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Urtekram

Anti-Pollution
Cellulite Scrub
Scrub

Uploaded by: helenap60 on 02/22/2021

Ingredients overview

Aqua ,
Hydrogenated Castor Oil ,
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf
Extract* ,
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter* ,
Prunus Amygdalus
Dulcis Oil* ,
Glycerin** ,
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/​Stearate ,
Glyceryl Stearate SE ,
Cetyl Alcohol ,
Zea Mays Starch* ,
Glyceryl Caprylate ,
Lysolecithin ,
Camellia Sinensis Leaf
Powder*,
Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Oil* ,
Simmondsia Chinensis
Seed Oil* ,
Glycine Soja Seed Extract ,
Lactobacillus/​
Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Ferment Extract,
Leuconostoc/​Radish
Root Ferment Filtrate ,
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract ,
Beta-Sitosterol,
Hexapeptide-11,
Hydrolyzed Algin,
Sodium
Hyaluronate ,
Squalene ,
Maris Aqua ,
Sucrose ,
Xanthan
Gum ,
Tocopherol ,
Phenethyl Alcohol ,
Parfum ,
Citral ,
Limonene
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Highlights

#alcohol-free

Key Ingredients
Antioxidant: Glycine Soja Seed Extract , Squalene ,
Tocopherol
Skin brightening: Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin-identical ingredient: Glycerin** , Sodium Hyaluronate
, Squalene
Soothing: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract* , Glycine Soja Seed
Extract , Sucrose

Show all ingredients by function

Other Ingredients
Abrasive/scrub: Zea Mays Starch*
Antimicrobial/antibacterial: Leuconostoc/​Radish Root
Ferment Filtrate , Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Emollient: Hydrogenated Castor Oil , Aloe Barbadensis Leaf
Extract* , Butyrospermum Parkii Butter* , Prunus Amygdalus
Dulcis Oil* , Cetyl Alcohol , Glyceryl Caprylate ,
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil* , Glycine Soja Seed Extract ,
Squalene
Emulsifying: Hydrogenated Castor Oil , Polyglyceryl-3
Dicitrate/​Stearate , Glyceryl Stearate SE , Cetyl Alcohol ,
Glyceryl Caprylate , Lysolecithin
Moisturizer/humectant: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract* ,
Glycerin** , Sodium Hyaluronate , Maris Aqua , Sucrose
Perfuming: Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Oil* , Parfum , Citral ,
Limonene
Preservative: Leuconostoc/​Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Solvent: Aqua , Maris Aqua , Limonene
Surfactant/cleansing: Hydrogenated Castor Oil ,
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/​Stearate , Cetyl Alcohol
Viscosity controlling: Hydrogenated Castor Oil ,
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter* , Cetyl Alcohol , Zea Mays
Starch* , Xanthan Gum

Skim through

irr.,
Ingredient name what-it-does ID-Rating
com.
Aqua solvent
emollient,
viscosity controlling,
Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,
1
emulsifying,
surfactant/​cleansing
soothing,
emollient,
moisturizer/​
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract* Goodie
humectant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter* emollient,
viscosity controlling Goodie
0,
1-
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil* emollient Goodie
3
skin-identical ingredient,
Glycerin** 0,
0 Superstar
moisturizer/​humectant
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Steara
emulsifying,
surfactant/​cleansing
te
Glyceryl Stearate SE emulsifying 2,
3
emollient,
emulsifying,
viscosity
Cetyl Alcohol 2,
2
controlling,
surfactant/​cleansing
viscosity controlling,
abrasive/​
Zea Mays Starch*
scrub
Glyceryl Caprylate emollient,
emulsifying
Lysolecithin emulsifying
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder
*
Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Oil* perfuming Icky
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oi 0,
emollient Goodie
l* 0-2
antioxidant,
skin brightening,
Glycine Soja Seed Extract Goodie
soothing,
emollient
Lactobacillus/Capsicum Frutes
cens Fruit Ferment Extract
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Fer antimicrobial/​antibacterial,
ment Filtrate preservative
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extr
antimicrobial/​antibacterial
act
irr.,
Ingredient name what-it-does ID-Rating
com.
Beta-Sitosterol
Hexapeptide-11
Hydrolyzed Algin
skin-identical ingredient,
Sodium Hyaluronate 0,
0 Goodie
moisturizer/​humectant
skin-identical ingredient,
Squalene Goodie
antioxidant,
emollient
Maris Aqua moisturizer/​humectant,
solvent
Sucrose moisturizer/​humectant,
soothing Goodie
Xanthan Gum viscosity controlling
0-3,
Tocopherol antioxidant Goodie
0-3
Phenethyl Alcohol
Parfum perfuming Icky
Citral perfuming Icky
Limonene perfuming,
solvent Icky

[less]

Urtekram Anti-Pollution Cellulite Scrub

Ingredients explained

Aqua
ALSO-CALLED: Water |
WHAT-IT-DOES: solvent

Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient
of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the
ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff
that makes up the product. 

It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to


dissolve in oils but rather in water. 

Expand to read more

Hydrogenated Castor Oil


WHAT-IT-DOES: emollient, viscosity controlling, emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing
|
IRRITANCY: 0

|
COMEDOGENICITY: 1

A chemically modified version of castor oil that results in a solid,


waxy material that serves as an emollient and consistency
building material.

It also has some unique moisturizing properties as it is


both  occlusive and humectant.  The former one is common
for oils and waxes and it means that it sits on top of the skin
hindering water to evaporate out of the top layers. The latter one,
the humectant property, is surprising and comes from the unique
property of ricinoleic acid (the dominant fatty acid in castor oil) 
having an extra water-loving -OH group on its otherwise oil-
loving fatty chain. We have some more info about this at castor
oil, so if you are interested, read on here.  

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract* - goodie


ALSO-CALLED:Aloe Leaf Extract;Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract |
WHAT-IT-DOES: soothing,
emollient, moisturizer/humectant

The extract coming from the  juice containing leaves of the Aloe
vera plant. It's usually a  hydroglycolic  extract (though   oil
extract  for the lipid parts also exists) that has similar
moisturizing, emollient and anti-inflammatory properties
as the juice itself. We have written some more about aloe here.

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter* - goodie


ALSO-CALLED: Shea Butter;Butyrospermum Parkii Butter |
WHAT-IT-DOES: emollient, viscosity
controlling

Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea
butter. It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in
skincare today.  It comes from the seeds of African Shea or
Karite Trees and used as a magic moisturizer and emollient.

But it's not only a simple emollient, it regenerates and soothes


the skin,  protects it from external factors (such as UV rays or
wind) and is also rich in antioxidants (among others vitamin
A, E, F, quercetin and epigallocatechin gallate). If you are looking
for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to beat. 
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil* - goodie
ALSO-CALLED: Sweet Almond Oil;Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil |
WHAT-IT-DOES: emollient
|
IRRITANCY: 0

|
COMEDOGENICITY: 1-3

The emollient plant oil that comes from almonds. Similar to


other plant oils, it is loaded with skin-nourishing fatty acids (oleic
acid - 55-86% and linoleic acid 7-35%) and contains several other
skin goodies such as antioxidant vitamin E and vitamin B
versions. 

It's a nice, basic oil that is often used due to its great smoothing,


softening and moisturizing properties. It's also particularly
good at treating dry brittle nails (source).

Glycerin** - superstar
ALSO-CALLED:Glycerol;Glycerin |
WHAT-IT-DOES: skin-identical ingredient,
moisturizer/humectant
|
IRRITANCY: 0

|
COMEDOGENICITY: 0

A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin


A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for
more than 50 years
Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps
the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid
crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore
barrier
Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher
concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-
effectiveness sweet spot)
High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely
dry skin
Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>

Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/​Stearate
WHAT-IT-DOES: emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing


We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Glyceryl Stearate SE
WHAT-IT-DOES: emulsifying
|
IRRITANCY: 2

|
COMEDOGENICITY: 3

An oily kind of ingredient that can magically blend with water all
by itself. This is called self-emulsifying and SE in its name
stands for that.

