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IMPORTANT LEGAL STUFF

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold in whole or in part
without the prior written permission of the author. Please do not copy or
duplicate entire recipes or pages from this book onto your blog or website, or into
another digital or print book, without express permission from the author. Thank
you for respecting the author’s expended time and effort by abiding by these
guidelines.

There may be a few affiliate links scattered throughout this ebook. If you click
on one and buy something, the author earns a small commission for sending
customers their way.

The author claims no responsibility to any person or entity for any liability, loss
or damage caused, or alleged to be caused, directly or indirectly as a result of the
use, application or interpretation of the material contained herein.

This volume, Natural Facial Soaps, is intended to be a companion guide to the


author’s Natural Soap Making ebook. Be sure that you have read and thoroughly
understand the entire soap making process and safety guidelines before
undertaking any projects in this book.

All images and text © by Jan Berry I TheNerdyFarmWife.com

Layout and Cover Design by Honey Bee Hill Creatives LLC.

A Special Note Concerning Essential Oils


If you’re pregnant, nursing, taking medication or have health conditions, consult
with a health care provider before using essential oils.

Print Permission
The purchaser of this eBook has the author’s express written permission to make
a print copy of this eBook and its accompanying printables via a local copy shop or
print center, such as Staples©, for the purchaser’s personal use only.

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 3


Table of Contents
What are facial soaps? 5
Oils, butters & fats 6
Herbs for skin care 9
Making teas & infusions 10
Making infused oils 11
Clays for facial soaps 13
Other useful additions 14
Essential oils by skin type 16
Recipes
Aloe castile soap 19
Adzuki bean & rose clay 20
Honey & banana soap 21
Wheat germ & almond milk 22
Buttermilk & honey soap 23
Rose, silk & shea butter 24
Carrot & turmeric soap 25
French green clay & charcoal 26
Peaches & cream bastile 27
Tamanu & pine tar 28
Yarrow & witch hazel 29
Kombucha facial bars 30
Charcoal & tea tree (vegan version) 31
Charcoal & tea tree (tallow version) 32
Sage & apple cider vinegar 33
Tomato & red clay soap 34
Mango facial soap 35
Shitake mushroom soap 36
End notes 37
About the author 38
Available products 39

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 4


What are facial soaps?
Facial soaps are designed to be extra gentle on the delicate skin found on our faces.
They’re usually lower in coconut oil or other highly cleansing oils (such as babassu or palm
kernel oil) than regular soap recipes, to avoid stripping the skin of its natural moisture as
you wash.

They often include oils that are good for a specific skin type, along with other ingredients
added to help skin conditions such as acne or psoriasis.

To avoid irritation or possible allergic reactions, facial soaps are most often made without
added colors or fragrances, though some clays (page xx) contribute natural color when
used. I’ve also included a select list of essential oils (page xx) that may be helpful for
various skin conditions.

To use facial soap, gently wet your face and the bar of soap with mildly warm water. Create
a light lather in your hands and gently rub the lather over the skin of your face. Rinse well
with tepid water. Follow with a moisturizer suitable for your skin type.

If you find that your skin is too sensitive for a particular facial soap recipe, it can often be
used as a hand or body soap instead.

The recipes in this book make around 2.5 pounds of soap (7 to 8 bars)
and will perfectly fill a Crafter’s Choice Regular Silicone Loaf Mold 1501.
(Available on Amazon or at Wholesale Supplies Plus.) For more mold
options, check out my article, 15+ Pretty Silicone Molds for Soap.

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 5


Oils, Butters & Fats
Here are some oils to consider using in facial soaps, along with their benefits and suggested usage
rates. (See the Natural Soapmaking eBook pages 82 to 90 for more on making oil changes to a
recipe using a lye calculator.)

Almond Oil, Sweet (Prunus Amygdalus dulcis) – nourishes normal to dry


skin, can often be interchanged with apricot kernel or sunflower oil, use 15 to
20% in a recipe.

Apricot Kernel Oil (Prunus armeniaca) – for normal to dry skin, anti-aging,
high in essential fatty acids, use 15 to 20% in a recipe.

Argan Oil (Argania spinosa) – suitable for all skin types, helpful for reducing
acne scars, anti-aging, use up to 10% in a recipe.

Avocado Oil (Persea gratissima) – often helpful for eczema and dry skin, rich
and moisturizing, use 15 to 20% in a recipe.

Babassu Oil (Orbignya oleifera) – similar to coconut oil, but gentler in soap and ideal for those with
coconut allergy, use 10 to 30% in a recipe, higher amounts can be drying.

Borage Oil (Borago officinalis) – helpful for all skin types, reduces inflammation, use up to
10% in a recipe.

Castor Oil (Ricinus communis) – boosts the bubble factor in soaps, use 5 to 7% in a recipe.

Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao) – adds hardness to soap, best suited for dryer skin types,
use up to 15% in a recipe.

Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera) – adds great lather to soap, if allergic use
babassu instead, use 10 to 30% in a recipe, too much can dry your skin out.

Grapeseed Oil (Vitis vinifera) – commonly recommended for oily, acne-prone


or red/inflamed skin, use 10 to 15% in a recipe.

