Professional Documents
Culture Documents
By Matt Foss
1
On April 1, 1896 a United States Life-Saving Station became operational on
Plum Island, Wisconsin.1 For ninety-four years, the station, under the U.S. Life-Saving Service
and later the U.S. Coast Guard, overlooked the often treacherous waters connecting Lake
Michigan with the bay of Green Bay. The Porte des Morts Passage or “Death‟s Door” as it is
known is a popular waterway which vessels, both large and small, have frequented with high
Since Death‟s Door became a popular waterway, there has been an undeterminable
number of shipwrecks and near tragedies surrounding the passage. The winds in the area are
notorious for their power and unpredictability and the currents are strong near the rocky shoals
which extend from nearby shores. The crews of this U.S. Life-Saving Service Station and U.S.
Coast Guard Station spent an ample amount of time rescuing vessels, cargo, and passengers from
In 1990, when the U.S. Coast Guard decided to abandon the station on Plum Island and
create a new one on nearby Washington Island, Wisconsin, Plum Island fell under the
jurisdiction of the Bureau of Land Management which decided in 2007 that the island would be
controlled by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Beginning in 1990 and continuing with the
decision by the Bureau of Land Management seventeen years later, the federal government
established a paradigm, designating Plum Island as a wildlife preserve for migratory birds.
Looking at Plum Island now, from either Washington Island or the Door County Peninsula, it is
difficult to imagine it was ever the location of a full-time U.S. Life-Saving Station. The buildings
which comprised the station look run-down and in need of repairs with outdated roofing, broken
1
Records of the United States Coast Guard, Record Group 26, Box 480, National Archives and Records
Administration, Chicago, Illinois.
2
It is hard to picture Plum Island as it once was for older generations, and it is almost
impossible to imagine anything important once existed on the island for younger generations.
While envisioning the island as an integral part of the region‟s history is tough, the Plum Island
Life-Saving Station was exactly that. Day after day, the crew of this station risked their lives to
save vessels and people from peril around Death‟s Door. Because of the Plum Island Life-Saving
Station‟s role for almost a century, and its current condition of necessitating repairs, it too
deserves to be rescued.
The written history of Plum Island and its life-saving station and lighthouse stations is not
vast. In fact, the most comprehensive work regarding the island‟s history is a National Register
of Historic Places Nomination for Plum Island, written by Sarah Zaske. The nomination gives a
brief history of both the life-saving station and lighthouse stations, and focuses predominantly on
the architectural significance and regional importance of the island, as a good National Register
Plum Island does have a chapter dedicated to its lighthouse stations in Steve Karges‟
well researched Keepers of the Lights: Lighthouse Keepers and Their Families, Door County,
influential Wreck Ashore: The United States Life-Saving Service on the Great Lakes, but other
than that Plum Island has not been the subject of any historical monographs or scholarly articles
known to the author. This makes initial research difficult, but provides opportunity for this work
3
Another forgotten subject in historical monographs and articles is the United States Life-
Saving Service. While an important government agency for over forty years, there are not many
resources detailing the impact the U.S. Life-Saving Service had on maritime traffic in the United
States. The aforementioned Wreck Ashore serves as my main source for information regarding
the Life-Saving Service. Another work, Life on a Lonely Shore, by Edward Canfield and Thomas
Allan, is an important study of the Vermillion Point Life-Saving Station, providing historical
While scholarship regarding the U.S. Life-Saving Service is lacking, there are plenty of
monographs and articles which explain the history of lighthouses in the United States. While the
lighthouse stations on Plum Island are not the focus of this work, these resources expand my
knowledge of maritime history and the history of lighthouses in the area surrounding Plum
Island, providing valuable historical context for the entire history of the island.
The federal government began its interest in Plum Island in 1837, when the U.S. Naval
Board sent a naval officer to northeast Wisconsin to determine the need for lighthouses. While
there was the Pottawatomie Light on nearby Rock Island, the officer determined the Porte des
Morts Passage, which was becoming increasingly popular with maritime traffic and whose
reputation created the nickname “Death‟s Door,” should also have a lighthouse.2
The United States Congress finally agreed with the Naval Board in 1848, when they
appropriated $3,500 for the construction of a lighthouse on Plum Island. After President James
K. Polk reserved the island from public domain, construction began on what would be known as
2
Steve Karges, Keepers of the Lights: Lighthouse Keepers & Their Families, Door County, Wisconsin-1837-1939
(Ellison Bay, Wisconsin: Wm Caxton Ltd, 2000), 52-53.
4
the first Porte des Morts light.3 This light fit into an important historical trend. There were only
fifty-nine lighthouses under federal government control in 1820, and by 1850 there were 297.4
The first Porte des Morts light represented one of those 238 lights.
However, the lighthouse lasted only ten years when it was determined the light was too
far west to mark the Porte des Morts Passage for mariners.5 The Lighthouse Board, the
government agency in charge of federally operated lights, decided a lighthouse suited nearby
Porte des Morts Island (known as Pilot Island today) better than Plum Island. While the second
Porte des Morts Light, currently known as Pilot Island Light was under construction, the
Lighthouse Board decided to abandon the lighthouse on Plum Island and transfer the crew to the
new light.6 Although the government abandoned the island, it remained reserved from public
domain, meaning it was unavailable for sale to the public, showing the government‟s foresight
It would not be until the early 1890s when Plum Island would again become prominent in
maritime issues around Death‟s Door. In 1890, 1891, and 1892 the U.S. Lighthouse Board
petitioned Congress for $21,000, the equivalent of over $495,000 in today‟s economy, to build
range lights and a fog signal on the southwest side of Plum Island.7 The request likely originated
First, the number of shipwrecks in the Porte des Morts Passage increased since the first
lighthouse was left in ruins and the Lighthouse Board saw the need for a light to protect the
vessels traveling through. Second, as Great Lakes merchant vessels switched from sail to steam
3
Ibid.
