Garment Manufacturing Process Lecture handouts Wollo University, KIoT

CHAPTER SIX

SYSTEMS AND CONTROL TECHNIQUES IN PRODUCTION PLANNING

In the process of quality control, the control at various levels of production of garments is
monitored by various control forms. This helps in maintaining continuity in the quality
control. Further monitoring of the production process will be controlled by documentation
(Mehta 1992). The stage-by-stage documentation helps in not only achieving the expected
quality but also in completion of production within the target time.

6.1. Sales Tally Form

This is made out in the production control department. It collects all sales orders to enable
production control to determine the total amount needed per style and colour. It gives
production control the information needed for ordering raw materials and scheduling the
cutting orders with respect to size and colour distribution and time. It contains the information
such as style, colour and style listing in chart form, the date, time span (daily or weekly) and
the serial number.

6.2. Purchase Order

This gives a merchant the authority to ship raw materials to the industry. It is usually made
out by purchasing, production control, or the departments using the materials or supplies.
Some industries may use purchase requisition forms, which are made out by production control
or the department using the items. The purchasing department then issues purchase orders
according to the needs listed on the collations. The purchase order for raw materials contains
the following information:
• The date the order is given
• The authority for the order and the order number
• The delivery date or dates and amounts per date
• Where and how to be shipped: also any pertinent packing instructions
• The firm’s name
• The vendor’s style and colour names and/or numbers for the raw material

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• The prices and terms, and the width, finish of fabric and other pertinent quality
specifications for the fabric, such as pick count and tensile strength that are needed for
this fabric

6.3. Receiving Memo

This is made out by the receiving department and lists the specification and amounts of all raw
materials and supplies that are received. It contains the following information:
• Date received
• Item received: specifications and amount (the shipper’s style number or name, also the
firm’s style number or name)
• From whom received (carrier)
• The shipper’s name
• Firm’s purchase order number for the shipment
• The shipper’s sales order number for the shipment
• The signature of the one receiving it signifying the purchase order authorizing the
shipment has been checked

6.4. Cutting Order

This form is the initial work order made by production control. Large industries may have
systems which comprises both cutting orders and cutting tickets. Nevertheless, there is a
difference between a spreading ticket and a cutting ticket or a cutting order although in certain
situations the three may be synonymous (Solinger 1988; Rogale and Polanovi 1996). The
precise definitions are given below: A cutting order is an authorization to cut a number of
garments made from one or more types of fabric and which may be cut in
one or more spreads. A cutting ticket is an authorisation to cut a number of garments that
must be cut in two or more spreads depending on the different types of materials used. A
spreading ticket is an authorisation to cut one of the fabric requirements for a given number
of garments on one cutting table upon which one can spread. When a garment is made of only
one type of fabric and the cut ordered is made in one spread, the spreading ticket and the
cutting order become synonymous. Cutting orders should carry the following information:

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• The date the order is issued and the serial number of the order
• Style number and/or name of the garment
• General description of the garment
• Listing of the types of fabrics to be cut for the garment
• The mill number or name of specific fabrics to be cut
• The colour and size distribution (and totals per size and colour)
• The date these garments are required for shipment
• Special remarks with reference to items such as zippers, buttons, etc.
Cutting tickets should contain the following information:
• The cutting order number against which the cutting ticket is made and the cutting
order date
• The cutting ticket number and its date
• The code numbers of the markers to be used
• The colour and size distribution of the amount to be cut
• The number of bundles made for the sewing department
• The work or pay control ticket numbers issued against the cutting ticket
• The date work began on the ticket; the date the work was completed
• The calculated yardage to be used
• The actual yardage used
• Remarks: any discrepancy between the above two yardages
• The names of those who worked on the lot
If spreading tickets are used, it may be advisable to enter a piece goods listing against each
spreading ticket. Spreading tickets would have essentially the same information as cutting
tickets plus the cutting table number and/ or cutting table area. Spreading tickets should list
the spreading, cutting and bundling times for the spread lot.

