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    Wallin - Notes Taken During A Journey Through Part of Northern Arabia, in 1848 - JRGSL 1850

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    Notes Taken during a Journey Through Part of Northern Arabia, in 1848 George Aug. Wallin Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London, Vol. 20 (1850), 293-313+313-344, Stable URL hitp:/flinks.jstor-org/sicisici 166-6235%281850%2920%3C293%3 ANTDAIT%3E2. CO%3B2-5 Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London is currently published by The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) ‘Your use of the ISTOR archive indicates your acceptance of JSTOR’s Terms and Conditions of Use, available at hup:/www,jstororglabout/terms.hml. ISTOR’s Terms and Conditions of Use provides, in part, that unless you have obtained prior permission, you may not download an entire issue of a journal or multiple copies of articles, and you may use content in the JSTOR archive only for your personal, non-commercial use. Please contact the publisher regarding any further use of this work. Publisher contact information may be obtained at hutp:/wwwwjstor.org/journals/rgs.htm] ch copy of any part of'a JSTOR transmission must contain the same copyright notice that appears on the sereen or printed page of such transmission, ISTOR is an independent not-for-profit organization dedicated to creating and preserving a digital archive of scholarly journals. For more information regarding JSTOR, please contact support @ jstor.org. hupulwww jstor.org/ ‘Thu Oct 6 14:05:01 2005 (298) XXL—Notes taken during a Journey through Part of Northern “Arabia, in 1848, By Dr. Geonor Ava. Wau, of Finland.* (ead Apel 22,1850) [Dr. Walln’s orthography of Arabic worl, as offering some fie Tiles for marking the distinetive sounds peculiar to certain letters ant terminal syilables in the Arabic, has been retained in the imameripton of such words throughout ths paper, and that avally opted by the Sotty is sided foreach word in brackets. his has then done et the request of the Publication Committee, 1 wil be seen that Dr, Wallin is enabled very succesflly to Indice the dae ‘iheton in the protunciation of all the letters ai ofthe terminating syllable of wordsendng with silent, according as itis tobesoundet oF é, which leer are to be pronounced nearly as in Taliny oF a Tele broader than in French, with an acute accent; and also” of ‘terminal ye, preceted by fh, by 2, whieh it be pronounced ight fil thouzh broader, yet tmore open than tid d are again detiguished from the hans, rh Ininates words, and. which Dr. Wallin had expresed by its own inark, but which ie here indicated by a. ‘The sound ‘of hamed (hich fr symbol for alt, when it occ inthe grammatial cone Suction of & word, with the fintion of @ consonant), alike the Jnl pact of the wound of jn father, but without the full toma tion being continued, jose asf person should begin to sound the a as itis to be sounded in fathery and then atop the vocal efort by Compressing the larynx, a0 as to produce a sot of eaieh in the trons ‘Tis initial sound la sometimes carried on, but always 20 3 to distingush it by continuing the breathing after the exich Into the sound of the vowel which eueccet hanes. A. person who has heen accustomed to hear Arabie spoken will not ill to appreviate the ready elue which Dr. Wallis sytem affots to these a other Mades of ciference with which the Arabie orthoepy abounds, Tt, ‘of conrse,imponibe to convey t0 8 person wo has no practical ie from experience of the peculiat vocal scheme ofa language & correct fea of fis pronunciation inthe letters of another language. ‘The let= ters of one language in order to express sounds of another must have tie conventional ae Bn ign they ut the now age they are t be used for; aid all the systems of tatscripe tion ithertopropoety when i has een lft othe stant or tr ‘eller himset to make’out the scheme of pronaneaton, by put i own vernacular value upon the letters uso, have utterly fle nalstealy, for literary purposes only, it may be al vey well the letters of the alphabet of one language or of another may then be constituted symbols forthe same thing but half the gens of Jnnguage fs In sound; and it must be saefuctory to all who take Interest in theetologieal aspects under mhich language presents iets to soquite-@ correct knowledge of its iving ora form 33 “= The noes othe paper, marked Wz are by the authors chore marked R, the Revs GC: Renouafd abd hove marked A. by Mr F Agron ” 204 Dr. Wautan’s Route in Northern Arabia. spoken, ws well as ofits silent symbols of words, as written; but, ‘whoever wil beat the trouble of asking a Frenchman who does not Know English to teal English, ora native of Egypt or of Turkey to read Rnglish writen in the Arabic character will be convinced of he jt of the preceting ohnvatons, Yeti soe works ‘where orthoepy as well as correct orthography in transcription i Bimed at, we ste fold that the consonants In -Arablee with two or three exceptions, have exactly the ame sound asin English, «. 9 in’ Salling Directions forthe Red Seay 1841" p. 224, The Fevers af ths proposition is exactly true. ‘THis book ls, of eoure, special reference to the mimes of the Arabian porta in the Red Seay anti teas important to enable navigators al travellers to call them Fightly- Tek stated In the scheme. of pronunciation, p. 226, that ‘ea, dé, and ef are merely to be ebneiderel a x dd and ‘d,and t standing as the representatives of tiny di and ta, respec: ively. ‘The two sets of sounds are quite distinct with the Arabs, although they may be confounded by the ‘Turks and Persians, Sin, ‘il, and tay are pronounced onthe palate, close to the tethy while ther Kindred eerebrale gid, &, are pronouncal quitest the back of she palit; ante ies any car ery are re (Geo on these pots, anon the ham, the Grammars of Catssin de Perceval, Pate, 1833 ; and of Herb, Paris, 16035, ‘ot Lee, and of De Suey.) "Generally speaking, s0 great isthe come fasion and fnconventence, for purpotes of eritical reference, of a ‘mere roman (ratseripton ofeastert names and words, that although that mole of tanseription alone ftom vant of typographical fi ies, finds a place here, geographical travellers eannot be to fedulots and attentive in procuring of all such names and words a3 they may have to record, the right and vernacular transcrip in the Chats fhe language fo wh thy og. ‘Dr. Walls’ aysten te ae follows.” For the Society's vol. vi p. 51 (1886), may be referrel 0 ‘Taking the usual onder of the Arabic alplabet,—A, By , Th, G, 1 Kd, De Dh, By Z, 8, Bh, $B, 'T, Dby * Gh, 8 ig Ky TM, 8, W, it, Y. pennies $= afin pat oe foro Storia te pec y i nthe feminine term tation the ft is to be pronounce, the sgn "is preserved, Invoner to distinguish it from ei, "the third leer of the alphabet aw — iw preceded by fath; and which may be pronounced ss “nein crow accoting to the oli prouuneation or as aw in ‘ral, accorling to the moder (See, but qu. whether not father aso in on?) co Wei pred iy dam, rosa xcly a8 i ‘ei precede by fa, pronounced as Tae olen pronuaiion seat aight if preceded by fat i pike, oF according: Dr. Wattin's Route in Northern Arabia. 