Step-By-Step Building Instructions For the B19 and B20 Gyro Сopters

(1) First make up and assemble the axle stub assemblies so they are ready to slip in each end of the axle housing
tube for permanent welding.

(2) Weld the axle assemblies in and cut and saddle out the ends of the axle housing to main boom riser tube,
saddling the ends 90° apart. Find the center of the housing and weld this riser exactly et the center. The upper
end will later weld to the main boom in the location shown on the drawings, but before welding it to the boom, heat
the housing tube under and around this riser and spring the axle ends down until, when sitting on a level floor,
there will be about ¾" clearance at this center. This is not shown on the drawings, but is necessary since if this
isn't done the welding of other struts welded to the boom and axle housing will cause the ends, when cool, to be
in a slightly sprung-up position. This would cause the main wheels to lean in at the top and make a poor
appearance.

(3) Cut the main horizontal boom length to 96", measure 51" in from one end and clearly draw a line around the
tube. Set the axle housing on a level floor with the riser tube in the vertical position and position the 51" line on the
boom directly over the riser tube's saddled out end and, with a small square, level lengthwise. Now, with a steel
tape measure the distance from the ends of the axle housing to the end of the boom and be sure the distances
are the same. This squares the axles with the boom. After welding, if found to be somewhat drawn out, spring
them back in the equal position before welding any other struts in place. It is best to tack weld this and then
double check before welding permanently.

(4) The 51" end is now the front end and the 45" end the rear of the fuselage. With your steel tape, measure from
the axle housing. Riser tube center, out 9½" on each side of this housing and mark a line around the housing tube
at each of these points. The struts extending from the front and the back ends of the boom to the axle housing will
be welded at these points (see drawings). Measure these struts for length and cut them off. One end of each of
the four is to be taper-flattened back about 3", and these ends welded to the boom ends, with the other ends on
the housing lines.

(5) Position the two front booms to the axle struts and weld them in place. Before welding the two rear ones, heat
the boom directly over and around where the riser welded to the boom, then bend the rear part of the boom up
about ¾" at the end. This allows for weld-shrinkage and keeps the tail from drooping, which would diminish its
performance and appearance. It also will let the machine rock back farther when tilting up for takeoff. You can
now weld the two backside struts in place.

(6) Block the front of the boom so it is level; then cut the mast to length and saddle out one end to fit the curvature
of the boom tubing. From the front of the boom measure 48" and draw a line around the tubing; the saddled out
end of the mast will center over this line. With the use of a spirit level, plumb the mast in both fore and aft
sideways positons until perfectly plumb vertical. As your main frame has already been made level and the mast is
plumb, tack weld, then check again until it permanently holds while welding it in place. If the mast does move off
plumb at the top, it can be easily sprung back into place since it wouldn't be off by much. It is a good idea to weigh
the boom down and use some kind of prop or support to keep anything from moving while aligning and welding.
When finished welding the mast to the boom, the sides will have a gap because the mast is larger than the boom.
Weld the front and back and then heat these sides and form them in by peening with a hammer. This will make a
high-strength assess ,

(7) Cut the seat bottom tubes to length per the measurements shown in the drawings and weld the five tubes
used in its construction. The larger end heavier-wall tube is the back side of the seat bottom. Mark the center of
both the rear and the front tubes in the seat bottom. With a square, draw a large enough T to equal the width and
length of the seat bottom. Place the rear tube centerline where the T-line intersects and secure it in place. Now
with the front tube centerline across the other end of the T, fit in the sides. This will keep the seat held in a plumb
position until it is tack welded. It can now be taken out and welded permanently. If necessary, study the drawings
and reread these instructions until they become clear. Next cut to length the two struts which extend from each
seat corner (the rear comers) to almost the top of the mast. These struts are to be cut to length and taper-
flattened on one end each for about 3". Later this flattened end will weld to the top and each side of the mast. Lay
them on a flat surface with the flattened ends together and the other ends spread out on about 19" centers. Now
lightly tack weld the flat ends at their end. Place the seat bottom on something flat and position the unflattened
ends of these struts flush with the outside of the rear seat bottom tube and in a vertical position and weld them to
these comers. As you will see in the drawings, there are two short brace tubes placed in each of the corners. This
is done for two reasons: to brace and strengthen the corners and to make the loop for the safety belt (see
drawings). There is one more small V made of tubing for supporting the front end of the seat off the boom. Use a
piece of tubing with 12" marked off on it for the top width spacing of these tubes and tack weld the bottom ends
together. The tacked ends will be cut off later when this arrangement is welded at the top ends to the seat. This
will complete the seat assembly except for welding it on and its bracing. The tack weld on the mast struts end is
now ground off and this will leave them tending to stay sprung together. This allows them to grasp the mast while
aligning the seat. The seat bottom rear tube is to have 3 ½" clearance from the mast and 3 ½" off the boom. This
is accomplished by adjusting the mast struts up or down and also cutting the ends off the tacked ends of the front
underseat V until you have arrived at these clearances. When this is done and the frame is level and the mast
plumb, lay a spirit level across the seat at the rear end and adjust or arrange the seat so it is level and the center
marks you put on the seat-frame ends are directly over the boom. When correct, tack the tops of the mast struts
to the mast, then check again, level and tack the boom ends of the small front V. If everything is aligned, weld all
four places permanently. Put in the underseat two braces and weld them solid, then install the two which extend
from the rear corners of the seat bottoms to the axle housing (see drawings).

