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9 - Seam Classification Fed
9 - Seam Classification Fed
CLASSIFICATION
What is Seam ???
A seam is a joint consisting of a
sequence of stitches uniting two or
more pieces of material(s) and is used
for assembling parts in the
production of sewn items.
Joint = stitches + 2 or more pcs. of material
Seam Classes
As per Federal Government Standard 751a
Four Seam Classes‐
Superimposed Seam
Lapped Seam
Bound Seam
Flat Seam
Two Stitching Classes‐
Edge Finishing
Ornamental Stitching
Superimposed Seam
The superimposed seam (SS)
class is formed by joining two or
more pieces of fabric, usually
with seam allowance edges even
and one piece superimposed
over the second.
Superimposed Seam Types
Waistband ‐ Waistband ‐
inside outside
Stitching thread
Superimposed Seam Types
SSd‐Not common.
SSf‐Butt Seam & Tape‐ For butt seaming & taping heel
seams on shoes, etc.
SSk‐ Seam with Piping‐For seam apparel, furniture with
piping in seam.
SSl‐ For setting front pockets on jeans.
SSq‐ Seam, Fold & Cord‐For attaching yokes to back or
shoulder joining on shirts, blouses, etc. Similar to LSe
but done in 2 steps.
SSs‐Hemming and attaching zipper tape.
Superimposed Seam Types
SSt‐ For seaming knitted or woven elastic to boxers and
gym shorts.
SSv‐Not common.
The lapped seam (LS) class is
defined as two or more pieces of
fabric joined by overlapping at
the needle.
Lapped Seam Types
LSa‐ Lap seaming‐ Attaching knitted cuffs – generally sewn
with a coverstitch ‐ 605 or 607.
SSg‐Two Piece Waistband‐Attaching a waistband to
chinos or work pants.
SSj‐Two Piece Waistband‐Attaching a waistband to chinos
or work pants.
Fusing, interlining
Lapped Seam Types
LSk‐ Waist banding on pajamas; making rod pocket on
curtains & shower curtains, etc.
LSn‐ Not common.
Lapped Seam Types
LSq‐ Seam & Cord Seam‐ Side seam on jeans; chinos;
jackets, etc.
LSs‐Patch Pocket Setting‐ For setting large patch
pockets on suit coats, overcoats, and jackets.
LSz‐Joining & Taping‐ Joining & taping fronts of knit
briefs & thermal underwear.
Bound Seam
The bound seam (BS) Class requires
a separate piece of fabric that
encompasses the edge of one or
more pieces of the garment.
Bound Seam Types
BSa‐ Binding carpets, etc, with selvedge
edge binding.
BSc‐ Waist banding on Jeans‐For setting sleeve facings
to shirts, piping edges of outerwear, etc. Can be sewn
with a 301 lockstitch or 401 Chain stitch.
BSd‐ Seaming with selvedge edge binding on
outerwear.
Bound Seam Types
BSe‐ Seaming and binding on outerwear.
The flat seam (FS) class is the
smallest class. The formation of
this seam occurs with the butting
together of two pieces of fabric,
but not overlapping them.
Flat Seam Types
FSa‐ Flat seaming ‐ Flat seaming underwear,
fleece, exercise wear, etc. Generally, sewn with
a 607 stitch. Sometimes a 606 Flatlock Stitch.
Fsf‐ Bolt‐end seaming with a 501 Stitch.
Stitching Classes
In this class the stitching is performed
on a single piece of fabric. The fabric
may be folded in variety of ways so
the stitching may be through more
than one thickness
Stitching Classes
Two Stitching Classes‐
9Edge Finishing
9Ornamental Stitching
Edge Finishing
Edge finishing (EF) is stitching that
encompasses the cut edge or provides a
finish for a single ply of fabric with a
folded edge configuration.
Edge Finishing Types
EFa‐ Hemming selvedge edge, shirtfront.
EFb‐Clean Finish Hem‐Hemming shirts, jeans, shorts,
etc.
EFc‐ Blindhemming‐Hemming bottoms of tee
shirts, undershirts, etc. usually sewn with a 503
Stitch.
EFg‐Hem and insert elastic to infant panties,
etc.
EFn‐ Making straps or belts with clean finish.
Edge Finishing Types
EFp‐ Making straps or belts with clean finish.
EFq‐Hem and insert elastic to infant panties, etc.
EFr‐Tunneled elastic‐ Hem and insert elastic to
infant panties, etc.
EFy‐ Making straps or belts with clean finish.
EFz‐ Making straps or belts with clean finish.
Ornamental Stitching
Ornamental stitching may be used on a single ply
for decorative purposes. It can be done anywhere
except the edge.
Ornamental Stitching Types
OSa‐ Decorative Stitching‐Decorative stitch
back pockets on jeans; saddle stitching.
Drapability‐ is affected by the flexibility of
materials and seam construction. Seams
need the same amount of drapability as the
rest of the garment. Use of heavy thread,
complex seam structures mainly contribute
to the rigidity of a seam.
Seam Appearance
Consistency of stitch & seam formation‐
very critical to garment appearance as
irregularity affects the shape of the
garment and can cause poor fit and
unsightly appearance.
Seam Appearance
Seam Flatness‐ A flat seam is free of fabric
creases, waviness and pucker. Some
factors affecting seam flatness may be
controlled by pressing, top stitching and
cover stitching.
Seam Performance
9Relates to the elasticity, strength and
flexibility of a seam.
9Seam abrasion resistance is the amount of rubbing
action needed to wear away stitches in the seam