A CUTTING-EDGE MOLECULE FOR A

RADIANT SKIN TONE

v5
 THE CULTURE OF A BRIGHTER SKIN (I)

Skin brighteners use and consumers

consumers’ demand is growing worldwide.
worldwide

• In Western countries, skin brighteners are applied for the

prevention and treatment of irregular hyperpigmentation, resulting
in an evener skin tone.

• In Asia, brighter skin is a symbol of beauty and femeninity. The use

of skin brightening agents is widely extended by traditional beliefs.
o The need of whitening the skin is so high that most of anti-aging
products contain also whitening ingredients and UV filters.
 THE CULTURE OF A BRIGHTER SKIN (II)

Japan
China Sales of Whitening
30% of people use Skin products
d t are 1515-17%
17% off
Whitening products Skin Care sales

Thailand
Even more population
(60%) uses Skin
Whitening products
THE CULTURE OF A BRIGHTER SKIN (III)

Whitening and brightening

products
d t accountt ffor 60% off
new products among the top
Anti-age spots ethic beauty launches
(Mintel GNPD Beauty Innovation)

Even skin tone

GROWTH IN SKIN LIGHTENING BY MARKET

(US $ Million)
Milli )

AC Nielsen, 2007
 SKIN COLOUR

The colour of the skin and hair depends on the

amount, distribution and type of melanin.

• Melanins are pigmented biopolymers synthesised in

melanocytes in the DEJ (Dermo-Epidermal Junction).
• Melanosomes with melanins migrate and they are
transferred to keratinocytes in skin.

melanins melanins SKIN COLOUR

MELANOCYTES KERATINOCYTES
 CHANGES IN SKIN PIGMENTATION

• Typical pigmentary changes appear

during intrinsic aging and photoaging:

HYPERPIGMENTATION
melasma, freckles, age spots and senil lentigines

abnormal accumulation acute or persistent

of melanin UV exposure
 THE SEARCH FOR A NEW SKIN BRIGHTENER

• Inhibition of melanin synthesis by inhibition of tyrosinase activity.

• Tyrosinase: key enzyme of melanogenesis.

melanins SKIN COLOUR

MELANOCYTES

Need for novel skin brightening agents with increased

efficacy
ff y and improved
p safety
f yp profiles
 THE IDEAL SKIN BRIGHTENER

According to Dooley1, new depigmentation products should include the

following desirable features:

PROPERTIES
Inhibition of mammalian tyrosinase 9 (human tyrosinase)
Lack of toxicologic or mutagenic potential 9 (impeccable safety profile)
Clinical efficacy 9 (proven in vivo)
Formulation stability 9 (high stability)
Novelty and patent protection 9

PHOTOPROTECTIVE EFFECT
prevention of UV-induced skin damage

1DooleyTP. Topical skin depigmentation agents: current products and discovery of

novel inhibitors of melanogenesis. J Dermatolog Treat. 8:275-279, 1997.
 CHROMABRIGHT® STABILITY

INGREDIENT %
Tested in an O/W emulsion
Water qsp 100
Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) 10
Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7 3
CHROMABRIGHT® 0.05

120 0,06

100 0,05
ncentration (%)

Conccentration (% )
80 0,04

60 0,03
Con

40 0,02

20 0,01

0 0
0 months 1 month 2 months 3 months 4 months 6 months 3,8 5,0 8,4
Time pH
Room temp. 40 ºC
room temp 60 ºC

Chromabright® proved to remain stable after

6 months and at different pH final formulations
 CHROMABRIGHT® SAFETY

Completely safe profile:

o Ocular irritation (HET-CAM test).

o Phototoxicity.
Phototoxicity
o Cytotoxicity on human epidermal keratinocytes.
o Cytotoxicity on 3T3 fibroblasts.
o Bacterial reverse mutation test (Ames test).
o Cytotoxicity on human primary melanocytes.
o Skin sensitisation.

Chromabright® showed no signs of toxicity in any of the tests above

 CHROMABRIGHT® EFFICACY

IN VITRO
o Inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity.
9 It is the most used assay to assess potential depigmenting agents.

o Inhibition of endogenous human tyrosinase activity.

9 This assay should be considered much better than mushroom tyrosinase.

o Depigmenting effect on human melanocytes.

o Melanogenesis inhibition on human epidermal melanocytes.
o Photoprotective effect on human epidermal keratinocytes.

IN VIVO
o Skin brightening effect on human volunteers.
 IN VITRO EFFICACY (I)

1. Tyrosinase inhibition • L-Dopa (tyrosinase substrate) was digested in the

presence of 1mM Chromabright® and the enzyme.
• Absorbance variations were measured at 475 nm.
• Kojic acid 0.1mM was used as positive control.
Mushroom tyrosinase

dopachrome production
120 -20
on
% dopachrrome productio

100 0

% inhibition of
20
80
37.0% 40
60 55.5% 37% inhibition of mushroom
60
40
80 tyrosinase activity

o
20 100
0 120
Control Kojic acid CHROMABRIGHT®
(0.1mM) (1mM)

Endogenous human tyrosinase

120 -20 dopa
% dopachrome producttion

achrome produ
100 0 % inhibition of
20
80
43.0% 40
43% inhibition of endogenous
60
69.0% 60 human tyrosinase activity
40
80
o
uction

20 100
0 120
Control Kojic acid CHROMABRIGHT®
(0.1mM) (1mM)
 IN VITRO EFFICACY (II)

2. Depigmenting effect on human melanocytes cultures

% Lightening efficacy • Incubation of plated human melanocytes for 5 days.