(8) Taking measurements from the drawings (determine the scale) make up the fin-mount clips and weld them on.
These can be brazed if desired. It will be easier if these are drilled before welding them on. In order to keep them
in a straight line it is best to slip them on a short piece of ¼ " bar. This will hold the proper spacing and allow an
easy alignment, which will assure you of having a straight, aligned rudder and fin when finished.

(9) This is a good time to install the lift arm crosstube in the top of the mast. The mast must be saddled out at the
top for this; the depth of the saddle is equal to about half the diameter of this tube, which is 1-5/8". It is centered
across the mast top and level with the rest of the frame and also in-line crosswise with the axle housing when
looking down from the top. Fit this carefully and weld securely, as it carries all the load in flight; if properly welded
it will be stronger than necessary. Take care to make this plumb and square so that when the head is mounted it
will also stand erect and square, creating a sound, professional structure.

(10) The fin-strut anchor tubes can be installed at this time. These are 11/16" tubes 6" long each and are flattened
on the ends for about 3", with а ¼" hole drilled in the flattened end to bolt the fin struts to later. Weld them on as
shown in the drawings. The tailwheel plates can be made up. These plates weld to the boom end. Either a three
or four inch wheel can be used. Make the plates long enough so as to have at least 2" clearance for the wheel off
the boom. Measure the width of the wheel and make a spacer tube that length. Now place a 3/32" washer on
each end of the spacer and bolt this in between the side plates. Align the plates and clamp together when they
are drilled. With this assembly bolted together it is ready to weld to the boom. The spacer will now be removed
and the wheel installed with a washer on each side for clearance.

(11) The landing gear struts are next.. Start with the rear two and flatten their ends, one end each tapered back
about 3". These are the outer ends; they will lay up against the axle housing on the back side (see drawings) and
up to the side of the boom, as shown, and are welded. The other two or front ones extend down from the back
rear seat corner to about the same location on the axle housing except they weld on the top side as shown. This
completes the airframe for the B19 Glider except for the nose wheel assembly. The airframes are exactly alike for
the B19 and the powered 620 Copter except for the engine mount and the accessories needed for powered flight.
This will be discussed later and the nose wheel will be next.

(12) First size the yoke top to the dimensions shown in the drawings. Lay out the main shaft location and drill a
hole for it. This is drilled to a snug 13/16" and the shaft pressed through about ¼". Check to be sure of plumbness
and with an arc welder weld it in from the bottom side only. Do a thorough job of welding here so it can never
come loose—especially when flying under engine power. Lay out the nose wheel yoke sides from 1/8" plate
material. You can cut them out with a torch, smooth them on a grinder and then finish shape-grinding by clamping
them together to make them exactly alike. Before unclamping, drill the 5/8" axle hole. After these parts have been
fabricated it is time for their final assembly. To do this, cut and face a spacer tube from 11/16" tubing the exact
length as the width of the nose wheel yoke top; place the spacer between these plate sides and bolt the assembly
tightly together. Line their edges up square and push the yoke top down flush with the tops of these sides, then
bind them together with a C-clamp and tack weld the four corners. Now take the clamp off and weld both top and
bottom or underneath sides permanently with an arc welder. The width of the nosewheel hub is exactly 2", so two
spacers will have to be made from 11/16" tubing to fit the axle on each side of the wheel. To get their lengths,
measure the distance between the nose wheel yoke sides under the top and subtract 2" from this; then cut the
tube in half or to equal lengths. Now when the wheel and both spacers are on the axle the yoke sides will be the
same distance apart at the bottom and at the top. Clean off a!l weld spatter, and this completes the nose wheel
yoke assembly. A 4" butt hinge is welded to the ¼" yoke top on the rear side and a flap of ¾" x 2½" x 12" wood
fastened to the other half of this hinge with wood screws as shown in the drawings. This flap is used as a brake
on the nosewheel when pressed against the tire. In the center and back edge of this flap is placed a heavy-duty
eyescrew and door spring as shown (see drawings). To the other end of this spring is attached a 3/32" cable
around a cable thimble and then secured with a nicopress sleeve. A 3/16" hole is then drilled through the lower
end of the axle housing riser tube just above the housing tube, then the cable is run through this and pulled tight
and a nicopress sleeve crimped on to hold it. This keeps the nosewheel straight and acts as a stabilizer. The final
operation before completion is the welding on of the steering tubes (see drawings), one on each side of the nose
wheel yoke at the top of the sides as shown. These are 11/16" tubes 6" long each. A good job of brazing will hold
them. Next is fitting the whole assembly to the airframe so the front of the frame will be level—from the main axle
front to the end of the main boom—when both landing wheels and the nose wheel assembly are fitted. Install the
main landing wheels on their axles and, with a spirit level on top of the front boom, block the front up until level
and weigh it down to hold in position. Now center punch a location exactly 1 ¾" back from the front end of boom
in the center on top and, using a hole saw, saw a one inch hole through for the nosewheel shaft housing which is
a piece of 15/16" tubing. This is placed down through the boom and is plumbed up for squareness and welded in
at the top and under the bottom side of the boom. After cooling, the weld on the top side is ground flush with the
top of boom and a 7/8" hole washer is centered over this hole and brazed all around without getting any bronze
inside the tube. You can also do this installation of the housing if a piece of 15/16" tube is used to start with and
run through to the floor, letting the rest extend vertical. In doing it this way the tubing, before being welded, can be
plumbed with a small square end-wise and aligned with the mast sideways and then welded as described above,
the top surplus cut off. It is easier to get in alignment this way, but wastes tubing as some will be lost later from
the underside. When welding the bottom, don't burn through the tubing as the shaft would then not go through
and cleaning would be difficult. The washer on top is to be brazed on level since the cotter key holding the shaft
turns around on this and it mustn't bind when the wheel swings around. It will be a little hard to get the nosewheel
shaft through the tubing after welding, but clean it out with a rat tail file and then use plenty of oil on the shaft and
work it in and out, cleaning it each time until it works easily. Do this from the top side down. We are now ready to
find the correct length of the shaft housing underneath the boom. To do this, have the wheel in the yoke assembly
and while the front half of the boom is level, position the nose wheel assembly with its shaft vertical, then draw a
line even with the nose wheel yoke on top of the lower end of the shaft housing tube and cut it off on this line.
When this is done, slip the shaft out and place a 7/8" washer on and replace the wheel assembly. This washer will
fit around the shaft housing tube and lay flat against the nose wheel yoke top. Braze this washer to the shaft
housing in this position. This acts as an end bearing plate. Now you can center punch the shaft above the boom
and drill the cotter-pin hole to hold the shaft. Use a 3/16" cotter and be sure to use a castle nut and cotter on the
nose wheel axle. Install all tour wheels at this time using only a washer and cotter on both main landing wheels.
Use an elastic lock nut on the tail wheel axle. The foot rest is a 13/16" tube 14" long. This is welded on the back of
the washer surrounding the nose wheel shaft and as close as possible without the cotter key binding on the weld.
Make a center line on the rest tube and center it over the center of the boom. If using the machine as a B19, this
can be brazed if done well. This will complete the front end except for the tow pylon which consists of just two
15/16" tubes (see drawings). At the top of this pylon a 1/2" hole is drilled through sideways and a ½ " O.D. tube
about 1 1/8" long welded in for the tow link.

