Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions
Glen O. Brechbill
www.perfumerbook.com
2009
This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any man-
ner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations
embodied in critical articles and reviews.
Library of Congress
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition
What can I say about a fine perfume. Of course the art of creating a fine fragrance in this industry is a very
carefully guarded craft. In order to learn how to assemble a formula takes a very good memory, talent and years
of hard work. In fact the three leaders in the industry including Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have their own
schools where a student apprentices under a master perfumer.
A fine fragrance is nothing more then an assemblage of pleasing materials that together works harmoniously in
a blend. I decided to add my arrangements in order to display the art as simple as it is complex. If one works
a composition as a percentage of various materials a fine fragrance formula can be deciphered.
Unfortunately one will very rarely find any compositions on the world wide web. Part of this is due to the para-
noia within the industry. A material understanding will allow you to decipher the complexity of just about any
fragrance excluding Estee Lauder's Beautiful. Creating a formula with fifteen or more pages just over compli-
cates the art, and of course the fragrance. I decided to add my personal classification of aroma chemicals
through the book to help explain the simplicity of a creation and each fragrance family's uniqueness. Any given
material can play an important role, or a subordinate one. Again, that is the nature of the creative art.
Personally I believe a fine fragrance can be assembled utilizing a page and a half of various materials. What
works together in a blend depends on skill and in part luck by the artist. Most fragrance houses in the states
utilize test panels. Trying to get a scent created with endless critics further degrades the fine art. Asking some -
one a pointed question the answer can be what you want to hear, but not necessarily the truth.
Fragrance launches today are to many often tied to stars and gimmicks. Chandler Burr in his recent book show
casing the industry states the business needs to get back to its roots. I think he is one hundred percent correct
in his assessment. The miss truths put out by the marketing, public relations and ad advertising folks ads to the
declining sales and many failures.
Whether any particular fragrance in my book works is unknown. However, I do know one will not find a finer
collection of fragrance compositions anywhere on the internet. The craft and its art are that highly prized. If
one finds a book the formulas are either old, useless or misleading further obfuscating the art.
Index
Index Pages
Copyright 2
Index 4-5
Fragrance Families 6 - 13
Fragrance Pyramid 14 - 16
Fragrance Families
LASSIFICATION IS VARIED, and their are new sub-divisions constantly being added. Keep in mind the sub-
C groups are part of the below families. Tastes and popularity of any particular group can vary from coun-
try to country. With the launch of more, and more fine fragrances the market is getting increasingly over satu-
rated. Employed today one will find a lot of marketing hype. This includes of course the use of movie stars,
personalities, custom bottles, and fancy packaging.
Fine fragrances can be categorized in several different aroma groupings. All scents no matter how unique
and distinct fall into fragrance families that include Floral, Chypre, Oriental, Lavender, Fougere and Citrus.
They are further divided between women, and men. Listed below are the original families as outlined by
Haarman & Reimer.
Feminine Notes
Floral Family:
The largest family of fine fragrances is by far the florals. Floral notes can find their way into the heart of
many fragrances. A floral fragrance can be classified as light, green, floral, and heavy. Scents in this family
include violet, carnation, rose, gardenia, lily of the valley, tuberose and narcissus. A light fragrance is often
described as springtime flowers like Lily of the Valley, Lilac and Freesia often with citrusy or fruity top notes.
Green accords can also be based on Muguet, and other leafy stem like materials sometimes based on herba-
ceous, earthy notes like Galbanum.
Narcotic floral effects can be achieved by blending different floral materials with rose notes plus adding
exotic Ylang-Ylang, Methyl Benzoate, and other diverse floral materials. They are often found in southern cli-
mates than in more northerly regions, and are thus considered heavy. These include, first and foremost, Jasmin
represented by Benzyl Acetate, Hedione to name a few of the fragrance ingredients that are available to a cre-
ative artist.
Other exotic types include Tuberose, Orange Blossom and Narcissus. Floral notes in this family can also
be balsamic such as Hyacinth. Various violet compounds are a favorite addition to many compositions. The
fragrances included in this group enjoy the greatest acceptance around the world. Many formulas display dis-
tinctive accords that are reminiscent of their natural counter parts. It can be made up of a wide variety of flo-
ral bouquets, or a certain note which predominates. The floral family has six main sub divisions as Floral,
Floral Floral
A floral fragrance owes its nature to flower blossoms that may differ from one another. Rose materials such
as Citronellol, Geraniol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol predominate. Again Jasmine in combination with rose
ingredients are the central part of this theme. By adding carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, iris and others a pure-
ly floral effect can be achieved. Today more synthetic ingredients including the use of artificial bases are uti-
lized due to the high cost and unavailability of essential oils. For example, a fine fragrance such as Chanel # 5
created by Ernst Breaux in 1923 would smell entirely different today.
Floral Green
A floral green fragrance are natural in nature compounded by blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus
fruits. This group is characterized of typical botanical fragrance notes, like those of leaves, stalks or freshly
mown grass as well as cucumber-violet-like green notes. Generally relying on parts of plants, and flowers such
as Muguet, or Lily of the Valley. They can be delicate as Muguet or have a strong stem like note characteristic
of Styrallyl Acetate or Cyclamen Aldehyde. Green is often used to describe lush forests, fallen leaves during
the autumn, a woodland meadow, or grassland. They can be further subdivided under Fresh and Balsamic.
Galbanum or Olibanum would be in the later family, or the can be a green accord such as Cassis.
Floral Fruity
A fragrance of a floral fruity type can be achieved by blending fruity elements of a single fruit or a com-
bination of two or more of which one can dominate. Apple accords that include, peach, apricot, pineapple, cas-
sis, prune, strawberry, and raspberry. Mixed with fine floral ingredients that include jasmine, violet, hyacinth
and others provide a rich show case of what can be achieved within this family. Becoming more popular each
day is the utilization of Papaya, and Passion Fruit. These perfumes are known to have a clean fruit quality and
a soft warmth.
Floral Fresh
A flower that is found in nature can be fresh, yet sweet and green. This is part of the classification of fine
fragrances that is open to interpretation. Some suggest that this type of fragrance can be based on hyacinth, lily
of the valley and orange blossom with a fresh fruity note of Bergamot and other citrus materials. Jasmine based
on Benzyl Acetate or Hedione can also be part of the theme.
Floral Aldehydic
Floral aldehydic compounds were discovered in the 19th century. Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive
effect, and are characterized by a rich opulent top note. In small parts certain aldehydes are used as a top note
effect simulating a variety of floral scents that are found in nature. Muguet or Lily of the Valley based on
Hydroxycitronellal is a popular example. Utilizing aldehydes provide modern accords with a richness and
depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by
Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combina-
tion of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia.
Floral Sweet
A floral sweet fragrance is often described as a floriental. Fragrances in this family can include gardenia,
jas mine, freesia, and orange flower. A fine sweet fragrance can be based on Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl
Cinnamic Aldehyde, Vetiver including exotic spices and their essences.
Chypre:
The term Chypre was coined by Francois Coty who created the original perfume in 1917. They were based
on aroma materials that had an origin from Mediterranean countries. Mr. Coty was born on the island of Cyprus
thus he came up with his namesake Chypre. The concept is based on a citrus fresh accord and moss. Originally
the accord was founded on Bergamot Oil although scents in the family can include clary sage, lavender,
patchouli and resins. The scents feel perfect for those who enjoy the fresh outdoors. In women's fragrance
there are five main subdivisions that include Floral, Fresh, Fruity, Musk and Green.
Chypre Floral
Keeping this concept true to form the rose is used as a dominate theme. In my book titled, A Reference
Book On Fragrances I have a sub division that lists over 200 rose materials. Also used is a Gardenia accord
that can be artificially recreated using a Jasmin rose theme with Styrallyl Acetate as a predominate green note.
Chypre Fresh
The term fresh is open to a wide variety of interpretations. Fresh can be floral directed having its origins
in many different flowers, and of course with citrus top note components. With time this term has become
increasingly generic in its use.
Chypre Fruity
This concept is characterized by a predominate fruitiness often having a peach like fragrance. It is more
pronounced in this group having components that are inherent to this family.
There are several popular animal notes that are employed in modern perfumery today. Musk was original-
ly obtained from the musk deer native to Asia. In dilution otherwise known as a tincture it has a distinctive ani-
mal like note. Civet is a cat native to Ethiopia in Africa. The animal has a gland that produces a sweet urine
musk like odor that produces a velvety nuance to many fragrance blends in trace amounts. A third is Ambergris
produced by the sperm whale. Often this material gray in color is found washed up on the shores of beaches
around the world after being vomited by the whale. A pound of this material can bring a King's ransom. Today
most of the musk like animal materials are produced synthetically. Fine representations of this group include
Galaxolide 50, Ethylene Brassylate including Cashmeran, and Nepalva. Materials that include Phenyl produce
a musk like honey fragrance.
Chypre Green
A delightful concept, and one of my favorites is the Green theme. It is always open for experimentation
and interpretations. Generally a wide variety of floral components are incorporated into this arrangement with
a greenness based on Galbanum, Muguet, or Lily of the Valley, with strong green like synthetic notes. Often
added are herbaceous coniferous traces to round off this accord.
Oriental Family:
The Oriental family of fragrances is often referred to as Amber. These perfumes have a strong, musky, spicy
scent that often conjure up memories of Arabia and India. They are rich, heavy and diffusive. The sweetness
can be derived from vanilla, sandalwood to name a few. Combining floral ingredients they are mysterious and
sensual. The first Oriental was Jicky created by Guerlain in 1889. This group contain aroma materials often
are reminiscent of the Far East. There's a wide range of interpretations some flowery related whereas others
have a heavy spicy theme.
Oriental Sweet
An oriental sweet scent can have a citrus top note and a sweet vanilla amber foundation. Vanillin, and Ethyl
Vanillin both aldehydes can be used up to 10 % providing that extra sweetness. One can also utilize Balsam
Peru Oil, Vanilla Tincture, Vanilla Sur Abs. C'Less MD in conjunction with Benzyl family of materials.
Oriental Spicy
Incorporating spicy ingredients often from Indian can include clove, nutmeg and carnation, cardamom and
curry. Adding musk materials that can include floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang tend to provide
a delicate touch to this group. The notes can be bitter, or contain sweet elements A fragrance in this area is dis-
tinctive, and can be enjoyed by both men and women. Many perfumers add balsamic notes derived from bal-
sam materials including resinous notes derived from Balsam Peru.
EN'S FRAGRANCES TODAY ARE OPEN TO A MYRIAD of interpretations based on Lavender, Fougere, Oriental,
M Chypre and Citrus. The Oriental, and Chypre group shares a common theme with women's fragrances.
Lavender Family:
Masculine Notes
The fragrances are comprised of a union of lavender, or lavandin notes atop a mossy base with a citrusy
freshness. Fougere Royale by Houbigant was the first scent in this class. The Lavender and Fougere families
are similar often incorporating aroma materials that can be found in either theme. Originally it was intended
for women, but soon found its way to the men's side. Having fresh lavender as the main part of the fragrance
there is less room for creative interpretation. Both fresh and spicy themes predominate.
Lavender Fresh
This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas
opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.
Lavender Spicy
Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone
centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide
range of different themes.
Fougere Family:
The French word for Fern is Fougere. Ferns found in nature have very little odor. Generally the concept is
based on herbaceous materials that include Coumarin, Oak Moss, Lavender and Geranium. They are aromatic
often with a camphoraceous, minty, eucalyptus like with an earthy nuance. They are usually found on low-
growing, unobtrusively blossoming plants. Other examples include rosemary, sage as well as peppermint and
lavender. It also can be quite representative of a woodland accord.
