Evaluating the Apparel

Industry in Turkey

Apparel Merchandising
End Term Submission | BFT VI

Aashna Shukla, Ahan Takkar

Kartik Garg, Saloni Yadav
Srishti Pal, Vedant
1. Introduction 2

2. Evaluating parameters 4
2.1 Costs in Turkey 4
(i) Raw materials 4
Fabric price 5
Materials price 5
(ii) Labor costs 5
(iii) Energy Resources 5
(iv) Garments: 6
(v) Logistics: 6
2.2 Quality 7
2.2.1 Quality of Skill 7
2.2.2 Quality of Raw Material (Cotton) 7
2.3 Speed of Sourcing and Buying 8
2.4 Reliability 9
(i) Economic 9
(ii) Political 9
(iii) Social 10
2.5 Infrastructure Availability 10
2.5.1 Geographical profile 10
2.5.2 Infrastructure 10
2.6 Capacity 11
2.6.1 Size and Structure 11
2.6.2 Investment 12
(i) Weaving 12
(ii) Knitting 12
2.6.3 Production 12
(i) Fibre Production 12
(ii) Fabric Production 12
Woven Fabrics 12
Knitted Fabrics 12
2.6.4 Exports 12
Export by Destination 13
2.7 Risk Assessment 13
2.7.1 Turkey Risk Rating : C3 Sensitive risk for enterprise 14
2.7.2 Business climate rating Index : A4 14

3. Conclusion 14

4. References 15

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1. Introduction
Turkey’s economic and industrial development stands on the shoulders of its modern, established,
diverse textile and clothing industry (Umar, 2021). It’s geographical location in South-eastern Europe
with its borders touching the Black Sea between Bulgaria and Georgia, and Aegean Sea and the
Mediterranean Sea between Greece and Syria, has helped it to be extremely popular among importers
in Europe and the US (Saheed, 2021). It acts as a bridge geographically, economically and socially
between Asia and Europe which helps it serve both markets. 7,200km of maritime coastline makes
export and import easier.

The textile and clothing industry in Turkey plays a crucial role in the country’s economy. It is the
country’s most important industrial Activity. In 2019 Turkey saw robust growth in GDP of 6.3% in
2021 post pandemic leaving behind all peers except China and was among the very few countries to
avoid contraction. The textile and clothing industry accounted for 8% of the country’s GDP. Turkish
clothing industry has 3.39% share in the world and 16.4% in its own economy and is the 5th largest
supplier in the world in 2019 and the 3rd largest supplier to the EU. (Textile Outlook International,
2021)

Freedom in the World 2019, Freedom House gave 5/7 in political freedom and 6/7 in civil liberties
ranking it at partly free. Political freedom is desirable when it comes to freedom to do business.
(Thomas, 2019). Turkey, which is a parliamentary democratic republic state, is greatly encouraged by
local and foreign investors. It helps by reducing investment related costs and creating a more investor-
friendly environment. These incentives include: VAT and custom duty exemption, tax deduction, social
security premium support, interest rate support, land allocation, VAT refund, and income tax
withholding support. (Saheed, 2021).

The workforce of this industry constituted 16% of its manufacturing employment in 2018. (Textile
Outlook International, 2021) and had reached 965,000 which was double from the base year of 1997
of which approximately 450,000 were in the textile sector and 515,000 in the clothing sector.
(Investment Office Turkey, 2021). In 2018, there were approximately 42,000 textile and clothing
companies in Turkey. (Turkey’s Social Security Institution, 2018)

In 2019, pre-pandemic data by WTO, ranked Turkey at 5th rank in textile exports and 7th in clothing
exports which was estimated at 27.9bn USD. Turkey’s apparel export, with its free market economy,
stand next only to its vehicle export at 9.4% of the country’s total export, of which knitwear stands at
US$ 8.8 billion (5.6% of total export) and woven at US$6.0 billion (3.8% of the total) in 2017.(Imran
et al, 2017).

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Chart 1 : Leading 5 destination countries of textiles and clothing exported from Turkey in 2018, in million U.S.
dollars

Chart 2 : Top 5 textiles and clothing products exported from Turkey in 2019, in million U.S. dollars.

2. Evaluating parameters

2.1 Costs in Turkey

(i) Raw materials
There is abundant availability of cotton in most of the middle-eastern countries. The price of raw cotton
in Turkey is lower than most of its competitors.

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 Fig 1 : Average price of raw cotton

a) Fabric price
The cost of fabrics in Turkey are usually lower than its competitors.

Fig 2: Average price of fabric

b) Materials price
Average cost of threads and labels in Turkey is higher in comparison to other countries.

Fig 3: Average price of materials

(ii) Labour costs

The labour cost of workers in the garment industry in Turkey is lower than the labour costs in countries
like Germany, Italy, India and China.

Fig 4: Labour costs

(iii) Energy Resources

The average price of Water for industrial use is higher in Turkey in comparison to its competitors.
Electricity for industrial use is cheaper in Turkey than most countries, but is higher in comparison to
India.