Hazelnut Oil (Corylus americana) – nice for all skin types, but recommended
for acne-prone skin; astringent, shorter shelf life than some oils, use 10 to 15%
in a recipe.

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Oils, Butters & Fats -- cont.
Hempseed Oil (Cannabis indica) – for all skin types, moisturizes and balances, may help
eczema, psoriasis or damaged skin, use 10 to 15% in a recipe

Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis) – balances both dry and oily skin types, has a long shelf life,
use up to 10% in a recipe.

Kokum Butter (Garcinia indica) – adds hardness to soap, similar to cocoa butter, use up to
15% in a recipe.

Kukui Nut Oil (Aleurites moluccana) – may be useful for eczema or psoriasis, feels creamy and
nourishing, use up to 10% in a recipe.

Lard – conditions skin, has a creamy lather, use up to 20% in a recipe.

Macadamia Oil (Macadamia integrifolia) – nice for dry skin types, protects and nourishes,
use up to 10% in a recipe.

Mango Butter (Mangifera indica) – repairs dry or damaged skin, adds creaminess to soap,
use up to 15% in a recipe.

Neem Oil (Melia azadirachta) – antimicrobial, helpful for acne or fungal skin conditions,
repels ticks & mites, has a strong scent, avoid if pregnant, use up to 10% in a recipe.

What about comedogenic ratings of oils?


When designing lotions and creams, we often look at the comedogenic rating of certain
oils and butters to pinpoint which ones might be more likely to clog the pores of acne-
prone skin. However, the saponification process changes these oils in many ways, making
those ratings less relevant when it comes to creating soap recipes.

For example, coconut oil may help soften and moisturize when applied directly to
some extra dry skin types, but when transformed into soap, coconut oil becomes
extremely cleansing and can easily dry out skin if used in excess. So just keep in mind
that comedogenic ratings don’t always apply when it comes to soap and you may
have to experiment to find the oils that your unique skin type likes best.

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Oils, Butters & Fats -- cont.
Olive Oil (Olea europaea) – neutral, good for all skin types, low lather, use up to 100% in a recipe,
higher amounts need a longer cure time to harden.

Rice Bran Oil (Oryza sativa) – gentle, good for all skin types but especially nice for dry or mature
skin, use 15 to 20%, or can be used at higher rates to replace olive oil

Rosehip Seed Oil (Rosa rubiginosa) – rich in antioxidants, helpful for weathered or damaged skin,
expensive so may be better used in a lotion or cream, use 5 to 10% in a soap recipe.

Safflower Oil (Carthamus tinctorius) – gentle, great for all skin types, use up to 15% in a recipe .

Shea Butter (Butyrospermum parkii or Vitellaria paradoxa) – similar to and can be interchanged
with mango butter, reparative, use up to 15% in a recipe.

Sunflower Oil (Helianthus annuus) – for all skin types and broken or easily irritated skin, look for
high oleic version for longer shelf life, use 15 to 20% in a recipe.

Tallow – skin conditioning, adds hardness, use up to 30 to 40% in a recipe.

Tamanu Oil (Calophyllum inophyllum) –


excellent for eczema and a variety of troublesome
skin conditions, used to reduce scars, use around
5% in a recipe.

Walnut Oil (Juglans regia) – helps with redness,


inflammation, helpful for both dry and oily skin,
high in antioxidants, use 10 to 15% in a recipe.

Wheat Germ Oil (Triticum vulgare) – high in


vitamin E, nourishes and reduces scars, best
for very dry, weathered or mature skin types,
use around 5% in a recipe

THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 8
Herbs for skin care
Herbal infusions make a wonderful addition to soap recipes. While some of their benefits
are undoubtedly destroyed during the soapmaking process, many healthful components are
resistant to both the heat and alkaline conditions and will remain in the final bar, contributing
their unique properties to your soapy creations.

Calendula (Calendula officinalis) - repairs damaged or broken skin


Camomile (Matricaria chamomilla) - soothes and calms itchy or splotchy skin
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) - for itchy skin or eczema
Dandelion Flowers (Taraxacum officinale) - for dry chapped skin
Dandelion Leaves & Root (Taraxacum officinale) - for acne prone skin
Echinacea (E. purpurea; purple coneflower) - anti-inflammatory
Elder Flowers (Sambucus nigra ) - for smoother clearer skin
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) - calms irritated skin
Plantain (Plantago major) - soothing for all skin types
Roses (Rosa spp.) - anti-inflammatory
Sage (Salvia officinalis) - for normal to oily skin
Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) - conditions all skin types
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) - for acne prone or oily skin
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) - for oily and acne prone skin
Violet (Viola odorata) - for irritated, red or chapped skin

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Making teas and infusions
Instead of using plain distilled water in a recipe, you can also use teas or water infusions.

To make, gather a few handfuls of fresh flowers or herbs and place them in a heatproof jar or
pitcher. Lightly fill the jar about half way with the flowers/herbs. If you don’t have enough
plants to do so, use a smaller jar or steep the tea a few extra minutes to make up for it.

If you don’t have a source of fresh plants, you can fill the jar about 1/8 to 1/4 full with dried
herbs/flowers instead. The size of the jar will depend on how much tea you need for your
recipe. The recipes in this book use around 8 to 9 ounces of liquid, so a pint jar works
perfectly.