4
George Weiss, The Lighthouse Service: Its History, Activities, and Organization (Baltimore, Maryland: Johns
Hopkins University Press, 1926), 19.
5
Sarah Zaske, National Register of Historic Places Nomination for Plum Island Life-Saving Station and Light,
Section 8, Page 2, 2009.
6
Ibid.
7
Karges, 58. Also, http://www.westegg.com/inflation/infl.cgi (accessed on 3/9/2010).
5
in the 1890s, ownership also changed. While merchant vessels using sails typically were
privately owned, steam powered vessels were usually owned and operated by large shipping
companies. In order to protect their ships, employees, and cargo, Great Lakes shipping
companies undoubtedly used political influence to encourage the Lighthouse Board to suggest
This was not uncommon during the early 1890s, as the Lighthouse Board suggested and
received appropriations for improvements to many light stations in Door County. Pottawatomie
light on Rock Island and the lights at Eagle Bluff, Chambers Island, Sherwood Point, Sturgeon
Bay Canal, and Cana Island all experienced renovations during this time. While Congress tabled
the Lighthouse Board‟s proposal all three years, the money was finally appropriated in 1895 to
build range light towers, a keeper‟s dwelling, fog signal house, boathouse, oil house, landings,
and outbuildings.8 The next year, Congress also appropriated funds for a U.S. Life-Saving
The origin of the U.S. Life-Saving Service is found in the history of the United States
Treasury Department. During the nineteenth century, the Treasury Department was the
government agency which oversaw shipping in the United States. Included in the Treasury
Department were the U.S. Lighthouse Service, U.S. Steamboat Inspections Service, U.S.
volunteers, known as surfmen, making themselves available for rescues of vessels and people in
8
Karges, 58.
9
Edward J. Canfield, D.O. and Thomas A. Allan, Ph.D., Life on a Lonely Shore: A History of the Vermillion Point
Life-Saving Station (Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan: Lake Superior State University Press, 1991), 3.
6
distress at sea. Throughout the 1800s, Congress appropriated funds to the Revenue-Marine for
life-saving stations and equipment, mostly along the east coast, but it would not be until 1871
when the U.S. Life-Saving Service would be created and begin their legacy on the coasts and
Great Lakes.
The winter of 1870-1871 proved to be brutal, especially on the Great Lakes with a total
of 1,167 disasters and 214 lives lost.10 Inspired by the tragedies, Congress authorized the
Secretary of the Treasury, George S. Boutwell, to “employ crews of experienced surfmen at such
stations and for such periods as he might deem necessary and proper.”11 Volunteer life-savers
were a thing of the past, and the United States Life-Saving Service became an agency under the
Revenue-Marine and later a separate entity under the U.S. Treasury Department in 1878.12
By 1896, the U.S. Life-Saving Service agreed Plum Island needed a life-saving station.
Increased marine traffic and dissatisfaction with only one light and one fog signal on nearby
Pilot Island influenced Congress to appropriate funds for the aforementioned range lights and
life-saving station. Finished in 1896 on the northwest side of the island, the 59‟ x 41‟ one-and-
including a two-bay boat room and a four story lookout tower, which the original Plum Island
station had. The “Duluth type” or “Duluth style” was a design of architect George Tolman. This
10
Frederick Stonehouse, Wreck Ashore: The United States Life Saving Service on the Great Lakes (Duluth,
Minnesota: Lake Superior Port Cities, 1994), 13.
11
Ibid.
12
Stonehouse, 15.
13
Zaske, Section 7, Page 2.
7
style was the popular design for life-saving station construction between the mid-1890s and the
early 1900s. In fact, fifteen were constructed on the Great Lakes alone between 1894 and 1904.14
The Plum Island station also included a keeper‟s room, for the captain of the station, a
kitchen, an office, a mess hall, sleeping quarters for the surfmen, and storage for the numerous
pieces of equipment assigned to each life-saving station.15 Also part of the station in 1896 was an
outbuilding, a storage facility for coal, wood, and paint, and an unimproved roadway between the
station and the range lights on the southwest side of the island.16 To become operational, what
The District Superintendent of the Eleventh District of the U.S. Life-Saving Service
appointed a man named Ingar Olsen to be the first keeper of the Plum Island Life-Saving Station.
Olsen, a native Norwegian, spent the prior six years to his appointment as a surfmen at the
Milwaukee Life-Saving Station. Olsen acquired an outstanding service record in Milwaukee, and
even earned a Gold Lifesaving Medal in 1893 for his efforts in a rescue.17
Typically, appointees to the position of keeper at U.S. Life-Saving stations were under
the age of fifty-five, had good service records, and were physically capable of performing all the
duties required in a possible rescue, plus be willing to live at the station year-round.
Additionally, the keeper of the station was held responsible for all the surfmen, equipment, and
14
Stonehouse, 52.
15
Zaske, Section 7, Pages 3-6.
16
Zaske, Section 7, Pages 7-9.
17
Zaske, Section 8, Page 8. The U.S. Life-Saving Service was separated into districts, the eleventh district being the
one with Plum Island and other Lake Michigan life-saving stations.
8
the station‟s boats. The keeper‟s position also required writing in two detailed logs, one to record
daily activities at the station, and one for reporting the station‟s responses to shipwrecks.18
A letter to Ingar Olsen from the District Superintendent says as much: “In view of your
good record since you have entered the Life-Saving Service, I have determined to nominate you
as keeper of the new Life-Saving Station of „Plum Island,‟ Wisconsin, providing you are willing
to serve.”19 The Superintendent also provided a caveat: “The station will not be fully manned
before midsummer, and do not engage, or promise people (employment) until later.”20 Even after
knowing he would be by himself for a large percentage of the first year, and that he had to live
on nearby Washington Island until the station was fit out, Ingar Olsen signed his appointment
papers, agreeing to a salary of $900 per year as keeper of the Plum Island Life-Saving Station.21
The Superintendent was not lying when he told Olsen the station would be undermanned.
