WHITE DWARF PRESENTS THE PAINTING GUIDE csJOHN BLANCHE Nothing brings a tabletop to life quite like a well painted army of Citadel Miniatures. With the phenomenal explosion of interest in the fascinating hobby of collecting and painting fantasy and science fiction models, the time has come to produce a definitive step-by-step guide to the basic techniques. This booklet is designed to explain how to prepare and paint your models to achieve the best results. If you've never painted a miniature before, this guide will tell you exactly what to do. It will also help the more experienced painter to further develop and improve their skill ‘The growth of roleplaying and tabletop battlegames over the last few years has resulted in increasing demands by collectors and gamers for metal and plastic miniatures to represent their characters and forces. In response to this demand, Citadel Miniatures produces an unsurpassed range of models to represent all of their favourite heroes and villains. Over the years, since Citadel first began production, the skill of the company’s designers and the technology of casting has developed to a point where the detail of the ‘models makes them not so much playing pieces as miniature sculptures. As the quality of the models has improved, so too have the techniques used to paint them. ‘Advanced techniques for shading, highlighting, Jobn Blanche's Undead Diorama John Blanche has been illustrating Games Workshop's range of fantasy ‘games for nearly a decade and his work is known and admired throughout the world. It all started when John became hooked on painting Citadel Miniatures. In his spare time, when he’s not tearing around the Nottingham countryside on his Harley Davidson, John still produces some of the finest finished models in the hobby, and so who better to introduce the Citadel Miniatures Painting Guide. blending and picking out the intricate detail, have resulted in miniatures of unparalleled subtlety and realism. Miniature painting is now a major pastime in its own right; there are plenty of people who collect and paint miniatures, who never use them for gaming. Then again, there are many roleplayers and tabletop gamers who spend hours and weeks preparing their characters and armies for forthcoming games. The hobby has its own competitions, headed by the International Golden Demon Awards and each month in White Dwarf magazine there are feature articles on all aspects of collecting, converting and painting miniatures. ‘Today, with Citadel Miniatures, we have the most amazing range of fantasy models imaginable and with them, an army of highly talented individuals painting Citadel Miniatures to staggering standards. This booklet has been designed mainly for those of you who are new to the miniature painting hobby. To all of you, we'd like to say ‘welcome aboard’. For you more experienced painters, ‘keep up the good work’ we hope to see you soon at the next Golden Demon Awards. Best ae.eect or Welcome to the Citadel Miniatures Painting Guide. This booklethas been designed to show you exactly how to go about preparing, assembling and painting Citadel miniatures. It tells you about the equipment and tools you will need, and the best kind of paints and brushes to use. Most of all, it gives you step by step instructions to all the basic techniques used in painting metal and plastic miniatures. It also includes lots of hints and tips from the Games Workshop miniature painters that w' enable you to create special detailed effects on your own models. After you've chosen and bought your models, take the time to read through this guide. Have agood look at the photos and before you start to think, “‘I’ll never be able to do that.” remember there was a time for all of the painters when they too had never painted a miniature. Like any other hobby, painting miniatures takes patience and practice in order to develop your own skills and style. You will also find it gives you tremendous enjoyment and satisfaction. ‘The material in this guide is organised to lead you clearly through the different stages of painting a miniature. From preparation and assembly through to adding final details and finishing off. Following through these stages should allow you to get everything done in exactly the right order. On each miniature you paint, there will be some or all of five different types of surface. These are: flesh, armour and metal, fabric, fur/hair/feathers and leather. ‘The photos and diagrams in this guide have been carefully chosen to illustrate how to paint each. of these different surfaces. You should therefore be able to see exactly how these will look on your