• Daily addition of fresh medium containing 0.1mM
45 9%
45.9% Chromabright® or Kojic Acid.
Acid
50% • Kojic acid 0.1mM was used as positive control.

40% 30.2% • The lightening efficacy was assigned by counting the

cells showing melanin staining and the total number of
30% cells.
ll

20%

10%

0%
Chromabright® exhibits a better
Kojic acid CHROMABRIGHT®
(0.1mM) (0.1mM) depigmenting effect than Kojic Acid
on human melanocytes
 IN VITRO EFFICACY (III)

3. Melanogenesis inhibition on human melanocytes cultures (I)

• Primary human melanocytes (HEMn-DP) cells were seeded and

allowed to grow for 2 weeks.
120 • Melanocytes were treated on days 1, 3, 6, 8, 10, 13, 15 and 17 with:
100 o Chromabright® (5µM, 10µM, 100µM, 150µM and 200µM)
anin (pg/cell)

80 o Hydroquinone (10µM)

60 o MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) (10µM)

% of mela

40
o Kojic Acid (10µM)
o Arbutin (10µM)
20
• Control: medium without treatment.
0
• After 20 days of culture, melanin concentration was determined by
measurement of absorbance at 450nm and values were normalised
respect to the number of cells per well.

Chromabright® inhibited melanogenesis at all tested

concentrations in a dose-dependent manner
concentrations,
 IN VITRO EFFICACY (IV)

3. Melanogenesis inhibition on human melanocytes cultures (II)

By optical microscopy

Control 200µM

10µM Hydroquinone 10µM Chromabright® melanogenesis

inhibition efficacy was higher than
Similar activity at the same Arbutin, Kojic Acid and MAP
concentration, but Chromabright®
did nott presentt cytotoxicity
t t i it at the same concentration (10µM).
(10µM)

while Hydroquinone cytotoxic effect was

clearly observed, at the dosages tested.
 IN VITRO EFFICACY (V)

4. Cellular photoprotection • Test based on the determination of the protective effect of

a chemical when tested in the presence of a cytotoxic dose
of simulated solar light.
• Irradiation to cells implies a decreased uptake of the vital
dye Neutral Red (NR).

NRU photoprotection test in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes

190% increase in cell viability

Chromabright® helps to prevent the

skin-damaging effects of UV radiation.
 IN VIVO EFFICACY (I)

1. Brightening effect • Measurements were taken before application, after 30 and 60 days
of treatment.
o 20 Asian female volunteers, aged 18 to 46. • Parameters used to evaluate the effects:

o A cream containing 0.1% Chromabright® was • L* (Luminance): represents the relative brightness from
total darkness (L*=0) to absolute white (L*=100)
applied on one side of the face twice daily and
a placebo cream on the other side for 60 days. • ITAº (Individual
(I di id l Typologycal
T l l Angle):
A l ) categorises
t i skin
ki colour,
l
obtained combining L* and b* (yellow-blue colour axis)
o Evaluation: means of a Chromameter CR-300.

A cream containing 0.1% Chromabright®

induced a significant brightening effect
after 30 and 60 days
 IN VIVO EFFICACY (II)

• % clinical improvement:
2. Depigmenting effect o Score 0: 0%
o 10 volunteers, aged 18 to 70, with melasma and/or actinic o Score 1: 1-25%
lentigines applied a cream containing 0.5% Chromabright® on o Score 2: 26-50%
their face and/or hands twice a day for 60 days. o Score 3: 51-75%
o Cli i l and
Clinical d iiconographic
hi controls
t l were performed
f d att th
the S
o Score 4 76-100%
4: 76 100%
beginning of the study, and after 30 and 60 days of application.

3 50
3.50 3.40
3.11
3.00
2.50 2.20 2.11
2.00
ore

T30
0 days 30 days
Sco

1.50 T60
1.00
0.50
0.00
MELASMA LENTIGINES

80% of the volunteers with melasma and 0 days

y 60 days
y
77.8% with lentigines experienced a
significant improvement after 60 days
 COSMETIC BENEFITS

Safety & efficacy

together

Pure molecule High efficacy Photoaging Safety

in short time prevention
p

High stability Completely safe

and keeps o Significant brightening Cellular toxicological
purity of 100% effect in only 2 months photoprotection profile
demonstrated
o High depigmenting power
after 30 days
 TECHNICAL INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION
A new patented ingredient designed for skin brightening applications that
shows neither cytotoxic effects, nor any irritation or sensitisation reaction.

APPEARANCE
Powder.

INCI
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate.

PROPERTIES
It induces a significant lightening effect on the skin, at the same time that
fights against photoaging.

APPLICATIONS
Chromabright® can be incorporated in cosmetic formulations containing oil
or silicon phases where a brightening effect on the skin is desired.

DOSAGE
0.1-0.5%
 A CUTTING-EDGE MOLECULE FOR A
RADIANT SKIN TONE

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