(13) The B19 rudder and fin is cut out to shape from a 1/4" thick piece of plywood. Use the grid drawing shown on
the drawings for shaping layout. From top to bottom, sand both edges to a point and the leading edge round. It is
mounted to the fin lugs or clips with two 10-32 or ¼ " bolts as shown. The two fin struts are flattened on both ends
for about 3". The flattened ends of each are 180° apart with both ends drilled ¼ " so one end attaches to the top of
the fin and the other end is down at the fin anchor tubes, which are also each flattened on one end to accept the
struts (see drawings). Align the tail with the center of the mast. Fill the plywood, sand smooth and apply two or
three coats of enamel.

(14) We will now start on the airplane-type control (joystick). The torque-tube is first cut to length. This is 15/16"
tubing, 24" long. A mount-shaft is needed at each end and these are made as follows: From 13/16" O.D. x 3/8"
I.D. heavy-wall tubing cut two lengths 3/4" long. Also two headless 3/8" bolts 3" long. Insert the bolts, thread first,
through these bushings until the threads plus ½ " is through, then weld the bolts to the ends of the bushings on
the unthreaded ends. These two assemblies are now inserted in each end of the torque-tube with about 1/8"
protruding out of the tube, and braze around this 1/8". When cool and buffed off, drill a 1/8" hole for a rivet in each
for safety. (See drawings for details.) Lay out and center-punch the locations of the torque-tube crossarm at the
bellcrank end and the sleeve tube used through the front end, which is where the control stick attaches to the
torque-tube as a joint. (Check drawings for this measurement.) Be sure to get the crossarm center and the center
of the stick joint tube in line and on the same plane when sighted from tube ends. Make up two more headless
bolts and bushings as were done for the ends of the torque-tubes; the bushings are still 3/4" long, but the O.D. is
sized to fit inside the crossarm ends, so the bushings will have to be turned down after they are welded to the
bolts to fit in the crossarms ends. The 3/8" bolts should extend through these bushings 13/16" beyond the threads
before being welded. The reason is to make room for two .063" thick belicranks, one ¾ " spacer bushing and two
3/32" washers on either or both ends of the crossarm when completed. The belicrank plates are shown in the
drawings. Cut four of these out and drill the correct diameter holes, then install on the crossarm ends as follows:
One washer, one plate, one bushing, another plate, another washer and two 3/8" nuts, each end. After adjusting
for snugness this second nut is tightened against the other to lock them permanently in place. The sleeve tube for
the stick clevis attachment can now be threaded from both sides for the 3/8" x ¾ “ SAE thread joint bolts. This
refers to the stick joint sleeve bushing through the front end of the torque-tube. Run threads in about ½ " from
both sides. Make the complete control stick at this time. First cut the stick to a length of 17", cut the stick crossarm
to length, center it and weld it on, then cut the lower stick arms and weld them in place; then their clevis ends.
When these have been welded make up the yoke for the attachment of the stick to torque-tube joint (see
drawings).