Pour simmering hot water over the plant matter,


cover with a saucer and let steep for 30 minutes to
an hour. Distilled water is usually recommended since
tap water can sometimes contain minerals or other
contaminants that might cause problems during the
soap making process, though I’ve also used spring
water, rain water and well water before.

For an even stronger tea, place the herb/flower filled


jar in your refrigerator for several hours or overnight.
However, be aware that if your tea is too strong/
dark, it can make your final bar have a brownish hue.

Once it has finished steeping, strain and completely


cool the tea before using the liquid in your recipe.

You can store freshly made tea in your refrigerator


for about two days before using, or freeze six to nine
months for longer storage.

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Making infused oils
Herbal and floral infused oils are staples to keep on hand for making salves, creams,
lip balms and soap.

There are two ways to make infused oil – the slow way or the fast way. While some have good
results using fresh plant matter for this purpose, I find that the high water content leads to
quicker spoilage and a shorter shelf life for the finished oil.

For this reason, I recommend using dried herbs and flowers or at least freshly picked plants
that have been allowed to wilt overnight on clean dishcloths or paper towels, letting most of
the moisture evaporate.

You can use infused olive oil for part, or the entire amount called for in a recipe. If you only
have 8 ounces of infused oil but need more for a recipe, that’s fine – just use plain olive oil to
make up the difference.

For both the fresh way and the slow way,


you’ll need:
• ¼ to ½ cup dried flowers or herbs
(use more for bulky herbs like rose
petals, less for herbs like crumbled
nettle leaves)
• 1 pint jar
• a bottle of olive oil (light colored oil
makes for a lighter colored soap;
a dark green oil might tint your
finished soap)

Place the dried herbs or flowers in the pint jar.


Pour olive oil over them until the jar is almost
filled. Leave a little space at the top, to allow
for expansion. On the next page, I’ll detail
both methods of infusing.

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Infusing Oils The Slow Way
Cover your jar filled with dried herbs and oil and tuck it away in a cool, dark place for about four
weeks, shaking every few days, or as you remember to.

After that time has passed, strain the oil from the herbs/flowers. Discard the plant material and
pour the oil into a clean, dry mason jar. Cap, label and store in a cool, dark place for up to a year.

You may want to infuse your oil on a sunny windowsill instead of a dark area. Extended
exposure to sunlight tends to discolor and age herbs though, so stash them in a cabinet after a
week or two.

Infusing Oils The Fast Way


Make sure your jar is heatproof (canning jars should be.)
Set the jar containing herbs/flowers and oil down into a
medium saucepan that has been filled with several
inches of water.

Set the pan over a low burner and allow the water
to gently heat up. If the water starts boiling or heavily
steaming, it's getting too hot. This process makes a
double boiler of sorts, that gently and indirectly warms
the oil to speed up the infusing process.

Keep a close eye during the heating phase, to make


sure that the water doesn’t evaporate out or the oil gets
overheated. If it gets overly hot, your oil will take on the
unpleasant smell of deep fried leaves.

After about two hours, remove from heat and strain the
infused oil into a clean, dry mason jar. Store in a cool,
dark place for about a year.

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Clays for facial soaps
Mineral rich clays can be added to facial bars for their benefits along with the bonus of natural
color. If you have extremely dry skin, use clays more sparingly to avoid further dryness.
Normal, acne prone or oily skin types can use clays more generously.

To add clay powders to soap, you can mix directly with the hot lye solution for an overall even
color in the finished soap, or dilute with 2 to 3 times the amount of water and blend in at
trace. If your clay comes in a wet form, use a similar amount but try blending it with the oils
using your immersion blender, before adding in the lye solution.

*PPO = per pound (16 oz) of oil in a soap recipe

Bentonite Clay – soothing for red inflamed skin, good for Rhassoul Clay – loaded with trace
oily skin types, use 2 tsp PPO for a pale gray tone. minerals, cleanses all skin types and
leaves it smooth and clean, helpful
Cambrian Blue Clay – rich in nutrients for blackheads, use 2 tsp PPO for a
and algae, gentle for all skin types, grayish-brown color.
mined from salt lakes in Siberia &
sometimes difficult to source, use 1 to 3 Rose Clay (Rose Kaolin Clay) – for all
tsp PPO for a blue to blue-green color. skin types, gentle, reduces inflammation
and evens skin tone, use ½ to 2 tsp PPO
Dead Sea Clay – deeply cleansing and for a light to medium-dark pink color.
detoxifying, use 2 tsp PPO for a gray
color. Yellow Brazilian Clay – gentle enough
for sensitive skin, use ½ to 2 tsp PPO for
Egyptian Pink Clay – gentle, suitable for shades of yellow with a slight brownish
dry skin or all skin types, use 2 tsp PPO orange cast.
for a soft pink color.
Yellow French Clay – mild and gentle,
French Green Clay – deeply cleansing for suitable for all skin types, use ½ to 1 tsp
oily or combination skin, use 1 to 3 tsp PPO for a soft subdued yellow.
PPO for shades of green.