While the station received two additional crew members in early April of 1896, there was very
little Olsen and two surfmen could do to assist any distressed vessels in the area. The daily logs
of the station show Olsen and crew clearing a lot of land, hauling stone, and building a small
pier. When Olsen and his two crew members did report to a wrecked vessel, they used either a
skiff or a sailboat to attend to the vessel, sometimes being gone for hours, without providing
What could they do? With only three men, there were not enough crew members for the
station to have a constant patrol or lookout, they could not operate the larger oar-powered
surfboat or lifeboat, and were not able to set up some of the most useful U.S. Life-Saving
18
Stonehouse, 29-30.
19
Personal Papers of Joseph F. Sladky, private collection, Livermore, California.
20
Ibid.
21
Ibid.
22
Records of the United States Coast Guard, Record Group 26, Box 480, National Archives and Records
Administration, Chicago, Illinois.
9
Service‟s equipment. They would have to wait until late summer when the actions of the Plum
Island crew resembled that of crews at other stations around the lakes.
There was a full crew (eight, including the keeper) by August. During this time, keeper
Olsen conducted daily drills including signal practice, resuscitation drills, and drills with the
station‟s boats. The crew was also able to go on the normal two-hour patrols, where two surfmen
would walk for an hour in separate directions, starting at the station and returning two hours
later. Further, the eight crew members could now attend to wrecked vessels in the manner the
U.S. Life-Saving Service intended, with full equipment, and the ability to use a larger boat for
rescue efforts.23
With a full crew for only a portion of the inaugural season, the importance of the station
in 1896 was that it was there. The Plum Island Life-Saving Station became a constant stopover
for mail carriers, vessels in distress, and others fearful of the voyage from Washington Island to
the mainland. Those who stopped at the station usually received hospitality from the keeper and
the keeper‟s wife, including the occasional warm meal, and a possible bed to sleep in for the
night. With only the full crew there part of the time, food supplies and empty beds were ample in
1896.
The most interesting case of Plum Island hospitality came when a passenger vessel had to
anchor off of the island, because a female passenger experienced such strong headaches she
needed to leave the ship. She arrived at the station and immediately received treatment. Keeper
Ingar Olsen‟s wife fixed a concoction of peppermint and tea for the woman, and her headaches
subsided. In the daily log of the station, keeper Olsen remarked she was very grateful. 24
23
Ibid.
24
Records of the United States Coast Guard, Record Group 26, Box 481, National Archives and Records
Administration, Chicago, Illinois.
10
When, at the beginning of the 1897 season the crew started with six, the station
resembled other stations around the Great Lakes.25 While work at the Plum Island station still
included cutting logs, building cribs and piers, picking rock, and hauling supplies in 1897, which
was not similar to the work found at many other stations on the lakes, the keeper and crew were
able to perform the daily and weekly standard duties of the U.S. Life-Saving Service. These
duties included drills regarding the crew‟s equipment, also known as beach apparatus,
resuscitation, the International Code of Signals, and the use of the station‟s Mackinaw boat.26
There were also enough crew members to properly clean the station once per week,
usually on Saturday, and clean and maintain the station‟s boats including the Mackinaw boat,
surf boat, ice boat, and supply boat. While all of these tasks were essential in preparing the crew
for rescues and keeping the station and its boats in proper working order, the most important
benefit of having a full crew at the beginning of the season was the ability for the Plum Island
station to conduct patrols, lookouts, and rescue missions from the beginning of the season until
The aforementioned two-hour patrols were only feasible with a full crew, the same with
lookout duty, where a member of the crew would keep a watch in the four-story lookout tower of
the station. Now with seven total men at the station beginning in April of 1897, when they saw or
heard about a vessel in distress, the life-savers of Plum Island could respond with a full crew in
their Mackinaw boat or surfboat and properly assist the vessel rather than just arrive on the scene
25
Records of the United States Coast Guard, Record Group 26, Box 480, National Archives and Records
Administration, Chicago, Illinois.
26
Ibid.
27
Ibid.
11
and assist in the salvage efforts. In May and June of 1897, the station‟s crew assisted two vessels
in need, and towed a scow to Washington Island after it had collided with a schooner in the fog.28
One aspect of the station‟s response to wrecked vessels that differed from other stations
on the lakes was the use of equipment. In the crew‟s rescue efforts, they rarely if ever employed
life-saving equipment like the Lyle gun, breeches buoy, or heaving stick in the early years. In the
Plum Island Station‟s wreck report logs, there are entries to record if the keeper or crew used
such equipment in a rescue, but Keeper Olsen repeatedly marked “no” to the question if such
equipment was used in a rescue.29 Only by 1899, does the heaving stick, an object used to
connect surfmen with the crew of a vessel become used, and equipment like the Lyle gun, a
mortar used to shoot a line out to a vessel in danger,30 or breeches buoy, a pair of canvas
breeches attached to a cork life ring, connected to four rope lanyards to a block or metal hook
rigged to a heavy line running between a vessel and the shore, become used sparingly.31
While equipment usage on Plum Island did not resemble other life-saving stations, the
daily process of drills, patrols, cleaning, and the occasional rescue mirrored other stations on the
Great Lakes. This remained the status quo until the early 1900s, when two technological
innovations changed the way the station‟s crew responded to wrecks, and the frequency of
wrecks themselves. The first major change to daily operations at the Plum Island Life-Saving
Station was the emergence of a telephone. In the summer of 1903, Congress appropriated funds
to lay a telephone cable from the Door County Peninsula to Plum Island and on to Washington
28
Records of the Washington Island Archives, Box 53, Washington Island, Wisconsin.
29
Ibid.