295 A = yei preceded by ki y= yei with shaddi’ & doubled, a ante — fat. wm dammé, pronounced as win put nat — 9 a8 in yet, if pre cede by another #, or by au d, or if followed by an a oF ana}j—A. I uerr Kahind (Kéhirah) towards the close of the year 1847, and following the road which leads a Tittle above the town of Suveis™ (Stiweis), aeross the tidal fats at the extreme head of the Gulf of Soweis, and thence along the western shore of the Sind (Sind) peninsula, after a journey of 8 days T arrived at a ‘Toor (Tir). As al-Toor (Tar) is a port at which vessels navi gating this gulf of the Red Sea seldom fail to touch, T hail cal folate upon readily procuring a passage acros foi it 0 int on the neighbouring coast of Arabia ;t but it happened to the period of retun of the Egyptian hiiga t (hj) from Mekks (Mekkah), and I found, in consequence, that any of the usual trading vessels between Bgypt and al-Highz (Hijé2) which would arrive at al-Toor (Tir) were expected from the south, and that several weeks might elapse before one would. leave Suweis bound for the Arabian coast; L therefore determined, after some days’ fruitless stay in al-Toor (Tir), to proceed. by land along the southern shore of the peninsula, as far as’al-Sharm, between thich place and Arabia Thad been assured by the Bedouins of the neighbourhood of al~Toor that there was a constant communi= cation by sea. “I reached al-Sharm in 24 days, and was then told by the fishermen living there that the Bayptian pilgeim-karawin having been reported. to have reached Muveilah on its way home, all the boats belonging to the Bedooins of this coast were on that side of the gulf, excepting one expected from the Egyptian shore, with provisions for the pilgrims. Towards midnight this boat came in} but its master, being aftaid of reaching Muweilah too Tate for the karawan, landed here for a few minutes only, and continued his voyage without my hearing of his arrival before the following morning. ‘Thus, again disappointed, and not feeling inclined to make the long eireuit of the Gulf of Akabé CAKabah), Thad no other alternative than to wait forthe first returning boat : so resigning myself to necessity, I took up my abode with two Bedouin fishermen of the Mureiné (Mustineh) Arata, on the 4 Hiei entaa te not eomdered prope jurtof Are i tatd ofthe Arto Comer fea ‘atts The Avian Namco he sounty he both of the Hes between he tears af ie Arabian Gut tealledy believe, “Bare alToot Sin the desert OF Mount Sigal or perhaps, more correctly, * the land of Most Sin "Pipe karan Ae ma 296 Dr. Watsan’s Route in Northern Arabia, pen plain, without even the shelter of a house or tent. ‘The ‘Arabs here give the same of al-Sharm (in the plural al-Shuroom, Shari) to the whole tract of coast extending fom Ras Mubam: med to a. point, not very well determined, fo the N. of Wadi Murari (Wadi Aura), aeanly inthe latitude of Gaba Moos" (Gebel Misa, in allusion, posibly, to the frequent indentations OF the shoreline, as Sharma signifies a fesure, aid thence & bay of eee in the seashore, Ina stricter sense they confine the tse ofthe term to-a small barren plain of saline efusty sand (Araby Subkhy, or Subakh, Sabah), eoutiguous to the to babourey which” chiedy mark the place” "This plain is shut in to. the N. by a low range of sandstone hilis, ant bounded on the S. by the rocky shore. At the fot of the ils there isa well of brackish, rrater.. ‘The harbours are formed by tho sea shooting wp through Tarrow entrances into two land-ocked basing. OF these harbours the western affords good and safe accommodation for the larger class of Arab vessels andthe eastern forthe smaller boats of the Badouins On the E. side of the former there is a buldiog dedicated wo Musi sane (Waly and ghrp on the pli solar sll stones nhc wa tol aman foals oor (ir) ocasionally takes up bs residence for dhe purpove of trad~ {ricki yele Cocing Here, ‘Nem inthe clr of epi, bbobmeen the to harbours grows a solitary date-trey under the scanty shade of which small partes of Bedouin or of Arab boat= fen may bo sometimes son preparing their frugal meal, or inz "in a short repose during the noonday heat, On account water, andthe security of its harbours, al-Sharm is much frequented, and vessels usually endeavour to make it their lace of ight-anchorage, specially when bound northwards WAS toon as.a vessel fy deseried in the ofing, one of the fiher= amen established here entries the news to hie brethren ofthe M sing (Muaeineh) tbe, eho are generally eneamped in the Wadi al "Ady (Widi’Adt), at a distance of about 5 tfrom the coast ‘n receipt of the intelligence, some of the tribe forthwith repait on their eamels to al-Sharim in one, as they aay, to * go down fd oe what God i et tomes sal ons exacted from every vessel anchoring here, and. generally paid in grain or rice, tho Bedooins hope to find on board pilghims or Sther pamengers, who, tired ofa sea voyage which may have Tasted 40 or 80 days, tan be induead to hire their camels * According to memorandam by Captain Morey (whore hydrosraphical labours ta teed Soa area ouour fo il counleyy a Une tweens Beck the convent of Mount Sia ander date the 14h of Febuary, 163i te atte of {he sum of Mount Sit (Gaal Moos) ie asta 0" NA, “{'Forn fhrther acount ofthese larbour se © Wellies Observations, Jourval ofthe Royal Geographical Society" vol ve (18a), plo Dr. Wantay’s Route in Northern Arabia. 207 continue the journey to Suweis (Suwsis) or to Kahirg (Kireh) bya “ie fre, ining the prt ake poo ‘wet of edooin origin, who, having loc tir flocks and camels by some of the variou ‘accidents to which the nomadic life expoves them, have been obliged to give up the desert and resort to the sen for subsistence, ‘They depend almost exclusively upon fh for their Sustenance ; and their only chances of varying their fare are when ey are rewarded for thelr trips to Wadrat’ Aat (Wadi A with corn ori ye Mine Man ke owen they ean exchange thelr fi with the people of the boats visting them, for bread and rice. ‘Their fing apparatus is the hook and ‘ine, ‘They manufacture their hooks themselves out of a nail or other scrap of iron they may happen to posses, and ob tain ‘their Tins by barter from the passing. boatmen’ but the abundance of fish in the adjacent set, and. their own skill in catching thom, make up ina great measure for thir want of better tackle ‘Many of their nomadic brethren of the Sina (Sixé) Mountains and of the Hetsim (Hletcim)® tribe, some families of which had this year passed over to the opposite island of Tairan (Tein), also posses boats, in which they carry on a small trade betweet the poninsula and the coasts of Arabia and Egypt the latter shove they know only as the Barr-al-'Agamt CAgam), a name probably applied by the Arabs to Egypt, from their considering it fs the land of a people not of Arabian origin, and therefore bare arous as compared with themselves» From the Eayptian shore thoy bring wheat and millet, dhoord + (dha), partly for satisy= ing the wants of their own families, but principaly for supplying {He ama twas andthe Bedouin song rain coat yf down as Al-Wegh (Wejh), beyond which they seldom southwards » * nw "At the season of the Egyptian karawins to and from Mekkié (Beka), their wade becomes very active in the places where the Karawan is accustomed to halt for the night, or for afew days; they then attend. at sch places with provisions of all kinds, and take in exchange for them cafes, apes, clothing, weapons, or whatever clse the pilgyims may havo to part with, Tt waa with a view of profiting By this sort of trafic that the Bedooins of the Peninsula had now gone over in their boats, as T have already aentioned, to met the returning karawan at ‘Muvellah. ix days bad tarvied here in the company of the ten Bedooin ‘some quite naked, others in rags forming the whole * Hetym in Burckhardt Notes on the Bellas wo p. 386 (14). A. 4 Tat the foreign land; "Again hae the sgutention of the Lats word “rtaras” sod iw oleetiee enee= foreigners, or whoever are not Artin” A "Sorgham saceharatur, or algare 298 Dr. Watsay’s Route in Northern Arabia. population of AU-Sharm, when the first boot retumed from the Knubian side; it belonged to a Bodooin of the Beni "Ukbi (Bent *Ukbah), sho, for some years, had been living with the Muzeiné (Muzcinch) Arabs inthe Sint mountains. As toon as he landed he drew up bis small bark ou the beach and: began to dismantle it, with the tention of leaving iti the care of the fishermen and going bimsl? to vst hiv family in the Watial’ Ade (Wadlele rAd), After much persnasion, and tho offer of @ comparatively Jarge fare [prevailed on him t0 launch his boat aguin, and return vid me to Muweilah (Maweilah’, which be had just ef. We fet ail on these oven an aed he nd of Tein during the night. On the following morning we were overtaken at sca by « heavy squall from the west, which compelled us to feck ehelter under the island of Shooshwé (Shishweh), in an unsafe anchorage between coral reef, where we remained for some hours, then the wind tuddenly veered. round to N.N.W., and partially Taid the heavy sea. We then left our place of refuge and fetched the island of Barakin, where wo pasced the right. On the fol= lowing day we continued our voyage by the small ‘sland of ‘Yaboo'a (Yabi’a) and arzived at Nw about noob. "Muwellah is dependent upon che Egyptian goveroment, and is ane of the more “important of the places on the road’ of the Egyptian pilgrims to Al-Hignz (Ijaz) Like other principal stations on the pilgrim karawan routes, it contains a castle (arab. Half) and a few-stone houses, ‘The castle of Maweilah is gar- rikoned by Egyptian troops, and the houses. are tenanted by the ‘offcors and dependents of the garrison. ‘The remaining iba Uitants, who are emall traders and members of reduced Hedooin (Bedovin) families, content themselves with tomporary hus ealled Dakar (balie}—plr bakdkir (bakabir), made-of the branches and covered with te leaves of the date-pain ‘Tho garsion may berestimated at forty persons, and the other inhabitants at fom seventy to eighty fami "The cactles on this andthe Syrian pilgsimeroute are nearly all similar in construction, althougi differing in size they were pro iubly built hy the Turkish Sulténs for the protection and supply of te pilgrims, and to guard the wells which they generally incon, fd algo to defend the inbabitants of the tovn-around their walla Against the incursions of predatory parties of Bedoois. But the sprit and boldness of the Araby baving been much repressed ify the late Pashde, the ‘Turkish government. in its latolence ts neglected to. repair. these casey, an lhough ogially ftrong and easly defensible they are now falling rapidly into decay. “Phe Bedooins, who only resort to Muweilah as a place of longer or shorter provconal arate, and dwell in the before-mentioned Dr. Watsan’s Route in Northern Arabia. 299 buts or bakikiy or in thir own tents brought with them, are poor individuals and fanlies whom umprosperon circumstances Fave forced to leave, fora time, the desert, to-shich they generally return ao soon ag they can. A few of them, however, become far attached to Ting in a town as to setle here permanently; those who can command the meansy then compete ith the people of thecal and others fom Egypt, and with passing merchants in the trade they all eary on withthe Bedooin of the surrunding Country, and wit the eater places on both sides of the Rel Sea ‘Thus Sowell is of eosilerable importance to the neighboaring Balocin, a8 being the nearest and often the only place mere they can obtain their suplies in, exchange for thet focke and tal or, thewo lat failing, sometines on credit, a¢ happened in the ease of one of the chief clans of the Mavize (Ma'azeh) tribe, which during iy stay here, was supplied by the steward of tho Ce ant of te apn great wih a com ‘on ered, tothe amount of 1500 Spanish dollars ‘Thers’is 10. avehorage at Muvella, except in an ineecure roadstead, behind eoral eel, which are st some distance from the Shores and itis consequently seldom visited by larger rescl than those sent by tho Egyptian government withthe provisions forthe caste from Keir and supplies generally are tuch dearer here than at al-Wegth (Weft); om account of thiy aid rom n fncied fuperonty inthe bardnwse and quality of the Syrian grainy the Bsns fr gett spin fn liad (Guan state of warfare in the desert and the difielty of faiog pase furage do not prevent. them from ging s0 firs Many sf the Fnhabitants of Muweilah have gardens and. platations of date: trees larger and bettorcutated than tse fn other places along this road fo Mekki (Mekkahy Water at Mueilay though not alwaye god, is abmvantly supplied by numerous sallow wells in tnd around the town. Sprnga, yielding a tepid and brackish mater occur algog the whole of this coats at a slight depth below tho sietice of the ground, even clove tothe high watermark, At Muselay an, to some extent, throng the northwestern pat of Arabia’ rain filly at intervals fom October to Apel. During the remaiving months the weather is hot and dry “As every lage and town in Arabia i considered by the Arabs a belonging to come particular tribe, Muwellah is elafmed by the Bent “Usba CUbbab}y who are novally encamped nits nei tourhood; they are eiled the sentinels >of the place, and claim a right of preference to other tribes forthe escort and eauveyance of the pilgrims. between Beda (Beda), some hours. south. of “Akabi,and oba (Dh) known als by the nate of Bir Sultfny © Ghat, oF more correlly Khufrk,—W, Protector? 