Purple Brazilian Clay – gentle, absorbs


dirt and toxins, use 1 to 2 tsp PPO for a
beautiful purple hue.

Red Brazilian Clay – strong drawing


power, most suitable for oily skin types,
use 1 tsp PPO for a dark red color.

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Other useful additives
Add interest and a bounty of benefits to your soaps.
*PPO = per pound (16 oz) of oil in a soap recipe

Adzuki Beans – a gentle exfoliator to help brighten and soften skin, grind and stir in 1 to 2
tsp of the powder PPO once the soap starts to emulsify or at very light trace.

Agave Nectar – a vegan alternative to honey, adds a bit of lather and label appeal,
use up to 1 tsp PPO.

Aloe – adds moisturizing properties and lather, replace all or part of the water in a recipe with
aloe vera liquid or a blend of 50% water + 50% aloe vera gel.

Charcoal – adds a dark gray or black color to your soap, said to detoxify and remove
impurities from the skin, use 1 tsp PPO.

Chlorella – shown to have anti-inflammatory activity on acne, turns soap a beautiful green
that lightens over time, use 1 tsp PPO mixed into the hot lye solution.

Colloidal Oatmeal – soothing to eczema


and itchy inflamed skin conditions, use
around ½ Tbsp PPO.

Honey – nourishes skin and boosts lather,


use up to 1 tsp PPO.

Kombucha – use to replace all or part of


the water in a recipe, providing nutrients
and benefits to all skin types.
Milk Powders (cow, goat) – adds
nourishing alpha hydroxy acids, increases
lather, blend ½ Tbsp PPO into the warmed
oils before adding the lye solution.

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Other useful additives - cont.
Pine Tar – a dark strongly scented substance found in feed stores and on Amazon, many
who suffer from psoriasis or other tough to treat skin conditions find it incredibly helpful
when incorporated into soaps and salves.

Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE) – helps extend the shelf life of soaps by preventing
rancidity, use up to or around 10 to 20 drops PPO stirred into the warmed oils, too much can
darken your soap.

Salt – dissolve ½ tsp PPO in distilled water before making the lye solution, adds hardness to
soap (can use sodium lactate instead).

Silk (Tussah) – gives a silky luxurious feel, use a pinch or about 1 inch finely chopped fibers
PPO dissolved into the hot lye solution.

Sodium Lactate – stir 1 tsp PPO into the cooled lye solution to help harden soap and make
it easier to unmold (can use salt instead).

Vinegar – replace a portion of the distilled water in a recipe with apple cider vinegar to enrich
soap, may be helpful for acne prone skin.

Witch Hazel –anti-inflammatory and astringent, is often used to tone and tighten skin, replace
a small portion (1/2 to 1 oz) of a recipe’s liquid with witch hazel and blend in at light trace.

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Essential oils by skin type
Most facial soap recipes are left unscented to avoid potential irritants, but there are some
essential oils you can consider adding for their potential therapeutic properties. However,
since soap is a wash off product and essential oils can be costly, you may find these to be
more effective when used in a lotion, cream or salve.

Usage rates are given at half the amount as regular soap for the body, to keep bars on the
barely scented side. You may wish to add more if seeking a more noticeable fragrance.

*PPO = per pound (16 oz) of oil in a soap recipe

Acne
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) 7 g PPO
Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea) 6 g PPO
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) 9 g PPO
Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin) 7 g PPO
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officeinalis) 5 g PPO
Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) 7 g PPO
Litsea (Litsea cubeba) 7 g PPO

Eczema
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) 7 g PPO
Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) 7 g PPO
Juniper (Juniperus communis) 7 g PPO
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) 9 g PPO
Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii) 5 g PPO

Rosacea
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) 7 g PPO
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) 9 g PPO
Rose (Rosa damascena) 7 g PPO
Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii) 5 g PPO

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Essential oils by skin type - cont.
*PPO = per pound (16 oz) of oil in a soap recipe

Psoriasis
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Bergamot (Citrus bergamia) 7.5 g PPO
Juniper (Juniperus communis) 7 g PPO
Cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica) 7 g PPO
Manuka (Leptospermum scoparium) 5 g PPO
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) 9 g PPO

Oily Skin
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Grapefruit (Citrus x paradesi) 11 g PPO
Lemon (Citrus limon) 11 g PPO
Lime (Citrus aurantifolia) 11 g PPO
Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis) 11 g PPO
Frankincense (Bosweillia Carterii) 7 g PPO
Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) 7 g PPO

Aging Skin
Essential Oil Latin Name Usage
Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) 7 g PPO
Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea) 6 g PPO
Frankincense (Bosweillia Carterii) 7 g PPO
Myrrh (Commiphora myrrha) 7 g PPO
Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii) 5 g PPO

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Recipes
Aloe Castile Soap
Features Soothing Aloe Vera, Suitable for Most Skin Types

Oils & Butters:


• 28 oz (794 g) olive oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.6 oz (102 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 8.4 oz (238 g) chilled aloe vera liquid
• 1 tsp salt

Optional Extras:
• 10 - 20 drops of ROE (in warm oils)

Notes & Tips:


• Dissolve the salt in the aloe vera liquid before adding the lye. This helps harden the soap
and makes it easier to unmold. Alternatively, add 1.5 tsp of sodium lactate to the cooled lye
solution for a similar effect.