30
Stonehouse, 123-124. The 2 ½ inch in diameter mortar (24 ½ inches in length) was the Life-Saving Service
standard Lyle Gun. The line was attached to a fifteen inch, nineteen pound projectile, which was shot out of the
mortar towards the vessel. The Lyle Gun would be fired from shore and could reach a ship over 100 yards away.
31
Stonehouse, 113.
12
Island.32 By November of 1903, the crew and keeper, Frank E. Johnson, were not only preparing
the station for winter but also helping a telephone linesman prepare telephone poles, cut through
the woods for the lines, and transporting the linesman from the mainland to the two islands.33
While these actions took up a large portion of the crew‟s time, this was not the
importance of the telephone. Beginning in the summer of 1904, the Plum Island Life-Saving
connection, wrecks were reported either by surfmen on patrol or lookout, distress signals from
In fact, one wreck in September of 1902 involved a stranded vessel three miles east of
Rock Island, approximately eleven miles to the northeast of Plum Island. A surfmen on liberty
on Washington Island heard about the vessel from the local Richter Brothers fishermen who
were fishing off of Rock Island, and reported it when he returned to the station later in the day.34
Clearly, there was a significant period of time between when the vessel became endangered and
the water they could call the station. In fact, many of the wrecks reported during the first decade
Detroit Harbor where many merchant vessels, personal watercraft and commercial fisherman
frequented. Light keepers at nearby Pilot Island and Rock Island, who also had good vantage
points for shipwrecks, were also frequent callers to the Plum Island station.
32
Hannes M. Andersen, Washington Island: A Maritime History Through the Years, Volume II (Washington Island,
Wisconsin: published by the author, 2009), 101.
33
Records of the United States Coast Guard, Record Group 26, Box 482, National Archives and Records
Administration, Chicago, Illinois.
34
Records of the Washington Island Archives, Box 53, Washington Island, Wisconsin.
13
Also in the decade, the emergence of the gasoline engine had a significant impact on the
type of “wrecked” vessels and the fashion in which the station responded to them. After 1903-
1904, there were more personal watercrafts with gasoline engines appearing in the wreck report
logs of the station, including yachts and other pleasure crafts, and slowly the cargo vessels so
prevalent around Washington, Detroit and Plum Islands in the 1890s, decreased. The type of
“wreck” also changed due to the switch to gasoline engines. As time went on, the wreck report
logs show fewer wrecks where the vessel became “stranded,” or had “dragged anchor.”
Increasingly popular reasons for wrecks became “disabled machinery,” “no gasoline,” or
“springing leaks.”35
The most important aspect of the emergence of the gasoline engine was for the benefit of
the Plum Island Life-Saving Station‟s rescue efforts. Now, instead of sails or oars, gasoline
engines could power the station‟s surfboat, lifeboat, and supply boat, vastly reducing the time
between leaving the station and their destination. Although the gasoline engines in the first
decade of the twentieth century were not as efficient as they are today, it was an improvement
In fact, prior to the use of the telephone and gasoline engine, there were rumors the
government wanted to build another life-saving station just for Washington Island. The local
newspaper, The Door County Advocate reported in the summer of 1901: “There is talk of a Life
Saving Station in this neighborhood (Washington Harbor on the northern end of Washington
Island). A good many wrecks occur in bad weather. There are no facilities for reporting disaster
by wire, so reporting is slow and uncertain.”36 After improved communication and transportation
for the Plum Island Life-Saving Station, such ideas were set aside.
35
Records of the Washington Island Archives, Box 53, Washington Island, Wisconsin.
36
Andersen, 92.
14
An example of the positive impact of both the telephone and gasoline engine came in
June of 1910. After notified that the steamer Chas. A. Eddy was on a reef around Poverty Island,
a small island over twenty miles to the northeast of Plum Island, the crew traveled to the site and
stayed with the vessel for six days. They worked to get the vessel afloat, and carried messages
and supplies from the steamer to Escanaba, Michigan.37 Rescues such as this one were
The legacy of the Plum Island Life-Saving Station centers on the station and its crews‟
response to “wrecked” vessels. Over the years, there were several “wrecks” which either were
remembered for their importance, or were so fascinating they should be remembered simply
because of the details surrounding the wreck. One such wreck happened in September 1904,
when a yacht from Green Bay sprang a leak in Death‟s Door. The people on the yacht manned
the pumps but could not reduce the volume of water rushing in. Luckily for the yacht and
passengers, a boat with keeper Frank Johnson and surfman Anton Jessen from the Plum Island
Life-Saving Station was nearby. The two men boarded the yacht and after understanding the
problem, found some sawdust and forced it under the flooring of the yacht, suppressing the leak
so the pumps could finally make headway reducing the amount of water in the vessel. The
condition of the yacht maintained to a point where they ran it ashore to fix the leak and remove
In July of 1905, the life-saving crew showed their versatility in a rescue situation when
the steamer George Presley caught fire and wrecked in West Harbor on Washington Island,
37
Andersen, 139.
38
Andersen, 104.
15
causing the dock in West Harbor to ignite in flames. Once the crew arrived on the scene, they
fought the fire for over three hours before finally realizing the steamer was a total loss.39 While
not trained at fighting fire, the crew bravely attempted to curb the flames in order to save the ship
from destruction. The large rudder from the Presley resides in West Harbor to this day.
Almost four years later, fire was an issue in another wreck, this time near Ellison Bay on
the Door County Peninsula. In June of 1909, the Lilly Amiot, owned by John and Abraham
Jessen carried merchandise for the Gisalsons, Koyens, and Andersens of Washington Island.