The difference between "normal" Glyceryl Stearate and this guy is


that the SE grade contains a small amount of water-loving soap
molecules, such as  sodium  stearate. This increases Glyceryl
Stearate's affinity for water and gives it stronger emulsifying
abilities.    

Expand to read more

Cetyl Alcohol
WHAT-IT-DOES: emollient, emulsifying, viscosity controlling, surfactant/cleansing, emulsion
stabilising
|
IRRITANCY: 2

|
COMEDOGENICITY: 2

A so-called fatty (the good, non-drying kind of) alcohol that does


all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel
smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products
and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Can be derived
from coconut or palm kernel oil.

Zea Mays Starch*


Corn Starch;Zea Mays Starch |
WHAT-IT-DOES: viscosity controlling,
ALSO-CALLED:
absorbent/mattifier, abrasive/scrub

A corn-derived, white to yellowish, floury powder that works as


a handy helper ingredient to create nice feeling
emulsions.

It gives a generally pleasant skin feel, has some mattifying effect


(though rice starch is better at that), it reduces greasiness and
tackiness and helps the formula to spread easily without
whitening or shininess. 

Glyceryl Caprylate
WHAT-IT-DOES: emollient, emulsifying
A 100% plant derived, natural (Ecocert approved) multi-
functional ingredient that has emollient and moisturizing
properties, can work as a co-emulsifier (meaning that next to
other emulsifiers it can help water and oil to mix)  and even more
importantly has a strong antimicrobial activity. 

Thanks to this last thing, it allows a lower percentage of


traditional preservative or it might even be able to
completely replace them. 

Lysolecithin
WHAT-IT-DOES: emulsifying


We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder*



We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Oil* - icky


ALSO-CALLED: Lime Peel Oil;Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Oil |
WHAT-IT-DOES: perfuming


We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil* - goodie


ALSO-CALLED: Jojoba Oil;Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil |
WHAT-IT-DOES: emollient
|
IRRITANCY:
0

|
COMEDOGENICITY: 0-2

Jojoba is a drought resistant evergreen shrub native to South-


western North America. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the
golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the
weight of the seeds will be oil).  

At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it


looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin
but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really
special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not
an oil but a wax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). 

Expand to read more


Glycine Soja Seed Extract - goodie
ALSO-CALLED: Soybean Extract |
WHAT-IT-DOES: antioxidant, skin brightening, soothing,
emollient

When you hear the word Soy, you probably associate it with soy
sauce or tofu, not skincare. But as it turns out, the soybean has a
bunch of useful active components and soybean extract is an
interesting cosmetic ingredient with a wide range of possible
effects. 

Its main active components are antioxidant phenolic acids and


flavonoids  as well as small and large soy proteins. The large
proteins give soybean extract nice skin smoothing and
softening properties, while the small proteins (soybean
trypsin inhibitor (STI) and Bowman-Birk inhibitor (BBI)) are
thought to inhibit skin pigmentation  and  delay hair
regrowth.   

Expand to read more

Lactobacillus/​Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Ferment Extract



We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Leuconostoc/​Radish Root Ferment Filtrate


ALSO-CALLED: Fermented Radish Root |
WHAT-IT-DOES: antimicrobial/antibacterial, preservative

It's an alternative, natural preservative that comes


from  radishes fermented with  Leuconostoc kimchii, a lactic acid
bacteria that has been used to make traditional Korean dish,
kimchi. During the fermentation process, a peptide is  secreted
from the bacteria that has significant antimicrobial
properties. 

It is one of the more promising natural preservatives that can be


used even alone (recommended at 2-4%), but it's not as effective
as more common alternatives, like parabens or phenoxyethanol. 

Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract


WHAT-IT-DOES: antimicrobial/antibacterial


We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Beta-Sitosterol
WHAT-IT-DOES: emulsion stabilising


We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Hexapeptide-11

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Hydrolyzed Algin

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Sodium Hyaluronate - goodie


WHAT-IT-DOES:skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant
|
IRRITANCY: 0

|
COMEDOGENICITY: 0

It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,  hyaluronic


acid  (HA). If HA does not tell you anything we have a super
detailed, geeky explanation about it here.  The TL; DR version of
HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated
subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin
to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. HA is famous for its
crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times
its own weight in water.

As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and


hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two
names are used interchangeably. As cosmetic chemist
kindofstephen  writes on reddit  "sodium hyaluronate
disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in
solution". 

Expand to read more


Squalene - goodie
WHAT-IT-DOES: skin-identical ingredient, antioxidant, emollient

Squalene is an oily liquid that originally comes from shark liver


but luckily it can also be found in a couple of plant oils. Olive
(0.6%), peanut (0.1%) and pumpkin (0.35%) oils contain it,
though not in huge amounts. 

What contains more of it, is the sebum (the oily stuff) that our
skin produces. About 13% of human sebum is squalene, which
means that it’s an important skin-identical ingredient and
NMF (natural moisturizing factor). 

Expand to read more

Maris Aqua
ALSO-CALLED: Sea Water |
WHAT-IT-DOES: moisturizer/humectant, solvent


We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Sucrose - goodie
WHAT-IT-DOES: moisturizer/humectant, soothing

A type fo sugar, usually refined from cane or beet sugar. On the


skin, it has  water-binding properties and helps to keep your
skin hydrated. 

Xanthan Gum
WHAT-IT-DOES: viscosity controlling, emulsion stabilising

It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion


stabilizers. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will
make it more gel-like. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky
and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other
thickeners and so-called  rheology modifiers (helper ingredients
that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). The typical
use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5%
range. 
Btw, Xanthan gum is all natural, a chain of sugar molecules
(polysaccharide) produced from individual sugar molecules
(glucose and sucrose) via fermentation. It’s approved by Ecocert
and also used in the food industry (E415). 

Tocopherol - goodie
ALSO-CALLED: Vitamin E |
WHAT-IT-DOES: antioxidant
|
IRRITANCY: 0-3

|
COMEDOGENICITY: 0-3

Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin


Significant photoprotection against UVB rays
Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great
photoprotection
Has emollient properties
Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive
Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>

Phenethyl Alcohol
A colorless liquid used in small amounts as a so-called  masking
ingredient, meaning it can hide the natural not-so-nice
smell of other cosmetic ingredients. It has a nice rose-like
scent  and can be found in several essential oils such as rose,
neroli or geranium. It also has some antimicrobial activity and
can boost the performance of traditional preservatives.

Parfum - icky
ALSO-CALLED: Fragrance, Parfum;Parfum/Fragrance |
WHAT-IT-DOES: perfuming

Exactly what it sounds: nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic


products so that the end product also smells nice. Fragrance in
the US and parfum in the EU is a generic term on the
ingredient list that is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on
average (but it can have as much as 200 components!). 

If you are someone who likes to know what you put on your face
then fragrance is not your best friend - there's no way to know
what’s really in it.  
Expand to read more

Citral - icky
WHAT-IT-DOES: perfuming

It’s a common fragrance ingredient that smells like lemon and


has a bittersweet taste.   It can be found in many plant oils, e.g.
lemon, orange, lime or lemongrass. 

It’s one of the “EU 26 fragrances” that has to be labelled


separately (and cannot be simply included in the term
“fragrance/perfume” on the label) because of allergen potential.
Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive.

Limonene - icky
WHAT-IT-DOES: perfuming, solvent, deodorant

A super  common and cheap fragrance ingredient. It's in


many plants, e.g. rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass,
peppermint and it's the main component (about 50-90%) of the
peel oil of citrus fruits.

It does smell  nice but the problem  is that it oxidizes on air


exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin.
Oxidized  limonene can  cause allergic contact dermatitis and
counts as a frequent skin sensitizer. 

Expand to read more

[less]

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