own miniature, at each stage of your work. Painting high quality miniatures is both creative and fun, so take things slowly and relax. If you follow the instructions in this booklet you should soon be painting miniatures to the high standards shown in this guide and every month in the pages of White Dwarf magazine. We don’t guarantee that your miniatures will win all your battles for you, but the pleasure you get in painting them, and the sight of them on the battlefield, will certainly impress your opponents. Good luck. How the Guide errno) Traitor Marine Champion of Slaanesbet Senco! re BP CUS © Selecting paints. ‘Tools, Paints and Brushes Having decided that you want tohave ago at painting Citadel Miniatures, what are you going to need? Most obviously you ae going to need to choose some models. ‘Take a look through the blister packs in the store and select a few models that you rally like ‘You are about to transform the miniature from a metal or plastic casting into a living, breathing, character. If the miniature’ excites your {imagination you will get real fanand enjoyment out of your work ‘Tools and Adhesives ‘The basic tools you'll need are a sharp modelling knife or scalpeland. small file. Several companies produce good Iknives and different blades to fit them. Always use a straight- ‘edged short lade. Longblades fare more likely to snap and so should be avoided. Needle files are about 4-5" long, and come in a variety of cross-section shapes. The most useful for ‘modelling are the halfround, ‘tlangular and fat types. Both of these items should be available from your local hobby Sore. Other useful items like pliers, ahacksaw, and apin-vice (@ small hand held deill)can be added to your kit as your skill and interest develops ‘fp assemble your miniatures, and mount them on thei plastic ‘bases, you'll need a fast setting. two-part epoxy glue. When ‘working on large multi-part ‘odels two-part epoxy pucty Such 28 Milliput 8 used for filling in the gaps around the Joints, Fr plas kits, you wil require tube or bottle of ordinary polystyrene cement Forboth metal and lass, you may also find it helpful 1 keep 2 tube of superglue close at hand TOOLS, PAINTS AND BRUSHES ‘To begin, we describe the basic equipment for cleaning and preparing your models. We show you how to use your tools safely and talk about different types of modelling adhesives and filler. Finally we look at how to build up a good collection of paints. ‘lee backs andpilerscan te'added to your hi at required. Adhesives All of these adbesives bave ‘thetr uses in modelling. From left to right: Milliput (epoxy putty) - used for filling the ‘Baps on multi-part castings, ‘@ two part epoxy adbesive (glue and bardener) - for ‘assembly and fixing models to their bases, a tube of ‘polystyrene cement, atube of ‘superglue, and a bottle of ‘cement, for use Paints If you want to buy individual pots of paint, you should Include: black, white, gold, silver, flesh, red, green, biue and yellow in your basic colours, (ld-fashioned oil and enamet based colours are rarely used these days. Allgood painters use acrylics. Acrylic paints are based in water, but are By far the best way to start waterproof once dry. This collecting paints is to buy the ‘means that you can mix and Citadel Colour Paint Set blend your colours easily and featuring the full range of basic you can clean your brushes colours. Citadel also make the ‘with water. All Of the models Creature Paint Set, the Monster shown in this guide were Paint Setand the Space Marine painted with Citadel Colour Paint Set, which you can add acrylic paints to the initial range.GETTING STARTED Here we take a look at the importance of working with high quality paint brushes and explain how to choose and care for them. Finally we discuss the use of a mixing palette and how to set up your work area. Armed with this information, you are set up to start work on your models. Work Area Here you can see Games Worksbop mintature painter Mike McVey about to start work ‘on a new model. Notice bow Mike's work area ts clean and ‘dy with bis paints and brushes well organised and close at band. The table top bas been covered with a layer of paper to protect it from runs and ‘splashes. Try to set up your area ‘scloseas possible toawindow, {in order to get the benefit of working under natural tight. If {you plan to work n the evening, ‘an anglepoise lamp can bea great beip. Brushes You will also needo buy some brushes. Cheap, oldbrushes are fineforapplying undercoat and forafew other techniques. For colour and for detail work you'll nced two oF three good Gualty brushes Notonly docsa good brush give