Besides merchandise, the Lilly Amiot also hauled gasoline and dynamite as cargo. Predictably,
the vessel caught fire. After the cabin caught fire, the crew of the Amiot abandoned the ship and
let it drift off shore, where it eventually exploded some 400 feet away. The Plum Island crew
traveled all the way to the site and helped the men who abandoned the vessel, and also assisted in
The most famous rescue mission of the Plum Island Life-Saving Station, and perhaps the
most courageous, occurred in November of 1913, during the storm known as the “White
Hurricane.” Between November 7th and November 10th, nineteen ships were lost on the Great
Lakes, with another nineteen stranded because of the weather. At least 250 lives were lost in the
After several ships in distress sought refuge in Washington Harbor on Washington Island,
the Plum Island Life-Saving crew braved the weather to help those in need. It took over fifty
minutes to get from the station to Detroit Harbor on Washington Island, as they faced up to
39
Records of the Washington Island Archives, Box 54, Washington Island, Wisconsin.
40
Records of the Washington Island Archives, Box 54, Washington Island, Wisconsin.
41
Zaske, Section 8, Page 9.
16
seventy mile per hour winds, freezing temperatures, and heavy snowfall.42 After landing in
Detroit Harbor, the crew carried their equipment, including beach apparatus and breeches buoy,
over land to the Washington Harbor on the northern end of Washington Island.43
When the crew arrived at Washington Harbor, one vessel, the Louisiana, was already on
fire and burned beyond rescue, with the crew safe ashore. One vessel, the barge Halstead,
needed assistance, and the life-saving crew attempted to set up the breeches buoy in order to get
the crew of the barge off. Unfortunately, the Halstead proved to be too far from shore to get a
line to her.44
For twenty hours, in full gale conditions, the Plum Island Life-Saving crew attempted to
get a line to the Halstead. Finally, the barge was forced ashore by a large swell, and the life-
savers assisted the crew of the barge to disembark while she was hard against a shelf of rock.45 In
all, the life-saving crew spent four days on patrol in Washington Harbor, waiting to assist other
vessels if necessary in some of the nastiest weather imaginable. The Plum Island crew‟s response
to the Louisiana and Halstead in November of 1913, showed their bravery and commitment to
While responding to vessels and persons in danger comprised the most important and
newsworthy moments as life-savers and eventually U.S. Coast Guardsmen, it was not
representative of daily life at the Plum Island Life-Saving Station. The daily routine of a surfman
depended on the day. On Monday, the keeper would drill the surfmen on the use of the beach
42
Records of the United States Coast Guard, Record Group 26, Box 485, National Archives and Records
Administration, Chicago, Illinois. Also, Zaske, Section 8, Page 9.
43
Ibid.
44
Ibid.
45
Ibid.
17
apparatus, Tuesday was set aside for practice with the station‟s boats, Wednesday involved the
drilling of surfmen with the international code of signals (and the keeper would mark in the daily
log when surfmen got answers wrong), Thursday saw more beach apparatus drills, and Friday
was for the practice of resuscitating drowning victims. Saturdays were usually set aside for
When not participating in drills or practice, or on patrol or lookout, the surfmen usually
completed some form of maintenance around the station, either painting the buildings, working
on piers, or working on the station‟s boats.47 When not doing general work around the station,
the keeper authorized surfmen to depart the station between sunrise and sunset for recreational
activities. The only condition was the surfmen were not allowed to go beyond signal distance.48
Additionally, keepers gave one surfman liberty per day. With seven surfmen, each man received
at least four days of liberty per month, which they would usually take one of the station‟s smaller
The reason surfmen typically went to Washington Island for the day was to visit extended
family and friends. This became a way to escape the isolation of being on Plum Island with a
keeper and six other surfmen for the majority of the month. For some of the surfmen, they did
not have to go to Washington Island to be with family. Beginning in the infancy of the station
and continuing for decades, surfmen built homes on the island for themselves and their
Standard practice of the U.S. Life-Saving Service was to sign surfmen to one year
contracts, with the surfmen required to work and live at the station during the active season,
46
Stonehouse, 67.
47
Records of the United States Coast Guard, Record Group 26, Box 480-485, National Archives and Records
Administration, Chicago, Illinois.
48
Stonehouse, 75.
49
Stonehouse, 76.
18
usually April through December.50 Although several surfmen left the island when the season
concluded, several surfmen stayed on Plum Island with their families. The U.S. Life-Saving
Service permitted surfmen to build cabins near the station, the cabins being typically made out of
There is evidence of cabins for families of surfmen on Plum Island as early as 1898, as
Martin Knudsen, the keeper of the Plum Island range light station on the other side of the island
recalls. In fact, the Knudsens hosted the life-saving crew and their families for the Christmas
holiday in 1898.52 Ice skating on a pond became a winter holiday tradition for the crews and
families of the Plum Island range light station and Plum Island Life-Saving Station.53
One difference between life and work on Plum Island, compared to other life-saving
stations was the availability of able surfmen. During the first decade of the twentieth century,
Great Lakes life-saving stations faced serious personnel issues. Low pay and the lack of a
pension program in the U.S. Life-Saving Service led to diminished numbers of surfmen. Besides
low pay, the life-savers, who were convinced their work was as dangerous as the soldiers and
sailors in the military, who did receive pensions, also desired those specific benefits.54
shipping companies on the Great Lakes, lobbied for Congress to create pensions for life-savers,
knowing their positive impact on Great Lakes shipping. However, Congress agreed it would set a
would soon ask for pensions as well.55 With no pension program established by Congress and
50
Canfield and Allan, 7.
51
Ibid.
52
Karges, 70.
53
Karges, 75. In fact, three of the cabins built by surfmen for their families on Plum Island are now on Washington
Island after being dragged across the ice in the wintertime.
54
Stonehouse, 40.
55
Ibid.
19
still low pay rates, some life-saving stations on the Great Lakes had only four surfmen on their
roster. Many temporary surfmen or volunteer surfmen were used by many stations on the lakes
during this shortage, with the condition finally stabilized between 1909 and 1912.56 Curiously,
there was no shortage of surfmen on Plum Island. While occasionally a surfman would leave to
pursue a career in the Great Lakes shipping business, or left due to personal reasons or health
concerns, the roster of the Plum Island Life-Saving Station remained filled and constant through
the years.
