Givaudan
.1 Oakmoss Givco 204/2 .1 Mirabelle 2000
34 Benzyl Salicylate 17 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
11 Galbanum Resinoid 1 Petilyn
3 Vanisal 11 Verdox
5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 2 Aldeido C - 14
14 Ionone Alpha 7 Vert de Cassis Givco 180
6 Musk Gazalle 3 Bois Ambrene Forte
3 Cedrenyl Acetate .3 Ylang Ylang “Second”
.2 Cetonal V 2 Appila Augaflor 7
7 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 2 Persicol SA
3 Kephalis 24 Linalyl Acetate
135 Muguet Base 1 Nerol
11 Eugenol .1 Leaf Alcohol
2 Vanillin, ethyl 7 Green Peach Base
8 Citronellol 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
1 Methyl Jasmonate 4 Neo Galbanum Oil N
35 Geraniol 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde
4 Lyrame Super 1 Boisnal
3 Cedraclaire 3 Gardenia Fleuriff
323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Florosia
1 Methyl Benzoate 1 Neryl Acetate
4 Di Methyl Octanol
5 Carnaline
12 Ionone Alpha Refined 1,000
.1 Folione
23 Terpineol Prime
120 Benzyl Acetate
4 Acetate De Styralyle
1 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
.1 Rose Oil Turkey

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Glen O. Brechbill 80

Floral Green # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Galaxolide 1 Vetiveryl Acetate Popular


3 Heliotropine 3 Bourgenal
11 Alcool Benzilico .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Coumane 4 Nerolidol
18 Traseolide 700 Base 18 Lindenol
.1 Atralone 1 Undecatriene
53 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Blue Rus Accord - IFF
3 Heliomet 9 Persicol SA
1 Velvet Rose 4 Nerol
34 Benzyle Salicylate 7 Iso Raldeine
.1 Damascenone 9 Aldeido C - 14
10 Alpha Ionyl Acetate 6 Muguet Augaflor 16
4 Cyclogalbaniff .1 Rosessence 17.600B
19 Ionone Alpha 60 12 Verdox
13 Aldeido Hexil Cinamico 10 Linalool
8 Methyl Ionone Gamma .1 Bois De Rose Essence
4 Atlas Cedar 3 Kir Base # 9741
99 Super Cepionate 1 Honeysuckle
107 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 4 Scennal
6 Citronellol .1 Jonquil Abs.
38 Jasmin Province Base 8 Cassis Givco
9 Eugenol 25 Linalyl Acetate
1 Methyl Jasmonate 1 Apritone
1 Lavanda Spliego .2 Rose Orient
44 Geraniol
3 Hydroxycitronellal 97 %
1 Pepperwood 1,000
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
328 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Methyl Para Cresole
22 Peach Pure
4 Cassis Bourgeons
1 Oxanone

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81 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN

Top Cassis .5 %

Bergamot 4 %, Peach 7 %, Green Notes 1 % Fruity Green

Apple 1 %

Middle Jasmin 20 %

Lilac 1 %, Violet 3 %, Rose 3 % Floral


Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %
Muguet 13 %

Base Musk 5 %

Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood .5 %, Civet - Trace Warm

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 82

Floral Green # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Musk Emeressence 4 Styrallyl Acetate


10 Alcool Benzilique 8 Apple Juice Givco 123
.1 Civet Base # 5 4 Kir Base # 9741
12 Ferula Galbaniflua .1 2, 6 Nonadien # 332
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Verotyl
38 Ethylene Brassylate 5 Cyclamen Aldehyde
9 Helional 6 Irone Alpha Refined
74 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Neroli Blossom Water
.1 Helioforte 1 Muguet Alcohol
93 Benzyl Acetate 5 Applitone OA
114 Muguet Base 3 Stemone
6 Alicate 4 Tangerine ( O )
1 Serenolide 1 Alpha Damascone
9 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Green Peach Base
1 Cyclomugal 2 Petilyn
8 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol .1 Geraniol Oil pure
4 Florosia 2 Green Augflor Base
7 Lindenol 1 Acetyl Iso Eugenol
6 Citronellol 98 % 11 Peach Pure - Givaudan
1 alpha - Irone .1 Alcohol C - 90
4 Sweet Grass 1 Cyclal - C
.1 Rose Oxide l 25 Linalyl Acetate
77 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Perryfix
9 Rose Artificial Base 3 Lavender Oils
303 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Heliogan
23 Geraniol Extra pure 1,000
16 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
1 Jasmone
4 Lyrame Super
12 Linalol Coeur 97 %
.1 Galbanum Oil Artessence
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
52 Aldehyde C - 14
1 Tuberose Oliffac

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83 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Green # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Coumane 9 Bergamot Oil Substitute


42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 2, 6 Nonadienal # 332
53 Galaxolide Artessence 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan
9 Benzylalcohol 33 Geraniol
1 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 4 Kir Base # 9741
7 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Tonka Feve Resinoide
.1 Damascenia 185 SA 5 Cassis Fragrance
24 Benzyl Salicylate 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Fluffy Musk - Givaudan 38 Aldehyde C - 14
19 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 27 Linalyl Acetate
73 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 11 Verdox
5 Cedrafix 1 Florosia
4 Etilen Brasilate 4 Cyclamen Aldehyde
78 Muguet Base 1 Bergamot Italian - Citrus Bergamia
9 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 White Vineyard Peach - Givaudan
73 Benzyle Acetate 3 Nerol
4 Iso Amyl Geranate 1 Perryfix
1 Di Hydro Coumarex 4 Applinal
5 Sweet Grasss .3 Bourgenal
9 Citronellol 750 4 Citronet
.1 The 3 Di Ethyl Malonate
.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 2 Top Galbanum 18.326
15 Terpineol Prime 1 Meranol
.1 Rosone .1 Geraniol 600
309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
5 Ionone Alpha Refined 1,000
.1 Rose Oxide R
6 Myraldyl Acetate
7 Hydrofix L
14 Linalol
17 Methyl Ionone Alpha
5 Acetate De Styralyle
7 Green Base Augaflor 8

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Glen O. Brechbill 84

Floral Green # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Heliomet 32 Peach Aroma Base


12 Benzyl Alcohol FR 4 Verbena Oil France
47 Etilen Brasilato 17 Gardenia Base
9 Tonka Resinoid 4 Orange West Indian
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 11 Verdox
6 Galbanolide 1 Bergamot Calabrian Essence
3 Sandalore .1 Black Currant Bud ( Cassis ) Abs.
24 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
1 Kephalis 4 Di Ethyl Malonate
1 Cyclal - C 29 Peach Aldehyde
3 Vanillina 1 Bois Ambrene Forte
11 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .2 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
63 MDJ 3 Ferula Galbani Flua
.1 Rose Oxide L 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
118 Muguet Base 2 Stemone
11 Cepionate .1 Folione
4 a - Irone 28 Linalyl Acetate
3 Gardenia Fleuriff 4 Styrallyl Acetate
1 Reseda Body 5 Viridine
1 Rose Crystals 3 Pearlate
1 Doremox 4 Muuet Alcohol
28 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Rose Orient
6 Citronellol .2 Cyclomyral
3 Lioral 1 Melfloral
.1 Exaltolide
12 Lindenol
24 Geraniol 1,000
292 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
.1 cis - 2 - Hexen - 1 - OL
3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
86 Hedione
5 Cyclamen Aldheyde
.1 Aldehyde C - 8
15 Linalol synthetique
3 Kir Base # 9741

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85 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN

Top Bergamot 11 % - Fruity

Green Notes .5 %, Tangerine 1.5 %, Berryflor .5 % Fruity Green

Melon 1.5 %, Lavender .5 %

Middle Rose - 13 % Warm

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Kephallis 2 %, Muguet 8 %, Jasmin 7 % Floral

Violet 10 %, Lilac 3 %

Base Musk 3 %

Galbanum 1 %, Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 1 % Warm

Amber - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 86

Floral Green # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Galbanum Resinoid .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic


9 Santalex T Neat 1 Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF
4 Amyris Oil W.I. 1 Jonquil Absoflor
13 Iso E Super 3 Styrallyl Acetate
35 Di Ethyl Phthlate (DEP) 1 Green Base Augaflor 5
9 Coumane 5 Aldehyde C - 14
1 Amber Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
28 Ethylene Brassylate 1 Verdantiol
6 Osyrol 2 Ciclamen Aldeido
11 Hydroxycitronellal “E” 1 Cassis Bourgeons
10 Laurinal 4 Stemone
53 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 8 Lilie
19 Kephalis 2 Cyclal - C
5 Sweet Grass 1 Sweet Pea
33 Super Cepionate 5 Gardenia Ether
54 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Berryflor
6 Methyl Benzoate 12 Amyl Salicylate
22 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Geranyl Acetate For Soap
29 Lilac Base .1 Rose Glycol
1 Benzophenone 4 Methyl Amyl Ketone
15 Jasmin Province Base 10 Ionone Alpha Refined
13 Lilial .1 Leaf Alcohol
8 Citronellol Pure 14 Tangerine Oil - Florida
1 Santalol 1 Cassis Fragrance
301 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Peomosa
48 Geraniol 60 1,000
7 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
3 Oncidal
52 Muguet Base
15 Melon Oliffac
.1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Orange Carbonyls
4 Acetate De Styrallyle
6 Hexyle Salicylate

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87 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Green # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

12 Galbanum Resinoid .1 Neroli Egypt Essence


10 Sandalwood Extender 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
14 Muskylein 6 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
11 Salicylate D’Benzyle 3 Palmarosa Indian
12 Helional 14 Tangerinol
1 Amber Base .3 Poirenate
.1 Civet Tincture 2 Ciclal - C
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
32 Hidroxicitronelal .3 Sweet Pea
.1 Cedrol Crystals 1 Molton Woods - Firmenich
9 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Styrallyl Acetate
17 Musk Z 4 - IFF .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Melfloral 2 Neroli Tunisian
22 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 15 Melon Oliffac
14 Citronellol 96 FCC 1 Petilyn
5 Kephalis 1 Lavender 48/50 %
1 Rhodinol Ex Geranium Oil .1 Alcool C - 9
7 Iso - Eugenol 3 Muguet Alcohol
76 Geraniol 60 .1 Rose - Egypt
.1 Musk Abs. C’Less 2 Berryflor
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic 1 Iso Jasmone
28 Lilac Base .1 Leaf Alcohol Pure 98 %
43 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Myraldyl Acetate
69 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Tuberose Augaflor 25
318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Aquamor
98 Ionone Intermediate Base
.1 Tuberose Oliffac
1 Rose Crystals 1,000
6 Lyral
3 Berryflor
78 Muguet Base
1 Anapear - Givaudan
5 Hexyl Salicylate
1 Vandor B
6 Methyl Lavender Ketone
1 Vernol

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Glen O. Brechbill 88

Floral Green # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Ambre 140 BSA 1 Cis 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate


28 Traseolide 700 Base .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Rhodiascent 6 Phenylethylacetate
11 Benzyl Salicylate 2 Acetate De Styralyle
12 Galbanum Select - Ferol Galbanifera 4 Galbex 183
4 Cedryl Acetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 lauric
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Iso Raldeine 70
9 Sandalwood Oil Indonesia 4 Methyl Lavender Ketone
6 Muskylein 3 Sweet Grass
4 Vanilys 6 Tangerinol
9 Hydroxycitronellol 9 Gardenia Fleuriff
.1 Cinnamon Bark Ceylon .1 Violiff
66 Benzyle Acetate 6 Green Key KF1
22 Hexil Cinnamic Aldeido 17 Melonyl 85471 VMF
6 Berryflor 34 Linalool
11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 Undecatriene
18 Kephalis .1 Leaf Alcohol
29 Lindenol 3 Ionone
63 Muguet Base 5 Muguet Aldehyde 50
1 Bergamot African 9 Mandarin Oil, Red
9 Citronellol Coeur FCC 52 Linalyl Acetate
6 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Neryl Acetate
73 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde
48 Geraniol
14 Lyral
3 Ionone - alpha 1,000
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Sandalwood Oliffac
1 Cyclal - C
.1 Alcohol C - 9
.1 Galbanum Resinoid Artessence
6 Hexyl Salicylate
1 Lily Aldehyde
3 Allyl Phenoxy Acetate

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89 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN

Top Orange 6 %

Bergamot 4 % - Fruity, Lemon 2 %, Grapefruit 1 % Fruity Green

Green Notes .5 %, Apple - Trace, Petitgrain 1 %, Basil 1 %

Middle Muguet 5 %

Amyl Salicylate 5 % Rose 17 %, Hyacinth 1 %, Violet 1 % Floral


Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 %
Jasmin 4 %

Base Musk 5 %

Tonka 2 %, Galbanum .5 %, Pine 1 % Mossy Animalic

Moss - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 90

Floral Green # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Galbanum Oil A 3 Vern Aldehyde


13 Traseolide 2 Triplal
9 Vanillin 1 Rhodiaflor
29 Benzyl Salicylate 6 Styrallyl Acetate
18 Helional .1 Nonadienal
3 Iso Bornyl Crystals .1 Alcohol C - 9
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 18 Linalool Coeur
43 Amyl Salicylate 1 Geranyl Acetate
5 Kephalis 3 Irone V
1 Alpha Damascone 5 Green Base Augaflor 10
49 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 53 Orange Oil Midseason
38 Benzyl Acetate .1 Aldehyde Iso C - 11
23 Etilen Brasilate 2 Neryl Acetate
4 Calyxol 4 Myrac Aldehyde
6 Hyacinth PP .1 Friasse Distille
17 Gardenia Base 4 Verdyl Acetate
8 Alpha Ionone .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Top Galbanum 18.326 1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Hyacinth 1 Cyclal - C
38 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Orange Aldehyde
3 Florosia 3 Verdox
6 Citronellol 750 7 Verdyl Propionate
5 Gardenia Fleuriff 11 Grapefruit Oil, White, Brazil
13 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 2 Methyl Pamplemousse
113 Geraniol Pure 6 Balsam, Fir Canada
5 Hysimal 9 Petitgrain Oil Paraguay
274 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
7 Cedar Atlantic Oil
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
8 Lyral
25 Linalyl Acetate
8 Blood Orange Oil
.1 Aldehyde C - 8
24 Lemon Oil of California

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91 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Green # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Galbanum Resinoide .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic


33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Triplal
.1 Evernyl 1 Vern Aldehyde
28 Musk Ambrette Substitute 3 Tangerinol
1 Rose Crystals 1 Cassis
32 Benzyle Salicylate 50 Amyl Salicylate
.1 Alpha Damascone 9 Petitgrain Paraguay
3 Styrax Resinoid 4 Myrac Aldehyde
1 Helioforte .1 Aldehyde C - 10
19 Ethylene Brassylate 11 Linalool
.1 Nonadienal 1 Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
62 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Methyl Chamomile
38 Acetate De Benzyl 8 Lyral
.1 Rosalva 4 Bergamot Oil - FCF
13 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 25 Lemon Oil Washed
18 Ionone Alpha Refined 4 Appila Augaflor 5
21 Citronellol 1 Orange Aldehyde
37 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Silvial
6 Sweet Grass 1 Jasilyn
101 Geraniol 60 28 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
3 Nepalva 4 Nerol
14 Jasmin Artificial Base 3 Meijiff
2 Hyacinth PP 3 Osyrol
7 Lilial 1 Vanillin Acetate
282 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
6 MDJ
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1,000
23 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
8 Argumen Substitute
.1 Aldehyde C - 24 Poire
3 Top Muguet 18.326
58 Orange Oil Brazilian C.P.
2 Styrallylacetate

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Glen O. Brechbill 92

Floral Green # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

48 Ethylene Brassylate 24 Lemon Oil California


.1 Civet Tincture 1 Styrallyl Acetate
.1 Evernyl 2 Jasmin Egyptian
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Triplal
9 Galbanum Resinoid 4 Green Base Augaflor 10
32 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Petitgrian Oil Mandariner
19 Cou Marin .3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Benzophenone 8 Verdyl Propionate
4 Di Metil Benzil Carbinol 5 Myrac Aldehyde
3 Symmusk 63 Orange Oil of Florida
9 Hyacinth PP 1 Aldeido Ciclamen
12 Cetone V 3 Rhodiaflor SoA
73 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Verdox
1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Leaf Salicylate
14 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 3 Pearalate
7 Sweet Grass 6 Lyral
3 Lavender Oil Standard .1 Orange Aldehyde
12 Citronellol 850 1 Boisnal
37 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 6 Vredyl Acetate
14 Lyral 7 Grapefruit Oil Pink C.P.
8 Pine Oils Natural 70 % 4 Neryl Acetate
113 Geraniol Pure 1 Felandrene
5 Top Galbanum 18.326 3 Iridales
3 Iso, Eugenol 2 Sandalwood Oliffac
12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
295 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
16 Tuberose Substitute 1,000
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Hydrofix R
1 Vert De Bois 480M
43 Benzyl Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 8
3 Vern Aldehyde
3 Di Hydro Nootkatone
.1 Aldeido C - 10

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93 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fruit Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate C - 6 Sweet fruity berry pear like.


Alcohol C - 6 Chemical winey, slightly fatty fruity odor.
Aldehyde C - 7 Powerful oily fermenting fruity.
Aldehyde C - 10 Powerful sweet waxy orange peel like odor.
Aldehyde C - 14 Powerful peach odor.
Aldehyde C - 16 Sweet fruity candy like strawberry.
Aldehyde C - 18 Coconut, in extreme dilution - fruity.
Aldehyde C - 19 Pineapple.
Aldehyde C - 20 Raspberry.
Acetate Iso Eugenol Sweet balsamic spicy fruity odor of clove's.
Acetate PA Sharp mixed fruity pineapple like odor, heavy and sweet.
Allyl Amyl Glycoate Strong fruity pineapple.
Allyl Caproate Fatty fruity, reminiscent of pineapple.
Allyl Cyclo Hexyl Propionate Powerful and sweet fruity odor resembles pineapple.
Allyl Heptoate Sweet, fruity pungent resembles banana.
Alpha Damascone Intense fruity reminiscent of plums and roses.
Amyl Acetate Powerful fruity banana like odor.
Amyl Butyrate Fruity odor of apricot banana pineapple.
Amyl Iso Valerate Fruity ethereal heavy apple like odor.
Amyl Phenyl Acetate Fruity balsamic sweet odor.
Amyl Propionate Sweet fruity apricot pineapple like odor.
Apple Oliffac Fresh green apple.
Aurantiol Sweet heavy floral orange blossom lily.

Benzyl Acetate Powerful thin sweet fresh, fruity floral odor of jasmin gardenia.
Benzyl Butyrate Heavy fruity floral plum like.
Benzyl Formate Powerful fruity green herbaceous.
Benzyl Iso Amyl Ether Floral fruity odor somewhat greener and herb than B.A.
Benzyl Propionate Fruity sweet, rosy floral.
Bergamot Oil FCC Fresh, fruity citrus odor.
Bergamyl Acetate A sweet bergamot orange fragrance.
Beta Damascone Fruity.
Beta Ionone Warm woody dry odor, fruity undertone.

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94 Glen O. Brechbill

Boisnal A very weak and sweet fruity floral odor.


Butyl Butyrate Powerful fresh sweet fruity reminiscent of banana pineapple.

Calone 1951 Has a faint fruity melon odor.


Casis Base 345B A green fruity floral character.
Cinnamyl Acetate Sweet mild balsamic, slightly floral fruity odor.
Cinnamyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity, mild balsamic, sweet odor, Rem of ripe banana.
CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.
Citrathal Fruity fresh like odor.
Citroflex # 2 Mild sweet winey, fruity plum like.
Citronal Fruity.
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor.
Citronellyl N Butyrate Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal.
Citronellyl Formate Powerful leafy green fruity rosy fresh & light Rem of geranium.
Citronellyl Propionate Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor.

Damascenia 185 SA Floral fruity rose odor at same time very sweet.
Delta Dodelactone Fresh fruity oily odor of good tenacity.
Di Ethyl Malonate Sweet pleasant fruity green odor reminiscent of apples.
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate More fruity less floral.
D M B C - Acetate Powerful fresh floral fruity slight herbaceous jasmin lily.
D M B C - Butyrate Mild herbaceous fruity plum prune like.
D M B C - Propionate Sweet floral fruity odor of freesia, sweet pea, peony, magnolia.
Di Methyl Malonate Apple ethereal fruity.

Ethyl Acetate Pleasant ethereal fruity brandy like.


Ethyl Aceto Acetate Ethereal fruity sweet rum like.
Ethyl Anthranilate Sweet fruity grape like milder than methyl ester.
Ethyl Benzoate Warm floral fruity.
Ethyl Butyrate Powerful ethereal fruity odor of banana, pineapple.
Ethyl Caproate Strong fruity winey odor of apple blossom, pineapple.
Ethyl Caprylate Fruity winey, and sweet odor Rem of apricot and pineapple.
Ethyl Cinnimate Sweet balsamic, fruity honey like odor.
Ethyl Heptoate Powerful fruity wine like brandy berry.
Ethyl Iso Valerate Powerful and penetrating apple ethereal vinous fruity.
Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate Powerful diffusive apple, green fruity pungent of apple skins.
Ethyl Pelargonate Slight fatty oily fruity nut like.
Ethyl Valerate Fruity apple like.

Gamma Decalactone Peach like.


Geranyl Acetate Sweet fruity floral rosy.
Geranyl N Butyrate Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy like.

Helioforte Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.

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95 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Heliomet Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.


Heliotropine Very sweet floral, warm lightly spicy, dilution - cherry pie.
Heliotropyl Acetate Very sweet light floral, cherry fruity undertones.
Herbaflorat Green sweet fruity.
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate Oily sweet fruity green apple, and galbanum type odor.
Hexyl Acetate Sweet fruity berry like, pear like milder then amyl acetate.
Hexyl N Butyrate Powerful fruity heavy odor a melange of unripen fruits.

Ionone Beta Pure More fruity, and woody like than alpha.
Iso Amyl N Butyrate Powerful diffusive fruity sweet apricot pineapple like odor.
Iso Amyl Propionate Sweet fruity apricot pineapple.
Iso Butyl Caproate Mild herbaceous woody, but over all fruity oily odor.
Iso Damascone A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex.
Iso Nonyl Acetate Woody fruity soft refreshing odor.

Jasmin # 187 A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex.


Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn. A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.

Ketopommal Fruity sweet.

Laveo Menthyl Acetate Mild and sweet slightly fruity herbaceous minty odor.
Linalyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity recalling bergamot pear.
Linalyl Butyrate Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like.
Linalyl Iso Butyrate More floral less fruity.
Linalyl Propionate Fruity floral.

Manzanate A slightly spicy heavy ethereal fruity apple odor.


Melon Oliffac Fresh clean melon odor.
Methyl Anthranilate Mostly fruity and dry floral odor reminiscent of concord grapes.
Methyl Cinnimate Powerful fruity balsamic like, dilution - strawberry less balsamic.
Methyl Heptenone Extra Fruity green slightly waxy.
Methyl Heptoate Fruity green slight waxy berry like.
Methyl Nonyl Ketone Fruity rosy orange like.
Methyl Salicylate Warm sweet rosy fruity.
Mirabelle 2000 A fruity floral creation.

Nerolin Bromelia Crystals Delicate and sweet very tenacious floral fruity odor.
Neryl Acetate Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose.
Nopyl Acetate Sweet woody fruity odor.

Octyl Formate Powerful, and relatively diffusive fruity green orris.


Oxanone Very sweet fruity warm raspberry odor.

Peach Oliffac Peach.

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Glen O. Brechbill 96

Persicol Peach.
Perryfix Fruity sweet odor of pears, very nice and diffusive.
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fruity sweet, rosy floral.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity tea rose like.
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.
Prenyl Acetate Fresh diffusive, fruity banana, bergamot like.

Raspberry Ketone Very sweet fruity warm odor of raspberry preserves.

Strawberry Oliffac Fresh sweet fruity odor of strawberries.

Trans 2 Hexenyl Acetate Powerful and fresh green sweet fruity very natural odor.
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate Fruity floral.
Vanoris Woody fruity, soft refreshing odor of mild orris type.
Veltol Warm fruity caramellic sweet odor.
Veltol Plus Intensely sweet fruity bread like pleasant odor.
Velutone Faint, but sweet floral fruity odor.

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97 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Fruity

FLORAL FRUITY

A fragrance of a floral fruity type can be achieved by blending fruity elements of a single fruit or a com-
bination of two or more of which one can dominate. Apple accords that include, peach, apricot, pineapple, cas-
sis, prune, strawberry, and raspberry. Mixed with fine floral ingredients that include jasmine, violet, hyacinth
and others provide a rich show case of what can be achieved within this family. Becoming more popular each
day is the utilization of Papaya, and Passion Fruit. These perfumes are known to have a clean fruit quality and
a soft warmth.

Top Bergamot 9 % - Fruity

Rose - Trace, Strawberry - Trace, Green Notes .5 % Floral Fruity

Lavender 3 %, Orange 1 %, Ylang 1.5 %, Wintergreen - Trace

Middle Muguet 3 %

Hawthorn 2 %, Rose 6 %, Jasmin 4 % Floral

Violet 5 %, Carnation 2 %, Lilac 3 %, Ylang 2 %, Geranium - Trace

Base Musk 2 %

Vanilla 1 %, Tonka 3 %, Balsams 1 %, Warm Balsam

Civet - Trace, Sandal 1 %, Labdanum 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 98

Floral Fruity # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

18 Galaxolide 3 Geranyl Acetate


2 Coumarin 2 Anapear - Givaudan
23 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Undecatriene
9 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Lolitol
.1 Civet Powder # 1A 22 Aubepine
11 Benzyl Benzoate .1 Alcohol C - 10
12 Amyl Salicylate .1 Rose Centifolia
6 Musk Emeressence 1 Methyl Diantilis
7 Labdanum Resinoid 50 %/DPG .2 Aldehdye C - 12 Fram.
1 Amberonne 2 Strawberry Pure
42 Benzyl Acetate .1 Mirabelle 2000D
5 Cedraclaire 11 Orange Oil Sweet
1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
24 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 28 Lavender Oil, Moldovian
8 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 1 Geranyl & Neryl
4 Benzophenone 16 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
7 Meijiff 52 Linalyl Acetate
35 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Santalol
59 Geraniol .1 Leaf Acetal
7 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol .1 Rose De Mai
1 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 3 Bergamot Oil, Brazilian
3 Sandela 4 Scennal
125 Lilac Base 2 Ionone - alpha
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 cis - Jasmone
1 Javanol 1 Bourgenal
294 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
5 Hyacinth
3 Citronellol
6 Peach Oliffac 1,000
8 Lilial
.1 Thyme Oil Red
45 Ionone Intermediate Base
3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
.1 Elderflower Extract
44 Linalool Synthetic FCC
11 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
1 Cassia Oliffac

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99 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 1 C - 16 ( Strawberry )


22 Ethylene Brassylate 6 Lavender 50/52 %
7 Bacdanol .1 Violiff
11 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Aldehyde C - 10
.1 Civet Artificial I.A. 14 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Coumarin Substitute 8 Geranyl Acetate
24 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Thyme Captatus Oil
6 Vanisal 14 Orange Bigarade California
9 Benzyl Benzoate 37 Linalol Pure FCC
4 Cashmeran 1 Anapear - Givaudan
18 Sandalwood Mysore Core .1 Vanilla Abs. - Madagascar
1 Cinnamique Aldehyde 1 Nutmeg
.1 Rose Oxide R 17 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
33 Hydroxycitronellol 9 Terpineol P.G.
4 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Indian Sandal Core
8 Labdanum Resinoid .1 Niaouli Essence
1 Caryophylline 1 Rose Acetate
3 Eugenol .1 Methyl Salicylate
25 Aubepine ( Anisic Aldehyde ) .1 Leaf Alcohol
127 Lilac Base 1 Methyl Cedryl Ketone
29 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 Ylang Oil # 1
8 Citronellol 2 Kephalis
48 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 1 Geraniol 600
.1 Alcohol C - 8 1 Peach Oliffac
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 53 Linalyl Acetate
297 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
14 Ionone For Soap
48 Geraniol 1,000
9 Lyral
1 Bois De Gains
13 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
23 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
.1 Aldehyde C - 111 Lenic
3 Styrallylacetate
.1 Amyl Salicylate

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Glen O. Brechbill 100

Floral Fruity

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Benzophenone 9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol


3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 3 Pelargene
9 Benzoin Siam 41 Linalol
.1 Civet Base # 1 14 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
6 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 1 Neryl Acetate Pure
11 Vanilla Tincture 20 % .1 Methyl Salicylate
28 Di Hydro Coumarex 4 Jasmonyl
47 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Rhodiaflor SoA
29 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Amyl Salicylate
11 Sanjinol .1 Methyl Tuberate
8 Benzyl Benzoate 63 Linalyl Acetate
23 MDJ 1 Styrallylacetate
14 Anisic Aldehyde PQ 10 Orange Oil Midseason
1 Thymol Crustals 17 Jasphene
29 Eugenol .1 Aldehyde C - 10
1 Anisylalcohol 1 Mandarin Oil Essence
4 Labdanum Resinoid 1 Vartol
11 Rose For Soap Base 3 Nerol
10 Aldeido Cinamico 1 Methyl Ionone
6 Lavender Chinese .4 Geranylacetoin
7 Di Hydro Eugenol 1 Hydroxyciol
8 Citronellol 1 Strawberry Aldehyde
33 Geraniol .1 Reseda Body
135 Lilac Base 1 Jamaica Oil
19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
7 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Sandalore 1,000
289 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
10 Ethylene Brassylate
42 Lyral
1 Meranol
.1 Folione
.1 Citronellyl Acetate
1 Thyme Oil Redistilled
4 Apium Graveolens Linne

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101 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY
Top Bergamot 9 %

Wintergreen - Trace Strawberry - .5 %, Green Notes Floral Fruity


Spice Notes
Lavender 3 %, Orange 1 %, Ylang Ylang 1.5 %, Wintergreen - Trace

Middle Muguet 4 %

Carnation 2 %, Hawthorn 2 %, Rose 6 %, Jasmin 4 %, Violet 5 % Floral


Amyl Salicylate 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Lilac 11 %, Ylang Ylang 4 %, Reseda

Base Musk 3 %

Vanilla 1 %, Tonka 2 %, Balsamic 1 % Balsamic

Sandalwood 1 %, Labdanum 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 102

Floral Fruity # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

26 Osyrol 10 Peach Pure - Givaudan


9 Alcool Benzila 6 Benzaldehyde
.1 Veltol 3 Styrallyl Acetate
3 Amber Base 163 Citroflex # 2
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate 1 Hexyl Salicylate
4 Raspberry Ketone 1 Pepperwood
2 Mousse De Metre 45 Verdox
23 Benzylsalicylate .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate Substitute
9 Muskylein 17 Peach Aroma Base
5 Acetyl Iso Eugenol .1 Styrax Mix - Oil
6 Benzyl Butyrate .1 Alcool C - 9
1 Atalone 13 Fructone
8 Iridales 1 Ciclamen Aldeido
14 Ethyl Aceto Acetate 3 Top Muguet 18.326
3 Cetonal 1 Cassia Oil B & F
11 Iso Eugneol Replacement 2 Sparkling Champagne - IFF
6 y - Irone .1 Nerol Artessence
28 Jasphene 27 Linalyl Acetate
23 Hidroxicitronelal 19 Strawberry pure
10 Citronellol 4 Stemone
7 Laurine Extra 1 Rose Oil Maroc
31 Rose For Soap Base 3 Calendula Officinalis
1 Rosone 1 Anisyl Acetate
5 Eugenol, Iso 4 Kohinool
19 Hydroxycitronellal 97 % 2 Neryl Acetate
8 Methyl Ionone .5 Orange Peels
276 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
65 Geraniol Prime
3 Kir Base # 9741 1,000
3 Rosa Centifolia
19 Linalool
1 Tuberose Augaflor 25
1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
.1 Leaf Alcohol

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103 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rosone .2 Alcohol C - 10
12 Tonkarinol 1 Veryflor
.1 Civet Powder # 1B 58 Peach Pure - Givaudan
37 Musk 50 DPG 3 Acetyl Eugenol
3 Cedrenyl Acetate 9 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
23 Benzyl Salicylate .3 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Chandanone 14 Verdox
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Vanilla Absolute .1 Aldehyde C - 11
5 Alcool Cinamico .1 Fleurs d ‘ Oranger Abs. Artess
109 Benzyl Acetate 6 Green Peach Base
10 Cashmeran 6 Nerol
3 Benzoin Siam No. 2 .1 Undecatriene
9 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Nonadienal
1 Damascenia 4 Vert de Cassis Givco 180
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Methyl Pamplemousse
8 Tonka Resinoid 5 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
13 Citronellol 3 Iris Beurre Oil
.1 Rosalva 8 Bergamot C.P. Italy
72 Hedione 1 cis - 3 - Hexnyl Salicylate
1 Rose Templar 11 Persicol SA
16 Lilac Base 1 Tansy Oil Canada
123 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate
26 Geraniol 60 1 Orange Essence Oil, Brazil
303 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Lyral
9 Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB2040 1 Mimosa Artessence
1 Cyclal - C
3 Lavender 40/42
5 Gardenia Fleuriff 1,000
1 Beta Damascone
1 Tuberose Oliffac
3 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan
1 Styrallyl Acetate
2 Lilestralis

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Glen O. Brechbill 104

Floral Fruity # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Amberlyn 57 Hydroxycitronellal Extender


35 Cou Marin 19 Nectaryl
10 Patchouli Oil MD 3 Styrallyl Alcohol
8 Vanilline 39 Aurantiol pure
23 Benzyl Benzoate 10 Mandarin Oil Red
.1 Mousse Essence Abs. 1 Pepper Oil Black
.1 Civet Tincture 1 Geranyle Acetate
19 Sandalwood Substitute .3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Earth 9 Peach Aldehyde
6 Cinnamique Alcool 3 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
4 Glabanum Resinoid 10 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
6 Helional .1 Folione
9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 Damascenia
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 34 Linalyl Acetate
1 Geraniol 600 2 Iso, Eugenol
17 Vertofix Coeur 5 Bois Ambrene Forte
9 alpha - Ionone 11 Vetiver Acetate
8 Laurine 4 Tilanol Super
16 Hexil Cinnamic Aldeido 1 Florantone T
3 Di Methyl Octanol 9 Muguet Aldehyde 50
14 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 6 Verdyl Propionate
66 Geraniol Pur 1 C - 14
17 Citronellol .4 Galbanolide
7 Syringa
8 Oxanone
29 Tuberose Substitute 1,000
6 Vanillin, ethyl
335 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
10 Sandec Givco
26 Benzyl Salicylate
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
13 Grape Base
2 Dianthanol
26 Methyl Anthranilate
15 Linalol S 97

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105 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY

Top Grape 6 %

Rose, Peach, Bergamot 6 %, Violet Note Floral Fruity

Pineapple 1 %, Raspberry 1 %, Mandarin 1 %, Green Notes 1.5 %

Middle Rose 6 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 % Lilac 3 %, Jasmin 5 %, Violet 1 % Floral


Vertofix 1.5 %
DMPEC 1 % Lily 6 %, Carnation 5 %, Tuberose 3 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 %
Patchouli 1 %
Base
Tonka 3 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Vanilla - Trace, Vetiver 1 % Warm

Amber 1 %, Earth, Galbanum .5 %, Civet - Trace, Moss - Trace

Cutters

Cinnamic Alcohol 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1.5 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1.5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 35 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 106

Floral Fruity # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Amber Base 14 Tuberose Substitute


35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 8 Geranyl Acetate
.1 Civet Tincture 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
11 Sandalwood Substitute 9 Mandarin Italy
29 Cumarine 6 Styrallylacetate
15 Benzyl Benzoate 7 Aldeido C - 14
29 Cumarine 3 Ethyl Geranate
15 Benzyl Benzaote 1 Iso Jasmonate
9 Patchouli Oil - Indonesia 64 Geraniol
15 Benzyl Salicylate 23 Linalol
11 Galbanum Resinoide 1 Cassia Egypt
4 Vanillin 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
12 Gardenia Base .1 Rose Oxide
3 Iso Bornyl Crystals 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
54 Benzyl Acetate 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
9 Cinnamique Alcool 35 Linalyl Acetate
1 Earth 17 Aurantiol Pure
34 Hydroxycitronellol 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
12 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Raspberry Ketone
9 Cyclosia Base 3 Coriander Leaf
12 Jasmin Artificial Base .1 Undecavertol
11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 4 Muguet Aldehyde
10 Vertofix Coeur 1 Tuberose Oliffac
15 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Lysmeral
4 Vanillinethyl .4 Bonorax
3 Florex 5 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
8 Ionone Alpha .1 Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal
12 Laurine 1 Apium Graveolens
318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Citronellol
33 Lilac Base 1,000
9 MDJ
48 Iso Eugenol Replacement

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107 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Benzyl Benzoate 10 Ylang Ylang Substitute


3 Amberwood F 11 Mandarin Oil - Washed
9 Patchouly Oil 14 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
11 Sandalwood Extendre 3 Bois Ambrene Forte
3 Vanisal 32 Methyl Anthranilate
1 Anisque Alcool 9 Persicol SA
19 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Syringa Aldehyde
51 Benzyle Acetate 28 Tuberose Substitute
12 Cinnamique Alcool 13 Cyclosia Base - Firmenich
.1 Iso Butyl Quinoline 2 Acetate De Styrallyle
17 Benzylsalicylate 28 Linalol
.1 Civet Natural 1 Tagette Oil
10 Gardenia Base 13 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
1 Mousse De Chenne .3 Top Muguet 18.326
19 Vertofix Coeur 1 Clove Leaf Madagascar
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Oxanone
3 Laurine - Givaudan 1 Cyclorose
44 Eugenol 1 Hysimal
11 Jasmin Province Base 5 Gardenia Fleuriff
1 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Jasilyn
45 Lilie 35 Linalyl Acetate
18 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Bois Ambrene Forte
9 Citronellol 1 Canfora
1 Benzoin Siam # 1 .1 Leaf Alcohol
33 Terpineol Prime
42 Geraniol
330 Propileno Glico 1,000
.1 Vanilla Resinoid
8 Ionone Alpha Refined
1 Damascenone
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol
27 Aurantiol pure
3 Citronica
.1 Violiff

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Glen O. Brechbill 108

Floral Fruity # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Amborate 53 Benzyle Acetate


14 Benzoato Benzila 1 Styrallyl Propionate
.1 Civette French 2 Aldehyde C - 20
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 27 Methyl Anthranilate
4 Vanillin .1 Geranium Egyptian Type
22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 10 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
7 Galbanum Resinoid 12 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
10 Sandalwood Extender 24 Linalol
2 Ethyl Vanillin 6 Raspberry Ketone
9 Cinnamic Alcohol 9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
28 Helional 1 Styrallylacetate
.1 Earth 5 Geranyl Acetate
9 Jasmin Artificial Base .3 Cassia Oil 80/85 %
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
10 Laurine Extra 37 Linalyl Acetate S 96
7 Citronellol 3 Bois Amberene Forte
13 Cyclosia Base 22 Hedione
28 Tuberose Substitute 9 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
46 Eugenol 6 Florhydral
35 Geraniol Pure 7 Lysral
17 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 11 Mandarin Oil Italian Select
.1 Mousse De Metre .1 Roseessence 193 D
10 Patchouly Light Indonesia Oil .2 Leaf Alcohol
9 Gardenia Base 3 Nerol
13 Ionone Alpha 60
11 Phenyle Ethyl Alcohol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
26 Terpineol Prime
9 Methyl Ionone
13 Para Cresyl redistilled
35 Aurantiol
3 Top Galbanum 18.326
2 Dianthanol
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic

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109 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY

Top Apple 5 %

Hexyl Salicylate 5 % Green .5 %, Bergamot 5 %, Orange Blossom 1 % Fruity


Florhydral .5 %
Iso Eugenol Tech .5 % Pear .5 %
Rosyrane Super .5 %
Delta Damascone .1 % Rose 10 % - Sweet

Middle Jasmin 6 %, Muguet 4 %, Violet 1 % Floral

Peonile 3 % Aubepine .5 %, Carnation .5 %


Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4.5 %
Galbanum .5 %
Base
Musk 5 %, Iso E Super 2.5 %, Tonka 1 % Animalic, Amber

Vanilla 1 %, Sandalwood 1.5 %


Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 110

Floral Fruity # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme


1 Benzophenone 37 Verdox
38 Traseolide 700 Base .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Vanillin 14 Geranyl Acetate
7 Iso & Super 18 Linalool
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 22 Hexyle Salicylate
4 Caraway Oil - Ukraine .1 Orange Flower Abs.
23 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Rose Oxide R
8 Javanol 3 Lily Aldehyde
1 Anisyl Alcohol 9 Neroline
27 Peonile 10 Apple Oliffac
62 Acetate De Benzila .1 Alcool C - 8
5 Lilial 27 Linalyl Acetate
41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Rosyrane Super
4 Florhydral 8 Peach Pure
6 Vanillinethyl 1 Delta Damascone
1 Peomosa 3 Neroli Artessence
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure .2 Massada
.1 Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Apritone
1 Sandalore 4 Cetonal V
8 Citronellol 8 Mandarin Oil Italian Distilled
21 Lyral 3 Stemone
5 Eugenol 5 Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Ionone
17 Jasmin Artificial Base 7 Tangerine Oil Florida
6 Iso Eugenol Tech - Givaudan
318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
83 Geraniol 1,000
1 Sparkling Champagne - IFF
11 Anis Aldehyde PQ
13 DMBC - Acetate
9 Rose Substitute
3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
5 Spirogalbanone

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111 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 37 Verdox


1 Benzophenone .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
38 Traseolide 700 Base 14 Geranyl Acetate
9 Vanillin 18 Linalool
7 Iso E Super 22 Hexyl Salicylate
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Orange Flower Abs.
4 Caraway Oil - Ukraine .1 Rose Oxide R
23 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Lily Aldehyde
8 Sandela 9 Neroline
1 Vanilla Tincture 80 % 10 Apple Oliffac
27 Peonile .1 Alcool C - 8
62 Acetate De Benzila 27 Linalyl Acetate
5 Lilial 4 Rosyrane Super
41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Aldehyde C - 14
4 Florhydral 1 Delta Damascone
6 Vanillin Ethyl 3 Neroli Oliffac
1 Peomosa .2 Methyl Cedryl Ketone
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1 Apritone
.1 Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Cetonal V
1 Sandalore 8 Mandarin Oil Italian Distilled
8 Citronellol 3 Stemone
21 Liral 5 Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
5 Eugenol .1 Ionone
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 7 Tangerine Oil California
17 Jasmin Artificial Base
6 Iso Eugenol Tech - Givaudan
318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
83 Geraniol
1 Ghost Lisly
11 Aubepine
13 DMBC - Acetate
9 Rose Substitute
3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
5 Spirogalbanone
12 Methyl Ionone Gamma

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Glen O. Brechbill 112

Floral Fruity # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 5 Galbanum Resinoid


1 Benzophenone 12 Methyl Ionone Gamma
38 Traseolide 700 Base 37 Verdox
9 Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
7 Iso E Super 14 Geranyl Acetate Pure
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 18 Linalool
4 Caraway Oil - Ukraine 22 Hexyl Salicylate
23 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Jasmin Egyptian AbsoluteAbs.
8 Javanol .1 Rose Oxide L
1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Lily Aldehyde
27 Peonile 9 Neroline
62 Hedione 10 Apple Oliffac
5 Lioral .1 Alcool C - 8
41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 27 Linalyl Acetate
4 Florhydral 4 Rosyrane Super
6 Vanillinethyl 8 Peach Pure
1 Florymoss 1 Delta Damascone
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 3 Neroli Artessence
.1 Cinnamic Aldehyde .2 Massada
1 Javanol 1 Apritone
8 Citronellol 4 Cetonal V
21 Liral 8 Mandarin Oil Italian Distilled
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Stemone
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 5 Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
17 Jasmin Artificial Base .1 Ionone
6 Iso - Eugenol 7 Tangerine - North Korea
318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
83 Geraniol
1 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan 1,000
11 Hawthorn
13 DMBC - Acetate
9 Rose Substitute
3 Styrallyl Acetate

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113 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY

Top Melon 17 %

Green Notes .5 %, Violet - Trace, Apple 5 % Floral Fruity

Bergamot 5 %, Fruity, Strawberry 3 %, Peach 2 %

Middle Jasmin 7 %

Benzyl Butyrate 1.5 % Muguet 4 %, Rose 8 % - Fruity, Violet 3 % Floral


Ethyl Aceto Acetate 1 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Lily 2 %, Carnation 1 %

Base Veltol - Trace

Raspberry - Trace, Sandalwood 2 %, Moss - Trace Mossy

Musk 2 %, Amber - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 114

Floral Fruity # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Veltol 24 Linalool
11 Benzyl Alcohol 3 Benzladehyde
3 Heliotropine 53 Geraniol 60
24 Sandalwood Extender 3 Acetyl Eugenol
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
6 Amber Substitute .1 Metil Tuberato
5 Raspberry Ketone 103 Citroflex # 2
3 Berryflor 3 Methyl Amyl Ketone
12 Benzyle Butyrate .1 Rosacene
4 Muskylein 4 Geranyl Acetate
33 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido .1 Neofolione
21 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Ghost Lily Accord - IFF
1 Ambrox DL Coeur 33 Verdox
9 Ethyl Aceto Acetate 4 Neryl Acetate
5 Musk Ambrette Substitute .5 Jamaica Oil
74 Benzyl Acetate 9 Nectaryl
37 Fructone 33 Linalyl Acetate
3 Vetamber ( Kephalis ) 5 Strawberry Aroma Base
6 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Rosone 1 Jasmone
14 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Bourgenal
12 Serenolide 1 Iritone
8 Citronellol 3 Santalyl Acetate
6 Methyl Para Cresole 1 Iso Amyl Geranate
3 Javanol .1 Ribes Nigrum
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
277 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Iraldeine Gamma 1,000
38 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
7 Lilie
3 Galbanodor CG
2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
9 Methyl Jasmonate

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115 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Alcohol 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate


1 Mousse De Chenne .3 DMBC - Acetate
.1 Veltol 159 Fructone
45 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Galbanum Art Essence
19 Galaxolide 50 48 Geraniol 60
22 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 22 Linalool
28 Sandalwood Extender .1 Nonadienal
.1 Civet Powder # 1b 1 Osmanthus Fleuriff
11 Benzyl Butyrate 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Cedrafix 3 Cyrohexylethylacetate
15 Benzyl Acetate 22 Strawberry pure
1 Amberwood 1 Kir Base # 9741
9 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Alcohol C - 8
63 Acetate De Benzila 3 Neryl Acetate
4 p - Cresyl Acetate 1 cis - Rose Oxide
.1 Rosalva 9 Di Ethyl Malonate
3 Oxanone 28 Linalyl Acetate
6 Lilie 1 Massada
12 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Jasmorange
3 Woodynol I 1 Lolitol
27 Aldeido Hexil Cinamico .1 Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate
1 Rose Crystals 1 Santalyl Acetate
16 Laurine Extra 3 Phenafleur
.1 Alpha Damascone 1 Jasilyn
23 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
274 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
6 Citronellol 1,000
22 Jasmin Province Base
7 Water Melon Ketone ( Aquamor )
4 Hysimal
5 Methyl Iso Eugenol
6 Ionone For Soap
3 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
33 Verdox

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Glen O. Brechbill 116

Floral Fruity # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Amber Base 6 DMBC - Acetate


.1 Veltol .1 Folione
11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 9 Citroflex # 2
24 Galaxolide .1 Methyl Cinnimate
38 Phthalate D-Ethyle 22 Linalool synthetique
1 Heliotropine 28 Verdox
1 Rasberry Ketone 111 Melon Oliffac
7 Vanillin 7 Peach pure - Givaudan
11 Benzyle Butyrate .2 Aldehyde C - 8
.1 Vetimoss 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
24 Benzysalicylate 12 Melonyl 86471 VMF
29 Ionone Intermediate Base 6 Berryflor
9 Eugenol 4 Aquamor
11 Fructone 33 Linalyl Acetate
3 Eugenol 3 Geranyl Acetate 60 % FCC
58 MDJ 5 Di Ethyl Malonate
31 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Stemone
8 Lilial 13 Aldehyde C - 16
3 Jasmin Artificial Base 1 Mugone S 207M
29 Osyrol .2 3 - Nonen - 2 - ONE
8 Jasphene 1 Perryfix
11 Citronellol 4 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
7 Laurine 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
64 Geraniol 3 Tangerine
9 Lyral 6 Bergamot Augaflor 4
282 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Vanilla Tincture 20 %
1 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
8 Terpineol Prime
1 Phenoxanol
3 Styrallyl Acetate
.1 Tuberose Oliffac
4 Hidroxicitronelal
23 Peach Aroma Base

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117 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY

Top Strawberry 4 %

Blueberry 6 %, Lemon 2 %, Orange 5 % Fruity

Peach 2 %, Grape 3 %, Pineapple 1 %, Cherry 1 %

Middle Violet 7 %

Ethyl Butyrate .5 % Rose 6 % - Sweet, Hawthorn 1 %, Carnation 1 % Floral


Amyl Acetate .5 %
Benzyl Butyrate .5 % Jasmin 4 %, Cinnamic Alcohol 2.5 %

Base Vanilla 2 %

Veltol .5 %, Raspberry .5 %, Sandalwood .5 % Sweet

Musk .5 %
Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 118

Floral Fruity # 5a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Veltol 4 Cassifix
1 Amberlyn 2 Rasberry Leaves - IFF
11 Alcool Benzila 13 Methyl Anthranilate
13 Vanisal .1 Alcohol C - 8
2 Acetate Iso Eugenol 9 Linalol Natural
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cis - Jasmone
24 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 14 Persicol SA
6 Cremophor - Basf 7 Bergamot Oil Substitute
21 Alcool Cinamico 1 Liffarome
36 Blueberry Treatarome Base 5 Geranyl Acetate
5 Amyl Acetate 1 Vertosine
4 Benzyl Butyrate 3 Rose Acetate
3 Oxanone 29 Strawberry Aldehyde
9 Muscone 6 Nerol
10 alpha - Ionone 8 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
8 Ethyl Vanillin 22 Linalyl Acetate
53 Claigeon 11 Aurantiol
55 Iraldein Standard Substitute 48 Orange CP Brazil
17 Eugenol 2 Neryl Acetate
4 Citronellol Extra .3 Aldehyde C - 10
1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Cherry Extract
12 Ethyl Butyrate 1 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
53 Geraniol 1 Jasmone
5 Metil Benzoato
19 Anisic Aldehyde
307 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Alpha Ionone 80
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
6 4 - (P - Acetoxy phenyl ) 2 - Butanone
3 3 - Octen - 2 - One
9 Benzaldehyde
.1 Folione
32 Blueberry Base
13 Lemon Oil

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119 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fruity # 5b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

10 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 4 Geranyl Acetate


4 Heliotropine 17 Methyl Anthranilate
12 Vanisal 1 Fraistone
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Methyl Jasmonate
5 Veltol 6 Nerol
1 Anisyl Alcohol 6 Strawberry Pure
38 Blueberry Base 1 Bigarade Oxide
8 Benzaldehyde 1 Geranyl Acetate
24 Benzyl Slaicylate - IFF .1 Apricot Essence
5 Raspberry Ketone 27 Linalyl Acetate
10 Eugenol .3 Muskylein
9 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Neryl Acetate
22 Cinnamique Alcool 22 Lemon C.P. & Distilled
30 Blueberry Treatarome Base 13 Aurantiol Pure
5 Ethyl Butyrate 28 Aldehyde C - 16
19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme .1 Ivor Corps
6 Citronellol 96 FCC .1 Folione
5 Methoxymelonal 1 Cassia Oliffac
3 Benzophenone 46 Orange Sweet Israel
67 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Galbanodor
7 Amyl Acetate 1 Meranol
8 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Wardia
45 Geraniol 1 Irival
4 Hawthorn Base
329 Di Propileno Glico
.1 Civet Powder # 1A 1,000
12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Benzyl Butyrate
1 Geranyl Iso Valerate
43 Hedione
3 Cremaphor Basf
12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
9 Linalol
33 Persicol SA
1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
.1 Cherry Extract
1 Vanilys

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Glen O. Brechbill 120

Floral Fruity # 5c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Balsam Peru Oil 21 Peach Aldehyde


23 Benzylsalicylate 4 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
1 Veltol 9 Aurantiol pure
10 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 13 Bergamot Oil Substitute
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 5 Aldeido C - 16
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Benzaldehyde
9 Benzyl Butyrate 51 Orange Blood Teracco
42 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 6 Linalool Pure 99.5 %
8 Cremophor 1 Anisylalcohol
21 Alcool Cinamico 17 Lemon Oil, Brazil ( Tahiti Type )
65 Ionone Intermediate Base 1 Nerol Coeur
3 Amyl Salicylate .1 Aldehyde C - 10
73 Blueberry Base .1 Methyl Cinnimate
3 Di Hydro Iso Jasmone 4 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
11 Iso Eugenol Replacement 11 Linalyl Acetate natural
1 Berryflor 13 Methyl Anthranilate
1 Cetylia Base B 1 Neryl Acetate - IFF ( Ventos )
12 Ionone Alpha 60 .4 Perryfix
9 Citronellol 2 Iso Nonyl Acetate
12 Hawthorn 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
27 Blueberry Treatarome Base .3 Iso - Eugenol
4 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1 Geranyl Iso Valerate
53 Geraniol 4 Mandarinal
9 Ethyl Butyrate 2 Nerol
4 Vanillin
330 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Lilial 1,000
6 Geranyl Acetate
9 Methoxy Melonal
27 Hercolin - D
1 OJ Carbinyl STV
.1 Alcool C - 9
9 Oxanone
3 Ethyl Vanisal

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121 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Rose Fragrance Chemicals

Adoxal Sweet floral waxy rosy referred to as ozone like.


Alcohol C - 8 Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy and sweet odor.
Alcohol C - 9 Powerful oily floral fresh petal like, dilution - rosy.
Alcohol C - 11 Lenic Fresh rather fatty odor, citrusy waxy rosy petal like note.
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor.
Alpha Damascone Intensely fruity reminiscent of plums and roses.

Benzophenone Powdery geranium rose like.


Beta Damascone Fruity apple rose like odor.
Bois De Rose Essence Slightly rose like with a sweet undertone.
Bois De Rose Oil Floral odor reminiscent of rose orange mignoette.
Bois De Rose Syn AB2034 Excellent substitute for bois de rose oil.
Bois De Rose Terpeneless Oil Floral and reminiscent of rose orange and mignonette.

Citronellol BRI Fresh, clean floral rosy odor.


Citronellol Oil Coeur Fresh, rosy, floral rosy.
Citronellol Oil Extra Purer grade, fresher rosy.
Citronellol 700 Clean fresh rose, citronellol 70%, Geraniol 7%, Nerol 18%, D M Octanol 5%.
Citronellol 700 98TA Clean, fresh, rose.
Citronellol 750 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 73%.
Citronellol 80 Intermediate Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 83.5%.
Citronellol 850 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 86%.
Citronellol 850 Clean fresh rose, citronellol 86%, geraniol & nerol 12%.
Citronellol 950 Clean rose like, citronellol 95%, geraniol and nerol 4 %.
Citronellol Last Fraction Rosy, not as sweet as a typical fresh floral rose.
Citronellyl Acetate Fresh, rosy, fruity odor reminiscent of geranium oil.
Citronellyl Acetate A Sweet fruity geranium rose citronellyl acetate 85%, neryl acetate 5%.
Citronellyl Acetate BRI Fresh, rosy, fruity odor.
Citronellyl Acetate Pure Sweet, fruity rose like, citronellyl acetate 95%, neryl acetate 5%.
Citronellyl Anthranilate Rosy, fruity odor, extremely long lasting.
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor.
Citronellyl N Butyrate Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal like.
Citronellyl Formate Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light reminiscent of geranium rose.
Citronellyl Formate Natural Sweet citrus floral honey.

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Glen O. Brechbill 122

Citronellyl Lactone D Tenacious, spicy, rose absolute character.


Citronellyl Methyl Acetal A little known citrus note very effective natural note to lemon.
Citronellyl Nitrile A green rose like scent almost reminiscent of citralva.
Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet herbaceous rosy, heavy and reminiscent of rose petals.
Citronellyl Propionate Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor.
Citronellyl Tiglate Leafy, rosy geranium note useful in geranium, rose petal bases.
Citronellyl Valerate Rosy, herbaceous honey like aroma.

Damas Rose FM1248 Is very damascone rose directed.


Damascenia Rich sweet deep floral rose.
Damascenia Rosa Abs. Rich warm spicy floral and very deep rose odor, honey tones.
Damascenia Rosa Concrete Extremely rich deep and sweet floral truly reminiscent pink rose.
Damascenia 185 SA Very powerful warm fresh top note of rose otto.
Damascenone A powerful floral fruity note, very natural rose plum like.
Damascone Beta Powerful, fruity floral note reminiscent of blackcurrant, plum, rose, dil.
Delta Damascone A hybrid floral rose compound.
Di Butyl Sulfide Green, violet leaf, rose geranium character.
Di Hydro Carvyl Acetate Floral with rose, and cuminsed background, useful in floral accords.
Di Methyl Octanol Waxy dry rosy odor.
Di Phenyl Oxide Harsh floral green, metallic geranium rose type.
Dorina S A Floral rose specialty base extremely fresh and floral.

Ethyl Ortho Methoxy Benzoate Ylang tuberose, floral complex with raspberry and phenolic nuiance.
Farnesyl Acetate Faint, green floral rosy odor use in rose apple and herbal accords.
Florane Powerful, green crrushed petals rose like.
Florex A deep not sweet floral rose fragrance.

Geraniofix AB751 Sweet green geranium rose, best used in 10% dilution.
Geraniol Mild, and sweet floral rose.
Geraniol Coeur Floral, rose oily and green.
Geraniol Extra Sweet floral rose coeur grade.
Geraniol For Soap AB2015 Economical sweet rose base in lieu of geraniol last several days.
Geraniol 5020 Blend of geraniol 52%, nerol 25%, citronellol 20%.
Geraniol 60 Sweet floral rose.
Geraniol 600 Fresh rose petal, geraniol 60%, nerol 25%.
Geraniol 7030 Sweet fresh rose, geraniol 71%, nerol 19%.
Geraniol 8020 Sweet fresh rose with a citrus note, geraniol 81%, nerol 18%.
Geraniol 90 Mild and sweet floral rose.
Geraniol 980 Dry, rose petal, geraniol 97%.
Geraniol NC Floral, spicy note reminiscent of rose & palmarosa with carnation tone.
Geraniol N Supra Typical rosy mild, reminiscent of palmarosa oil
Geraniol RG Rose alcohols mix with citrus, verbana notes of nerol, dewy.
Geraniol WT Floral rose note with fresh verbena nuances.

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123 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Geraniol X Palmarosa Oil Sweet and floral rose like.


Geranium Absolute Intense and powerful somewhat leafy earthy but soft pleasant.
Geranium Algerian Lighter more rosy leafy.
Geranium Augaflor 9 A powerful rose like odour of Bourbon with a high degree of tenacity.
Geranium Bourbon Green leafy rosy strong.
Geranium Bourbon Oliffac An economical simulation of the natural oil for fine fragrances.
Geranium Bourbon Super A low priced apporach to geranium oil.
Geranium Chinese Natural source is China with a fine herbaceous rose like fragrance.
Geranium Concrete A delightful earthy herbaceous somewhat rosy foilage green like odor.
Geranium Egyptian Floral geranium rose blended from different batches.
Geranium Moroccan Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor.
Geranium Oil Has a full leaf like rose odor.
Geranium Oil Syn ABQ 5629 Excellent substitute, interesting fruity and rosy nuances.
Geranium 222 Powerful green, leafy rosy with a fruiy minty undertone, rich.
Geranodyle Is a complex mixture with a fresh geranium odour.
Geranyl Acetate Sweet fruity floral rosy.
Geranyl Acetate Extra The finest sweet fruity floral rosy material available at low cost.
Geranyl Acetate Pure Sweet, fruity and rose, geranyl acetate 98%.
Geranyl Acetone Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green.
Geranyl Anthranilate Heavy sweet floral rose.
Geranyl Benzoate Faint rosy, very tenacious mildly floral.
Geranyl N Butyrate Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy odor.
Geranyl Caproate Fruity geranium rose like.
Geranyl Formate Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor.
Geranyl Iso Butyrate Sweeter than n butyrate.
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Soft floral honey rose like.
Geranyl Propionate Sweet fruity rose warm.
Geranyl Tiglate Quite pleasant sweet herbaceous geranium like fragrance.

Iso Amyl Geranate Rosy, lemon honey character.


Iso Butyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful leafy rosy musky fragrance.
Iso Damascone A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex.
Iso Rose An isomeric rose floral compound.

Lorena Has a fresh odor of rose that recalls tang of the sea.

Meranol Dry rose petal.


Methyl Nonyl Ketone Fruity rosy orange like.
Methyl Tuberate Floral most likely tuberose, rose like material not sweet.

Neo Rose Otto A very high quality rose otto replacement at a lower cost.
Nerol Sweet rosy refreshing wet seashore like.
Nerol A Sweet rosy refreshing.
Nerol BG A good general purpose rose verbena quality with a warm spicy.

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Nerol Coeur Moderately priced lemon verbena note dominating the rosy.
Nerol 800 Sweet fresh citrusy rose.
Nerol 850 Sweet citrusy, rose and fresh.
Nerol G A powerful refreshing, clean lemon rose odor.
Nerol 900 Sweet floral rose fresh citrus like.
Nerol O M Earthy, musty, palmarosa notes covering the verbena character.
Nerol Petals Sweet rosy leafy refreshing.
Nerol Regular A green note blends with the rose verbena tones in this grade.
Nerol Special A fresh sea shore like floral rose.
Neryl Acetate Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose.
Neryl Butyrate Green waxy oily and fatty.
Neryl Formate Rosy, herbaceous green character.
Neryl Geranyl Acetate Citrus sweet floral.
Neryl Iso Butyrate Rosy, berry character.
Neryl Iso Valerate Rich, clary sage of bergamot odor in oriental, oakmoss.
Neryl Propionate Fruity, jam like odor used in citrus and floral fragrances.

Octanol 2 A floral rosy fresh odor.


Octanol Nitrile 10 B - 2216 A rosy floral odor.

Palmarosa Oil Sweet floral rosy odor.


Palmarosa Oil Brazil Palmarosa has a sweet, floral, rosy scent.
Palmarosa Oil Guatemala A pale yellow or olive colored liquid with a sweet floral rosy odor.
Palmarosa India Palmarosa oil has a sweet floral with a hint of rose.
Patinol AB286 Is more geranium rosy in character then geranofix.
Peomosa Floral, rose mimosa like with a special light dry out.
Peonile With its geranium-rosy character provides interesting floral effects.
Phenirat Sweet, fruity, floral like rose somewhat honey.
Phenoxanal Fresh floral rose.
Phenoxy Ethanol Mild rosy, but also metallic.
Phenoxy Ethyl Alcohol Mild honey rose odor.
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Sweet fruity rosy floral.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetal Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Mild and warm rose honey like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Extra Fine, smooth, more powerful quality lasts a few days.
Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate Very faint floral balsamic odor reminiscent of dry rose petals.
Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate Very faint and sweet pleasant balsamic odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity tea rose type.
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Heavy and very sweet floral balsamic odor, musky honey like.
Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate Floral possibly faintly rosy pratically no odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.
Pivane 22 A sweet rosy floral fragrance.

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125 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Pivarose Pleasant, tea rose.


Polarose Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor.

Racinia A dry floral rose complex.


Rhodinol Coeur Geranium rose.
Rhodinol X Citronella Naturally sweet rosy floral.
Rhodinol X Geranium Oil Floral, rose sweet waxy and powdery.
Rhodinyl Acetate Sweet, light refreshing rose muguet, green leafy notes.
Rhodinyl N Butyrate Intensely sweet mellow fruity deep rosy.
Rhodinyl Formate Fresh leafy green delicate rosy.
Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet, very deep soft honey like rose.
Rhodinyl Propionate Rich and sweet fruity floral rose geranium type.
Rhodinyl Salicylate Very weak sweet rosy powdery balsamic odor.
Rhodinyl Valerate Heavy fruity, slight earthy green, but also sweet odor.
Rosacene A nice light delicate floral rose compound not overly sweet.
Rosalva Powerful fatty oily, waxy rose odor.
Rosamusk Unusual combination of rose with musky modifications.
Rose Abs. Morocco Extremely fresh and sweet floral rose odor.
Rose Abs. Oliffac An inexpensive substitute of natural absolutes from rose petals.
Rose Abs. Turkey A tenacious diffusive sweet floral, truly captures fresh flower.
Rose AB380D Rose absolute, slightly herbal animalic tones.
Rose Acetate Mild floral rosy.
Rosania FM1018 Diffusive natural green geranium rose.
Roseate Delicate moist rose petal tone with gentle power.
Rose Bulgare Oil Intensely rose like, and sweet.
Rose Concrete Morocco Has a warm deep floral, slight woody sweet with honey like notes odor.
Rose Crystals Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor.
Rose De Mai Rich, sweet, deep rosy very tenacious odor with honey notes.
Rose De Mai Abs. Rich and sweet deep rosy tenacious odor.
Rose De Mai Abs. French Has a rich sweet, deep rosy very tenacious odor.
Rose Essence 193 A very strong, but yet sweet floral rosy fresh odor.
Rose Essence Bulgare A very diffusive vivacious rose odor, slightly sweet and floral.
Rose Geranium Augaflor 19 A wonderfully rich, warm rosey odour reminiscent of a summer day.
Rose Givco 217 Warm rosy resembling natural Turkish oil quite delightful.
Roseessence 17.600B Full, rich, strong as natural rose otto bulgarian.
Rose Moroccan Abs. Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose odor.
Rose Moroccan Oil Fragrant rose and characteristic of the flower.
Rose Nitrile A rich rose geranium woody note with excellent strength.
Rose Oil Moroccan Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose.
Rose Oil Moroccan Select The finest moroccan rose fragrance at an attractive cost.
Rose Oil Otto Warm deep floral slightly spicy odor reminiscent of red roses.
Rose Oil Templar A typical sweet rose odor whose source is rooted in English lore.
Rose Oil Turkey Diffusive strong vibrant floral rose scent reminiscent of the rose.
Rose Oil Turkey Commercial An extremely floral typical rose odor, not intense or over powering.

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Rose Oil Turkish Sweet floral rose.


Rose Orient Intensely rose like, mysterious diffusive, rounded and nice.
Rose Otto Augaflor A deep, warm, rich unmistakable rose odor.
Rose Otto Syn. Pour Savon A low cost simulation of rose otto for general purposes.
Rose Otto Turque Oil Sweet, intense floral rose.
Rose Oxide D Gives fresh herbal rose effects and rosy green nuances.
Rose Oxide Inactive A compound with an intensive note of roses.
Rose Oxide L Constituent of bulgarian attar of roses.
Rose Oxide R Reminiscent of rose geranium.
Rose Oxyde Green, very diffusive fresh note which resembles geranium oil.
Rose Oxyde Gauche Similar although sweeter, fresher and more diffusive.
Rosetal A Diffusive rose absolute type odor for use in floral based fragrances.
Rose Tenace Diffusive long lasting rose odor suggests otto of rose.
Rose Turkey Absolute Deep sweet rich rosy floral odor, souce Turkey.
Rose Turque Essence Fragrant rose characteristic.

Top Rose ABQ5644 The top note of bulgarian rose oil lasts a few weeks.
Trans De Cadro Beta Naphyl Floral rosy.
Trans 4 Decenal # 382 Floral rosy.
Tuberanthia SA Tuberose.
Tuberose Abs. A heavy sweet almost nauseating floral odor of tuberose.
Tubereuse 181 A reconstitution of tuberose absolute, rich warm, sensual.
Tuberose Oliffac Sweet intense floral character of tuberose.
Tuberose Pomenade A heavy sweet almost overpowering tuberose odor.

Wardia A classic reproduction of rose de mai absolute, powerful.

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127 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Violet Fragrance Chemicals

Alpha Ionone Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive.
Alpha Ionone 60 Mild floral violet odor.
Alpha Ionone White Coeur Floral violet like.

Beta Ionone Warm woody dry odor with a fruity undertone


Beta Ionone R Dry powdery, floral, woody, orris.
Bicyclohexanone P Cyclamen floral note with orris, woody, ozone nuances, fresh.

Cetonal Is an elegant ingredient used in woody, orris accords as well as with


leather, tobacco and animal notes where it acts as an excellent
blending agent and adds to the harmony of a fragrance.
Cetone Alpha Tenacious floral violet compound.
Cetone V Has many facets to its character and thus has many uses. It blends
well with ionones, citrus notes, lavender, fruity and oriental accords
where it adds body and excellent diffusion.

Folione Used in traces, produces violet-leaf and cucumber notes. It blends


extremely well with products in the orris family of ionones.

Ionantheme 100 % Is used largely in floral, violet bouquets, but also in fruit accords
to provide volume and substantivity. Is fruitier and less woody
than either Irisone Alpha or Irisone pure.
Ionol Alpha Berry, sweet ionone like with a woody floral powdery note.
Ionol Beta Sweet, woody berry powdery, floral and fruity.
Ionone Warm, balsamic, violet floral.
Ionone Alpha Floral, violet, woody fruity.
Ionone Alpha Extra Floral violet.
Ionone Alpha Beta Regular Warm, woody more violet, alpha ionone 60%, beta ionone 30%.
Ionone Alpha Methyl C Floral violet.
Ionone Alpha Methyl Naphyl A very faint slightly sweet floral violet type odor.
Ionone Alpha Refined Fruity, woody violet, fresher, alpha Ionone 81%, beta ionone 9%.
Ionone Alpha Regular Warm, woody violet, alpha ionone 70%, beta ionone 30%.
Ionone Alpha White Coeur Floral violet.
Ionone Beta Pure More fruity, and woody like than alpha.

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Glen O. Brechbill 128

Ionone 100 % Violet odor with a suggestion of cedarwood and orris.


Iraldein Delta Floral violet as well as with dry powdery iris nuances.
Iraldein Gamma Sweetly floral like violet slightly fruity like fig and raspberry.
Iraldein 100% Pleasant floral like violet as well as somewhat woody.
Iralia A very pure orris or violet note of powdery woody character.
Iris Aldehyde Extremely powerful, and diffusive orisy odor.
Iris Beurre Essence Orris violet.
Iris Beurre Oil Orris violet.
Iris Concrete Woody oily violet like odor.
Iris Concrete 8 % Irone Orris, violet leaf like green odor.
Iris Concrete 11 % Irone Orris, violet leaf like green odor.
Iris Concrete 199 KSA Woody fatty oily but distinctly violet floral.
Iris Givco 204/2 This is a floral base specifically designed to match the scent of orris absolute
for use in functional applications. This reconstitution reflects the different facets
of natural orris absolute: gourmand, floral, woody and powdery. Iris Givco
204/2 acts as a modifier of Isoraldeine 70 and Ionone Beta, boosting and
imparting sparkling and vibrant effects to them. It also blends beautifully with
floral-green accords and enriches woody/chypre themes. This base does not
lead to discolouration. Cost-effective, natural-smelling and stable replace-ment
for orris absolute
Iris Noir Abs. Violet floral orris like.
Irisodor Violet floral.
Irisone Alpha Widely used in perfume compositions of almost all types. The use of the fra-
grances in rose bases is very common. It is used in woody, floral, balsamic,
piney or citrus-like fragrances.
Irisone Pure Widely used in perfumes designed for functional products. Its powerful, rich,
floral-violet character is easy to blend with many floral, woody, aldehydic,
fruity and chypre accords.
Iris 199 D Wax like mass of woody, but distinctly violet odor.
Iris 199/K SA A reconstitution of iris concrete.
Iris 199 SA A reconstitution of iris absolute.
Iris Resin Deep sweet slightly woody tobacco like.
Iris Resinoid Oily woody violet like.
Iritone A velvety floral note in the violet ionone family.
Irival Concentrated orris note.
Irone Alpha Refined Soft warm orris violet like sweet and diffusive.
Iso Butyl Benzoate Weak fresh orisy odor.

Linalool Terpenes Floral woody iris, quite harsh odor not pleasant.

Mahagonate Woody spicy resembling patchouli, vetiver and sandalwood iris.


Merion Highly diffusive floral, oriental woody complex with violet note.
Methyl Ionone Warm, woody floral violet lasts several days.
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Orris violet floral.

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129 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Floral, violet, isomeric mixture.


Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso Precious wood tobacco, creamy violet.
Methyl Ionone Alpha 60 Floral, violet, isomeric mixture.
M I A Iso Super FM1110 A sophisticated product in which the violet florality is enhanced.
Methyl Ionone Beta Woody warm odor.
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur Purer grade more woody, and warm.
Methyl Ionone Extra Mild floral odor of violets.
Methyl Ionone Extra 500 Floral, woody, violet.
Methyl Ionone Gamma A A floral violet woody isomeric mixture.
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur Woody, floral violet.
Methyl Ionone Gamma Extra Mild floral odor of violets.
Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure Woody, floral violet, dry.
Methyl Ionone Gamma Replacer Familiar woody floral complex, tobacco like undertone.
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme Floral violet woody fruity complex.
Methyl Ionone Regular Mild floral odor of violets.
Methyl Ionone Regular 450 Violet, woody.
Methyl Ionone Residue Harsh floral violet slightly woody.
Methyl Ionone Tails A harsh woody floral violet odor, reminiscent of ionone beta.
Methyl Ionone Terpenes Harsh woody solvent masking odor.
Methyl Octine Carbonate Green violet leaf like.
Methyl Octine Carbonate Sub. An unrestricted and safe replacement.
Methyl Octyne Carbonate Widely used in floral notes. It produces the powerful yet subtle
note of violet leaves with a fruity-vegetable cucumber undertone.

Neofolione Blends very well with most floral notes, especially violet, where it is particular-
ly useful in replacing Folione. It imparts freshness and diffusion and has good
stability.
Nonadienal Blends well in green top note accords. Used as a modifier it imparts
a natural violet leaf aspect.
2,6 Nonadien 1 OL Cucumber or violet flower odor.
2, 6, Nonadienal # 332 Intense powerful vegetable green, reminiscent of violet leaves.
2, 6 Nonad 1 al Diethyl Acetal Smooth floral violet, melon odor.
Nonadienol A constituent of violet leaves as well as of cucumber. Is effective in a
wide range of applications in adding a natural melon-cucumber note.
It is olfactively similar to Nonadienal, but is fruitier and less leafy.

Octyl Formate Powerful and relatively diffusive fruity green orris.


Orriniff 25 % IPM Floral, violet, orris leather.
Orris Abs. A floral green violet like odor.
Orris Augaflor 13 This beautiful orris blend has all of the orris characteristics, warm in the top
note, cascading into a sea of violet, thus extending the Perfumer's art to include
this delicate fragrance.
Orris Concrete Floral violet.

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Glen O. Brechbill 130

Orris Concrete Natural Oily violet leaf like.


Orris Conc. Natural Essence Violet floral.
Orris Extract Waxy sweet floral violet with berry woody nuances.
Orris Oil Floral violet.
Orris Resin Abs. Floral violet.
Orris Resinoid A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.

Parmavert Powerful floral green, sweet and violet leaf like.


Pseudo M I Terpenes A harsh floral violet like odor.

Raldeine A GV A special quality of methyl ionone containing larger amounts of the


n-alpha greater 50 %, and n-beta typically 15 %. The result is a woodier,
fruitier olfactive character.
Rhuboflor Powerful green note, fruity floral and herbal, undertone orris.

Violet A favorite in Sufi healing since a hadith of the Prophet states that
"the excellence of the extract is above all others extracts as the
excellence of me is above all of the rest of creation". A shy yet
deep and early scent for quiet beauties.
Violet Abs. French Strong herbaceous floral violet.
Violet Abs. Rue Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the french oil.
Violet Abs. Selection Strong floral violet odor.
Violet Augaflor 27 A fresh, green, violet odour. Long lasting, with a wonderful deep
green odour.
Violet Colorless 54.5219 Herbaceous floral odor of the violet.
Violet Concrete Characteristic of fresh violet leaves with a possible source in Egypt.
Violet Leaf Absolute Oily green cucumber leafy fresh sweet floral odor quite strong.
Violet Leaf Abs. N.Y. 11149 Green floral violet, very subtle slightly sweet.
Violet Leaves Abs. Powerful green leaf odor delicately floral note reminiscent violet.
Violet Leaves Abs. Green, melon floral, fresh waxy and leafy.
Violet Leaf Abs. Slightly violet, not strong or sweet.
Violiff Floral, violet, banana.

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131 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Jasmin Fragrance Chemicals

Benzyl Acetate Strong sweet fresh fruity floral odor of many types of flowers.
Benzyl Acetate Coeur A richer, softer jasmin.
Benzyl Acetate FFC Floral, jasmine
Benzyl Propionate Fruity sweet, floral undertone type jasmin.

Claigeon Jasmin-like.
Cepionate Powdery long lasting, jasmin.
Cis-Jasmon Diffusive, fruity jasmin.
Cis-2-Pentenol Powerful, jasmin, like.
CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.

Delphone Powerful, diffusive and complex floral aromatic and fruity, jasmin.
Di Hydro Iso Jasmone Lactonic, floral, jasmine.
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Fruity odor floral jasmin.
Di Hydro Jasmone Fruity sweet floral woody with a powdery nuance.
Di Jasmone A full, deep jasmin type odor, intensely floral.
D M B C - Acetate Fresh powerful fruity floral odor of jasmin, lily.

2-Heptyl Cyclopentanone Floral, herbal, jasmin-like.


2-n-Hexyl Cyclopentanone Green floral, jasmin-like.

Iso Jasmone Isomeric floral jasmin mixture.


Iso Jasmone Pure Powerful, latonic, celery - jasmin.

Jasmacylene Low cost, fresh diffusive green, woody anise, herby, - jasmin.
Jasmal Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor.
Jasmaprunate Fruity like apple jasmin dry slightly green like wild grapes.
Jasmatone Diffusive, warm spicy celery, with a hint of frutiness, - jasmin.
Jasmelia A pungent jasmin, jasmone odor with a hint of parsley.
Jasmin # 187 A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex.
Jasmin AB13 Economical but tenacious base with a fruity top note.
Jasmin AB 410 Long lasting, absolute note of floral jasmin.
Jasmin Abs. Floral jasmin not overly sweet like cananga oil.
Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.

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Glen O. Brechbill 132

Jasmin Abs. Italian Max. The purest heart of the floral jasmin.
Jasmin Abs. Oliffac An economical approach of the precious jasmin flower.
Jasmin Chassis Abs. Resembles orange flower absolute, warm sweet and heavy.
Jasmin Concrete With a varying source odor is waxy, fatty sweet jasmin like.
Jasmin Egyptian An extremely fine floral jasmin fragrance.
Jasmin Egyptian C2612 Has fine jasmin top note quite diffusive.
Jasmin Etoile Givco 144 Spicy warm floral.
Jasmin Lactone Powerful cream, jasmine, peach coconut note.
Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt A sweet strong jasmin green floral petal like odor.
Jasmin 74D A reconstitution of jasmin absolute.
Jasmine The sweetest and most celebrated flower of North Africa.
Jasmolactone Sweet fruity floral jasmin.
Jasmolactone CNC Oily, fruity floral petal like suggestive of many floral absolutes.
Jasmo Lactone XC Jasmin absolute odor with a buttery note.
Jasmoneige Natural jasmin.
Jasmonol Floral waxy odor works well in tuberose, honeysuckle and jasmin.
Jasmonyl Intensely sweet floral jasmin.
Jasmonyl Acetate Jasmin somewhat pear like odor.
Jasmophyll Sweet floral fruity like jasmin slight green herbal woody nuance.
Jasmorange Fruity balsamic, green floral, aldehydic.
Jasmopyrane Rich, waxy, sweet floral jasmin complex.
Jasmopyrane Forte More tenacious floral jasmin, and has a slight mushroomy note.
Jessemal Herbaceous floral jasmin.

Lactone CIS Jasmone # 114 Soft floral odor of jasmin.


Lactone of CIS Jasmone # 411 A floral waxy, jasmine absolute odor. Used in jasmine fragrances.

Methyl Jasmonate The floral heart of jasmin, petal soft and tenacious, elegant.
Methyl Jasmonate Extra More powerful and floral than standard material extremely diffusive.

Zeppin Diffusive, sweet, noble jasmin.

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133 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Fresh

FLORAL FRESH

A flower that is found in nature can be fresh, yet sweet and green. This is part of the classification of fine
fragrances that is open to interpretation. Some suggest that this type of fragrance can be based on hyacinth, lily
of the valley and orange blossom with a fresh fruity note of Bergamot and other citrus materials. Jasmine based
on Benzyl Acetate or Hedione can also be part of the theme.

Top Bergamot 8 % - Fruity Floral Fruity

Orange 4 %, Peach 1 %, Jasmin .5 %

Middle Rose 22 % Warm

Jasmin 10 %, Violet 5 %, Muguet 4 % Floral


Green Ivy Givco 2 %
Geranium 1 % Lilac 4 %, Carnation 4 %

Base Amber .5 %

Musk .5 %, Sandal 1 % Amber

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 134

Floral Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar 6 Methyl Anthranilate


11 Musk Ambrette Substitute 8 Lime Oil C.P.
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Amyris Oil 3 Santalol
23 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Ionone - alpha
5 Musk Dione 17 Peach Aldehyde
9 Galbanum Oil A 8 Aurantiol
10 Salicylate D’Amyle 12 Lemon USA - CA
6 Vanillin .1 Blackcurrant Absolute
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 23 Linalyl Acetate
4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Petilyn
3 Pelargene 1 Meranol
96 Benzyl Acetate 12 Lyrame
5 Anisque Aldehyde .3 Jasilyn
3 Methyl Benzoate .1 Leaf Alcohol
11 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Black Tea Tincture
4 Methyl Cedyl Ketone 4 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
23 Citronellol 850 3 Ethyl Geranate
31 Eugenol 1 Jacinthe Augaflor 11
3 Ethyl Vanisal 5 Givescone
4 Styrax Resinoide 3 Veraflor
127 Geraniol 9 Citron Corps
9 Iridales
77 Lilac Base
276 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol
19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Ionone
.1 Musk abs. C’Less
1 Alpha Damascone
41 Lyral
.3 3 - Octyl Acetate
1 Cassis
1 Orinox
17 Linallol (l) ( natural )
3 Syringa

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135 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Ethylene Brassylate .1 Alcohol C - 10


2 Cedryl Acetate 3 DMBC - Acetate
1 Ambrox D’L Coeur .1 Rose Oxide R
3 Benzophenone 42 Orange Oil of Florida
24 Benzylsalicylate 13 Aldehyde C - 14
21 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 35 Linalool 99 %
1 Heliomet .1 Rose Absolute Decolorized
3 Cashmeran 2 Methyl Diantilis
6 Resinoide Galbeno 1 Rose Acetate
11 Sandalwood Extender 1 Folia SA
13 Benteine 9 Orange Peel ( sweet )
46 Ionone For Soap Base 47 Linalyl Acetate
25 Citronellol 4 Persicol SA
1 Irotyl 3 Tangerinr Oil Florida
3 Sandasweet 3 Meranol
2 Benzoin Resinoid .2 Aldehyde 13 - 13
43 Rose For Soap Base 5 Floreal
28 Eugenol .1 Leaf Alcohol
6 Di Metil Octanol 2 Iso - Eugenol
8 Hysimal 3 Fraisberry
7 Osyrol 6 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
42 Lilac Base 11 Hedione
105 Geraniol .2 Iris Beurre Essence
11 Methyl Ionone Alpha
287 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 y - Irone 1,000
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
9 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
7 Methyl Iso Eugenol
4 Floramat
4 Santall
9 Geranyl Acetate Ex. Palmarosa
68 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Violettyne MIP

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Glen O. Brechbill 136

Floral Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

12 Santalex T Neat 6 Lavender Oil


3 Benzophenone 3 Fraise 3333 SA
4 Amber Base 41 Orange Oil Sweet - US
.1 Civet Powder # 1B 1 Citronellyl Acetate
24 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 48 Linalyl Acetate Synthetic
9 Galaxolide 50 7 Peach Aldehyde
5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Melfloral
27 Benzyl Salicylate 2 Geranyl Acetate
3 Iridales 5 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
.1 Alpha Damascone 3 Grapefruit Cypress White
1 Amberwood .1 Alcohol C - 10
6 Irone V 1 Styrallyl Acetate
19 Citronellol Coeur 9 Orange Florida Midseason
73 MDJ .1 Aldehyde 13 - 13
7 Green Ivy Givco 168 .1 Rose Oxide R
38 Iso Eugenol Replacement 4 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
.1 Alcohol C - 8 1 Vanilla Beans
8 Liral .3 Hydroxycitronellal DMA
34 Jasmin Province Base 1 Sandalwood, India
37 Terpineol PG 4 Bergamot Oil Sicily
138 Geraniol 98 % 7 alpha - Ionone
3 Lioral 3 Santaliff
1 Iso Jasmone 1 Levanalis
54 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Javanil
290 Di Propileno Glico 1,000
1 Top Muguet
.1 Angel Essence
4 Iso Eugenol
2 Methyl Diantilis
34 Etil Linalol
1 Vanilla Tincture 20 %
1 Citronellyl Acetate
4 Iso Jasmone B 11
2 Para Cresyl redistilled
.1 Undecavertol

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137 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRESH

Top Grape 1 %

Bergamot 4 % - Dry, Lemon 1 %, Lime - .5 % Floral

Peach 1 %

Middle Jasmin 10 %

Amyl Slaicylate 1 % Violet 3.5 %, Muguet 7 %, Hawthorn 2 % Fresh Floral


Methyl Benzoate 1 %
Carnation 4 %, Lilac 9 %, Rose 20 %

Base Musk 1 %

Galbanum .5 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Styrax .5 % Sweet

Vanilla 1 %
Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 138

Floral Fresh # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Substitute 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF


2 Raspberry Ketone 3 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Augaflor 3 4 Methyl Pamplemousse
.2 Veltol 9 Triplal
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Ghost Lily
2 Safraleine .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
119 Galaxolide 50 DEP 5 C - 16
28 Salicylate De Benzyle 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure
14 Osyrol .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
3 Ethyl Butyrate 22 Linalool
14 Alicate 5 Strawberry Pure
30 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 10 Lemon Oil California
1 Ambrofix .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
9 Hyacinth PP 1 Muguet Aldehyde
7 Citroflex # 2 4 Lime - Gambia
34 Benzyl Acetate 1 Tuberose Oliffac
2 Butyl Acetate 47 Verdox
1 Iso - Eugenol .1 Folione
9 Hexyl Acetate 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
5 Methyl Benzoate .1 Leaf Orient
11 a - Ionone Extra 2 Iridales
8 Citronellol .1 Rose Turque Essence
73 Muguet Base 1 Honeysuckle
9 Methyl Ionone Gamma
293 Di Propileno Glico
1 Ultrazeur 1,000
35 Geraniol Coeur
4 Florhydral
39 Linalyl Acetate
3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
13 DMBC - Acetate
36 Dihydromyrcenol
9 Hexyl Salicylate
4 Santalex T
3 Rhodiascent Extra Pure

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139 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Fresh # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Vanilina 24 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol


3 Kephalis 2 Nutmeg East Indian
19 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Floral
27 Osyrol .1 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Galbanum Colorized 6 Methyl Anthranlate
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Berryflor
9 Musk Ambrette Substitute .1 Nonadienal
8 Styrax Purified .1 Rose Iran Double Distilled Oil
11 Amyl Salicylate 6 Dimetol
14 Galaxolide 50 2 Jasmin Egyptian
3 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Geranium Oil Chinese
15 Ionone Alpha Refined 27 Linalyl Acetate Synthetic
6 Hyacinth PP .3 Santalyl Acetate
8 Metil Benzoato 13 Lemon Oil - Washed
74 Acetate de Benzila 8 Dihydromyrcenol
.1 Rosalva 4 Leguminal
5 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol .1 Celery Essence
23 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Lime, Steam Distilled
9 Anisic Aldehyde 8 Aurantiol pure
1 Vanilla Resinoid 1 Iris Beurre Oil
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Jasmylone 99
73 Lilac Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Javanol
8 Lyral
291 Di Propileno Glico 1,000
21 Hedione
6 Citronellol 750
8 Syringa
13 Rose For Soap Base
21 Linalol
11 Lemon Oil Italian C.P.
24 Eugenol Pure
117 Geraniol
9 Persicol SA
3 Eugenol Acetate
1 Rhodiaflor SB

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Glen O. Brechbill 140

Floral Fresh # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Vanilla Beans - Madagascar 8 Lime Oil C.P.