better result, but it is more pleasant to use. The best Brushes, such as. Citadel Brusbes, are made from high «quality sablehaie Any goodart Supplicrs should. stock a ‘Aselection of good quality brushes. Here is one of Mike's completed miniatures. This shows Notice bow tbe metal ferrules are the kind of wonderful detall and leline effects you Clean and the tips are drawn 10 a can acbleve. ‘fine point. selection of sable brushes. Citadel Brushes are available from Games Workshop stores, and better hobby shops. Citadel Brushes come in 2 ‘numberof sizes, from 000 (the finest) to 3 (the largest). Generally you should use fine brush (000 or 00) for detailed workand the bigger sizes (0 1 2 and 3)for applying base coats and large area colour work. Having bought some quality brushes, you should take care of them, Don'tuse yourbrush for ae cra OTs Peta eeca ay Seis) stirring paint. A toothpick is better and far cheaper! Don't dip your brush straight into the ppaint pot as you will ruin the tip. Ifthe paint gets under the ‘metal ferrule, it wil either leak out and discolour another paint, or dry outand unseat the bristles, Use an old white plate or plastic tray as a palete. With an old brush handle ot toothpick lift 2 small quantity of paint from the pot and place iton the palette. This way you ‘can thin and mix your colours before applying them to the ‘model with your brush After applying a particular colour, always swish the brush around in water and wipe it ‘with aise Never let paint dey on the brush or leave your brush tip downwards inthe jar When you have finished using the brush, wash it thoroughly Jinclean warm water with litle dishwashing liquid added. Store your brushes point upwards in ja. If individual hair stick out Of the tip, then tease them ‘carefully back to a point using. moistened finger or your lips Work Area Finally you will need to set out a work area. Any level surface do, but if you're going to ‘on the kitchen table make sure you cover it with some sheets of old newspaper. You shouldalso try to workas close as possible to a window, as ight gives the best illumination. This makes it easier to pick out the details on ‘your model. Natural light also brings out the true colours in the pigments in your paints. ‘You'll need container of clean ‘water to rinse out your brushes and some rags or tgsus to wipe them. A tidy well-organised ‘work area will help you to focus your attention on your model ‘Best ofall isa permanently set ‘up painting area. Here you can. keep all of your tools, paints, and brushes and you can leave ‘your models to dry. The area should be clean and dust free.6 Boer) ay Cr] PO een Ce Bers Preparing your model Before you start to paint your ‘model, there are a few simple things you must do. The key to producing a finely painted miniature is in good pre- paration, Whether you are painting 2 single model for a ‘competition, or building up an army for 2 game, the quality of, your final miniature will ‘depend oa large extent upon the quality ofthe work you do now. Read through this section ‘with one or two new miniatures in front of you. Look at the photos and examine the tastings 28 you read. When you have finished, assemble your ‘miniature and fix it to its base Metal Miniatures The first step is to clean the model, Because metal ‘miniatures are cast ina two-part rubber mould, the casting ‘process sometimes leaves flash ‘on parts ofthe miniature. Fash isathin layer of metal that may form film around parts of the model; for example, between the inside of the arm and the body. Where the rwo halves of SEES ee rr PREPARING YOUR MODEL Here we take you through the basic steps involved in preparing a model for painting. We describe how to use a modelling knife and file and the best ways to assemble metal and plastic miniatures. We also look at different types of glue and filler, and explain how to fix models to their bases. ‘Carefully lean your model by cutting away any ‘metal flash with a sharp knife Always remember 10 cut away from your fingers. Here ts another of Mike's finished models. "Use a needle file to remove any mould lines prior This kind of finisb can only be achieved loencercan se meat with thorough and careful preparation. themouldjoin,theysometimes When you glue your models, plastic shield and base lewveathinrib ofmetalaround make sure that you use propet_ Depending on the model, the the model. This s known as 2 polystyrene cement-_don'tuse base may have a pre-cut slot 10 mould line, Mould lines and woodor rubber cement or you accept the miniatures base wb. fash shouldboth be cleanedoff willend up ina real mess. Tube Make sure thatthe metal