300 Dr. Wataaw’s Route in Northern Arabia. (Biru-I-Sultén), which two places are considered as marking the boundaries of the land of the Bent ’Ukbé (Bent "Ukbah. ‘The Bedooins here, as in the other places under the Egyptian government, although the rightfol Arabian inhabitants of the town, have no share in the administration of its affairs ; while, in the towns on the Syrian road, their full rights have been ‘preserved to them. ‘There alo, as thoughout the greater part of Arabia the primitive and time-sanctioned nomad lic laws and customs of the desert are observed but here the system of Islam juripra- dence is established and administered by Turkish ofe’s Finding no mention made of Muwelleh{ in the Arabic mana: scripts witch L have been able to consult nor any traces or ta- ditions among the existing generation in the land, pointing to a i antiait, Lam inclined to consider it as a tow of, medern origin, owing its existence to the circumstance of its site being on aout of he Egatian prin bra ‘The Bent "Ukbi pretend to have been, in ancient times, a great ‘and powerful tribe, possessing all the land from Shima (Shama) to Dama (Dama), the former of which names signifies the Syrian desert, and the latter a valley, still so called, lying between Dhobé and Istabl "Antar. At the commencement of Islim (Islim) they say the tribe was divided into two large subdivisions, the Musilimé (Musélimeh) and the Beni Amr (’Amru), both derived from a common ancestor, named Ma'roof (Ma’rdf). ‘Domestic feuds between the sheikh of the Benj, "Amr (’Amruj and his wife Ayeila(Ayeilah, sister of "Aly the son of al-Negat (Nejdi), the chief of the other clan, arose, which terminated in the expulsion of the Beni "Amr (Benf Amru) by the Musilimé (Bisel) fom the neighbourhood of Melly and their ing competed fo sek rfoge mh the Hogi (136) tie about Tafilé (‘Tafileh), with whom they have ever since formed one tribe; but they still retain their animosity towards their kindred. flan of al-Musalimé (Musaimeh). Other clans and fumes of this formerly numerous tribe hare passed over ito the north of Aen; oer againy bave mixed with tho Egyptian fella til the Beni "Ukbd of the present day have dwindled down to about fonty oF fifty tents in the neighbourhood of Muwelah. The, more distant and northerly parte of the county, originally occupied by them, have been appropriated by the mudern ail ad¥ensinus but frer incoming tribe of Huw Tn the book of al-Kalkashendy } I find the following notice given * Se Appendix p 310A. +f Mawetlah isthe Phasicnin Oppidam of Ptolemy. «5 (D'Anvillo.—A, E (AbKathashendy) his hgok vated NhagatweAtsh ftom tt al “arab.” Thescope of what i nersary fr a Koowlatge of the Arab fibess— Nev 7350 ofthe Bre Ma MSS. A Dr. Wanatw’s Route in Northern Arabia, 301 of thie tibe: “Benoo ’Ukbs (Bend "Ukbah), are descendants of Gadhim of the Kahtiniyé (Kahtétiyeh)Al-Hamdany (Hamdéni) says: * they are the sons of Ukba (‘Ukbah), son of Magia ton of Hora (foi) The author of AleThar sayeth land ‘exten fom l-Karak to al-Azlay n ale eax (Hljéz), and they are bound to secure the road. between Egypt and Medind (Medinah) and. as far ao Ghazaé (Ghazzsh), in Syria” ‘The author of AU-Mectlikucl-Absir* says: “it is, incumbent. upon. them to conduct the ‘Egyptian pilgrims from alAkaia CAkabah) to Al-Dima(al-Démg)? ‘The same author continues, and of then-are the Benoo Was al? Uhbay ie. the children of Wail son of UkbA in al-igaz (Ijaz) The author of alTbar says likewise, “ and in Afrika (Affisyah), in the wet (alm, hee are ome of the a well af he heighbourhood of Terabloos (erabulés, ‘Tripoli, in Afiien)” ‘The seme author mentions“ the Bent Wail (Bent Was), whove abodes are in Egypt, as a branch of the Benoo "Ukbi,t so Magra of Guahim, of ie Kannan a a reported to say that a pert of chem live sn Agi (Aj6) and Sel (Bins, the oe moaned of ee oly plage whi E niet with the Bent Wasil wae in a-Sharm of the Sioh peninsula, whore two of the fishermen I. hive mentioned said that they Tclonged to that tribe, and. used to enterain me with stories of the former grandeur of thee ancestors. Inthe mountains of Tay, jnGabal (Jabal) Shamma, dd not bappen to hea of them, ‘The land inthis part of Arabi, Between the sea and the chain of granitic motntalns which rune parallel wth the coast aan average distance of 8 hours on foot (24 miles) from the beac is Known by the general name of Al-Sihil (Shil—te shore) and, excepting onthe more beach, the whole ie inteceted by valleys running down from the main a soulbevestery dive One of the largest of these valleys is named Wadi Surr (Wit Stim), and extends from Gabal Shar (Jabal Shir) of the main range, to Muweilab, Tt contains a copious well from which the Inhabitants derive iheir supply of drinking water. Another of these valleys about 6 hours (18 miles) N-of Muweiay is called Wadi Tiriam (Wa Tiryam) ; int ae situated the wells known as al"Uyoon (al-Uytin.e, the Springs), where the pilgrims thd frst night after Weaving ‘Muwetiah, on their way to Egypt. To the Se between Dhobs (Dhoba) and Tstabl’Antan isWaat Dama (Waei Dama); and, nearer (query to the Sof Tnghl “Amiar?) to Woah (Web, Wad Fer” (Wad Fons), ail Wad! Azlom.. Allethese valleys, however, as well a5 the Smaller ones contiguous to the foob af the chal, are Faber open + The woys ogi T ia Ua he Mteot tne 302 Dr. Wauuan's Route in Northern Arabia. undulating plains of soft sand, than narrow, weledefined depres Sion separated by distinct lines of illx "The mountain hein, twhieh Thave. destribedas shutting in ag-Sahil (a-Sehil) on its astern sidey is cally init course from (Weft) to Waa Lith, «cree valley opening through the chen ft about 8 hours (24 tiles) Ne of “Atabi CAhabah), by the enoral nam of Gil alShafia. (Jibslarsa-Shel) or G slum (Jibalorttahamal). Its contimuation N-ot Wadi Lith unit it jou the mountains of Syria, takes the name of Gibal Storia (Gibdlueb-ehirs), ‘The highest peaks of the, chain about Muwrilah are Gabal Shir (Jabal Shir) already mentioned, and, N. of i, Umm Gudeilé(Jadeieh) and Giinm (Simm), and Sade, and Harb. The sil of te Salil generally poor, affording aly» scanty pasture, but it produces ia abundance the acaciag called Samu ani Styal The former elds a gum inferior in ality to that of aleHigiz (Hija), and he later plenty of wood iirbaruing into charcoal. The Bedooins dispose of thove articles ft Muwella or at Sumeis, and sometimes even in Kahirg Kaira). (sien tho Bent UKbi (Bent Uk) Bedsins in the imme diate neighbourhood of Muveila, this and is eluest everywhere inhabited by the Huweitt