(15) This yoke is made from 1/8"x ¾ " bar stock. When shaped and drilled for the joint bolts (3/8" drill over each of
the two holes) braze on a 1/8" bushing. This makes about а ¼ " bearing surface for the joints bolts and will cause
less wear. Study the drawings, which should prove self-explanatory, and note that the torque-tube uses two
mounting bearings. They are made up from 1/8" x ¾ " bar stock and bushings welded together so that the bars
form an "L" shape, with the bottom of the L laying against the top of the boom, then welded in position. Use two
nuts on the ends for locking purposes as you did before on the bellcranks. If your bellcrank plates were cut out
and ground and shaped while clamped together, then drilled before unclamping, it will be easy to make up the two
connection tubes which run from the lower hole on the cranks to the lower arms on the stick assembly. Align the
holes in the bellcrank plates so that the straight line atop the plates are parallel to the side of the torque-tube. Set
the stick in the vertical position and tighten the torque-tube crossarm and stick-joint bolts so that nothing will move
while you are fitting the connection tubes. You can now place a joint of 11/16" tubing between the bellcrank and
between the ears on the lower stick clevis ends, then mark the hole locations with pencil. Get these in line and on
the same plane so the bolts will easily slide in after drilling. When the holes have been drilled and bolts installed,
loosen the nuts that had been locked and adjust for tautness, then lock the nuts again. This control assembly will
work very smoothly and work perfecty if built according to drawings.

(16) Now make the two bellcrank Ujoints. These are 6061 T6 aluminum blocks ¾ " x ¾ " x 1¼ " with ¼ " holes
drilled in both ends 180° apart, as shown. One bolt attaches them to the bellcranks and the other to the vertical
control tubes running up to the rotorhead crossarm that will be made later. Use aircraft-grade (AN) lock nuts on all
control joints. Common nuts cannot be made tight without locking controls and if left loose will come off; so use
nothing else at these joints. Don't mount the controls until the seat is in place since the seat clears both the boom
and the mast by 3 ½ ", allowing the bellcranks sufficient room to move. When positioning the torque-tube for
welding its mount bearings to the boom, the center line of the torque-tube crossarm should be 1" behind the rear
bottom tube of the seat (toward the mast). This will allow it to operate freely. You can now permanently weld the
torque-tube mount bearing bars to the boom. These can be brazed if desired and if done securely.

(17) Now build the control head. Use extreme care while building the head as all rotating parts have to run
perfectly true and square for good performance and safe flight. A metal lathe is needed for the machining and, at
the very least, an electric hand drill for the holes; however, it will be easier and more accurate if a drill press is
used. Cut the bearing case to length 1 ½ " long. From the 3/16" x 3" stock, cut off the rotor hub yoke sides 3/16" x
3" x 4" each and the hub yoke bottom which is 3/16 x 3 x 3" square. Square the ends of these pieces accurately
and to confirm the correct length. On the hub yoke bottom find the center in both directions and center punch.
Chuck this bottom in a lathe and bore the center to exactly 2" diameter. The bearing case will be centered through
this bottom as shown in the drawings and welded all around, top and bottom, with an arc welder. Be sure to
mount it straight and square. Clean off all weld spatter from the ends of the bearing case and the yoke bottom,
chuck one end in a lathe, then bore in 5/8" and to the diameter of the main bearing cup (see drawings). Repeat for
the other end. Before removing the case, move the tool bit into position to cut in about 3/32" at the corners and
about 1/16" deep. Be sure the bit is hitting all four corners, as this makes a mark for positioning the sides to keep
them true. Make a spacer from 11/16" tubing exactly 3" long after the ends have been faced in a lathe. Locate and
drill the hub yoke sides for the rocker bolt, but only after they have been clamped together accurately. Now bolt
the two sides together with the spacer tightly in between and the sides lined up, then slip this assembly down on
the hub yoke bottom to the edges of the tool bit marks on the yoke and clamp together. Tack all four corners and
remove the clamp. Arc weld both sides inside and out. If the hub yoke and bearing case are put together as
described it will be in true alignment. This will complete the rotor hub yoke and main bearing case except for the
two 1/8" x ¾ " x 3" hub rocker stop angles. (See drawings for placement.) The spindle is a small machining job
and is clearly shown in the drawings. The exploded view of the head and its assembly in the drawings should
prove self-explanatory and will makes it easy to assemble. After the spindle has been finished and the ½ " hole
drilled for the control action bolt (lateral), lay out the joint hole in the head end plates. These plates or bars are
1/8" x 1" x 4" each, and the hole to be drilled is ½ “. Drill both at the same time while clamped together. Use a new
drill bit with a lubricant for a clean hole and to make reaming unnecessary. The two stub shafts that fit between
these plates are created next, their ends turned to fit the connecting rods used as lift arms. Place the two shafts
between the end plates with the square portion flush with the ends of the plates, and with a 1/ 8" spacer on each
side of the spindle insert it in between the plates and tighten the joint bolt. To hold them more rigid, it might be
better to clamp them together until the six bolt holes for holding the head body together have been drilled. These
bolts are 3/16" diameter. After the assembly is completed, take out the shims from each side of the spindle; this
builds in the lateral-control movement stops. The fore and aft control stop lug is next and made of 1/8" x 2" x 2 ¼ "
bar steel; the length isn't critical but should be at least 2 ¼ " long. It has a slot cut out down the center except for
about 3/8" at the opposite end. This is for the fore and aft stop bolt. As the drawings show, this lug welds on one
body plate only, with the slot centered with the head body joint bolt. Arc weld this on, then clean off all weld
spatter and make sure no weld bead runs into the shaft's compartment; if it does, remove it with a file to allow the
spindle to fit freely and to work without binding. Cut a piece of 1 5/8" x .063" x 6 ¼ " long tubing. This is the lift arm
cross-tube which welds in the top of the mast (if this was not done when the airframe was built). As stated above,
the lift arms are engine connecting rods; the large ends fit the crosstube and the small ends fit the round portion
on each side of the head body. Now begin the rotor hub and pillow blocks. The hub is aluminum and is ¾ x 2 ½"
x 12". Find the center; on the side scribe a light line. Now cut the two pillow blocks to the same length (4") and
scribe one of them sidewise and lengthwise. Clamp the blocks together accurately and drill а Уг" hole through
both of them at the same time. Do this on an accurate drill press. The rocker bolt for the rotor hub goes through
these blocks. Take the rocker bolt and place it through both blocks and align them with the side of the rotor hub
and with the scribed lines matching, and clamp them securely. Locate the positions for the bolts which hold the
blocks to the hub and drill all four of them. These are bolted with ¼ " AN bolts. Use self-locking aircraft (AN) nuts.
The completed hub can now be placed in its yoke. You will note a clearance on both sides between the yoke and
the pillow blocks. Make two spacers of equal length to center the hub in the yoke. If everything has been built
accurately, these will each be ¼ " thick and are made from a piece of 13/16" heavy-wall tube drilled to ½ ". Adjust
so the rotor bearings are tight, and then loosen them just enough so the yoke turns freely. Cotter key the nut on
the spindle. Assemble the head completely, plus the hub with spacers; the two hub rocker stop angles can then
be installed. These are placed inside the hub yoke so as to have ¼ " clearance between the pillow block bolt head
on the lower side of the aluminum hub and the hub rocker stop angles. Set the yoke vertically in a vise with the
hub in place and level (horizontal); place a ¼ spacer bar under the heads on one side and the flat side of the
angle against the spacer, then clamp the angle to the side of the inside of the hub yoke and mount it with two ¼ x
¾ " bolts. After the one is in place the other will be easier since no spacer is required. Be sure the two bolt heads
strike the stop angle ends at the same time.