tab on theminiatuce withasharp knife Cements canbe atherthickand the model's fet fits neatly into ora file. Stringy and.are probably notthe the slot. If it's too big, then ‘islet ofgluestouse onmodels either cut the base or file the ‘ofthis se. Much beterisliquid tb, ‘5 cement, which is applied with asics brush,andisavallableinsmall Cavalry bases are provided with ‘The components of plastic bottles fromhobby shops.This five uncut slots which you can models are normally atached works by melting the surface of cut outas required, Some large toaplastic frame calledasprue. the plastic and welding the its creatures are supplied with ‘Thervatiousparts ofthe model together. I's strong, easy to square bases with sixteen uncut should be removed from the apply and economical, holes underneath. These sprue with a sharp scalpel or models have pegs instead of small cuter. Don't try to twist Whichever glue you use small 42h Use a modeling knife to cut them off with your fingers as mounts should be applied ‘© Gut one or two of the holes as you mill almost certainly end te surface of both partsto be required and glue the pegs into Up breaking the more delicate J0ined. Press the pieces firmly he base pleces. After they have been together and then leave the Femoved, clean the parts with del 0 dry. Plastic models can be glued to a file or modelling knife to their bases with polystyrene remove any mould lines orbits . cement, Metal ‘miniatures Of sprue. Before you glue your shouldbe fied usinga two-part models, it’s a good idea to Now that you've cleaned and epoxy resin glue. If the temporarily assemble them assembled your model, all that _ miniature has a shield you can. wwithbits of adhesive putty che remains is to mount it on its now attach it, although many Stuff you use for sticking base. Most Citadel single-piece painters prefer to finsh painting postersto walls) sothat youcan and some multi-plece models the miniature and then add the fry out some different poses, are supplied with a separate shield last of alUNDERCOATING YOUR MODEL Firstly we explain how to assemble large monsters and other multi-part castings. This is followed by details on undercoating your models, the purpose of the undercoat, different colours of undercoat and how spray-paint can speed up this process. (© When they are dry, turn them '@ Touch up any small unpainted details with a brush. Covering up thejoinsontbis. Small pieces of putty were Lastly the putty was tail was achleved with the added around tbe joint and smoothed with an old damp lication of epoxy putty. worked into tbe. brush. Multi-part models ‘ofillinthe gaps, useatwo-pa. _Undercoating Maki cng orcemncle cpmay. Mer MEX eMC 43 yee nds should cow be hone and tlder ora large diectedon he packandapply YoU model should now be monster like a Dragon) are it to the casting with Your purpose of the undercoat is to Slightly moce complex than fingers Askren amoothikout Purpose ofthe undercoat i to Seiloverpicce models Having andleanoffanyflertha ges ot tbe etic mode with 2 moved fhe fash and mould onto the ret f the model . Ses earns in youstoldfincenmine Once dy the files lequic Want sA? dren tna Hieipicuato aalgeatcives” jough att cam beeertid icine mat comuthe he Understand’ how they” fit filed smooth. Most filles can THcemay show though the ot ee ee oe sancti mp Properly and the paint will weearyto Mlereryaparot © sil wet using’an old damp PCOPCHtY 42d the cat oo naka eect brush This allows you to aad "TMC S727 YOY auickly Jot Afes ir bas bore gc, sppropriae deal ooh asvcaes, Models are normally uader- Nouwillthen need to fil in orhulsotharitblendsin with coated with white or ty pant, Toc ofthe momaling gape: the cet of te toda daca eee pee Sante ae Rr tts aed ACs to use black, White undercoat Sprayiag Models gives a good clean surface and If you want t0 undercoat @ large | 2 brilliance to the overlying umber of models at the same time, | colours. Thin the paint slightly, it's often a good idea to spray them, | so that it doesn’t obscure the {© Place yourmodelsinasprayboot | details ofthe casting and work made from an old cardboard box. | _itevenly into the surface of your © Forpaint, useacan ofmattwhite | model using 2 large and ‘car primer. preferably old brush. ‘© Hold the can about a foot from the Ere If youare working on a number Strokes. of models at the same time, Der eae Ynonega | Sih asa whole regiment for Warhammer Fantasy Battle, rand ivetbomasecond coat | ‘henamuchbeter w2yt0 appl) amar oe undercoat is touse spray paint Use a car repair can of matt White primer and spray booth, Make sure that you can workin = vi tou carer - ‘still go outside. Place