6.5. Recut or Swatch Ticket

This would initiate in the cutting apartment whenever garment panels that are damaged and
cannot be used have to be cut again. The same ticket may be used for cutting sample swatches

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for sales. Each ticket should contain the date of the recut, the style number and/or name of the
fabric, the colour, the inventory piece number, the yardage used, the garment section(s) recut,
the bundle number of the garment and the cutting ticket number (Ambastha 2012).

6.6. Bundle Ticket

This control form originates in either the cutting department or the payroll department. It is
generally used for pay control as well as production control purpose. The bundle ticket can be
used for unit flow as well as bundle flow production systems. The exact form of the ticket will
depend on the production system used (Solinger 1988; Sudarshan and Rao 2013). In
sectionalized production systems, the bundle ticket should be perforated in sections equal in
number to the total number of subassembly and assembly lines used to produce the product.
Each section should have subsections perforated, equal in number to the number of jobs in the
subassembly line covered by the ticket section. Each of these individual subsections will be
detached from the main body of the subsection by the operator after he or she completes the
job on the bundle. The main body of the subsection is the division that is returned to pay
control by the production supervisor after all the jobs in the section have been completed.
Each of these divisions should contain the following information:
• The serial number of the entire bun-die ticket
• The name of the subsection (such as sleeve, collar, front, etc.)
• The style name or number
• The cutting ticket number (or spreading ticket or more ticket number)
• The date of the compilation of the bundle in the cutting section
• The size, amount and colour of the bundle
• The name of each process in the section and the number of the operator who has carried
out the job against the respective job name. Also, the date the operation was completed
• The signature of the supervisor of the particular production section covered by the
ticket section
• The subsection that each operator takes. After job completion, the following
information should be listed:

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▪ The name of the job ▪ The style name or number

▪ The bundle ticket number
▪ The amount size and colour
of the bundle
▪ The price of job (if a piece
works usage system is used)
▪ The move ticket number
controlling the bundle (or
the cutting ticket number)

6.7. Move Ticket

This ticket would originate in the cutting department. It can be dispensed with under certain
production systems. It controls all the bundle tickets issued against a cutting or spreading
ticket. For example, assume a lot of 150 dozen in 6 colours, 3 sizes, has been cut on a given
cutting ticket which controlled three different spreads: one of body fabric, one of lining, the
other of trimming fabric (Vijayalakshmi 2009). The move ticket lists the bundles made and
the bundle ticket numbers assigned to this cutting ticket. The move ticket should contain the
following information:
• The cutting ticket number (and • The date the move ticket was
spreading ticket numbers) compiled
• The listing of bundle ticket numbers • The cutting order numbers
assigned • The style name or number
• The move ticket number • The completion date for the move
• The amount, colour and size of each ticket
bundle
A move ticket should actually be a style or job order control device. If it is a job order control
device, it may list more than one style when the production system and sequence are alike for
the style listed on the mover ticket (Babu 2006). Job order forms should contain the following
information:
• The job order number • The date the job order is required for
• The date the job order was made delivery

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• The listing of move tickets against

this job order
Each of these move ticket listings should give the style name or number of each move ticket,
the move ticket number, the cutting number of the move ticket, the total number of bundles
on each move ticket, the total amount per size and colour, the grand total per move ticket,
customer’s name (or code name or number) for when this order was made and the sales order
number(s) against which this job order was made.

6.8. Sewing Department Project Tally

This could initiate in the sewing department after a cutting department projection has been
received. The form informs the pressing department as to the exact time the pressing
department will receive each style (and the amount) during the next week. This form should
generally contain the following information:
• The date and hour each style or job order to be sewed will be ready
for off-pressing (or finishing)
• The amount, colours, size and bundle distribution of each style
• The cutting order number, cutting ticket number and move ticket number (or job order
number) of each bundle
• The date each bundle, style, move ticket or job order is required for shipment
• The date the projection is made and the time span the projection covers; a 3-copy
distribution would usually send one copy to production control, one to the sewing
department and one to the pressing department

6.9. Pressing Projection Tally

This originates in the pressing projection and would usually duplicate most of the information
listed in the sewing projection. A 3-copy distribution of this form would send one copy to
production control, one to pressing and one to the packing and shipping department.