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 Fig 5: Cost of resources

(iv) Garments:
Cost of a Single Jersey Poly Cotton T- Shirt in Turkey after production is 3.93 USD and for the same
product in India after production is 2.06 USD. (As calculated in the SCAP assignment) Turkey has a
higher price mainly due to high labour wage and fabric price.

(v) Logistics:
Logistics performance index indicates a relative ease and efficiency with which products can be moved
into and inside a country. (Worldbank, 2021) Turkey has a lower logistics performance index rating
of 3.15 as compared to its competitors. This shows that Turkey should work on its in- country and
outside-country logistic services.

Fig 6: Logistics Performance Index

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2.2 Quality

2.2.1 Quality of Skill

Quality means value added by a special skill or any unique value addition to the product, by the
working class of a country. A good quality product which will be known for its quality reflects the
skill set and technology used behind it. Such parameters may be judged on the basis on availability of
the skilled Working class which is responsible for the innovation and product development.
The possession of a well-equipped labour force with intellectual abilities leads to increase in efficiency
hence productivity, reduced labour costs, and better quality products (Jarkas & Bitar, 2012)

This is a necessary factor since a factory is run by skilled labour and is very important for management
purposes. (Hussain, 2020)

Turkey's overall labour force is around 32.7 million people and based on the index Skill of the labour
the workforce is skilled and cost-competitive. This result is derived using the following parameters:

● Availability of skilled labour, the existence of technical training institutes in the area which
proves useful since it saves the cost of training completely unskilled labour.
● Cheaper labour is being neglected but the cost of training them is an overhead cost if only
unskilled labour wage is put into consideration.
● This indicates leaving/coming of skilled labour to a country for further development/declination
of growth of knowledge. Negative Migration rate indicates more emigrants than immigrants
which may not be very healthy for a country to have emigrating skilful assets.

Turkey offers:

● More than 6.7 million students are enrolled in higher education currently
● Over 800,000 university graduates annually
● World-class engineering education
● Improving the quality of education stands out as the principal challenge for enhancing the
quality of labour supply thus impacting the overall quality of the product.(CoHE, 2019)

Source of skilful labour is gradually increasing due to export oriented production

However, the white-collar employees including qualified managers, engineers, designers, etc. are
still limited.
In addition, the production in Turkey complies with internationally accepted ecological
standards and does not use harmful materials in dyeing.

2.2.2 Quality of Raw Material (Cotton)

The quality of cotton which is grown in Turkey is the Gossypium hirsutum 'Upland type', which has
the best features for textile production. About 30% of the cotton production is high quality long
staple cotton and the rest is of medium quality. Due to limited growth of longer staple fibre, there will
always be a need by the Turkish textile industry to import long and extra-long staple cotton. As per the
Turkish Standards, quality of fibre is judged on the following parameters , (1) fibre length, (2) colour
grades and (3) trash content, and on (4) production regions

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 Geographical Area Fibre Quality (Staple length) Name of the Variety

Aegean (1 5/32”) (Longest staple) “Fiona”, “Gloria” and “Lima”.

Çukurova (1 3/32”) “Delta Pine-BP 332”, “Lima” and “Gloria”

GAP (1 1/8”) “Stone Mill ST 468”, “Candia”, “Delta Pine

339” and “Lima”.

Fig 7 : production regions specifying cotton variety and quality.

In recent years, Turkey is one of the largest (2nd) investors in short staple spindles and open end
rotors, which are regarded as the most advanced technology in the world. Improvement in yields and
overall quality has been recorded in the past few years since the farmers have started planning the
sowing more efficiently with modern equipment and larger fields

Utilization of certified seeds with advanced hybrid qualities, estimated to be about 95 percent of total
seeds, has increased productivity. The increase in certified seed use is driven by a 10 percent higher
production bonus for certified seed users. The GOT is also increasing its efforts to combine the
fragmented, and divided lots which make up many Turkish farms. Therefore, better planting techniques
are helping farmers achieve higher yields.(The structure and characteristics of the domestic cotton market: a
macro view(4), 2021)

2.3 Speed of Sourcing and Buying

Easy Sourcing, Quicker delivery times and faster logistics result in an overall intelligent supply chain.
The best supply chains have differentiated, multi-speed fulfilment capabilities to serve each segment
which can result in inclination towards a specific location even with higher rates of manufacturing.
(Kapadia, 2019)

● Turkey has a natural geographical proximity advantage over other manufacturing locations
since many of the neighbouring countries are equipped with world’s most demanding, luxurious
and all season active markets.
● Due to abundant availability of raw materials like cotton, sourcing and starting the production
and urgent sourcing of materials is easier to strategic geographical location in terms of logistics,
the country is the gateway to European markets. Provides speed to the market offering a well-
developed vertically integrated supply chain making it a prime sourcing location.
● