THE INABEL OF ILOCOS: WOVEN CLOTH FOR

E V E R Y D AY
The inabel is one of the many prides of the Ilocos region specifically in Ilocos Norte in
the Philippines. “Abel” is the Ilocano word for weave, and “inabel” can be interpreted to
mean any kind of woven fabric. In the world of weaving however, inabel is particularly
used to refer to textile that is distinctly Ilocano in origin.

The Abel Iloko is an ancient method of weaving. This tradition was inherited in the
Ilokanos by the Tingyans. A group of ancient people.

Inabel fabric is made of cotton and it may be plain or patterned. The abel cloth is well
known and much loved for its softness, beautiful designs, and strength. 

Ilocos weavers use hardwood pedal looms, employing different design techniques.
The binakul pattern, a dizzying pattern, is meant to ward off and distract evil spirits.
Other patterns include the multi-heddle design technique, the pinilian or brocade weave,
the suk-suk or discontinuous supplementary weft technique, and the ikat tie-dye
technique. As with other forms of handweaving in the country, the process of creating
inabel is intricate and labor-intensive.

The traditional process of weaving abel cloth begins with preparing the cotton, from
picking cotton balls, removing seeds, pounding or beating, twisting using a spindle, and
winding the cotton yarn into the skeiner. The skeined yarn is then brushed to make it
glossy and durable before it is wound to a bamboo spool.

Once the yarn is ready, it’s time to prepare the loom.

The weaver winds the spool yarn into the warping reel. The warp yarn is then wound
into the warp beam rod. Next comes heddling, in which the warp yarn is inserted
through the eye of the heddle using a weaving hook. After that, the weaver inserts the
warp yarn through the spaces of the reed and “dresses” the loom by tying the heddles
behind the beater. Only then can inabel, or weaving, commence.

The younger generation of Ilocanos are being encouraged to keep the tradition
of inabel alive. In the town of Pinili in Ilocos Norte, the local government has been
offering basic weaving courses to all interested individuals since 2018. The lessons are
presided over by Magdalena Gamayo, one of the country’s National Living Treasures. 

Gamayo was awarded the “Gawad Manlilikha ng Bayan” by the National Commision for
Culture and the Arts in 2012 for her mastery in abel weaving. The award is the highest
honor given to craftsmen, artisans, folk artists, and culture-bearers.
Weaving is still the primary source of income for the women in the region,
who understand the delicacy of their trade and are fighting to keep the tradition alive.

NATIONAL LIVING TREASURE MAGDALENA GAMAYO AT HER LOOM

WITH INABEL BEHIND HER.