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They often include oils that are good for a specific skin type, along with other ingredients
added to help skin conditions such as acne or psoriasis.
To avoid irritation or possible allergic reactions, facial soaps are most often made without
added colors or fragrances, though some clays (page xx) contribute natural color when
used. I’ve also included a select list of essential oils (page xx) that may be helpful for
various skin conditions.
To use facial soap, gently wet your face and the bar of soap with mildly warm water. Create
a light lather in your hands and gently rub the lather over the skin of your face. Rinse well
with tepid water. Follow with a moisturizer suitable for your skin type.
If you find that your skin is too sensitive for a particular facial soap recipe, it can often be
used as a hand or body soap instead.
The recipes in this book make around 2.5 pounds of soap (7 to 8 bars)
and will perfectly fill a Crafter’s Choice Regular Silicone Loaf Mold 1501.
(Available on Amazon or at Wholesale Supplies Plus.) For more mold
options, check out my article, 15+ Pretty Silicone Molds for Soap.
Apricot Kernel Oil (Prunus armeniaca) – for normal to dry skin, anti-aging,
high in essential fatty acids, use 15 to 20% in a recipe.
Argan Oil (Argania spinosa) – suitable for all skin types, helpful for reducing
acne scars, anti-aging, use up to 10% in a recipe.
Avocado Oil (Persea gratissima) – often helpful for eczema and dry skin, rich
and moisturizing, use 15 to 20% in a recipe.
Babassu Oil (Orbignya oleifera) – similar to coconut oil, but gentler in soap and ideal for those with
coconut allergy, use 10 to 30% in a recipe, higher amounts can be drying.
Borage Oil (Borago officinalis) – helpful for all skin types, reduces inflammation, use up to
10% in a recipe.
Castor Oil (Ricinus communis) – boosts the bubble factor in soaps, use 5 to 7% in a recipe.
Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao) – adds hardness to soap, best suited for dryer skin types,
use up to 15% in a recipe.
Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera) – adds great lather to soap, if allergic use
babassu instead, use 10 to 30% in a recipe, too much can dry your skin out.
Hazelnut Oil (Corylus americana) – nice for all skin types, but recommended
for acne-prone skin; astringent, shorter shelf life than some oils, use 10 to 15%
in a recipe.
Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis) – balances both dry and oily skin types, has a long shelf life,
use up to 10% in a recipe.
Kokum Butter (Garcinia indica) – adds hardness to soap, similar to cocoa butter, use up to
15% in a recipe.
Kukui Nut Oil (Aleurites moluccana) – may be useful for eczema or psoriasis, feels creamy and
nourishing, use up to 10% in a recipe.
Macadamia Oil (Macadamia integrifolia) – nice for dry skin types, protects and nourishes,
use up to 10% in a recipe.
Mango Butter (Mangifera indica) – repairs dry or damaged skin, adds creaminess to soap,
use up to 15% in a recipe.
Neem Oil (Melia azadirachta) – antimicrobial, helpful for acne or fungal skin conditions,
repels ticks & mites, has a strong scent, avoid if pregnant, use up to 10% in a recipe.
For example, coconut oil may help soften and moisturize when applied directly to
some extra dry skin types, but when transformed into soap, coconut oil becomes
extremely cleansing and can easily dry out skin if used in excess. So just keep in mind
that comedogenic ratings don’t always apply when it comes to soap and you may
have to experiment to find the oils that your unique skin type likes best.
Rice Bran Oil (Oryza sativa) – gentle, good for all skin types but especially nice for dry or mature
skin, use 15 to 20%, or can be used at higher rates to replace olive oil
Rosehip Seed Oil (Rosa rubiginosa) – rich in antioxidants, helpful for weathered or damaged skin,
expensive so may be better used in a lotion or cream, use 5 to 10% in a soap recipe.
Safflower Oil (Carthamus tinctorius) – gentle, great for all skin types, use up to 15% in a recipe .
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum parkii or Vitellaria paradoxa) – similar to and can be interchanged
with mango butter, reparative, use up to 15% in a recipe.