Fougere Royale first introduced by Houbigant in 1882 was the start of this family. A composition can uti-
lize a wide range of aromatic chemicals as mentioned above including a variety of herbs, geranium and ferns.
The group was originally intended for the feminine market. However, it soon found its way to the men's side of
the fragrance isle. There are four sub-divisions in this group headed by Floral, Fresh, Woody and Sweet themes.
Fougere Fresh
This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh
approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.
Fougere Floral
The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations
of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.
Fougere Woody
This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be
used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and
animal materials.
Fougere Sweet
This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known
today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on
the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized.
Oriental Family:
The oriental family of fine fragrances is shared with the women. Scents in this family include amber, vanil-
la, woods, and resins. Spice materials such as cardamom, nutmeg, caraway, cassia, carnation, cinnamon find
their way in a variety of interesting combinations with a masculine theme. Floral notes such as rose and jas-
mine including the violet are part of the accord. Bay Oil from the West Indies including Pepper, Basil and
Olibanum are popular base materials. The mystery of the orient gives forth to an interesting, and at the same
time delightful group of fragrances.
Oriental Spicy
Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous
materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.
Oriental Sweet
An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fra-
grances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength.
Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme.
Chypre Family:
A Chypre fragrance was originally created by Francois Coty, and is based on ingredients originally from the
Mediterranean countries. It emphases the contrast between the citrus freshness of bergamot type top notes and
a mossy patchouli base. Chypre perfumes tend to be strong, and aromatic. In the men's side of the family there
are five main groups that have a woody, leathery, coniferous, fresh and green themes. There is a wide range of
accords that can be achieved by combining masculine aroma notes in daring ways. It is reminiscent of those
who love to explore, and enjoy the fresh outdoors.
Chypre Woody
This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which
smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and
warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like
note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly
fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and
can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.
Chypre Leather
Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include
Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including
Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of
course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS - 3768, and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great
care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that
includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling
strip well over a month.
Chypre Coniferous
A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy,
herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately
resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes
are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes.
Chypre Fresh
A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have
a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.
Chypre Green
The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often
Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.
Citrus Family
This is predominately a man's group of fragrances. Often citrus notes are combined in fine floral fruity
accords to strengthen the top note of this group of fragrances. They are predominately light and fresh with an
overwhelming citrus note such as bergamot, orange, lemon, lime, petitgrain, grapefruit, tangerine, and man-
darin. Citrus fragrances are refreshing very popular in the summer.
Citrus Floral
A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note based on the above.
Citrus Fantasy
A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of
many different citrus notes to produce different effects.
Citrus Fresh
A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another.
A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.
Citrus Green
A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum
Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green
note aromas.
Ozone Family:
Oceanic, ozone, watery are an example of a new group of fragrances. Often they are described as things
you can't bottle naturally like ocean spray, mountain air, or freshly laundered clothes. There is a wide range of
fragrant ingredient materials available as outlined below:
Citrus
Floral Bergamot
Lemon Fruity
Jasmin Lime
TOP
Carnation Orange Apple
Rose Melon
Violet Peach
Galbanum Strawberry
Gardenia Spicy
Styrallyl Acetate
Wood
Cinnamon
Green Cloves Cedar
Nutmeg Patchouly
Aldehydes Sandalwood
MIDDLE Vetiver
Mossy
Oakmoss
Tremoss
BASE
Amber
Animal
Amber Oriental Balsamic
Labdanum Civet
Vanilla Bean Castoreum Benzoin
Musk Opoponax
Musk Traseolide Tonka
he florals represent the soul of every feminine perfume. They are basically middle notes. Nevertheless, as
T you can see, they also plan an important rolse in the devleopment of the top and the base of the fragrance.
The citruses, first of the top notes, also play a fairly important rose in the development of the middle of a fra-
grance. Then come the green notes, the fruity notes, and lastly the aldehydes, pure aroma chemicals with no
bases in nature, which are used to give diffusion and originality to a fragrance.
From there, we move on to the base notes, which include the spices ( which may also play an important rose in
the development of the top of the fragrance), the mosses, the woods, the oriental/balsamic, the animal and the
amber notes.
A triangle such as the outside one will give you a fragrance such as L’Air du Temps. The narrow inside trian-
gle with its emphasis on the top notes shows a fresh fragrance such as Diorella. The wide traingle with its
emphasis on the base notes illustrates a fragrance such as Shalimar.
While this is a very much a generalization, by varying the form of the traingle one can obtain an idea of the per-
formance of a fragrance and of the corresponding raw materials which go into its development.
The above should not be interpreted as an attempt to reduce a perfume to a mere traingle: the grandeur of a fra-
grance comes from its richness, not from its austerity. Nevertheless, the triangle approach seems the most apt
for visually translating notions which we all know are particularly difficult to grasp and express.
Amber, Moss
Chypre Green
Anisic Aldehyde Intensely sweet floral yet somewhat hay like hawthorne.
Anisyl Acetate Mildly fruity floral slightly balsamic vanilla like in plums, lilac.
Anisyl Alcohol Mildly floral sweet odor reminiscent of vanilla.
Argumen Aldehyde Floral aldehydic hyacinth type.
Aurantesin Sweet floral odor reminiscent of orange blossom.
Aurantiol Very sweet heavy floral orange blossom to linden flowers.
Citronella Oil Java Fresh and sweet revealing high content of citronellol rose odor.
Citronellol Oil Coeur Fresh, rosy, floral rosy.
Citronellol Oil Extra Purer grade, fresher rosy.
Citronellol 750 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 73 %.
Citronellol 80 Intermediate Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 83.5 %.
Citronellol 850 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 86 %.
Citronellol Last Fraction Rosy, not as sweet as a typical fresh floral rose.
Citronellyl Acetate Fresh, rosy, fruity odor reminiscent of geranium oil.
Citronellyl N Butyrate Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal like.
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor.
Citronellyl Formate Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light Rem of geranium rose.
Citronellyl Nitrile A green rose like scent almost reminiscent of citralva.
Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet herbaceous rosy, heavy and reminiscent of rose petals.
Citronellyl Propionate Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor.
Cyclal C Powerful green leafy floral.
Cyclamen Aldehyde Diffusive powerful floral green stem like odor.
Jasmaprunate Fruity like apple jasmin dry slight green like wild grapes.
Jasmin # 187 A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex.
Jasmin Abs. Floral jasmin not overly sweet like cananga oil.
Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn. A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.
Jasmin Abs. Italian Max. The purest heart of the floral jasmin.
Jasmin Egyptian An extremely fine floral jasmin fragrance.
Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt A sweet strong jasmin green floral petal like odor.
Jasmolactone Sweet fruity floral jasmin.
Jasmo Lactone CNC Oily fruity floral petal like odor.
Jasmonyl Intensely sweet floral jasmin.
Jessemal Herbaceous floral jasmin.
Kir Base # 9741 Woody floral complex with amber violet note.
Koavone Woody floral complex with amber violet note.
Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate Very faint and sweet pleasant balsamic rosy odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity tea rose type.
Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Powerful diffusive, dilution - jasmin tobacco like.
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Heavy and very sweet floral balsamic odor, musky honey like.
Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate Floral possibly faintly rosy pratically no odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.
Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Faint, but sweet and delicate balsamic floral.
Phenyl Propyl Acetate Fresh floral powerful fruity green.
Phenyl Propyl Alcohol Warm and mild balsamic floral, sweet odor.
Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde Floral hyacinth, lilac, balsamic green.
Phixia Sweet, floral at first delicate refreshing mild.
Phytia Abs. Powerful floral herbaceous balsamic, not sweet.
Phytol Delicate floral balsamic notes reminiscent of nerolidol, farnesol.
Pivarose Floral tea rose.
Piviane 2 A sweet rosy floral fragrance.
Polarose Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor.
Pseudo M I Terpenes A harsh floral violet like odor.
Rose Oil Turkey Commercial An extremely floral typical rose odor, not intense over powering.
Rose Oil Turkish Sweet floral rose.
Rose Orient Intensely rose like, mysterious, diffusive, rounded and nice.
Rose Oxide R Reminiscent of rose geranium.
Undecavertol Strong, however not over powering slightly green floral odor.
FLORAL FLORAL
A floral fragrance owes its nature to flower blossoms that may differ from one another. Rose materials such
as Citronellol, Geraniol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol predominate. Again Jasmine in combination with rose
ingredients are the central part of this theme. By adding carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, iris and others a pure-
ly floral effect can be achieved. Today more synthetic ingredients including the use of artificial bases are uti-
lized due to the high cost and unavailability of essential oils. For example, a fine fragrance such as Chanel # 5
created by Ernst Breaux in 1923 would smell entirely different today.
Middle Jasmin 10 %
Lilac 1 %, Carnation 6 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Hercolyn - D 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 25 %
Floral Floral # 1a
Floral Floral # 1b
Floral Floral # 1c
FLORAL FLORAL
Top Orange 5 %
Lavender 3 %
Middle Jasmin 8 %
Base Cedar 4 %
Civet - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Floral Floral # 2a
Floral Floral # 2b
Floral Floral # 2c
FLORAL FLORAL
Top Pineapple 1 %
Musk 3 %, Styrax .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %
Floral Floral # 3a
Floral Floral # 3b
Floral Floral # 3c
FLORAL FLORAL
Top Peach 1 %
Pineapple 1 %
Middle Lilac 1 %
Base Tonka 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Propionate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %
Floral Floral # 4a
Floral Floral # 4b
1 Okumal .1 Alcohol C - 9
32 Iso E Super 53 Muguet Base
3 Sandalore .1 Rose Oil Otto Bulgaria
.1 Evernyl 114 Linalol S97
4 Patchouli Oil F 867 5 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - A
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) .1 Undecavertol
9 Galbanum Resinoide .1 Violiff
11 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Geraniol 600
14 Laurine Extra 11 Verdox
1 Vanilla Bean Clair 1 Sur Fleurs d’oranger Oil
11 Peonile 4 Muguet Aldehyde 50
75 Super Cepionate 27 Linalyl Acetate
5 Brahmanol .1 Folione
2 Javanol 3 Di Ethyl Malonate
9 Lilial 5 Florhydral
68 Ionone For Soap Base .1 Leaf Alcohol
4 Methyl Para Cresole 3 Neroli Bigarad
8 Citronellol 1 Styrallyl Acetate
11 Iso Amyl Geranate 8 Tangerine, Florida
12 Gardenia Base 3 Nerol
36 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Top Galbanum 18.326 SAB
23 Aubepine .1 Methyl Tuberate
5 Geranyl Acetate .1 Geranio Bourbon
9 Lavende Verte
338 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
15 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute 1,000
34 Geraniol
3 Anisalcohol
5 Lyral
8 Ionone Alpha 60
33 Galaxolide 50
1 Poirinate
3 Galbanodor
2 Florymoss
6 Triplal
Floral Floral # 4c
FLORAL FLORAL
Orange 2 %, Basil 1 %
Middle
Jasmin 6 %
Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Rose 26 %, Muguet 6 %, Violet 3 % Floral
Cinnamic Alcohol 1 %
Lilac 5 %, Carnation 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Floral Floral # 5a
Floral Floral # 5b
Floral Floral # 5c
FLORAL FLORAL
Top Basil 1 %
Civet - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %
Floral Floral # 6a
Floral Floral # 6b
Floral Floral # 6c
FLORAL FLORAL
Base Cedarwood 3 %
Sandalwood 1 %, Patchouli .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Propionate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %
Floral Floral # 7a
Floral Floral # 7b
Floral Floral # 7b
FLORAL FLORAL
Top Neroli 1 %
Base Cedarwood 3 %
Cutters
Benzyl Propionate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %
Floral Floral # 8a
Floral Floral # 8b
Floral Floral # 8c
FLORAL BOUQUET
The Floral Bouquet fmaily is feminine, and is new and one of my favorites. Some perfumer’s refer it as a
Frangipianni. In my mind it can be based on jasmin, rose, muguet, gardenia, carnation or for that matter any
floral material. The direction of this group can be based on any theme including fresh floral top notes and fruity
arrangements.