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6.10. Packing and Shipping Projection

This would initiate in the shipping department after the pressing projection is received and it
would list the following information:
• The day and date of each shipment scheduled to be made in the coming week, the
customer’s name and the shipment destination
• The style, colour and size distribution of each shipment
• The sales order number against which the shipment is made
• The cutting order (or cutting ticket number) against which the shipment is made
• The date and time projection is made within the time span the projection covers

6.11. Shipping Memo

This is the form made out for each shipment when the shipment is made. It lists the contents
of each shipment and gives the distribution of each shipping container (cartons, cases, etc.). A
packing memo would be a form used to list the contents shipped in one container. As to whether
one or both of these two forms are used will depend on the shipping system used. Each form,
however, will contain the name, initials, or number of the clerk who packs the shipping
container(s) as well as the style, colour and size distribution in each container, the date the
shipment was made, the carrier, the sales order number of the shipment and the customer’s
purchase order number for the shipment if there is such number.

6.12. Invoice or Bill

This initiates in the accounting department after the charge or shipping memo is received. This
usually contains all the information on the shipping memo plus the price of each item and the
total amount due for the shipment. A 2-copy distribution would send one copy to the customer
and the other copy to the accounting department.

6.13. Production Control Ledger Cards

These forms are used by production to control purchasing, production and inventory activities.
Two basic forms may be used to control all these activities. Production Control Card I may be

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called as planning or purchasing control card for each style and colour, if a style is made in six
colours, six cards would be used to control the planning for this style (Fairhurst 2008).
Each card or form would contain the following information:
• Style number or name, colour, fabric description, fabric width, yards per dozen or unit.
• The purchase record section – this section of the record contains the date of each
purchase of fabric in this colour, the purchase order number, the mill to which the
purchase was issued, the yardage ordered, the price, the terms, the sales value of the
fabric ordered and the number of garments that can be cut from this purchase order.
• The sales record section – this section of the card lists the size distribution sold daily of
this style and colour. It also lists the total amount sold and the amount to be sold for
which fabric is purchased and available.
• Receiving record – this section lists the date cloth for this style and colour has been
received. It also lists the receiving memo number, purchase order number, mill name of
each cloth shipment received, the yardage received, the yardage cut, the cutting ticket
number of each cut, and the cutting order number of each cut.
• The cutting order record – this section lists the date and number of each cutting order,
the size distribution of each cutting order and the receiving memo number of the cloth
to be used for each cutting order. This Production Control Card I acts as a raw material
inventory record as well as a purchase control.
Production Control Card II is the finished garment inventory control for each style and colour.
Each card or form would contain the following information:
• Style number or name, colour, fabric description, fabric width, yards per dozen or unit.
• The cutting ticket record – this section contains the date each cutting ticket was
completed, the cutting order number, the amount cut per size, time total amount cut
and the yardage used.
• The finished garment record – this section consists of three subsections: ‘shipped
garments’, ‘on call or waiting garments’ and ‘stock sell garments’. ‘On call or waiting
garments’ are garments made against specific sales orders.

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These garments are waiting to be shipped on specific dates listed on the sales order or they are
waiting to be shipped as called for by the customer. Each subsection has daily listings for time
size distribution for the style, and the total amount shipped, on call, or in stock. A common
date line is used for all three subsections (Ambastha 2012). These two production control forms,
raw material inventory and finished garment inventory, may be incorporated into one control
form for controlling the complete inventory on the basic raw material used in the garment
(Tyler 1991; Shaeffer 2000). This may be done to save form space; duplicate date or total
amount columns may be eliminated. Posting time is also saved in such situations.

6.14. Equipment Maintenance Record

This is a form on which a record is kept of the maintenance and repair work done on production
equipment such as cutting, spreading, sewing and pressing machines (Ahmad et al. 2012). This
record enables one to determine when it has become economically feasible to replace the
machine. The record should contain the following information:
• Maker, model number and serial number
• Date of acquisition and cost
• Date and man hours spent on each repair and down-time adjustment
• The parts replaced in each repair and the cost
• Sum of operating hours between repairs and adjustment
• Summary of operating speeds and condition
• Summary of types of operation
• The operator (or operators); remarks section for cause of breakdown

6.15. Equipment Inventory Record

This record lists each machine by maker, model number and serial number, date of acquisition,
cost and relative performance value. In many firms, forms 17 and 18 can be combined as one
for some of the representative forms listed in this section.