• This is a pure castile soap that will improve with age. Cure at least 6 to 8 weeks before
using, but it will be much nicer after several months to a year of cure time.

• To help extend shelf life during the long cure time, add 10 to 20 drops of ROE (rosemary
oleoresin extract) to the warm oils before blending in the lye solution.

• If aloe vera liquid isn’t available, try using a mixture of half water and half bottled aloe vera
gel instead.

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 19


Adzuki Bean & Rose Clay
Brightens & Exfoliates, Suitable for Most Skin Types

Oils & Butters:


• 12 oz (340 g) olive oil
• 6 oz (170 g) babassu oil
• 4.5 oz (128 g) mango (or shea) butter
• 3.5 oz (99 g) apricot kernel oil
(or sunflower oil)
• 2 oz (57 g) borage (or castor) oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.8 oz (108 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) distilled water
• ½ tsp rose clay

Extras:
• 12 g geranium essential oil (optional)
• 1.5 tsp ground adzuki beans

Notes & Tips:


• Stir the rose clay into the hot lye solution. It will give the soap an overall soft pink color,
plus potential benefits of soothing and evening out skin tone.

• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil; adjust the lye amount to 3.89 oz (110 g)
if doing so.

• Adzuki beans can be found in some grocery stores or an online vendor such as Amazon.
Use an electric coffee grinder to grind them to a very fine powder. They act as a gentle
exfoliator to help brighten and soften skin. Stir in the powder once the soap starts to
emulsify or at very light trace, along with the geranium essential oil if using.

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 20


Honey & Banana Soap
Features a Classic Skin Loving Combo, Suitable for Most Skin Types

Oils & Butters:


• 12.5 oz (354 g) olive oil
• 5.5 oz (156 g) coconut oil
• 4 oz (113 g) kokum (or cocoa) butter
• 4 oz (113 g) sunflower oil
(or sweet almond oil)
• 2 oz (57 g) argan oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.85 oz (109 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 7 oz (198 g) distilled water
• 2 tsp yellow French clay (optional)

Extras:
• 2 oz banana puree (added to warmed oils)
• 2 tsp honey blended with 2 tsp warm
water (at trace)

Notes & Tips:


• If argan oil isn’t available, try using borage, apricot kernel or sweet almond oil instead.
• Blend 1 to 2 bananas with a tablespoon of water or coconut milk until they're finely
pureed. Weigh 2 ounces of the banana puree and blend into the warmed oils before
adding the lye solution.

• When soap reaches emulsion or light trace, blend in the diluted honey. Be sure to mix well
to avoid dark spots in the final soap.  

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Wheat Germ & Almond Milk
Extra Nourishing, Suitable for Normal to Dry, or Mature Skin

Oils & Butters:


• 12 oz (340 g) rice bran (or olive) oil
• 6 oz (170 g) babassu oil
• 4 oz (113 g) shea (or mango) butter
• 3.5 oz (99 g) hazelnut (or sunflower) oil
• 1.5 (43 g) castor oil
• 1 oz (28 g) wheat germ oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.77 oz (107 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) frozen almond milk

Notes & Tips:


• You can use other types of milk if you wish such as cow, goat, coconut or oat milk.
• The day before you plan to make this soap, freeze the almond milk in ice trays. Remove
the cubes and place in a heatproof container. Slowly sprinkle the lye over the cubes and
stir until completely dissolved. This process will take several minutes; make sure the lye
is completely dissolved and no crystals remain at the bottom of the container.

• If allergic to wheat germ oil, try using argan, avocado, sweet almond or borage oil instead.
An alternate substitute for shea (or mango) butter is lard or tallow. 

• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil; adjust the lye amount to 3.82 oz (108 g)
if doing so.

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Buttermilk & Honey Soap
Creamy & Moisturizing, for Normal to Dry Skin

Oils & Butters:


• 18 oz (510 g) olive oil
• 6 oz (170 g) babassu oil
• 4 oz (113 g) shea (or mango) butter

Lye Solution:
• 3.76 oz (107 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9 oz (255 g) frozen buttermilk

Extras:
• 1 tsp honey blended with 1 tsp warm water

Notes & Tips:


• At least one day before you plan to make this soap, freeze the buttermilk in ice trays.
Remove the cubes and place in a heatproof container. Slowly sprinkle the lye over
the cubes and stir until completely dissolved. This will take around 5 to 7 minutes.
Make sure the lye is completely dissolved and no crystals remain at the bottom of the
container before proceeding.

• Because of the high amount of olive oil, this soap will benefit from a longer cure time of at
least 6 weeks or longer. To help extend shelf life during the longer cure time, add 10 to 20
drops ROE (rosemary oleoresin extract) to the warm oils before blending in the lye solution.

• Stir the diluted honey into the soap batter once emulsion or light trace is reached.
Be sure to blend well so there are no dark honey spots in the soap.

• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil; adjust the lye amount to 3.82 oz (108 g)
if doing so.