Top Lemon 2 %
Strawberry
Jasmin 5 %, Carnation 2 %
Base Sandalwood 4 %
Musk 5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 5 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %
Floral Bouquet # 1a
Floral Bouquet # 1b
Floral Bouquet # 1c
FLORAL BOUQUET
Top Bergamot 3 %
Peach - Trace
Middle Rose 19 %
Base Musk 3 %
Amber - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Floral Bouquet # 2a
Floral Bouquet # 2b
Floral Bouquet # 2c
Leaf Acetal Extra Powerful oily green odor with a sweet vegetable undertone.
Leaf Acetate Intensely green diffusive odor.
Leaf Alcohol Powerful fruity green slightly fruity.
Leaf Salicylate Sweet, slightly green balsamic odor.
Liffarome Violet green.
Ligustral Fresh green.
Nerolidol Mild and delicately floral slight green reminiscent of apple lily.
Nerolidyl Acetate Sweet woody and mildly refreshing green.
Trans 2 Hexenyl Acetate Powerful and fresh green sweet fruity very natural odor.
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate Powerful herbaceous green and fresh woody odor.
Undecavertol Strong, however not over powering slightly green floral odor.
FLORAL GREEN
A floral green fragrance are natural in nature compounded by blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus
fruits. This group is characterized of typical botanical fragrance notes, like those of leaves, stalks or freshly
mown grass as well as cucumber-violet-like green notes. Generally relying on parts of plants, and flowers such
as Muguet, or Lily of the Valley. They can be delicate as Muguet or have a strong stem like note characteristic
of Styrallyl Acetate or Cyclamen Aldehyde. Green is often used to describe lush forests, fallen leaves during
the autumn, a woodland meadow, or grassland. They can be further subdivided under Fresh and Balsamic.
Galbanum or Olibanum would be in the later family, or the can be a green accord such as Cassis.
Middle Muguet 5 %
Base Musk 6 %
Civet - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Floral Green # 1a
Floral Green # 1b
6 Brahmanol .3 2, 6 Nonadienal
1 Evernyl 3 Petunial
44 Galaxolide 50 in DPG 15 Carnation Base
.1 Civet Abs. A 17 Melon Oliffac
9 Santal Core .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
17 Galbanum Res. 3918 P 6 Linalool 925
43 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 5 Hydroxy Extra
21 Benzyl Alcohol 1 Cyclal - C
9 Cashmeran 4 Apple Oliffac
7 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 22 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
16 Jasmin Artificial 3 Florosa
13 alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Limette Pressee Afroid
25 Salicylate D’Benzyle 3 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
6 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 5 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
4 Verdilyn 1 Tuberose Oliffac
15 Rose Substitute 4 Irisone Pure
9 Eugenol 7 Kir Base # 9741
14 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Lyrame
25 Ionone Alpha 60 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
3 Cyclo Galbanate 1 Jasmone
.1 Rose Oxide L .2 Neryl Acetate
8 Methyl Jasmonate Pure 1 Sandalore
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
14 Citronellol
323 Propileno Glico 1,000
18 Terpineol Prime
114 Hydroxycitronellal Extender
55 Geraniol 90
3 Metil Benzoato
14 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
35 Hedione
4 Top Galbanum 18.326
.1 Aldehyde C - 8
11 Styrallyl Acetate
3 Verdox
Floral Green # 1c
FLORAL GREEN
Middle Carnation 1 %
Base Musk 2 %
Cedarwood 2 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %
Floral Green # 2a
Floral Green # 2b
Floral Green # 2c
FLORAL GREEN
Top Cassis .5 %
Apple 1 %
Middle Jasmin 20 %
Base Musk 5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Floral Green # 3a
Floral Green # 3b
Floral Green # 3c
FLORAL GREEN
Violet 10 %, Lilac 3 %
Base Musk 3 %
Amber - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %
Floral Green # 4a
Floral Green # 4b
Floral Green # 4c
FLORAL GREEN
Top Orange 6 %
Middle Muguet 5 %
Base Musk 5 %
Moss - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %
Floral Green # 5a
Floral Green # 5b
Floral Green # 5c
Benzyl Acetate Powerful thin sweet fresh, fruity floral odor of jasmin gardenia.
Benzyl Butyrate Heavy fruity floral plum like.
Benzyl Formate Powerful fruity green herbaceous.
Benzyl Iso Amyl Ether Floral fruity odor somewhat greener and herb than B.A.
Benzyl Propionate Fruity sweet, rosy floral.
Bergamot Oil FCC Fresh, fruity citrus odor.
Bergamyl Acetate A sweet bergamot orange fragrance.
Beta Damascone Fruity.
Beta Ionone Warm woody dry odor, fruity undertone.
Damascenia 185 SA Floral fruity rose odor at same time very sweet.
Delta Dodelactone Fresh fruity oily odor of good tenacity.
Di Ethyl Malonate Sweet pleasant fruity green odor reminiscent of apples.
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate More fruity less floral.
D M B C - Acetate Powerful fresh floral fruity slight herbaceous jasmin lily.
D M B C - Butyrate Mild herbaceous fruity plum prune like.
D M B C - Propionate Sweet floral fruity odor of freesia, sweet pea, peony, magnolia.
Di Methyl Malonate Apple ethereal fruity.
Ionone Beta Pure More fruity, and woody like than alpha.
Iso Amyl N Butyrate Powerful diffusive fruity sweet apricot pineapple like odor.
Iso Amyl Propionate Sweet fruity apricot pineapple.
Iso Butyl Caproate Mild herbaceous woody, but over all fruity oily odor.
Iso Damascone A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex.
Iso Nonyl Acetate Woody fruity soft refreshing odor.
Laveo Menthyl Acetate Mild and sweet slightly fruity herbaceous minty odor.
Linalyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity recalling bergamot pear.
Linalyl Butyrate Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like.
Linalyl Iso Butyrate More floral less fruity.
Linalyl Propionate Fruity floral.
Nerolin Bromelia Crystals Delicate and sweet very tenacious floral fruity odor.
Neryl Acetate Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose.
Nopyl Acetate Sweet woody fruity odor.
Persicol Peach.
Perryfix Fruity sweet odor of pears, very nice and diffusive.
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fruity sweet, rosy floral.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity tea rose like.
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.
Prenyl Acetate Fresh diffusive, fruity banana, bergamot like.
Trans 2 Hexenyl Acetate Powerful and fresh green sweet fruity very natural odor.
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate Fruity floral.
Vanoris Woody fruity, soft refreshing odor of mild orris type.
Veltol Warm fruity caramellic sweet odor.
Veltol Plus Intensely sweet fruity bread like pleasant odor.
Velutone Faint, but sweet floral fruity odor.
FLORAL FRUITY
A fragrance of a floral fruity type can be achieved by blending fruity elements of a single fruit or a com-
bination of two or more of which one can dominate. Apple accords that include, peach, apricot, pineapple, cas-
sis, prune, strawberry, and raspberry. Mixed with fine floral ingredients that include jasmine, violet, hyacinth
and others provide a rich show case of what can be achieved within this family. Becoming more popular each
day is the utilization of Papaya, and Passion Fruit. These perfumes are known to have a clean fruit quality and
a soft warmth.
Middle Muguet 3 %
Base Musk 2 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %
Floral Fruity # 1a
Floral Fruity # 1b
Floral Fruity
FLORAL FRUITY
Top Bergamot 9 %
Middle Muguet 4 %
Base Musk 3 %
Sandalwood 1 %, Labdanum 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %
Floral Fruity # 1a
Floral Fruity # 1b
3 Rosone .2 Alcohol C - 10
12 Tonkarinol 1 Veryflor
.1 Civet Powder # 1B 58 Peach Pure - Givaudan
37 Musk 50 DPG 3 Acetyl Eugenol
3 Cedrenyl Acetate 9 Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
23 Benzyl Salicylate .3 Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
6 Chandanone 14 Verdox
42 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Jasmonyl Acetate
.1 Vanilla Absolute .1 Aldehyde C - 11
5 Alcool Cinamico .1 Fleurs d ‘ Oranger Abs. Artess
109 Benzyl Acetate 6 Green Peach Base
10 Cashmeran 6 Nerol
3 Benzoin Siam No. 2 .1 Undecatriene
9 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Nonadienal
1 Damascenia 4 Vert de Cassis Givco 180
5 Benzyl Phenyl Acetate 1 Methyl Pamplemousse
8 Tonka Resinoid 5 Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
13 Citronellol 3 Iris Beurre Oil
.1 Rosalva 8 Bergamot C.P. Italy
72 Hedione 1 cis - 3 - Hexnyl Salicylate
1 Rose Templar 11 Persicol SA
16 Lilac Base 1 Tansy Oil Canada
123 Hydroxycitronellal Extender 4 Geranyl Acetate
26 Geraniol 60 1 Orange Essence Oil, Brazil
303 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 3 Lyral
9 Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB2040 1 Mimosa Artessence
1 Cyclal - C
3 Lavender 40/42
5 Gardenia Fleuriff 1,000
1 Beta Damascone
1 Tuberose Oliffac
3 Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan
1 Styrallyl Acetate
2 Lilestralis
Floral Fruity # 1c
FLORAL FRUITY
Top Grape 6 %
Middle Rose 6 %
Cutters
Cinnamic Alcohol 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1.5 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1.5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 35 %
Floral Fruity # 2a
Floral Fruity # 2b
Floral Fruity # 2c
FLORAL FRUITY
Top Apple 5 %
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %
Floral Fruity # 3a
Floral Fruity # 3b
Floral Fruity # 3c
FLORAL FRUITY
Top Melon 17 %
Middle Jasmin 7 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %
Floral Fruity # 4a
.1 Veltol 24 Linalool
11 Benzyl Alcohol 3 Benzladehyde
3 Heliotropine 53 Geraniol 60
24 Sandalwood Extender 3 Acetyl Eugenol
31 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
6 Amber Substitute .1 Metil Tuberato
5 Raspberry Ketone 103 Citroflex # 2
3 Berryflor 3 Methyl Amyl Ketone
12 Benzyle Butyrate .1 Rosacene
4 Muskylein 4 Geranyl Acetate
33 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido .1 Neofolione
21 Benzyl Salicylate 1 Ghost Lily Accord - IFF
1 Ambrox DL Coeur 33 Verdox
9 Ethyl Aceto Acetate 4 Neryl Acetate
5 Musk Ambrette Substitute .5 Jamaica Oil
74 Benzyl Acetate 9 Nectaryl
37 Fructone 33 Linalyl Acetate
3 Vetamber ( Kephalis ) 5 Strawberry Aroma Base
6 Methyl Iso Eugenol 4 Myraldyl Acetate
1 Rosone 1 Jasmone
14 Methyl Ionone Gamma 1 Bourgenal
12 Serenolide 1 Iritone
8 Citronellol 3 Santalyl Acetate
6 Methyl Para Cresole 1 Iso Amyl Geranate
3 Javanol .1 Ribes Nigrum
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
277 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
9 Iraldeine Gamma 1,000
38 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
7 Lilie
3 Galbanodor CG
2 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
9 Methyl Jasmonate
Floral Fruity # 4b
Floral Fruity # 4c
FLORAL FRUITY
Top Strawberry 4 %
Middle Violet 7 %
Base Vanilla 2 %
Musk .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %
Floral Fruity # 5a
4 Veltol 4 Cassifix
1 Amberlyn 2 Rasberry Leaves - IFF
11 Alcool Benzila 13 Methyl Anthranilate
13 Vanisal .1 Alcohol C - 8
2 Acetate Iso Eugenol 9 Linalol Natural
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Cis - Jasmone
24 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 14 Persicol SA
6 Cremophor - Basf 7 Bergamot Oil Substitute
21 Alcool Cinamico 1 Liffarome
36 Blueberry Treatarome Base 5 Geranyl Acetate
5 Amyl Acetate 1 Vertosine
4 Benzyl Butyrate 3 Rose Acetate
3 Oxanone 29 Strawberry Aldehyde
9 Muscone 6 Nerol
10 alpha - Ionone 8 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
8 Ethyl Vanillin 22 Linalyl Acetate
53 Claigeon 11 Aurantiol
55 Iraldein Standard Substitute 48 Orange CP Brazil
17 Eugenol 2 Neryl Acetate
4 Citronellol Extra .3 Aldehyde C - 10
1 Anisyl Alcohol .1 Cherry Extract
12 Ethyl Butyrate 1 Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
53 Geraniol 1 Jasmone
5 Metil Benzoato
19 Anisic Aldehyde
307 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
9 Alpha Ionone 80
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
6 4 - (P - Acetoxy phenyl ) 2 - Butanone
3 3 - Octen - 2 - One
9 Benzaldehyde
.1 Folione
32 Blueberry Base
13 Lemon Oil
Floral Fruity # 5b
Floral Fruity # 5c
Ethyl Ortho Methoxy Benzoate Ylang tuberose, floral complex with raspberry and phenolic nuiance.