Sunflower Oil (Helianthus annuus) – for all skin types and broken or easily irritated skin, look for
high oleic version for longer shelf life, use 15 to 20% in a recipe.
THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 8
Herbs for skin care
Herbal infusions make a wonderful addition to soap recipes. While some of their benefits
are undoubtedly destroyed during the soapmaking process, many healthful components are
resistant to both the heat and alkaline conditions and will remain in the final bar, contributing
their unique properties to your soapy creations.
To make, gather a few handfuls of fresh flowers or herbs and place them in a heatproof jar or
pitcher. Lightly fill the jar about half way with the flowers/herbs. If you don’t have enough
plants to do so, use a smaller jar or steep the tea a few extra minutes to make up for it.
If you don’t have a source of fresh plants, you can fill the jar about 1/8 to 1/4 full with dried
herbs/flowers instead. The size of the jar will depend on how much tea you need for your
recipe. The recipes in this book use around 8 to 9 ounces of liquid, so a pint jar works
perfectly.
There are two ways to make infused oil – the slow way or the fast way. While some have good
results using fresh plant matter for this purpose, I find that the high water content leads to
quicker spoilage and a shorter shelf life for the finished oil.
For this reason, I recommend using dried herbs and flowers or at least freshly picked plants
that have been allowed to wilt overnight on clean dishcloths or paper towels, letting most of
the moisture evaporate.
You can use infused olive oil for part, or the entire amount called for in a recipe. If you only
have 8 ounces of infused oil but need more for a recipe, that’s fine – just use plain olive oil to
make up the difference.
After that time has passed, strain the oil from the herbs/flowers. Discard the plant material and
pour the oil into a clean, dry mason jar. Cap, label and store in a cool, dark place for up to a year.
You may want to infuse your oil on a sunny windowsill instead of a dark area. Extended
exposure to sunlight tends to discolor and age herbs though, so stash them in a cabinet after a
week or two.
Set the pan over a low burner and allow the water
to gently heat up. If the water starts boiling or heavily
steaming, it's getting too hot. This process makes a
double boiler of sorts, that gently and indirectly warms
the oil to speed up the infusing process.
After about two hours, remove from heat and strain the
infused oil into a clean, dry mason jar. Store in a cool,
dark place for about a year.
To add clay powders to soap, you can mix directly with the hot lye solution for an overall even
color in the finished soap, or dilute with 2 to 3 times the amount of water and blend in at
trace. If your clay comes in a wet form, use a similar amount but try blending it with the oils
using your immersion blender, before adding in the lye solution.
Bentonite Clay – soothing for red inflamed skin, good for Rhassoul Clay – loaded with trace
oily skin types, use 2 tsp PPO for a pale gray tone. minerals, cleanses all skin types and
leaves it smooth and clean, helpful
Cambrian Blue Clay – rich in nutrients for blackheads, use 2 tsp PPO for a
and algae, gentle for all skin types, grayish-brown color.
mined from salt lakes in Siberia &
sometimes difficult to source, use 1 to 3 Rose Clay (Rose Kaolin Clay) – for all
tsp PPO for a blue to blue-green color. skin types, gentle, reduces inflammation
and evens skin tone, use ½ to 2 tsp PPO
Dead Sea Clay – deeply cleansing and for a light to medium-dark pink color.
detoxifying, use 2 tsp PPO for a gray
color. Yellow Brazilian Clay – gentle enough
for sensitive skin, use ½ to 2 tsp PPO for
Egyptian Pink Clay – gentle, suitable for shades of yellow with a slight brownish
dry skin or all skin types, use 2 tsp PPO orange cast.
for a soft pink color.
Yellow French Clay – mild and gentle,
French Green Clay – deeply cleansing for suitable for all skin types, use ½ to 1 tsp
oily or combination skin, use 1 to 3 tsp PPO for a soft subdued yellow.
PPO for shades of green.
Adzuki Beans – a gentle exfoliator to help brighten and soften skin, grind and stir in 1 to 2
tsp of the powder PPO once the soap starts to emulsify or at very light trace.