By 1914, fewer steamers on the Great Lakes took chances by sailing through coastal
hazards like the ones found in Death‟s Door. With the increased use of deep water transportation,
life-saving stations like the one on Plum Island viewed less steamers passing by, decreasing the
chances for local wrecks.57 This trend influenced the Treasury Department, the government
agency responsible for the U.S. Life-Saving Service, to propose the merging of the U.S. Life-
Saving Service and the Revenue-Cutter Service. By 1915, both were under the jurisdiction of the
One would think the change of the Plum Island Life-Saving Station from the U.S. Life-
Saving Service to the U.S. Coast Guard was drastic. That was not the case. Although the status
of the keeper and surfmen of the station changed from civilian to military and they became year-
round rather than seasonal employees, not much in the day to day operation changed on Plum
Island. They gained an additional surfman to the crew, and there were opportunities to acquire
newer equipment, but the daily operations stayed the same, including drills, patrols, and
56
Stonehouse, 41.
57
Stonehouse, 198.
58
Ibid.
20
responses to wrecks. Even the log books used for the U.S. Life-Saving Service saw continued
From the beginning of the life-saving station‟s presence on Plum Island, a strong
relationship developed with the community of nearby Washington Island. The first major
connection between the two islands were the people that either came from Plum Island to
Washington Island, or the native Washington Islanders who became surfmen on Plum Island, or
Washington Island girls who married life-savers or Coast Guardsmen. Looking at the roster
through the years of the U.S. Life-Saving Station and U.S. Coast Guard Station on Plum Island,
it is easy to see the names of people who either were originally from Washington Island or
eventually made their home on Washington Island after their service. Names such as Jessen,
Jacobsen, Moe, Magnusson, Gunnerson, Lockhardt, Peterson, Aznoe, Landin, and Thiele are just
some of the names connected with both service on Plum Island and life on Washington Island.
Another, perhaps obvious link between the two islands, was the number of rescues
involving vessels or persons from Washington Island. Looking through the wreck report logs of
the Plum Island station, a majority of the wrecks responded to were for vessels from Washington
Island. In fact, more entries in the wreck report logs are dedicated to rescue efforts for
Washington Island mail carriers than for any other reason. It makes perfect sense Washington
Island mail carriers would comprise a large portion of the “wrecks” the Plum Island crew
responded to. Often one person taking a small boat across a distance of over seven miles, with
noted dangerous waters and weather, almost daily, was a situation designed for trouble. Whether
21
the problem was human or mechanical, or attributed to dangerous conditions, being a mail carrier
on Washington Island was not easy in the 1800s and early 1900s.
One anecdote signifying the Plum Island crew‟s care for the people and property of
Washington Island came in the aforementioned “White Hurricane” in November of 1913. After
the Plum Island life-saving crew arrived in Washington Harbor on Washington Island, they
realized they were too late to save the steamer Louisiana. While the ship was lost, the fire that
burned her endangered the shoreline as well. A house owned by Mr. and Mrs. G. Goodman
(Gudmundur) was only a few yards away from the burning steamer, and was also in danger of
catching fire. Viewing possible tragedy, the Plum Island crew along with the Goodman‟s
neighbors packed all of the elderly couple‟s household goods and removed them quickly. The
crew also watched over the fire and the belongings until the danger and fire subsided.59
Perhaps the most well known moment where the crew of the Plum Island station assisted
the people of Washington Island came in March of 1935. After attending a basketball game in
Ellison Bay, on the Door County Peninsula, six men travelled in a car over the ice back to
Washington Island. However, the car fell through about two miles from Gills Rock in 120 feet of
water. There were a number of cars, also having previously attended the basketball game,
planning to cross the ice that morning, but the car with the six men decided to go earlier and take
The car plunged below the ice with the six men inside of it. John W. (Bub) Cornell, Jr.,
Norman Nelson, Ray Richter, Leroy Einarson, Roy Stover, and Ralph Wade all drowned. The
crew of the U.S. Coast Guard Station on Plum Island immediately responded and began the
process of removing the car and men from Death‟s Door. Using grappling hooks, the Coast
59
Andersen, 162.
60
Andersen, 334.
22
Guardsmen retrieved the bodies one by one, and eventually brought the submerged automobile
up to the surface with the help of three local commercial fishing boats and a Coast Guard cutter,
there to help break up some of the ice.61 While there was nothing the life-savers on Plum Island
could do to prevent the tragedy, their actions in recovering the bodies for the grieving families
remains an important moment in the history of not only the Plum Island Life-Saving / Coast
During the 1920s and 1930s, significant changes were made to the social and physical
landscape of the U.S. Coast Guard Station on Plum Island. One change was in the number of
cottages for Coast Guardsmen and their families. As previously mentioned, it was common for
crew members of the U.S. Life-Saving Service and later the U.S. Coast Guard to build small
cottages for their families near the station. Some of the cottages were there as early as 1898 and
by 1915 there were only four of the cottages on the island. However, by the late 1920s, there
were seven cottages, making Plum Island a place for a number of families during the
summertime.62
There were even calls for a school on Plum Island to accommodate all the children living
there for part of the year. One article found in the local newspaper the Door County Advocate
stated as much:
A school on Plum Island has been the dream of the light keepers and life savers
for the past 20 years. There seems to be a move on foot to get one there in the near future.
Many children reside there, especially in the summer, and they certainly are entitled to
education. Indian schools and schools for foreigners and schools in other lands are
maintained by our government and it certainly seems that Plum Island is entitled to one.
61
Andersen, 333-334.
62
Zaske, Section 8, Page 10.
23
At present, the Captain of the station‟s wife and children are in Sturgeon Bay on account
of schools.63
While no school opened on Plum Island, the talk concerning such ideas proved that Plum
Island during the 1920s and 1930s was definitely different than it was any time before or after.