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Rose, Silk & Shea Butter
A Luxurious Experience for Normal to Dry Skin

Oils & Butters:


• 15.5 oz (439 g) olive oil
• 6 oz (170 g) coconut oil
• 4.5 oz (128 g) shea (or mango) butter
• 2 oz (57 g) castor oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.79 oz (107 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) distilled water
• 3 tsp Egyptian pink clay
(or 1 tsp rose clay)
• large pinch of Tussah silk

Optional Extras:
• 1 tsp (3 g) geranium essential oil

Notes & Tips:


• For an added touch of rose goodness, use rose infused olive oil.
• Snip the silk into small pieces and lightly fill 2 tablespoons with it. Stir the clay and silk into
the hot lye solution until dissolved.

• For an alternate version of this soap, try using 1 tsp purple Brazilian clay and lavender
essential oil instead of geranium.

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 24


Carrot & Turmeric Soap
Loaded with Antioxidants, For Normal to Dry, or Mature Skin

Oils & Butters:


• 14 oz (397 g) olive oil
• 5 oz (142 g) coconut oil
• 4 oz (113 g) apricot kernel oil
• 3.5 oz (99 g) cocoa butter
• 1.5 oz (43 g) castor oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.8 oz (108 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) chilled carrot &
turmeric juice

Notes & Tips:


• Apricot kernel oil can be substituted with sweet almond or sunflower oil, while the cocoa
butter can be replaced by kokum or shea butter, or tallow or lard.

• If you use a juicer to make carrot juice, press a few small (1”) pieces of fresh turmeric root
along with the carrots. Alternatively, blend several 1” pieces of turmeric with distilled
water to make a bright orange “juice”. Strain and combine with bottled or fresh carrot
juice; about 1 part turmeric juice to 3 or 4 parts carrot juice. (Use more carrot than
turmeric to preserve the orange tone of the soap.)

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 25


French Green Clay & Charcoal
Cleans Deeply & Gently, For Most Skin Types (Except Extra-Dry)

Oils & Butters:


• 14.5 oz (411 g) olive oil
• 5 oz (142 g) coconut oil
• 4 oz (113 g) mango butter
• 3 oz (85 g) hemp oil
• 1.5 oz (43 g) castor oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.83 oz (109 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) distilled water

Extras:
• 3 tsp French green clay + 2 Tbsp water
• 1 tsp charcoal + 1 tsp oil (from recipe)

Notes & Tips:


• To make the diagonal design: Make the soap batter as normal, but divide in equal halves
at emulsification (or extra light trace). In one half, blend in the diluted green clay to a
medium trace. Angle the loaf mold on a couple of books or a towel so that it’s slanted.
Pour the green portion of the soap into the mold, adjusting the angle if needed, so the
batter reaches each corner. Leave the mold undisturbed for around 5 to 10 minutes or
until it firms up enough not to move when the mold is straightened.

• Next, blend the charcoal mixture into the other half of the soap batter until it’s a
medium thick trace. Make sure the mold is flat on the table; pour the charcoal batter
on top of the green clay layer. Cover lightly with wax or freezer paper, then a towel or
blanket to encourage gel phase. Remove from mold after 24 to 48 hours.

• For variation, you can swap the two colors around or try other colored clays such as blue
Cambrian, purple Brazilian or rose clay.

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 26


Peaches & Cream Bastille
A Classic Combo, Suitable for Sensitive, Normal, Mature or Dry Skin

Oils & Butters:


• 22 oz (624 g) olive oil
• 4.5 oz (128 g) babassu oil
• 1.5 oz (43 g) castor oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.72 oz (106 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 6.5 oz (184 g) distilled water
• ¼ tsp Brazilian yellow clay

Extras:
• 2 oz (57 g) pureed peaches + cream (see notes)

Notes & Tips:


• To make the peaches and cream puree: Blend 1.2 oz of cream with 1.2 oz of fresh or
thawed frozen peaches until finally pureed. Weigh out 2 oz (57 g) of the resulting
mixture and keep in the refrigerator until ready to use in your soap. Blend the puree
into the warmed oils right before adding the lye solution.

• This soap does best when temperatures are kept on the cooler side. For best results, let the
lye solution cool to under 100°F, use individual molds to encourage faster cooling and place
in the refrigerator for 24 hours after making.

• Due to the high olive oil amount that bastille soaps have, it’s suggested to let them cure
longer (8 to 10+ weeks) for a harder longer lasting bar. To help extend shelf life, add around
20 drops of ROE (rosemary oleoresin extract) to the warmed oils.

• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil; adjust the lye amount to 3.76 oz (107 g)
if doing so.
Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 27
Tamanu & Pine Tar
For Psoriasis & Other Troubled Skin Conditions

Oils & Butters:


• 17 oz (482 g) olive oil
• 6.5 oz (184 g) babassu oil
• 1.5 oz (43 g) castor oil
• 1.5 oz (43 g) tamanu oil
• 1.5 oz (43 g) pine tar

Lye Solution:
• 3.68 oz (104 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.5 oz (269 g) distilled water

Extras:
• 2 tsp colloidal oats (blend in at trace)

Notes & Tips:


• Pine tar is an incredibly helpful ingredient when making products for those with psoriasis,
while tamanu oil shines at improving tough skin conditions. This soap’s scent is strong at
first, but it’ll mellow as it cures.