11 Galaxolide Artessence 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Verdantiol
6 Amyris Haiti 9 Ionone - alpha
23 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % - China 17 Peach Aldehyde
5 Musk Dione 8 Aurantiol
9 Galbanum Oil A 12 Lemon USA - CA
10 Salicylate D’Amyle .1 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan
6 Vanillin 23 Linalyl Acetate
.1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Petilyn
4 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Meranol
3 Pelargene 12 Lyral
96 Benzyl Acetate FCC .3 Sparkling Champagne
5 Anisque Aldehyde .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Methyl Benzoate 1 Black Tea Tincture
11 Ionone Alpha Refined 4 Soft Skin Accord - IFF
4 Methyl Cedyl Ketone 3 Ethyl Geranate
23 Citronellol 1 Jacinthe Augaflor 11
31 Eugenol 5 Florymoss
3 Ethyl Vanisal 3 Veraflor
4 Styrax Resinoide 9 Citron Corps
127 Geraniol
9 Ionone Alpha
77 Lilac Base 1,000
276 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol
19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Ionone
.1 Musk Abs. C’Less
1 Alpha Damascone
41 Lyral
.3 3 - Octyl Acetate
1 Cassis
1 Orinox
17 Linallol (l) ( natural )
3 Syringa
6 Methyl Anthranilate

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141 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Sweet

FLORAL SWEET

A floral sweet fragrance is often described as a floriental. Fragrances in this family can include gardenia,
jas mine, freesia, and orange flower. A fine sweet fragrance can be based on Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl
Cinnamic Aldehyde, Vetiver including exotic spices and their essences.

Top Jasmin 1.5 %

Hexyl Salicylate 4 % Lime 4 %, Bergamot 6 %, Apple 5 %, Raspberry .5 % Fruity Sweet


Hexyl Acetate 1 %
Triplal .5 % Strawberry .5 %, Pineapple 1 %, Lemon 1 %

Middle Muguet 8 %

Fructone 1 % Rose 4 %, Jasmin 1.5 %, Violet 3 % Floral


Butyl Acetate .75 %
Ethyl Butyrate .25 % Hyacinth 1 %, Lily 1 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 %
Amber - Trace
Base
Musk 12 %, Tonka 1.5 %, Civet - Trace Warm

Sandalwood 1 %, Veltol - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 142

Floral Sweet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amberwood 3 Helional
2 Oxanone 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
.1 Civet Powder # 1B 3 Orange Flower Base
.2 Raspberry Ketone 4 Pamplemousse
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Triplal
2 Safraleine 1 Lyral
129 Galaxolide 50 .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Salicylate De Benzyle 5 Aldehyde C - 16
4 Osyrol 3 Geranyl Acetate
3 Ethyl Butyrate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
14 Alicate 22 Linalool - Kurary
35 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Strawberry Pure
1 Ambrofix 13 Lemon Oil California
4 Styrax Coeur .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Citroflex 1 Muguet Aldehyde
34 Benzyl Acetate 4 Lime - Gambia
2 Butyl Acetate 1 Methyl Tuberate Pure
1 Iso, Eugenol 44 Verdox
9 Hexyl Acetate .1 Folione
5 Methyl Benzoate 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme .1 Leaf Orient
8 Citronellol 750 2 Iridales
73 Muguet Base .1 Rose Turque Essence
9 Methyl Ionone 1 Honeysuckle
293 Di Propileno Glico
1 Ultrazeur
35 Geraniol 1,000
4 Florhydral
39 Linalyl Acetate
3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
13 DMBC - Acetate
36 Di Hydro Myrcenol
9 Hexyl Salicylate
4 Sandela

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143 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Sweet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Amber Substitute 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF


2 Oxanone 3 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Augaflor 6 4 Methyl Pamplemousse
.2 Veltol 9 Triplal
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Lilie
2 Pepperwood .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
119 Galaxolide 50 DEP 5 Aldehyde C - 16
28 Salicylate De Benzyle 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure
14 Osyrol .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
3 Ethyl Butyrate 19 Linalol S 97
14 Alicate 5 Strawberry
30 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 12 Lemon Oil of Florida
1 Ambrofix .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
9 Hyacinth PP 1 Muguet Aldehyde
7 Frutone 2 Lime Oil # 410
34 Benzyl Acetate 1 Tuberose Oliffac
2 Butyl Acetate 47 Verdox
1 Iso Eugenol Replacement .1 Orange Flower Abs.
9 Hexyle Acetate 14 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
5 Methyl Benzoate .1 Leaf Orient
11 a - Ionone Extra 2 Iridales
8 Citronellol .1 Rose Turque Essence
73 Lilial 1 Kir Base # 9741
9 Methyl Ionone
293 Di Propileno Glico
1 Ultrazeur 1,000
35 Geraniol 60
4 Florhydral
39 Linalyl Acetate
3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
13 DMBC - Acetate
36 Di Hydro Myrcenol
9 Hexyl Salicylate
4 Sandalore
3 Coumarin pure

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Glen O. Brechbill 144

Floral Sweet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

2 Amber Substitute 3 Helional


2 Oxanone 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
.1 Civet Augaflor 3 3 Orange Flower Base
.2 Veltol 4 Methyl Pamplemousse
36 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Triplal
2 Safraleine 1 Ghost Lily
124 Galaxolide 50 Dpg .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Salicylate De Benzyle 5 Aldehyde C - 16
14 Osyrol 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure
3 Ethyl Butyrate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
14 Alicate 22 Linalool - Kurary
25 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Strawberry Pure
1 Ambrofix 10 Lemon Oil California
9 Hyacinth PP .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Frutone 1 Muguet Aldehyde
37 MDJ 4 Lime - Gambia
2 Butyl Acetate 1 Tuberose Oliffac
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol 47 Verdox
6 Hexyl Acetate .1 Nonadienal
5 Methyl Benzoate 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
11 a - Ionone Extra .1 Leaf Orient
12 Citronellol 2 Iritone V
73 Muguet Base .1 Rose Turque Essence
3 Methyl Ionone 1 Honeysuckle
293 Di Propileno Glico
1 Ultrazeur
41 Geraniol 60 1,000
4 Florhydral
35 Linalyl Acetate
3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
13 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
36 Di Hydro Myrcenol
9 Hexyl Salicylate
4 Santalex T

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145 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL SWEET

Top Bergamot 5 %

Orange Flower 1 %, Green Notes .5 % Fruity Green

Ylang Ylang 1 %, Jasmin 1 %, Vetiver

Middle Jasmin 5 %

Violet 8 %, Rose 8 %, Carnation 2 % Floral


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %
Amyl Salicylate 3 % Muguet 5 %, Vetiver 3 %

Base Musk 3 %

Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Styrax 1 % Light Musk

Moss - Trace, Patchouli 2 %, Opoponax .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 3 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 146

Floral Sweet # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Styrax Mix - Oil .1 Amberwood


24 Patchouli Oil Substitute 10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
29 Benzyl Alcohol FR .1 2, 6 Nonad 1 al Diethyl Acetal
11 Alicate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
6 Opoponax Base 26 Linalol S 97
48 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Cassia Chinese
31 Galaxolide Gx 50 % DPG 2 Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal
1 Mousse De Chenne 11 Orange Flower Base
24 Benzyle Salicylate 3 Vetiverol Extra
3 Piperonyl Acetate 1 Rose Oil Type NF 17
5 Cedrenyl Acetate 7 Bourgenal
53 Super Cepionate 31 Linalyl Acetate
9 Hidroxicitronelal 4 Aurantesein
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Jasmophyll
1 Rosalva 3 Bergamot Oils
4 Methyl Phenyl Acetate .1 Neroli Oliffac
7 Traseolide 2 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Eugenol 1 Neryl Acetate
29 Amyl Salicylate 4 Rosilial Plus
27 Vetiver Extender .1 Caraway Seed Essence
48 Laurine - Givaudan 3 Santalex T - Neat
8 Citronellol 6 Iridales
5 Super Cepionate
7 Lavender Oil 40/42
64 Geraniol 60 1,000
15 Carnation Base
248 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
38 Hydroxycitronellol
1 Iso, Eugenol
9 Lyral
42 Methyl Ionone Gamma
.1 Aldehyde C - 24 Pear
36 Methyl Ionone Gamma
8 Hexyl Salicylate
.1 Orange Flower Abs.
9 Meijiff

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147 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Sweet # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Sandec Givco 9 Orange Flower Base


28 Benzyl Alcohol FR .1 Alcohol C - 9
8 Di Hydro Coumarex 7 Vetiver Oil Haiti
11 Styrax Clarified .1 Ionone
47 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Styrallyl Acetate
29 Ethylene Brassylate 48 Muguet Base
3 Balsam Peru Oliffac 3 Hydratropic Aldehyde
21 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Vertifloreol
18 Patchouly Light 2 Tuberose Augaflor 25
1 Atralone .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
6 Opoponax Resinoid Washed 2 Genievre Baies Oil
33 Vetivert Extender 1 Scennal
1 Vanisal 3 Caraway Oil
6 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate .1 Rose Essence 193 D
9 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Veraflor
3 Sandalore 2 Jamsonyl Acetate
15 Eugenol 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
38 MDJ 6 Myraldyl Acetate
6 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 27 Linalyl Acetate
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Santal Blanc
17 Rose For Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Vanilla Bean Tincture 1 Methyl Diantilis
5 Irone V 2 Neryl Acetate
8 Citronellol 3 Florantone T
15 Hedione 1 Cassia Oil - Fractions
6 Methyl Iso Eugenol
8 Lilial
325 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
51 Geraniol 60
3 Iridales
33 Iraldeine Standard Substitute
48 Hydroxycitronellal Extender
25 Salicylate D’Amyle
3 Bois Amberene Forte
14 Linalool Synthetic

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Glen O. Brechbill 148

Floral Sweet # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Musk Ketone 3 DMBC - Acetate


7 Patchone 5 Orange Flower Base
16 Traseolide 700 Base 4 Eugenol Ex Clove
6 Opoponax Resinoid Washed 6 Terpineol 318
28 Benzyl Alcohol .1 Ylang Ylang Oil # 3
.1 Mousse De Metre 23 Iso Eugenol Replacement
49 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Styrallyl Alcohol
11 Styrax Resinoid .2 Lily Aldehyde
28 Amyl Salicylate .1 Vanilla Resinoide - Jamaica
10 Sandalwood Substitute 35 Linalyl Acetate
24 Musk 50 DEP 3 Sweet Pea
19 Iso E Super 1 Laurinal
77 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
8 a - Ionone 5 Vetiverol Extra
9 Amil Cinamico Aldeido 6 Florantone T
38 Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB 2040 7 Ionone Alpha Refined
3 Musk R - 1 3 Muguet Alcohol
.1 Rose Oxide L .4 Iso Rose
27 Vetivert Extender 4 Massada
1 Helioforte 7 Orangeflor Deco
6 Santalol 1 Aniba Roseodora
13 Meijiff 3 Persicol SA
1 Iris Beurre Oil
2 Heliotropin
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
335 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
14 Hydroxycitronellol
23 Rose for Soap Base
1 Florosia
4 Citronellol
1 Sandalo Olifac
66 Geraniol Extra
1 Tonkarinol
23 Linalool Coeur
.1 Methyl Tuberate

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149 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floral Aldehydic

FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Floral aldehydic compounds were discovered in the 19th century. Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive
effect, and are characterized by a rich opulent top note. In small parts certain aldehydes are used as a top note
effect simulating a variety of floral scents that are found in nature. Muguet or Lily of the Valley based on
Hydroxycitronellal is a popular example. Utilizing aldehydes provide modern accords with a richness and
depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by
Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combina-
tion of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia.

Top Bergamot 6 % - Dry

Orange Blossom 1 %, Ylang Ylang .5 %, Wardia 2 % Floral Aldehydic

Cassis 1 %

Middle Muguet 13 %

Jasmin 6 %, Ylang 2 %, Rose 4 % - Warm Floral


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 %
Violet 9 %, Carnation 3 %, Nutmeg .5 %

Base Musk 6 %

Sandalwood 1 %, Tonka 5 %, Vanilla 1.5 % Sweet Spicy

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 150

Floral Aldehydic # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Base # 9 6 Hydroxycitronellal A


43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
29 Musk Ambrette Substitute .1 Rose Bulgare Oil
9 Benzyl Benzoate 1 Helional
48 Cou Marin 1 Gaultheria Southern FCC
9 Vanisal .1 Alcool C - 9
24 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Orange C.P. & Sweet
17 Amyl Cinamic Aldehyde 5 Iso - Eugenol
9 Sandela 3 Anisque Alcool
62 Benzyle Acetate .1 Jasmine Abs. - India
109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Galbanodor
1 Damascenia 2 Citroflor
7 Vanillin, ethyl 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
3 Irisone Pure 5 Soft Skin Accord - IFF
4 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Methyl Jasmonate pure
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic .1 Leaf Alcohol
27 Eugenol 1 Aldehyde Cortex 50
4 Citronellol 4 Floramat
23 Muguet Base 2 Jasilyn
4 Javanol 3 Alpha Ionone 60
1 Rosone 6 Kephalis
75 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 1 Bourgeons
1 Mallow 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF
20 Geraniol .1 Mallow
.1 Vanilla Abs. C’Less 1 Citronica
3 Gardenia Acetal
314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
17 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
1 Iso Jasmone
4 alpha - Irone
33 Galaxolide Gx 50 % DEP
11 Orange Flower Base
.1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11
1 Vanillyl Alcohol
9 Wardia - Firmenich

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151 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Aldehydic # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Sandalwood Substitute 4 Apritone


44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Orange Flower Base
.1 Civet Base # 1 19 Geranyl Acetate
9 Iso E Super 8 Bergamot Oil Na
24 Salicylate De Benzyle .1 Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Tallish Patro Resinoide 4 Prunella
11 Benzyle Benzoate .1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11
3 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Cassis Fragrance
48 Coumane 4 Nutmeg Oil Indonesia
63 Benzyl Acetate Coeur .1 Ylang Oil I Morocco
10 Laurine Extra 2 Orangeflor Deco
.1 Oakmoss Givco 214 5 Tangerine Oil C.P. Florida
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Kir Base # 9741
16 Sandalmysore Core 4 Florantone T
117 Muguet Base 1 Peomosa
9 Methyl Ionone Alpha 2 Vanilla Inco 3
4 Citronellol 1 Petilyn
5 alpha - Ionone .1 Rose Templar
9 Meijiff .3 Leaf Alcohol
8 Vanillin 8 Geranyl Acetate Super FCC
43 Geraniol 970 4 Santalol
5 Lilivert .1 Iso Eugenol
1 Musk Emeressence
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
26 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000
307 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
72 Ionone Intermediate Base
7 Vanillin, Ethyl
8 Lavender 40/42 %
3 Sweet Pea
1 Cyclogalbaniff
7 Vetiveryl Acetate
4 Phixia
1 Croton Fruit Oil
3 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

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Glen O. Brechbill 152

Floral Aldehydic # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

38 Galaxolide 50 3 p - Cresyl Acetate


1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 1 Sandalore
.1 Civet Augaflor 6 4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
24 Salicylate De Benzyl .1 Neroli Morocco
7 Vanillina 1 Verdantol
43 Coumarin Substitute 3 Nutmeg Oil - Indonesia
6 Khoavone 2 Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Vanilys
9 Serenolide 25 Linalol
6 Hydrofix L .3 Ylang # 1
11 Benzyl Benzoate 17 Wardia
4 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Alcohol C - 98
58 Benzyl Acetate 1 Ylang Ylang Substitute
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Orange Oil of California
104 Muguet Base 3 Sandalwood Oil Rectified India
10 Ionone For Soap .1 Orange Flor Deco
1 Musk Tibetine 1 Tuberose Oliffac
4 Iris Beurre Oil 1 Cassis Fragrance
.1 Rose Crystals 3 Massada
26 Eugenol 98 % natural 1 Carnaline
9 Jasmin Province Base 9 alpha - Ionone
5 Citronellol Coeur 4 Sandenol 208
7 Leeral 1 Franboise 2222
.1 Musk Absolute 1 Persicol
65 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
11 Rose Substitute
316 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Citronellol Muguet 92 %
3 Vanilla Tincture 20 %
.1 Neroline
1 Florisia
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
10 Orange Flower Base
28 Geraniol
17 Linalyl Acetate Special

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153 Aranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Top Bergamot 6 %

Pear 1 %, Rose 2 %, Cassis .5 %, Strawberry - Trace Floral Aldehydic

Orange Flower 1 %

Middle Lily of the Valley 11 %

Rose 4 %, Ylang Ylang 1.5 %, Jasmin 5 % Floral

Nutmeg .5 %, Violet 10 %, Carnation 3 %

Base Sandalwood 2 %

Musk 5 %, Tonka 5 %, Vanilla 1.5 % Sweet Spicy

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 154

Floral Aldehydic # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Base # 1 6 Hydroxycitronellal 55


43 Di Ethyl Phthalate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
29 Musk Ambrette Substitute .1 Rose Bulgare Oil
9 Benzyl Benzoate 1 Alicate
48 Coumarin 1 Gaultheria Southern FCC
9 Vanillin .1 Alcool C - 10
24 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 3 Orange C.P. & Sweet
17 Amyl Cinamic Aldehyde 5 Iso - Eugenol
9 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 3 Anisque Alcool
62 Benzyl Acetate .1 Jasmine Abs. - India
109 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Galbanodor
1 Damascenia 2 Citroflor
7 Vanillin, ethyl 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
3 Irisone Pure 5 Iso Amyl Gernate
4 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Methyl Jasmonate
22 Ylang Ylang Synthetic .1 Leaf Alcohol
27 Eugenol 1 Aldehyde Cortex 50
4 Citronellol 4 Floramat
23 Muguet Base 2 Jasilyn
4 Sandela 3 Alpha Ionone 60
1 Rose Crystals 6 Kephalis
75 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 1 Bourgeons
1 Mallow 3 Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF
20 Geraniol 98 % .1 Biflor
.1 Vanilla Bean Clair 1 Citronica
3 Gardenia Acetal
314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
17 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
1 Jasmone Iso
4 alpha - Irone
33 Galaxolide Gx 50 % DEP
11 Orange Flower Base
.1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11
1 Vanillyl Alcohol
9 Wardia

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155 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Aldehydic # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

62 Ethylene Brassylate 34 Linalol S 97


47 Coumarin Substitute 1 Carnaline
9 Benzyle Salicylate .1 Black Tea Extract
.1 Rosalva 15 Orange Blossom Base
11 Sandalwood Oil Australian .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Lavender Population
8 Vanillin 1 Geraniol - ex Plmarosa Oil
1 Beta Damascone 6 Bourgenal
33 Benzyl Acetate 20 Linalyl Acetate
11 Rose For Soap Base .6 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Heliotropine 1 Caraway Oil
111 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Ionone 100 %
3 Aspic Espagne .1 Celery Essence
12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Rose Oil Templar
1 Dupical 6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
3 Eugenol 8 Neroli Artessence
77 Iraldiene Standard Substitute 3 Bergamal
9 Lilial .1 Undecatriene
4 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Leaf Alcohol
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Fruitline AB876
32 Geraniol 3 Bourgenal
20 MDJ 1 Mallow
.1 Syringa
4 Citronellol Pure
20 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
13 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
22 Eugenol / Clove
1 Bonorax
.2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Nutmeg Oil - India
.1 Nonadienal
1 Lime Oil Roses Type

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Glen O. Brechbill 156

Floral Aldehydic # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

42 Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 Muguet Aldehyde 50


1 Benzophenone 2 Florantone T
7 Cashmeran .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
11 Benzyl Salicylate 6 Cassis Fragrance
46 Coumane 4 Iso Jasmone B - 11
.1 Civet # 3 S - 788 3 Orangeflor
3 Piperonyl Acetate 5 Fir Needle Silver
8 Vanillin 2 Neroli Oliffac
1 Anisyl Alcohol 17 Linalyl Acetate
12 Sandec Givco 220 7 Nerol
128 Muguet Base 5 Orange Flower Base
63 Benzyle Acetate .1 Violet Leaf
.1 Rosa Damascena 4 Wardia - Firmenich
16 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Alpha Iso Methyl Ionol Acetate
9 Phenylethylalcohol 1 Bergamot, C. P. Guinea
85 Ionone Intermediate Base 2 Zingerone
22 Eugenol .1 Iridales
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 3 Vetiveryl Acetate Java
6 Citronellol 3 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
3 Ionone Alpha .1 Leaf Acetal
9 Ylang Ylang Substitute 1 Cyclorose
11 Hedione 1 Feuillage Vert Base
21 Geraniol 98 3 Neryl Acetate
8 Lyral
1 Orris Oil
309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
.1 Carrot Weed Oil
4 Tuberose Substitute
.1 Lichen
3 Safraleine
55 Galaxolide 50 Gx in DEP
1 Tuberose Oliffac
.1 Alcool C - 8
1 Undecatriene
29 Linalool
4 Nutmeg Oil India

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157 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL ALDEHYDIC

Top Orange Blossom 1 %

Ylang Ylang .5 %, Wardia 2 %, Cassis .5 % Floral Aldehydic

Bergamot 6 % - Dry

Middle Muguet 11 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Rose 3 %, Ylang Ylang 2 %, Jasmin 5 % Floral

Nutmeg .5 %, Violet 10 %, Carnation 3 %

Base Sandalwood 2 %

Musk 5 %, Tonka 5 %, Vanilla 1.5 %

Civet - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 158

Floral Aldehydic # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

57 Traseolide 700 Base 8 Wardia - Firmenich


5 Picca Mariana .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Vanisal 6 Terpineol ( Perfumery Grade )
.1 Civettone 1 Trimentina
11 Sandalwood Substitute 3 Orafleur
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Benzyle Salicylate 34 Linalool
5 Tonka Feve Resinoide 21 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
49 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Tuberose Oliffac
5 Musk Emeressence 2 Bourgeons De Cassis
44 Acetate De Benzyle 1 Orange Bitter
.1 Vanilla Tincture .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
11 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Lysmeral
4 Sandalwood Oil .1 Nonadienal
6 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Ylang Heart No. 3
21 Eugenol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
76 Muguet Base 18 Linalyl Acetate
17 Ionone Alpha 1 Florymoss
6 Citronellol 3 Orangeflor Deco
9 Iso Jasmone .6 Tangerine Oil CP Florida
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 3 Nerol Petals
23 Rose For Soap Base 1 Freesia
1 Cassia Oliffac
319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Pepperwood 1,000
17 Geraniol
8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
12 Hydroxycitronellol
9 Laurine Extra
83 Ionone Intermediate Base
5 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
1 Perryfix - CA
9 Orange Blossom Base
4 Nutmeg Indonesia

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159 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral Aldehydic # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Vanillin .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic


11 Musk Ambrette Substitute 5 Bergamot Africa
7 Kephalis 4 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Lyral
15 Osyrol .1 Folione
.1 Alpha Damascone .1 Ligustral
12 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 1 Geranium Oil African
47 Rhodiascent Extra pure .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
51 Benzyl Acetate 6 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Cashmeran 3 Nutmeg Oil East Indian
1 Florymoss 41 Linalol
6 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Violetleaves
5 Sandol - SA 1 Applitone
18 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Alcohol C - 08
33 Carnation Base .1 Rose Bourbon Abs.
1 Balsam Peru Oliffac 1 Galbanodor CG
4 Di Hydro Coumarex 10 Orange Blossom Base
53 Galaxolide Gx in 50 % DEP .1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
1 Hydroxy Extra 23 Linalyl Acetate
12 Rose Substitute .4 Rose Summer Damask
5 Anisic Aldehyde 3 Cassis Fragrance
6 Citronellol 5 Dupical
14 Hedione 1 Lavender 50/52 %
103 Ionone Intermediate Base 4 Nerol
.1 Rosalva 1 Vamba
105 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute .1 Geraniol 600
308 Di Propileno Glico 1 Massada
14 Geraniol 80
1 Iso - Eugenol
1 Cedraclaire 1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill 160

Floral Aldehydic # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

62 Galaxolide 50 34 Linalol S 97
47 Coumarin Pure 1 Methyl Diantilis
9 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Black Tea Extract
.1 Polarose 15 Orange Blossom Base
11 Sandalwood Oil East Indian .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Lavender Oil - France
8 Vanillin 1 Geraniol - ex Plmarosa Oil
1 Delta Damascone 6 Cassis Fragrance
33 Benzyl Acetate 20 Linalyl Acetate
11 Rose For Soap Base .6 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 1 Caraway Oil
111 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Ionone 100 %
3 Aspic Espagne .1 Celery Essence
12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Rose Oil Templar
1 Dupical 6 Zeppin
3 Eugenol / Clove 8 Neroli Artessence
77 Iraldiene Standard Substitute 3 Bergamal
9 Lilial .1 Undecatriene
4 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Leaf Alcohol
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Fruitline AB876
32 Geraniol 3 Bourgenal
20 Benzyl Acetate 1 Mallow
.1 The
4 Citronellol
20 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
13 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
22 Eugenol / Clove
1 Petilyn
.2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Nutmeg Oil - India
.1 Nonadienal
1 Kaffir Lime

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161 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Chypre Floral

CHYPRE FLORAL

Keeping this concept true to form the rose is used as a dominate theme. In my book titled, A Reference
Book On Fragrances I have a sub division that lists over 200 rose materials. Also used is a Gardenia accord
that can be artificially recreated using a Jasmin rose theme with Styrallyl Acetate as a predominate green note.

Top Bergamot 4 % - Fruity

Triplal .5 % Green Notes - Trace, Jasmin Citrus

Undecavertol - Trace, Lavender .5 %, Apple 1 %

Middle Violet 7 %

Peonile 1 % Muguet 6 %, Jasmin 7 %, Hawthorn 2.5 % Floral


Iso E Super 3 %
HCA4% Argumex 2 %, Gardenia 1 %, Rose 6 % - Sweet

Base Sandalwood .5 %

Musk 3 %, Galbanum 1 %, Moss - Trace Warm

Patchouli - Trace, Okumal - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 34 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 162

Chypre Floral # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Sandela 17 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute


27 Iso & Super 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Oakmoss Givco 214 1 Geranyl Acetate
22 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Phenylethylalcohol
33 Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP 6 Triplal
1 Mousse De Chenne 14 Linalool Special 99 %
9 Galbanum Colourless A 1 Hydroxyciol
.1 Civet Powder # 1A .1 Rose - Saudi Arabia
13 Alicate 9 Verdox
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Methyl Jasmonate
7 Gardenia Fleuriff 1 Styrallyl Acetate
14 Peonile 3 Ionone Alpha
42 Hedione 1 Meranol
9 Gardenia Base .1 Undecavertol
3 Styrax Extra .3 Bois De Cedre Texas
.1 Rose Crystals 4 Iso Amyl Geranate
24 Aubepine 23 Linalyl Acetate
38 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 9 Lavender Tasmanian
26 Benzyl Acetate .1 Methyl Tuberate
5 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol 3 Apple Oliffac
15 Citronellol 1 Tangerinol
1 Florymoss .1 Leaf Alcohol
18 Jasmin Province Base 1 Cyclogalbonate
1 Anisyl Acetone 1 Iso - Eugenol
345 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
54 Liral
71 Geraniol 1,000
1 Sage Clary
55 Ionone Intermediate Base
4 Mayol
9 Amyl Salicylate
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Undecylenic
3 Verdantiol
.1 Rose Otto Bulgaria

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163 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Floral # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Okumal .1 Rose Oil Otto Bulgaria


32 Iso E Super 114 Linalol ( Perfumery Grade )
3 Sandalore 5 DMBC - Acetate
.1 Evernyl .1 Undecavertol
4 Patchouli Oil F 867 .1 Jasmine India Absolute
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Geraniol 600
9 Galbanum Resinoide 11 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
11 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Sur Fleurs d’oranger Oil
14 Laurine 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50
1 Vanilla Bean Clair 27 Linalyl Acetate
11 Peonile .1 Folione
75 Super Cepionate 3 Apple Oliffac
5 Osyrol 5 Florhydral
2 Javanol .1 Leaf Alcohol
9 Lilial 3 Neroli Bigarad
68 Ionone For Soap Base 1 Styrallyl Acetate
4 Methyl Para Cresole 8 Tangerine, Florida
8 Citronellol 750 3 Nerol
11 Iso Amyl Geranate 5 Top Galbanum 18.326 SAB
12 Gardenia Base .1 Methyl Tuberate
36 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Geranio Bourbon
23 Aubepine
5 Geranyl Acetate
9 Lavende Verte 1,000
338 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
15 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
34 Geraniol
3 Anisalcohol
5 Lyral
8 Ionone Alpha 60
33 Galaxolide 50
1 Poirinate
3 Galbanodor
2 Berryflor
6 Triplal
.1 Alcohol C - 9
53 Muguet Base

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Glen O. Brechbill 164

Chypre Floral # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

33 Iso E Super 3 Geranyl Formate


9 Top Galbanum 18.326 4 Triplal
35 Phthalate D’Ethyle .1 Folione
1 Mousse De Metre 5 Lavender 48/50 %
17 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 1 Orris Inco 2
4 Patchouli Oil Light 1 cis - Jasmone
7 Sandalwood Synthetic 11 Verdox
35 Musk 50 DEP .1 Vert de Cassis Givco 180
.1 Anisylalcohol 3 Apritone
2 Javanol .1 Undecaverto
18 Gardenia Base 3 Citronet
1 Heliotropine 5 Nerol Pure
12 Peonile 2 Begamont
63 Hydroxycitronellol 27 Linalyl Acetate
1 Gardenia Acetal 1 Pamplemousse
71 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 4 Allyl Amyl Glycolate 97 %
64 Ionone For Soap .2 Neroli Bigarade Oil
33 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Stemone
58 Geraniol 970 .1 Germacrene D’Natural 40 % PC 192
11 Anisque Aldehyde 1 Iris Givco 204/2
57 Ionone Intermediate Base 3 Sweet Orange Oil
.1 Parmavert 3 Applinal
6 Citronellol 750 .1 Cis - 3 - Hexenol
14 Argumen 1 Florymoss - Givaudan
321 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Methyl Jasmonate
1 Benzophenone 1,000
4 Freesia
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Mallow
1 Perryfix
3 Sandalwood Oliffac
.1 Aldeido C - 8
10 Linalool Synthetic FCC
1 Muguet Aldheyde 50 BB

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165 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Chypre Fresh

CHYPRE FRESH

The term fresh is open to a wide variety of interpretations. Fresh can be floral directed having its origins
in many different flowers, and of course with citrus top note components. With time this term has become
increasingly generic in its use.

Top Bergamot 6 % Dry

Jasmin 1 %, Ylang Ylang .5 %, Grape .5 %, Woody Notes .5 % Fresh

Green Notes, Carnation

Middle Jasmin 8 %

Violet 9 %, Carnation 2 %, Rose 7 % - Sweet Floral


Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 2.5 % Vetiver 5 %, Muguet 2.5 %, Lavender .5 %

Base Tonka 3 %

Patchouli 2 %, Sandalwood 4 %, Moss - Trace Woody

Musk 2 %, Opoponax - Trace, Olibanum - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 166

Chypre Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Evernyl 8 Methyl Anthranilate


19 Patchouli Indonesian Light 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
10 Benzyl Alcohol 4 Carnation Augaflor 51
34 Coumane 6 Menthanyl Acetate
3 Olibanum Resinoid 29 Linalool 97 %
4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 4 DMBC - Acetate
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Alcohol C - 9
16 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Styrallyl Acetate
5 Opoponax Base 7 Ylang Ylang Substitute
11 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Pearlate
8 Meijiff 2 Vetiveryl Acetate
35 Sandalwood Extender 9 Aurantiol Pure
77 Acetato Benzila 1 p - Cresyl Acetate
14 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Petilyn
23 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Bois Amberene Forte
4 Endro Estragao 20 Linalyl Acetate
73 Ionone Intermediate Base 14 Methyl Ionone Alpha
59 Geraniol 9 Lyral
16 Carnation Base 6 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Levanalis .1 Carnaline
1 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Leaf Alcohol
39 Vetiver Extender 5 Empetal
8 Citronellol 3 Jasmonyl
8 Irisone Bis .1 Ionone
318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .3 Phelandrone
3 Methyl Lavender Ketone
1 Roseone
2 Veraflor 1,000
6 Koavonne
1 Anisyl Alcohol
.1 Undecavertol
4 Geranyl Acetate
3 Nutmeg India
6 Amyl Salicylate
2 Guaiyl Acetate

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167 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

28 Coumarin Substitute .2 Methyl Tuberate Pure


14 Cashmeran 1 Dianthanol
9 Benzyl Alcohol double distilled 4 Grape Base
1 Evernyl 25 Linalool
22 Salicylate De Benzyle .1 Octyl Acetate
3 Opoponax Base 11 Ylang Ylang Substitute
44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Muguesia
2 Olibanum Resinoid 50 % / DPG .1 Bha
6 Galbanum Resinoide 1 Girofle Griffex
9 Acetate Iso Eugenol 3 Cedrenyl Acetate
25 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Scennal
45 Rose Base .1 Rosa
6 Methyl Lavender Ketone 1 Mountain Savory
1 Jacinthe 127 SA .1 Ylang
5 Citronellol 5 Muguet Aldehyde 50
74 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
12 Eugenol .1 Fleur D’Oranger Vert De 115SA
3 Di Methyl Octanol 2 White Graperuit Israel Oil
7 Kephalis .1 Rose 1892
34 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 37 Linalyl Acetate
25 Galaxolide Gx in DEP 3 Bourgenal
19 Patchouli natural & std. Oil 1 Sandel, Asia
3 Lyral .1 Rose Oxide R
65 Geraniol 60 1 Vanillin
4 Hydroxyciol
47 Vetiver Extender
1 Santalol 1,000
316 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Helioforte
3 Tangerine - Mexico
44 Sandalwood Substitute
9 Lavender Oliffac
3 Methyl Iso Eugenol
.1 Alcool C - 8
2 Valarian
5 Geranyl Acetate

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Glen O. Brechbill 168

Chypre Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

19 Patchouli Oil MD .1 Bitter Orange Sicily Essence


9 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Ethyl Geranate
28 Coumarin Substitute .3 Ionone
1 Lichen 23 Linalol S97
37 Sandalwood Extender .1 Tea Green
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Gyrane
24 Galaxolide 50 5 Methyl Jasmonate
3 Brahmanol 3 Scennal
.1 Vanilla Absolute .1 Violiff
11 Salicylate Amila 39 Linalyl Acetate
1 Opoponax Resinoid .1 Aldehyde C - 10
4 Sanjinol 3 Rodinol Sweet
19 Benzyl Salicylae 5 Citronet
26 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Lindentree
14 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Petilyn
.1 Alcohol C - 8 2 Orange Oils Dark
6 Alpha - Ionol 1 Thyme, White
3 Musk Gazalle 4 Nerol 97
22 Citronellol 3 Cananga
5 Orris Oil .1 Undecatriene 10 %
45 Geraniol 33 Ionone Alpha 60
9 Methyl Lavender Ketone 4 Rose Acetal
13 Damascenia Base 3 Mandarinal
1 Opoponax Resinoid Washed 6 Methyl Anthranilate
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 4 Iso, Eugenol
24 Carnation Base
309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
.1 Ravensare 1,000
83 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
45 Vetiver Extender
24 Lilial
1 Acetate Styralyle
9 Aurantiol pure
4 Neryl Acetate
1 Phyllos

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169 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE FRESH
Top White Vineyard Peach 4 %

Pear 1 %, Violet Leaves - Trace, Bergamot - Italian 6 % Fruity Fresh Fruity

Mandarin Yellow 3 %, Orange Flower Abs. - Trace

Ylang Ylang 3 %
Middle
Rose 9 % - Sweet, Sir Paul Smith Rose .5 %, Violet 5 % Floral
Vetiver 2 %
Reseda 1 %, Muguet 6 %, Jasmin 8 %

Base Patchouli 3 %

Sandalwood 3 %, Moss - Trace, Vanilla 3 % Warm

Tonka 1 %, Benzoin .5 %, Leather .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 170

Chypre Fresh # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

22 Patchouli Oil T 871 3 Geranyl Acetate


.1 Civet 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
.1 Evernyl 34 Peacharoma Base
28 Sandela 1 Heptone
15 Vanisal 1 Santallyl Acetate
41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Orange Flower Base
5 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 24 Linalool
3 Cedryl Acetate Liquid 1 Serenolide
29 Benzylsalicylate 1 Neroline
4 Di Isopropyl Phenol 2 Iso Amyl Geranate
.1 Chharla .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
5 Brahmanol 3 Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast
15 Ethyl Vanillin 57 Linalyl Acetate
1 Adoxal 1 Methyl Benzoate
22 Vetiver Extender .1 Neroli Blossom Water
3 Balsam Peru Oil 4 Lilial
6 Javanol 9 White Vineyard Peach - Givaudan
9 Hydroxyciol .1 Ylang Eco Essence
1 Leather LWS - 3768 4 Lavender Oil Clonal
4 Reseda Body 2 Ionone Alpha
8 Citronellol750 .2 Leaf Alcohol
1 Nyctanthes 1 Meranol
13 Rose For Soap Base
5 Jasmorange F
312 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
53 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
78 Geraniol 98 %
2 Beta Ionyl Acetate
57 Muguet Base
71 Hedione
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Alcohol C - 08
24 Mandarin Oil Yellow C.P.
5 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan
.1 Cassia rectified

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171 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Fresh # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .1 Orange Flower Base


1 Oakmoss Givco 1 Anapear
44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Suderal HT - IFF
17 Vanilina 2 Ultrazur
35 Benzylsalicylate 5 Geranyl Acetate
29 Sandalwood Extender .1 Orange Flor Deco
1 Cedryl Acetate 1 Cassis Fragrance
25 Patchouly Madagascar 3 Geranodyle
2 Benzophenone 1 cis - 3 - Hexanol
13 Di Iso Propyl Phenol .1 Sandalwood Essence
6 Green Ivy Givco 168 35 Aldehyde C - 14
2 Suderal LT 1 Calendula Oil
5 Serenolide 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
19 Vetiver Extender .1 Folione
27 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Bergamot Eco Essence
12 Vanillin, Ethyl 1 Anapear
3 Heliotropinone 3 Nerol Coeur
68 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 2 Phyllos
13 Benzyle Acetate 11 Alil Amil Glicato
14 Citronellol 1 Petilyn
.1 Vanilla Absolute .1 Rose Riviera
25 Ionone Alpha 4 Laurine Extra
7 Terpineol .1 Vertocinth
3 Rose Oil Templar
18 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
25 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000
74 Geraniol
327 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Reseda Body
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Musk Emeressence
.1 Alcohol C - 9
28 Mandarin Italian
.1 Irone V
4 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan
3 Amyl Salicylate

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Glen O. Brechbill 172

Chypre Fresh # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol


29 Patchouli Oil MD 8 Vertofix Coeur
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 26 Mandarin Oil - South Africa
25 Vanillin .2 Pepperwood
32 Sandela 1 Birch Sweet Canada
.1 Mousse De Chenne .1 Undecavertol
.1 Rose Oxide L 3 Anapear
1 Glycolierral 5 Argumex hc
3 Cedryl Acetate 50 % .1 Rose Blossom Pentanol
1 Anisyl Alcohol 6 Tangerine Oil - Florida
4 Reseda Body 4 Nerol
3 English Leather Base 3 Orange Flower Base
1 Methyl Benzoate 4 Pearlate
24 Vetiver Extender 3 Lindestrene
2 Hawthorn 11 White Vienyard Peach - Givaudan
6 Rosenol Synthetic 1 Bergamote Cote d’Ivoire
75 Acetate De Benzila 1 Bergamot Oil Calabrian Finest
17 Ethyl Vanisal 4 Geranyl Acetate
1 Damascenia 185 SA .1 Leaf Acetal
8 Hidroxicitronelal .1 Violet Leaves
63 Geraniol 1 Iso Jasmone
29 Ylang Ylang Substitute 38 Linalyl Acetate
24 Ionone Alpha 60
4 Methyl Lavender Ketone
15 Rose Substitute 1,000
314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Citronellol Pure
.1 2 - Undecanone
4 Laurine Extra
.1 Alcohol C - 8
22 Linalool
54 Hydroxycitronellal Extender
28 Peach Pure - Givaudan
2 Massada
4 Meranol
18 Methyl Ionone Gamma

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173 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Chypre Fruity

CHYPRE FRUITY

This concept is characterized by a predominate fruitiness often having a peach like fragrance. It is more
pronounced in this group having components that are inherent to this family.