One of the best accounts of what life was like then came from Sylvia Landin, the wife of
Wallace Landin, a Coast Guardsman stationed on Plum Island, who lived with him and their four
children on the island from 1929 to 1935.64 Sylvia and her husband bought one of the seven
cottages on the island from a former crew member for $325 in 1929.65
Although the station had electricity at the time, she recalled that none of the cottages did,
making winter rough with heat provided by coal or wood and light created by kerosene lanterns.
However, school age children did not endure the winters because they lived with family or
friends on Washington Island or the Door County Peninsula to receive education, justifying some
desires for a school to be built on Plum Island. Really, the lifeline for the families on the island
was the station‟s thirty-six foot supply boat Valiant, which the crew nicknamed “the Bull”
because of her ability to fight through anything from winter ice to summer storms.66 “The Bull”
not only took the men and families to Washington Island or the peninsula for liberty days, but
also delivered groceries from Washington Island grocery stores to Plum Island at the request of
This supply boat earned a special place in the history of the Plum Island station, even
inspiring a poem:
63
Andersen, 206.
64
Door County Advocate (Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin), 7 June 1994.
65
Ibid.
66
Door County Advocate (Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin), 7 June 1994. Also Stacy and Virginia Thomas, Images of
America: Guarding Door County, Lighthouses and Life-Saving Stations (Chicago: Arcadia Publishing, 2005), 115.
67
Door County Advocate (Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin), 7 June 1994.
24
A ship to sail the icebound waters of Death‟s Door,
A friend of the native, a friend of the crew.
To the top of the world the “BULL” will go
On its mission of duty in that land of snow.
Brings food to the hungry, brings aid to the sick,
Goes to the rescue of disabled ships.
A ship for humanity, a ship for demands
To serve in its hardship this great Northland.
To Washington Island it means needed comfort and care.
A ship to be proud of – a crew that will dare.
The flag that it flies, well known to man –
That of the Nation of dear Uncle Sam.
So, long live the “BULL” to carry the mail
For Washington Island, that great Wonderland.68
While some experiences for families on Plum Island seemed rough or rustic, most
including Sylvia Landin recalled their time on the island with fondness. One aspect of life on
Plum Island people revere were the holidays and parties held on the island throughout the year.69
It makes sense. At this time, some could argue that Plum Island was more than just a small island
with a U.S. Coast Guard station and a lighthouse station, it was a community. Social events like
the ones listed above probably strengthened a sense of community for those on the island and
alleviated some of the daily feelings of isolation found on an island without many of the
amenities found on either Washington Island or the mainland. In fact, social events were not
uncommon at life-saving stations on the Great Lakes. Parties, picnics and dances were
There were other changes to the physical landscape other than the cottages. By the mid-
1920s, the boat bays in the station were virtually unusable. Larger boats and low water made it
extremely difficult for the crew to take their boats from the boat bays onto the launch and into
68
Andersen, 264.
69
Door County Advocate (Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin), 7 June 1994.
70
Stonehouse, 77.
25
the water.71 Realizing they were obsolete, the boat bays were enclosed in 1929 underneath a half-
story gable roof addition which straddled the ridge of the original roof. The enclosed area soon
provided more storage and added room for additional sleeping quarters for Coast Guardsmen.72
While this action provided the station with extra space, it did not permanently solve the issue
regarding boat launching. For ten years, the station‟s boats were simply stored outdoors and
Finally, a three-bay boathouse was built in 1939 on concrete piers approximately two
hundred feet into the water.74 The boathouse, which still exists today, exhibits Colonial Revival
architecture with arched and multi-paned windows, corner pilasters, and friezes. Other
characteristics of the boathouse including its proportions and symmetry further suggest it is of
the Colonial Revival style.75 The boathouse on Plum Island remains significant. It is an example
of a “Roosevelt-type” boathouse, one of only fifty built and only one of twenty-four to still be
standing. Four of the twenty-four are on Lake Michigan, and the one on Plum Island is the only
Less than a decade after the completion of the boathouse, a growing trend in the United
States Coast Guard threatened the survival of the Plum Island station. Following World War
Two, with improved communication and navigational instruments available and bigger and safer
freighters common on the Great Lakes, transportation on the lakes was markedly easier and less
71
Zaske, Section 8, Page 10. Also, Stacy and Virginia Thomas, 113.
72
Ibid.
73
Ibid.
74
Zaske, Section 8, Page 11.
75
Ibid.
76
Zaske, Section 8, Page 10.
26
dangerous.77 This influenced the Coast Guard to evaluate the importance of life-saving stations
on the Great Lakes, including Plum Island. The Coast Guard determined several stations on the
lakes were no longer useful and should be closed. Fortunately, Plum Island was not one of those
stations. In some cases, the process involved the federal government liquidating the stations
chosen for closing and selling the land for less than assessed value.78
Undoubtedly, one of the reasons why the Coast Guard chose to keep the station on Plum
Island had to do with the crew‟s added responsibilities. In 1939 the U.S. Coast Guard absorbed
the U.S. Lighthouse Service. While both the light keepers and assistants at the Plum Island range
lights and at the lighthouse on nearby Pilot Island joined the Coast Guard to continue their stay at
By 1945, the keepers and assistants on both islands either retired or were transferred,
leaving the Coast Guard crew at the life-saving station to man the lights.80 This altered the daily
routine for Coast Guardsmen on Plum Island. Ensuring the lights were lit, the fog signals on both
islands sounded during appropriate weather, and completing routine maintenance on the lights
became common for the crew on Plum Island. These tasks were essential in the operation of a
competent lighthouse station. Knowing what the Coast Guardsmen did to maintain these lights
certainly influenced the decision to keep the life-saving station on Plum Island.
Another reason why the Plum Island station survived was due to its location. On May 1st,
1933, the life-saving station in Bailey‟s Harbor, Wisconsin on the Door County Peninsula saw all
but two of its surfmen transferred to other stations on the Great Lakes.81 This set in motion the
77
Canfield and Allan, 65.