your ‘Many painters find it useful to a models into an old cardboard oe rei cs = crime mgmt ere le TO cc see hee ee Ap and spray with light smooth sn te pas meryemes mt ps aad ba te io Botan e ‘errant ae ecm nna a un eae carers Fe ier ee ine fob by ang hel eee light coats rather than drench the models and obscure the detail. Any difficult bits can be touched up later with a brush, en8 eri APPLYING THE BASE COAT Pr a a Choosing the right colours for your model and evoking to the right atmosphere with your paint scheme is one of the most interesting (and sometimes most difficult) aspects of the hobby, so we present some guidelines. Finally we look at begining to paint your model and applying the base coat. Base Coat ‘Demonstration Models ] Now that you have assembled IN = mn Mer road your mode, |e & } youareready obesinpainics | Gndercoated with white - eelerpse Saree a aint and bave then been a ae thoughetohow you want your | toen a base Coat tn tele = ae Model ated for fantas} basic eotours. Only apartof eee rack | each miniature bas been The Dwarf's face bas been —_ The beard bas been givenan Seeenanettirk os! Kt0 | coloured to belp you see given abase coat of tbinned all over base colour of Elf example: Orcs and Goblins tend ger Rania Brees. ‘Grey. {Ope dresoed tn dak earthy Stour tod ace mean 200 {geen ood Eves on the over Sis ae more elegant and rosin oues of re yellow Sta'browa, a8 befits thelr Sion! saroundings ‘When painting an individul character model, try to evoke the atmosphere and back ‘ground in its design, You can make a model look mean by painting a grim expression However, don't overdo it. You shouldn't need to cover the model with blood, severed | The armour on this knight The base coat for this Space The Elf cloak bas been given limbs and decapitated heads, | has been painted with Marine Terminator Armour —ttsbase coat colour of Goblin although sometimes thiscan be | a mixture of Chainmail ry 15 Blood Red. fan. To start with, limit the | and @baos Black paint. ; number of colours you use to three of four foreach model. If you use too many different Colour of very bright colours then the result will ook gaudy ‘and overwhelming. A model painted in neutral colours offset by one bright colour will be far more effective This Warlord Battle Titan bas been specially painted to ‘emphasize its enormous size and firepower. The flame ‘Patterns on the legs and carapace are particularly effectiveAPPLYING THE BASE COAT Here we examine the purpose of the base coat and the different kinds of surface on your model. We take a look at the different demonstration miniatures and deal with the use of the colour table. Lastly we introduce the concepts of shade and highlighting. eLetter [etc se [SS teens [setae nore —| etna wa Sel soeavee [ars meet ter i oe Es sete er «ie ed ee ee ce wos Teme i mec uLeess 3 Sa ree pr een « a ee ee ee Se ccs [emer | came msc om Soe eee [eee eames mre oer ron sete [ea oan ar temo oe [see na ee wi Se Stee [eo [keene er a panos [tenia [eer aan a a TT ‘er [ onesie [er ‘The alm of the base coat is to cover each of the main areas on your model with a neat even Coat of your chosen colour. "These areas will iybeall ‘ofthe visible skin on the model together with the main areas of fabric, metal and armous, hair and fur, ec “The type of surface will often Take another lookat the photos {guide your choice of colour For on the opposite page. We've Example: Human and Dwarf selected five models to ‘kin snormally flesh-coloured demonstrate the different stages ‘orpalebrown, However always and techniques of painting Femember that these arefantasy miniatures, The models chosen. ‘models, Great fun canbe hadby are: the skin texture and face of Tetting both your imagination a Dwarf, the beard of a Dwarf, and your paintbrush roam free. the shoulder armour of a yy Serer rence ris Ser ren sue Knight, the leg of a Space Marine in Terminator Armour and the cloak of an Elf {As you follow these examples through the guide, you will be able t0 see how each type of surface should look during the different stages of painting, Some or all of these different textures willbe present on your ‘own miniature Youshould now ‘mix your paint and start work, Apply the coats of paint to the largest areas first. Allow the ‘brush to follow the shape of the ‘casting and don’t scrub. In this ‘way you will be able to apply aan even coat of paint to the ‘surface of the model and keep your brushes in good shape, Don’t worry about the small areas of detail t this stage. Just ‘concentrate on making a neat Job of the major features. A {00d tp is to work on several ‘models at the same time. This