Arabs, one of the largest tribe of the day, and spreading from above Pete, or ‘Waal ‘Moors, (Wadi Mba, along the coast to al-Wegh (Wejh), amd partly iio the mourfains ot the Ey and eccopying alo mary dite tn Egypt, They are looked down upon by her tribes es mixed Bedoors sprang trom fellas (husbandzten, not of pure nomadic origi tin are held as ona par with the despised tbo of Hts, nick hanod Nutapat-het) (Nutatweteity or “the, Wallelimbers™ ‘The prnepal Huweltt clans delling inthis land are, Dakihat (avikiosUmrat (Uneaty"Umran, and "Tatikat CTabtkat, write lat regarded by some as the noblest. clan of the trib, by others asa separate tribe-and who usally rovein and about Wa iam (Wai Tiryam) and up as far-as "Akaba. CAKubad) *Ubeyat CUbeyat), Gerdfin ersfin) Suletmin (Sueimin), Musee Time (Mrusilimth) Ureinat (Urenat, Sughayin (Sughayiny and Sharman, who froquent the distets & of Mumeon and. tovards Teabl Antar; and Meshal (Meshibit) and. Kor'an (Koran), tito confine themselves to Wadi Alaty at th> base of Gabat posite to. al-W Tre gies the oom an pronucngn of e ame a ec seins mer anrnaraes tr ea Ratan OASr er een Wp Acta ty mine septa Ung. Fol Flr Ara. cal ee Peete Een ie Amb ctl Tsu; Day de Tee, ATI eueSe RON nein, hata Ma es sated ald cal Dr, Wattas's Route in Northern Arabia. 303 Saweyid, and the district about al-Wegh (Wejh). ‘The Huweitat give the uame of Reishy (Reish to the ancestor of their tribe, but in the Arab genealogies which 1 had an opportunity of seeing I couldnt find any noice at Teast any direct notice, either of iim or of his descendants. Besides the Huweitit, there is also a small tribe called al- Messi“id (al Messi’), who represent themselves as, having criginally come from a’ valley named Wadi Lif, in al-Yama they usually reside in the vicinity of Makna,* a place cons of an asveaiblage, as was told, of date-treo huts (bat) two 'S. of Akaba (Akabab). Extensive date plantations, belonging to the Bent "Ukbi (Beni "Ukbah), and other Bedooins of the surrounding country, are cultivated at Maknd, along a stream of running water, by a tribe of nomadie fellas called. al-Fawaide (Fawaydch, who, in the same manner as tre Gabaliyé (Jabaliych) in the Stat mountains, associate themselves withthe Bolooin owners of the plantations, find receive for their labour and care in eultivaing them a certain Proportion of the dates annually produced. At the season when {he fruit i ripe the owners ssorNe hereto gather ther respective rope; and, as at the same time & sort of ir is guing oo, the apie of tang and barging seldom fi aac om Femoter districts many Arabs who have no inferest in the plantar fone. On the 20th of February, 1818, [left Mfuwelaly in company aie with aman of the Bent "Ukba tbe. Our way lay over the Feb 20. rile sandy plain ofthe shore, nearly along the pilgritn roa, for one hour, when we entered a fat valley bearing slight vegetation, Cad Baie (ia Hafan how arvana Stone hill or rather irregular billocs, and masses of eonglome- Tate, such asa tsually found atthe foot ofa chan of mountains, fommenced, We continued our course towards the NE through gently ascending valleys between hills of similar character. but Somewhat darker in colour, and becoming, gradually higher, until, we arrived at the tents of my guide and his clan, ater a journey OF hus fom Mwah Jn the 2ist we resumed our journey in the company of the Fek 2. sole cin the tener of wih fad evided upon moving fom he place they occupied on the previous day. "Passing throu cal yall} called Wotwi CWeyy we eatere' a lager oe the Wadi Sadr, which, formed by the accession of various ravines fn smal wey ening down fo betwee the peas ofthe tain chain, gradually expands into an open plain along its fot, ‘The ravines in the mountains ate steep and rugged, but afford plonty of water and contain some date-trees, which belong 1s, Feb, Feb 25. 304 De, Wauaan’s Rowe in Northern Arabia. Beni ’Ukbs., ‘The soil of the plain is that clean, soft sand called nafood (nofidh), and which an Arab never ceases to Took upon ih rotileton, from its comttting, in his iden, the, propor clement of his own and his forefathers’ and. Wd Sadr, being also ‘one of the most fertile spots in as-Sail, is a favourite dwelling lace with the Arabs here; and, as soon as we came in sight of its yellow plain, all the women of the clan exclaimed with evident delight, “ God be praised that we see the mufood again.” We crossed the plain of Sadr in a N.N.E. direction, towards the peak of Gaba Harb; bata we readily accepted the endl invitations proffered fo us from the tents we continually passed on our way, ve were a god detl delayed, andthe sun hd et upon us before wre reached the mountain after an actual time of march from ‘Weiwi of 3 hours, We vere welcomed with coffee and supper by the Huweitt branch of the "Umeinit (’Umeirit), although, ‘ly two’ days before, they had been plundered by « hostile elan of the Ma’azé (Ma’szeh)., As is often the case, in the spring, with the poorer Bedouins in Arabia, our hosts had no tents 0 shelter us from a strong and cold S.E. wind which swept with violence down Gabal Harb. ‘This wind, I was told, blows here at regular intervals of about seven days. ’It rises after sunset, and continues during the night, but is succeeded in the day-time by a southerly breeze. It is quite a local wind, seldom extending, ‘beyond the land at the foot of the chain, and rarely reaching the sea ‘On the 22nd we continued our way for a short distance through Wisi Sadr, along the foot of Gabal Harb, the high and. steep flank of which tums here at an oblique angie to the E.N.E., and gives rise to a wide opening through the main chain. "After a march of Lh. 10m. we began to penetrate the ragged defies of the interior of the chain. ‘The first valley we entered was called at-Kabnlg (Kabel, and took 1h, 20 m. to pas Tt farther continuation to the N-E. assumes the name of al-Huleikié. Tt wr 2h. 20m, to a defile called Nakb* al- : 20m. more we had sed the. summit jewended into an open, Eroular plain called al-Sumeihs: Savoia. " ‘On the 25th we crossed the Wadi Suweiki in 2b, to a lower range of hills on its SS.E. border, and entered another valley called al-Murcihé: (Murcibah), which we traversed in Th. 45m. From that, place a march of 1h, 10m, through a pass called Deikét{_al-Se'lool (Dhaikatu-eSe'hil) brought us to Wadi Sa- ‘wawin (Sawiwin), a more regularly defined valley sloping rapidly to the WS.W. “Our course to-day hind heen fnvarinbly SS.E. Anglci, a mountain path—A. Anis, narrow pas or ersit—A Dr. Watatn's Route in Northern Arabia, 305 Dut, from this place, we tumed again to the NLE., and following a dificult track along the bottom of the valley, which is much encumbered with huge stones and detritus from the adjacent rocks, passed the night in the tents of the Tugara (Tujara) Bedooins