(18) Make up the head control crossarm assembly as shown in the drawings. The ends of this crossarm are fitted
with the same type of bolt and bushing assembly as used on the ends of the torque-tube. Leave 7/8" plus the
threads of the headless bolt extending out so that a washer, Ujoint, another washer plus an aircraft (AN) elastic
locknut will fit on each end. Otherwise use the same procedure as you did on the torque-tube ends. This crossarm
is 15/16" in diameter. Weld it and weld another piece of the same size tube to its center so as to form a T. This
tube will be 5 ½ " long and at the opposite end from the crossarm a ¾" x .058" x 2" tube is welded in which will be
pressed the lower end of the spindle. This attachment tube does not fit squarely in the end of the 13/16" but fits in
on an angle as shown in the drawings. Study the drawings; on sheet 5, part number 1 (in two drawings) and sheet
number 3, detail D, to see how this is assembled and fitted. When the assembly is mounted on the head, it must
be plumb and square and then bolted through the attachment tube and spindle with a ¼ " bolt as tight as possible
without damaging the bolt. Two more Ujoints will have to be made exactly the same as the ones used in the top of
the bellcranks. These are also fitted with clevis yoke fittings at one end while the other end of the joint fits on the
bolts at the ends of the control crossarm. One end of the joint is drilled 3/8" and the other ¼ ". The clevis ends are
be welded to the ends of the vertical control tubes extending from the belicranks to the head crossarm later, after
the machine has been balanced. Use aircraft (AN) elastic locknuts on all movable joints. All joints need to be free,
but snug. The control head can now be mounted on the mast and will be complete except for the fore and aft
control stop bracket shown on sheet 7. This cannot be installed until your machine has been balanced since the
lift arms will have to be set leaning fore or aft to find their permanent settings, then they are welded to the mast
crosstube; the fore and aft bracket can then be fit and welded in place. You cannot balance the machine until
everything has been mounted that it will carry—including the pilot and gasoline—except for the rotor blades.
When all is in place the machine is suspended from the center of the rotor hub rocker bolt and the lift arms
adjusted until the front end of the boom is pointing in the downward position at 13° (thus the need to wait to hook
up the fore and aft stop and the vertical control tubes). Balancing procedure is the same for both the B19 and
B20. The difference is that the lift arms will lean farther rearward on the B20 due to the weight of the engine.
Remove the clevis fittings on the Ujoints at the bellcranks and weld them on the ends of the two pieces of 11/16"
tubing which measure 3" to 4" longer than the distance between the bellcrank Ujoint and the one on the control-
head crossarm on the same side. Weld the clevis on one end. The vertical control tubes can now be bolted back
to the Ujoints on the bellcranks but not hooked up at the top since the machine will have to be finished and
balanced to determine where to cut them off to weld on the other clevis ends. When these are hooked up at the
top, the control stick will have to be locked in the vertical position and the bellcranks locked to prevent any
movement. This makes the bottom controls rigid in the neutral position. Now lock the control head so it is level
when looked at from the front or back with the rotor hub yoke tilted 5° to the rear. If everything has been rigidly
locked in this position, with the clevis fittings on the head crossarm and the control-tube bolted to its lower end,
the top of each vertical tube can be moved next to the crossarm clevis and a line drawn on each tube. They are
both taken off and the top clevises are welded on after the tube has been cut off square. The controls can now be
unlocked and adjusted snug but not tight. Use only aircraft grade (AN) locking nuts on all control joints.