Top Apple 3 %

Bergamot 8 %, Lime 4 %, Tangerine 2 % Fruity

Peach 1 %

Middle Jasmin 8 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Rose 14 %, Lilac 6 %, Hawthorn 1 % Floral


Methyl Cedryk Ketone 1 %
Muguet 2 %, Argumen 1 %

Base Musk 10 %

Cedar 1, % Sandalwood 1 % Animalic

Moss - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 174

Chypre Fruity # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Moss Oliffac .1 Alcohol C - 9


93 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Lime Essence
9 Osyrol 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Tangerinol
14 Coumane 11 Di Ethyl Malonate
8 Cedarwood Oil Virginia 29 Linalool
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Ocimene PQ
22 Benzylsalicylate 9 Lime Oil Distilled Mexican
4 Sandalore .3 Aldheyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Rosone .1 Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate
65 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 3 Bergamot Oil - Italy
9 Argumen Substitute 8 Hydroxyciol
4 Cycrohexylethylacetate 4 Methyl Diantilis
3 Florhydral 1 Phenylethylacetate
10 Aubepine ( Anisic Aldehyde ) 9 Menthanyl Acetate
22 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 43 Linalyl Acetate
1 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 2 Perryfix
5 Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal 3 Hysimal
9 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 29 Di Hydro Myrcenol
58 Terpineol Prime 5 Vetyralia 3562 P
7 Citronellol 2 Top Muguet
4 Florhydral .1 Alpha Damascone
2 Di Methyl Octanol
1 Meijiff
294 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
7 alpha - Ionone
91 Geraniol
3 Jasilyn
.1 Rose Templar
1 Glycolierral
3 Tropical Jasmine
8 Apple Juice Givco 204/2
4 Jasmin Egypt
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Undecylenic
10 Hexyl Salicylate
17 Verdox

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175 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Fruity # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Santalex T Neat 5 Floramelon


22 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Coumarin 13 Lavender Citrus Base
1 Mousse De Chenne .1 Violet Leaf Abs.
.1 Civet Artificial IA 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50
73 Galaxolide Artessence 9 Fresh Apple - Sweet Note
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Persicol SA
10 Patchouli Indonesian Light 26 Dimetol
9 Aubepine .1 Nonadienal
3 Scennal 33 Linalool
1 Cedro ( Folha ) .1 Rose Blossom Pentanol
8 Hyacinth Base 1 Vanilla Bean Tincture
5 Florhydral .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
22 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Tangerinol
4 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Applinal
7 Cedarwood Oil ( Indian ) 19 Tangerine Oil C.P.
75 bEnzyl Acetate 1 Scennal
10 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 47 Linalyl Acetate
9 Argumen Substitute 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
14 Citronellol - High Purity 1 Apritone
2 Lindenol .1 Leaf Alcohol
1 Methyl tuberate Pure 3 Methyl Jasmonate
3 Di Methyl Octanol 5 Citrus Bergamia
8 Rose Substitute 1 Meranol
9 Lilial
35 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
297 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
5 Lyral
67 Geraniol 60
28 Lilac Base
11 Hexyle Salicylate
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
26 Apple Juice 600
.1 Black Tea Extract
1 Iso Damascone
.1 Rose Abs. Maroc
4 Armoise Maroc

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Glen O. Brechbill 176

Chypre Fruity # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Cedrenyl Acetate 3 Apple Juice Givco 223


8 Brahmanol 6 Bergamot Oil - Italian
1 Oakmoss Givco 214 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
2 Ambarine - Synarome 2 Berryflor
75 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Iralia
14 Coumarin pure 47 Linalyl Acetate Synthetic
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 19 Dimetol
1 Rose Crystals 6 Geranyl Acetone
22 Benzylsalicylate 11 Verdox
9 Laurine Extra 8 Bergamot Oil Substitute
3 Javanol 4 Vanilla Beans
58 Acetate De Benzila 7 Lime Oil, distilled
4 Melfloral 9 Di Ethyl Malonate
21 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .8 Styrallyl Acetate
3 Sandalwood Oliffac 23 Tangerine Oil - Florida
9 Aubepine 2 Gelsol F
12 Argumen Substitute .1 Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate
10 Methyl Cedryl Ketone ( Vetamber ) 1 Syringa Aldehyde
55 Terpineol Prime 3 Petilyn
4 Citronellol 1 Apple Oliffac
15 Jasmin Province Base .1 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
5 Ionone Alpha 60 2 Silvial
103 Geraniol 98 % 1 Nerol
1 Cashmeran
1 Styrax REsinoide
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1,000
302 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Ivor Corps
26 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
7 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
.2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Carnation Leaves Essence
.3 Rose Otto
31 Linalol Synthetic

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177 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE FRUITY
Top Vanoris 3 %

Fleuramone - Trace Bergamot 6 % - Fruity, Petitgrain 1 %, Lemon 7 % Fruity


cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate - Trace
Extrovert High Impact - Trace Basil 2 %
Rose Nitrile - Trace
Jasmine 11 %
Middle
Tilanol 3 %, Rose 7 % - Sweet, Violet 2 % Floral
Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Vertenex 3 % Verotyl 3 %, Argumen 1 %, Cyclomyral 1 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Iso E Super 4 %
Base
Vanilla 1 %, Tonka .5 %, Spruce Oil 2 % Warm Woody

Fir Needle Oil 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 178

Chypre Fruity # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Coumarin pure 6 Petitgrain Paraguay


3 Heliotropine 28 Iso Nonyl Acetate
10 Benzyl Alcohol .1 Floral Water Rose
1 Rose Crystals .2 Spearmint Oil
7 Vanillin 67 Lemon Oil ( Euro Coumarin Free )
24 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Verdyl Acetate
41 Iso E Super .1 Cyclovertal
1 Sandalwood Oliffac 25 Verotyl
.1 Orcinyl 3 .2 Extrovert High Impact
22 Benzyl Saliyclate 10 Fir Douglas
10 Ionoen Alpha White Coeur 16 Bergamot Oil Substitute
2 Fleuranone 1 Ionone Alpha REfined
4 Ethyl Vanisal 11 Verdyl Propionate
68 Hedione 4 Iso Methyl Cedyl Ketone A
2 Toscanol 1 Jamaica Oil
34 IBCH - Acetate ( Vertenex ) 3 Tangerine Oil Florida
9 Cyclomyral .1 Basil Commores Essence
3 Methyl Octalactone 1 Amyris Oil - Haiti
52 Geraniol Pur 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
29 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Meranol
.4 Meijiff .1 Bulgaflor
11 Rose For Soap Base 5 Nerol
18 Methyl Ionone 3 Trepanol
287 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Iso - Eugenol
27 Tilanol Super
.1 Vanillyl Absolute
9 Lilial 1,000
6 Citronellol
7 Floralmelon
35 Linalyl Acetate
27 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
1 Neroli Egypt
.1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11
.2 Applinal
10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
23 Linalol
.3 Rose Nitrile

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179 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Fruity # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Coumarin pure 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol


3 Heliotropine 26 Linalol
10 Benzyl Alcohol .3 Rose Nitrile
1 Rose Crystals 6 Petitgrain Paraguay
7 Vanillin 18 Iso Nonyl Acetate
25 ( DEP ) .1 Floral Water Rose
31 Iso E Super .2 Spearmint Oil
1 Sandalwood Oliffac 77 Lemon Oil ( Euro Coumarin Free )
.1 Lichen 9 Verdyl Acetate
22 Benzyl Saliyclate .1 Cyclovertal
10 Ionoen Alpha Refined 22 Verotyl
2 Fleuranone .2 Extrovert High Impact
1 Ethyl Vanisal 10 Fir Douglas
71 Benzyl Acetate 19 Bergamot Oil Substitute
2 Toscanol 1 Ionone
34 IBCH - Acetate ( Vertenex ) 11 Verdyl Propionate
9 Cyclomyral 4 Iso Methyl Cedyl Ketone A
3 Methyl Octalactone 1 Jasilyn
50 Geraniol 60 3 Tangerine Oil Brazil
29 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Basil Commores Essence
.4 Laurine 1 Amyris Oil - Haiti
13 Rose For Soap Base 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
18 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Meranol
300 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Bulgaflor
27 Tilanol Super 5 Nerol
.1 Vanillyl Absolute 3 Trepanol
9 Lyrame 1 Iso - Eugenol
3 Citronellol
7 Melfloral
38 Linalyl Acetate 1,000
24 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
1 Neroli Egypt
.1 Aldehyde C 11 Lenic
.2 Perryfix

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Glen O. Brechbill 180

Chypre Fruity# 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Coumarin pure 6 Petitgrain Paraguay


3 Heliotropine 28 Vanoris
10 Benzyl Alcohol .1 Rose Orient
2 Rose Crystals .2 Spearmint Oil
7 Vanillin 67 Lemon Oil ( Euro Coumarin Free )
24 Phthalate (DEP) 9 Verdyl Acetate
40 Methyl Cedryl Ketone A .1 Cyclovertal
3 Sandalwood Oliffac 25 Verotyl
.1 Orcinyl 3 .2 Extrovert High Impact
22 Benzyl Saliyclate 10 Fir Douglas
8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 16 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Fleuranone 1 Ionone
4 Ethyl Vanisal 11 Verdyl Propionate
68 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 4 Sandalore
3 Toscanol 1 Florymoss
34 Vertenex 3 Tangerinol
9 Cyclomyral .1 Basil Commores Essence
5 Alicate 1 Amyris Oil - Haiti
52 Geraniol 60 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
27 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Meranol
.4 Meijiff .1 Bulgaflor
9 Rose For Soap Base 5 Nerol
6 Methyl Ionone Gamma 3 Trepanol
306 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Iso - Eugenol
27 Tilanol Super
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
5 Mallow 1,000
6 Citronellol 850
7 Melfloral
37 Linalyl Acetate
27 Jasphene
1 Neroli Egypt
.1 Aldehyde C 11 - 11
.2 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
21 Linalool
.3 Rose Inactive

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181 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Musk, Animalic Fragrance Chemicals

Abalide Sweet musk similar to tonalid.


Ambargris A healing panacea made from large chunks of ambergris only when
they are found by fisherman floating on the Atlantic Ocean. A scent
so beautiful and popular in Morocco that it inspired John Singer
Sargent to paint his famous La Furnee d'Ambergris.
Ambergris T Oliffac A substitute for the traditional 3 % tincture of ambergris.
Ambrain Labdanum musk.
Ambrette Ess. Beurre Lave A delicate sweet musk fragrance.
Ambrette C Sweet musk.
Ambrette XNM Sweet, but heavy floral musky odor.
Ambrettex Musk.
Ambrettolide Floral musky sweet odor.
Ambrinol Extremely powerful amber with natural somewhat musky.
A C A Di Methyl Acetal Peculiar animal green odor.
Amyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet musk animal odor.
Angelic Root Oil Pleasantly aromatic a mixture of musk.
Animalic 9143 Animal.
Animalone Musk.

Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Mild sweet honey floral.

Castaulon Warm, intense fatty hairy animal odor.


Castorium Hyper Abs. Very powerful warm animal like scent.
Cashmeran Diffusive musk.
Celestolid Mild, and sweet musky odor.
Civet Abs. 394 BF An extremely powerful obnoxious animal like fecal odor.
Civet AAB394 Fine substitute of the original absolute.
Civet AB422A Excellent reconstitution long lasting.
Civet Abs. 394 BF An extremely powerful obnoxious animal like fecal odor.
Civet Artificial I.A. Lacks the characteristic softness which is found with powder.
Civet Artificial XBS Obnoxiously strong fecal odor.
Civet Augaflor 6 Strong, long lasting civet-like specialty, unmistakably animal with
a woody background. A good economical reproduction of the

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Glen O. Brechbill 182

original and possesses good fixative properties. May be used to


advantage in toiletries where the price of the natural material
precludes use.
Civet Base # 1 A very sweet slightly cloying fecal odor of the abyssinian cat.
Civet Concentrate 50 Strong acidic animal, fecal tone invaluable in fine fragrances.
Civet Concrete Musky odor extremely diffusive and tenacious.
Civet Ethiopia A glandular secretion collected from primarily male cats. In small
traces adds a velvety touch to many different fine bouquets.
Civet # 3 S - 788 A strong animal odor of the civet cat close to the natural oil.
Civet 170 BSA Typical animal sweet musky odor reminiscent of the civet cat.
Civet Powder Unquestionably animal fecal odor of the civet cat.
Civet Resin Abs. Diffusive animal fecal like odor of the civet cat.
Civet Tincture An odor reminiscent of the civet cat, fecal like.
Civet 241 Oliffac Strong animal, fecal notes similar to natural civet, sensual.
Civettal A liquid form which lacks the softness found with natural powder.
Civette Abs. Animal sweet, free from fecal and urine notes.
Civette Artifical Abs. Animal sweet.
Civette Givco 169 This Givco is a close reconstitution of civet absolute, which it can replace in
equal amounts. It does not contain any animal extract. It adds diffusive
warmth to fragrances and provides the distinctive effect produced by natural
civet in floral-jasmin, amber, oriental, chypre, and tobacco accords.
Civette 170 BSA Typical animal sweet odor of the civet cat.
Civettone A ketone, active element in Abyssinian civet synthesized.
Copaiba Oil Musk, milder sweeter almost creamy balsamic.
Cyclo Penta De Canolide Musky somewhat animal.

Di Hydro Ambrettolide Musky sweet odor of good tenacity.

Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful sweet honey like.


Ethylene Brassylate Sweet musk warm and powdery.
Exaltolide Delicately animal.
Exaltex Musk.

Fixolid Sweet wody musky.

Galaxolide 50 Powerful sweet and musky.


Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Soft floral honey rose like.
Grisalva Ambergris.

Horsey Dis An animal amber complex.

Indoflor Crystals Distinct civet like slightly obnoxious animal odor.


Iso Butyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful leafy rosy musky fragrance.

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183 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Labdanum Abs. A sweet herbaceous recalling ambergris, slightly animal.

Methyl Phenyl Acetate Powerful and diffusive honey musk odor.


Monofax Musk.
Moskene Musky sweet odor.
Muscambre 66.130 A musky animal odor.
Muscenone Musk.
Muscomer Extra 810P An animal musk slightly sweet odor.
Muscone Musk.
Musk Booster 8-2-3 # DB10253 Musk.
Musk C - 14 Musk, sweet.
Musk C - 14 Supra Musk, sweet.
Musk 144 Sweet musk.
Musk Abs. C ' Less An animal musky odor powerful and intense.
Musk Alpha A weak animal note, not very sweet.
Musk Ambrette Sweet, but yet heavy floral musky odor.
Musk Emeressence Sweet musk.
Musk Ketone Sweet and very tenacious musky odor.
Musk KN Musk.
Musk T Musk, sweet.
Musk T Supra Musky, fatty.
Musk Tibetine Delicately sweet musky, mildly animal like.
Musk TM II Sweet tenacious musk like.
Muskylein Sweet musk.
Musk Xylol Sweet musk tenacious odor rather harsh.

Nepalva Sweet musky odor.

Oxahexalid Sweet tenacious musk with an ambrette note.


Oxalide T Sweet, soft extremely animal musky odor.
Oxalide T Supra An isomeric sweet musk mixture.

Phantolid Sweet, musky somewhat animal odor.


Phenyl Acetic Acid Sweet honey animalic type odor.
Phenylal A very sweet honey animal odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Mild and warm rose honey like odor.
Polafix Sweet, woody musky odor.
Polaride Sweet and musky odor.

Skatole Powerful sweet warm animal.

Tetralide Musky powdery floral.

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Glen O. Brechbill 184

Tonalid Sweet woody musky.


Tonalix 50 Strong radiant musk.
Tonquitone Musk.
Traseolide 100 Sweet musk.
Triflaige - A Tropical, fruity, floral, musk-like.

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185 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Chypre Floral Animalic

CHYPRE FLORAL ANIMALIC

There are several popular animal notes that are employed in modern perfumery today. Musk was original-
ly obtained from the musk deer native to Asia. In dilution otherwise known as a tincture it has a distinctive
animal like note. Civet is a cat native to Ethiopia in Africa. The animal has a gland that produces a sweet urine
musk like odor that produces a velvety nuance to many fragrance blends in trace amounts. A third is Ambergris
produced by the sperm whale. Often this material gray in color is found washed up on the shores of beaches
around the world after being vomited by the whale. A pound of this material can bring a King's ransom. Today
most of the musk like animal materials are produced synthetically. Fine representations of this group include
Galaxolide 50, Ethylene Brassylate including Cashmeran, and Nepalva. Materials that include Phenyl produce
a musk like honey fragrance.

Top Bergamot 6 %

Lime 2 %, Cassis 1 %, Green Notes .5 %, Pineapple - Trace Fruity

Apple - Trace, Pear - Trace

Middle Jasmin 7 %,

Rose 15 %, Violet 7 %, Muguet 6.5 % Floral

Tuberose - Trace
Base
Musk 18 %

Sandalwood 2 %, Vanilla 1 %, Moss - Trace Warm

Tonka 1 %
Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 186

Chypre Floral Animalic # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Sandela 1 Breu
1 Moss Oliffac 3 Stemone
123 Galaxolide 50 19 Linalol Pur FT
8 Benzilique Alcool 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50
1 Ambre 140 1 Bergaleaves
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 10 Vert de Cassis Givco 180
1 Ambergris .1 Folione
32 Benzyl Salicylate 17 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
37 Traseolide 6 Di Ethyl Malonate
2 Cedraclaire 3 Cassis
11 Amyl Salicylate 2 Pearlate
4 Massada 38 Linalyl Acetate
3 Cashmeran .1 Rose Oil Bulgaria
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 4 Applinal
1 Iso Rose 3 Menthanyl Acetate
11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Pearalate
72 Acetate De Benzila 4 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
6 Vanilline .1 Leaf Acetal
18 Methyl Ionone Gamma 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
103 Geraniol 5 Myraldyl Acetate
2 Iso Amyl Geranate .1 Orange Essence Oil
46 Muguet Base 2 Galbex 183
3 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Grapefruit Essence
5 Citronellol
1 Amyris Oil W.I.
267 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
19 Rose For Soap Base
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 p - Cresyl Acetate
.3 Mugone S 207M
.1 Alcohol C - 8
24 Bergamot Oil Substitute
4 Styrallyl Acetate
3 Top Galbanum 18.326
1 Musk Emeressence
11 Dimetol

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187 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Floral Animalic 3 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Alcool Benzilico 11 Amyl Salicylate


6 Cedrenyl Acetate 22 Linalool Pur
125 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Rose Turkish Abs.
9 Vanillin 7 Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
.1 Civet 3 Verdox
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Santalol
1 Oakmoss Givco .1 Alcohol C - 9
9 Levosandal 1 Moon Drops - Givaudan
1 Adoxal 3 Styrallyl Acetate
6 Macrolide 9 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
14 Rose Substitute 38 Linalyl Acetate
9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 3 Perryfix
77 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 15 Dimetol
6 Ethyl Vanisal 4 Phenyl Hexanol
5 Top Muguet 18.326 1 cis - 3 - Hexyl Salicylate
.1 Exaltolide 2 Pearlate
4 Petunal 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde
9 Ionone Alpha 1 Cassis Givco
16 Rose Centifolia Base .3 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
4 Iso Eugenol Acetate 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
7 Citronellol 1 Irisone Pure
15 Sandalwood Oliffac .1 Tuberose Oliffac
8 Lilial .3 Reseda Acetal
63 Muguet Base
289 Di Propylene Glycol
14 Ionone For Soap 1,000
94 Geraniol
3 Lavender - Turkey
2 Bois Ambrene Forte
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
7 a - Ionone Extra
9 Lime Oil # 96
3 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
1 Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast
4 Verotyl

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Glen O. Brechbill 188

Chypre Floral Animalic # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Vanilla Tincture 80 % 1 Tangerine Green Oil


35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Myraldyl Acetate
9 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Bergamot Calabrin Essence
22 Sandalwood Oil Australia .3 cis - 3 - Hexenyle Salicylate
173 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Muguet Alcohol
.1 Moss Oliffac .3 Aldeido C - 11 Lenico
9 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 5 Lime Oil, C/P & Folded
1 Benzophenone .1 Nonadienal
64 Acetate De Benzila 4 Pivane 22
1 Iso Jasmone 1 Bourgeons De Cassis
3 Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB 2040 3 Styrallyl Acetate
1 Damascenone Alpha 3 Lioral
4 Para Cresyl redistilled 6 Menthanyl Acetate
11 Salicylate Amila 3 Verdox
8 Kephalis 1 Cetylia Base T
6 Hawthorn 1 Iralia
3 Ionone 19 Linalool
10 Hydroxycitronellal 5 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
7 Ionone Alpha Refined 3 Vert De Cassis Givco 180
2 Peach Oliffac 1 Nerol Coeur
14 Jasmin Province Base 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde
3 Citronellol 750 11 Dimetol
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 1 Farnesol
1 Methyl Benzoate
10 Lyral
9 Iris Beurre Oil 1,000
105 Geraniol Coeur
301 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
14 Phenyl Ethyl ALcohol
.1 Exaltolide
53 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
.1 Alcohol C - 10
11 Tuberose Substitute
4 DMBC - Acetate
27 Linalyl Acetate

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189 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE FLORAL ANIMALIC

Top Bergamot 6 % - Fruity

Lemon 2 %, Pineapple .5 %, Basil .5 % Fruity

Violet Notes, Jasmin, Nutmeg .25 %

Middle Jasmin 8 %

Iso E Super 2 % Muguet 5 %, Violet 5 %, Geranium 1 % Floral


Vetivert 1 %
Florhydral 1 % Ylang Ylang 1 %, Rose 5 %, Lavender .5 %
Cinnamic Alcohol 1 %
Musk 20 %
Base
Sandalwood 3 %, Vanilla .5 %, Galbanum .5 %

Tonka .5 %, Amber - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 190

Chypre Floral Animalic # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

23 Iso E Super .1 Parmavert


28 Sandalwood Extender 4 Nutmeg Oil
137 Galaxolide Artessence 7 Iso Raldeine
1 Moss Oliffac .1 Nonadienal
3 Vanillin .1 Orange Aldehyde 50 %
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
.1 Civettal 29 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
43 Etilen Brasilate 1 Geranium Oil Moroccan
9 Brahmanol 37 Linalyl Acetate
11 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Bourgenal
1 Amber Substitute .1 Rose Otto
6 Muskylein 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
9 Alcool Cinamico .1 Exaltolide
72 Benzyl Acetate 1 Citronellyl Acetate
16 Vetiver Extender 27 Lemon Oil, Italian
1 Phyllos 1 Bonorax
5 Lyral .1 Bitter Orange Sicily Essence
2 Ethyl Vanisal 3 Glycoflor
4 Hysimal .1 Tuberose Oliffac
3 Citronellol 2 Cetylia Base T
24 Di Hyrdro Iso Jasmone 4 Cepionate
4 Florhydral .1 Nerol
6 Lavender 40/52
48 Geraniol 60
4 Muguet Augaflor 16 1,000
305 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Koavonne
17 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
1 Apple Blossom
.1 Iris Abs.
3 Geranyl Acetate
1 Everlasting Oil - France
5 Velvione
28 Linalol

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191 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Floral Animalic # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

19 Sandela 4 Lavender Oil French


183 Galaxolide Artessence 6 Verdyl Acetate
4 Vanillin 24 Linalol
18 Iso E Super .1 2, 6 Nonadien
5 Velvione 6 Orange Blood Oil Sicilian
.1 Vetimoss 7 Applinal
23 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Nerol
9 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
4 Eugenol 24 Lemon Oil Washed
11 Muskylein 3 Verdyl Propionate
8 Alcool Cinamico 1 Rose Orient
1 Ethyl Vanillin 38 Linalyl Acetate S96
86 Super Cepionate 3 Farnesyl Acetate
19 Vetiver Extender 6 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
7 Alpha Ionone 1 Petilyn
3 Rose Givco 217 .1 Hydroxycitornellaldimethylacetal
7 Florhydral 1 Florosia
6 Polarsan .1 Leaf Acetal
7 Methyl Lavender Ketone 1 Sandalwood Oliffac
9 Citronellol 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
.2 Elintaal Forte
3 Musk Emeressence
4 Iso Amyl Geranate 1,000
48 Laurine
6 Geranium Oil Egypt
45 Geraniol 970
.1 Iris Tincture
285 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
9 Iso Raldeine 70
4 Nutmeg Oil Indonesia
.1 2 - Undecenal
3 Florymoss
12 Rose For Soap Base
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Stemone

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Glen O. Brechbill 192

Chypre Floral Animalic # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

22 Iso & Super .1 Cassis Abs.


6 Benzophenone 3 Nutmeg India
3 Vanalina Rhovanil 1 CIS - 3 - Hexenyl Acetate
165 Musk Gx 50 % in BB 48 Muguet Base
5 Galbanum Resinoid 1 Sauge Sclarce
4 Coumane 3 Citronellyl Acetate 85 %
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Rose Acetate
1 Amber Base 4 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
2 Ethyl Vanillin 6 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
4 Givescone 3 Verdyl Acetate
81 Benzyl Acetate FFC 1 Styrallyl Alcohol
9 Ionona Alfa .3 Ylang Ylang 3
6 Lilial .1 Undecavertol
15 Methyl Ionone Alpha 1 Roseate
27 Ethylene Brassylate .1 y - Irone
5 Iris Givco 204/2 24 Lemon Oil - Washed
7 Citronellol 3 Verdyl Propionate
3 Jasmonyl LG 1 Sweet Pea
6 Elintaal Forte .1 Methyl Tuberate
21 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1 Styrax Oil - Turkey
6 Alcool Cinamico 1 Eugenyl Acetate
53 Geraniol 98
5 Methyl Lavender Ketone
.1 Exaltolide 1,000
334 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
19 Tuberose Substitute
1 Iridales
4 Cetone Alpha
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Merion
33 Sandalwood Extender
5 Vetivery Acetate, Bourbon
1 Neroli Augaflor 15
.1 Violet Methyl Carbonate
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso

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193 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Chypre Green

CHYPRE GREEN

A delightful concept, and one of my favorites is the Green theme. It is always open for experimentation
and interpretations. Generally a wide variety of floral components are incorporated into this arrangement with
a greenness based on Galbanum, Muguet, or Lily of the Valley, with strong green like synthetic notes. Often
added are herbaceous coniferous traces to round off this accord.

Top Bergamot 3 % - Fruity

Pineapple 1 %, Violet Notes, Cassis 1 % Floral Green

Green Notes, Peach 2 %

Middle Argumen 1 %

Muguet 10 %, Lilac 3 %, Jasmin 7 % Floral

Violet 3 %, Rose 5 %, Carnation 1 %, Hawthorn 1 %

Base Iso E Super 9 %

Sandalwood 1 %, Musk 3 %, Vanilla 1 % Woody

Moss - Trace
Cutters

Benzyl Alccohol 2 %
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 194

Chypre Green # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Galbanum Coeur 6 Tangerinol


11 Alcool Benzilico 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
9 Santela 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
103 Iso E Super 4 Acetato Styralyle
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Undecatriene
7 Vanillin 3 Stemone
12 Benzyl Benzoato .2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
3 Heliotropine 13 Bergamot Oil Substitute
1 Patchouli Oil 9 Linalool Synthetic FCC
14 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
44 MDJ 10 Aldeido C - 14
10 Argumen Aldehyde 7 Peacharoma Base
9 Eugenol 100 1 Cyclal - C
102 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Poirinate
4 Neo Galbanum Oil N 1 Tuberose Oliffac
11 Anisaldehyde PQ 1 Neroli Artessence
8 Citronellol .1 Galbanum Essence
4 Vanillinethyl 4 Muguet Alcohol
29 Terpineolprime 3 Cassis Fragrance
7 Rose For Soap Base 1 Geranyl Acetate
5 Methyl Ionone Gamma .1 Vanillyl Alcohol
.1 Alcool C - 9 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde
22 Iraldeine Standard Substitute 1 Peomosa
1 Methyl Benzoate 5 Green Base Augaflor 10
4 Citronellol 3 Petilyn
6 Lyral .4 Melon Org
1 Iso Jasmone 4 Narcisse 2573 - RI - 4
325 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 23 Linalyl Acetate
42 Geraniol
1 Boisnal
33 Ethylene Brassylate 1,000

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195 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Green # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Vanillin 5 Cassia Fragrance


21 Alcool Benzila .1 Ylang Eco Essence
2 Balsam Peru Oil 24 Linalyl Acetate
.1 Mousse Essence Abs. 3 Meijiff
54 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Bergamot Oil Substitute
15 Javanol 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
6 Patchouli Oil China 8 Ionone Alpha Refined
12 Benzyl Benzoate 1 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
3 Cedryl Acetate 17 Peach Pure
93 Iso E Super 10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
38 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Ribes Nigrum ( Black Currant )
19 Kephalis .1 Nonadienal
27 Galaxolide Artessence 2 Aldehyde C - 12 Pear
4 Osyrol 3 Styrallylacetate
19 Aubepine 5 Iso Amyl Geranate
13 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
8 Lavender Oil 40/42 4 Nerol
10 Sanjinol .1 Methyl Tuberate
1 3 - Octyl Acetate 3 y - Irone
.1 Cyclrose 1 Damascenia 185 SA
3 Rosone .1 Leaf Alcohol
37 Lilial 3 Myraldyl Acetate
21 Carnation Base
5 Citronellol
3 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 1,000
.1 Alcohol C - 8
9 Hidroxicitronelal
324 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Acetate De Benzyle
2 Iris Beurre Oil
43 Hercolyn - D
24 Liral
49 Geraniol
8 Linalol
3 Anapear - Givaudan
7 Lavender Citrus Base
.1 Geranium Egypt Essence

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Glen O. Brechbill 196

Chypre Green # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Linalool ex Citrata


8 Helional 14 Aldehyde C - 14
104 Iso & Super 4 y - Irone
8 Cinnamic Alcohol .1 Rose Turque
.1 Lichen 2 Scennal
9 Sandela 3 Vetyver Java
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Acetate De Geranyle
7 Vanillin .1 Tuberose Oliffac
1 Amyris Haiti 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
34 Salicylate D’Benzyle .2 Oxanone
9 Alpha - Ionone 9 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
1 Holy Basil Oil 4 Bourgenal
21 Gardenia Base 1 Vanilla Bean Clair
14 Methyl Jasmonate pure .1 Rose Oxide L
3 Javanol .1 Nonadienal
13 Aubepine ( ANisic Aldehyde ) 1 White Rose
1 Rosone .3 Leaf Alcohol
19 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 3 Florymoss
10 Eugenol 1 Friastone
2 Garcenia 75 % 1 Rose Acetate
9 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 25 Linalyl Acetate
28 Terpineol Prime 3 Bergamot Calabrian Gr. 3
6 Citronellol 950 .1 Genet Abs. - Italy
4 Hydrofix L 4 Vernol
1 Sandalore .1 Alcohol C - 09
5 Myraldyl Acetate 2 Sandal, India
1 Iso Rose
339 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
44 Geraniol 1,000
7 Eugenol, Iso
22 Hercolyn - D
105 Muguet Base
6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Anapear - Givaudan
2 Cassis Fragrance

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197 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE GREEN

Top Green Notes 1 %

Cassis 1 %, Pear 2 %, Bregamot 4 % - Fruity Fresh Green

Pineapple 1 %, Grapefruit .5 %, Basil .5 %

Middle Muguet 11 %

Lily 3 %, Hyacinth 1 %, Rose 7 % Floral

Violet 5 %, Jasmin 3 %, Hawthorn 1.5 %


Base
Galbanum 2 %

Sandalwood 5 %, Oakmoss - Trace, Tonka 2 % Warm

Civet - Trace, Vanilla .5 %, Patchouli 1 %


Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 198

Chypre Green # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Vanillin 3 Vert de Cassis Givco 180


22 Alcool Benzila 1 Meranol
3 Amyris Oil W.I. 3 Lime Distilled Peruvian
11 Patchouli Chinese .1 Aldehye C - 11 Lenic
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
.1 Civet Tincture .4 Iridales
23 Helional 7 Grapefruit Oil - West Indian
29 Salicylate De Benzyle 1 3 - Octyl Acetate
1 Mousse De Chenne 14 Linalool
24 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 2 Irisone Pure
8 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetone
11 Cetonal V 1 Bourgeon D’Avana
14 Lavande - Matherone 5 Tangerine Oil Calif. - US
9 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 8 Gardenia Base
5 Sandalore 6 Nerol
.1 Vanilla Abs. 100 % 23 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
6 Methyl Cedryl Ketone Coeur 7 Verdyl Propionate
3 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Geraniol 600
10 Para Cresyl redistilled 4 Bergamot Italian FCC
14 Citronellol 6 Cassis Fragrance
103 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Aldehyde C - 19
1 Alpha Damascone 3 Petilyn
.1 Alcool C - 8 4 Verdyl Acetate
5 Pine Seed Oil .1 Ionone
22 Hawthorn 5 Myraldyl Acetate
69 Geraniol 970
238 Di Propylene Glycol
1 Rosewood Texas Rectified 1,000
19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
5 Hyacinth Body
48 Sandalwood Extender
6 Styrallylacetate
3 Galbanodor
2 Florymoss
3 Aldehyde Cyclo Hexyl Propionate
1 Sweet Basil Oil

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199 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Green # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Vanillin 3 Aldehyde Cyclo Hexyl Propionate


22 Alcool Benzila 1 Sweet Basil Oil
3 Sandalore 3 Vert de Cassis Givco 180
11 Patchouli Oil MD 1 Meranol
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Lime Distilled Peruvian
.1 Civet Tincture .1 Aldehye C - 11 Lenic
21 Di Hydro Coumarex 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
31 Salicylate De Benzyle .4 Iridales
1 Mousse De Chenne 5 Grapefruit Oil - West Indian
26 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 3 - Octyl Acetate
6 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 16 Linalool
11 Cetonal V 1 Irisone Pure
14 Lavande - Matherone 3 Geranyl Acetone
9 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 1 Bourgeon D’Avana
5 Sandalore 5 Tangerine Oil California
.1 Vanilla Abs. 100 % 10 Gardenia Base
2 Methyl Cedryl Ketone Coeur 4 Nerol
3 Ethyl Vanisal 24 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
10 Para Cresyl redistilled 7 Verdyl Propionate
7 Citronellol .1 Meranol
114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 8 Bergamot Italian
1 Damascenia 185 SA 6 Cassis Fragrance
.1 Alcohol C - 9 1 Aldehyde C - 19
5 Fir Needle Oil Canadian 3 Petilyn
22 Hawthorn 4 Verdyl Acetate
69 Geraniol 970 .1 Ionone
258 Di Propylene Glycol 1 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Rosewood Texas Rectified
12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Hyacinth Body 1,000
41 Sandalwood Extender
5 Styrallylacetate
1 Galbanodor
1 Florymoss

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Glen O. Brechbill 200

Chypre Green # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Vanillin 3 Vert de Cassis Givco 180


10 Benzyl Alcohol FR 1 Rose Acetate
3 Amyris Oil W.I. 1 Lime Oil 410
9 Patchouli Chinese .1 Aldehye C - 11 Lenic
47 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
.1 Civet Tincture .4 Iridales
23 Helional 7 Grapefruit Oil - West Indian
22 Salicylate De Benzyle 2 3 - Octyl Acetate
1 Mousse De Chenne 15 Linalool
34 Hedione 2 Irisone Pure
8 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Geranyl Acetone
9 Ionone Alpha Refined 1 Bourgeon D’Avana
15 Lavender Oil - French 5 Tangerinol
10 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 8 Gardenia Base
5 Indisan 2 Nerol Petals
.1 Vanilla Abs. C’Less MD 27 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
6 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 9 Verdyl Propionate
3 Ethyl Vanillin .1 Geraniol 600
5 Para Cresyl redistilled 2 Bergamot Italian FCC
11 Citronellol 850 6 Cassis Fragrance
121 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Aldehyde C - 19
1 Beta Damascone 3 Petilyn
.1 Alcool C - 8 4 Verdyl Acetate
1 Pine Seed Oil .1 Ionone
19 Aubepine 5 Myraldyl Acetate
57 Geraniol 970
265 Di Propylene Glycol
1 Rosewood Texas Rectified 1,000
11 Phenyle Ethyl Alcohol
5 Hyacinth Body
48 Sandalwood Extender
6 Styrallylacetate
3 Galbanodor
2 Berryflor
3 Aldehyde Cyclo Hexyl Propionate
1 Sweet Basil Oil

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201 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE GREEN

Top Lime 2 %

Undecavertol - Trace Apple 6 %, Bergamot 9 %, Green Notes 1 % Fresh Green


Pharanone 10 % - Trace
Florhydral - Trace Pear .5 %, Raspberry - Trace

Middle Rose 9 %

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 % Muguet 7 %, Jasmin 2 %, Violet 3 % Floral


Peonile 1.5 %
Hexyl Aceate 2 % Narcissus - Trace, Osmanthus 1 %

Base Spiro Galbanone 1 %

Musk 8 %, Tonka 1.5 %, Civet - Trace Balsamic

Ambrettolide - Trace, Sandalwood 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 202

Chypre Green # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Spirogalbanone 5 Top Muguet 18.326


14 Cou Marin .1 Alcohol C - 8
1 Mousse De Chenne 8 Alicate
1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 2 Pharone 10 %
53 Galaxolide Artessence 33 Verdox
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Aldeido Ciclamen
.1 Civet Ethopia .1 Methyl Tuberate
11 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 21 Apple Juice Givco
22 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 5 Bourgenal
4 Cedraclaire 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
3 Sandela 3 Muguet Aldehyde
10 Galbanum Reunion 12 Dimetol
19 Sandalwood Extender 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Rosone 2 Osmanthus
38 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Vern Aldehyde
25 Zeppin 5 Geranyl Acetate
76 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 9 Raspberry Ketone
14 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 11 Lime Oil # 96
2 Anthamber Premium 4 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
15 Citronellol 750 2 Bourgenal
10 Florymoss 5 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Delta Damascone 8 Manzanate
87 Geraniol 60 1 Soft Skin Accord - IFF
4 Lilie
14 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Koavonne 1,000
367 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Gardionolene
8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
10 Gardenia Base
.1 Undecavertol
3 Orange Oil Sweet
.3 Aldehyde C - 8
19 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - Acetate
3 Styralyl Acetate

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203 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Green # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Spirogalbanone 8 Top Muguet 18.326


9 Alicate .1 Alcohol C - 9
1 Mousse De Chenne 8 Hexyle Acetate
1 Mberwood 2 Pharone 10 %
73 Galaxolide Artessence 48 Verdox
37 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Aldeido Ciclamen
.1 Civet Powder # 1A .1 Methyl Tuberate
11 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 15 Apple Oliffac
22 Benzyle Salicylate 2 Bois Ambrene Forte
4 Florhydral 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
3 Bacdanol 3 Muguet Aldehyde
8 Galbanum Reunion 11 Dimetol
26 Sandalwood Extender 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Rose Crystals 2 Hedione
41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Vern Aldehyde
29 Super Cepionate 7 Geranyl Acetate
76 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 9 Oxanone
20 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 11 Lime Oil # 96
2 Anthamber Premium 4 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
11 Citronellol 2 Bourgenal
4 Berryflor 5 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Alpha Damascone 1 Manzanate
83 Geraniol 1 Cashmeran
4 P - Cresyl Acetate
17 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Kephalis 1,000
349 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Gardenia Fleuriff
8 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
11 Gardenia Base
.1 Undecavertol
3 Bitter Orange
.3 Aldehyde C - 8
19 DMBC - Acetate
3 Styralyl Acetate

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Glen O. Brechbill 204

Chypre Green # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Top Galbanum .1 Alcohol C - 8


16 Coumane 8 Hexyle Acetate
1 Mousse De Chenne 2 Pharone 10 %
1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 43 Verdox
63 Galaxolide 50 3 Aldeido Ciclamen
40 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Methyl Tuberate
.1 Civet Tincture 14 Apple Juice Givco
11 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 5 Vert De Cassis Givco
22 Benzyl Salicylate IFF 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
4 Florhydral 3 Muguet Aldehyde
3 Bacdanol 9 Dimetol
10 Galbanum Reunion 4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
19 Sandalwood Extender 2 Osmanthus
1 Rose Crystals 1 Vern Aldehyde
41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Geranyl Acetate
29 Zeppin 9 Oxanone
85 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 11 Lime Oil # 96
9 alpha - Ionone 4 Di Ethyl Malonate
2 Anthamber Premium 2 Bourgenal
16 Citronellol 5 Myraldyl Acetate
16 Peonile 8 Applinal
1 Damascenia 1 Soft Skin Accord - IFF
73 Geraniol
4 P - Cresyl Acetate
17 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
5 Methyl Cedryl Ketone
341 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Gardionolene
14 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
11 Gardenia Base
.1 Undecavertol
3 Bitter Orange
.3 Aldehyde C - 8
19 Jasmin Egypt
3 Styrallyl Acetate
5 Top Muguet 18.326

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205 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Floriental

FLORIENTAL

A Floriental is a new family of fine fragrances. The heart of the composition is based on a floral arrange-
ment with a slight emphasis on oriental notes. Whether this fragrance should be classified in the floral family
of fragrances or the oriental is open for debate. I decided to place it before the oriental family since the spice
notes will predominate most arrangements.

Top Peach 1 %

Strawberry 1 %, Bergamot 7 %, Orange 5 % Fruity Sweet

Lemon 3 %, Tangerine 1 %, Apple - Trace, Basil 1 %

Middle Rose 6 %

Carnation 4 %, Jasmin 5 %, Violet 3 % Floral Spicy

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 % Muguet 3 %, Lilac 1 %

Opoponax 1 %
Base
Myrrh .5 %, Benzoin .5 %, Tonka 5 % Warm Spicy

Musk 3 %, Sandalwood 1.5 %,

Bacdanol 1 %, Vanilla .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 206

Floriental # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

19 Benzoato Benzila 4 Dianthanol


4 Heliotropine 1 Florymoss
16 Alicate 8 Strawberry Oliffac
13 Sandela .1 Myrrh Essence
4 Myrh Resinoid Washed 3 Verdyl Acetate
40 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50
11 Opoponax Resinoid .1 Violet Absolute
12 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 1 Meranol
25 Galaxolide 1 Nutmeg Oil - Sri. Lanka
33 Coumarin Pure 35 Linalyl Acetate Pure 98 %
5 Bacdanol 2 Methyl Chavicole
4 Vanillin 5 Verdox
9 alpha - Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Celeri Oil
3 Muscomer 1151 P 1 Suderal LT
26 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Nectaryl
18 Hidroxicitronelal 2 Osyrol
35 Eugenol .1 Geranyl Acetate
57 Benzyle Acetate 9 Tangerinol
6 Hidroxicitronelal 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
23 Ionone Alpha 27 Lemon Oil, Washed
5 Osyrol
14 Carnation Base
3 Vanillinethyl 1,000
6 Citronellol
11 Lindenol
4 Kephalis
335 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Verdantiol
47 Geraniol
5 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Terpinyl Acetate
6 Syringa
25 Linalol
9 Hexyl Salicylate
3 Cinnamon Leaf Oil
7 Phenylethylalcohol

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207 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floriental # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

48 Coumarin Substitute 1 Ylang Ylang “Third”


5 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 14 Irisone Pure
17 Sandela T Neat 31 Lemon Oil Arizona C.P.
9 Benzyl Benzoate 1 CIS Jasmone
9 Opoponax Base 11 Methyl Lavender Ketone
24 Ethylene Brassylate 55 Orange Oil Guinea C.P.
43 Phthalate D’Ethyle 7 Aldehyde C - 16
8 Benzoin Resinoid Synthetic 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50
1 Styrax Coeur 3 Verdox
9 Benzyl Salicylate 14 Pine Maritime Oil - France
3 Carvi 3 Carnation Augaflor 41
13 Iso Eugenol Replacement 2 Perryfix
9 Vanillin 24 Linalol
65 Claigeon 1 Cassia Oil B & F
5 Kephalis 4 Tonkarinol
1 Rose Crystals 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
17 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 9 Terpinyl Acetate
4 Lilial 6 Clove Oil rectified
7 Citronellol .1 Tonka Beans Abs.
3 Bisabolene 3 Raspberry Ketone
19 Cinnimique Aldehyde natural 7 Hidroxi Citronelal
4 Sandalore 1 Thyme Wild Oil
11 Iso - Eugenol 3 Acetate De Vetiver Coeur
63 Geraniol
9 Terpineol Prime
314 Di Propileno Glico 1000
5 Hydrofix L
.1 Rose Oxide ( Inactive )
22 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
14 Ionone Alpha Refined
1 Celery India
.1 Tea Essence
34 Carnation Base
1 Phytol
39 Linalyl Acetate Pure

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Glen O. Brechbill 208

Floriental # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 5 Citrus Bergamia


23 Benzoato Benzila 1 Safraleine
38 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 10 Aldehyde C - 14
41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 29 Linalool
12 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .1 Alcohol C - 8
9 Musk 781 53 Orange Navel Cold Pressed
10 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
1 Moss Oliffac .1 Styrallyl Propionate
3 Vanillin 3 Piperonal
9 Opoponax Resinoid 50 % / DPG 4 Verdyl Acetate
12 Sandela 3 Clove Leaf Oil rect., min 85 %
19 Sandalwood Oil Australian 41 Linalyl Acetate
1 Benteine 5 Hydrofix R
16 Aldeido Cinamico Amil 7 Pine Tree Std.
35 Carnation Base 6 Di Ethyl Malonate
4 Eugenol 3 Tangerine Oil - Syria
3 Caraway Oil 7 Peach Oliffac
63 Super Cepionate 2 Myraldyl Acetate
3 Iritone 37 Lemon - Iran
7 Citronellol 750 .1 Rose Oil Templar
8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 3 Nutmeg Indonesian
12 Lilac Base 1 Sweet Pea
1 Thymol Crystals
44 Geraniol 60
10 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000
318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Musc 50 % DPG
1 Rosone
6 Verdyl Propionate
5 Pepperwood
34 Muguet Base
.1 Ionone
4 Carnaline
3 Methyl Chavicole
.2 Aldehyde C 11 ( Undecylinque )
17 Acetate De Terpinyle

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209 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Oriental Sweet

ORIENTAL SWEET

An oriental sweet scent can have a citrus top note and a sweet vanilla amber foundation. Vanillin, and Ethyl
Vanillin both aldehydes can be used up to 10 % providing that extra sweetness. One can also utilize Balsam
Peru Oil, Vanilla Tincture, Vanilla Sur Abs. C'Less MD in conjunction with Benzyl family of materials.