78
Canfield and Allan, 66.
79
Karges, 88.
80
Karges, 89, 139.
81
Stacy and Virginia Thomas, 106.
27
eventual closing of the Bailey‟s Harbor station which happened in 1948.82 By transferring almost
all of the surfmen in the early 1930s, the Coast Guard surely knew the Bailey‟s Harbor station
was on its way out. Keeping the Plum Island station became essential, considering the nearest
life-saving station was in Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin at the southern end of the Door Peninsula.
Leaving the coastline of the peninsula and the waters of Death‟s Door unwatched was not in the
While the life-saving station on Plum Island survived the purge of the late 1940s, it was
again the subject of rumors for closing in the early 1970s. A number of budget cuts for the U.S.
Coast Guard in 1973 led to the decision to close the station on Plum Island. However, there was
a significant response of protest over this decision from numerous recreational boaters and
nearby residents, leading to a change in plans. The Coast Guard fixed the situation by deciding to
keep the Plum Island station open, but only from Memorial Day to Labor Day, and operated by
Coast Guard reservists.83 Helping this decision was a $600,000 appropriation from Congress in
the form of an amendment to the 1974 Transportation Bill which funded the operation of several
Coast Guard facilities, including Plum Island.84Like the transfer of surfmen from the Bailey‟s
Harbor Life-Saving Station in the 1930s, this action by the Coast Guard in 1973 established the
It was seventeen years later when the Coast Guard determined the Plum Island station
was too costly to continue operating. In the fall of 1990, the Coast Guard decided to relocate the
station to Washington Island, where it would also be operated during the summertime, but by
82
Ibid.
83
Zaske, Section 8, Page 11.
84
Records of the Washington Island Archives, Box 5, Folder 3, Washington Island, Wisconsin.
28
crew members of the Sturgeon Bay Canal Station, and not reservists.85 Besides the cost of
upkeep, there were other factors in the decision to remove a Coast Guard presence from Plum
Island.
For one thing, vessels in distress were not as common as they once were in the area.
Advances in technology made recreational boating safer and as time progressed, there were
fewer and fewer merchant vessels traveling through the Porte des Morts Passage. Far gone were
the days when the crew on Plum Island would sometimes see twenty to twenty-five steamers
pass by per day. With declining numbers of large ships passing by the island, the focus for a
Coast Guard presence in the area centered on recreational boaters, which were more common in
the harbors around Washington Island and privately owned Detroit Island, rather than near the
When the Coast Guard abandoned the station, Plum Island fell into the hands of the
Bureau of Land Management where it would stay for seventeen years. During this time, the
island received sporadic maintenance and attention from the government. The structures,
including the Roosevelt-type boathouse, outbuildings, and Duluth-Type Life-Saving Station, the
last of its kind on the Great Lakes, slowly deteriorated from the elements.
During this period of neglect, Plum Island became a home for migratory birds and other
wildlife creating unfettered residences. Fittingly, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service proposed to
take over the island as part of the Green Bay National Wildlife Refuge, once the Coast Guard
completed a cleanup of lead and fuel contamination on the island which cost a total of $863,000.
85
Ibid.
29
86
Finally, in October of 2007, the Bureau of Land Management transferred Plum Island to the
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, where it remains as part of the Fish and Wildlife‟s Green Bay
While keeping Plum Island as a refuge for birds and other wildlife is a noble cause, there
is too much maritime and social history remaining in the island‟s structures and in the memories
of those who once lived there. Knowing Plum Island‟s cultural and historic resources were
important to preserve, the non-profit organization the Friends of Plum and Pilot Islands began a
partnership with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to restore the structures on the island while
Following the partnership between the Friends of Plum and Pilot Islands and the U.S.
Fish and Wildlife Service, there has been tremendous progress in attempts to restore the life-
saving station on Plum Island. Ultimately, the future of the station depends on the community
members of Washington Island and the Door County Peninsula and others concerned with what
happens to the island. While the Friends of Plum and Pilot Islands can apply for grants to restore
the structures and build off of the fact the structures on the island were placed on the National
Register of Historic Places in July of 2010, it is going to take more work to save the life-saving
86
Green Bay Press-Gazette (Green Bay, Wisconsin), 6 November 2004.
87
Zaske, Section 8, Page 11.
30
Bibliography
Primary Sources:
Unpublished Papers
Records of the United States Coast Guard. Record Group 26, National Archives and Records
Administration, Chicago, Illinois.
Newspapers
Secondary Sources
Books
Andersen, Hannes M. Washington Island: A Maritime History Through the Years, Volume II. Washington
Island, Wisconsin: published by the author, 2009.
Canfield, Edward J., D.O. and Thomas A. Allan, Ph.D. Life on a Lonely Shore: A History of the
Vermillion Point Life-Saving Station. Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan: Lake Superior State University
Press, 1991.
Karges, Steve. Keepers of the Lights: Lighthouse Keepers & Their Families, Door County, Wisconsin-
1837-1939. Ellison Bay, Wisconsin: Wm Caxton Ltd, 2000.
Stonehouse, Frederick. Wreck Ashore: The United States Life Saving Service on the Great Lakes. Duluth,
Minnesota: Lake Superior Port Cities, 1994.
Thomas, Stacy and Virginia Thomas. Images of America: Guarding Door County, Lighthouses and Life-
Saving Stations. Chicago: Arcadia Publishing, 2005.
Weiss, George. The Lighthouse Service: Its History, Activities, and Organization. Baltimore, Maryland:
Johns Hopkins University Press, 1926.
31
National Register of Historic Places Nominations
Zaske, Sarah. Plum Island, Wisconsin, “National Register of Historic Places Nomination,”
National Park Service, 2010.
Websites
http://www.westegg.com/inflation/infl.cgi
32