(19) Rotor Blades. These must be made accurately and perfectly matched. The two spars are bar steel 1/8" x 1½"
х10 ft. each. Cut to the correct length. From one end measure in 20" and square a line across and another exactly
½" farther. The last line will be the location of the first wood screw through the spar into the blade. From this first
screw location center punch and stagger every 3" all the way to the end of the spar. These will be the hole
centers. Stagger all holes 3/8" from the side of the spar with a center punch. These are now ready to drill the
same size as the screw shank; use flathead ½ " No. 5 screws. After drilling, countersink all holes on the same
side of each spar. (Be careful that they are not drilled opposite each other.) When the spars are drilled and
countersunk, cut to length all four blade attachment bars to exactly 24" each. A paper tape template for hole
layout is included in drawings (may need to be accurately scaled). This is taped to one attachment bar, with the
painted end extending beyond the blade butt and then centered on the bar widthwise. There should be ¼ " of the
blade bar showing on each side and 4" extending over the butt. Now clamp two bars together evenly and drill the
nine ¼ " holes. Unclamp these two and lay one drilled bar on top of the other two undrilled bars. Using the one
drilled bar as a template, drill the other two. Scribe a line 4" inward from the end that extended over each of the
blade bars so that when bending the 4° angle, they will all have bends in the same location. Make a jig to do the
bending and heat them red hot where the bend is to be made. The use of С clamps will simplify the operation.
Once all the holes for attaching the blade bars to the blades are drilled, the same hole layout has to be made in
the spars at the butt end. Stick the shorter template, which is a piece of tape, flush with the butt end of the spar
and exactly on top; clamp rigid and drill the holes as you did in the first blade bar. Do both blade spars this way;
when finished, all holes in both spars and blade bars will match and when installed there will be nine bolt holes
plus 4" extending beyond the end of each butt end for attaching to the hub. There are three templates of stick
tape furnished, one for the blade bars and one for each spar butt. One is 24" long and the other two 20" each.
Study drawings before this fabrication. The templates are to be the exact length of the attachment bar, which
extends from one end to the other. The other two start at the butt end and extend 20" inward. After drilling,
remove all burrs and install the spars with the wood screws. Screw both in exactly alike; it is a good idea to taper
the butt ends of each blade before installing the spars. Decide which end to use for the hub end and lay them
down on their flat side. Looking from the trailing edge to the leading edge the blade should attach at the left.
Mount the spars in this manner and the blades will rotate in the right direction. If the hub end is tapered it will be
easy to see which is which at a glance. Install the spars so the bent ends of the bars angle upward. This will
create your 4° coning angle when bolted to the hub. The drilling should be done on a drill press for accuracy. After
installing the bars, drill—using the spar as a template—both outside holes through the wood blade and bolt snug.
Now run a drill down through each of the other holes through the wood, then put the other bolts in but do not
tighten until the wedge shims are slipped under the top blade bars toward the trailing side to level the bars due to
the blade-top curvature. They are slipped under and the bolts tightened. Insert a piece of ¾ " stock between the
hub attachment bar ends and check endwise to see if the top bar is tightened uniform with the bottom one. Keep
positioning these shims out or in until both are on the same plane endwise. All nine bolts can now be tightened
down permanently. Along the exposed edge of these shims drill 6 equally spaced small holes, about the size of a
shingle nail, just through the metal and drive in a shingle nail about halfway through the wood;

then clip it off. Finish driving each one down flush. This is a safety feature. NOTE: IF THE BLADES ARE TO BE
GLASSED, DO NOT ADJUST THE BLADE BARS OR INS'--THESE SHIMS UNTIL THE GLASSING IS DONE.
The blades can be flown unglassed, but we do not recommend this. This type of solid wood rotor blade should be
fiberglassed for waterproofing, splinter-proofing and for adding strength.