Top Bergamot 9 % - Dry

Green Notes .5 %, Jasmin 2 %, Orange 1 % Fruity Sweet

Ylang Ylang 1 %, Peach 3 %, Vetiver Acetate .5 %

Middle Muguet 4 %

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Jasmin 4 %, Carnation 5 %, Rose 6 % Floral

Violet 1 %

Base Vanilla 1.5 %

Sandalwood 2 %, Musk 2 %, Patchouli 1 % Balsamic

Tonka 1 %, Vetiver 4 %, Bacdanol 1 %

Resin Benzoin 1, Moss - Trace, Earth Note - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 7 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 210

Oriental Sweet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Bacdanol .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic


10 Benzoato Benzila 8 DMBC - Acetate
7 Vanisal 54 Linalol
22 Sandalwood Extender 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
5 Benteine 4 Vetiver Acetate
1 Oakmoss Givco 10 Orange Oil of Florida
68 Salicylate De Benzyle 29 Linalyl Acetate
13 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 28 Peach Pure
5 Ethyl, Vanillin .1 Folione
7 Patchouli Light .2 Alcohol C - 10
1 Sandalwood Oil East Indian 1 Undecatriene
1 Earth 4 Nectaryl
35 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 27 Aldeido C - 14
42 Vetiver Extender 3 Vertoyl
39 Benzyle Acetate 1 Orange Aldehyde
3 Vanilla Resinoid 2 Petilyn
2 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Sandalore
9 Di Hydro Coumarex 1 Bourgenal
1 Serenolide 1 Fleuroxene
37 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Phixia
4 Methyl Iso Eugenol 3 Ciclamen Aldeido
8 Citronellol
4 Laurine Extra
319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
1 Iris Beurre Oil
52 Geraniol
3 Koavone
1 Meijiff
35 Carnation Base
6 Methyl Cedryl Ketone
5 Irisone Pure
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
2 Acetate De Styrallyle
1 Meranol
1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
1 Tuberose Oliffac

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211 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Sweet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Vanilla 3 Raspberry Leaves - IFF


11 Benzoato Benzila 6 Vetiver Oil Haitian
1 Rose Crystals 2 Styrallyl Acetate
10 Coumarin 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 24 Bergamit Oil Substitute
22 Sandalwood Substitute 3 Cetonal
4 Woodynol - II 5 Vetiver Acetate
63 Salicylate D’ Benzyl .1 Alcool C - 9
11 Patchouli Oil, Indonesian, Light 4 Sandela
9 Benteine 2 Meijiff
23 Galaxolide 50 3 Ciclamen Aldehyde
38 Eugenol 2 Muguet Alcohol
31 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 25 Peach Aroma Base
5 Javanol 5 Sandalwood Oliffac
6 Ethyl Vanisal 1 Meranol
9 Laurine Extra 1 Undecatriene
3 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Rose Otto Augaflor
35 Vetiver Extender .1 Petilyn
6 Citronellol 850 .1 Neroli Blossom Water
7 Ionone, beta 1 Orange Naval Cold Pressed
43 Cepionate 9 Peach Pure - Givaudan
58 Geraniol 97 % 3 Bergamot C.P. Guina
4 Cedraclaire .1 Violet Leaves
47 Iso Eugenol Substitute 4 Fir Needle Canadian
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
5 Iraldeine Standard
317 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
4 Nerol
2 Bisabolene
11 Resin Benzoin
38 Muguet Base
.1 Moss Oliffac
.1 Rosenol synthetic
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
.1 Styrax Mix - Oil

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Glen O. Brechbill 212

Oriental Sweet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Helional 4 Laurine
8 Vanillin 3 Caryophyllene Acetate
3 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Methyl Cinnimate
12 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Thyme Inco 20
28 Galaxolide 50 9 Terpinyl Acetate
22 Sandalwood Extender 4 Cassia
39 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 17 Orange Oil Guinea
8 Patchouli Indonesia 5 Zinergone
4 Cinnamon Bark Sri Lanka 40 % 1 Florymoss
73 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 29 Linalyl Acetate
1 Earth 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
26 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Vetiver Acetate
32 Hexil Cinamic Aldeido 3 Clove Bud Oil
1 Amber Core 32 Peach Pure - Givaudan
4 Vanillin, ethyl 7 Benzoin Siam Resinoid
8 alpha - Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Black Agar Givco 215
43 MDJ 6 Peach Aroma Base
9 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
13 Lilial 1 Pepperwood
6 Cironellol 3 Bay Leaves Oil Anise
1 Fixateur 404 .1 Rose Oxide - ( Z )
48 Carnation Base 1 Spicy Carbonate
.2 Melaleuca Altrni Folia 1 Persil Feuilles
35 Geraniol 3 Cyclamen Aldehyde
1 Pepper ( Jalapeno )
308 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
11 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1,000
8 Methyl Ionone Beta
17 Eugenol
4 Koavonne
47 Linalol S 97
2 Styrallyl Acetate
.1 Tomato Leaves
1 CIS Jasmone
.1 Sandalwood Essence
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
1 Acalea II

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213 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrance’s - Oriental Spicy

ORIENTAL SPICY

Incorporating spicy ingredients often from Indian can include clove, nutmeg and carnation, cardamom and
curry. Adding musk materials that can include floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang tend to provide
a delicate touch to this group. The notes can be bitter, or contain sweet elements A fragrance in this area is dis-
tinctive, and can be enjoyed by both men and women. Many perfumers add balsamic notes derived from bal-
sam materials including resinous notes derived from Balsam Peru.

Top Green Notes .5 %

Jasmin 2 %, Bergamot 9 % - Dry, Orange 2 %, Ylang Ylang 1 % Fruity Sweet

Peach 3 %, Apple .5 %, Neroli .5 %, Pear .25 %, Vetiver Acetate .5 %

Middle Violet 2 %

Jasmin 7 %, Carnation 4 %, Rose 5 % Floral

Muguet 5 %

Base Vanilla 2 %

Sandalwood 2 %, Musk 3 %, Patchouli 1 %, Tonka 1 % Balsamic

Vetiver 3 %, Earth - Trace, Bacdanol 1 %, Resin Benzoin 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 7 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

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Oriental Sweet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Vanisal 1 Undecatriene
10 Osyrol 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan
22 Benzoato Benzila 43 Linalool Synthetic FCC
.1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 4 Jamsonyl Acetate
10 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 1 Celery Seed Oil - India
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Floralol
9 Javanol 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde
8 Vertofix Coeur 12 Peach Pure
67 Benzylsalicylate 5 Vetiver Acetate
5 Methyl Jasmonate .3 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
4 Florhydral 24 Orange Oil of California
2 Methyl Benzoate .1 Alcohol C - 9
31 Super Cepionate .1 Ylang # 1
28 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Bourgenal
24 Vetiver Extender 1 Geranium Over Roses
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Rose Acetate
8 Benteine 9 Cinnamon - Chinese
4 Farnesol Oil 58 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
3 Irone V 4 Melfloral
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 3 Neryl Acetate
4 Meijiff 2 Stemone
5 Verdantiol 1 Pepper Black India Essence
43 Carnation Base .1 Alcohol C - 10
3 Dianthanol 9 Orange Oils, Dark
323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Anisyl Alcohol
6 Sandalwood Mysore 37 Geraniol
4 Laurine
8 Rose For Soap Base
4 Kephalis 1,000
3 Phixia
48 Muguet Base
8 Citronellol
7 Phenylethylalcohol
3 Styrallylacetate
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Caraway

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215 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Sweet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Vanisal 1 Undecatriene
8 Sandela 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan
22 Benzoato Benzila 43 Linalool Synthetic FCC
.1 Earth 4 Jamsonyl Acetate
10 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 1 Celery Seed Oil - India
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Floralol
9 Javanol 2 Ciclamen Aldeido
8 Vertofix 12 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
69 Benzylsalicylate 5 Verdantiol
5 Methyl Jasmonate .3 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
4 Pescheux 34 Orange Oil Sweet
2 Methyl Benzoate .1 Alcohol C - 9
21 Hedione High Cis .1 Ylang # 3
28 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Bourgenal
24 Vetiver Extender 1 Geranium Over Roses
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Rose Acetate
8 Benteine 11 Cinnamon - Chinese
4 Farnesol Oil 48 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
3 Irone V 2 Melfloral
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 3 Neryl Acetate
4 Meijiff 2 Stemone
5 Sandela 1 Pepper Black India Essence
43 Carnation Base .1 Alcohol C - 10
3 Bisabolene 9 Orange Oils, Dark
333 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Anisyl Alcohol
6 Sandalwood Mysore 37 Geraniol
4 Laurine Extra
8 Rose Base
4 Kephalis 1,000
3 Phixia
48 Muguet Base
8 Citronellol 750
7 Phenylethylalcohol
3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Cosmone - Givaudan

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Glen O. Brechbill 216

Oriental Sweet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Vanisal 1 Caraway
8 Bacdanol 1 Corsican Violet
22 Benzoato Benzila 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan
.1 Earth 43 Linalool
7 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 4 Jasmone
39 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 May Rose
9 Javanol 3 Floralol
8 Vertofix 2 Ciclamen Aldeido
67 Benzylsalicylate 12 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
3 Myraldyl Acetate 5 Vetiver Acetate
6 Pomarose .3 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
2 Methyl Benzoate 24 Orange Oil Sweet
31 Benzyl Acetate Coeur .1 Alcohol C - 8
28 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Ylang # 2
20 Vetiver Extender 1 Bourgenal
7 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Citronellyl Acetate
10 Iso Jasmone 1 Meranol
5 Nerolidol 9 Cinnamon - Chinese
3 Irone V 58 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
8 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Melfloral
2 Meijiff 3 Neryl Acetate
5 Verdantiol 2 Stemone
45 Carnation Base 1 Pepper Black India Essence
1 Bisabolene .1 Alcohol C - 10
326 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Orange Oils, Dark
3 Sandalwood Mysore 1 Anisyl Alcohol
4 Meijiff 37 Geraniol
5 Rose Base # 60
4 Kephalis
3 Phixia 1,000
51 Muguet Base
8 Citronellol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Styrallylacetate
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

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217 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

ORIENTAL SPICY

Top Strawberry 1 %

Bergamot 6 %, Orange 5 %, Lemon 3 %, Fruity Sweet

Mandarin 2 %, Basil 1 %, Peach - Trace

Middle Cinnamon 2 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Jasmin 4 %, Carnation 5 %, Rose 5 % Spicy Floral


Spice Notes 2 %
Violet 3 %, Muguet 1 %, Pine 1 %

Base Tonka 6 %

Opoponax 1 %, Myrry 1 %, Musk 2 % Warm Spicy

Sandalwood .5 %, Cedramber 1 %, Bacdanol 1 %, Vertofix 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Hercolyn - D 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 218

Oriental Spicy

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

6 Bacdanol 7 Lavender Oil Bulgarian


55 Coumarin Substitute 4 Zingerone
17 Ethylene Brassylate 9 Strawberry Aldehyde
21 Phthalate D’Ethyl 13 Terpinyl Acetate
9 Sandalwood Oil Australian 4 Lyral
28 Benzyl Benzoate 17 Mandarin Oil Italian Select
4 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Fennel Oil, sweet
6 Thyme Spanish White Commercial 45 Orange spanish
11 Opoponax Resinoid 1 Carvi Europe
9 Cinnamon Bark Substitute .1 Nonadienal
4 Alicate .3 Ylang Ylang Complete
42 Hercolyn - D 37 Linalyl Acetate
10 Alpha Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Rosemary Leaves Oil
39 Eugenol 32 Lemon Oils
12 Myrrh Resin Substitute 8 Hydroxycitronellal “A”
4 Thymol Crystals 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
43 Benzyle Acetate 4 Persicol SA
10 Fir Needle Oil Canada .1 Cury Leaf Oil
12 Iso Eugenol Replacement .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
11 Di Isopropyl Phenol 3 Strawberry Oliffac
4 Safraleine 1 Cassia Oil - Viet Nam
12 Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Proionate
15 Ionone Alpha .1 Myrrh Essence
4 Iso Eugenol 3 Cardamon Seed
8 Citronellol
292 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
11 Lilial 1,000
12 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
36 Geraniol
5 Poivre 125
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Nutmeg Aromatic Water
1 CIS Jasmone
24 Linalool
9 Vertofix Coeur

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219 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Spicy # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Acetate D’Iso Eugenyl 35 Lemon Oil - Ivory Coast


28 Benzoato Benzila 1 Celery India
61 Coumane 4 Thyme Oil - Spanish White
18 Galaxolide Artessence .1 Sandalwood Essence
23 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Vetivert Oil - Haiti
9 Cedramber 1 Lilial
10 Opoponax Base 9 Aldeido C - 16
6 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 22 Mandarin Oil - South African
43 MDJ .1 Tobacco Inco 20
1 Aubepine .1 Lime Essence
41 Benzyl Acetate Coeur .1 Ylang Ylang II
12 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 1 Clove Bud Oil
9 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 4 Verdy Propionate
11 Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 CIS Jasmone
8 Alcool Cinnamique synth. 3 Iralia
12 Bacdanol 5 Hydroxycitronellal A
13 Pine Oil 900 .1 Nonadienal
18 Carnation Base 3 Verdyl Acetate
42 Hercolyn - D 5 Nectaryl
39 Geraniol Pure .3 Beta Caryophellene
11 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Massada
4 Cardamon Oil - Honduras 1 Caraway ( Carvi )
10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Opoponax Augaflor 24
13 Vertofix Coeur 1 Iso - Eugenol
1 Bisabolene
7 Citronellol
289 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Lilial
.1 Exaltolide
32 Ionone Intermediate Base
41 Hercolyn - D
3 Carnaline
52 Orange Oil Sweet - US
.1 Alcohol C - 8
1 Tea Tree Oil
4 Jasmonyl Acetate
7 Terpinyl Acetate

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Oriental Spicy # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Rose Crystals 5 Verdyl Acetate


9 Sandela 9 Lyral
57 Coumane 3 Cassia Oliffac
4 Acetate Iso Eugenol 14 Bergamot Oil Substitute
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Pepper Black India Oil
11 Myrrh Resinoid Substitute 41 Linalyl Acetate
1 Drywood Augaflor 9 Aldehyde C - 16
10 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 7 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
6 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Narcissi Moroccan
16 Muscomer 1151 P 45 Orange Oil Brazil
10 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 1 Pelargene
9 Ionone Alpha 33 Lemon Juicy Coast
4 Flavoperine 8 Hidroxicitronelal
8 Massada 2 Coriande Seed Oil
36 Eugenol .1 Benzoin Abs. - Sumatra
12 Pine Oil 5 Celery Seed Oil
8 Sandalore .1 Folione
19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 8 Safraleine
24 Cinnamic Aldehyde 8 Tangerine, Florida
43 Geraniol 4 Santalol
18 Iso Eugenol Replacement
33 Benzyl Acetate Coeur
2 Girofle Clous Oil 1,000
8 Citronellol
319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
7 Lilial
11 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
14 Acetato Terppinla
5 Benzyl Iso Eugenol
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
9 Iso Eugenol
.1 Birch Sweet Essence
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
8 Nectaryl
6 Vertofix Coeur
1 CIS Jasmone
25 Linalol Coeur
3 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
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221 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

ORIENTAL SPICY

Top Lemon 4 %

Orange 2 %, Jasmin, Cherry .5 % Fruity

Raspberry .5 %, Melon .5 %, Bergamot 2 %

Middle Muguet 6.5 %

Pepper 1 % Carnation 4 %, Rose 9 %, Violet 6 % Floral Spicy

Jasmin 3 %, Cinnamon 7 %

Base Musk 3 %

Opoponax 1 %, Myrrh 1 %, Sandalwood 3 % Warm Spicy

Moss - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylae 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 222

Oriental Spicy # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 2 Eco Friendly Accord


10 Coumarin Extra Pure 9 Cinnamon Bark Oil
31 Benzyl Salicylate 6 Jasmolactone Extra C
24 Ethylene Brassylate 25 Orange Oil, Sweet
8 Opoponax Base .3 Tobacco Tincture
1 Thymoxane 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Suderal HT
8 Brahmanol 13 Terpinyl Acetate
6 Caryophylline 919 41 Lemon Italian Select ( Winter Crop )
11 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 1 Pimento Leaf
12 Cinnamon Bark Substitute .2 Sweet Almond Flower
.1 Moss Oliffac 6 Benzaldehyde
29 Eugenol 4 Clove Oil, Rectified
31 Benzyl Acetate 9 Linalool
14 alpha Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Clemenflor
9 Liral 3 Melon Oliffac
4 Bisabolene .1 Coriander Oil Russian
3 Tonka Resinoid 1 Nerol
12 Iso Eugenol Replacement 5 Methyl Diantilis
15 Benzoato Benzila 3 Carnaline
4 Safraleine 22 Linalyl Acetate
8 Thyme ( Thymol Type ) 3 Girofle Clove Oil
53 Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC
306 Di Propileno Glico 2 Tangerinol
14 Ionone Alpha 60
9 Citronellol
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000
6 Raspberry Ketone
72 Geraniol
4 Jasmin Egypt
45 Muguet Base
2 Piper Nigrum - Black Pepper
1 Anisaldehyde
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Geranyl Acetate

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223 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Spicy # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

33 Ethylene Brassylate 2 Leather LWS - 3768


2 Heliotropine 5 Carnation Augaflor 51
1 Mousse De Chenne .1 Rose Oxide BRI
31 Benzyl Salicylate 43 Lemon Oil, Spanish
10 Myrrh Resin Substitute 9 Tangerine California FCC
14 Benzyl Benzoate .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lenic
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 1, 3, 5 - Undecatriene FCC
28 Javanol 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
6 Bisabolene 5 Lysmeral
11 Opoponax Base 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
9 Pepper Oil Black 24 Orange Sweet
6 Cashmeran 3 Benzoin Infusion
45 Iso Eugenol Replacement 6 Oxanone
31 Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Cassia Oliffac
4 Poivre 125 6 Melonyl 86471 VMF
7 Eugenol USP 926 3 Florymoss
5 Caryophelline Beta 6 Benzaldehyde
29 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 29 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
17 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .5 Aldehyde C - 20 Raspberry
3 Pepperwood 3 Jasphene
4 Thymol Crystals 4 Cassione
9 Citronellol - High Purity 2 Fraise 3333 SA
2 Muskylein .1 Coriander Russian Essence
8 Cardamon Oil - Guatemala 26 Linalyl Acetate
322 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
3 Iso - Eugenol
75 Geraniol 60 1,000
2 Sandalore
9 Terpinyl Acetate
14 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
13 Linalol S 927
3 Cascarilla Oil
1 Tea Tree Oil
.1 Methyl Cinnimate
4 Jasmonyl Acetate

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Glen O. Brechbill 224

Oriental Spicy # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Vanillin 5 Carnation Augaflor 51


19 Rhodiascent Extra pure 9 Linalol S 97
8 Opoponax Base .1 Methyl Cinnimate
4 Heliotropine 13 Acetate De Terpinyle
2 Black Agar Givco 215 6 Tonkarinol
45 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 42 Lemon Oil Italian C.P.
3 Bisabolene 1 Cassia Natural Essence
1 Moss Oliffac 3 Costausol
13 Helional 5 Tilanol Super
29 Benzyl Salicylate 27 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
32 Sandela 3 Fir Needle Oil ( Pine Needle Oil )
30 Benzyle Acetate 1 Suderal LT
11 Iso Eugenol Replacement 2 Coriander Oil Russian
.1 Alcohol C - 10 .1 Nonadienal
6 Poivre 125 4 Lavendula Stoechas
8 Benzyl Benzoate 2 Coleus Oil
3 Safraleine 6 Raspberry Ketone
68 Geraniol .1 Ylang Ylang Super Extra
7 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 14 Linalyl Acetate
52 Hydroxycitronellal 98 % .3 Rose - Egypt
4 Caryophyllene Acetate 3 Flavoperine
3 Pepper Oil Black 1 Sweet Pea
11 Lyral .1 Rooibus
6 Myrrh Resinoid Washed .1 Benzoin Abs. - Sumatra
339 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Jeseate
7 Citronellol 4 Benzaldehyde
54 Ionone Intermediate Base
38 Cinnamic Aldehyde
.1 Rose Crystals 1,000
4 Benzyl Iso Eugenol
33 Eugenol
.1 Orris Oil
1 Sage Leaves Oil - France
3 CIS Jasmone
2 Aldeido Seringa Sarl

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225 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fragrance Families

EN'S FRAGRANCES TODAY ARE OPEN TO A MYRIAD OF INTERPRETATIONS based on Lavender, Fougere,
M Oriental, Chypre and Citrus. The Oriental, and Chypre group shares a common theme with women's fra-
grances

MASCULINE NOTES

Lavender Family:

The fragrances are comprised of a union of lavender, or lavandin notes atop a mossy base with a citrusy
freshness. Fougere Royale by Houbigant was the first scent in this class. The Lavender and Fougere families
are similar often incorporating aroma materials that can be found in either theme. Originally it was intended
for women, but soon found its way to the men's side. Having fresh lavender as the main part of the fragrance
there is less room for creative interpretation. Both fresh and spicy themes predominate.

Lavender Fresh

This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas
opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.

Lavender Spicy

Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone
centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide
range of different themes.

Fougere Family:

The French word for Fern is Fougere. Ferns found in nature have very little odor. Generally the concept is
based on herbaceous materials that include Coumarin, Oak Moss, Lavender and Geranium. They are aromatic
often with a camphoraceous, minty, eucalyptus like with an earthy nuance. They are usually found on low-
growing, unobtrusively blossoming plants. Other examples include rosemary, sage as well as peppermint and
lavender. It also can be quite representative of a woodland accord.

Fougere Royale first introduced by Houbigant in 1882 was the start of this family. A composition can uti-

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Glen O. Brechbill 226

lize a wide range of aromatic chemicals as mentioned above including a variety of herbs, geranium and ferns.
The group was originally intended for the feminine market. However, it soon found its way to the men's side of
the fragrance isle. There are four sub-divisions in this group headed by Floral, Fresh, Woody and Sweet themes.

Fougere Fresh

This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh
approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.

Fougere Floral

The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations
of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.

Fougere Woody

This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be
used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and
animal materials.

Fougere Sweet

This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known
today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on
the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized.

Oriental Family:

The oriental family of fine fragrances is shared with the women. Scents in this family include amber, vanil-
la, woods, and resins. Spice materials such as cardamom, nutmeg, caraway, cassia, carnation, cinnamon find
their way in a variety of interesting combinations with a masculine theme. Floral notes such as rose and jas-
mine including the violet are part of the accord. Bay Oil from the West Indies including Pepper, Basil and
Olibanum are popular base materials. The mystery of the orient gives forth to an interesting, and at the same
time delightful group of fragrances.

Oriental Sweet

An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fra-
grances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength.
Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme.

Oriental Spicy

Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous

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227 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.

Chypre Family:

A Chypre fragrance was originally created by Francois Coty, and is based on ingredients originally from the
Mediterranean countries. It emphases the contrast between the citrus freshness of bergamot type top notes and
a mossy patchouli base. Chypre perfumes tend to be strong, and aromatic. In the men's side of the family there
are five main groups that have a woody, leathery, coniferous, fresh and green themes. There is a wide range of
accords that can be achieved by combining masculine aroma notes in daring ways. It is reminiscent of those
who love to explore, and enjoy the fresh outdoors.

Chypre Woody

This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which
smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and
warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like
note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly
fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and
can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.

Chypre Leather

Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include
Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including
Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of
course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS - 3768, and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great
care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that
includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling
strip well over a month.

Chypre Coniferous

A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy,
herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately
resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes
are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes.

Chypre Fresh

A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have
a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.

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Glen O. Brechbill 228

Chypre Green

The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often
Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.

Citrus Family:

This is predominately a man's group of fragrances. Often citrus notes are combined in fine floral fruity
accords to strengthen the top note of this group of fragrances. They are predominately light and fresh with an
overwhelming citrus note such as bergamot, orange, lemon, lime, petitgrain, grapefruit, tangerine, and man-
darin. Citrus fragrances are refreshing very popular in the summer.

Citrus Floral:

A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note based on the above.

Citrus Fantasy

A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of
many different citrus notes to produce different effects.

Citrus Fresh

A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another.
A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.

Citrus Green

A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum
Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green
note aromas.

Ozone Family:

Oceanic, ozone, watery are an example of a new group of fragrances. Often they are described as things
you can't bottle naturally like ocean spray, mountain air, or freshly laundered clothes. There is a wide range of
fragrant ingredient materials available as outlined below:

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229 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Herbaceous Fragrance Chemicals

Alfania Base # 38228 If a compound based on alfalfa most likely green or herbal.
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Mild herbaceous reminiscent of many types of flowers.
Anisyl Formate Sweet herbaceous green somewhat dry odor.
Armoise Oil Herbaceous green.

Basil Oil Commores Fresh, somewhat herbaceous.


Benzcinimal Powerful sweet herbaceous, cinnamon spicy odor.
Benzyl Formate Powerful fruity green herbaceous.

Camomile German Typically sweet, and herbaceous.


Camomile Moroccan Similar to above and below except for a rose, honey.
Camomile Roman Characteristic odor of the flowers, fresh, sweet herbaceous.
Carvacrol Penetrating dry medicinal phenolic herbaceous odor.
Carvone Laveo Warm herbaceous bread like, reminiscent of spearmint oil.
CIS 3 Hexenyl Benzoate Mild, but tenacious green herbaceous woody odor.
Cornmint Terpenes Warm herbaceous bread like, spearmint like.
Coumarin Sweet, herbaceous warm somewhat spicy odor, dilution - hay like.
Cuminic Aldehyde Pungent green herbaceous odor.
Cyclo Galbonate Strong herbaceous green.

Di Hydro Anethol Powerful sweet herbaceous.


Di Hydro Cuminyl Alcohol Warm, herbaceous slightly woody odor.
Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl Warm herbaceous floral.
Di Methyl Hydro Quinone Warm herbaceous, nut tobacco like.

Ethyl Methacrylate Very diffusive and penetrating grassy herbaceous odor.

Floropal Herbal fresh floral green.


Flove Oil Intensely sweet, coumarin hay like heavy herbaceous odor.

Galbex 183 Woody green herbaceous odor.


Gamma Heptalactone Sweet herbaceous nut like.
Gamma Octalactone Sweet herbaceous coconut like.

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Glen O. Brechbill 230

Geranium Moroccan Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor.
Gyrane A diffusive herbal green type odor.

Herbonal A fresh garden herb like fragrance.


Herboxane A faint herbal odor with a sweet dry out.
Hexyl Cyclo Pentanone # 405 Powerful and diffusive dry floral green herbaceous odor.
Hexyl Salicylate Faint sweet herbaceous floral odor.

Iso Butyl Caproate Mild herbaceous woody, but over all fruity oily odor.
Iso Butyl Salicylate Sweet harsh herbaceous floral.
Iso Nonyl Alcohol Powerful oily herbaceous, dilution - sweet odor.
Iso Plugeol Minty herbaceous reminiscent of the first smell of tuberose.

Jasmal Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor.


Jessemal Herbaceous floral jasmin.

Labdanum Abs. A sweet herbaceous recalling ambergris, slightly animal.


Laveo Menthyl Acetate Mild and sweet slightly fruity herbaceous minty odor.
Lavandin Grosso Sweet balsamic herbaceous.
Lavender Oil Spiked Typically sweet, balsamic and herbaceous.
Lie De Vin Select Harsh herbaceous floral type odor.

Marigold Abs. Intensely bitter herbaceous odor.


Menthanyl Acetate Fresh piney citrusy somewhat herbaceous.
Methyl Anisate Sweet herbaceous delicately floral odor.
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Powerful sweet herbaceous cinnamon spicy.
Methyl Heptyl Ketone Fruity floral, slightly fruity and herbaceous odor.
Methyl Jasmonate Powerful herbaceous floral.
Methyl Lavender Ketone Sweet floral lavender.

Ocimene Warh herbaceous and very diffusive odor.


Origanum Oil Possesses a tar like herbaceous, but very refreshing odor.
Orris Resinoid A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.
Ortho Methyl Cinnamic Ald Powerful sweet herbaceous woody camphoraceous, spicy.
Oxaspirane Powerful herbal minty camphoraceous.

Patchouli Dark Extremely rich sweet herbaceous aromatic spicy woody.


Patchouli MD Very sweet rich spicy aromatic herbaceous balsamic odor.
Patchone Extremely dry woody camphoraceous, patchouli like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.
Phytia Abs. Powerful floral herbaceous balsamic, not sweet.
Piconia Woody, patchouli earthy like.

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231 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Rosemary Oil Woody herbaceous, reminiscent of spike lavender oil.

Sage Oil Clary Sweet herbaceous tenacious odor.


Sage Oil Dalmation Fresh strong warm spicy herbaceous, camphoraceous.
Stemone Green slightly herbaceous odor.

Taget Abs. Intensely herbaceous green with a sweet fruity undertone.


Talin Fruity herbal odor of anise, basil and fennel.
Tansy Oil Almost sharp and spicy dry herbaceous odor.
Terpinyl Acetate Mildly herbaceous sweet and refreshing.
Tepyl Acetate Oily herbaceous floral, and sweet earthy odor.
Thyme Oil Red Rich sweet powerful, warm herbaceous spicy.
Thymol Crystals Powerful sweet medicinal herbaceous warm odor.
Tonka Beans Abs. Sweet herbaceous slightly coumarin.
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate Powerful herbaceous green, and fresh woody odor.
T M Cyclo Hexanol Acetate Mild and sweet minty herbaceous.

Veltonal Strong herbaceous type odor.


Verdyl Propionate Fresh herbal note reminiscent of basil oil.
Vetchouli Green herbaceous odor.
Violet Abs. French Strong herbaceous floral violet.
Violet Abs. Rue Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the french oil.
Violet Colorless 54.5219 Herbaceous floral odor of the violet.

Wormwood Oil Intensely herbaceous green warm and deep.

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Glen O. Brechbill 232

Masculine Fragrance’s - Lavender Fresh

LAVENDER FRESH

This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas
opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.

Top Lavender 7 %

Orange 5 %, Beramot 4 % - Fruity, Green Notes Herbaceous

Basil 1 %, Rose

Middle Jasmin 3 %

Amyl Salicylate 2 % Lilac 1 %, Carnation 4 %, Rose 10 % Floral


Terpinyl Acetate 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 % Pine 5 %, Violet 1 %, Muguet 2 %

Vanilla 3 %
Base
Tonka 1 %, Benzoin 1 %, Musk 4 % Sweet

Labdanum .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate .5 %
Benzyl Salicylate .5 %
Hercolyn - D 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

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233 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lavender Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Ionone Beta


5 English Leather Base 11 Citrus Lavender Base
3 Iso Bornyl Crystals .1 Birch Tar Rectified
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 23 Citronellol
11 Coumarin .4 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
6 Salicylate De Benzyle 14 Bergamot Substitute
18 Vanisal 1 Lyral
7 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 3 Rosemary Oil Tunisian
4 Iso E Super 14 Lianlool
3 Musk Emeressence 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
25 Amyl Salicylate 3 Diola
.1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 11 Leather Base FM 1064
6 Black Agar Givco .1 Rose Oxide L
9 Iso De Hydro Lavandual 28 Linalyl Acetate
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Herbonal
8 Kephalis .1 Aldehyde C - 8
19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
8 Terpineol Prime .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
38 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Rose Acetate
33 Hercolin - D 1 Massada
26 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol .1 Nonadienal
6 Jessemal 1 Rosimariff
5 Labdanum Resinoid .1 Leaf Alcohol
28 Fir Needle Oil Canadian 3 Sage Sclarel - Russia
9 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur .1 Costus Oliffac
98 Geraniol
6 Sandela
285 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
7 Cedrenyl Acetate
1 Benzophenone
7 Lyral
1 Mahagonate
56 Lavender Oil Std.
4 Eugenol
18 Terpinyl Acetate
36 Galaxolide 50

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Glen O. Brechbill 234

Lavender Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Benzyl Benzoate 22 Acetate De Terpinyle


9 Coumane .1 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
33 Vanillina .1 Nonadienal
5 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 7 beta - Ionone
11 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 3 Santalyl Acetate
16 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Laurico
28 Musk Ambrette Substitute 5 Hyacinth PP
5 Cedraclaire 1 Drywood Augaflor
4 Benzylsalicylate 48 Orange - Belize
.1 Iso Propylene Quinoline 53 Lavender Fleurs 40/42 % FCC
52 Hedione 3 Santalyl Acetate
.1 Earth 2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Musk Gazalle 1 Suderal LT
43 Hercolyn - D 3 Sage Oil Clary
8 Levanalis .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauryl
28 Ethyl Vanllin 5 Verdyl Acetate
12 Lilial .1 Rose Oxide L
47 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Petilyn
9 Jasmin Province Base 4 Bergamot C.P.
22 Citronelol 2 Vertocinth
1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 3 Khovane
3 Rosalyptus
8 Lavender Oliffac
4 Cedrenyl Acetate 1,000
75 Geraniol
1 Pelargene
304 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Mousse De Chenne
13 Methyl Ionone Beta
6 Tonalid II
5 English Leather Base
1 Benzophenone
.1 Phenylacetaldehyde
19 Amyl Salicylate
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
8 Lindenol
3 Lavandulas

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235 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lavender Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Iso E Super 1 Carnation Leaves Essence


33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Sage Oil, Dalmatian
8 Benzoato Benzila 19 Terpinyl Acetate
13 Cedro Virginia 6 Ethyl Geranate
26 Vanilina 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Alicate 9 Linalool
.1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 2 Carnaline
7 Benzyle Salicylate 4 Verdyl Acetate
4 Iso Bornyl Crystals 1 Costus Oliffac
3 Benzoin Resinoid .1 Aldehyde Supra
22 Amyl Salicylate 52 Orange Oil, Sweet
9 Fir Needle Oil 1 Cyclal - C
34 Benzyl Acetate 17 Fir Needle Canada
42 Hercolyn - D 6 Verdyl Propionate
45 Carnation Base .2 Iralia
17 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Costus Oliffac
4 Tonka Resinoid 27 Linalyl Acetate
2 Woodynol - I 4 Jessemal
39 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Geranyl Acetate
6 Rhodia Scent 1 Petilyn
5 Citronellol 1 Cyclemone A
3 Hydro Carbon Resin SB .1 Folione
4 Di Methyl Octnaol 1 Cedrafix
5 Musk Gx 50 % DEP 3 Rosemary Spain
21 Lyral .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
14 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
295 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
65 Geraniol 1,000
6 Tonalid I
11 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
6 Hexyl Salicylate
57 Lavender 40/52
1 Styrallyl Acetate
.2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Diola

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236 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Lavender Spicy

LAVENDER SPICY

Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone
centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide
range of different themes.

Top Lavender 6 %

Petitgrain 2 %, Bergamot 4 %, Clary Sage 1 % Fresh Herbaceous

Lemon 3 %, Basil 1 %

Middle Rose 5 %

Vetiver 1 % Lily of the Valley 4 %, Carnation 3 %, Jasmin 5 % Floral


Terpinyl Acetate - Trace
Cinnamic Alcohol - Trace Geranium 2 %, Fern 1 %, Fir 3 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Patchouli 2 %
Base
Musk 2 %, Sandalwood 4 %, Leather 2 % Sweet Mossy

Labdanum 1 %, Cedar 3 %, Amber - Trace, Moss - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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237 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lavender Spicy # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

22 Benzyl Benzoate 12 Citrus Lavender Base


5 Cedryl Acetate 5 Sage Oil, Solvia Officia
3 Benzophenone 34 Lemon Oil South African
11 Amber Substitute 3 Caraway ( Carvi )
12 Patchouli Oil MD 22 Linalool
28 Benzyl Salicylate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Grapefruit White
9 Iso & Super 3 Acetate De Terpenyle
3 Alcool Cinamico 62 Lavender French Alpine
11 Coumane 6 Bergamot Oil - Ivory Coast
22 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Verdyl Acetate
29 Cedarwood Himalayan 3 Green Ivy Givco 168
7 Labdanum Resinoid 50 %/DPG 9 Fir Needle Oil Chinese
16 Carnation Base .1 Rose Oxide L
29 Sandalwood Mysore 3 Dipteryx Odorata
14 Ionone Beta Coeur 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
5 Cade Oil 7 Methyl Amyl Ketone
3 Claryfol 4 Herbon
4 Diola 21 Linalyl Acetate
7 Citronellol 3 Syringa
12 Organic Shampoo Base 1 Methyl Chavicol
53 Benzyle Acetate 5 Vetiver Acetate Java
24 Eugenol 7 Ocimene PQ
39 Geraniol
2 Verdantiol
319 Di Propileno Glico 1,000
6 Turpntine Oil Steam Distilled
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Koavonne
2 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
17 Petitgrain Bigarade Tree Oil - Paraguay
9 Hexyle Salicylate
3 Suderal LT
1 Cirtronellyl Acetate
1 Safraleine

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Glen O. Brechbill 238

Lavender Spicy # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoato 1 Citronellyl Acetate


5 Cedrol Liquid 65 1 Bisabolene
3 Benzophenone 12 Citrus Lavender Base
11 Amberwood 5 Sage Oil, Solvia Officia
12 Patchone 34 Lemon Oil South African
28 Benzyl Salicylate 3 Caraway ( Carvi )
54 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 19 Linalool
9 Iso & Super .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Alcool Cinamico 8 Grapefruit White
11 Coumane 3 Acetate De Terpenyle
27 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 62 Lavender French Alpine
24 Cedarwood Oil Texas Light 6 Bergamot Oil - Ivory Coast
7 Labdanum Resinoid 5 Verdyl Acetate
16 Carnation Base 1 Green Ivy Givco 168
29 Sandalwood Mysore 11 Fir Needle Oil Chinese
14 Ionone Beta Coeur .1 Rose Oxide L
5 Leather LWS - 3768 3 Dipteryx Odorata
3 Claryfol 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
4 Diola 7 Methyl Amyl Ketone
5 Citronellol 750 4 Herbon
14 Heidera Base 21 Linalyl Acetate
53 MDJ 3 Syringa
21 Eugenol 1 Methyl Chavicol
42 Geraniol 5 Vetiver Acetate Java
2 Veraflor 7 Ocimene PQ
320 Di Propileno Glico
6 Turpntine Oil - Viet Nam
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric 1,000
4 Kephalis
1 Sandalore
15 Petitgrain Bigarade Tree Oil - Paraguay
9 Hexyle Salicylate
5 Suderal HT

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239 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lavender Spicy # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

10 Benzyl Benzoato 1 Bisabolene


5 Cedrol Liquid 65 9 Citrus Lavender Base
3 Benzophenone 5 Sage Oil French
11 Amber Substitute 31 Lemon Oil South African
12 Patchouly Madagascar 3 Caraway Oil Holland
26 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 22 Linalool
45 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
9 Iso & Super 5 Grapefruit White
3 Alcool Cinamico 3 Acetate De Terpenyle
14 Coumane 65 Lavender French Alpine
21 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 6 Bergamot Oil - Ivory Coast
27 Cedarwood Himalayan 5 Verdyl Acetate
5 Labdanum Resinoid 50 %/DPG 3 Green Ivy Givco 168
18 Carnation Base 9 Fir Needle Oil Chinese
31 Sandalwood Mysore .1 Rose Oxide L
16 Ionone Beta Coeur 3 Dipteryx Odorata
5 Leather LWS - 3768 5 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
1 Claryfol 10 Methyl Amyl Ketone
4 Diola 4 Herbon
7 Citronellol 850 21 Linalyl Acetate
10 Organic Shampoo Base 2 Syringa
50 Benzyl Acetate 1 Methyl Chavicol
24 Eugenol 6 Vetiver Acetate
42 Geraniol 60 7 Amyl Salicylate
2 Oncidal
331 Di Propileno Glico
6 Turpntine Oil - West Virginia 1,000
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Kephalis
2 Chandanone
17 Petitgrain Bigarade Tree Oil - Paraguay
9 Hexyle Salicylate
3 Suderal LT
1 Citronellyl Acetate

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Glen O. Brechbill 240

Masculine Fragrance’s - Fougere Fresh

FOUGERE FRESH

This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh
approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.

Top Bergamot 5 %

Lavender 7 %, Anise 1 %, Clay Sage 1.5 % Fresh Herbaceous

Lemon 3 %, Rosemary .5 %, Artemisia 1 %

Middle Cedar 3 %

Vetiver 3 % Geranium 2 %, Jasmin 4 %, Rose 6 % Floral Woody


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Sandalwood 3 %, Carnation 4 %

Base Patchouli 3 %

Amber .5 %, Oakmoss - Trace, Tonka 6 % Mossy Leathery

Musk 3 %, Leather 1 %
Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

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241 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

53 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 1 Guaiyl Acetate


22 Benzoato Benzila 19 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Lichen ( Moss ) 4 Anisyl Alcohol
3 Cedrenyl Acetate 2 Genievre Basil Oil Yugoslavia
5 Amber Base 3 Citronellyl Acetate
47 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Romarin Afrique de Nord
29 Patchouli Dark .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
8 English Leather Base .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
31 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 1 Peppermint Oil - American
39 Benzyle Acetate 4 Methyl Camomile
28 Galaxolide 50 25 Linalol
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 1 Carnaline
27 Jessemal 4 Vetiver Acetate
11 Organic Shampoo Base 38 Lemon Oil Argentina
4 Tonka Feve Resinoide 6 Methyl Chavicole
12 Di Methyl Ionone 8 Anethole
26 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 16 Linalyl Acetate
3 Eucalyptus Radiata 1 Methyl Cedrylone
4 Herbaflorat .1 Rose Oxide L
6 Citronellol 750 3 Sandela
5 Morillol 2 Pepper, White
38 Vetiver Extender 4 Syringa
6 Serenolide 5 Rhodiascent
3 Benzophenone 3 Tonkarinol
12 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 9 Methyl Ionone Beta
13 Fir Needle Oil Canadian 5 Claryfol
41 Geraniol
6 Hawthorn
307 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
4 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
3 Green Ivy Givco
8 Citrus Lavender Base
10 Sage Spain
.3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico

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Glen O. Brechbill 242

Fougere Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

53 Coumarin Substitute 4 Anisyl Alcohol


18 Benzoato Benzila 2 Genievre Basil Oil Yugoslavia
1 Mousse De Metre 1 Citronellyl Acetate
6 Cedrenyl Acetate 5 Romarin Afrique de Nord
5 Amber Base .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
46 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
20 Patchouli Oil - Indonesia 1 Peppermint Oil - American
10 English Leather Base 6 Hexyl Salicylate
31 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 26 Linalol
44 Acetato De Benzyl 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
28 Galaxolide 50 4 Vetiveryl Acetate
19 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 33 Lemon Oil Argentina
22 Jessemal 6 Methyl Chavicole
11 Organic Shampoo Base 8 Anethole
6 Tonka Feve Resinoide 17 Linalyl Acetate
10 Di Methyl Ionone 1 Methyl Cedrylone
24 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Oxide L
3 Eucalyptus Radiata 3 Santalol
4 Herbaflorat 2 Pepper Oil India
8 Citronellol 4 Syringa
7 Morillol 5 Rhodiascent Extra Pure
30 Vetiver Extender 3 Tonkarinol
8 Cashmeran 9 y - Irone
1 Rose Crystals 5 Claryfol
12 Ionone Beta
15 Fir Needle Oil Canadian
36 Geraniol 99 % 1,000
6 Hawthorn
316 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
3 Green Ivy Givco
13 Citrus Lavender Base
10 Sage Spain
.3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
1 Guaiyl Acetate
19 Phenylethylalcohol

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243 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

43 Cou Marin 4 Anisyl Alcohol


22 Benzoato Benzila 2 Genievre Basil Oil Yugoslavia
1 Moss Olifac 1 Citronellyl Acetate
6 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 5 Romarin Afrique de Nord
5 Amber Base .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
29 Patchouli Oil MD 1 Peppermint Oil - American
10 English Leather Base 16 Alicate
31 Benzyl Salicylate 24 Linalol
44 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 2 Iso Eugenol
28 Traseolide 4 Vetiveryl Acetate
15 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 35 Lemon Oil Argentina
22 Jessemal 6 Methyl Chavicole
11 Organic Shampoo Base 8 Anethole
3 Tonka Feve Resinoide 17 Linalyl Acetate
10 Di Methyl Ionone 1 Methyl Cedrylone
24 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Rose Oxide L
3 Eucalyptus Radiata 3 Santalol
4 Herbaflorat 2 Pepper, White
8 Citronellol 4 Syringa
5 Morillol 5 Rhodiascent
38 Vetiver Extender 3 Tonkarinol
6 Serenolide 9 Ionone Beta
3 Benzophenone 1 Claryfol
12 Methyl Ionone Beta
10 Alpha Pinene
44 Geraniol 1,000
9 Aubepine ( Anisic Aldehyde )
315 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Sandalore
3 Green Ivy Givco
13 Citrus Lavender Base
10 Sage Morocco
.3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
1 Guaiyl Acetate
13 Pheny Ethyl Alcohol

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Glen O. Brechbill 244

Masculine Fragrance’s - Fougere Floral

FOUGERE FLORAL

The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations
of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.