Agave Nectar – a vegan alternative to honey, adds a bit of lather and label appeal,
use up to 1 tsp PPO.
Aloe – adds moisturizing properties and lather, replace all or part of the water in a recipe with
aloe vera liquid or a blend of 50% water + 50% aloe vera gel.
Charcoal – adds a dark gray or black color to your soap, said to detoxify and remove
impurities from the skin, use 1 tsp PPO.
Chlorella – shown to have anti-inflammatory activity on acne, turns soap a beautiful green
that lightens over time, use 1 tsp PPO mixed into the hot lye solution.
Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE) – helps extend the shelf life of soaps by preventing
rancidity, use up to or around 10 to 20 drops PPO stirred into the warmed oils, too much can
darken your soap.
Salt – dissolve ½ tsp PPO in distilled water before making the lye solution, adds hardness to
soap (can use sodium lactate instead).
Silk (Tussah) – gives a silky luxurious feel, use a pinch or about 1 inch finely chopped fibers
PPO dissolved into the hot lye solution.
Sodium Lactate – stir 1 tsp PPO into the cooled lye solution to help harden soap and make
it easier to unmold (can use salt instead).
Vinegar – replace a portion of the distilled water in a recipe with apple cider vinegar to enrich
soap, may be helpful for acne prone skin.
Witch Hazel –anti-inflammatory and astringent, is often used to tone and tighten skin, replace
a small portion (1/2 to 1 oz) of a recipe’s liquid with witch hazel and blend in at light trace.
Usage rates are given at half the amount as regular soap for the body, to keep bars on the
barely scented side. You may wish to add more if seeking a more noticeable fragrance.
Acne
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) 7 g PPO
Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea) 6 g PPO
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) 9 g PPO
Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin) 7 g PPO
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officeinalis) 5 g PPO
Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) 7 g PPO
Litsea (Litsea cubeba) 7 g PPO
Eczema
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) 7 g PPO
Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) 7 g PPO
Juniper (Juniperus communis) 7 g PPO
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) 9 g PPO
Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii) 5 g PPO
Rosacea
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) 7 g PPO
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) 9 g PPO
Rose (Rosa damascena) 7 g PPO
Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii) 5 g PPO
Psoriasis
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Bergamot (Citrus bergamia) 7.5 g PPO
Juniper (Juniperus communis) 7 g PPO
Cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica) 7 g PPO
Manuka (Leptospermum scoparium) 5 g PPO
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) 9 g PPO
Oily Skin
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Grapefruit (Citrus x paradesi) 11 g PPO
Lemon (Citrus limon) 11 g PPO
Lime (Citrus aurantifolia) 11 g PPO
Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis) 11 g PPO
Frankincense (Bosweillia Carterii) 7 g PPO
Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) 7 g PPO
Aging Skin
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) 7 g PPO
Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea) 6 g PPO
Frankincense (Bosweillia Carterii) 7 g PPO
Myrrh (Commiphora myrrha) 7 g PPO
Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii) 5 g PPO
Lye Solution:
• 3.6 oz (102 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 8.4 oz (238 g) chilled aloe vera liquid
• 1 tsp salt
Optional Extras:
• 10 - 20 drops of ROE (in warm oils)
• This is a pure castile soap that will improve with age. Cure at least 6 to 8 weeks before
using, but it will be much nicer after several months to a year of cure time.
• To help extend shelf life during the long cure time, add 10 to 20 drops of ROE (rosemary
oleoresin extract) to the warm oils before blending in the lye solution.
• If aloe vera liquid isn’t available, try using a mixture of half water and half bottled aloe vera
gel instead.
Lye Solution:
• 3.8 oz (108 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) distilled water
• ½ tsp rose clay
Extras:
• 12 g geranium essential oil (optional)
• 1.5 tsp ground adzuki beans
• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil; adjust the lye amount to 3.89 oz (110 g)
if doing so.
• Adzuki beans can be found in some grocery stores or an online vendor such as Amazon.
Use an electric coffee grinder to grind them to a very fine powder. They act as a gentle
exfoliator to help brighten and soften skin. Stir in the powder once the soap starts to
emulsify or at very light trace, along with the geranium essential oil if using.