allows the paint to dry on one area before you move onto the ‘next. Once you have completed allof yourbasic colours put the ‘models aside to dry thoroughly. Shade and Highlight Next we look at shading and highlighting your miniature, ‘The table on the left gives a Buide to the way in which basic colour, shade and highlight ‘work together to create depth and detail on your finished ‘models. Refer to this table a8 ‘you read the ext and look at the ‘examples, and use it asa guide when you begin to paint your ‘own miniatures.Aton (OOS ARs Now that you've finished the basic areas, you are ready to develop the depth and «detail of your model by shading. ‘Take a look across the room at someone's clothing, or place a ‘sweater over the back ofa chair. Notice how the colours darken and shade into the folds of the material. What you are now {going to do is use a couple of Simple techniques to simulate this effect on the skin, clothing, and other surfaces of your ‘model. The most effective way of representing shadows on the contours of a miniature is with the use of a colour wash. A-colour wash consists of a diluted mix of a deeper shade ‘of the bate colour. For example, brown rather than ight brown, ‘or grey rather than white. When, you thin the paint you should alm fora consistency similar to ‘milk. Ths will allow the colour to flow into the creases and crevices of the model. A wash should not be so thick that the base colour is completely masked, nor should it be so ‘watery that it dries in distinct puddles. Once the colour has been thinned, apply it evenly lover the base area ofthe model ‘with a clean moist brush. You will see immediately how it runs into the contours to create the illusion of shadow. If you've not used this technique before, have a go.on an old model before starting on your masterpiece. Whenever possible, use 2 deeper shade ofthe base colour {or your washes. This is much beter than simply adding black to your original shade. Black does workup toa point, but the effect Is to darken the tone, ‘whereas you really want to deepen it - you want a good strong blue overamid-blue, not a dirty blue-grey. Yellow is particularly prone to dis- SHADING YOUR MODEL SS EE eee The next stage is to simulate shadows on your miniature. We explain how to mix a colour wash, and how colour washes are ideal for this purpose. We then give an introduction to advanced techniques and describe the use of multiple washes to give more tone and depth. Demonstration Models | Te aang ona of tee | MIR Imes ba ben ache = the use of a colour wash or Fsih Outi fit read tows | $e ‘the text tomake sure that you ‘3 understand these techniques = = Gand then goabeadandapply A tbin line of brown inkbas The Elf Greybase coat on the them to your own minature been added to the edge of the beard, bas been given a face, under the eyes, and colour wash of thinned black ‘around the nose and ip. paint. The armour bas now been The leghasbeen shaded with Tbe Cloak bas been shaded washed with thin Chaos a mix of Blood Red, Bestial with a wath of Woodland Black and Bestial Brown Brown and red ink Green mixed with green ink. int. x. Aas The robe on tbis Chaos Tbe robe was then washed The use of two basic colours Sorcerer was given a base with thinned biue ink. (on this Chaos Warrior give a ‘coat of Enchanted Blue colouration when black is professional techniques that fe, Fortis reason, when ou can begin to develop at Toguecenseowtscc, Jou contitnce os town washes ate ely Aa easy method i to apply beter ce wie wil ok Nery cold shaded by Black” ultplewasesto yourmodel ‘grey alone. Unless you want this Sift with a very light base coat speyalone les you ant ihleo4somiy bud the colour trou ook more mataie™” BY adding increasingly darker Wares Make sre that you In addon tthe base wath, Sow each wa ody before there are also 4 number of adding the next shade11 ecules Glazes. Here we look at some advanced techniques: how to shade models with inks and how you can use ink glazes to create greater texture and depth on your model. We then discuss the use of inks on armour, creating shadows by outlining and blending colour to create shadows and highlights. Outlining. entree Addition of blues or browns to Outlining the black can give various hues ‘Black ining basbeen usedon | ‘©thearmoue Very thinbrown ‘this weapon t0 create the | OF Orange gazes sult weathered deep shadows and bigh | 9 Fusty armour perfectly. ‘contrasts. Ths technique is ‘g00d one to use when you | Ovttning want the piece you are | Another finishing technique is shading to standout fromthe | outlining. To do this you will ‘rest of the model ‘nced your finest