(20) Applying the 7 ½ ounce fiberglass Is next Cut two strips of glass cloth 15" wide and a little over 10' long. Lay
the blades on the bench bottom-side up with the leading edge extending over the side of the bench about 1 ½ ".
Place the glass on the blade, aligning its edge with the trailing edge of the place, the rest of the material draping
downward over the leading edge. When it is straight and neatly in place it is ready for the resin. Using an empty
one-pound coffee can, mix not more than half a can at a time as it might start to set up and ruin the brush and
resin. Mix well using about one capful of hardener for this amount of resin, working as fast as possible if the
weather is warm; if it is below 70°, the hardening take longer. It is good practice to test with a piece of cloth to see
how long setup requires. As the resin is brushed on you will have to hold the glass against slipping even when
brushing lightly. Start at one end, brush on plenty to soak well through the cloth, applying the resin more heavily
then if, say, varnishing. Brush from the trailing edge up to about 1" from where the curvature of the leading edge
begins. Leave this 1" strip uncoated for now so resin cannot run over the leading edge and harden; this would
make the glass stiff and there would be no way to continue working with it. When the bottom side has been
coated as described, smooth out all air bubbles and wrinkles and press the edges down smooth so there are no
humps, then let it set and harden. This will take from about 45 minutes in warm weather to perhaps as long as two
hours in very cool weather. After it has hardened, sand the trailing-edge glass flush with the edge of the blade,
mix more resin and dope the resin on around the leading edge. Turn the blade over and resin the entire top side.
Work out all wrinkles and bubbles by gripping around the leading edge and stroking down toward the trailing edge
until the glass lays snug on the blade with no humps and let harden. Complete both blades the exact same way
and then sand both smooth, top and bottom. Another coat of resin can now be applied; this will prove much easier
than the first. Sand between coats; usually three coats is sufficient. The hardware can now be installed. After all
hardware has been added, the blades are ready to be mounted to the rotor hub. Study the blade-bench layout
and notice the oblong block in the center of the bench. This block will have а ¼ " hole drilled in its center and also
down through the bench top, as shown. The aluminum rotor hub will have a ¼ " hole drilled in its center to take an
AN bolt of the appropriate length, then tightened. This holds the rotor hub in a rigid position while attaching the
blades. If the bench was made correctly, the hub will be right at the center. At both ends of the bench, block up
the blades to accommodate their coning angle so that when the blades are slipped on the hub endwise they will
not spring the bars out of shape and will go on straight. Now align the blades: Drive a small tack in the leading
edge of each blade about ¼ " from the end and tautly stretch a string between these two points. Align the blades
so the string passes directly right over the center of the bolt in the center of the hub. Clamp the bars to the hub
and drill the outside 3/8" attachment holes and bolt them tightly; then take the clamps off, drill the other two
attachment holes and bolt them in the same way. Remove the bolt holding the hub center and install a ¼ "
eyebolt, eye upward. In this eye, secure a cable or wire of sufficient strength to support the blades, then suspend
them in still air to check their balance. If one is heavier than the other, drill a 7/16" hole in the end directly over the
center of the spar, allowing the bit to penetrate to the spar and down the center, but not to hit any of the wood
screws that hold the spar. Drill to the full length of the drill bit. Now tamp plumbers' Lead Wool in the hole until
they are in perfect balance. Turn or cut a wooden plug the size of the hole, apply a good wood glue to it and into
the hole and insert the plug. When dry, cut it off with a hacksaw. The blade system is now balanced and ready for
flight except for tracking, which will be done at a fairly high-speed rotation of 10 or 15 miles per hour. Have
someone hold the stick steady, and watch the tip ends of the blade as they rotate to see if they are in the same
plane of rotation. Remember, the rotor has to be going fast as the trim tabs will have no effect at low speeds, but
are powerful at high speed. Bending a tab up a small amount will lift that blade, bending it down will drop the
blade. If tracking is off, bend one tab up a tiny bit and the other down the same amount until the rotor system is in-
track. This adjustment of the tabs should be modest and should not exceed 5° so as not to increase drag.

Here are some important and helpful hints when assembling your blades. Be sure the nose weights weigh the
same. Be sure they are set the same distance from the end of the blade. Be sure the rivets holding them on are
through the spar and not just through the wood. Install the flathead rivets with their heads up, braced from the
bottom. Keep everything as smooth as possible—especially on top of the blades to minimize wind resistance, as
this resistance will diminish the efficiency of your blades. Spray the blades with silicone spray and wipe them with
a polish cloth. This will make them slick. If small bolts are used to hold the tabs, put the nuts on the bottom.
Finally, it is a good idea to fill the space between the lead in the balancing weights and the blades themselves
with expandable foam and to then trim off the excess. This keeps the wind from blowing through these holes and
causing drag.