Farnesyl Acetate Faint, green floral rosy odor use in rose apple and herbal accords.
Florane Powerful, green crrushed petals rose like.
Florex A deep not sweet floral rose fragrance.
Geraniofix AB751 Sweet green geranium rose, best used in 10% dilution.
Geraniol Mild, and sweet floral rose.
Geraniol Coeur Floral, rose oily and green.
Geraniol Extra Sweet floral rose coeur grade.
Geraniol For Soap AB2015 Economical sweet rose base in lieu of geraniol last several days.
Geraniol 5020 Blend of geraniol 52%, nerol 25%, citronellol 20%.
Geraniol 60 Sweet floral rose.
Geraniol 600 Fresh rose petal, geraniol 60%, nerol 25%.
Geraniol 7030 Sweet fresh rose, geraniol 71%, nerol 19%.
Geraniol 8020 Sweet fresh rose with a citrus note, geraniol 81%, nerol 18%.
Geraniol 90 Mild and sweet floral rose.
Geraniol 980 Dry, rose petal, geraniol 97%.
Geraniol NC Floral, spicy note reminiscent of rose & palmarosa with carnation tone.
Geraniol N Supra Typical rosy mild, reminiscent of palmarosa oil
Geraniol RG Rose alcohols mix with citrus, verbana notes of nerol, dewy.
Geraniol WT Floral rose note with fresh verbena nuances.
Lorena Has a fresh odor of rose that recalls tang of the sea.
Neo Rose Otto A very high quality rose otto replacement at a lower cost.
Nerol Sweet rosy refreshing wet seashore like.
Nerol A Sweet rosy refreshing.
Nerol BG A good general purpose rose verbena quality with a warm spicy.
Nerol Coeur Moderately priced lemon verbena note dominating the rosy.
Nerol 800 Sweet fresh citrusy rose.
Nerol 850 Sweet citrusy, rose and fresh.
Nerol G A powerful refreshing, clean lemon rose odor.
Nerol 900 Sweet floral rose fresh citrus like.
Nerol O M Earthy, musty, palmarosa notes covering the verbena character.
Nerol Petals Sweet rosy leafy refreshing.
Nerol Regular A green note blends with the rose verbena tones in this grade.
Nerol Special A fresh sea shore like floral rose.
Neryl Acetate Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose.
Neryl Butyrate Green waxy oily and fatty.
Neryl Formate Rosy, herbaceous green character.
Neryl Geranyl Acetate Citrus sweet floral.
Neryl Iso Butyrate Rosy, berry character.
Neryl Iso Valerate Rich, clary sage of bergamot odor in oriental, oakmoss.
Neryl Propionate Fruity, jam like odor used in citrus and floral fragrances.
Top Rose ABQ5644 The top note of bulgarian rose oil lasts a few weeks.
Trans De Cadro Beta Naphyl Floral rosy.
Trans 4 Decenal # 382 Floral rosy.
Tuberanthia SA Tuberose.
Tuberose Abs. A heavy sweet almost nauseating floral odor of tuberose.
Tubereuse 181 A reconstitution of tuberose absolute, rich warm, sensual.
Tuberose Oliffac Sweet intense floral character of tuberose.
Tuberose Pomenade A heavy sweet almost overpowering tuberose odor.
Alpha Ionone Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive.
Alpha Ionone 60 Mild floral violet odor.
Alpha Ionone White Coeur Floral violet like.
Ionantheme 100 % Is used largely in floral, violet bouquets, but also in fruit accords
to provide volume and substantivity. Is fruitier and less woody
than either Irisone Alpha or Irisone pure.
Ionol Alpha Berry, sweet ionone like with a woody floral powdery note.
Ionol Beta Sweet, woody berry powdery, floral and fruity.
Ionone Warm, balsamic, violet floral.
Ionone Alpha Floral, violet, woody fruity.
Ionone Alpha Extra Floral violet.
Ionone Alpha Beta Regular Warm, woody more violet, alpha ionone 60%, beta ionone 30%.
Ionone Alpha Methyl C Floral violet.
Ionone Alpha Methyl Naphyl A very faint slightly sweet floral violet type odor.
Ionone Alpha Refined Fruity, woody violet, fresher, alpha Ionone 81%, beta ionone 9%.
Ionone Alpha Regular Warm, woody violet, alpha ionone 70%, beta ionone 30%.
Ionone Alpha White Coeur Floral violet.
Ionone Beta Pure More fruity, and woody like than alpha.
Linalool Terpenes Floral woody iris, quite harsh odor not pleasant.
Neofolione Blends very well with most floral notes, especially violet, where it is particular-
ly useful in replacing Folione. It imparts freshness and diffusion and has good
stability.
Nonadienal Blends well in green top note accords. Used as a modifier it imparts
a natural violet leaf aspect.
2,6 Nonadien 1 OL Cucumber or violet flower odor.
2, 6, Nonadienal # 332 Intense powerful vegetable green, reminiscent of violet leaves.
2, 6 Nonad 1 al Diethyl Acetal Smooth floral violet, melon odor.
Nonadienol A constituent of violet leaves as well as of cucumber. Is effective in a
wide range of applications in adding a natural melon-cucumber note.
It is olfactively similar to Nonadienal, but is fruitier and less leafy.
Violet A favorite in Sufi healing since a hadith of the Prophet states that
"the excellence of the extract is above all others extracts as the
excellence of me is above all of the rest of creation". A shy yet
deep and early scent for quiet beauties.
Violet Abs. French Strong herbaceous floral violet.
Violet Abs. Rue Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the french oil.
Violet Abs. Selection Strong floral violet odor.
Violet Augaflor 27 A fresh, green, violet odour. Long lasting, with a wonderful deep
green odour.
Violet Colorless 54.5219 Herbaceous floral odor of the violet.
Violet Concrete Characteristic of fresh violet leaves with a possible source in Egypt.
Violet Leaf Absolute Oily green cucumber leafy fresh sweet floral odor quite strong.
Violet Leaf Abs. N.Y. 11149 Green floral violet, very subtle slightly sweet.
Violet Leaves Abs. Powerful green leaf odor delicately floral note reminiscent violet.
Violet Leaves Abs. Green, melon floral, fresh waxy and leafy.
Violet Leaf Abs. Slightly violet, not strong or sweet.
Violiff Floral, violet, banana.
Benzyl Acetate Strong sweet fresh fruity floral odor of many types of flowers.
Benzyl Acetate Coeur A richer, softer jasmin.
Benzyl Acetate FFC Floral, jasmine
Benzyl Propionate Fruity sweet, floral undertone type jasmin.
Claigeon Jasmin-like.
Cepionate Powdery long lasting, jasmin.
Cis-Jasmon Diffusive, fruity jasmin.
Cis-2-Pentenol Powerful, jasmin, like.
CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.
Delphone Powerful, diffusive and complex floral aromatic and fruity, jasmin.
Di Hydro Iso Jasmone Lactonic, floral, jasmine.
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Fruity odor floral jasmin.
Di Hydro Jasmone Fruity sweet floral woody with a powdery nuance.
Di Jasmone A full, deep jasmin type odor, intensely floral.
D M B C - Acetate Fresh powerful fruity floral odor of jasmin, lily.
Jasmacylene Low cost, fresh diffusive green, woody anise, herby, - jasmin.
Jasmal Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor.
Jasmaprunate Fruity like apple jasmin dry slightly green like wild grapes.
Jasmatone Diffusive, warm spicy celery, with a hint of frutiness, - jasmin.
Jasmelia A pungent jasmin, jasmone odor with a hint of parsley.
Jasmin # 187 A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex.
Jasmin AB13 Economical but tenacious base with a fruity top note.
Jasmin AB 410 Long lasting, absolute note of floral jasmin.
Jasmin Abs. Floral jasmin not overly sweet like cananga oil.
Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.
Jasmin Abs. Italian Max. The purest heart of the floral jasmin.
Jasmin Abs. Oliffac An economical approach of the precious jasmin flower.
Jasmin Chassis Abs. Resembles orange flower absolute, warm sweet and heavy.
Jasmin Concrete With a varying source odor is waxy, fatty sweet jasmin like.
Jasmin Egyptian An extremely fine floral jasmin fragrance.
Jasmin Egyptian C2612 Has fine jasmin top note quite diffusive.
Jasmin Etoile Givco 144 Spicy warm floral.
Jasmin Lactone Powerful cream, jasmine, peach coconut note.
Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt A sweet strong jasmin green floral petal like odor.
Jasmin 74D A reconstitution of jasmin absolute.
Jasmine The sweetest and most celebrated flower of North Africa.
Jasmolactone Sweet fruity floral jasmin.
Jasmolactone CNC Oily, fruity floral petal like suggestive of many floral absolutes.
Jasmo Lactone XC Jasmin absolute odor with a buttery note.
Jasmoneige Natural jasmin.
Jasmonol Floral waxy odor works well in tuberose, honeysuckle and jasmin.
Jasmonyl Intensely sweet floral jasmin.
Jasmonyl Acetate Jasmin somewhat pear like odor.
Jasmophyll Sweet floral fruity like jasmin slight green herbal woody nuance.
Jasmorange Fruity balsamic, green floral, aldehydic.
Jasmopyrane Rich, waxy, sweet floral jasmin complex.