of the Ma’azé (Ma’ézeh) tribe On the 26th we continued our way for 24h. up this valley to ists. its head, at Nakb al-Sawawin (Nakbu-s-Sawawin), a very steep Fe defile, which we were Uh. in ascending, AAs the summit level we had now reached is on the ridge which separates the valleys and winter torrents running towards the Red Sea from those taking the opposite direction towards the interior ofthe desery those. heights form the natal. busier between two distinct portions of Arabia ; I will therefore here make a few observations on the tract wo hail lately traversed. Being in the interior part of & mountain range it cons of regpttas ils and valleys. mogul succeeding each other, wing sometimes a surface of naked rock, at others of loose san} with a vegetation similar to that of the Sahil, but in which trees abound more than-shrubs and herbage. ‘The valleys are covered with stones and rabbish derived from the disintegrating rocks of the range ; and the whole presents a gloomy, desolate aspect ‘of ruinand devastation. ‘The mouotains of the chain on the coast side are exclusively granitic; but further eastward, in the interior of the chain, dark brown sandstone succeeds. Excepting a few date and almond trees in certain parts of the mountains, the tree most generally seemis the acacia. ‘All this land, commencing at the brow of the mountains towards the shore, and extending over the hilly tract of the interior ofthe chan, i called al“Tahima* have not found any direct notice of the tract in Arabic works, except in the Kamoos (Simis) of Firdzabadi, where alTahims is stated to. signify ft land sloping towards the ea” an is disinguised from the low land called al-Tihdma (Tihémah), which, by most of the Arabian geographers, is assumed to be the southern part of al- Higiz. It is well known that the lines of demarcation, by which the Arabian geographers define the limits of the different portions of Arabia, are discrepant and vague, and in many instances at variance with the boundaries assigned to them at the present day. ‘Thus, for instance, according tothe opinion of al-Madainy (adopted also by M. Cause de Perceval, in bis late excellent worky sea sur "Histoire des Arabes avant I'Islamisme), al-Iligaz (Higtz) Js a general pame for the whole of the mountain bain which cestends from Yaman (Yemen), along the coast of the Red Sea, up to Syria ; and, according to'al-Wakidy (Waki), only for the * Invariably o spelt and pronounced by the present inbabitanta—W, 306 Dr. Wauuin’s Route in Northern Arabia. land between al-Meding (Medinah) and ebook (Lebsik). Ton Ayis gives to the chain the name of Shera (Sheri) through its whole ‘extent; and Iwas myself told by a Bedooin from ‘Tait (Tayit) that the inhabitants of that town eal Tihimé (Tihdmah) what other Arabs call Higaz (Hijiz). The present inbabitants of al~ahams divide the mountainous land connected with i ito three disnet diticts, namely, al-Higaz (Iijéz)* al-Tahims (Taamah), and al-Sher Stor) Ale deeen om Tat (léyif) to Medina (Meditah) (both of which towns the Arabian geographers generally are Agreed upon excluding from al-Higaz (Hijiz) ), and thence to Up, may be regarded asthe eastern boundary of ale Higaz (Hiji2); and from al-Hig, ifthe line be continued north= ‘wari, along the course of the eastern parts of the Shefa chain, as far as Wadi Lithm, it will mark the eastern limit of the land to which the Bedooins now give the name of al-'ahimé (al-Tahamah)) —probably in allusion, from the original signification of the word, to the unhealthy and’ oppressive atmosphere of a low country ‘enclosed by mountains, in opposition to the salubrious air of the open region of Negd* (Nejd}. Whether the sea, or the western verge of the mountain chain, is to be considered as the western Doundary of the Tahiimé (Tahamah), is of little consequence 5 but in the present day, in and about Muweilah, the land aloug. the seashore is known by no other name than that of al-Sabil. From Wadi Lithm to Syria T have never heard the mountains called otherwise than already mentioned,t namely, Gibil al-Sheriia (ibalu sh-Shirsh). Comparing the statements by the Arabian authors with the division of the region by its present inhabitants, T think that al-lJigaz (Iijéz), which divides the upper country from the sea, “alTihdma’ (Tibdmah), which I would jlentify with al-Tahimé*), and al-Sheri—were originally specific naimes for parts of this region, and. that they have heen extended by different authors to the whole of it. ‘Two observations regand- ing tho physical characteristics of Negd (Neji), and of al-Tibimé (Tiidmah}, and al-Higiz (Hijaz), which some of the Arabian ruthors have made, seem to me to support this opinion : the one fs, that the valleys of al-Tihama (Tiimeh) descend westward towards the sea, and those of Negd (Nejd) eastwards towards the interior :” and.'the other, which has, reference to the flora, that “the land which produces Samur,t ‘Talb,§ and Asal || trees, is See note % p20 4 Soe pmo Inga f Acscln gomitra, Caillat, Voy, Mer valei. pebll; Fork, Flor Athy peenaives Deere Tg, to pi, Noid A Ul Species of Asada eve — Dr. Wanay’s Route in Northern Arabia. 307 ‘Tibmné (Tihdmah), and that where the shrub called Ghada grows is Noga (Nejd).” ‘These two assertions, the correctness of which, with a very few exceptions, my own observation of the eountry, 50 far as St extended, confined, would, in respect of topographical features and vegetation, identify the Sabjil oF coast land with al- Higéz (Iijaz) and al-Fabimd, in contradistinetion to Negd." * Tokina ot Tikimam—Hae Arabi rego ab ocean. Mave Rubra special: ‘urubascoteris rpiones Hogior ct Yemea& Micra uagus Adon excerrens Tham sutra wins veroentn ltr, wade opin he nomen ula fart fo ove depen ai eva ptt. Dict oe quan ay Nl {iki Higa des of Van, ta Neyd vel Tehtne rejlonum Hin! tol Tone Sout vam x ho et lor vel homo prt: sie ud ae mate tLe au Thana —Tve xin of Ai on he wot es th To Sy on ting and Tosa of Ae tent a Sa moe iting Be Ue a a SOE, Ate Mw ep eh et ee eat et eat Mga tla to ral in ae ta Sema ean lc Med i Theat ae Seatac atone ety ston Fate rai See re eee Rn nae ca te Saleen . Be rae Arta" Tso rand oR eng oe teed amen TH ra ae wy in Gay sada anaes anh a ie Dat premecn or ane ael e ohala arama a A aa, athe th co ee a at ad Foe et al ana Sathana pay Sa is Nh fan lcs a ld ee eee ta Siu eet ie Rinse easttene tn op PENS lade tie eect at eas Pat he ot hr aac oh aah idee rl ean nae Smith ap re pe rae eel ae cee ete fen a Eo eae trees ene Soe eae a ce ae oc ayfok ee a SaaS anaes cae tein ae tid Se ee Mes teed roc eg Teen ee yet whan, tt onesie cli os anette a Rit Sa i ots el Sa trina a tan Sas Beet aTe seme oa Satie gana aa, ime at where formed a gutaral va poorioa ofthe rake dive to ges, Arabia, stit® sump, divditr ab ot Taman a ey tind Ne 308 De. Wanutn's