Lye Solution:
• 3.85 oz (109 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 7 oz (198 g) distilled water
• 2 tsp yellow French clay (optional)
Extras:
• 2 oz banana puree (added to warmed oils)
• 2 tsp honey blended with 2 tsp warm
water (at trace)
• When soap reaches emulsion or light trace, blend in the diluted honey. Be sure to mix well
to avoid dark spots in the final soap.
Lye Solution:
• 3.77 oz (107 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) frozen almond milk
• If allergic to wheat germ oil, try using argan, avocado, sweet almond or borage oil instead.
An alternate substitute for shea (or mango) butter is lard or tallow.
• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil; adjust the lye amount to 3.82 oz (108 g)
if doing so.
Lye Solution:
• 3.76 oz (107 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9 oz (255 g) frozen buttermilk
Extras:
• 1 tsp honey blended with 1 tsp warm water
• Because of the high amount of olive oil, this soap will benefit from a longer cure time of at
least 6 weeks or longer. To help extend shelf life during the longer cure time, add 10 to 20
drops ROE (rosemary oleoresin extract) to the warm oils before blending in the lye solution.
• Stir the diluted honey into the soap batter once emulsion or light trace is reached.
Be sure to blend well so there are no dark honey spots in the soap.
• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil; adjust the lye amount to 3.82 oz (108 g)
if doing so.
Lye Solution:
• 3.79 oz (107 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) distilled water
• 3 tsp Egyptian pink clay
(or 1 tsp rose clay)
• large pinch of Tussah silk
Optional Extras:
• 1 tsp (3 g) geranium essential oil
• For an alternate version of this soap, try using 1 tsp purple Brazilian clay and lavender
essential oil instead of geranium.
Lye Solution:
• 3.8 oz (108 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) chilled carrot &
turmeric juice
• If you use a juicer to make carrot juice, press a few small (1”) pieces of fresh turmeric root
along with the carrots. Alternatively, blend several 1” pieces of turmeric with distilled
water to make a bright orange “juice”. Strain and combine with bottled or fresh carrot
juice; about 1 part turmeric juice to 3 or 4 parts carrot juice. (Use more carrot than
turmeric to preserve the orange tone of the soap.)
Lye Solution:
• 3.83 oz (109 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) distilled water
Extras:
• 3 tsp French green clay + 2 Tbsp water
• 1 tsp charcoal + 1 tsp oil (from recipe)
• Next, blend the charcoal mixture into the other half of the soap batter until it’s a
medium thick trace. Make sure the mold is flat on the table; pour the charcoal batter
on top of the green clay layer. Cover lightly with wax or freezer paper, then a towel or
blanket to encourage gel phase. Remove from mold after 24 to 48 hours.
• For variation, you can swap the two colors around or try other colored clays such as blue
Cambrian, purple Brazilian or rose clay.
Lye Solution:
• 3.72 oz (106 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 6.5 oz (184 g) distilled water
• ¼ tsp Brazilian yellow clay
Extras:
• 2 oz (57 g) pureed peaches + cream (see notes)
• This soap does best when temperatures are kept on the cooler side. For best results, let the
lye solution cool to under 100°F, use individual molds to encourage faster cooling and place
in the refrigerator for 24 hours after making.
• Due to the high olive oil amount that bastille soaps have, it’s suggested to let them cure
longer (8 to 10+ weeks) for a harder longer lasting bar. To help extend shelf life, add around
20 drops of ROE (rosemary oleoresin extract) to the warmed oils.
• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil; adjust the lye amount to 3.76 oz (107 g)
if doing so.
Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 27
Tamanu & Pine Tar
For Psoriasis & Other Troubled Skin Conditions
Lye Solution:
• 3.68 oz (104 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.5 oz (269 g) distilled water
Extras:
• 2 tsp colloidal oats (blend in at trace)
• Pine tar can be found on Amazon; I most often use the Ausen brand for its high quality
and ability to be used on humans as well as animals.