Jasmopyrane Forte More tenacious floral jasmin, and has a slight mushroomy note.
Jessemal Herbaceous floral jasmin.
Methyl Jasmonate The floral heart of jasmin, petal soft and tenacious, elegant.
Methyl Jasmonate Extra More powerful and floral than standard material extremely diffusive.
FLORAL FRESH
A flower that is found in nature can be fresh, yet sweet and green. This is part of the classification of fine
fragrances that is open to interpretation. Some suggest that this type of fragrance can be based on hyacinth, lily
of the valley and orange blossom with a fresh fruity note of Bergamot and other citrus materials. Jasmine based
on Benzyl Acetate or Hedione can also be part of the theme.
Base Amber .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %
Floral Fresh # 1a
Floral Fresh # 1b
Floral Fresh # 1c
FLORAL FRESH
Top Grape 1 %
Peach 1 %
Middle Jasmin 10 %
Base Musk 1 %
Vanilla 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Floral Fresh # 2a
Floral Fresh # 2b
Floral Fresh # 2c
FLORAL SWEET
A floral sweet fragrance is often described as a floriental. Fragrances in this family can include gardenia,
jas mine, freesia, and orange flower. A fine sweet fragrance can be based on Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl
Cinnamic Aldehyde, Vetiver including exotic spices and their essences.
Middle Muguet 8 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %
Floral Sweet # 1a
3 Amberwood 3 Helional
2 Oxanone 1 Raspberry Leaves - IFF
.1 Civet Powder # 1B 3 Orange Flower Base
.2 Raspberry Ketone 4 Pamplemousse
35 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 9 Triplal
2 Safraleine 1 Lyral
129 Galaxolide 50 .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
28 Salicylate De Benzyle 5 Aldehyde C - 16
4 Osyrol 3 Geranyl Acetate
3 Ethyl Butyrate .1 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
14 Alicate 22 Linalool - Kurary
35 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 Strawberry Pure
1 Ambrofix 13 Lemon Oil California
4 Styrax Coeur .2 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
7 Citroflex 1 Muguet Aldehyde
34 Benzyl Acetate 4 Lime - Gambia
2 Butyl Acetate 1 Methyl Tuberate Pure
1 Iso, Eugenol 44 Verdox
9 Hexyl Acetate .1 Folione
5 Methyl Benzoate 11 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme .1 Leaf Orient
8 Citronellol 750 2 Iridales
73 Muguet Base .1 Rose Turque Essence
9 Methyl Ionone 1 Honeysuckle
293 Di Propileno Glico
1 Ultrazeur
35 Geraniol 1,000
4 Florhydral
39 Linalyl Acetate
3 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
13 DMBC - Acetate
36 Di Hydro Myrcenol
9 Hexyl Salicylate
4 Sandela
Floral Sweet # 1b
Floral Sweet # 1c
FLORAL SWEET
Top Bergamot 5 %
Middle Jasmin 5 %
Base Musk 3 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 3 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %
Floral Sweet # 2a
Floral Sweet # 2b
Floral Sweet # 2c
FLORAL ALDEHYDIC
Floral aldehydic compounds were discovered in the 19th century. Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive
effect, and are characterized by a rich opulent top note. In small parts certain aldehydes are used as a top note
effect simulating a variety of floral scents that are found in nature. Muguet or Lily of the Valley based on
Hydroxycitronellal is a popular example. Utilizing aldehydes provide modern accords with a richness and
depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by
Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combina-
tion of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia.
Cassis 1 %
Middle Muguet 13 %
Base Musk 6 %
Civet - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %
Floral Aldehydic # 1a
Floral Aldehydic # 1b
Floral Aldehydic # 1c
FLORAL ALDEHYDIC
Top Bergamot 6 %
Orange Flower 1 %
Base Sandalwood 2 %
Civet - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Floral Aldehydic # 2a
Floral Aldehydic # 2b
Floral Aldehydic # 2c
FLORAL ALDEHYDIC
Bergamot 6 % - Dry
Middle Muguet 11 %
Base Sandalwood 2 %
Civet - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Floral Aldehydic # 3a
Floral Aldehydic # 3b
Floral Aldehydic # 3c
62 Galaxolide 50 34 Linalol S 97
47 Coumarin Pure 1 Methyl Diantilis
9 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Black Tea Extract
.1 Polarose 15 Orange Blossom Base
11 Sandalwood Oil East Indian .4 Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Lavender Oil - France
8 Vanillin 1 Geraniol - ex Plmarosa Oil
1 Delta Damascone 6 Cassis Fragrance
33 Benzyl Acetate 20 Linalyl Acetate
11 Rose For Soap Base .6 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
3 Acetate Iso Eugenol 1 Caraway Oil
111 Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 3 Ionone 100 %
3 Aspic Espagne .1 Celery Essence
12 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1 Rose Oil Templar
1 Dupical 6 Zeppin
3 Eugenol / Clove 8 Neroli Artessence
77 Iraldiene Standard Substitute 3 Bergamal
9 Lilial .1 Undecatriene
4 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Leaf Alcohol
11 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Fruitline AB876
32 Geraniol 3 Bourgenal
20 Benzyl Acetate 1 Mallow
.1 The
4 Citronellol
20 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less
323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
13 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
22 Eugenol / Clove
1 Petilyn
.2 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Nutmeg Oil - India
.1 Nonadienal
1 Kaffir Lime
CHYPRE FLORAL
Keeping this concept true to form the rose is used as a dominate theme. In my book titled, A Reference
Book On Fragrances I have a sub division that lists over 200 rose materials. Also used is a Gardenia accord
that can be artificially recreated using a Jasmin rose theme with Styrallyl Acetate as a predominate green note.
Middle Violet 7 %
Base Sandalwood .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 34 %
Chypre Floral # 1a
Chypre Floral # 1b
Chypre Floral # 1c
CHYPRE FRESH
The term fresh is open to a wide variety of interpretations. Fresh can be floral directed having its origins
in many different flowers, and of course with citrus top note components. With time this term has become
increasingly generic in its use.
Middle Jasmin 8 %
Base Tonka 3 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Chypre Fresh # 1a
Chypre Fresh # 1b
Chypre Fresh # 1c
CHYPRE FRESH
Top White Vineyard Peach 4 %
Ylang Ylang 3 %
Middle
Rose 9 % - Sweet, Sir Paul Smith Rose .5 %, Violet 5 % Floral
Vetiver 2 %
Reseda 1 %, Muguet 6 %, Jasmin 8 %
Base Patchouli 3 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %
Chypre Fresh # 2a
Chypre Fresh # 2b
Chypre Fresh # 2c
CHYPRE FRUITY
This concept is characterized by a predominate fruitiness often having a peach like fragrance. It is more
pronounced in this group having components that are inherent to this family.
Top Apple 3 %
Peach 1 %
Middle Jasmin 8 %
Base Musk 10 %
Moss - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %
Chypre Fruity # 1a
Chypre Fruity # 1b
Chypre Fruity # 1c
CHYPRE FRUITY
Top Vanoris 3 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %
Chypre Fruity # 2a
Chypre Fruity # 2b
Chypre Fruity# 2c
There are several popular animal notes that are employed in modern perfumery today. Musk was original-
ly obtained from the musk deer native to Asia. In dilution otherwise known as a tincture it has a distinctive
animal like note. Civet is a cat native to Ethiopia in Africa. The animal has a gland that produces a sweet urine
musk like odor that produces a velvety nuance to many fragrance blends in trace amounts. A third is Ambergris
produced by the sperm whale. Often this material gray in color is found washed up on the shores of beaches
around the world after being vomited by the whale. A pound of this material can bring a King's ransom. Today
most of the musk like animal materials are produced synthetically. Fine representations of this group include
Galaxolide 50, Ethylene Brassylate including Cashmeran, and Nepalva. Materials that include Phenyl produce
a musk like honey fragrance.
Top Bergamot 6 %
Middle Jasmin 7 %,
Tuberose - Trace
Base
Musk 18 %
Tonka 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %
9 Sandela 1 Breu
1 Moss Oliffac 3 Stemone
123 Galaxolide 50 19 Linalol Pur FT
8 Benzilique Alcool 1 Muguet Aldehyde 50
1 Ambre 140 1 Bergaleaves
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 10 Vert de Cassis Givco 180
1 Ambergris .1 Folione
32 Benzyl Salicylate 17 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
37 Traseolide 6 Di Ethyl Malonate
2 Cedraclaire 3 Cassis
11 Amyl Salicylate 2 Pearlate
4 Massada 38 Linalyl Acetate
3 Cashmeran .1 Rose Oil Bulgaria
.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C’Less 4 Applinal
1 Iso Rose 3 Menthanyl Acetate
11 Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 2 Pearalate
72 Acetate De Benzila 4 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
6 Vanilline .1 Leaf Acetal
18 Methyl Ionone Gamma 3 cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
103 Geraniol 5 Myraldyl Acetate
2 Iso Amyl Geranate .1 Orange Essence Oil
46 Muguet Base 2 Galbex 183
3 Ethyl Vanisal .1 Grapefruit Essence
5 Citronellol
1 Amyris Oil W.I.
267 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1,000
19 Rose For Soap Base
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1 p - Cresyl Acetate
.3 Mugone S 207M
.1 Alcohol C - 8
24 Bergamot Oil Substitute
4 Styrallyl Acetate
3 Top Galbanum 18.326
1 Musk Emeressence
11 Dimetol
Middle Jasmin 8 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %
CHYPRE GREEN
A delightful concept, and one of my favorites is the Green theme. It is always open for experimentation
and interpretations. Generally a wide variety of floral components are incorporated into this arrangement with
a greenness based on Galbanum, Muguet, or Lily of the Valley, with strong green like synthetic notes. Often
added are herbaceous coniferous traces to round off this accord.
Middle Argumen 1 %
Moss - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Alccohol 2 %
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %
Chypre Green # 1a
Chypre Green # 1b
Chypre Green # 1c
CHYPRE GREEN
Middle Muguet 11 %
Chypre Green # 2a
Chypre Green # 2b
Chypre Green # 2c
CHYPRE GREEN
Top Lime 2 %
Middle Rose 9 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Chypre Green # 3a
Chypre Green # 3b
Chypre Green # 3c
FLORIENTAL
A Floriental is a new family of fine fragrances. The heart of the composition is based on a floral arrange-
ment with a slight emphasis on oriental notes. Whether this fragrance should be classified in the floral family
of fragrances or the oriental is open for debate. I decided to place it before the oriental family since the spice
notes will predominate most arrangements.
Top Peach 1 %
Middle Rose 6 %
Opoponax 1 %
Base
Myrrh .5 %, Benzoin .5 %, Tonka 5 % Warm Spicy
Bacdanol 1 %, Vanilla .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %
Floriental # 1a
Floriental # 1b
Floriental # 1c
ORIENTAL SWEET
An oriental sweet scent can have a citrus top note and a sweet vanilla amber foundation. Vanillin, and Ethyl
Vanillin both aldehydes can be used up to 10 % providing that extra sweetness. One can also utilize Balsam
Peru Oil, Vanilla Tincture, Vanilla Sur Abs. C'Less MD in conjunction with Benzyl family of materials.