Route in Northern Arabia. Al-Tubiina, in that part of it which Ties between Muwilalh and “Akabé, is inhabited by various clans of Huweitat and Ma'azé 5 the former occupying the lower districts near al-Sabil, and the latter the more elevated, whence they oveasionally pass over to the plains ofthe interior. Thov resume the course of my route, in which we paused upon the summit of Nakb al-Saviwin (Nakbu-s-Sawdwin), From the summit ofthis pass the land slopes towards the interior of the de serts but both in this and the Shera chain the eastern descent is as gentle and insensible as the western is abrapt and rapid, and would be scarcely perceptible but for the direction of the winter torrents. We descended first into a valley called Wadi Rawia (Wadi Rawiyan), and, following its downward course in an E.S.E. direction for 1h., turned to our left, and entered the land called al-Ifisima (Hlisma), a vast plain of the soft and comparatively fertile sand before mentioned,® and of which the Nufood (Nufidh) desert of Negd (Nejd) for the most part consists. This plain ex- tens bubreen Matin (Ma'é) onthe N- and Tebook (Tebit) on the S, from al-Tahamé on the W. to the Syrian pilgrim road on the E.3 and continues to the N.E. under various names, with artial interruptions from rocky and stony patches, til it joins the Nufood (Nufudh) lands of Wadi Sishan (Wai Sirhén) and the Dabi or Nufoodt (Nufudh) desert. ‘The southern boundary of this plan is formed by the steop front of a lateral chain of hills called Gibal al-Harrd, which branches out at an acute angle from te Shefi chain, opposite to the peak of Gabal Shar (Jabal Shir), and advances in a norti-easterly direction tll it gradually sinks Yandnd sive “Aro (Yemen, Higis, Tehama, Nejc enawam, sve Aare) gues posal Ben ke sea wee i Teadim, Pe Habylontam, “Replouem Yemen h sopentione ermfont (Nerds) Ne- iran, jter moses ppd, quod eet sede et mctroplt (Sad) 8 Sr°2 fet ulerom fUoerey habeas Iastudinem graduum Sixt item aed (2alt) anon og Maat x grades rl Mar Pris se adi, antquamn erporiams Orsi, Pricmss quoqee cog." ati eabserved that Hal i ot staal near the Pera Gui t Tied Sena 10°89" N . SCitigds Hine Arabia pars inter Tehama ct Negeam ta dca com sal fort eriprornt omseaa iden fagacet eahaoma) ead arom eb ated ‘Grint; vey ii vole (linana Utigaat bee Gib) quod eligata et conartte ‘menue Magata eam duo ott; emo eam, que (wana) impede ce (shad) {alld comtringere.” Hegioorm hane quoque ternat at borat Ataba deta, ‘Goam ile BaletclSdm) deer sive campos Syrice eect p. 5 CALNend) Nei eu Nepd Vox hee Arai. cram nota eminentionem 5 oy pooliarter Arabi gatcn gppoat salam’ Tila, qu et (a: Ghor) gaat ‘uct dia eet peralizts hme montom goon iterjacet stem Negsia Steeple Lema, femem Hig, et Tramp. 9 * 1 Dull apited tte dee tei exposed i sali tthe dosrt in tho soak of its Reinga plac open an expose te ndash tls? loc tos wide cst expan Aid staat Be aed erence to the comparative fei of the parr called A Dr. Wanuan’s Route in Northern Arabia. 309 into iregular hillocks in the neighbourhood of ‘ebook (Tebik). From the acute angle—named.al-Zawiié* (Zawiyeh) — thus formed between the Shefaa chain and its lateral branch of Harré (Harrah), the land of al-Hisma (Hisma) gradually opens out into ani extensive plain, over which a few isolated hills are, scattered, having among themselves a north-westerly course, They are of coloured sandstone as the Harré (Harrah) range, and look like outlying masses of its substance. ‘The general aspect and productions of the soil resemble those of Neg (Nejd) ; although that name is now never applied to this land. but exclax Sly rnc to the Noi (Nuh gm of the ero of ‘Al-Hismi (Iisms) is, by the author of the stated to be “a land in’ the desert, with high mountains, whose elevated erests are generally enveloped in mist.” He must mean by these mountains the bluff parts of the northern front of the Harré (Harrah) range, which borders this land to the S, and the high peaks of the Shefia (Shefa) chain. As for the mist, there was no Appearance of any daring the fow days T remained here, where we constantly enjoyed that serene au ly ky s peulins to te desert. The height ofthe Harré (Harrah) lille T cannot estimate ‘at more than 500 feet above the level of the plain ; but the dif- ference in temperature of this and of the lower country was very sensible. In al-Tahama (Tahamah) and al-Sahil (Sabil) the thermometer, at sunrise, varied from 15° to 11°, centigrade (68° to 52" Fab); while here it very often, at the same hour, sunk to 7° and 5° (443% and 41° Fahre.). Dew also fell in the night, which T scarcely ever recollect having observed in Arabia, but only in the deserts near the Nile and on the shore of the Red Sea, It was also, I presume, owing to the partially humid state of the atmosp! indicated by the presence of dew, that dis- ceases of the T met with instances, sometimes focenr here; similar affections being extremely rare in the interior of Arabia. ‘The nature of the locality and general aspect of al-Hismi (Hisma) seems to me to answer exactly to the description of {how lands which the Arabian geographers designate bythe name of Sarwa (pl. Sarawat), (Serwah, Strdwét), although it is not included among them.’ The ranges of the Sheféi (Shefé) chain seen from here appear to be lower than the level of this land, which therefore may be said to be “raised above the Tihimat (Thémah).” Kimoost (Kénnis), * Ia Arable sami sgt an angle or corner generally — A. fhe mardi auhr of gone he) deer) by ehh he ee alumi ais atthe We a B10 De. Wattaw’s Rowe in Northern Arabia. ‘Tho plain of al-ffisma is inhabited. almost entirely by the Matos [Mitézeh) and Bent "Ati (Atiyah) Bedooins, who pose ase all the land. from Birkét ql-Mvaihham (Muadbdham, the second pilgrim station S. of Tebook (Tobi), up to Wadi Mooea (Wali Mids), where they occasionally descend from the mountains, and mingle with their kindred tbe, the Telaha (Tey ha.) Thoy clan Birkst al-Muvaihdham (Birket al-Muadhe ham, al-Akhar (AKidhar, ‘Pebook (TebGk), Dhit al Higg (Dhatecl-itaj, and also in part Maan as belonging to ther, tun Tory upon the iahabtants of those places what may be called f amall \andred tax (Khawé, Khaweb), for the protection they profess to afford them agnint other tribes, Their ditriet of Escort (Mdrak) of the pilgrims fe between ‘Main (Mfa'én) and Birkel al-Muadhtham (Bieket al Muadhgham). ‘Their features and personal character indicate a Syrian extraction although 1 have not found any express notice of them to that ect by the ‘Arabian. genealogists “The principal clans of their tibe are al Atiyit CAiya0), consisting’ of the family and relations of the Chief Shit Ton al“Aiga CAtiyah ; Rotwilat (Robes); Su Subit) or Bent & é (Dhuysiiyeh) agar (Tajars) 5 ‘Saleimit); "Ayia livin) Khelard (Rhadiar®);"AmriyinCAmripfo); Sadan