brush, brought toagood point with only lithe paint on its tip. Outline all the areas where one part of the ‘model joins another, such asthe joint between sleeve andhand, ‘where the tunic joins the breeches, the edges of belts oF Where the helmet orhairmeets the face Depending upon the colours of the areas being outlined, dark. ‘sey or dark brown loc re the toot effective If an area is eepecially dark, or It the contrast especllly sharp, Good shading and bighlighting | Sach a cloth and met bisck brings out the textareonteisAmbull | ‘ray be used Mix te sequied ubicb bas been painted primarily | Colour wit water uni you get ‘im only one colour. The base colour a consistency that flows easily 35 er om ee ane mate but still gives a good opaque aaper ft Sects Ts siper-sind ablatare Besta Brownand Orange | tine Quning eases ees ‘@ sharp colour contrast between tts pale skin and the ink. Orange/orown bighlights were | and and a degree of patience. ‘lark laiber and armour to create fs impact. ten added. Blending Take diy Think with waterto of dept an blancs you Tefal cinq sdog Create the depth of shading can't get with acrylics alone. 4 model is lending. Blend The Citadel Bxpert Set of inks "ced andbrush conto the The more glazes of ink you isabardtechnique to develop, allows youto workbeyondthe — TS4¢1 Be carefulnot tousetoo apply, the deeper the richness. butt docs ereate amuch softer range of acrylics: The tN Tech inkconthebrushoriemay For instance i you glaze a red and subter looking miniature parent shade of colour that can f64 into other areas of the tunic (Citadel Colour Blood It will however require an be added with an ink both .C4e1 that have already been Red) with yellow ink you will apprentice period during which enriches existing colours and Patneed, tend up with a warmer, richer, you will probably produce cee ume rerwsn 19k washes are particularly Prighter colour father muddy-looking results titective when applied t0 ce, won occertion tay ek aminieceunog ink, Be beee (eed emcees al, ee ere seme hades. age laid leo the ‘oor emue ee be comely hashal je the deste effect ah fur fabricetc. Theink’s fluidity jayer of glaze mustbe drybefore _ J°Pfessions and thinned at the Mowe rorcachinwtnefogs “7ejotghacmutbe deybefowe Seadow's. cage. into. the tadrcremer of tie model [oubrbatbenert@oe AW Aiding area, A Clean creating a realistically smooth applied to a model that has “ampbrushis essential for this Sfaaing cect when aca, 1pBUed 0 2 model that Bas epesgue Light shades ar put Shaded andtendstounify these 000 the model as highlighs Usinganink washoverthetase Shaded and a a colour is a good way to paint _*echniqs ‘surrounding colour. This is a whole units very quickly and 4 glaze added directly to bare very precise way to paint a ‘still get good-looking models. metal is an effective way of model. The areas you are Selling wie niaere: mises, (eegesee pies coatee mi (usually thinned with water)is gradations of tone are subtle. A sits slayer fink that good Aoler Thisbrigs ut Once natcred thoogh, the Completely covers the base the depth ofthe plat of mal rents cannot be mated by Colowe Thispovideszrchness with very litle effort. The any ther technique12 pera athe arses Highlighting Highlighting is really the opposite of shading, Instead of trying to simulate areas of dark and shadow, highlights mimic the effect of ight falling on the raised areas ofthe model. For this technique you will require 2 couple of cheap or old brushes. This is because deybrushing (the favorite highlighting method) quickly ruins good ones ‘To deybrush a highlight, use your brush t0 mix a lighter Shade of the original base colour. Then with an old cloth or tissue, wipe most of the pigment from the brush. Don't ‘worry if the brush looks clean. ‘The faintest traces of paint will still transfer to the model. Carefully draw the brush across the area you are highlighting, ‘working across the lines of the sculpture. As you do this, some ofthe pigment will liftoff the bristles and onto the raised areas of detail and well-defined ‘edges of your model. This Immediately creates a highlight. ‘The technique should then be repeated, using a still lighter shade of Colour, and with even less pressure on the brush stroke. Your model should now begin to take on a 3-D effect. Continue to highlight the different base coats until this, stage is complete. As wieh shading, exaggerated effects sive the best results, but don't be afraid to stop when you are happy with the way it looks CREATING THE HIGHLIGHTS Here we explain how to highlight the raised surfaces of your model. We introduce drybrushing and explain why you should always use