(21) Engine mount, rudder, pedals, pulley brackets and the accessories associated with installing the engine. The
original engine mount ring is used to mount the engine just as it was used in the nose of the target ship for which
it was designed. The supports are bolted to this ring making a very sturdy job. First cut two pieces of steel 1/8" x 1
1/2" x 6" for the mount ring bolt pads and shape these to the top of the ring by peening them in a circular shape to
fit the ring at the top and on the bottom. These are to be bolted to the ring later. Cut the two 15/16" tubes 7 1/4"
long used as the engine mount ring stand-off tubes (see drawings). These bolt pads are welded, as shown, to the
ends of these stand-off tubes. Now cut the vertical support tube (which is also 15/16" tubing) to length and this
welds to the bottom of the lower stand-off and down to the boom. Get this square or parallel with the mast as later
the gas tank will fit in the space between this vertical and the mast. When these assemblies have been made,
clamp them in place on top of the ring and (the one with the vertical) on the bottom. Clamp them straight and
square and grind the ends of the stand-off tubes and the bottom of the vertical to get a straight fit on the boom
and mast, then weld them in place. Before removing the clamps, drill one hole through each side of each mount
pad and the edge of the ring and bolt them securely together with ¼ " х ¾ " bolts. Take the clamps off and drill the
other eight holes and bolt them tight. You can use regular automotive bolts if you like, but use lock washers on
them. Install the diagonal strut extending from the top and back side of the ring to the mast top and weld it in
place. There are two holes 7/16" on each side of the ring. From the upper hole, bolt one strut on each side and
down to the rear and back seat comers. Bolt these at the ring with 3/8" x 1" bolts, so the strut will have to be
flattened for 3" and a 3/8" hole drilled. Use one flat and one lock washer under each nut. Weld the opposite ends
at the seat corners. You will see by examining the drawings there are two more small braces of 1/8" x ¾ " x 8"
bolted just below the center of the inside of the ring and extended to each side of the mast and welded there. This
completes the engine mount. Build the tank base as shown in the drawings. Instead of using ¼" rods for the tank
hold-down rods, make 16-gauge metal strips ¾" wide. They are to wrap over the tank, with a headless ¼" x 3"
bolt welded on their ends; this goes down through the tank base with a lock nut on all four bolts. The rudder
hinges are made from two pieces of 20 gauge material 2" x 2 ¼" bent in a U shape, two pieces to one hinge.
Place one short hinge tube on a 10/32 x 2 ¼" bolt and then the longer tube and, lastly, another short tube, and
bolt tight. This makes up the tubes and pin for one hinge. Now lay the two hinge U shaped pieces on something
flat with the hinge pin assembly in the center between the two metal U's with their open ends out; align and tack
braze the two short tubes to one hinge flap and the longer one at the center to the other flap and the hinge
assembly will be tacked together and ready to be brazed permanently. Make four of these hinges and equally
arrange them to the fin and rudder. All other parts necessary, such as pedals, pulley cable guides and horns,
should need no explaining as the drawings clearly show how to fabricate them. Be sure to make the mounting
tubes on the main rudder pulley guide assembly long enough to keep the rudder cables from getting tangled on
the bellcranks. Make sure these cables clear with ample space. The rudder horns when built to plan will angle
ahead so the cable eye in their ends will line up with the hinge pins as close as possible. This helps to keep the
cables from slackening when full rudder is applied. When learning to fly the machine, tilt the rotor as far back as
possible without hitting the ground and spin up as fast as possible by hand in a 7 to 12 mph wind. Hold it there
until the wind has spun it up to a good speed and it's then possible to tilt it back more by lifting up on the front end.
When no more rotor speed can be attained at this setting, start the tow at about 12 mph; the rotor will speed up to
where you can actually start neutralizing the stick and thus increase the rotor speed. Before takeoff the nose
wheel will come off the ground. Be ready to fly, for at about 5 mph more it will begin to lift off. These controls,
remember, work exactly as an airplane, so to get back on the ground push the stick ahead a bit. Be very careful
and take your time learning the control response before ever taking off.

Before Flying the B19 and B20 Gyro Сopters . . .

Never attempt to fly either the B-19 or B-20 until (1) your gyro has been fully evaluated for soundness of
construction by someone knowledgeable; e.g., a mechanic, A & P, etc.; (2) you have become completely familiar
with gyroplane flight in general and the characteristics of your B-19 or B-20 in particular; and (3) have had expert
hands-on training.

Vortech offers several important books that will provide an in-depth knowledge of the gyroplane and how they fly.
These include The Gyroplane Flight Manual, Understanding The Gyroplane and The Rotorcraft Flying Handbook.
Also available are a pair of short, but highly informative manuals: Flying the Gyroglider (such as the B-19) and
Flying the Gyrocopter (such as the B-20). You will find these (and other) books listed in our catalog, The Vortech
Flyer and at the Vortech website: http://www.vortechonline.com

IMPORTANT WARNING, WAIVER & SAFETY ALERT

The B-19/20 Gyro-Сopters presented in this manual were designed, built and flown in the late 1960s by a company that had no affiliation
with Vortech and who is solely responsible for the quality of the design and all aspects of its engineering. The Plans presented in this
manual are for an experimental aircraft. The sale by Vortech of this set of prints is for the purposes of education and amusement only and is
in no way to be construed as an endorsement, approval or certification of this design. Vortech's role is solely that of publisher. Thus,
Vortech offers no guarantee of the airworthiness or safety of any aircraft that is built wholly or in part from these prints and assumes no
liability for any injury or fatality incurred as a result of the building or flying of such an aircraft. Any person or group that builds or flies
such an aircraft does so at their own risk and, by their acceptance of these prints, expressly waives any claim against Vortech whatsoever.
This waiver shall be binding upon the heirs, Executors, Administrators and assigns of any such person or persons.

Vortech cautions that anyone undertaking the construction and/or flight of this (or any) ultralight or experimental aircraft should
obtain the assistance of a certified aircraft mechanic and welder, engineer, CFI, A&P, and/or other aircraft expert to assure the
highest level of product safety and pilot skill. No flights should be made until the mechanical operation of the craft is thoroughly
tested and understood, and then many hours should be spent becoming familiar with every aspect of the control system before any
free flights are attempted. A thorough evaluation of the safety and soundness of all components must be performed before flying.
Studies indicate that over 90% of aviation accidents and fatalities occur as a result of pilot error—accidents that could often be
averted with commonsense and a resonable degreee of alertness. We caution that you only fly when all circumstances —weather,
visibility, the flight environment, condition of the craft and of the pilot—are safe and affirmative. Always wear a helmet and
seatbelt, be alert and take all possible safety precautions when flying.