Top Artemesia 3 %

Lavender 7 %, Green Notes 1 %, Laurel 2 % Fresh Herbaceous

Rosemary 1 %, Petitgrain 3 %, Basil 1 %, Aldehydes 1 %,

Middle Rose 4 %

Oncidal .5 % Geranium 1 %, Carnation 4 %, Fern 1.5 % Herbaceous Floral


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Green Ivy Givco .5 % Jasmin 4 %, Lily 1 %
Vetiver 4 %
Moss - Trace
Base
Amber .5 %, Labdanum 2 %, Cedar 2 %, Fir 1 % Mossy Powdery

Tonka 6 %, Styrax .5 %, Benzoin 1 %


Herbs:
Armoise, Basil, Bucchu, Camphor, Cedar Leaf, Chamomile, Eucalyptus, Hay, Hyssop, Juniper Berry,
Lavandin, Lavender, Oregano, Parsley, Pennyroyal, Peppermint, Pine, Rosemary, Sage Clary, Spearmint,
Spruce, Tansy, Tarragon, Thyme.

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %

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245 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Floral # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Evernyl ( Lichen ) 4 Aubepine


55 Coumarin Extra Pure 10 Oak Base
3 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 8 Laurel Oil
1 Amber Base 5 Carnaline
38 Musk 50 DPG 7 Methyl Lavender Ketone
21 Benzyl Salicylate 6 Fir Balsam Artesence
8 Styrax Resinoid 1 Lilie
23 Cedar, Leaves / Toya 5 Dianthanol
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 31 Petitgrain Mandarin Oil
19 Labdanum Resinoid 3 Methyl Chavicole
42 Benzyl Acetate 1 Terpinyl Acetate
9 Benzoin Base 4 Rosemary Tunisia
1 Eucalyptol 97 7 Verdyl Propionate
4 Herbaflorat .5 Pomarose
38 Vetiver Extender 1 Caryophelline
10 Fir Needle Oil Canadian 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde
1 Rose Crystals 27 Artemesia
23 Cedarwood Oil Atlas 5 Verdyl Acetate
6 Diola 3 Scennal
32 Eugenol 4 Sage Leaves Oil - France
8 Citronellol 5 Eugenyl Acetate
1 Herboxane 2 Citronellyl Acetate
13 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Iridales
29 Geraniol 98
4 Oncidal
306 Di Propileno Glico 1,000
3 Koavonne
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
21 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye
5 Veraflor
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Sandalore
9 Hexyl Salicylate
1 Styrallyl Acetate
72 Lavender Dalmatian
.1 Phenyl Acetaldehyde

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Glen O. Brechbill 246

Fougere Floral # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Moss Oliffac .1 Phenyl Acetaldehyde


50 Coumarin Substitute 8 Aubepine
3 Acetyl Iso Eugenol 6 Oak Base
5 Amber Base 8 Laurel Oil
30 Musk 50 DEP 5 Carnaline
22 Benzylsalicylate 7 Methyl Lavender Ketone
3 Styrax Resin 6 Fir Balsam Artesence
23 Cedar, Leaves / Toya 3 Amyl Salicylate
41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Methyl Diantilis
19 Labdanum Resinoide 27 Petitgrain Mandarin Oil
35 MDJ 3 Methyl Chavicole
9 Benzoin Base 1 Terpinyl Acetate
5 Eucalyptus Oil 2 Rosemary Tunisia
4 Herbaflorat 7 Verdyl Propionate
38 Vetiver Extender .5 Diola
10 Fir Needle Oil Chinese 1 Iso - Eugenol
1 Rosone 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde
31 Cedarwood Oil Port Orford 31 Artemesia
6 Lavandonat 5 Verdyl Acetate
32 Eugenol 3 Stemone
8 Citronellol 4 Sage Leaves Oil - France
1 Herboxane 5 Eugenyl Acetate
13 Methyl Ionone Gamma 2 Citronellyl Acetate
29 Geraniol 98 1 Iridales
4 Oncidal
303 Di Propileno Glico
3 Koavonne 1,000
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
21 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye
5 Verdantiol
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Sandalore
9 Hexyl Salicylate
1 Styrallyl Acetate
72 Lavender Dalmatian

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247 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Floral # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Moss Oliffac .1 Phenyl Acetaldehyde


58 Coumarin Substitute 8 Anisicaldehyde
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 6 Oak Base
5 Amberwood 8 Laurel Oil
34 Musk 50 DEP 5 Carnation Augaflor 23
19 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China 7 Lavender Oliffac
3 Styrax Coeur 6 Fir Balsam Artesence
23 Cedarwood Oil Texas Light 3 Scennal
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Methyl Diantilis
15 Labdanum Resinoid 24 Petitgrain Mandarin Oil
42 Benzyle Acetate 3 Methyl Chavicole
9 Benzoin Resinoid 1 Terpinyl Acetate
3 Alpha Fenchyl Alcohol 4 Rosemary Tunisia
4 Herbaflorat 7 Verdyl Propionate
40 Vetiver Extender .5 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
8 Fir Needle Oil Austria 1 Eugenyl Acetate
1 Rose Crystals 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde
23 Cedrenyl Acetate 32 Artemesia
6 Lavandonat 5 Verdyl Acetate
27 Eugenol 100 % 3 Amyl Salicylate
8 Citronellol 750 4 Sage Leaves Oil - France
1 Herboxane 5 Eugenyl Acetate
18 Methyl Ionone Gamma 2 Citronellyl Acetate
25 Geraniol 98 1 Iridales
2 Veraflor
307 Di Propileno Glico
1 Koavonne 1,000
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
21 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye
5 Veraflor
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
4 Sandalore
9 Hexyl Salicylate
1 Styrallyl Acetate
72 Lavender Oil 40/42

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Glen O. Brechbill 248

FOUGERE FLORAL

Top Lavender 7 %

Rosemary 2 %, Bergamot 4 %, Petitgrain 1.5 % Fresh Herbaceous

Laurel 2 %, Basil 5 %, Lemon 5 %

Middle Geranium 2 %

Oncidal 1 % Carnation 3 %, Rosewood - Trace, Jasmi 4 % Floral


Green Ivy 1 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Cedarwood 2 %, Fern 4 %

Base Moss - Trace

Musk 2 %, Amber - Trace, Tonka 5 % Mossy Ambery

Styrax 1 %, Labdanum 2 %, Leather 1.5 %, Benzoin .75 %

Bases - English Leather, Lilac, Citrus Lavender, Carnation, Organic Shampoo

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 3 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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249 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Floral # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Cade Oil 13 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol


2 Benzophenone 3 Methyl Geranate
32 Benzoato Benzila 9 Citrus Lavender Base
1 Amberwood 15 Verdyl Propionate
1 Mousse De Chenne 3 Rosemary Tunisia
33 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Cedryl Acetate 50 % 13 Organic Shampoo Base
48 Coumarin 4 Methyl Cedrylone
11 English Leather Base 3 Pepper White
21 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
5 Eucalyptus Globulos 70 3 Vetyver Acetate Haiti
26 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 75 Lavender True Organic
.1 Iso Propyl Quinoline .3 Piconia
5 Di Isopropyl Phenol 4 Sage Oil Dalmatian
12 Benteine 8 Methyl Ionone Beta
11 Lilac Base 7 Verdyl Acetate
15 Lyral 11 Terpineol Prime
8 Lilie 4 Methyl Chavocle
.1 Lavender Abs. 14 Linalool
15 Vertenex 6 Methyl Lavender Ketone
9 Oncidal 27 Linalyl Acetate
18 Carnation Base .1 Folione
9 Methyl Ionone Beta 3 Methyl Heptone Ketone
13 Citronellol 850 - IFF 5 Veraflor
13 Carnation Base 1 Stemone
7 Beta Ionone R 4 Laurel ( Bay Laurel )
17 Geraniol
13 Labdanum Resinoid
9 Styrax Pure 1,000
334 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Diola
7 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
1 Methyl Camomile
35 Hedione
7 Herbenal
9 Green Ivy Givco 168
4 Drywood Augaflor
6 Citronellyl Acetate
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Glen O. Brechbill 250

Fougere Floral # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Birch Tar Oil 6 Citronellyl Acetate


3 Benzophenone 13 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
28 Benzoato Benzila 3 Methyl Geranate
1 Amberwood ABQ 5583 8 Citrus Lavender Base
1 Mousse De Metre 19 Verdyl Propionate
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Rosemary Oil Spanish
7 Cedryl Acetate Crystals .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
51 Coumarin 12 Organic Shampoo Base
11 English Leather Base 1 Methyl Cedrylone
25 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 3 Pepper White
3 Eucalyptus Globulos 70 .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
22 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Vetyver Acetate Haiti
.1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 72 Lavender True Organic
5 2, 6 Xylenol .3 Piconia
12 Benteine 7 Sage Oil Dalmatian
11 Lilac Base 14 Methyl Ionone Beta
15 Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal 7 Verdyl Acetate
8 Lilie 9 Terpineol ( Perfumery Grade )
.1 Tobacco Absolute 4 Methyl Chavocle
17 Vertenex - IBCH Acetate 11 Linalol S 97
9 Oncidal 6 Methyl Lavender Ketone
18 Carnation Base 30 Linalyl Acetate
7 Beta Ionone R .1 Nonadienal
15 Citronellol Pure 3 Methyl Heptone Ketone
18 Carnation Base 7 Sandela
7 Beta Ionone R 1 Stemone
15 Geraniol 98 % 2 Laurel ( Bay Laurel )
9 Labdanum Resinoide
9 Styrax Pure
325 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Diola
7 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
1 Methyl Camomile
37 Hedione
5 Herbenal
11 Green Ivy Givco 168
2 Drywood Augaflor

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251 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Floral # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Birch Tar Oil 2 Drywood Augaflor


6 Benzophenone 6 Citronellyl Acetate
28 Benzoato Benzila 13 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Amberwood ABQ 5583 1 Methyl Geranate
1 Mousse De Metre 12 Citrus Lavender Base
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 23 Verdyl Propionate
7 Cedryl Acetate Crystals 3 Rosemary Tunisia
48 Coumarin .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
11 English Leather Base 13 Organic Shampoo Base
21 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 2 Methyl Cedrylone
5 Eucalyptus Globulos 70 1 Pepper White
26 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
.1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 5 Vetyver Acetate Haiti
5 2, 6 Xylenol 70 Lavender True Organic
12 Benteine .3 Patchone
11 Lilac Base 4 Sage Oil Dalmatian
15 Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal 8 Methyl Ionone Beta
8 Lilie 7 Verdyl Acetate
.1 Tobacco Absolute 11 Syringa
15 Vertenex - IBCH Acetate 2 Methyl Chavocle
9 Oncidal 14 Linalool
18 Carnation Base 8 Methyl Lavender Ketone
7 Beta Ionone R 27 Linalyl Acetate
15 Citronellol .1 Violet Leaves
18 Carnation Base 3 Methyl Heptone Ketone
7 Beta Ionone R 5 Veraflor
15 Geraniol Pur 1 Scennal
13 Labdanum Resinoid 4 Laurel ( Bay Laurel )
9 Styrax Pure
319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Diola 1,000
7 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
1 Methyl Camomile
35 Hedione
7 Herbenal
11 Green Ivy Givco 168

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Glen O. Brechbill 252

Masculine Fragrance’s - Fougere Woody

FOUGERE WOODY

This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be
used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and
animal materials.

Top Lavender 6 %

Oncidal .5 % Bergamot 4 %, Anise 1 %, Basil 1.5 %, Lemon 3 % Fresh Herbaceous


Veraflor .5 %
Clary Sage 1 %, Artemesia 1 %, Petitgrain 2 %

Middle Cedarwood 4 %

Amyl Salicylate 1 % Fir Needle Oil 3 %, Jasmin 1.5 %, Carnation 1 % Floral Woody
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %
Iso E Super 3 % Fern 1 %, Pine 3 %, Rose 2 %, Violet 4 %

Base Sandalwood 5 %

Tree Moss - Trace, Vanilla .5 %, Vetiver 3 %, Tonka 4 % Ambery Mossy

Labdanum 1 %, Amber - Trace, Benzoin .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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253 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Woody # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzyl Benzoate .1 Vertimoss


37 Coumane 5 Citronellyl Acetate
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 17 Petitgrain Citronee Oil
5 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Amber Substitute 4 Ocimene PQ
4 Vanillin .1 Cedarwood Essence
51 Sandalwood Givco 203 6 Herbavert
18 Benzyle Salicylate 5 Drywood Augaflor
7 Alpha Pinene 1 Ocimum Basilicum L.
6 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Rose Oxide L
1 Labdanum Resinoid 70 Lavender Bourbon
14 Vetamber ( Kephalis ) 8 Methyl Cedrylone
9 Amyl Salicylate .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
6 Oncidal 24 Linalol 925
35 Vetiver Extender 1 Pinhero Anao
1 Bois de Rose 3 Methyl Chavicole
11 Organic Shampoo Base 5 Levenalis
16 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur .1 Folione
6 Patchouli Crude 4 Clary Sage
5 Beta Pinene 1 Trimofix
3 Ethyl, Vanillin 16 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
8 Fir Needle Oil 3 Woodinyl Acetate
3 Citronellol 2 Clove Bud Oil
15 MDJ 6 Artemisia Vulgaris Moroccan
331 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Fir Needle Oil Canadian
41 Cedarwood Oil - US 4 Cedryl Acetate
5 Anethole USP .1 Benzoin Abs.
22 Geraniol 60 % .1 Horseradish Oil
3 Dihydro Cyclacet
9 Ionone Beta Coeur
10 Iso E Super 1,000
9 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
29 Iso Bornyl Acetate
32 Lemon Oil Washed
3 Lyrame
7 Phenylethylalcohol

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Glen O. Brechbill 254

Fougere Woody # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

10 Benzyl Benzoate 19 Petitgrain Citronee Oil


33 Coumane .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 8 Ocimene PQ
5 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .1 Cedarwood Essence
1 Amber Substitute 6 Herbavert
4 Vanisal 2 Drywood Augaflor
49 Sandalwood Extender 3 Ocimum Basilicum L.
23 Benzyle Salicylate .1 Rose Oxide L
5 Alpha Pinene 62 Lavender Oil 40/42
4 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 8 Methyl Cedrylone
1 Labdanum Resinoid .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
14 Iso E Super 28 Linalool
9 Amyl Salicylate 1 Alpha Pinene
8 Oncidal 1 Rosemary Oil Maroc
38 Vetiver Extender 5 Levenalis
1 Bois de Rose .1 Folione
11 Organic Shampoo Base 4 Clary Sage USA Oil
9 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 2 Trimofix
6 Patchouli Oil MD 17 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
5 Alpha Pinene 8 Woodinyl Acetate
3 Ethyl Vanillin 2 Clove Stem Oil
5 Fir Needle Oil 6 Artemisia Vulgaris Moroccan
3 Citronellol 3 Massada
13 Benzyl Acetate FCC 4 Cedryl Acetate 50 %
346 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Benzoin Abs.
32 Cedarwood Oil - US .1 Javanol
5 Anethole USP
24 Geraniol 60 %
1 Hexyle Salicylate 1,000
8 Methyl Ionone Beta
8 Iso E Super
13 Eugenol
29 Iso Bornyl Acetate
32 Lemon Oil California
3 Hidroxicitronelal
10 Phenyle Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Vertimoss
3 Geranium Oil Egyptian
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255 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Woody # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

22 Benzyl Benzoate 19 Petitgrain Citronee Oil


34 Rhodiascent .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 8 Ocimene PQ
3 Benzoin Siam Resinoid .1 Cedarwood Essence
1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 6 Herbavert
4 Vanisal 5 Drywood Augaflor
47 Sandec 3 Ocimum Basilicum L.
23 Benzyle Salicylate .1 Rose Oxide Inactive
7 Alpha Pinene 64 Lavender Chinese
4 Cedraclaire 8 Methyl Cedrylone
1 Labdanum Resinoid .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
14 ( Kephalis ) 24 Linalol 925
6 Amyl Salicylate 1 Pinhero Anao
5 Oncidal 3 Methyl Chavicole
35 Vetiver Extender 5 Diola
1 Palmarosa Oil .1 Folione
11 Organic Shampoo Base 4 Clary Sage Oil Spanish
22 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 1 Sandalore
6 Patchouli Oil Indonesia 16 Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
5 Beta Pinene 3 Woodinyl Acetate
3 Ethyl Vanillin 2 Clove Bud Oil
8 Fir Needle Oil 6 Artemisia Vulgaris Moroccan
3 Citronellol 3 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
14 Benzyle Acetate 4 Cedryl Acetate 50 %
334 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) .1 Benzoin Abs.
38 Cedarwood Oil Virginia .1 Alpha Damascone
5 Anethole USP
22 Geraniol 60 %
3 Dihydro Cyclacet 1,000
9 Ionone Beta Coeur
10 Iso E Super
9 Methyl Iso Eugenol
29 Iso Bornyl Acetate
34 Lemon Oil California
3 Lyral
7 Phenylethylalcohol
.1 Lichen
1 Citronellyl Acetate
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Glen O. Brechbill 256

Masculine Fragrance’s - Fougere Sweet

FOUGERE SWEET

This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known
today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on
the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized.

Top Lavender 7 %

Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric Bergamot 4 %, Rosemary 1 %, Laurel % Herbaceous

Thyme - Trace, Basil 2 %

Middle Carnation 5 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Jasmin 7 %, Muguet 2 % Floral Spicy


Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Geranium 2 %, Rose 4 %

Base Musk 2 %

Tonka 3 %, Sandalwood 5 %, Amber - Trace Warm

Patchouli 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

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257 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Sweet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

20 Benzyle Benzoate 14 Bergamot Oil Substitute


17 Musk NC 27 Geraniol 98 %
7 Tonka Substitute .3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
2 Benzophenone 10 Verdyl Acetate
1 Mousse De Chenne 9 Citrus Lavender Base
8 Patchluli Oil Light 4 Iso Nonyl Acetate
29 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 15 Terpinyl Acetate
19 Coumarin Crystals Extra Pure .1 Undecatriene
36 Osyrol .1 Rose Oxide L
10 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 4 Carnaline
17 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Safraleine - Givaudan
.1 Iso Propyl Quinoline .1 Birch Tar Oil - Rectified
33 Carnation Base 5 Ionone Alpha Refined
5 Cashemran 3 Thyme Oil White
3 Fir Balsam Canadian 17 Verdyl Propionate
15 Oak Base 1 Celery Seed Oil - India
7 Herboxane 5 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
18 Eugenol .3 Aldehyde Supra
6 Kephalis 19 Linalyl Acetate
10 Heidera Base 1 Methyl Chavicole
39 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 2 Syringa
19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Tea Tree Oil
4 Prenol
15 Organic Shampoo Base
5 Citronellol 1,000
9 Lyral
315 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
10 b - Irone
2 Benteine
68 Benzyl Acetate
75 Lavender ( Bulgaria )
16 Linalol Synthetic FCC
11 Helional
3 Rosmary Oil Morocco
9 Hexyle Salicylate

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Glen O. Brechbill 258

Fougere Sweet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

10 Benzyl Benzoate 16 Bergamot Oil Substitute


17 Musk Ketone 27 Geraniol 60
9 Tonka Substitute .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
3 Geranium Rose - China 10 Verdyl Acetate
1 Mousse De Metre 9 Citrus Lavender Base
8 Patchluli Oil MD 4 Pampleousse
26 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 12 Terpinyl Acetate
19 Alicate .1 Undecatriene
48 Sandela .1 Rose Oxide L
10 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Carnaline
19 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Poivre 125
.1 Iso Butyl Quinoline .1 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
14 Methyl Iso Eugenol 5 Ionone Alpha 60
2 Traseolide - Quest 1 Thyme Oil - Spanish
1 Fir Balsam Oil 17 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
15 Oak Base 1 Celery Seed Oil - India
7 Herboxane 4 Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
40 Eugenol .3 Phenylacetaldenyde
6 Kephalis 23 Linalyl Acetate
10 Heidera Base 1 Methyl Chavicole
39 Methyl Ionone Gamma 2 Syringa
19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Eugenyl Acetate
7 Cedrenyl Acetate 1 Basilic
5 Vernol
12 Organic Shampoo Base
5 Citronellol 850 - IFF 1,000
15 Lyral
314 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
10 a - Ionone
4 Meijiff
68 Super Cepionate
72 Lavender ( Bulgaria )
14 Linalol Synthetic FCC
4 Helional
3 Rosmary Oil
12 Hexyle Salicylate

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259 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Sweet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

14 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Ocimene


17 Ethylene Brassylate 8 Bergamot Oil Substitute
6 Coumane 27 Geraniol 60
3 Benzophenone .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Mousse De Chenne 12 Verdyl Acetate
8 Patchluli Oil Light 9 Citrus Lavender Base
28 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Vanoris
14 Di Hydro Coumarex 16 Terpinyl Acetate
45 Sandela .1 Undecatriene
10 Cinnamon Bark Substitute .1 Rose Oxide D
19 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Rhodiascent
.1 Earth 2 Methyl Iso Eugenol
14 Iso - Eugenol .1 Pepperwood - Givaudan
5 Musk Emeressence 5 Ionone Beta
1 Fir Balsam Anhydrol Inco 5 3 Thyme Oil - Spanish
20 Oak Base 17 Verdyl Propionate
4 Herboxane 1 Celery Seed Oil - India
38 Eugenol - Indonesia 8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
6 Kephalis .3 Aldehyde Supra
8 Heidera Base 23 Linalyl Acetate
41 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Methyl Chavicole
19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Syringa
7 Cedrenyl Acetate 4 Eugenyl Acetate
5 Prenol 1 Basilic
12 Organic Shampoo Base
5 Citronellol
19 Lyral 1,000
303 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
12 y - Irone
4 Benteine
68 Hedione
72 Lavender ( Bulgaria )
14 Linalol Synthetic FCC
11 Helional
3 Rosmary Oil Morocco

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Glen O. Brechbill 260

Masculine Fragrance’s - Oriental Sweet

ORIENTAL SWEET

An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fra-
grances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength.
Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme.

Top Jasmin 2 %

Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Orange 1 %, Green Notes .5 %, Bergamot 8 % Fruity Sweet


Benteine
Laurine Extra Ylang Ylang 1 %, Peach 3 %

Middle Violet 1 %

Muguet 4 %, Jasmin 4 %, Rose 6 % Floral Sweet


Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 %
Carnation 5 %

Base Vanilla 1.5 %

Sandalwood 2 %, Musk 2 %, Patchouli 1 %, Tonka 1 % Balsamic

Vetiver 4 %, Resin Benzoin 1 %, Moss - Trace, Earth - Trace

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 7 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

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261 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Sweet # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Bacdanol .1 Civet
9 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
6 Vanilla Beans, Indonesia 28 Peach Aldehyde
19 Sandalwood Substitute 1 Rosardia Augaflor 21
10 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 3 Neroli Artessence
39 Phthalate D’Ethyle .1 Undecavertol
1 Mousse De Metre 2 Methyl Diantilis
4 Sandalwood, Java 11 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
23 Galaxolide Artessence 35 Linalyl Acetate
72 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Alcohol C - 10
9 Patchouli Oil MD 2 Styrallylacetate
11 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 1 Iso Jasmone
8 Ethyl Vanillin 9 Lavender Oliffac
43 Benzyl Acetate 6 Anapear - Givaudan
9 Jasphene .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Carnaline 11 Orange Oil, Sweet
38 Vetiver Extender 4 Vetiver Acetate
4 Fleuramone 3 Ciclamen Aldeido
22 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Vanilla Absolute
3 Orris Oil 1 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Earth 1 Mysoriff
45 Geraniol 60 3 Nerol G
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 5 Vertifloreol
6 Citronellol 9 Clemflor
1 Balsam Peru Oliffac .1 Decanal 4 Trans
3 Javanol
329 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
1 Sandalwood Agemarked E.I.
25 Muguet Base
33 Carnation Base
.1 Parmavert
3 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
47 Linalool Coeur
.1 Violiff

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Glen O. Brechbill 262

Oriental Sweet # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Vanillin 4 Laurine Extra


22 Musk Gx 50 % DEP 3 Carnation Augaflor 17
6 Bacdanol 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
19 Sandalwood Extender 4 Jasmonyl Acetate
9 Benzyl Benzoate 54 Linalool Coeur
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Styrallylacetate
11 Cou Marin 1 Methyl Pamplemousse
10 Patchouli Indonesia 1 Bois Ambrene Forte
4 Iso E Super .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Undecelenico
1 Cedraclaire 3 Flroeal
.1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 38 Linalyl Acetate
6 Etil Vanilina Rhodiarome 27 Peacharoma Base
3 Iris Beurre Oil 6 Hidroxi Citronelal
51 Benzyl Salicylate - 98 % China .1 Rose Abs.
9 Osyrol 1 Amberfleur
26 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Aldeido Ciclamen
31 Vetiver Extender 11 Aldehyde C - 14
49 Eugenol .1 Leaf Alcohol
9 Citronellol 3 Citronellyl Acetate A - IFF
42 Muguet Base 1 Eugenol Acetate
.1 Alcohol C - 08 4 Iso Jasmone T
2 Iris Givco 204/2 6 Mandarinal
1 Winter Green
319 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
2 Fir Needle Oil Asia 1,000
41 Geraniol Pure
38 Acetate De Benzyle
1 Vanilla Beans
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
7 Methyl Ionone
10 Benzoine Resinoid
4 Odorys RH
5 Iso - Eugenol
6 Vetiver Acetate
.1 Nonadienal
11 Orange Oil, Spanish

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263 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Sweet # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Patchouli Oil MD 9 White Vineyard Peach - Givaudan


10 Benzoato Benzila 6 Hydroxycitronellal 99 %
11 Coumarin Substitute 1 Iridales
6 Opoponax Base 3 Muguet Augaflor 16
20 Cashmeran 11 Cinnamic Aldehyde
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 1 Cis Jasmone
4 Vanilla Tincture 20 % 4 Cedraclaire
44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 2 Styrallyl Acetate
11 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 1 Fixateur 404
.1 Evernyl 4 Alicate
58 Benzyl Salicylate 2 Fir Balsam Canadian
4 Vanilla Resinoid 3 Petilyn
5 Heliotropine 1 Bisabolene
48 Vetiver Extender 4 Nerol
41 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 55 Linalool
27 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Santalyl Acetate
.1 Iso Butyl Quinoline 11 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
4 Cedrenyl Acetate 3 Cyclamen Aldehyde
5 Ethyl Vanisal 1 Acetate Terpenila
49 Geraniol 9 Orange Oil C.P. - USA
3 Lysmeral 1 Methyl Iso Eugenol
1 Anisyl Alcohol 3 Vetiver Acetate
1 Di Methyl Octanol 2 Orange West Indies
32 Eugenol
334 Di Propileno Glicol
2 Benzoin Oliffac 63 1,000
6 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
3 Citronellol
35 Eugenol
4 Cedarwood Oil Atlas
27 Peach Aldehyde
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
1 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Benteine
33 Linalyl Acetate

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Glen O. Brechbill 264

Spice Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate Eugenol Sweet spicy carnation.


Acetate Iso Eugenol Balsamic, warm faintly spicy.

Bay Oil West Indies Powerful spicy and sweet.


Bisabolene Warm spicy balsamic.

Caraway Oil Intense and spicy.


Cardamon Oil Spicy balsamic odor.
Cardamon Abs. Strong warm spicy aromatic.
Cardamone Oil D - 1204 Sweet, spicy piney woody camphoraceous.
Caryophelline Beta Woody spicy dry and tenacious.
Cassia Oil Intense cinnamon like.
Cassie Abs. Powerful strong spicy floral odor.
Cassie Abs. Syn 17.620 Warm powdery spicy and at same time herbaceous odor.
Celery Seed Oil Spicy warm sweet, and rich soup like odor.
Cinnamalva Powerful warm spicy oily slight floral.
Cinnamic Aldehyde Warm spicy balsamic odor suggestive of cassia, cinnamon.
C A Di Methyl Acetal Warm spicy, balsamic odor, cinnamon like.
Cinnamon Leaf Oil Warm spicy rather harsh, lacks rich body of bark oil.
CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.
Clove Bud Abs. An intensely warm powerful sweet clove spicy odor.
Clove Bud Oil Warm, sweet clove odor.
Clove Critical Sweet, clean clove spicy.
Clove De Girofle Resin Abs. An extremely strong spicy, and herbaceous odor.
Clove Leaf Decolorized Oil Has a typical clove odour.
Clove Leaf Oil Harsh, woody and dry spicy odor.
Clove Stem Oil Strong spicy somewhat woody, but quite pleasant odor.
Clove Terpenes Oil Warm sweet spicy strong, typical clove odor.
Coriander Oil Pleasant sweet somewhat woody spicy aromatic candy like.
Coriander Essence Max A pungent spicy aromatic odor of coriander oil.
Coriander Oil Russian Spicy and aromatic, very nice.
Coumarin Sweet, warm, herbaceous, slightly spicy, dilution - hay like.

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265 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Coumarin Sub # 772A Almost oppressively cloying, more vanilla then herbaceous.
Cubeb Oil Dry woody, but simultaneously warm camphoraceous spicy.
Cumin Oil Extremely powerful diffusive green spicy, slightly fatty odor.
Curruma Oil Spicy and fresh Rem of sweet orange, ginger & galganga oil.
Cyclotene Sweet and very powerful, caramellic spicy odor, walnut mapple.

Dianthanol A spicy carnation floral rose compound.


Di Hydro Iso Eugenol Warm spicy sweet slight floral balsamic odor.

Elemi Terpene, peppery lemon dilweed.


Eugenol Powerful warm spicy balsamic.
Eugenol Acetate Mild and sweet spicy balsamic.

Fennel Oil Bitter Sharp peppery, camphoraceous.


Fennel Oil Sweet Sweet peppery, spicy.
Flove Oil Intensely sweet, coumarin hay like heavy herbaceous odor.

Ginger Oil Warm fresh woody, spicy odor.

Heliotropine Sweet warm floral, slightly spicy, dilution - cherry pie.

Iso Eugenol Mild and sweet deep floral carnation like.


Iso Eugenol # 6504 A sweet spicy warm floral odor of carnation very nice.
Iso Eugenol Ethyl Acetal Spicy floral carnation like softer.

Methyl Amyl Ketone Penetrating fruity spicy light odor.


Methyl Benzaldehyde Warm mildly floral sweet spicy odor of benzaldehyde.
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Powerful sweet herbaceous cinnamon spicy.
Methyl Eugenol Peculiar musty tea like, warm mildly spicy.
Methyl Iso Eugenol Sweet and warm mild floral tea like slightly spicy.
Myrr Essence Warm balsamic, sweet somewhat spicy.
Myrr Oil Warm spicy.
Myrr Resinoid Intensely warm deep spicy.
Myrtle Oil Rectified, Tunesia Distinct, spicy and camphoraceous.

Nutmeg Oil Fresh warm spicy.

Olibanol Highly balsamic and spicy.


Opoponax Oil Possesses and intensely sweet balsamic spicy.
Opoponax Resinoid Sweet aromatic reminiscent of spicy soups.
Orange Des Indes 68A817 A nice clean fresh orange odor with a discreet spicy note.

Pepper Oil Black Fresh dry, woody warm spicy odor resembles dried pepper.

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Glen O. Brechbill 266

Pimento Berries Oil Warm, spicy sweet odor.


Pimento Leaf Oil Dry, woody warm spicy aromatic odor reminiscent of clove leaf.

Terpinyl Acetate Herbaceous sweet, refreshing spicy.


Thyme Oil Red Rich sweet powerful, sweet warm herbaceous spicy.
Thyme Oil White Sweeter then red oil.
Thymol Crystals. Powerful sweet medicinal herbaceous warm spicy.
Tonka Beans Abs. Sweet herbaceous slightly spicy.
Tonkarinol Rich sweet warm distinctly coumarin.

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267 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Oriental Spicy

ORIENTAL SPICY

Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous
materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.

Top Bergamot 6 %

Strawberry 1 %, Orange 5 %, Lemon 3 % Fruity Sweet

Mandarin 2 %, Basil 1 %, Peach 1 %

Middle Cinnamon 3 %

Carnation 4.5 %, Jasmin 5 %, Rose 5 % Spicy Floral


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 %
Spice Notes 2 % Violet 3 %, Muguet 1.5 %, Pine 1 %, Lilac .5 %

Base Tonka 6 %

Opoponax 1 %, Myrrh 1 %, Musk 2 % Warm Spicy

Sandalwood 2 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2%
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 268

Oriental Spicy # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Heliotropine 4 Pepperwood
17 Alicate 9 Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Sri. Lanka
28 Benzylsalicylate 6 Jasmolactone Extra C
22 Ethylene Brassylate 23 Orange Oil, Sweet
10 Opoponax Base .3 Tobacco Tincture
3 Thymoxane 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Suderal LT
8 Sandela 13 Terpinyl Acetate
6 Caryophylline 919 41 Lemon Italian Select ( Winter Crop )
11 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 1 Suderal LT
15 Cinnamon Bark Substitute .2 Tea Tree Oil
.1 Lichen 6 Benzaldehyde
33 Eugenol 4 Clove Oil, Rectified
27 Benzyl Acetate 9 Linalool
14 alpha Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Clemenflor
9 Lilial 3 Melon Oliffac
4 Bisabolene .1 Lavender Absolute
3 Tonka Resinoid 1 Nerol
12 Carnation Base 5 Methyl Diantilis
15 Hercolyn - D 3 Iso - Eugenol
4 Pepperwood 22 Linalyl Acetate
8 Thymol Crystals 3 Girofle Clove Oil
53 Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC
306 Di Propileno Glico 2 Tangerinol
14 Ionone Alpha 60
9 Citronellol
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000
6 Raspberry Ketone
72 Geraniol
4 Jasmin Egypt
45 Muguet Base
2 Piper Nigrum - Black Pepper
1 Anisaldehyde
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Geranyl Acetate

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269 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Oriental Spicy # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Acetate Iso Eugenol 9 Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Sri. Lanka


13 Coumarin Extra Pure 6 Jasmolactone Extra C
28 Benzylsalicylate 23 Orange Oil, Sweet
22 Ethylene Brassylate .3 Tobacco Tincture
10 Opoponax Base 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Thymol Crystals 6 Suderal HT
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 13 Terpinyl Acetate
8 Brahmanol 41 Lemon Italian Select ( Winter Crop )
6 Caryophylline 919 1 Pimento Leaf
11 Myrrh Resinoid Washed .2 Tea Tree Oil
12 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 6 Benzaldehyde
.1 Lichen 4 Clove Oil, Rectified
29 Eugenol 9 Linalool
31 Benzyl Acetate 1 Clemenflor
14 alpha Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol 3 Melon Oliffac
9 Lyral .1 Coriander Oil Russian
4 Caryophelline 1 Nerol
3 Tonka Resinoid 5 Dianthanol
12 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Carnaline
15 Benzoato Benzila 22 Linalyl Acetate
4 Poivre 125 3 Girofle Clove Oil
8 Thyme ( Thymol Type ) 1 Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC
53 Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Tangerinol
306 Di Propileno Glico
14 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
9 Citronellol 1,000
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
6 Raspberry Ketone
72 Geraniol
4 Jasmin Egypt
45 Muguet Base
2 Piper Nigrum - Black Pepper
1 Anisaldehyde
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Geranyl Acetate
4 Pepperwood

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Glen O. Brechbill 270

Oriental Spicy # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

5 Heliotropine 9 Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Sri. Lanka


11 Coumarin Substitute 2 Methyl Jasmonate
30 Benzyl Salicylate 23 Orange Oil Valencia ( Sweet )
19 Galaxolide 50 .3 Tobacco Tincture
10 Opoponax Base 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Thymoxane 6 Suderal LT
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 13 Terpinyl Acetate
10 Brahmanol 45 Lemon Oil Washed
3 Caryophylline 919 1 Pimento Leaf
11 Myrrh Resinoid Washed .2 Tea Tree Oil
12 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 6 Benzaldehyde
.1 Moss Oliffac 4 Clove Oil, Rectified
29 Eugenol 9 Linalool
34 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 1 Orange Aldehyde
12 Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 Melon Oliffac
9 Liral .1 Jasmine India Absolute
4 Bisabolene 1 Nerol Coeur
1 Tonka Resinoid 5 Methyl Diantilis
12 Iso Eugenol Replacement 3 Carnaline
15 Benzyl Benzoate 22 Linalyl Acetate
4 Poivre 125 3 Girofle Clove Oil
5 Caraway Oil - Holland 1 Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC
49 Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Mandarinal
320 Di Propileno Glico
16 a - Irone
9 Citronellol 1,000
8 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
6 Raspberry Ketone
72 Geraniol
1 Jasmin Egypt
48 Hydroxycitronellal Extender
2 Pepper Oil Black - India
1 Anisaldehyde
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Geranyl Acetate
4 Safraleine

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271 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Woody Fragrance Chemicals

Abalyn A weak piney woody odor.


Allyl Ionone Oily sweet slight flowery, but also fruity woody bark like green.
Aloe Vera Lupo Quinon Extract An extremely fine delicate ambergris sandalwood odor.
Alpha Pinene Warm resinous, refreshing coniferious like.
Ambergris T Oliffac Amber
Amphermate Woody.
Amyris Acetate Woody slightly sweet dry, fresh.
Amyris Oil W.I. Faintly woody not dry.

Bacdanol Powerful sandalwood note.


Beachwood Cresote Powerful and penetrating resembling that of smoked wood.
Benteine A woody odor.
Beta Pinene Dry, woody resinous piney.
Birch Leaf Oil Pleasant woody green balsamic odor.
Birch Tar Oil A phenolic tarry woody smoky leathery, diffusive material.
Brahmanol A light sweet odor of sandalwood.

Cabreuva Oil Sweet woody very delicate slightly floral.


Cade Oil Intense tar like smoky phenolic odor.
Cadinene Mild, dry woody slightly medicinal tarry odor.
Calamus Warm, woody spicy and pleasant odor.
Cedarwood Alcohol A woody cedar type odor, a bit harsh.
Cedarwood Oil Terpeneless Stronger woody cedar odor free from terpenes.
Cedarwood Oil Texas Crude Pleasant sweet woody somewhat tar like odor.
Cedarwood Oil Virginia Oily woody almost sweet mild pleasant, cedar chest like odor.
Cedramber Refined woody, pleasantly green odor.
Cedrene Woody, camphoraceous, somewhat dry green odor.
Cedrenol Mild woody odor less dry more balsamic than cedrene.
Cedrol Crystals Very faint odor of cedarwood type.
Cedrenyl Acetate Faint fresh woody odor.
Cedryl Acetate Woody slight leathery.
Citronella Oil Ceylon Peculiar warm woody yet fresh grassy odor of wet leaves.

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Glen O. Brechbill 272

Cortex Aldehyde Powerful green woody sap like, but fresh aldehydic sweet.
Costus Oil Peculiar soft tenacious, reminiscent of old precious wood.
Cubeb Oil Dry woody, but simultaneously warm camphoraceous spicy.
Cypress Oil Pleasing smoky woody similar to amber.

Di Hydro Cuminyl Alcohol Warm, herbaceous slightly woody oily odor.

Fir Needle Balsam Resin A powerful diffusive pine forest type odor.
Fir Needle Canadian Rich balsamic sweet, and pleasant oily pinaceous fragrance.
Fir Needle Siberian Refreshing balsamic, slight fatty oily with Pw pine forest odor.
Fixolide Sweet woody musky.
Fleuroxene A strong green floral woody non descript odor.

Ginger Oil Sweet fresh woody spicy.


Guaicol Powerful smoke like medicinal odor.
Guaicwood Acetate Soft warm delicately sweet rosy woody odor.
Gurjan Balsam Oil Mildly woody balsamic sweet odor.

Heptavert A green woody odor.

Ionone Beta More fruity, and woody like than alpha.


Iraldeine Beta Woody warm odor.
Iris Resin Deep sweet slightly woody tobacco like.
Iso Cyclomene E Woody amber.
Iso E Super Woody amber.
Iso Longifolanone Fresh woody raw amber.
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A A fine sandalwood cedar complex quite natural.

Kephalis LRG - 1182 Woody amber complex.


Koavone Woody floral complex with amber violet note.
Kohinool A fine woody amber dry out.

Linalool Oxide Powerful sweet woody floral.

Menthanyl Acetate Fresh piney citrusy somewhat herbaceous.


Menthol Racemic Similar to above more woody less sweet.
Merion A diffusive oriental woody complex.
Methyl Ionone Beta Woody warm odor.
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur Purer grade more woody, and warm.
Methyl Ionone Gamma A A floral violet woody isomeric mixture.
Methyl I G Supreme Floral woody fruity complex.
Methyl Ionone Tails A harsh woody solvent masking odor.
Methyl Ionone Terpenes Harsh woody solvent masking fragrance.

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273 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Mousse De Chenne Abs. Powerful clean oakmoss odor.


Mousse De Metra Powder form of oakmoss.
Moussyl 1055 A mossy balsamic type odor almost woody like very dry.

Nerolidyl Acetate Sweet woody and mildly refreshing green.


Nopol Mild woody camphoraceous odor.
Nopyl Acetate Sweet woody fruity odor.
Norsdandyl 81157 A fine woody complex.

Orivone Very diffusive woody camphoraceous odor.


Ortho Methyl Cinnamic Ald. Powerful sweet herbaceous woody camphoraceous.
Osyrol Sandalwoody flowery woody note.

Parsley Seed Oil Warm woody sweet spicy.


Patchone Extremely dry woody camphoraceous.
Patchouli Dark Extremely rich sweet herbaceous aromatic spicy woody.
Petitgrainol Intensely woody neroli note.
Phenyl Acetaldehyde Powerful green wood sap like.
Pine Oil Yarmor # 302 Fresh, harsh pine type.
Polarsan Sandalwood.

Rosemary Oil Woody herbaceous, reiminiscent of spike lavender oil.


Rose Nitrile Rich rose geranium woody iris.

Sandalore Sandalwood amyris woody type odor.


Sandela Sandalwood.
Sandalwood Essence Captures the sweetness and heart of sandalwood very nice.
Sandalwood 77.125B Has the dry slightly sweet balsamic odor of amyris oil W.I.
Sandalwood Oil East Indies Extremely soft sweet woody almost animal balsamic.
Sandalwood Oil Australian Soft woody extremely tenacious and somewhat balsamic.
Sandranol Woody, and extremely fine sandalwood compound last days.
Santalum Citrinum Very pleasant sweet woody odor reminiscent of sandalwood.

Thiazyl Dry woody and Eau De Grouts character.


Tree Moss Abs. A strong at the same time persistent moss odor.
Trimofix Amber woody note with vetivert and smoky tobacco nuances.
Turpentine SDW A woody solvent which is steam distilled.

Unipine 85 Fresh pine.


Unipine 90 Fresh pine.
Unitene D Piney lemony type odor.

Valanone B Warm woody odor.

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Glen O. Brechbill 274

Vanoris Woody fruity, soft refreshing odor of mild orris type.


Vertenex Sweet, animal creamy woody odor with a soft floral undertone.
Vertofix Woody.
Vetivert Oil Bourbon Woody, finest grade of vetivert oil.

Woodine Woody.

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275 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Chypre Woody

CHYPRE WOODY

This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which
smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and
warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like
note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly
fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and
can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.