• Pine tar can be found on Amazon; I most often use the Ausen brand for its high quality
and ability to be used on humans as well as animals.

• Soaps with pine tar will reach trace quickly! You may only need to hand stir this recipe, or
use the immersion blender in just a few short bursts. Avoid over mixing or your soap will
likely seize up before it can be poured into a mold.

• Coconut oil can replace babassu oil, with a slight lye adjustment to 3.73 oz (106 g).

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 28


Yarrow & Witch Hazel
Helpful for Oily or Acne Prone Skin

Oils & Butters:


• 13.5 oz (383 g) olive oil
• 6.5 oz (184 g) babassu oil
• 3.5 oz (99 g) safflower oil
• 2.5 oz (71 g) hemp oil
• 2 oz (57 g) castor oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.84 oz (109 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 7.25 oz (206 g) chilled yarrow tea

Extras:
• 2 oz (57 g) witch hazel (at light trace)

Notes & Tips:


• To make the yarrow tea place ¼ cup dried yarrow (or ½ cup fresh yarrow) in a jar, pour 1
cup simmering water over. Steep 30 minutes to 1 hour, strain and then chill completely
before using in recipe.

• Blend the witch hazel into the soap once you reach light trace. Be sure that it’s blended
in well, to avoid separation.

• Safflower oil can be substituted with sunflower, hazelnut or walnut oil, while hemp oil can
be replaced with grapeseed oil.

• Coconut oil can replace babassu oil, with a slight lye adjustment to 3.89 oz (110 g).

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 29


Kombucha Facial Bars
Loaded With Skin-Loving Nutrients; For Normal to Dry Skin

Oils & Butters:


• 15 oz (425 g) olive oil
• 6 oz (170 g) coconut oil
• 3.5 oz (99 g) cocoa (or kokum) butter
• 3 oz (85 g) macadamia nut (or sunflower) oil
• 1.5 oz (43 g) castor oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.97 oz (113 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.85 oz (279 g) chilled or frozen kombucha

Notes & Tips:


• Similar to the Peaches & Cream Bastille soap, this is another recipe that does best if
temperatures are kept on the cooler side. Make sure the kombucha is completely chilled
or frozen before adding the lye. Use individual molds so that the soap batter cools
quickly. If your house is very warm, you may wish to place the soap in the refrigerator.

• Instead of cocoa or kokum butter, you could also use shea butter, tallow or lard.
• To replace coconut oil, use babassu oil instead. The lye amount will need to be slightly
adjusted to 3.92 oz (280 g).

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 30


Charcoal & Tea Tree (Vegan Version)
Detoxifies and Deep Cleans Most Skin Types

Oils & Butters:


• 12.5 oz (354 g) olive oil
• 6 oz (170 g) coconut oil
• 3.5 oz (99 g) sweet almond oil
• 3 oz (85 g) mango butter
• 1.5 oz (43 g) castor oil
• 1.5 oz (43 g) tamanu oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.86 oz (109 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9 oz (255 g) distilled water

Extras:
• 2 tsp charcoal (add to warmed oils)
• 15 g tea tree essential oil
• 10 g lavender essential oil

Notes & Tips:


• Sweet almond oil can be replaced with sunflower (all skin types), grapeseed (for oily skin) or
rice bran oil (for drier skin). Mango butter can be replaced with shea or cocoa butter.

• Coconut oil can be replaced with babassu oil; change the lye amount to 3.81 oz (108 g)
if doing so.

• Blend the charcoal into the warmed oils before stirring in the lye solution. You can also add
the charcoal to the lye solution, though it’s a little messier to clean up that way.

• Stir the essential oils in at light trace, making sure they’re completely blended in.

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 31


Charcoal & Tea Tree (Tallow Version)
Detoxifies and Gently Cleans Most Skin Types, Especially Normal to Dry

Oils & Butters:


• 10 oz (284 g) olive oil
• 6 oz (170 g) coconut oil
• 6 oz (170 g) rice bran oil
• 4 oz (113 g) tallow (or lard)
• 2 oz (57 g) castor oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.84 oz (109 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9 oz (255 g) distilled water

Extras:
• 2 tsp charcoal (add to warmed oils)
• 15 g tea tree essential oil
• 10 g lavender essential oil

Notes & Tips:


• Rice bran oil can be replaced with sunflower or sweet almond oil. You could also use more
olive oil in its place.

• Blend the charcoal into the warmed oils before stirring in the lye solution. You can also
add the charcoal to the lye solution, though it’s a little messier to clean up that way.

• Stir the essential oils in at light trace, making sure they’re completely blended in.

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 32


Sage & Apple Cider Vinegar
Features Herbal Infused Vinegar + Acne Fighting Chlorella

Oils & Butters:


• 12 oz (340 g) olive oil
• 6 oz (170 g) coconut oil
• 4 oz (113 g) sunflower oil
• 3 oz (85 g) grapeseed oil
• 3 oz (85 g) jojoba oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.65 oz (104 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 7 oz (198 g) distilled water
• 2 tsp chlorella
• 2 oz (57 g) sage infused vinegar (see note)

Notes & Tips:


• To make this soap, you’ll first need to make a sage infused vinegar. Fill a half-pint or jelly
jar about ¼ to ½ of the way with fresh sage, then fill the rest of the way with apple cider
vinegar. (If using dried sage, use 1/8 to 1/4 cup of dried herb instead.) Infuse for at least
one day or up to a week, then strain for use in this recipe. Extra vinegar can be added to
bath water, or diluted and used as a hair rinse.