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6.16. Receiving Quality Control Sheet

This lists the quality specifications to be measured when fabric or other raw material is
received. It lists those specifications that must be measured as soon as the fabric is received
and checked off against the supplier’s shipping memo sent with the fabric.

6.17. Laboratory Quality Control Sheet

This lists the quality specifications of raw material which must be measured in a testing
laboratory.

6.18. Rejection Memo

This is another quality control document forwarded by the receiving department to

purchasing, listing materials rejected with reasons for the same.

6.19. PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR JOB SUMMARY

As a production supervisor, you will be responsible for managing a diverse and talented
manufacturing team. Your primary goal is to properly organize staff members and achieve a
reasonable work flow throughout the day. Your position will also include directing,
disciplining, training, and assisting lower-level manufacturing employees in a factory setting.
Production Supervisor Job Responsibilities and Duties:
• Helps manufacturing staff achieve • Implements cost-saving strategies
company goals by communicating and techniques
expectations, planning, monitoring, • Ensures that production plans are
and evaluating job results completed by a certain time
• Enforces company policies and • Contacts appropriate sources for
guidelines repair issues
• Recruits, hires, and trains • Counsels’ employees on how to
employees achieve an optimal output or
• Assists workers by offering personal workflow
growth opportunities

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• Resolves issues and disputes • Maintains a clean and safe

between manufacturing employees environment for all workers
• Creates and maintains professional • Compiles and analyzes production
schedules records
• Communicates with and assists
other manufacturing departments
as needed
• Evaluates the condition of
production equipment

6.19.1. Production Supervisor Skills and Qualifications

• Previous supervisory experience • Comfortable working in an

• Excellent coaching and automotive manufacturing
communication skills environment
• Ability to track expenses and • Understanding of machine controls
compile budget reports and instrumentation
• Broad knowledge of production • Able to deal with complex issues in
planning processes a fast-paced setting
• Strategic planning skills
6.20. Decentralized Manufacturing and Vendor Management

6.20.1. Definition of Vendor Management

Vendor management is the process that empowers an organization to take appropriate

measures for controlling cost, reducing potential risks related to vendors, ensuring excellent
service deliverability and deriving value from vendors in the long-run.This includes
researching about the best suitable vendors, sourcing and obtaining pricing information,
gauging the quality of work, managing relationships in case of multiple vendors, evaluating
performance by setting organizational standards, and ensuring that the payments are always
made on time. So, that’s where the vendor management system or VMS comes in place.

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A vendor management system is an online web-based tool that acts as a single node to manage
all vendor related activities in any organization or business while ensuring improved efficiency
and long-term growth in a cost-effective manner.

6.20.2. Benefits of Vendor Management

By having proper vendor management in place, an organization can experience the following
benefits:
(1) Better Selection
By implementing appropriate vendor management in place, your organization can benefit
from a larger selection of vendors, resulting in more choices and ultimately better costs. Your
organization can benefit from a bidding war between vendors while ensuring that you get your
money’s worth.
(2) Better Contract Management
In a multi-vendor scenario, lack of vendor management system elevates the issue of managing
contracts, documentation and other vital information in your organization.
By implementing a proper VMS in place, your organization can benefit from a centralized view
of the current status of all contracts and other useful information which will enable your
organization to achieve better decision-making capabilities and save valuable time.
(3) Better Performance Management
An integrated view of the performance of all the vendors can be achieved through the
implementation of a vendor management system.
This can give your organization a clear understanding of what is working and what is not! This
ultimately leads to improved efficiency, which in turns improves the overall performance of
the organization.
(4) Better Vendor Relationship
It is never easy to manage multiple vendors at the same time. While some vendors may prove
really fruitful, others may not. But managing relationship among the vendors is the key to
successful project completion.
By getting all vendor related information in a single place, you benefit from getting all required
information at once and it can influence your decision-making process, thereby simplifying it!
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(5) Better Value

Ultimately the goal of a vendor management system is to get the most value for your buck.
So, implementation of a vendor management system, when done properly can result in long-
term savings as well as improved earnings over a period of time.
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