Middle Muguet 4 %
Violet 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 7 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %
Oriental Sweet # 1a
Oriental Sweet # 1b
Oriental Sweet # 1c
9 Helional 4 Laurine
8 Vanillin 3 Caryophyllene Acetate
3 Cedrenyl Acetate .1 Methyl Cinnimate
12 Benzyl Benzoate 5 Thyme Inco 20
28 Galaxolide 50 9 Terpinyl Acetate
22 Sandalwood Extender 4 Cassia
39 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 17 Orange Oil Guinea
8 Patchouli Indonesia 5 Zinergone
4 Cinnamon Bark Sri Lanka 40 % 1 Florymoss
73 Benzyl Salicylate 98 % 29 Linalyl Acetate
1 Earth 13 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
26 Hydroxycitronellal A 4 Vetiver Acetate
32 Hexil Cinamic Aldeido 3 Clove Bud Oil
1 Amber Core 32 Peach Pure - Givaudan
4 Vanillin, ethyl 7 Benzoin Siam Resinoid
8 alpha - Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Black Agar Givco 215
43 MDJ 6 Peach Aroma Base
9 Cinnamon Bark Substitute 12 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
13 Lilial 1 Pepperwood
6 Cironellol 3 Bay Leaves Oil Anise
1 Fixateur 404 .1 Rose Oxide - ( Z )
48 Carnation Base 1 Spicy Carbonate
.2 Melaleuca Altrni Folia 1 Persil Feuilles
35 Geraniol 3 Cyclamen Aldehyde
1 Pepper ( Jalapeno )
308 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
11 Iso Eugenol Replacement 1,000
8 Methyl Ionone Beta
17 Eugenol
4 Koavonne
47 Linalol S 97
2 Styrallyl Acetate
.1 Tomato Leaves
1 CIS Jasmone
.1 Sandalwood Essence
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
1 Acalea II
ORIENTAL SPICY
Incorporating spicy ingredients often from Indian can include clove, nutmeg and carnation, cardamom and
curry. Adding musk materials that can include floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang tend to provide
a delicate touch to this group. The notes can be bitter, or contain sweet elements A fragrance in this area is dis-
tinctive, and can be enjoyed by both men and women. Many perfumers add balsamic notes derived from bal-
sam materials including resinous notes derived from Balsam Peru.
Middle Violet 2 %
Muguet 5 %
Base Vanilla 2 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 7 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %
Oriental Sweet # 1a
9 Vanisal 1 Undecatriene
10 Osyrol 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan
22 Benzoato Benzila 43 Linalool Synthetic FCC
.1 Iso Propyl Quinoline 4 Jamsonyl Acetate
10 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 1 Celery Seed Oil - India
34 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Floralol
9 Javanol 2 Cyclamen Aldehyde
8 Vertofix Coeur 12 Peach Pure
67 Benzylsalicylate 5 Vetiver Acetate
5 Methyl Jasmonate .3 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
4 Florhydral 24 Orange Oil of California
2 Methyl Benzoate .1 Alcohol C - 9
31 Super Cepionate .1 Ylang # 1
28 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Bourgenal
24 Vetiver Extender 1 Geranium Over Roses
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Rose Acetate
8 Benteine 9 Cinnamon - Chinese
4 Farnesol Oil 58 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
3 Irone V 4 Melfloral
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 3 Neryl Acetate
4 Meijiff 2 Stemone
5 Verdantiol 1 Pepper Black India Essence
43 Carnation Base .1 Alcohol C - 10
3 Dianthanol 9 Orange Oils, Dark
323 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Anisyl Alcohol
6 Sandalwood Mysore 37 Geraniol
4 Laurine
8 Rose For Soap Base
4 Kephalis 1,000
3 Phixia
48 Muguet Base
8 Citronellol
7 Phenylethylalcohol
3 Styrallylacetate
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Caraway
Oriental Sweet # 1b
5 Vanisal 1 Undecatriene
8 Sandela 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan
22 Benzoato Benzila 43 Linalool Synthetic FCC
.1 Earth 4 Jamsonyl Acetate
10 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 1 Celery Seed Oil - India
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 3 Floralol
9 Javanol 2 Ciclamen Aldeido
8 Vertofix 12 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
69 Benzylsalicylate 5 Verdantiol
5 Methyl Jasmonate .3 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
4 Pescheux 34 Orange Oil Sweet
2 Methyl Benzoate .1 Alcohol C - 9
21 Hedione High Cis .1 Ylang # 3
28 Hexil Cinamico Aldeido 1 Bourgenal
24 Vetiver Extender 1 Geranium Over Roses
7 Ethyl, Vanillin 1 Rose Acetate
8 Benteine 11 Cinnamon - Chinese
4 Farnesol Oil 48 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
3 Irone V 2 Melfloral
6 Cinnamic Alcohol 3 Neryl Acetate
4 Meijiff 2 Stemone
5 Sandela 1 Pepper Black India Essence
43 Carnation Base .1 Alcohol C - 10
3 Bisabolene 9 Orange Oils, Dark
333 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 1 Anisyl Alcohol
6 Sandalwood Mysore 37 Geraniol
4 Laurine Extra
8 Rose Base
4 Kephalis 1,000
3 Phixia
48 Muguet Base
8 Citronellol 750
7 Phenylethylalcohol
3 cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Cosmone - Givaudan
Oriental Sweet # 1c
9 Vanisal 1 Caraway
8 Bacdanol 1 Corsican Violet
22 Benzoato Benzila 14 Peach Pure - Givaudan
.1 Earth 43 Linalool
7 Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG 4 Jasmone
39 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 1 May Rose
9 Javanol 3 Floralol
8 Vertofix 2 Ciclamen Aldeido
67 Benzylsalicylate 12 Peach Blossom FM - 1042
3 Myraldyl Acetate 5 Vetiver Acetate
6 Pomarose .3 Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
2 Methyl Benzoate 24 Orange Oil Sweet
31 Benzyl Acetate Coeur .1 Alcohol C - 8
28 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Ylang # 2
20 Vetiver Extender 1 Bourgenal
7 Ethyl Vanillin 1 Citronellyl Acetate
10 Iso Jasmone 1 Meranol
5 Nerolidol 9 Cinnamon - Chinese
3 Irone V 58 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
8 Cinnamic Alcohol 4 Melfloral
2 Meijiff 3 Neryl Acetate
5 Verdantiol 2 Stemone
45 Carnation Base 1 Pepper Black India Essence
1 Bisabolene .1 Alcohol C - 10
326 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG) 9 Orange Oils, Dark
3 Sandalwood Mysore 1 Anisyl Alcohol
4 Meijiff 37 Geraniol
5 Rose Base # 60
4 Kephalis
3 Phixia 1,000
51 Muguet Base
8 Citronellol
7 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
3 Styrallylacetate
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
ORIENTAL SPICY
Top Strawberry 1 %
Middle Cinnamon 2 %
Base Tonka 6 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Hercolyn - D 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %
Oriental Spicy
Oriental Spicy # 1b
Oriental Spicy # 1c
ORIENTAL SPICY
Top Lemon 4 %
Jasmin 3 %, Cinnamon 7 %
Base Musk 3 %
Moss - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylae 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %
Oriental Spicy # 2a
Oriental Spicy # 2b
Oriental Spicy # 2c
Fragrance Families
EN'S FRAGRANCES TODAY ARE OPEN TO A MYRIAD OF INTERPRETATIONS based on Lavender, Fougere,
M Oriental, Chypre and Citrus. The Oriental, and Chypre group shares a common theme with women's fra-
grances
MASCULINE NOTES
Lavender Family:
The fragrances are comprised of a union of lavender, or lavandin notes atop a mossy base with a citrusy
freshness. Fougere Royale by Houbigant was the first scent in this class. The Lavender and Fougere families
are similar often incorporating aroma materials that can be found in either theme. Originally it was intended
for women, but soon found its way to the men's side. Having fresh lavender as the main part of the fragrance
there is less room for creative interpretation. Both fresh and spicy themes predominate.
Lavender Fresh
This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas
opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.
Lavender Spicy
Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone
centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide
range of different themes.
Fougere Family:
The French word for Fern is Fougere. Ferns found in nature have very little odor. Generally the concept is
based on herbaceous materials that include Coumarin, Oak Moss, Lavender and Geranium. They are aromatic
often with a camphoraceous, minty, eucalyptus like with an earthy nuance. They are usually found on low-
growing, unobtrusively blossoming plants. Other examples include rosemary, sage as well as peppermint and
lavender. It also can be quite representative of a woodland accord.
Fougere Royale first introduced by Houbigant in 1882 was the start of this family. A composition can uti-
lize a wide range of aromatic chemicals as mentioned above including a variety of herbs, geranium and ferns.
The group was originally intended for the feminine market. However, it soon found its way to the men's side of
the fragrance isle. There are four sub-divisions in this group headed by Floral, Fresh, Woody and Sweet themes.
Fougere Fresh
This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh
approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.
Fougere Floral
The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations
of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.
Fougere Woody
This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be
used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and
animal materials.
Fougere Sweet
This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known
today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on
the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized.
Oriental Family:
The oriental family of fine fragrances is shared with the women. Scents in this family include amber, vanil-
la, woods, and resins. Spice materials such as cardamom, nutmeg, caraway, cassia, carnation, cinnamon find
their way in a variety of interesting combinations with a masculine theme. Floral notes such as rose and jas-
mine including the violet are part of the accord. Bay Oil from the West Indies including Pepper, Basil and
Olibanum are popular base materials. The mystery of the orient gives forth to an interesting, and at the same
time delightful group of fragrances.
Oriental Sweet
An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fra-
grances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength.
Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme.
Oriental Spicy
Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous
materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.
Chypre Family:
A Chypre fragrance was originally created by Francois Coty, and is based on ingredients originally from the
Mediterranean countries. It emphases the contrast between the citrus freshness of bergamot type top notes and
a mossy patchouli base. Chypre perfumes tend to be strong, and aromatic. In the men's side of the family there
are five main groups that have a woody, leathery, coniferous, fresh and green themes. There is a wide range of
accords that can be achieved by combining masculine aroma notes in daring ways. It is reminiscent of those
who love to explore, and enjoy the fresh outdoors.
Chypre Woody
This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which
smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and
warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like
note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly
fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and
can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.
Chypre Leather
Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include
Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including
Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of
course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS - 3768, and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great
care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that
includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling
strip well over a month.
Chypre Coniferous
A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy,
herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately
resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes
are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes.
Chypre Fresh
A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have
a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.
Chypre Green
The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often
Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.
Citrus Family:
This is predominately a man's group of fragrances. Often citrus notes are combined in fine floral fruity
accords to strengthen the top note of this group of fragrances. They are predominately light and fresh with an
overwhelming citrus note such as bergamot, orange, lemon, lime, petitgrain, grapefruit, tangerine, and man-
darin. Citrus fragrances are refreshing very popular in the summer.
Citrus Floral:
A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note based on the above.
Citrus Fantasy
A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of
many different citrus notes to produce different effects.
Citrus Fresh
A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another.
A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.
Citrus Green
A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum
Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green
note aromas.
Ozone Family:
Oceanic, ozone, watery are an example of a new group of fragrances. Often they are described as things
you can't bottle naturally like ocean spray, mountain air, or freshly laundered clothes. There is a wide range of
fragrant ingredient materials available as outlined below:
Alfania Base # 38228 If a compound based on alfalfa most likely green or herbal.
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Mild herbaceous reminiscent of many types of flowers.
Anisyl Formate Sweet herbaceous green somewhat dry odor.
Armoise Oil Herbaceous green.
Geranium Moroccan Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor.
Gyrane A diffusive herbal green type odor.
Iso Butyl Caproate Mild herbaceous woody, but over all fruity oily odor.
Iso Butyl Salicylate Sweet harsh herbaceous floral.