• Add the infused vinegar to the lye solution after it has cooled, right before blending
the lye solution with the warmed oils.

• Chlorella not only adds a pretty color to soap that starts off bright green, but fades to
light green over time, but it also has been studied for its anti-inflammatory properties and
ability to fight antibiotic resistant Propionibacterium acnes strains. Stir the chlorella into
the lye solution while it’s still hot.

• For variety, try using thyme, yarrow or rosemary infused vinegar instead.
Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 33
Tomato & Red Clay Soap
Cleans & Clarifies Oily and Acne-Prone Skin

Oils & Butters:


• 14 oz (397 g) olive oil
• 6.5 oz (184 g) babassu oil
• 4 oz (113 g) grapeseed oil
• 2 oz (57 g) jojoba oil
• 1.5 oz (43 g) castor oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.68 oz (104 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9 oz (255 g) chilled tomato/water juice combo
• 1.5 tsp red Brazilian clay

Notes & Tips:


• To make the tomato/water juice combo: Blend about 5 or 6 ounces of sliced or chopped
fresh tomato with a small amount of distilled water. Press through a sieve and strain.
Combine with enough distilled water to equal 9 ounces of liquid. Chill thoroughly before
using to make the lye solution.

• Add the red Brazilian clay to the hot lye solution. For a stronger red color, use twice as
much clay.

• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil. If using coconut oil instead of babassu oil, the
lye amount will slightly change to 3.73 oz (106 g).

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 34


Mango Facial Soap
Rich in Protective Phytonutrients for Mature or Most Skin Types

Oils & Butters:


• 14.5 oz (411 g) olive oil
• 5.5 oz (156 g) babassu oil
• 4 oz (113 g) sweet almond oil
• 4 oz (113 g) mango butter

Lye Solution:
• 3.78 oz (107 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 7 oz (198 g) distilled water
• ½ tsp annatto seed powder

Extras:
• 2 oz (57 g) mango puree (add to oils)

Notes & Tips:


• Stir the annatto seed powder into the hot lye solution. Strain once cooled, if you’d like to
reduce the amount of speckles. (Photo shows a finished soap made with unstrained lye
solution.) Alternatively, you can pre-infuse the olive oil with the annatto seed for several
days, strain and use the colored oil in the recipe.

• To make the mango puree: blend fresh or thawed frozen mango with a few
tablespoons of water until it’s finely pureed. Make sure there are no lumps or large
pieces of fruit left or they’ll turn into dark spots in your soap. Weigh out 2 ounces of
puree and blend into the warmed oils, before adding the lye solution.

• Babassu oil can be replaced with coconut oil; if doing so, adjust the lye amount to 3.83 oz (109 g).

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 35


Shiitake Mushroom Soap
Anti-Inflammatory, May Help Rosacea, Eczema, Acne

Oils & Butters:


• 10.5 oz (298 g) olive oil
• 5.5 oz (156 g) coconut oil
• 3 oz (85 g) mango butter
• 3 oz (85 g) shea butter
• 3 oz (85 g) sweet almond oil
• 1.5 oz (43 g) castor oil
• 1.5 oz (43 g) kukui nut oil

Lye Solution:
• 3.79 oz (107 g) sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• 9.25 oz (262 g) chilled mushroom tea (see note)

Notes & Tips:


• To make this soap, you’ll first need to make a mushroom tea. Place 1 cup of fresh sliced
shiitake muhrooms in a heatproof container and pour 1½ cups of simmering hot water over
them. Steep for 1 hour, strain and then place in the refrigerator until completely chilled.
Weigh out 9.25 oz (262 g) to make the lye solution.

• Kukui nut oil can be replaced with walnut or sunflower oil.

• Coconut oil can be replaced with babassu oil; if doing so, adjust the lye amount to 3.75 oz (106 g).

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 36


End Notes
Thank you for purchasing this Natural Facial Soaps companion guide!

I hope you found it a helpful addition to your Natural Soap Making eBook.

If you’d like to stay in touch, click HERE to sign up for my newsletter. About two to four
times per month, you’ll receive my latest natural soap recipes, DIY herbal ideas, bath and
beauty projects, along with information about my newest books.

You can also find me at:


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Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 37


About the author
Jan Berry is a writer, herbalist, soapmaker and owner
of the website The Nerdy Farm Wife. She lives on a
small farm in Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia with her
husband and two teenagers, along with a menagerie of
animals. She enjoys gardening, reading, word games and
spending time with her family.

Acknowledgments
The watercolor art in this ebook set can be found on creativemarket.com at the links below:
https://creativemarket.com/Kate_Vigdis/2026718-Watercolor-Alchemy-
Medicinal-Herbs

https://creativemarket.com/Vikeriya/751422-Watercolor-medicinal-herbs

Natural Facial Soaps THENERDYFARMWIFE.COM 38


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