old or cheap brushes. We also demonstrate a method of improving your drybrushing technique and show you how to mix and drybrush multiple highlights. ‘Demonstration Models The bighlights on the a miniatures were all created ‘. ‘by drybrusbing over the base oat with a lighter shade of “ee the base colour The n Terminator Armour on the = Space Marine's leg was also The dwarf's face bas been The beard bas been dry- ‘gently blended 10 create the bighlighted using Bronzed brushed with Elf Grey mised effect of light striking a Flesh mixed with white with white to create the curved surface. bightighes. ‘The highlights were blended The bighlights on the leg were The cloak was bighlighted ‘first with Chainmail and created with a mixture of first with Goblin Green and ‘then witb silver mixed with Blood Red, Hobgoblin then with Goblin Green white. Orange and white ‘mixed with Bilious Green, model in black and then follow tbrough tbe inate . ee eee : Epa ine sine Maite Sees ae Dip an old or cheap brush Wipe the tip with a clean Aigeren degre f bight. ‘irecty into te patntpotin paper towel OF Onder to saturce the ip." _Pomove ie wet at oe rae rene very little paint Draw the brush across the ‘appears to be loft. on the lines of sculpture on the the brus, the bigblights bristles of the brush, miniature. becomeADDING FINE DETAIL In this section we show you how to paint in the final details and how to use a standard base coat, wash and highlights for detail work. We then look at how to finish the face with eyes, lips, tusks and teeth. Finally we look at creating special details such as; stripes, checks and patterns. 13 Serer Cte eects poe Demonstration Models As tbe final stage, detals were a. ‘added 10 ail of the models x ‘Attnough ese were diferent ae {in each case, the same baste ee (proceedures were followed as x for tee reso he moet. Tye ce ae deale by The final Dgblgts were See ir serait, appiving atbin wash of Red picked out on the beard in sre are at oe enim Gore to tbe lips, cheeks and pure white erry completed wodk.” lower part of the bead. ‘The final touch 10 the armour The leg armour was compl- The red ine on the cloak was twas 0 carefully pick out the ted by adding several thin first painted with thinned rivets wasbes of red ink. ‘wbite paint and then over Painted in red. somewhat like a line of black ‘eyeliner. Ifyou allow this line to drop slightly onto the eye self, you will create the impression of an eye-lid and Prevent the model from appearing to stare. Lips are added in the desired colour, normally a mix of rediyellowihite for humanoid creatures. A dark red-brown line will separate the lips, or dark crimson in the case of ‘open mouths. Tusks and teeth should then be carefully painted in . This way, if you accidentally get white paint ‘onto the lips you can easily paint over the mistake. Stripes, checks and other patterns should be painted with ‘your finest brush and with the ‘paint thinned so that it will ow smoothly and easily. When painting stripes, plan ahead so that you paint the lighter colour first and the darker one overt. If you do need to paint alight stripe over a dark background, itisbest to first paint the stripe in white undercoat and then add the colour on top. When painting checkered patterns, don't try to paint in each one of the individual ‘squares. Pant in a set of stripes and then a second set at right angles to these to create a grid, ‘Youcan now fii the alternate squares with your chosen colours The face and tunic on this Shield designs can add a Scout are examples of well the elmet cet was created great deal tthe impact finished detail by careful drybrusbing. ouches, plumes, trappings, Faces sould receive ther base Detail Weapons ete. "The same Coat, wash and highlights Techniques are “sed for during the normal painting ‘leulling tare used for the routine. In addition, extes larger areas but you will have highlights shouldbe applied to adding the final touches of (Q cven more careful. Not the nose and lack wash tthe igerel only are the areas smaller and eye sockets. To detail the eyes, ‘When you add deal oa well more fiddly but youristavld paint them in with white painted miniature it finaly spoiling the work you've carefully "following the Exmesalve Thearesyounced already completed. Be espee- moulding Whenthishas deed, to work on will vary foreach —fally Careful-not to splash addasmal dot of black forthe tmodelyoupain, burgenclly surrounding areas with your — pupil Define the topo the eye incude belt cimets hae fect washes with a line of black paiat, ‘You have now reached the last stage of painting your model, fer eam at r r Pe acon een ea ener ees