Iso Nonyl Alcohol Powerful oily herbaceous, dilution - sweet odor.
Iso Plugeol Minty herbaceous reminiscent of the first smell of tuberose.
LAVENDER FRESH
This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas
opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.
Top Lavender 7 %
Basil 1 %, Rose
Middle Jasmin 3 %
Vanilla 3 %
Base
Tonka 1 %, Benzoin 1 %, Musk 4 % Sweet
Labdanum .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate .5 %
Benzyl Salicylate .5 %
Hercolyn - D 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %
Lavender Fresh # 1a
Lavender Fresh # 1b
Lavender Fresh # 1c
LAVENDER SPICY
Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone
centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide
range of different themes.
Top Lavender 6 %
Lemon 3 %, Basil 1 %
Middle Rose 5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Lavender Spicy # 1a
Lavender Spicy # 1b
Lavender Spicy # 1c
FOUGERE FRESH
This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh
approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.
Top Bergamot 5 %
Middle Cedar 3 %
Base Patchouli 3 %
Musk 3 %, Leather 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %
Fougere Fresh # 1a
Fougere Fresh # 1b
Fougere Fresh # 1c
FOUGERE FLORAL
The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations
of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.
Top Artemesia 3 %
Middle Rose 4 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %
Fougere Floral # 1a
Fougere Floral # 1b
Fougere Floral # 1c
FOUGERE FLORAL
Top Lavender 7 %
Middle Geranium 2 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 3 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Fougere Floral # 2a
Fougere Floral # 2b
Fougere Floral # 2c
FOUGERE WOODY
This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be
used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and
animal materials.
Top Lavender 6 %
Middle Cedarwood 4 %
Amyl Salicylate 1 % Fir Needle Oil 3 %, Jasmin 1.5 %, Carnation 1 % Floral Woody
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %
Iso E Super 3 % Fern 1 %, Pine 3 %, Rose 2 %, Violet 4 %
Base Sandalwood 5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Fougere Woody # 1a
Fougere Woody # 1b
Fougere Woody # 1c
FOUGERE SWEET
This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known
today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on
the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized.
Top Lavender 7 %
Middle Carnation 5 %
Base Musk 2 %
Patchouli 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %
Fougere Sweet # 1a
Fougere Sweet # 1b
Fougere Sweet # 1c
ORIENTAL SWEET
An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fra-
grances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength.
Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme.
Top Jasmin 2 %
Middle Violet 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 7 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %
Oriental Sweet # 1a
11 Bacdanol .1 Civet
9 Benzyl Benzoate 9 Ylang Ylang Synthetic
6 Vanilla Beans, Indonesia 28 Peach Aldehyde
19 Sandalwood Substitute 1 Rosardia Augaflor 21
10 Rhodiascent Extra Pure 3 Neroli Artessence
39 Phthalate D’Ethyle .1 Undecavertol
1 Mousse De Metre 2 Methyl Diantilis
4 Sandalwood, Java 11 Ionone Alpha White Coeur
23 Galaxolide Artessence 35 Linalyl Acetate
72 Benzyl Salicylate .1 Alcohol C - 10
9 Patchouli Oil MD 2 Styrallylacetate
11 Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid 1 Iso Jasmone
8 Ethyl Vanillin 9 Lavender Oliffac
43 Benzyl Acetate 6 Anapear - Givaudan
9 Jasphene .3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
1 Carnaline 11 Orange Oil, Sweet
38 Vetiver Extender 4 Vetiver Acetate
4 Fleuramone 3 Ciclamen Aldeido
22 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde .1 Vanilla Absolute
3 Orris Oil 1 Kir Base # 9741
.1 Earth 1 Mysoriff
45 Geraniol 60 3 Nerol G
9 Hydroxycitronellal A 5 Vertifloreol
6 Citronellol 9 Clemflor
1 Balsam Peru Oliffac .1 Decanal 4 Trans
3 Javanol
329 Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 1,000
1 Sandalwood Agemarked E.I.
25 Muguet Base
33 Carnation Base
.1 Parmavert
3 Nutmeg, Ceylon
1 Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
47 Linalool Coeur
.1 Violiff
Oriental Sweet # 1b
Oriental Sweet # 1c
Coumarin Sub # 772A Almost oppressively cloying, more vanilla then herbaceous.
Cubeb Oil Dry woody, but simultaneously warm camphoraceous spicy.
Cumin Oil Extremely powerful diffusive green spicy, slightly fatty odor.
Curruma Oil Spicy and fresh Rem of sweet orange, ginger & galganga oil.
Cyclotene Sweet and very powerful, caramellic spicy odor, walnut mapple.
Pepper Oil Black Fresh dry, woody warm spicy odor resembles dried pepper.
ORIENTAL SPICY
Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous
materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.
Top Bergamot 6 %
Middle Cinnamon 3 %
Base Tonka 6 %
Sandalwood 2 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2%
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Oriental Spicy # 1a
1 Heliotropine 4 Pepperwood
17 Alicate 9 Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Sri. Lanka
28 Benzylsalicylate 6 Jasmolactone Extra C
22 Ethylene Brassylate 23 Orange Oil, Sweet
10 Opoponax Base .3 Tobacco Tincture
3 Thymoxane 11 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
38 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 6 Suderal LT
8 Sandela 13 Terpinyl Acetate
6 Caryophylline 919 41 Lemon Italian Select ( Winter Crop )
11 Myrrh Resinoid Washed 1 Suderal LT
15 Cinnamon Bark Substitute .2 Tea Tree Oil
.1 Lichen 6 Benzaldehyde
33 Eugenol 4 Clove Oil, Rectified
27 Benzyl Acetate 9 Linalool
14 alpha Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol 1 Clemenflor
9 Lilial 3 Melon Oliffac
4 Bisabolene .1 Lavender Absolute
3 Tonka Resinoid 1 Nerol
12 Carnation Base 5 Methyl Diantilis
15 Hercolyn - D 3 Iso - Eugenol
4 Pepperwood 22 Linalyl Acetate
8 Thymol Crystals 3 Girofle Clove Oil
53 Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC
306 Di Propileno Glico 2 Tangerinol
14 Ionone Alpha 60
9 Citronellol
12 Ylang Ylang Synthetic 1,000
6 Raspberry Ketone
72 Geraniol
4 Jasmin Egypt
45 Muguet Base
2 Piper Nigrum - Black Pepper
1 Anisaldehyde
.3 Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
7 Geranyl Acetate
Oriental Spicy # 1b
Oriental Spicy # 1c
Cortex Aldehyde Powerful green woody sap like, but fresh aldehydic sweet.
Costus Oil Peculiar soft tenacious, reminiscent of old precious wood.
Cubeb Oil Dry woody, but simultaneously warm camphoraceous spicy.
Cypress Oil Pleasing smoky woody similar to amber.
Fir Needle Balsam Resin A powerful diffusive pine forest type odor.
Fir Needle Canadian Rich balsamic sweet, and pleasant oily pinaceous fragrance.
Fir Needle Siberian Refreshing balsamic, slight fatty oily with Pw pine forest odor.
Fixolide Sweet woody musky.
Fleuroxene A strong green floral woody non descript odor.
Woodine Woody.
CHYPRE WOODY
This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which
smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and
warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like
note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly
fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and
can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.
Top Lime 3 %
Middle Veternex 19 %
Iso E Super - 2 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 25 %
Chypre Woody # 1a
Chypre Woody # 1b
Chypre Woody # 1c
CHYPRE WOODY
Pear - Trace
Middle Lyral 8 %
Base Musk 12 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %
Chypre Woody # 2a
Chypre Woody # 2b
Chypre Woody # 2c
CHYPRE WOODY
Violet Note
Middle Jasmin 1 %
Base Sandalwood 25 %
Musk 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %
Chypre Woody # 3a
Chypre Woody # 3b
Chypre Woody # 3c
CHYPRE WOODY
Top Bergamot 5 %
Basil 8 % - Fruity
Middle Woody 16 %
Base Musk 4 %
Vanilla - .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1%
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 25 %
Chypre Woody # 4a
Chypre Woody # 4b
Chypre Woody # 4c
Tree Moss Abs. A strong and at the same time persistent moss odor.
Tree Moss Abs. C ' Less M.D. A powerful mossy type odor which lasts days on the blotter.
Tree Moss C ' Less L.C. A diffusive tree moss woody odor.
Amber
Tobacco
Tabac Balkan Dec. Abs. Strong almost repulsive faintly reminiscent of cigar tobacco.
Tabac Noir Abs. Warm aromatic intense odour of tobacco.
Tabanon Warm, dry sweet tobacco like with good fixation.
Tetra Hydro Para Methyl Is frequently used in traces for artificial civet bases and in heavy oriental com
Quinoline positions. It produces honey, tobacco and animal notes also giving excellent f
fixation.
The/Res Inc ( Tea ) Resinoid Warm and reminiscent of tobacco.
Tobacarol Woody, amber, spicy tobacco.
Tobacco Abs. A diffusive material reminiscent of fresh tobacco leaves.
CHYPRE CONIFEROUS
A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy,
herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately
resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes
are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes.
Top Rosemary 1 %
Sage .5 %
Middle Pine 8 %
Sandalwood 3 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %
Chypre Coniferous # 1a
Chypre Coniferous # 1b
Chypre Coniferous # 1c
Iso Butyl Quinoline Used in chypre, leather and woody compositions. It is widely used
in masculine colognes where its vibrant, intense leather character
CHYPRE LEATHER
Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include
Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including
Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of
course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS - 3768, and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great
care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that
includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling
strip well over a month.
Top Tangerine 2 %
Bergamot 1 %
Middle Rose 3 %
Base Musk 7 %
Leather 1.5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Chypre Leather # 1a
Chypre Leather # 1b
Chypre Leather # 1c
CHYPRE FRESH
A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have
a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.
Top Bergamot 6 %
Green Notes
Middle Muguet 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Chypre Fresh # 1a
Chypre Fresh # 1b
Chypre Fresh # 1c
CHYPRE GREEN
The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often
Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.
Middle Argumen 2 %
Patchouli 2 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 34 %
Chypre Green # 1a
Chypre Green # 1b
Chypre Green # 1c
Cedrat Peel Oil A citrus fruit that resembles the lemon in appearance.
Cedrat Petitgrain Oil Oil obtained from the leaves and twigs of the sour orange.
Citracetal Citrus like odor, close to citral in it's strength.
Citral Powerful lemony fragrance.
Citral Di Ethyl Acetal Fine, fresh, citrusy stable in alkalis, fresher then nitrile.
Citral Di Methyl Acetal Has a milder but much more natural lemon odor than citral.
Citral Di Methyl Acetal Pure Very pleasant, floral lemon note.
Citral Extra Finest quality of citral.
Citral 700 Strong lemon odor suitable for chemical intermediate use.
Citral 750 Grade suitable for chemical intermediate use.
Citral 850 Clean, fresh citrus lemon odor.
Citral 900 Intermediate grade, citrus lemon odor.
Citral Residues A verbana grassy sweet type odor very diffusive.
Citral Terpenes Harsh citral lemon odor.
Citral X Lemon Fresh, juicy lemon peel, with a sweet tang nuance.
Citral X Litsea Powerful, fresh top note, lemon.
Citralex Fresh lemon, clean citrus odor resembling citral.
Citralva Powerful oily green lemony fresh odor.
Citralva Plus Intense lemon character, non discoloring.
Citrathal Distinctive fresh lemon lime lasts one day.
Citrathanil ABQ7023 Is more green floral and tenacious lemon then agrudor.