Top Lime 3 %

Grape 1 %, Apple 1 %, Orange 1 % Fruity Sweet

Bergamot 6 % - Dry, Strawberry - Trace, Cherry 2 %, Basil 3 %

Middle Veternex 19 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 % Hawthorn 3 %, Jasmin - Trace, Lilac - Trace Woody


Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Carnation 2 %
Base
Sandalwood 10 %

Musk 5 %, Patchouli 1 %, Vanilla - Trace Warm

Iso E Super - 2 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 25 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 276

Chypre Woody # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

22 Iso E Super .1 Earth


1 Vanilla Resinoid 3 Methyl Anthranilate
40 Ethylene Brassylate 28 Geraniol 60
35 Phthalate Ethyle ‘D 2 Vetivert Acetate
114 Sandalwood Extender 3 Pheny Ethyl Acetate
7 Patchouli Light 1 Guaiyl Acetate
10 Benzyl Salicylate 25 Linalool
8 Javanol 1 Massada
3 Heliotropin .1 Aldehyde C - 10
7 Acetate Cedrenila 1 Verdox
5 Bacdanol 1 Santalyl Acetate
4 Lyral 8 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
18 Benzyle Acetate 11 Orange Oil Sweet
15 alpha - Amyl Cinnami Aldehyde 1 Cedarwood Oil Virginia
5 Syringa .1 Methyl Cinnimate
6 Methyl Phenyl Acetate 17 Linalyl Acetate
163 Vertenex 4 Eugenyl Acetate
8 Phnyl Ethyl Alcohol 3 Lime AB 402
14 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Oranger Crystals
15 Iso Eugenol Substitute 2 Fir Douglas
8 Osyrol 2 Waxberry Aldehyde
6 Anisic Aldehyde 4 Ionone Beta
4 Citronellol 850 2 Amyris Oil - Haiti
7 Valanone B 3 Lavender Oliffac
9 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
277 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Bisabolene 1,000
2 Merillol
1 Rose Crystals
5 Sandalwood Mysore
18 Benzaldheyde
24 Dihydromyrcenol
1 OJ Carbinyl
3 Merion
2 Base 3
.3 Aldeido C - 12 MNA
11 Verdyl Propionate

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277 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Woody # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

15 Iso & Super 11 Orange Oil Brazilian Distilled


9 Patchouli MD 21 Dimetol
11 Benzyle Salicylate .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Cade Crude 6 Lime Oils ( c.p. / dist. )
3 Vanillin 1 Earth
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Aldehyde C - 10
87 Sandalwood Substitute 3 Litsea Cubeba Oil
6 Heliotropine 3 Verdox
48 Galaxolide Artessence 41 Linalool
19 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Orange Crystals
.1 Birch Tar Oil rectofoed .1 Celery Essence
7 Cedrenyl Acetate 9 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
2 Vanillin, ethyl 7 Methyl Anthranilate
16 Supercepionate 3 Aldeido C - 16
4 Vetamber 16 Benzaldehyde
25 Aubepine .1 Rose Wood Oil
157 Vertenex - IBCH Acetate 1 Santalol
.1 Mousse Essence Abs. 2 Methyl Ionone Beta
17 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 18 Linalyl Acetate
15 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1 Drywood Augaflor 16
9 Citronellol 4 Lavender Oliffac
1 Tonalid II .1 Violet Leaves
3 Coniferan 1 Azarbe
2 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
278 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
14 Geraniol 1,000
3 Bisabolene
8 Methyl Ionone Beta
27 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Terpineol
2 Lindenol
1 OJ Carbinyl
4 Hexyl Salicylate
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
14 Verdyl Propionate
1 Piconia

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Glen O. Brechbill 278

Chypre Woody # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

103 Sandalwood Oil Substitute 3 Apple Oliffac


1 Amberwood 5 Vertofix Coeur
35 Phthalate D’Ethyle 7 Methyl Ionone Beta
.1 Moss ( Lichen ) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
9 Alpha Pinene 37 Linalool Nat.
12 Benzyl Salicylate 22 Dihydromyrcenol
11 Iso E Super .1 Folione
48 Galaxolide Artessence 1 Methyl Chamomile
87 ( IBCH - Acetate ) 10 Verdyl Propionate
9 Sandalo Indie .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
8 Cedrenyl Acetate 4 Methyl Anthranilate
13 Amil Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Tonalid I
11 Patchouly Indonesia Oil .2 Violet Oil MF
2 Vanilina 2 Orange Bigarade California
1 Cade Oil rectified 14 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
6 Jasphene 1 Cinnamon Leaves
9 Terpineol Prime 22 Linalyl Acetate
16 Kephalis .4 Fir Needle - Canada
4 Hysimal 2 Terpinyl Acetate
10 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Benzaldehyde
3 Valanone B 3 Methyl Cedryl Ketone
12 Citronellol 1 Fir Balsam Oreton
1 Ethyl Vanisal 9 Oranger Crystals
1 Bisabolene 12 Lime Oil Roses Type
12 Cepionate .5 Meranol
23 Geraniol 80 2 Pearlate
18 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
296 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
22 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1,000
1 Base # 3 - Givaudan
22 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
25 Anisic Aldehyde
3 OJ Carbinyl
1 Strawberry pure
.1 Phenylacetaldehyde

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279 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE WOODY

Top Bergamot 6 % - Fruity

Jasmin, Rose, Violet Notes Floral Fruity

Pear - Trace

Middle Lyral 8 %

Violet 1 %, Jasmin 6 %, Rose 5 % Floral

Muguet 2 %, Carnation - Trace

Base Musk 12 %

Bacdanol 3 % Sandalwood 12 %, Patchouli 3 %, Tonka 3 % Woody


Cedramber 1.5 %
Vanilla 3 %, Tolu Balsam 3 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 280

Chypre Woody # 2a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Bacdanol .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA


28 Patchouli 4 Ionone Beta
103 Galaxolide Artessence 22 Linalol S 97
26 Di Hydro Coumarex 1 Black Agar Givco 215
4 Iso E Super 1 Kephalis
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DP) 1 Muguet Alcohol
1 Amber Core 1 Thuja Wood Oil
9 Bacdanol 9 Pin de Siberle AN
12 Hydroxy Citronellal .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
106 Sandalwood Substitute 14 Vetiver Oil - Viet Nam
9 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 7 Methyl Iso Eugenol
3 Chandalone 12 Alpha Pinene
15 Vanillin 33 Linalyl Acetate
6 Coniferan .1 Styrax Essence
8 Benteine .1 Methyl Octyne Carbonate Substitute
3 Eugenol 4 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
1 Jessemal 3 Woodynol - II
4 Kephalis 11 Terpineol
7 Tolu Balsam Resinoid 1 Citronellyl Acetate
12 Citronellol 96 % 1 Verdantiol
63 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Lioral
1 Methyl Iso Eugenol 5 Pine Oil
25 Geraniol 3 Orris Givco 204/2
6 Cedrenyl Acetate
270 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Ethyl Vanillin 1,000
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
8 Lyral
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol
4 Sandela
45 Hedione
4 Beta Ionone For Soap
.1 Guaiaicol
13 Cedarwood Oil Texas Light
.1 Phenylacetaldehyde
1 Eugenyl Acetate
1 Glycolierral

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281 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Woody # 2b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Benzoato Benzila 6 Ionone For Soap


28 Sandela 1 Trimofix
19 Etilen Brasilato 14 Ethyl Linalool
3 Rose Crystals 5 Vetyver Java
14 Vanillin 3 Fir Needle Silver
32 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Methyl Ionones
75 Traseolide 700 Base 4 Cedryl Acetate
6 Labdanum Resinoid 50 % / DPG 3 Jessemal
1 Tonkarinol 1 Santalyl Acetate
14 Oak Base 3 Karnal
9 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Citronellyl Acetate
3 Anthamber Premium .1 Merion
27 Cumarine 1 Piconia
11 Cedarwood Texas 1 Base 3
14 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
6 Galaxolide 50 DEP 2 Drywood Augaflor 8
23 Pachouli Oil Light 3 Hydroxyciol
9 Cedramber 1 Massada
7 Pine Needles Oil - Siberia 9 Lavener Oil 40/42
8 Citronellol 850 15 Pine Scotch Oil
17 Lindenol 1 Wealdwood ABQ 7019
4 Javanol 4 Birch - USA
43 Geraniol 60 .1 Woodamber - SA
3 Sandalwood 27 Linalyl Acetate
5 Tolu Balsam Resinoid
309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
8 Iris Beurre Oil
3 Black Agar Givco 215
104 Sandalwood Extender
58 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Blue Cypress
1 English Leather Base

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Glen O. Brechbill 282

Chypre Woody # 2c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

17 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 1 Hydroxy Extra


5 Patchouly - Indonesia 1 Aubepine
.1 Oakmoss Givco 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketome
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 17 Ionone Beta
7 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
48 Traseolide 700 Base 5 Jasmonyl Acetate
88 Sandalwood Substitute 3 Diola
18 Vanillin .1 Folione
9 Benteine 2 Dianthanol
25 Cou Marin 2 Santalyl Acetate
7 Alpha Pinene 5 Amyris Oil W.I.
11 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Osyrol 1 Costus Oliffac
13 Tolu Balsam Resinoid .2 Pivarose
6 Citronellol Prime 1 Styrax Essence
125 Sandalwood Extender 25 Linalyl Acetate Pure 98 %
4 Jasmin Benzola 4 Massada
.1 Alcohol C - 8 2 Sandenol
1 Jivanti 5 Iso Eugenyl Acetate
47 Acetato De Bencilo 1 Irival
1 Di Methyl Octanol 2 Guaiyl Acetate
6 Iso Eugenol Replacement 4 Sandiff
4 Kephalis .1 Rose Templar
3 Iso Bornyl Acetate
11 Jasmin Province Base
306 Di Propileno Glico 1,000
9 Lyrame
4 Heliotropine
35 Gernaiol
6 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
14 Ethyl Vanillin
.1 Labdanum Resinoid
1 Rose Acetate
.1 Blanca Flor
4 Muguet Aldehyde 50
25 Ethyl Linalool
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

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283 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE WOODY

Top Bergamot 5 % - Dry

Peach 1 %, Green Notes, Pear Fruity

Violet Note

Middle Jasmin 1 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Muguet 4 %, Carnation 1 %, Rose 3 % Floral


Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 %
Lily 1 %, Cedarwood 3 %

Base Sandalwood 25 %

Tonka 1 %, Vetiver 14 %, Patchouli 1 % Warm & Sweet

Musk 1 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 284

Chypre Woody # 3a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Cashmeran 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute


8 Hexyl Salicylate 1 Drywood Augaflor
206 Sandalwood Extender 6 Di Hydro Coumarex
1 Benzophenone 3 Methyl Ionone Beta
18 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Benzophenone
.1 Evernyl 2 Ocimene PQ
9 Patchouli - J.Piltz 1 Guaiyl Acetate
4 Amyris Sandalwood Oil - Haiti 17 Linalyl Acetate
3 Cedrenyl Acetate 4 Aldeido C - 14
10 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Bangalo
31 Benzyl Acetate 1 Costus Oliffac
4 Sandalwood Oliffac 5 Ionone Beta
18 Eugenol 3 Piconia
7 Methyl Octlactone 2 Vetiver Redistilled
91 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 1 Sandalore
1 Piconia .3 Geranium Oil E
27 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Cedryl Acetate Liquid
5 Methyl Cedryl Ketone .1 Phenylacetaldehyde
2 Osyrol 1 Rhodiaflor SB
4 Lavender Clonal .2 Santalox 244 M
73 Vetiver Extender 3 Pine Oil White
9 Ionone Beta 1 Folia SA
12 Oak Base
1 Massada
3 Citronellol 1,000
1 Pine Nigare
284 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
27 Rose Substitute
11 Geraniol 98
1 Labdanum Resinoide
9 Benzyl Alcohol
14 Galaxolide
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
26 Linalol Coeur
1 Madrox
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

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285 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Woody # 3b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Cinnamic Alcohol 9 Peach pure - Givaudan


11 Coumarin crist. 14 Vertofix Coeur
49 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
8 Sandalwood Oliffac 18 Linalyl Acetate
7 Patchouli China 1 Geranium Oil Algerian FCC
175 Sandalwood Extender 4 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
6 Traseolide 1 Vetiver Acetate
12 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 3 Jessemal
29 Cedarwood 1 Citronellyl Acetate
8 Benteine 4 Dihydrocoumarin
9 Amil Cinamico Aldeido 2 Majantal - IFF
.1 Mousse De Metre 5 Turpentine Oil SDW
11 Cepionate 6 Clary Sage Oil - Hungary
3 Leather LWS - 3768 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
103 Vetiver Extender 4 Santalex T
8 Osyrol 1 Merion
5 Sandenol China 25 Linalol
1 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 3 Nectaryl
12 Oak Base .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Para Cresyl redistilled 1 Drywood Augaflor 8
66 Muguet Base .1 Geraniol 600
24 Cedarwood Oil Virginia 2 Massada
3 b - Ionone .1 Rose Otto, Bulgaria
8 Citronellol 1 Mirabelle 2000 D
285 Di Propileno Glico .1 Styrax
4 Iso E Super
1 Rose Crystals
1 Abies Alba Oil - Bulgaria 1,000
22 Geraniol
5 Cedrenyl Acetate
3 Galbanolide
1 Labdanum Resinoid
1 Costus Oliffac
.3 Aldeido C - 12 MNA

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Glen O. Brechbill 286

Chypre Woody # 3c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Iso Bornyl Crystals .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA


21 Musk 50 BB 5 Turpentine rectified
1 Vertimoss 4 Nectaryl
2 Brahmanol F 1 Geranium over Roses
7 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Rose Oxide L
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Ocimenyl Acetate
1 Benzophenone .2 Base R 924
35 Vertenex - IBCH Acetate 3 Methyl Cedrylone
1 Sandalmysore Coeur 1 Rosemary Moroccan
9 Cedarwood Leaf Oil 1 Costus Oliffac
14 alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Massada
3 Cedraclaire 4 Vetyver China
1 Tonalid II .1 Aldheyde C - 12 Lauric
127 Vertofix Coeur 3 y - Irone
1 Massada 5 Lavender Oil - Bulgaria
25 Vetiver Extender 3 Santal Oil & Resinoid MF
1 Benzyl Iso Eugenol 903 9 Ionone For Soap
11 Citronellol 96 % 1 Fixateur 404
105 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 3 Muguet Alcohol
28 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldheyde 4 Diola
81 Sandalwood Substitute 1 Costus 320
3 Para Cresyl redistilled
38 Geraniol Pure
6 Terpineol Prime 1,000
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
309 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Patchone
3 Methyl Cedryl Ketone
5 Tuberose Substitute
17 Benzyl Acetate Coeur
9 Eugenol
1 Styrallylacetate
6 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
3 Cedro ( Arvere )
14 Peach Pure - Givaudan
3 Iso - Eugenol
1 Santalyl Acetate

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287 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE WOODY

Top Bergamot 5 %

Orange 7 %, Lemon 3 %, Lime 4 % Fruity

Basil 8 % - Fruity

Middle Woody 16 %

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3% Lilac 13 %, Rose 5 %, Muguet 2 % Woody Sweet


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3.5 %
Oranger Crystals .75 % Lavender 2 %

Base Musk 4 %

Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 2 %, Moss - Trace Sweet

Vanilla - .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1%
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 25 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 288

Chypre Woody # 4a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Bacdanol 5 Hexyl Salicylate


11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 17 Verdyl Propionate
9 Helional 4 Laurel Bay Oil
16 Sandalwood Extender 2 Guaiyl Acetate
12 Benzyl Benzoate 73 Orange Guinea
2 Oranger Crystals .2 Aldehyde C - 111 Lenic
19 Traseolide 700 Base 1 Birch Sweet Southern Oil
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Mandarin Artessence
1 Mousse De Metre 18 Lavender China Oil
3 Cade Rectified Oil 7 Dimetol
75 Iso Butyl Cyclo Hexyl Acetate 31 Linalyl Acetate S 96
4 Cedrenyl Acetate 14 Verdyl Acetate
25 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Sweet Pea
11 Benzylsalicylate 1 Bangalol
14 Cedarwood Oil Port Orford 3 Lime Oil Distilled Peru
6 Sandalore .5 Fir Needle Siberia - Russia
38 Vetiver Extener 24 Lemon Italian
1 Rosone 3 Methyl Cedrylone
83 Lilac Base 5 Ionone Beta Coeur
3 Woodinyl Acetate
6 Citronellol
3 Iridals 1,000
269 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Rosmarina Offinalis
23 Geraniol
1 Ionone For Soap
9 Methyl Lavender Ketone
3 Laurel Leaf Morocco
1 Santal - India
.3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
11 Menthanyl Acetate
9 Oak Base
22 Linalool
8 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

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289 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Woody # 4b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Alcool Benzilico 71 Sweet Orange Spruce Oil


28 Traseolide 700 Base 17 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
1 Amborate 28 Dihydromyrcenol
3 Patchouli Augalflor 22 .1 Tea - Tree
12 Coumane .2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Ocimenyl Acetate
7 Iso & Super 4 Diola
1 Cade Crude ( Juniperus ) 8 Menthanyl Acetate
8 Alpha Pinene 3 Woodynol - II
17 Osyrol 15 Verdyl Acetate
72 Vertenex - IBCH Acetate .1 Cedarwood Essence
4 Cedrenyl Acetate 6 Dimetol
5 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur 1 Fire
113 Lilac Base 25 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
1 Cedro ( Folha ) 6 Vetiver Acetate
4 Methyl Lavender Ketone 3 Costus Root Oil
2 Oranger Crystals 1 Labdanum Resinoid - Siam
33 Vertofix Coeur 5 Fir Needle Oil
19 Cedarwood Oil, Chinese .1 Rose Oxide L
6 Koavone 1 Black Agar Givco 215
4 Traseolide 4 Iris
1 Rosone 2 Santalyl Acetate
3 Fixateur 404 .1 White Rose
1 Pimento 2 Cedre Atlas Maroc
282 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
6 Citronellol
5 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1,000
.1 Folione
38 Geraniol 98 %
1 Thuja Wood Oil
35 Lemon Oil - Spain
1 White Thyme Oil
6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Amyris Oil
25 Hexyl Salicylate

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Glen O. Brechbill 290

Chypre Woody # 4c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

.1 Civet Powder # 1a 3 y - Irone


1 Amber Base .4 Oranger Crystals
43 Galaxolide 4 Fir Balsam
41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Mandarin Oil Red
9 Coumarin 6 Ionone Beta
6 Patchouly Oil 3 Labdanum Resnoid 50 % / DPG
8 Tonalid II 32 Verdyl Propionate
43 Vertofix Coeur 14 Linalol S 97
9 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Santalyl Acetate
16 Sandela 1 Guaiyl Acetate - IFF
23 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Menthanyl Acetate
11 Vetamber 53 Orange Oil, Sweet
16 Alpha Pinene 17 Verdyl Acetate
64 Vertenex Coeur .1 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
15 Cedarwood Oil Texas 6 Ocimene PQ
4 Helional 4 Turpentine Oil
3 Etilen Brassilate 3 Dimetol
8 Methyl Cedryl Ketone 27 Linalyl Acetate
9 Citronellol .1 Jessate
29 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 Vetiverol
1 Jessemal .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
1 Woodynol II 1 Anisaldehyde
27 Geraniol 3 Fixateur 404
101 Lilac Base 5 Levenalis
5 Hydroxycitronellal For Soap
10 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
261 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
.1 Cedryl Acetate Crystals
6 Methyl Ionone Beta
3 Iso Bornyl Crystals
1 Massada
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
1 Verotyl
22 Hexyle Salicylate
1 Cade, Rectified

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291 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Moss, Amber, & Tobacco Fragrance Chemicals

Moss AB311 Powerful, decolorized moss.


Moss AB311D Contains more colour stable mosses.
Moss Oliffac Very tenacious oak moss odor as found growing on your forest tree. Free
from coloring problems.
Mousse B Resin Abs. Oakmoss.
Mousse B Solide Resinoid Oakmoss.
Mousse C Savon Resinoid Oakmoss.
Mousse De Arbe Abs. Woody dry forest like, or seaweed like, herbaceous green.
Mousse De Arbe Resinoid Treemoss.
Mousse De Cevennes Oakmoss.
Mousse De Chene Oakmoss.
Mousse De Chene Abs. Powerful clean oakmoss odor.
Mousse De Chene Abs. Oakmoss.
Mousse De Chene Abs. Moroc Oakmoss.
Mousse De Chene Abs. Yugo Oakmoss.
Mousse De Chene Morocco Very tenacious oakmoss odor.
Mousse De Mer FM1062 Effervescent, fresh, sea moss, interesting whiskey and ginger note.
Mousse De Metra Powder form of oakmoss.
Mousse Essence Abs. Typical treemoss odor.
Mousse 27/30 Oakmoss.
Moussyl 1055 A mossy balsamic type odor almost wood like very dry.

Tree Moss Abs. A strong and at the same time persistent moss odor.
Tree Moss Abs. C ' Less M.D. A powerful mossy type odor which lasts days on the blotter.
Tree Moss C ' Less L.C. A diffusive tree moss woody odor.

Amber

Ambafix AB549 Musky, tobacco, animalic fixative base, amber.


Amber AB472 Warm, sweet slightly animalic, amber.
Amberlyx AB2000 Powerful, rich amber base.
Amberwood ABQ5583 Woody, amber complex.
Amborate Delicate woody amber character.

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Glen O. Brechbill 292

Amboryl Acetate Woody, with a delicate tenacious woody amber character.


Ambrasol AB455 Cost effective, animalic, amber base.
Ambre 140 BSA Very powerful amber and woody note.
Ambrox D - L Coeur Very faint amber odor.
Ambrox 10 % Powerful and elegant amber note with discreet rich woodiness.

Tobacco

Ambafix AB549 Musky, tobacco, animalic fixative base, amber.

Cade Oil Intense tar like smoky phenolic odor.

Frescolat Faint minty somewhat reminiscent of tobacco and camomile.

Gamma Hexalactone Warm powerful herbaceous sweet, tobacco like.

Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso Precious wood tobacco, creamy violet.

Styrax Coeur Tobacco, dewy, resinous balsamic.

Tabac Balkan Dec. Abs. Strong almost repulsive faintly reminiscent of cigar tobacco.
Tabac Noir Abs. Warm aromatic intense odour of tobacco.
Tabanon Warm, dry sweet tobacco like with good fixation.
Tetra Hydro Para Methyl Is frequently used in traces for artificial civet bases and in heavy oriental com
Quinoline positions. It produces honey, tobacco and animal notes also giving excellent f
fixation.
The/Res Inc ( Tea ) Resinoid Warm and reminiscent of tobacco.
Tobacarol Woody, amber, spicy tobacco.
Tobacco Abs. A diffusive material reminiscent of fresh tobacco leaves.

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293 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Chypre Coniferous

CHYPRE CONIFEROUS

A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy,
herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately
resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes
are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes.

Top Rosemary 1 %

Lavender 5 %, Bregamot 6 % - Dry, Lemon 2 % Herbaceous

Sage .5 %

Middle Pine 8 %

Rose 3 %, Violet 4 %, Jasmin 5 % Floral Woody

Base Fir 3 %, Carnation 4 %, Turpentine 1 %

Sandalwood 3 %

Cedarwood 1 %, Musk 3 %, Leather 1 % Woody

Amber 1 %, Benzoin .5 %, Birch Tar Oil - Trace, Earth - Trace


Bases:
English Leather Base, Sandalwood Extender, Organic Shampoo Base,
Oak Base, Iso Eugenol Replacement
Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 294

Chypre Coniferous # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Benzoato Benzila 3 Santalyl Acetate


28 Sandalwood Extender .4 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
25 Galaxolide 50 1 Cade
41 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Folione
.1 Cade Oil 1 Girofle Feuilles
6 English Leather Base 22 Lemon Mexico
1 Ambrofix .5 Aldehdo C - 12 Laurico
8 Cedrenyl Acetate 53 Lavender 40/42
11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 1 Irone V
14 Alpha Pinene 3 Cedryl Acetate
5 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 11 Pine Needles Oil - Siberia
19 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 29 Linalol
.1 Iso Butyl Quinoline 1 Sandalwood Oliffac
13 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 Ionone Beta
8 Organic Shampoo Base 3 Turpentine Oil SDW
35 Cepionate 2 Amyl Salicylate
107 Acetate Iso Bornila 3 Cedarwood Oil Texas Light
5 Black Agar Givco 215 19 Linalyl Acetate
22 Vertofix 4 Eucalyptus Radiata
14 Beta Pinene 7 Syringa
2 Indisan .1 Artemisia Morocco Essence
7 Kephalis 3 Polysantol
11 Oak Base .7 Jessemal
29 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
9 Citronellol
1 Rootanol 100 1,000
42 Carnation Base
281 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
4 Suderal LT
5 Resinoide Labdanum
9 Fir Needle Oil Canada
27 Geraniol
4 Sage Oil Clary
11 Citrus Lavender Base
.1 Methyl Cinnimate

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295 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Coniferous # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 4 Piperonyl Acetate


11 Benzyle Benzoate 3 Trimofix “O”
4 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 5 Gyrane
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 7 Methyl Anthranilate
94 Sandalwood Extender 6 Clary Sage Bulgarian
7 Cedryl Acetate 50 % 21 Verdyl Propionate
1 Ambermor 3 Piconia
9 Alpha Pinene .1 Alcohol C - 10
4 Bisabolene 1 Terpineol
12 Salicylate De Benzyle .1 Violet Leaf
1 Aniba Rosaeodora 3 Greanodyle
35 Musk 50 DPG 1 Methyl Chamomile
113 Acetato Iso Bornila .1 Strawberry Aldehyde
21 Geraniol 98 % 19 Linalyl Acetate
17 IBCH - Acetate 4 Apple Oliffac
4 Cuir de Rosse 2 Orange Crystals
1 Kephalis 1 Vanillyl Alcohol
21 alpha Amyl Cinamic Aldehyde 5 Aurantiol
1 Ionone Beta 23 Orange Oil, sweet
7 Citronellol Prime 14 Verdyl Acetate
3 Suderal LT 1 Meranol
11 Beta Pinene 9 Lime Base 400
21 Hedione 17 Fir Needle, Canada
18 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 31 Linalool
20 Anisaldehyde PQ
1 Rose Crystals
26 Lilial 1,000
251 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
13 Eugenol
.3 Aldehyde C - 12MNA
4 Patchouli
29 Dihydromyrcenol
18 Benzaldehyde
.1 Rose Oxide R
3 OJ Carbinyl
.3 Aldeido C - 12 Laurico

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Glen O. Brechbill 296

Chypre Coniferous # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

13 Sandalwood Super Eco 6 Irone Alpha Refined


4 Di Hydro Coumarex 35 Linalol
9 Benzyle Salicylate 8 Vetiver Oil - Hairi
17 Musecone 24 Benzaldehyde
4 Vanilla Inco 3 9 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
11 Patchouli Dark OE 2 Borneol Iso Pure
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Helional
21 Vetamber .1 3 - Octyl Acetate
3 Cedryl Acetate 1 Dorina SA
27 Amil Cinnamico Alddeido .1 Aldehyde C - 10
4 Cedar Atlantica Oil 19 Orange Oil Sweet - Sicilian
149 Iso Bornyl Acetate 20 Di Hydro Myrcenol
1 Ethyl Vanillin 15 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
9 Cashmeran .1 Neroline
3 Irone V 4 Petunial
2 Hawthron 9 Di Ethyl Malonate
25 Aldeido Hexil Cinamico 3 Litsea Cubeba Oil
19 Vertenex 5 Basil Commores Oil
13 Ionone Beta 3 Chandalyn AB 1513
1 Alpha Fenchyl Alcohol 2 Berryflor
21 Pine Oil 907 1 Vanillin Acetate
3 Safraleine 1 Jasmonyl Acetate
1 Labdanum Resinoid
35 MDJ
2 Citronellol 1,000
.1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
296 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
25 Carnation Base
35 Geraniol Pure
9 Alpha Pinene
22 Sandela
16 Linalyl Acetate
.1 OJ Carbinyl
.1 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
1 Strawberry Aldehyde

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297 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Leather Fragrance Chemicals

Birch Tar Oil Powerful phenolic, tarry woody smoky, leathery.


Birch Tar Oil Distilled A tenacious woody smoky leathery quite diffusive.
Birch Tar Oil Rectified A phenolic tarry woody smoky leathery, diffusive material.

Cade Oil Intense tar like smoky phenolic odor.


Castoreum Abs. Warm animal leather like sweet odor.
Castorium Abs. C ' Less Strong and warm resembles birch tar oil, leather like.
Castoreum Abs. 50 BB Rich animal leather note extracted from beaver castors.
Castoreum Givco 116 Castoreum Givco is a reconstitution of the natural oil, which it can replace in
equal amounts. This reconstitution contains only synthetic ingredients and
plant-based naturals. It reflects all the typical warm, animal, leather-like notes
and is a highly interesting note for use in chypre, tobacco, leather and fougère
types.
Castoreum Hyper Abs. Very powerful warm animal like scent.
Castoreum Oliffac An economical consistent quality substitute for castoreum.
Castoreum 172 SA Warm, animal, leather like sweet odor with distinct smoky note.
Castoreum Resin Strong and warm resembling birch tar oil.
Castoreum Resin Synthetic Excellent reproduction of the natural material.
Castoreum Resinoid Strong and warm leather like sweet odor of the beaver.
Castoreum Tincture A alcoholic prepared extract of the castoreum beaver quite characteristic
of the natural product.
Castorium Synthetic 172 SAB A very strong sweet animal odor typical of the beaver.
Castorium 10 " Pauls " Tenacious and warm birch tar like phenolic.
Castorium Tincture Warm animal leather like sweet odor.
Cedrafix Woody, cedar, leather.
Cedryl Acetate Woody slight leathery with earthy undertone resembles vetiver.

Di Ispropyl Phenol (DIP) Has a faint hydrocarbon phenolic type odor.

Hydrocarbon Resin S B Balsamic leather.

Iso Butyl Quinoline Used in chypre, leather and woody compositions. It is widely used
in masculine colognes where its vibrant, intense leather character

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Glen O. Brechbill 298

can be used to great advantage. Powerful and long lasting.

Leather Base FM1064 Fine leather goods, woody, animalic undertones.


Leather Base FM1064B More economical quality less costly then Leather Base FM1064.
Leather 3768 - LWS A powerful diffusive leather fragrance.

Suederal HT Concentrated true leather odor reminiscent of finest tanned hides.


Suederal LT Leather odor reminiscent of finest tanned hides with a lighter note.

2, 6, Xylenol Sweet rooty odor of leather.

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299 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Chypre Leather

CHYPRE LEATHER

Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include
Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including
Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of
course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS - 3768, and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great
care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that
includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling
strip well over a month.

Top Tangerine 2 %

Lime 1 %, Pineapple 1 %, Tangerine 2 %, Fruity

Bergamot 1 %

Middle Rose 3 %

Vertofix 5 % Jasmin 4 %, Carnation 1.5 %, Muguet 5 % Floral


Iso E Super 5 %
Amyl Salicylate .5 % Violet 3 %

Base Musk 7 %

Black Agar Resin 1 %, Tonka 1.5 % Sweet Leather

Leather 1.5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 300

Chypre Leather # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Birch Tar Oil rectified 8 Pine Oil 907


6 Tonalid .1 Birch White Rett Essence
11 Benzoato Benzila 6 Amyl Salicylate
3 Acetatyl Iso Eugenol 9 Lavender 40/42
15 Coumarin 53 Linalol S 97
27 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 8 Vetivert Oil - Bourbon
42 Iso E Super 3 Tangerinol
9 Sandalwood 1 Ionone
6 English Leather Base 1 Carnaline
4 Cedryl Acetate 50 .1 Fir Balsam Artessence
7 Koavonne 5 Methyl Cedryl Ketone For Soap
28 Di Isopropyl Phenol 1 Musk Emeressence
63 Galaxolide 4 Iso - Eugenol
38 Benzyl Acetate Coeur 1 Ambermor
7 Black Agar Givco 215 .1 Methyl Octine Carbonate
1 Cade Oil 2 Florhydral
14 Eugenol 4 Bangalol
45 Vetiver Extender 69 Linalyl Acetate
3 Labdanum Resinoide 4 Dimetol
8 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 13 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
6 Citronellol FCC 1 Fixateur 404
9 Organic Shampoo Base 3 Santalyl Acetate
13 Ionone Beta 12 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
22 Geraniol 98
8 Woodynol - I
7 Fir Balsam Canada 1,000
303 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
29 Acetato Iso Bornila
8 Lindenol
7 Dihydromyrcenol
.2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
17 Taqngerine Brazil
4 Lilial
11 Lavender Citrus Base

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301 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Leather # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

27 Di Iso Propyl Phenol ( DIP ) .3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA


.1 Civet Tincture 9 Di Hydro Myrcenol
.1 Cade Oil rectified .1 Linden Blossom
19 Coumarin Substitute 8 Vetiveryl Acetate Popular
10 Black Agar Givco 215 7 Lindenol
14 Benzyl Benzoate 4 Methyl Iso Eugenol
7 Anandol 9 Fresh Pineapple
9 Cedryl Acetate 50 % .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
.1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 8 Cedarwood Chinese
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Rootanol 100
7 Cuir de Russe .1 Aldehyde C - 11
48 Vertofix Coeur 4 Labdanum Resinoid
7 Benzoin Siam # 2 12 Florhydral
49 Vertofix Coeur 7 Benzyle Acetate
16 Pine Oil 900 5 Tangerine
23 Leather LWS - 3768 .8 Iridales
5 Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
9 Citronellol 6 Suderal LT
7 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 Corps Pamplemousse
1 Methyl Amyl Ketone 2 Liguvert ABQ 7061
8 Givescone .1 Anise Essence
13 Eugenol 100 % 3 Timberol
23 Geraniol 80 67 Linalyl Acetate
11 Methyl Ionone Beta
323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Hydrocarbon Resin SB 1,000
3 Cedrol Texas
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Atralone
6 Kephalis
53 Galaxolide Artense
39 Benzyl Acetate Coeur
42 Linalol
.1 Folione
8 Levenalis

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Glen O. Brechbill 302

Chypre Leather # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Birch Oil, Tar Rectified 1 Tangerinol


6 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid .1 Tea Tree Oil
23 2, 6 Xylenol 8 Lavender Oil 40/42
12 Benzyle Benzoate 3 Vetiveryl Acetate
5 Cedryl Acetate .3 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
43 Phthalate D’Ethyle 1 Valarian Root Oil
9 Benzyl Salicylate 10 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
14 Coumarin Pure 1 Teak 10995
23 Di Isopropyl Phenol 23 Citrus Retiulata - Tangerine
3 Rose Crystals 14 Suderal LT
10 Black Agar Givco 215 61 Linalol
9 Vetamber 3 Serenolide
4 Suderal LT 9 Di Hydro Myrcenol
25 Ionone Intermediate Base .1 Rosemary Leaves Oil
3 Base 3 4 Styrax Resinoide
42 Acetate De Benzyle 2 Turpentine SDW
29 Vetiver Extender .1 Iso Propyl Quinoline
4 Ionone For Soap 73 Linalyl Acetate Pure
2 Labdanum Resinoide 1 Methyl Camomile
48 Hidroxicitronelal 1 Santalum Citrinum
11 Citronellol 1 Carnaline
35 Musk Gx 50 % BB 2 Benzyl Iso Eugenol Forte
4 Di Metil Octanol 1 Poivre 125
12 Eugenol .1 Sage Oil Dalmatian 30 %
7 Iso & Super
20 Geraniol
328 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
3 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Symmusk
4 Ionone Beta
32 Iso E Super
7 Ocimene PQ
1 Basil Oil Sweet - USA
.1 Zedemina Essence
3 Mysoriff
.2 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA

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303 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Chypre Fresh

CHYPRE FRESH

A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have
a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.

Top Bergamot 6 %

Jasmin .5 %, Ylang Ylang .5 %, Grape 1 % Fresh Floral

Green Notes

Middle Muguet 2 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2.5 % Violet 8 %, Jasmin 7 %, Rose 6 % - Fruity Floral


Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Verdantiol 1 % Vetiver 4 %, Lavender 1 %
Methyl Benzoate .5 %
Patchouli 1.5 %
Base
Tonka 4 %, Sandalwood 3 %, Moss - Trace Warm Spicy

Musk 3 %, Opoponax - Trace, Myrrh - Trace


Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Glen O. Brechbill 304

Chypre Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

39 Coumarin Pure 4 Styrallyl Acetate


14 Pogostemon Cablin 5 Aurantiol
24 Benzyl Salicylate 9 Lavender Bulgaria Oil
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 3 DMBC - Acetate
1 Mousse De Metre 4 Carnaline
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
27 Osyrol 3 Vanilla Beans
32 Galaxolide 50 5 Methyl Anthranilate
1 Iso - Eugenol 1 Rose Acetate
23 Amyl Cinnamic Alehyde - KAO 8 Bergamote Italy
9 Armoise Tunisian 6 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
5 Opoponax Base 4 Methyl Benzoate
10 Amyl Salicylate 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde
44 Vetiver Extender 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
29 Ethylene Brassylate 2 Top Rose
63 MDJ 4 Veraflor
5 Sandalwood Oliffac 31 Linalyl Acetate
23 Ionone For Soap .7 Irisone Pure
.1 Evernyl 5 Meranol
6 Citronellol Prime 3 Sandalwood, India
13 Ionone 100 % .1 Rose Oxide R
1 Iso Jasmone 1 Muguet Alcohol
48 Geraniol 4 alpha - Ionone
1 Cedrafix
6 Methyl Lavender Ketone
1 Rose Crystals 1,000
58 Iraldeine Standard
311 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
5 Phenylethylalcohol
1 Geranium Oil
1 Geranyl Acetate
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
14 Bergamot Oil Italy
23 Linalool
2 Nutmeg Geranada

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305 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

39 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 9 Lavender Bulgaria Oil


14 Patchouli Oil MD 3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
27 Benzyle Salicylate 4 Carnation Flower
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
1 ( Lichen ) 3 Vanilla Beans
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Methyl Anthranilate
15 Osyrol 1 Rose Acetate
26 Galaxolide 50 8 Bergamote Italy
1 Iso - Eugenol 6 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
28 Amyl Cinnamic Alehyde 4 Methyl Benzoate
9 Armoise Tunisian 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde
3 Opoponax Base 3 Jasmone
10 Amyl Salicylate 2 Rose Orient
41 Vetiver Extender 4 Verdantiol
32 Ethylene Brassylate 31 Linalyl Acetate
51 Hedione .7 Irisone Pure
5 Sandalwood Oliffac 5 Meranol
27 Ionone For Soap 3 Sandalwood, India
.1 Florymoss - Givaudan .1 Rose Oxide R
6 Citronellol Prime 1 Muguet Alcohol
13 Ionone 100 % 4 alpha - Ionone
1 Iso Jasmone
48 Geraniol Pure
1 Cedrafix 1,000
6 Methyl Lavender Ketone
1 Rose Crystals
47 Iraldeine Standard
329 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
8 Phenylethylalcohol
1 Geranium Oil
1 Geranyl Acetate Pure
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
25 Bergamot Oil Substitute
23 Linalool
2 Nutmeg Geranada
4 Styrallyl Acetate
5 Aurantiol

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Glen O. Brechbill 306

Chypre Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

39 Coumarin cryst. 3 DMBC - Acetate


14 Pogostemon Cablin 4 Carnation Flower
27 Benzyle Salicylate 8 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
3 Heliotropine 3 Vanilla Beans
1 Mousse De Metre 5 Methyl Anthranilate
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Rose Acetate
27 Osyrol 1 Bergamote Italy
29 Galaxolide 50 6 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
3 Iso - Eugenol 4 Methyl Benzoate
24 Amyl Cinnamic Alehyde - KAO 1 Cyclamen Aldehyde
8 Armoise Tunisian 3 Jasmone
3 Opoponax Base 2 Top Rose
10 Amyl Salicylate 4 Verdantiol
41 Vetiver Extender 31 Linalyl Acetate
32 Ethylene Brassylate .7 Irisone Pure
66 MDJ 5 Rose Acetate
5 Sandalwood Oliffac 3 Sandalwood, India
20 Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur .1 Rose Oxide R
.1 Evernyl 1 Muguet Alcohol
6 Citronellol Prime 4 alpha - Ionone
13 Ionone 100 %
1 Iso Jasmone
48 Geraniol 1,000
1 Cedrafix
8 Methyl Lavender Ketone
1 Rose Crystals
47 Iraldeine Standard
332 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Geranium Oil
1 Geranyl Acetate Pure
.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
9 Bergamot Oil Substitute
23 Linalol S 97
2 Nutmeg Oil W.I.
4 Styrallyl Acetate
5 Aurantiol
9 Lavender Oliffac
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307 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrance’s - Chypre Green

CHYPRE GREEN

The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often
Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.

Top Bergamot 5 % - Fruity

Cassis 1 %, Peach 2 %, Pineapple 1.5 % Floral Green

Green Notes, Violet Notes, Neroli .5 %, Apple - Trace

Middle Argumen 2 %

Iso E Super 8 % Rose 7 %, Lily 1 %, Muguet 9 % Fresh Floral


Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 %
Amyl Salicylate 1 % Jasmin 6 %, Hawthorn 1 %, Carnation .5 %, Reseda .5 %

Base Moss - Trace

Sandalwood 3 %, Musk 3 %, Vanilla 1 %, Woody

Patchouli 2 %

Cutters

Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 34 %

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308 Glen O. Brechbill

Chypre Green # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)


27 Sandalwood Extender
1 Evernyl 72 Geraniol
.1 Civet Augalfor 5 1 Neroli Oil
75 Iso & Super 3 Bergamot FCF Green Gr. 1
6 Vanalina 14 Linalol
38 Benzyle Salicylate 5 Irone Alfa
4 Massada .2 Di Ethyl Malonate
9 Patchouli Oil J 871 1 Florhydral
8 Anisaldehyde PQ 19 Aldeido C - 14
.1 Rosalva 3 Myraldyl Acetate
7 Hydroxycitronellal 55 23 Linalyl Actate Synthetic
1 Iso Jasmone .1 Rose Turkish Abs. - Turkey
20 Argumen Substitute 4 Methyl Ionone Gamma
11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Pearalate
65 Super Cepionate 1 Scennal
.1 Alcool C - 8 1 Jasmone
9 Lilie 16 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
.1 Rose Orient .1 Nonadienal
4 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Top Galbanum 18.326
5 Reseda Body 1 Mugone S 207M
91 Hydoxycitronellal Extender 3 Irone V
4 Nerol .1 Leaf Acetal
11 Eugenol 1 Nerol Petals
9 Amyl Salicylate 1 Tangerine Oil Natural
329 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Mallow
4 Citronellol 1,000
3 Amyris Oil W.I.
14 Rose For Soap Base
3 Apple Oliffac S
.1 Orange Essence Oil
6 Phenylethylalcohol
9 Brahmanol F
4 Meijiff
3 Oxanone

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309 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Chypre Green # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Meijiff


27 Sandela 3 Raspberry Leaves
1 Evernyl 75 Geraniol 60
.1 Civet Powder # 1A 1 Neroli Oil
75 Iso & Super 3 Bergamot FCF Green Gr. 1
4 Vanalina 14 Linalol
38 Benzyl Salicylate 5 Irone Alfa
4 Massada .2 Di Ethyl Malonate
9 Patchouli Oil J 871 1 Myraldyl Acetate
8 Aubepine 19 Aldeido C - 14
.1 Polarose 3 Myraldyl Acetate
7 Hydroxycitronellal 55 23 Linalyl Actate Synthetic
1 Iso Jasmone .1 Rose Turkish Abs. - Turkey
24 Argumen Substitute 4 Methyl Ionone Gamma
11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Pearalate
63 Super Cepionate 1 Scennal
.1 Alcool C - 8 1 Jasmone
9 Lilie 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
.1 Adoxal .1 Nonadienal
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Top Galbanum 18.326
5 Reseda Body 1 Mugone S 207M
90 Hydoxycitronellal Extender 3 Irone V
4 Nerol .1 Leaf Acetal
11 Eugenol 1 Nerol
14 Amyl Salicylate 1 Tangerinol
327 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Mallow
4 Citronellol 1,000
3 Indisan
14 Rose For Soap Base
3 Apple Oliffac S
.1 Orange Essence Oil
6 Phenylethylalcohol
9 Brahmanol

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Glen O. Brechbill 310

Chypre Green # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Meijiff


27 Sandalwood Extender 3 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
1 Evernyl 72 Geraniol 98 %
.1 Civet Ethopia 1 Neroli Oil
75 Iso E Super 3 Bergamot FCF Green Gr. 1
6 Vanalina 14 Linalol
38 Benzyle Salicylate 5 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
4 Massada .2 Di Ethyl Malonate
9 Patchouli Oil J 871 1 Florhydral
4 Anisaldehyde PQ 19 Aldeido C - 14
.1 Rosalva 3 Myraldyl Acetate
5 Hydroxycitronellal A 23 Linalyl Actate Synthetic
1 Methyl Jasmonate pure .1 Rose Abs/
22 Argumen Substitute 4 Methyl Ionone Gamma
11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Perryfix
63 Super Cepionate 1 Scennal
.1 Alcool C - 8 1 Jasmone
13 Lilie 16 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
.1 Alpha Damascone .1 Nonadienal
4 Ethyl, Vanillin 4 Top Galbanum 18.326
7 Reseda Body 1 Mugone S 207M
103 Hydoxycitronellal Extender 3 Irone V
4 Nerol .1 cis -3 - hexenyl Salicylate
11 Methyl Iso Eugenol 1 Nerol Petals
9 Amyl Salicylate 1 Tangerine Oil Brazil
318 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
1 Scennal
4 Citronellol nat. 1,000
3 Amyris
14 Rose For Soap Base
3 Apple Oliffac S
.1 Orange Essence Oil
6 Phenylethylalcohol
9 Brahmanol

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311 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fragrance Chemicals

Abbarome 011 Citrus, herbal, fresh.