• Soaps with pine tar will reach trace quickly! You may only need to hand stir this recipe, or
use the immersion blender in just a few short bursts. Avoid over mixing or your soap will
likely seize up before it can be poured into a mold.
• Coconut oil can replace babassu oil, with a slight lye adjustment to 3.73 oz (106 g).
Lye Solution:
• 3.84 oz (109 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 7.25 oz (206 g) chilled yarrow tea
Extras:
• 2 oz (57 g) witch hazel (at light trace)
• Blend the witch hazel into the soap once you reach light trace. Be sure that it’s blended
in well, to avoid separation.
• Safflower oil can be substituted with sunflower, hazelnut or walnut oil, while hemp oil can
be replaced with grapeseed oil.
• Coconut oil can replace babassu oil, with a slight lye adjustment to 3.89 oz (110 g).
Lye Solution:
• 3.97 oz (113 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.85 oz (279 g) chilled or frozen kombucha
• Instead of cocoa or kokum butter, you could also use shea butter, tallow or lard.
• To replace coconut oil, use babassu oil instead. The lye amount will need to be slightly
adjusted to 3.92 oz (280 g).
Lye Solution:
• 3.86 oz (109 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9 oz (255 g) distilled water
Extras:
• 2 tsp charcoal (add to warmed oils)
• 15 g tea tree essential oil
• 10 g lavender essential oil
• Coconut oil can be replaced with babassu oil; change the lye amount to 3.81 oz (108 g)
if doing so.
• Blend the charcoal into the warmed oils before stirring in the lye solution. You can also add
the charcoal to the lye solution, though it’s a little messier to clean up that way.
• Stir the essential oils in at light trace, making sure they’re completely blended in.
Lye Solution:
• 3.84 oz (109 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9 oz (255 g) distilled water
Extras:
• 2 tsp charcoal (add to warmed oils)
• 15 g tea tree essential oil
• 10 g lavender essential oil
• Blend the charcoal into the warmed oils before stirring in the lye solution. You can also
add the charcoal to the lye solution, though it’s a little messier to clean up that way.
• Stir the essential oils in at light trace, making sure they’re completely blended in.
Lye Solution:
• 3.65 oz (104 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 7 oz (198 g) distilled water
• 2 tsp chlorella
• 2 oz (57 g) sage infused vinegar (see note)
• Add the infused vinegar to the lye solution after it has cooled, right before blending
the lye solution with the warmed oils.
• Chlorella not only adds a pretty color to soap that starts off bright green, but fades to
light green over time, but it also has been studied for its anti-inflammatory properties and
ability to fight antibiotic resistant Propionibacterium acnes strains. Stir the chlorella into
the lye solution while it’s still hot.
• For variety, try using thyme, yarrow or rosemary infused vinegar instead.
Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 33
Tomato & Red Clay Soap
Cleans & Clarifies Oily and Acne-Prone Skin
Lye Solution:
• 3.68 oz (104 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9 oz (255 g) chilled tomato/water juice combo
• 1.5 tsp red Brazilian clay
• Add the red Brazilian clay to the hot lye solution. For a stronger red color, use twice as
much clay.
• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil. If using coconut oil instead of babassu oil, the
lye amount will slightly change to 3.73 oz (106 g).
Lye Solution:
• 3.78 oz (107 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 7 oz (198 g) distilled water
• ½ tsp annatto seed powder
Extras:
• 2 oz (57 g) mango puree (add to oils)
• To make the mango puree: blend fresh or thawed frozen mango with a few
tablespoons of water until it’s finely pureed. Make sure there are no lumps or large
pieces of fruit left or they’ll turn into dark spots in your soap. Weigh out 2 ounces of
puree and blend into the warmed oils, before adding the lye solution.
• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil; if doing so, adjust the lye amount to 3.83 oz (109 g).
Lye Solution:
• 3.79 oz (107 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) chilled mushroom tea (see note)
• Coconut oil can be replaced with babassu oil; if doing so, adjust the lye amount to 3.75 oz (106 g).
I hope you found it a helpful addition to your Natural Soap Making eBook.
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Acknowledgments
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