i. OF these clans, the only one I have found mentioned. in the “Arabian gennealogies isthe Suboot (Subst), which may poably ie the same as the Suboot (Subut) stated by” al-Kalkashendy to be «derived fom Lebid (Lebid, of Soleim (Soleim), (perhaps Salim), of the "Adnéniyé ("Adndniyeh)y dwelling in the tand of alsBanké (Barkah).”Ma’azs (Mavazch) ‘Arabs are spread over A Egypt and it may be presumed that thence, following the tray trodden for centuries by nomadic emigrants from Arabia, they passed over into the north of Aiea with the view of again tellog up their original desert habits, which they must have par al ahaone rig ba et ah the valley of the Nile "the Suboot (Subst) have been, on account oftheir name* and yectliar rites aseribed to them by some European travelers, supe Fost beof Seis vgn and bel atacod oda therefore particularly Spsrved thelr exstoms, and. questioned thom about thelr origin, With regard to the name of thelr elan thoy uniformly deriv it from that of one of ther ancestors called Suetén, a nnme still much used amougst the Bodooinsj-and in thele mode of Hfe and habits Teould aio. pocularty datin- sing Se from ote neihhoorng tenet a cit Gil not elsewhere sce in the desort, of ringing a large bell, sus- 7 Spe Galea a lal oF Cage Ga the math Dr. Wataaw's Route in Northern Arabia. al pended on the middle pole of the tent at the time of sunset, when the camels and flocks return from pasture. This eustom was ‘observed every evening, throughout the tribe, in the tents of the sheikhs and others whose means enabled’ them to possess a bell; but upon my inquiring its meaning, I could get no other information than that it was an old custom with them thus to hail the return of the camels and the mystic hour of descending night. "There are not, as far as I could learn amongst the nomadic Bedooins, nor in the towns or villages in the interior of Arabia, ersons professing any other religion than the Islam ; nor did Lever Fear, in thoe parts of Arabia wich I vised, mention made of tribes or of individuals suspected to be attached in secret to another creed. The reason of this does not seem to lie in the bigotry of the inhabitants, whom T have always found to be more tolerant than other Mustims ; but, probably, in the exact conformity of the Tslim to_the circumstances of the country in which it originated, aud in the absolte poverty of the desert tending to discourage inmnigration, and, perhaps also, in the extreme simplicity of li among the Bedooins disinelining the more refined inhabitants of the eurrounding countries to seek intercourse with them. Like most of the tribes which were not forced to adopt the reformed doctrines of tle Wah Weahbiych) sect during the peri of is ascendant power in Arabia, the Ma'izé (Mo'tze) are, in general, grossly ignorant in the religion they profess, an Tscarcely emomser ever meeting with a sige indimdual ofthe tribe who observed any ofthe rites of Islam whatever, or possessed the least notion of its fundamental and leading dogmas; While the reverse might, to a certain degree, be said of those Bedooins who are, or formerly were, Wahbabiyé (Wabhabiyeh). After passing some days in the tent of the chief sheikh, Thm “Atiyh CAtiyal), Tleft the tribe in company with two Bedooins We started fiom al-Zawiié (Zawriych), where, after an almost daily change of ground since T had been with them, their tents were then pitched, and following the side of the Harré (Harrah) range, with a N.NE. course, arrived, in 8h., at Wadi "Uweinid (Walt "Uweinid), a ravine resembling the dry bed of a torrent, and de- seending from the higher part of the Tange, in a N.N.W. direo- tion, between hillocks and Ridges covered with loose sand, upon the plain of al-Hlism (Hisma). This ravine has well of tlerably good water, and much herbage and brushwood. On its northem order is the burying place of the Ma'azé (Ma’ézeh) tribe, where, from ancient times, their sheikhs and other persons of considera~ tion have been customarily buried. Its entrance towards al- ni (Hisma) is filled with immence stones, which appear to 3i2 Dr. Wauutn’s Route in Northern Arabia. Ihave been detached and rolled down from the overhanging moun- tains. "Upon some of these stones are graven clumsy representa tions of various animals, such as eamels, seep, and dogs, and on ‘others, ineriptions in ill-formed characters, now neaely all effaced by the action of the weather on this erumbling sandstone. Al- Lam unable to form a deeiivo opinion tpon these Wscip- ‘nila inline, from their rudeness, trogen thea only ts the work of Bodgoin shepherd suchas T have agen in other pars ofthe desert, Transcribed few of thot, of which a copy i Even in tho annexed plats. “Except on the‘three stones fom hich the specimens ‘were taken’ T noticed. none contasing anything like connected symbols; but the impatience of my Be doin companions lft me’ ile time that T coud not sell far in quest of ethers which may possibly ex Hearing Wadi’ Uweinid fo our eighty we advanced in an easterly airceionover tilly ground, for Lf and then entered 2 narrow has ne io papa ci whi a he tat upon the plait of al-Bakkar (Bakar) bounded on the. W. bythe last pars ofthe Hares (Harrah) range, aod on the Ejoin- ig the plain of Hamadée‘Tebook (Hamadet Tebik). From the tommencement of the pin al-Bakkar (Bakke) at the eastern fn ofthe pas, to Tebook (Tabak), Treekonel 5, over a erm plete unbroken level, ‘The distance Between Neaveiay and ‘Te= Boke (Toba) is generally accounted 4 daye journey with laden camels which apiece with the time L took,” But were it not for fhe windings and badness ofthe road in al-Tabaind CTabatuah, the direct distance pointed out to me as E. by N. would not ex: ceed 3 days. “Tebook (Cebit) is a village of about sixty hoses, on the high= soa of the San pls ays om Ma's) ade Same number fom Hige (Fig). Ti aituated $n the contre of Tange plainy called Haadet ‘ebook (Hamat Tebak), in the trnct of Arabia Tying between the Shelia chain and its northerly ein Sr ene a th rang af he Nef ‘Muay hig land of Noga (Nj), on the east The Arsbian fregrapherdfer much ast the repion of Arabia to which this act Welongs, some. sefrring it to Syria, others to al- Higa (iijazy anothers to Neg (Nejd) Its present inbaitant, Taweret, indiaposed ae they are by menial habit to generalise, tuitige ‘give (the mole teat a generie name, nor consider ie {part of any one of th three regions mentioned, but denote by ‘pete mie each erate par of That pc of rng the'plain of Hamailét Tebook (Hamédet ‘Tebik) extends about Shon every side of the villages but from its great expanse and dhe abnence of any considerable lly ts boundaties ave tert, De, Wantan’s Route in Northern Arabia. aise Phare." 5° 09892 4)tDIN9)DO! 2360) 1) 20d4)tOO J> Odi 89d 7A +ON2IS)

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