Acerola Any of various species of the genus Malpighia. The fruit has a citrusy like
fragrance sweet and fresh.
Acetate C - 10 Sweet fatty fruity odor of pineapple orange.
Alcohol C - 8 Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy & sweet odor.
Alcohol C - 11 Lenic Fresh rather fatty odor, citrusy waxy rosy, petal like note.
Alcohol C - 11 Saturated Oily fruity floral citrussy odor slight fatty overall fresh.
Aldehyde C - 10 Powerful sweet waxy orange peel like odor.
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor.
Aldehyde C - 12 MOA An aldehyde with a citrus tangerine note.
Aldehyde Mandarine 10 % A mandarin orange fresh and citrusy.
Aldenal C - 9 Blend of saturated unsaturated aldehydes powerful fresh and waxy citrus.
Aldenal C - 10 Blend of powerful, fresh citrus odor.
Alpha Terpinene Refreshing lemony citrusy odor.
Auralva Neroli orange, muguet, grape odored schiff's base.

Bergamal Refreshing, aldehydic lemon, petitgrain note.


Bergamot Augaflor 4 Characteristically bergamot, this compounded specialty has a
fruity, woody, slightly sweet fragrance. Can be used up to 5 %
in many medias.
Bergamot Eco Essence A sweet fruity odor typical of the bergamot orange.
Bergamot FCC Rich sweet fruity.
Bergamot Givco 104 This reconstitution is bergapten-free and has no phototoxic potential. This
is a bergamot that replaces the essential oil with superior stability and
performance in functional products.
Bergamot LCNP Alternative to bergamot, low cost non phototoxic.
Bergamot NPT Closely resembles odor of bergamot oil, non phototoxic.
Bergamot Oil Italian A fresh odor of the delightful bergamot natural source is Italy.
Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast Sweet fruity bergamot odor that smells right off the west coast of
Africa.
Bergamot Oil Non Sensitizing Characteristic of the natural oil with natual sensitizing components
removed in our special distillation process.
Bergamot Oil Rectified A natural bergamot oil fragrance rectified to enhance its effect in
many different fragrance formulations.

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Glen O. Brechbill 312

Bergamot Oil Reconst. Juicy, natural reconstitution.


Bergamot Super Oliffac Low cost simulation of the bergamot note for general purposes.
Bergamot Terpeneless Extra Extremely smooth dry and clean of sweet bergamot.
Bergamote 17.530 SA Rich, sweet fruity initial odor with balsamic body and dry out.
Bergamyl Acetate A sweet bergamot orange fragrance.
Beta Pinene Coeur Pine, citrus, lime.
Bitter Orange NPT Odor similar to the West Indies bitter orange oil free of phtototoxicity.
Bitter Orange Oil Cold Pressed A citrusy orange type odor.
Bitter Orange Oil 5 Fold Slightly bitter but yet fruity citrusy orange odor.
Bitter Orange Oliffac 301 Economical replacement for West Indies bitter orange oil dry citrus.

Cedrat Peel Oil A citrus fruit that resembles the lemon in appearance.
Cedrat Petitgrain Oil Oil obtained from the leaves and twigs of the sour orange.
Citracetal Citrus like odor, close to citral in it's strength.
Citral Powerful lemony fragrance.
Citral Di Ethyl Acetal Fine, fresh, citrusy stable in alkalis, fresher then nitrile.
Citral Di Methyl Acetal Has a milder but much more natural lemon odor than citral.
Citral Di Methyl Acetal Pure Very pleasant, floral lemon note.
Citral Extra Finest quality of citral.
Citral 700 Strong lemon odor suitable for chemical intermediate use.
Citral 750 Grade suitable for chemical intermediate use.
Citral 850 Clean, fresh citrus lemon odor.
Citral 900 Intermediate grade, citrus lemon odor.
Citral Residues A verbana grassy sweet type odor very diffusive.
Citral Terpenes Harsh citral lemon odor.
Citral X Lemon Fresh, juicy lemon peel, with a sweet tang nuance.
Citral X Litsea Powerful, fresh top note, lemon.
Citralex Fresh lemon, clean citrus odor resembling citral.
Citralva Powerful oily green lemony fresh odor.
Citralva Plus Intense lemon character, non discoloring.
Citrathal Distinctive fresh lemon lime lasts one day.
Citrathanil ABQ7023 Is more green floral and tenacious lemon then agrudor.
Citric Acid Amhydrus A crystalline acid with a pleasant acid taste.
Citrilys Givco 169 A pleasant citrus accord which evokes freshly squeezed tangerine peel blended
with floral marine notes, giving it an unusual sparkling zest. The fruity back
ground enhances the composition's natural aspect. Extremely diffusive and
long-lasting, it performs well in most functional product bases. Designed for
use as a top and middle note, it gives freshness and volume to all citrus, floral
and green accords.
Citrofuran AB5531 Is a more lavandacious citrus complex containing rhubafuran.
Citronal Fruity.
Citron Leaf Rectified Oil Tree native to asia having lemon like fruit with aromatic rind.
Citronalva Citrus, lemon, aldehydic, metallic.
Citronama Intense orange, ginger, palmarosa with ozone muguet aspects.

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313 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citronellal Powerful fresh green citrusy, slight woody odor.


Citropal Moderate citrus type odor.
Citrotone B Clean fresh fruit odor generally citrus, for all citrus types.
Citrus Base Strong odor to lemon peels similar to melissa oil.
Citrus Terpenes Based on d-Limonene this fresh citrusy fragrance is a perfumers
delight helping to create fresh fruit blends and bases.
Citryl Acetate Includes features of bergamot oil with delicate lemon top note.
Citryl Nitrile A very strong lemon form of citral not pleasant lemon odor.
Citryl Nitrile B - 1313 Dry hay like, fresh lemon, citral note.
Clonal Dry orange peel note for citrus, bergamot cologne types.

Decanol Natural A diffusive natural orange, but not of great tenacity.


Decanal - 4 - Trans Is an exceptionally strong and diffusive chemical. Used mainly as a
top note ingredient, it produces a fresh, natural, citrus-like effect,
imparting tremendous lift.
Di Hydro Linalool Fresh floral citrusy.
Di Hydro Myrcenol Powerful fresh lime like.
Di Hydro Myrcenyl Acetate Sparkling, fresh lime, lavender lasts one hour.
Di Hydro Terpineol Floral, citrus, lime pine.
Di Hydro Terpinyl Acetate Fresh piney citrusy.
D ' Limonene Citrus orange.
Di Methyl Anthranilate Heavy orange blossom mandarin peel odor.
Di Methyl Octenone Can be used to great advantage in citrus accords where it underlines the natural
bitterness of the fruit. Its combination with fresh notes is much appreciated for
the difusion that it brings to compositions. Its utilization with certain modern
accords can give original and natural grapefruit character.
Dimetol Powerful lime cologne like odor similar to di hydro myrcenol.
Di Myrcetol Fresh citrus lime like odor.
Dipentene 122 Fresh and sweet citrusy lemon.

Elemi Essence Fresh lemon like.


Elemi Oil Fresh spicy lemon.
Elemi Resinoid Fresh terpeney peppery lemon.
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate Is softer, more floral, more bergamot and less lavender than Linalyl Acetate. It
has an elegant, refreshing effect in floral bouquets.

Feuilles D ' Oranger Abs. Reconstituted feuilles d ' oranger.


Feuilles E ' Oranger Abs. Eau Floral odor of feuilles d ' oranger.

Gamma Terpenes Citrus odor.


Geraldehyde Intense aldehydic note with marine, floral and citrus moieties.
Geranonitrile Fruity green, lemon.
Gloria ABQ7022 Is a more citrusy fantasy base with a musky dry down.
Grapefruit Oil 5 Fold Citrusy grapefruit slightly sweeter then grapefruit oil of Florida.

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Glen O. Brechbill 314

Grapefruit Oil of Florida Tangy, citrusy grapefruit nice and fresh.


Grapefruit Oil Nardenised A tingling, fresh deterpenised oil lasts several weeks.
Grapefruit Oil Terpenes Fresh citrusy rather sweet odor.
Grapefruit Base # 15794 B A typical odor of a very ripe grapefruit.
Grapefruit Body Fleurom Extremely powerful green grapefruit odor.
Grapefruitone Is a sweet fruity specialty with a grapefruit rind character.

Helioforte Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.


Heliomet Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.
2, 4 Hexadien 1 AL Fresh, spicy green, floral citrusy odor used as top note.
Hexadienal 2 Trans 4 Trans Green fruity aldehydic citrus use in melon, kiwi, tropical fruit.
Hypo-Lem Citrus, aldehydic lemon.

Iso Bornyl Cyclo Citral A citrus lemon fruit type odor.

Jonquille Jacinthe Abs. A moderate orange that is yellower and stronger then honey dew.

Khadija Musk, ambre, citrus oriental bouquet.

Leila Lilacs in full bloom spiced with a hint of bergamot. A romantic


spring bouquet conjuring visions of victorian elegance and the
Belle Epoque.
Lemarome N Extensively used for its lemon effect in cologne blends. Is also
extremely useful in certain floral compositions where it imparts
a unique natural freshness.
Lemon Basil Oil The citral content of 41% gives this oil a verbena like quality
while the basil side is not very evident.
Lemon Essence HC Free A natural oil which has had terpene, and sequisterpenes removed.
Lemon Givco 112 This base is an imitation of natural lemon odour that in addition has excellent
stability and substantivity in all kinds of finished products. This Givco was
especially developed for difficult bases like H.D.L.D. and H.D.P.D. Has strong
diffusion & good impact on wet laundry.
Lemongrass Oil Chinese Strong grassy lemon type.
Lemongrass Oil Cochin Otherwise known as East Indian lemongrass oil. The finest essential
oils odor varies depending on content of citral and other components.
Lemongrass Oil Guatemala A very strong grassy lemon type.
Lemongrass Oil Indian Citral content lower then above, but at same time similar.
Lemongrass Oil Nardenised Lemon fresh, deterpenised oil lasts a few days.
Lemongrass Oil Rectified Appears more lemony and sweet less verbena.
Lemongrass Oil Terpeneless A verbena green grassy odor free from harsh terpenes.
Lemonile Is used in lemon, verbena and lime compositions where it imparts freshness
and diffusion. This nitrile is an extremely powerful chemical and has excellent
stability in alkaline media.
Lemon Isolate Is a natural distilled product with a fresh juicy tart lemon.

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315 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lemon Juicy Fresh juicy lemon with a sweet citral terpeney nuance.
Lemon Oil Typical lemon and refreshing.
Lemon Oil 5 Fold Purer sweeter lemon.
Lemon Oil Italian A lemon which is sweet and juicy from Italy.
Lemon Oil of California Sweet juicy lemon.
Lemon Oil Reconstructed A reconstituted fragrance closely resembling the essential oil.
Lemon Oil Spanish Sweet, fruity odor of lemon, source Spain.
Lemon Oil Synthetic Low cost reconstitution lasts one day.
Lemon Oil Washed A slightly lighter and sweeter juicy lemon.
Lemon Petitgrain Oil Strong fresh odor with a woody dry out.
Lemonrone Lemonrone Powerful lemon fragrance very chemical like.
Lemon Terpenes Mildly lemon.
Lemorale Brisk fresh top note useful for lemon limes bergamot herbal.
Lemon 360 A slightly sweet fruity lemon odor.
Lemsyn Synthetic citral.
Lime AB402 Sweet yet sharp lasts a few weeks.
Lime Blossom The oil made from the flowers has a fresh green muguet lily like fragrance.
Can be used as a floralizer to create interesting effects in many blends.
Lime Exp. H C Free A natural oil which has terpene and sequesterpene removed.
Lime Expressed NPT Similar odor to the natural expressed oil free of phototoxic.
Lime Oil Distilled A tart sour ball candy like lime odor, very sweet.
Lime Oil Distilled 4 Fold W.I. A tart lime odor vacum distilled for terpene removal.
Lime Oil # 410 Oily sweet fruity lime.
Lime Oil 4 Fold Sweeter juicer resulting from vacum distillation process.
Lime Oil Expressed A lime fragrance fresh from the peel very reminiscent.
Lime Oil Expressed 4 Fold W.I. A fresh slightly tart peel like in sweetness lime odor.
Lime Oil Nardenised Sweet, pure deterpinseed oil with petitgran character on dry out.
Lime Oil Reconstructed A reconstituted oil closely resembling the odor of a lime.
Lime Oil Roses Type Sweet, juicy, candy lime like with a fresh peel character.
Lime Terpenes Lime.
Lime Oil Terpeneless Lime oil with the terpenes removed.
Lime Oil Sequisterpeneless Lime oil terpene free.
Lime Oxide Adds freshness and intensity to perfumes designed for functional products
It is also a powerful citrus booster with excellent stability in many applications
applications, including bleach.
Limetol Is used where a lemon-woody note is desired. It also offers pine needle and
lime nuances.
Limettal ABQ5701 Tingling, fresh floral aldehydic, long lasting.
Limettene Very strong pleasant fresh citrus note.
Limonene - D Fresh and light sweet citrussy odor resembles orange peel.
Limonene 130 Fresh hydrocarbon type lemon odor.
Limonene Tech. Fresh clean citrus odor of the orange.
Linaloe Wood Essence Floral rose citrus, soft and sweet.

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Glen O. Brechbill 316

Linalyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity odor, bergamot, pear.


Linalyl Acetate Synthetic Widely used for its typical bergamot freshness and lavender characteristic.
Linalyl Benzoate Balsamic floral bergamot fruity odor.
Linalyl Butyrate Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like.
Linalyl Cinnimate Mild and balsamic sweet.
Linalyl Formate Fresh citrusy green bergamot like.
Linalyl Iso Butyrate More floral less fruity then n butyrate.
Linalyl Propionate Fruity floral fresh very sweet bergamot.
Litsea Cubeba Rectified Oil Intense citrus fruity lemon like.
Litsea Cubeba Terpenes Now as sweet as regular litsea cubeba.
Lolitol Fresh floral muguet with citrus nuances.

Mandarin AB646 The juicy zest base is built around citrathal.


Mandarin Oliffac Sweet characteristic citrus mandarin note.
Mandarinal A powerful fresh citrus aldehydic mandarin orange.
Mandarinal 32.048 SA Powerful, fresh citrus aldehydic note of mandarin.
Mandarin Ald. 10 Citrate An aldehydic mandarin orange.
Mandarin Italian Select Intensely sweet not very fresh orange odor.
Melissa Oil Has a sweet fresh lemon like scent.
Melissa Resinoid A herb obtained by distilling lemon oil over the herb.
Methanyl Acetate Piney citrusy type odor.
Methyl Octyl Ketone Powerful citrusy orange.
Mugol Extra Soft woody, citrus lime note with floral aspects.
Myrcene Refreshing almost citrussy.
Myrcenol 50 An excellent cologne note with a citrus lime quality.
Myrcenol Super Fresh, citrus.
Myrcenyl Acetate Sweet citrus.

Nardozeste ABQ5031 Powerful, dry lemon peel note.


Neoproxen Herbal, leafy, green citrus.
Neral Crude 88 % Sweet floral citral lemony type fragrance.
Nerger Formate Tangy, sweet citrusy, lime, lemon, bergamot odor.
Nerol Coeur Moderately priced lemon verbena note dominating the rosy.
Nerol G A powerful refreshing, clean lemon rose odor.
Neryl Geranyl Acetate Citrus sweet floral.
Nonanal Di Methyl Acetal Refreshing, citrus, floral green odor.
Nootkatone Purified Citrus grapefuit odor.

Octacetal Fresh, clean citrus character reminiscent of orange.


Orafleur Powerful neroli, orange flower note, fresh and diffusive.
Orange Aldehyde Powerful, dilution - sweet orange like, fatty odor.
Orange Carbinyl Fruity orange.
Orange Carbonyls Natural orange juice odor.
Orange Des Indes 68A817 A nice clean fresh orange odor with a discreet spicy note.

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317 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Orange Essence Oil A natural oil free from terpene and sequesterpenes.
Orange Flavor Zing. Green, fresh juicy sweet orange for juicy top notes in citrus blends.
Orange Flower Absolute Has a very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate and fresh,
long lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh bitter orange blossoms.
Although this absolute certainly has notes in common with jasmin absolute, it
has a much more versatile application as a floral fond when used at a compara-
tively low concentration. It shows a pleasant, but peculiar and characteristic,
sweet herbaceous backnote, not unlike the one found in jasmin.
Orange Flower Bitter Very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate and fresh, long
lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh bitter orange blossoms.
Orange Flower Concrete A dark, brownish or orange brown paste or soft mass. Its odor is extremely
strong, floral, deep sweet, with a peculiar woody breadcrust like backnote and
great tenacity in floral notes. In high dilution, it is strikingly reminiscent of the
odor of fresh orange blossoms.
Orange Flower Ether Citrus grapefuit note also reminiscent of bergamot orange.
Orange Guinea Oil Sweet fruity, reminiscent of the orange peel.
Orange Isolate Has odor of natural peel, juicy with a rich aldehydic tone.
O.J. Carbinyl STD Very juicy with an orange top note.
O.J. Carbinyl VCV Orange, source is most likely valencia oranges.
Orange Juice Extract Natural 4/10 Very characteristic of freshly squeezed oranges without the pulp or slight bitter
taste that naturally occurs in the fresh fruit. Overall a delightful fragrance suit-
able for many different creative blends.
Orange Oil Bitter Bright bitter odor of oranges.
Orange Oil California Sweet orange peel like odor.
Orange Oil Distilled Orange peel like slightly less sweet and juicy.
Orange Oil 5 Fold A very weak orange peel like odor.
Orange Oil Fla. Mid Season Fruity orange.
Orange Oil Guinea C.P. Orange, source Guinea, a country located on the west coast of Africa.
Orange Oil Nardenised A beautiful sweet, deterpenised oil.
Orange Residue Orange peel type odor, however not sweet like california oranges.
Orange Oil Sweet Sweet fruity odor of oranges.
Orange Terpenes Sweet fruity orange.
Orange Terpeneless A nice light rich very smooth orange odor.
Orange Terpeneless Sweet fruity orange peel like, very nice.
Orange Oil Terpeneless Special A A sweet fruity very smooth orange soda like odor.
Orange Oil Terpeneless Extra A delicately sweet orange peel odor reminiscent of orange preserves.
Orange Terpeneless X 5 Fold A very weak pure orange odor.
Orange Oil Valencia Orange, source valencia type florida oranges.
Orange Wax A real orange peel like odor, neither sweet or juicy.
Oranger Crystals Sweet and very tenacious orange blossom.
Oranger Guiena Essence Sweet fruity and characteristic of orange peel.
Oranger Liquid Sweet floral rather harsh orange blossom.
Ozonil Very strong fruity reminiscent of nuances in orange and mandarin oil.

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318 Glen O. Brechbill

Pamplefleur Citrus, grapefruit, floral vetivert.


Petitgrain Abs. The best of petitgrain oil free of terpenic harsh by notes.
Petitgrain Bigarade Abs. A beautiful product where the sulphur notes of petitgrain are
muted. Has a green tea, citrus like woody note representing
the essential oil to its finest.
Petitgrain Bigarade Oil Pleasant fresh floral sweet odor.
Petitgrain Citronnier Oil Distinct and pleasant, a fresh lemony floral woody odor.
Petitgrain Oil Moroc Sur Fleurs Fresh floral citrus scent and a woody-herbaceous undertone.
Petitgrain Oil Mandarin A fresh lemony floral woody odor extremely tenacious.
Petitgrain Oil Paraguay Strong, bitter sweet, woody floral odor. The topnote is somewhat harsh, but it
quickly gives way to a heavy and sweet bodynote of typical petitgrain character,
bitter floral, with a sweet and slightly woody backnote. The dryout, which
comes quickly since the odor of this oil is not very tenacious, is sweet and
slightly woody floral. According to the age of the oil, there are wide variations
in the topnote of its odor. Most often, the topnote smells like the topnote of
crude bois de rose oil, almost nutmeg like and warm spicy.
Petitgrain Oil S A A fresh lemony floral woody odor.
Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless Diffusive less bitter sweet floral woody odor.
Psuedo Linalyl Acetate Citrus, bergamot floral lavender.

Rhodinol Augaflor 18 This crisp, citrusy type compound can implant an element of Lemon in a per
fume. Gives the finished fragrance a freshness of smell, and touch much sought
after.
Schiff Base Ligantraal, green citrus, orange blossom best in 10 % solution.
Sino Citral Fresh citral lemony with a floral background.
Sinocitril ABQ4020 Powerful aldehydic floral which has an enhanced tangerine character.
Stymonile ABQ7020 Is a zesty citrusy, radiant, ozone fresh complex.

Tamarine Base 41.310 Very diffusive and natural note of the green mandarine.
Tangelo Oil The fragrance is a cross between a grapefruit and a tangerine. They
have become a popular fruit commercially, since they are larger
than tangerines with less seeds. Altogether fresh and citrusy.
Tangerine Essence Fruity, characteristic sweet tangy tangerine.
Tangerine Oil Fresh sweet odor reminiscent of valencia oranges.
Tangerine Oil Florida Fresh sweet odor of valencia oranges.
Tangerine Terpenes Fresh sweet fruity odor of valencia oranges.
Tangerine Type Oil Sweet tangy tangerine like reminiscent of the peel.
Tangeris Givco 212 A pleasant citrus accord that evokes freshly squeezed tangerine peel, blended
with floral, marine notes that give it an unusual sparkling zest. The fruity back
ground enhances the composition's natural aspect. Extremely diffusive and
long-lasting, it performs well in most functional product bases. Designed for
use as a top and middle note, it gives freshness and volume to all citrus, floral
and green accords.

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319 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Terpinene Gamma Terpeney, sweet, citrus with tropical and lime nuances.
Terpinyl Acetate Extra Sweet slightly herbaceous of the bergamot lavender.
Terpinyl Acetate (CST) Sweet, herbal, bergamot pure.
Terpinyl Acetate (GUM) Sweet, herbal, bergamot lavender.
Tetra Hydro Mugol Coeur Floral, citrus woody.
Tetra Hydro Myrcenol Citrus, lime, sweet juicy.
Triplal Powerful citrus green.
Triplal Extra Green, citrus, herbal, aldehydic.

Unitene D Piney lemony type odor.

Vandor B Aldehydic, green, citrus fatty.


Vertocitral Strong grassy green note, citric, somewhat herbal camphor like.

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Glen O. Brechbill 320

Masculine Fragrance’s - Citrus Floral

CITRUS FLORAL

A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note.

Top Lime 5 %

Hexyl Salicylate 1 % Grapefruit 4 %, Mandarin 1.5 %, Bergamot 9 % - Fruity Citrus


Vanoris 1 %
Green Notes .3 %, Pineapple 1 %, Basil 1 %

Middle Lavender 3 %

Vertofix 2 % Violet # %, Muguet 4 %, Carnation 3 % Fresh Floral


Iso E Super 2 %
Pine Oil 3 % Jasmin 7 %

Base Musk 1 %

Sandalwood 2 %, Tonka 1.5 %, Vanilla .5 % Balsamic

Patchouli 2 %

Bases:

Orange Base, Bergamot Base, d’Limonene Substitute

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 20 %

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321 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Floral # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

8 Sandela 5 Verdyl Acetate


14 Coumane 13 Hexyle Salicylate
10 Benzyl Alcohol 51 Dihydromyrcenol
3 Vanalina 44 Linalool Synthetic
11 Sandec Givco 3 Grapefruit Body Fleurom
40 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 11 Iso Nonyl Acetate
1 Mousse De Chenne 3 Styrallylacetate
.1 Spirambrene .1 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
9 Iso E Super 35 Grapefruit California C.P. Pink
24 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Muguet Alcohol
8 Gamma Terpenes 6 Cycloprop
.1 Oranger Crystals 1 Levenalis
4 Indisan 9 Dimetol
2 Ethyl Vanillin 4 Myraldyl Acetate
31 Hydroxycitronellal A 53 Linalyl Acetate
223 d’Limonene Substitute 1 Grapefruitone
9 Para Cymene .1 Nonadienal
1 Folrosia .1 Ocimenyl Acetate
15 Carnation Base 1 Citronella Oil
19 Methyl Lavender Ketone 3 Bergamot
21 Geraniol 98 % .4 Aurantesin
5 Myrcene 1 Clemenflor
3 Citronellol 1 Lemonile
4 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol 1 Santal
147 Hercolin - D .1 Aromabase Strawberry
9 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 1 Bourgenal
3 Geranyl Acetate
77 Hedione
5 Diola 1,000
7 Lyral
.1 Aldehyde C - 11
28 Bergamit Oil Substitute
8 Vertofix
7 Allyl Amyl Glycolate

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Glen O. Brechbill 322

Citrus Floral # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

11 Musk 50 DPG 5 Methyl Chavicole


13 Benzyl Alcohol 3 Acetate De Styralyle
.1 Lichen 6 Clonal
7 Sandalore 11 Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
15 Cou Marin 31 Linalol
23 Benzyle Salicylate 6 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
16 Iso E Super 38 Grapefruit Oil White Indian
3 Heliomet 6 Lysmeral
28 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1 Santalol
11 Vanisal 5 Mandarine, Itlaian C.P.
14 Patchouli Oil Light 63 Linalyl Acetate
4 Citronellal 24 Dihydro Myrcenol
5 Ionone Alpha 60 3 Bergamot Oil ( Misc Origins )
41 Muguet Base 11 Verdyl Propionate
73 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 5 Dimetol
9 Eugenol .1 Leaf Alcohol
8 Myrcene 2 Grapefruitone
4 Citronellol 3 Ocimene PQ
8 Lavandulas 4 Alpha Ionone 70 %
195 D’Limonene Substitute 3 Citralva
6 Vanillinethyl .1 Orange Essence Oil
19 Geraniol 60 .1 Bay Leaves
65 Hercolyn - D
1 Iso Eugenol
3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
7 Lavender Oliffac
55 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
11 Gamma Terpenes
4 Methyl Ionone Gamma
11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
16 Vanoris ( Iso Nonyl Acetate )
3 Laurine - Givaudan
38 Grapefruit Oil South African C.P.
9 Hexyl Salicylate

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323 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Floral # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

7 Rhodiascent 3 Acetate De Styralyle


6 Cedrenyl Acetate 11 Bergamot Oil Substitute
19 Alcool Benzilico 9 Natural Nootkatone 80 - 85 %
22 Patchouli Oil Indonesia 13 Dimetol
14 Sandela 7 Iso Nonyl Acetate
20 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Aldeido C - 10
1 Moss Oliffac 39 Grapefruit Cyprus White
3 Vanillin .1 Undecatriene 10 %
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Methanyl Acetate
6 Levinalis 2 Scennal
27 Vertofix 1 Lemon Essence Oil
58 Benzyl Acetate .1 Peach Blossom FM 1042
1 Jasmone 27 Lime Oil Washed
250 d Limonene Substitute 4 Mandarinal
3 Lioral 1 Fruitalire
8 Pin Silvestre de France i.n. .3 Cyclamen Aldehyde
115 Hercolyn - D 6 Verdyl Acetate
3 Iso Amyl Geranate 3 Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso
5 Koavonne 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
9 Eugenol 1 Berryflor
6 Citronellol Coeur 2 Verdyl Propionate
2 Vanillinethyl 53 Linalyl Acetate
23 Jasmin Artificial Base 4 Litsea Cubeba Oil
.1 Lichen
14 Geraniol
7 Citralva 1,000
12 Benzyle Benzoate
1 Methyl Lavender Ketone
22 Citral 750
7 Ionone Alpha
27 Lemongrass Oil Java
41 Linalol
16 Dihydromyrcenol
3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Hexyl Salicylate

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Glen O. Brechbill 324

Masculine Fragrance’s - Citrus Fantasy

CITRUS FANTASY

A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of
many different citrus notes to produce different effects.

Top Bergamot 10 %

Orange 9 %, Lemon 4 %, Grapefruit 2 % Fresh Citrus

Lemongras 1 %, Peach 1.5 %, Neroli 1 %, Verbena .5 %, Apple - Trace

Middle Vetiver 1.5 %

Jasmin 7 %, Muguet 3.5 %, Rose 2 % Floral

Violet 4 %, Lavender 2 %

Base Vanilla 2 %

Moss - Trace, Sandalwood 3 %, Tonka .5 % Warm

Patchouli 2 %, Pine 1 %

Bases:

Bergamot, Lemon Arizona, Orange, Orange Flower

Cutters

Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 19 %

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325 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fantasy # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Benzyl Benzoate 3 Neral, Refined 60 - 63 %


5 Cumarone 3157 P 7 Lime Oil Washed
4 Vanilline 14 Verdox
25 Sandalwood Extender .1 Aldehyde C - 31
.1 Mousse De Metre 35 Linalool Extra 99 %
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50
14 Vertofix Coeur .1 Feuilles D’ Oranger Abs.
17 Patchouli Oil F 867 .3 Raspberry Ketone
3 Oranger Crystals 1 Verotyl
20 Gamma Terpenes 3 Citroflex # 2
1 Jasmone 47 Linalyl Acetate Ex Petitgrain
3 Sandela 6 Methyl Pamplemousse
24 Benzyl Salicylate 17 Lemon Oil of California
6 Pine Oil White .1 Leaf Alcohol
3 Muskylein 1 Clonal
14 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur 11 Aldehyde C - 14
3 Iso Amyl Geranate 3 Helioforte
27 Hydroxycitronellol synthetic 2 Citrilys Givco 169
9 Iso Eugenol Replacement 15 Lemongrass Paraguay
63 Super Cepionate 3 Perryfix
4 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra 8 Myrcenyl Acetate - IFF
11 Citronellol 80 33 Orange Terpenes
163 Dipentene 122
9 Citronella Oil Ceylon
1 Undecatriene 10 % 1,000
28 Hercolyn - D
5 Di Methyl Octanol
7 Alcool Benzilique
35 Geraniol
8 Cymene Para 95 %
209 Orange Oil Sweet
9 Valencene - ex Orange
.3 Aldehyde C - 10
15 Litsea Cubeba Oil
.1 Aldeido C - 10

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Glen O. Brechbill 326

Citrus Fantasy # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

19 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Benzaldehyde


6 Vanisal 1 Methyl Pamplemousse
.1 Amberwood 8 Petitgrain Citroneer Oil
47 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 39 Sweet Orange Oil
1 Pine Oil Yarmor 3 Methyl Heptenone
1 Undecatriene 73 Linalyl Acetate
28 D-Limonene .1 Folione
1 Jasmon 36 Lemon Oil 340
1 Balsam Peru Oil .1 Aldehyde C - 10
11 Citrathal .2 Anapear - Givaudan
4 Sandela 8 Hydroxycitronellal 99 %
1 Benzyle Butyrate 6 Pamplemousse E Blanc
86 Super Cepionate 1 Verbena Oliffac
9 Citral 850 1 Melaflor
5 Jasphene 9 Citronella 85/25 China
13 Myrcene 4 Grapefruit Australina
25 alpha - Ionone 88 Limonene D
9 Benzylacetate 1 Orangeflor
4 Citronellol .1 Petilyn
.1 Aldehyde C - 10 5 Verdox
14 Gamma Terpenes 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
6 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Stymonile ABQ7020
29 Geraniol 60 .1 Floralat
4 Citrilys Givco 169
41 Hercolin D
1 Nerone 1,000
3 Peach Aldehyde
168 D’Limonene Substitute
8 Lilial
3 Methyl Jasmonate Pure
9 Vanoris
7 Triplal - IFF
105 Orange Oil Sweet Cyprus
.3 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
41 Linalol

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327 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fantasy # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

24 Benzyl Alcohol FR 1 Methyl Pamplemousse


6 Vanilline 8 Petitgrain Lemon Oil
.1 Ambergris 15 Sweet Orange Spain Oil
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Methyl Heptenone
1 Iso Bornyl Crystals 73 Linalyl Acetate Nat.
3 Undecatriene .1 Nonadienal
25 D-Limonene 36 Lemon Oil Washed
1 Jasmon .1 Aldehyde C - 10
1 Balsam Peru Oil .2 cis - 3- Hexyl Acetate
9 Citrathal 8 Hydroxycitronellal
7 Sandalina 6 Pamplemousse E Blanc
1 Fruitline AB 876 5 Verbena Oliffac
76 Zeppin 7 Aqualone
19 Citral 700 2 Citronella Oil China
5 Jasphene 4 Grapefruit Australina
13 Myrcene 89 Limonene D
25 Methyl Ionone 1 Orangeflor
9 Benzyle Acetate .1 Petilyn
17 Citronellol 5 Verdox
.1 Aldehyde C - 10 3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
14 Gamma Terpenes 1 Stymonile ABQ7020
6 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Floralat
28 Geraniol 60
4 Citrilys Givco 169
64 Hercolin D 1,000
1 Nerolin
4 Peach Aldehyde
133 D’Limonene Substitute
8 Lilial
3 Jasmorange
9 Vanoris
7 Triplal
125 Orange Oil Sweet Cyprus
.3 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
41 Linalool - John Manheimer
1 Benzaldehyde

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Glen O. Brechbill 328

Masculine Fragrance’s - Citrus Fresh

CITRUS FRESH

A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another.
A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.

Top Lemon 3 %

Petitgrain 1.5 %, Neroli 1 %,Lime 3%, Bergamot 6 % Citrus Fresh

Mandarin 1 %, Orange 10 %, Peach 1.5 %


Middle
Jasmin 6 %
Citral 4 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Violet 3 %, Rose 8 %, Lemongrass 2 % Floral

Geranium - Trace, Verbena 1%

Base Moss - Trace

Amber .5 %, Civet - Trace, Sandalwood 1 % Moss Ambery

Vanilla 2 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Di Ethyl hthalate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %

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329 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fresh # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

21 Benzyl Alcohol .3 Aldehyde C - 10


4 Iso E Super 8 Myrcetol
1 Mousse De Metra 5 Verbenna Oliffac
44 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Citrilys Givco 164
3 Citropal 129 Orange Oil Florida Velencia C.P.
4 Citronellal 4 Lemonile
7 Di Hydro Nootkatone 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
4 Palmarosa Guatemala 4 Bergamot ( Italia )
3 Azuril 15 Peach Aldehyde 98 %
8 Lemon Carbonyls FN12231 27 Lime, Haitian Distilled
14 Citronellol 5 Petitgrain, Moroc Sur Fleurs
5 Di Methyl Octanol 1 Orange Carbonyl
7 Lemongrass Oil Yunnun 4 Grapefruitone
.4 Orange Aldehyde 3 Tamarine Base 41310G
12 Citral Natural Ex Litsea 7 Orange Oil Sweet Brazilian
64 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 1 Perryfix
5 Citroasis Base 129022L 3 Geranyl N - Butyrate
21 Linalool 7 Orange C.P. & Sweet
37 Hexyl Cinnamic Alehyde
9 L - Limonene 75
3 Citronama 1,000
.1 Benzaldehyde
.2 Aldehyde C - 11 MOA
8 Citralva
336 Orange Terpenes
1 Allyl Caproate
4 Lemsyn
17 Ionone
4 Floralate
45 Geraniol 8020
9 Laurine
14 Orange Guinea
7 Bergamyl Acetate
10 Mandarin Yellow Brazil
38 Linalyl Acetate

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Glen O. Brechbill 330

Citrus Fresh # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

17 Benzyl Alcohol 5 Triplal


23 Sandela 3 Dimetol
.1 Mousse De Chenne Morocco 4 Petitgrain Mandarin Oil
3 Balsam Peru Oil 13 Aldehyde C - 14
45 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 39 Linalyl Acetate
62 Super Cepionate 17 Lemon Oil of California
.3 Alcohol C - 9 8 Dipentene 5100
7 Gamma Terpinene 95 .1 Leaf Alcohol
24 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 113 Orange Oil Sicilian
13 Citral FF 12 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
21 Citronellol Coeur .1 Rose Oxide L
2 Terpinol 1 Methyl Para Cresol
5 Geraniol 98 % 3 Melafleur
23 Linalool 2 Neorosal 16G
6 Citral Natural .1 Aldehyde C - 10
1 Bois Iris 3 Petitgrain Oil Moroc Sur Fleurs
5 Citruls Givco 169 19 Orange Sweet Oil
8 Myrcene 90 3 Violet
.1 Civet Powder 5 Dimyrcetol
12 Hydroxy Citronellal Dma 2 Florosa O
2 Citronella Oil 85/35 Chinese 1 Helioforte
9 Rose Artificial .2 Citrus Base
4 Citronelva
48 Geraniol 5020
7 Lyral 1,000
13 Ionone Alpha
1 Vert De Fleur D’Oranger
332 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
4 Vertacetal
7 Sandalore
23 Violet Base
18 Hedione
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Citryl Acetate

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331 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fresh # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

12 Benzyl Alcohol 8 Grapefruit California C.P. Pink


.1 Veltol 39 ORANGE OIL SUBSTITUTE
1 Amberlyn AB2000 23 Linalool Standard Ex Orange
6 Santiliff .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
39 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Orangeflor
13 Glbador CG 3 Bergamot Augaflor 4
.1 Civet 170BSA 5 Orange
68 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate 4 Lilyall
5 Citronellal 7 Di Hydro Myrcenol Acetate
.3 Alcohol C - 9 4 Orange Oil Bitter W.I.
4 Dimetol .1 3, 6 Nonadien - 1 - OL
8 Citronella Oil Java 4 DMBC Propionate
10 Citronellol 6 Lime Terpenes
3 Lotus 172 2 Octacetal
24 Hydroxycitronellal Pure FCC 135 Floral Orange Valencia
6 Oncidal 61 Linalyl Acetate
5 Lilial 3 Lime Blossom
19 Benzyl Salicylate .7 Strallyl Alcohol
27 Vetiver Oil Indonesia (Java) 6 Aldehyde C - 14
44 Geraniol Prime
5 Citrathanil ABQ7023
3 Melisse Oil 1,000
4 Citracetal
3 Geranyl Acetate
2 Limetol
13 Nerol
327 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Zeppin
3 Iso Amyl Captoate 35 % FCC
5 Neofolione
13 Grapefruit Oil Florida
.4 Aldehyde C - 10
5 Citryls Givco 169
2 Mandarin Oil Essence

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Glen O. Brechbill 332

Masculine Fragrance’s - Citrus Green

CITRUS GREEN

A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum
Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green
note aromas.

Top Tangerine 1 %

Lime 5 %, Orange 13 %, Bergamot 9 % - Fruity Citrus Floral

Pineapple 1.5 %, Mandarin 2%, Green Notes - Trace


Middle
Muguet 6 %
Amyl Salicylate 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 % Lavender # 5, Violet 4 %, Rose 5 % - Sweet Floral

Jasmin 2 %, Geranium .5 %

Base Musk 2 %

D’Limonene Sub 30 % Patchouli 1 %, Amber - Trace, Vanilla .5 % Dry

Sandalwood .5 %

Cutters

Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Hercolyn - D 3 %

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333 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Green # 1a

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

1 Ambrox D’L Coeur 3 Vanillyl Alcohol


23 Musk TM II .1 Alcohol C - 09
8 Sandalwood Substitute 8 Tangerinol
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 57 Linalyl Acetate
8 Patchouli Oil Light 1 Cis Jasmone
17 Benzyl Alcohol 9 Fresh Pineapple
4 Vanillin 23 Bergamot Oil Substitute
28 Benzyl Salicylate 14 Lavender Oil French 40/42
3 Benzophenone 6 Lyral
19 Salicilato Amil .2 Geranium Rose Oil
24 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 43 Dihydromyrcenol
21 Benzyl Acetate 99 % .1 Folione
5 Muskylein 101 Orange Oil Substitute
3 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Kir Base # 9741
49 Hydroxycitronellal Extender .1 Rose Oxide D
33 Jasphene 1 Jasmil 5329
.1 Rosone 9 Lime Oil West - Indian
15 Mandarinal 3 Acetate De Styralyle
6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 25 Orange Peel Oil Sweet Florida
3 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Alcohol C - 11
154 D’Limonene Substitute .1 Lemongrass Jave Essence
1 Irisone Pure 1 Jasmone
41 Geraniol
3 Sandalore
.1 Heliomet 1,000
53 Di Propileno Glico
1 Mallow
9 Citronellol
10 Methyl Lavender Ketone
1 Lorysia
43 Hercolin - D
21 Citralva
43 Linalool 97 %
9 Tangerine Oil C.P. Florida
.1 Aldehyde C - 10
1 Santalyl Acetate

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Glen O. Brechbill 334

Citrus Green # 1b

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

9 Patchouly Oil .1 Rose Oxide L


3 Amber Substitute 6 Petitgrain Citronee Oil
6 Sandalwood Givco 203 3 Lysral
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 Citronellyl Acetate
3 Benzophenone .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Vanisal 41 Linalool Synthetic
23 Salicylate D’Amyle 7 Tangerine Oil - South American
.1 Benzoin Essence - US 3 Scennal
1 Musk Emeressence .1 Rose Acetate
5 Benteine 107 Orange Oil Substitute
22 Benzyl Alcohol .1 Aldehyde 13 - 13
3 Florhydral 1 Bois Ambrene Forte
24 Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate .1 Perryfix
38 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Bitter Orange Basil Oil
.1 Alpha Damascone 14 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
3 Vanillinethyl 57 Linalyl Acetate ( x - Mentha Citrata )
55 Hydroxycitronellol 3 OJ Carbinyl STV
6 Jasmin Province Base 8 Lime Oil - Washed
33 Iso Raldeine 70 .1 Aldeido C - 10
7 Citronellol 1 Fleurs d ‘ oranger abs. artess
4 Sandalwood Oliffac 17 Mandarinal
23 Citral 1 Undecatriene
1 Givescone 2 Citronella 82/32
9 Myrcene .1 Ribes Nigrum
33 Geraniol Synthetic 85 FCC
.1 Mallow
3 Orange Amore Bresil 1,000
85 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 Cis Jasmone
31 Lavender 40/42
207 Hercolyn - D
3 Tangerinol
4 Levenalis
36 Di Hydro Myrcenol

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335 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Green # 1c

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

4 Vanillin 6 Valencene
21 Alcool Benzilico 1 Citronellyl Acetate
8 Patchouli Dark OE .1 Aldehyde C - 10
4 Givescone 4 Dimetol
33 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 6 Orange Power Givco 229
7 Sandalwood Oil Extender 3 Styrallyl Acetate
19 Galaxolide 1 Aldehyde Mandarin 10 % Citr
53 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Lavender Oliffac
1 Amboryl Acetate 3 Veteacetal
14 Gamma Terpenes 9 Mandarine
23 Amyl Salicylate 1 Glycolierral
25 Cepionate 4 Petilime FM 1213
6 y - Irone 7 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
261 D’Limonene Substitute .2 Orange Essence Oil
9 Ionone Alpha 60 1 Geranodyle
11 Citronellal Oil Java 1 Cis Jasmone
4 Florhydral 11 Tangerine, Florida
3 Ethyl Vanisal 1 Nerol
25 Citral Extra 2 Vernol
41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Artemisa
17 Para Cymene .1 Rose Oxide R
1 Musk Emeressence 2 Formate De Geranyle
15 Citronelol 51 Linalyl Acetate
11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
79 Hercolyn - D
17 D. Limonene 1,000
21 Geraniol
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Orange Aldehyde
37 Orange Oil Guinea
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Iso Nonyl Acetate
35 Ethyl Linalool
63 Orange Oil Substitute

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com


Glen O. Brechbill 336

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