Citric Acid Amhydrus A crystalline acid with a pleasant acid taste.
Citrilys Givco 169 A pleasant citrus accord which evokes freshly squeezed tangerine peel blended
with floral marine notes, giving it an unusual sparkling zest. The fruity back
ground enhances the composition's natural aspect. Extremely diffusive and
long-lasting, it performs well in most functional product bases. Designed for
use as a top and middle note, it gives freshness and volume to all citrus, floral
and green accords.
Citrofuran AB5531 Is a more lavandacious citrus complex containing rhubafuran.
Citronal Fruity.
Citron Leaf Rectified Oil Tree native to asia having lemon like fruit with aromatic rind.
Citronalva Citrus, lemon, aldehydic, metallic.
Citronama Intense orange, ginger, palmarosa with ozone muguet aspects.
Jonquille Jacinthe Abs. A moderate orange that is yellower and stronger then honey dew.
Lemon Juicy Fresh juicy lemon with a sweet citral terpeney nuance.
Lemon Oil Typical lemon and refreshing.
Lemon Oil 5 Fold Purer sweeter lemon.
Lemon Oil Italian A lemon which is sweet and juicy from Italy.
Lemon Oil of California Sweet juicy lemon.
Lemon Oil Reconstructed A reconstituted fragrance closely resembling the essential oil.
Lemon Oil Spanish Sweet, fruity odor of lemon, source Spain.
Lemon Oil Synthetic Low cost reconstitution lasts one day.
Lemon Oil Washed A slightly lighter and sweeter juicy lemon.
Lemon Petitgrain Oil Strong fresh odor with a woody dry out.
Lemonrone Lemonrone Powerful lemon fragrance very chemical like.
Lemon Terpenes Mildly lemon.
Lemorale Brisk fresh top note useful for lemon limes bergamot herbal.
Lemon 360 A slightly sweet fruity lemon odor.
Lemsyn Synthetic citral.
Lime AB402 Sweet yet sharp lasts a few weeks.
Lime Blossom The oil made from the flowers has a fresh green muguet lily like fragrance.
Can be used as a floralizer to create interesting effects in many blends.
Lime Exp. H C Free A natural oil which has terpene and sequesterpene removed.
Lime Expressed NPT Similar odor to the natural expressed oil free of phototoxic.
Lime Oil Distilled A tart sour ball candy like lime odor, very sweet.
Lime Oil Distilled 4 Fold W.I. A tart lime odor vacum distilled for terpene removal.
Lime Oil # 410 Oily sweet fruity lime.
Lime Oil 4 Fold Sweeter juicer resulting from vacum distillation process.
Lime Oil Expressed A lime fragrance fresh from the peel very reminiscent.
Lime Oil Expressed 4 Fold W.I. A fresh slightly tart peel like in sweetness lime odor.
Lime Oil Nardenised Sweet, pure deterpinseed oil with petitgran character on dry out.
Lime Oil Reconstructed A reconstituted oil closely resembling the odor of a lime.
Lime Oil Roses Type Sweet, juicy, candy lime like with a fresh peel character.
Lime Terpenes Lime.
Lime Oil Terpeneless Lime oil with the terpenes removed.
Lime Oil Sequisterpeneless Lime oil terpene free.
Lime Oxide Adds freshness and intensity to perfumes designed for functional products
It is also a powerful citrus booster with excellent stability in many applications
applications, including bleach.
Limetol Is used where a lemon-woody note is desired. It also offers pine needle and
lime nuances.
Limettal ABQ5701 Tingling, fresh floral aldehydic, long lasting.
Limettene Very strong pleasant fresh citrus note.
Limonene - D Fresh and light sweet citrussy odor resembles orange peel.
Limonene 130 Fresh hydrocarbon type lemon odor.
Limonene Tech. Fresh clean citrus odor of the orange.
Linaloe Wood Essence Floral rose citrus, soft and sweet.
Orange Essence Oil A natural oil free from terpene and sequesterpenes.
Orange Flavor Zing. Green, fresh juicy sweet orange for juicy top notes in citrus blends.
Orange Flower Absolute Has a very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate and fresh,
long lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh bitter orange blossoms.
Although this absolute certainly has notes in common with jasmin absolute, it
has a much more versatile application as a floral fond when used at a compara-
tively low concentration. It shows a pleasant, but peculiar and characteristic,
sweet herbaceous backnote, not unlike the one found in jasmin.
Orange Flower Bitter Very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate and fresh, long
lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh bitter orange blossoms.
Orange Flower Concrete A dark, brownish or orange brown paste or soft mass. Its odor is extremely
strong, floral, deep sweet, with a peculiar woody breadcrust like backnote and
great tenacity in floral notes. In high dilution, it is strikingly reminiscent of the
odor of fresh orange blossoms.
Orange Flower Ether Citrus grapefuit note also reminiscent of bergamot orange.
Orange Guinea Oil Sweet fruity, reminiscent of the orange peel.
Orange Isolate Has odor of natural peel, juicy with a rich aldehydic tone.
O.J. Carbinyl STD Very juicy with an orange top note.
O.J. Carbinyl VCV Orange, source is most likely valencia oranges.
Orange Juice Extract Natural 4/10 Very characteristic of freshly squeezed oranges without the pulp or slight bitter
taste that naturally occurs in the fresh fruit. Overall a delightful fragrance suit-
able for many different creative blends.
Orange Oil Bitter Bright bitter odor of oranges.
Orange Oil California Sweet orange peel like odor.
Orange Oil Distilled Orange peel like slightly less sweet and juicy.
Orange Oil 5 Fold A very weak orange peel like odor.
Orange Oil Fla. Mid Season Fruity orange.
Orange Oil Guinea C.P. Orange, source Guinea, a country located on the west coast of Africa.
Orange Oil Nardenised A beautiful sweet, deterpenised oil.
Orange Residue Orange peel type odor, however not sweet like california oranges.
Orange Oil Sweet Sweet fruity odor of oranges.
Orange Terpenes Sweet fruity orange.
Orange Terpeneless A nice light rich very smooth orange odor.
Orange Terpeneless Sweet fruity orange peel like, very nice.
Orange Oil Terpeneless Special A A sweet fruity very smooth orange soda like odor.
Orange Oil Terpeneless Extra A delicately sweet orange peel odor reminiscent of orange preserves.
Orange Terpeneless X 5 Fold A very weak pure orange odor.
Orange Oil Valencia Orange, source valencia type florida oranges.
Orange Wax A real orange peel like odor, neither sweet or juicy.
Oranger Crystals Sweet and very tenacious orange blossom.
Oranger Guiena Essence Sweet fruity and characteristic of orange peel.
Oranger Liquid Sweet floral rather harsh orange blossom.
Ozonil Very strong fruity reminiscent of nuances in orange and mandarin oil.
Rhodinol Augaflor 18 This crisp, citrusy type compound can implant an element of Lemon in a per
fume. Gives the finished fragrance a freshness of smell, and touch much sought
after.
Schiff Base Ligantraal, green citrus, orange blossom best in 10 % solution.
Sino Citral Fresh citral lemony with a floral background.
Sinocitril ABQ4020 Powerful aldehydic floral which has an enhanced tangerine character.
Stymonile ABQ7020 Is a zesty citrusy, radiant, ozone fresh complex.
Tamarine Base 41.310 Very diffusive and natural note of the green mandarine.
Tangelo Oil The fragrance is a cross between a grapefruit and a tangerine. They
have become a popular fruit commercially, since they are larger
than tangerines with less seeds. Altogether fresh and citrusy.
Tangerine Essence Fruity, characteristic sweet tangy tangerine.
Tangerine Oil Fresh sweet odor reminiscent of valencia oranges.
Tangerine Oil Florida Fresh sweet odor of valencia oranges.
Tangerine Terpenes Fresh sweet fruity odor of valencia oranges.
Tangerine Type Oil Sweet tangy tangerine like reminiscent of the peel.
Tangeris Givco 212 A pleasant citrus accord that evokes freshly squeezed tangerine peel, blended
with floral, marine notes that give it an unusual sparkling zest. The fruity back
ground enhances the composition's natural aspect. Extremely diffusive and
long-lasting, it performs well in most functional product bases. Designed for
use as a top and middle note, it gives freshness and volume to all citrus, floral
and green accords.
Terpinene Gamma Terpeney, sweet, citrus with tropical and lime nuances.
Terpinyl Acetate Extra Sweet slightly herbaceous of the bergamot lavender.
Terpinyl Acetate (CST) Sweet, herbal, bergamot pure.
Terpinyl Acetate (GUM) Sweet, herbal, bergamot lavender.
Tetra Hydro Mugol Coeur Floral, citrus woody.
Tetra Hydro Myrcenol Citrus, lime, sweet juicy.
Triplal Powerful citrus green.
Triplal Extra Green, citrus, herbal, aldehydic.
CITRUS FLORAL
A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note.
Top Lime 5 %
Middle Lavender 3 %
Base Musk 1 %
Patchouli 2 %
Bases:
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 20 %
Citrus Floral # 1a
Citrus Floral # 1b
Citrus Floral # 1c
CITRUS FANTASY
A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of
many different citrus notes to produce different effects.
Top Bergamot 10 %
Violet 4 %, Lavender 2 %
Base Vanilla 2 %
Patchouli 2 %, Pine 1 %
Bases:
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 19 %
Citrus Fantasy # 1a
Citrus Fantasy # 1b
Citrus Fantasy # 1c
CITRUS FRESH
A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another.
A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.
Top Lemon 3 %
Vanilla 2 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Di Ethyl hthalate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %
Citrus Fresh # 1a
Citrus Fresh # 1b
Citrus Fresh # 1c
CITRUS GREEN
A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum
Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green
note aromas.
Top Tangerine 1 %
Jasmin 2 %, Geranium .5 %
Base Musk 2 %
Sandalwood .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Hercolyn - D 3 %
Citrus Green # 1a
Citrus Green # 1b
Citrus Green # 1c
4 Vanillin 6 Valencene
21 Alcool Benzilico 1 Citronellyl Acetate
8 Patchouli Dark OE .1 Aldehyde C - 10
4 Givescone 4 Dimetol
33 Benzyl Salicylate - IFF 6 Orange Power Givco 229
7 Sandalwood Oil Extender 3 Styrallyl Acetate
19 Galaxolide 1 Aldehyde Mandarin 10 % Citr
53 Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP) 4 Lavender Oliffac
1 Amboryl Acetate 3 Veteacetal
14 Gamma Terpenes 9 Mandarine
23 Amyl Salicylate 1 Glycolierral
25 Cepionate 4 Petilime FM 1213
6 y - Irone 7 Allyl Amyl Glycolate
261 D’Limonene Substitute .2 Orange Essence Oil
9 Ionone Alpha 60 1 Geranodyle
11 Citronellal Oil Java 1 Cis Jasmone
4 Florhydral 11 Tangerine, Florida
3 Ethyl Vanisal 1 Nerol
25 Citral Extra 2 Vernol
41 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 Artemisa
17 Para Cymene .1 Rose Oxide R
1 Musk Emeressence 2 Formate De Geranyle
15 Citronelol 51 Linalyl Acetate
11 Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
79 Hercolyn - D
17 D. Limonene 1,000
21 Geraniol
3 Methyl Nonyl Ketone
6 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
.1 Orange Aldehyde
37 Orange Oil Guinea
.3 Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
4 Iso Nonyl Acetate
35 Ethyl Linalool
63 Orange Oil Substitute
Bibliography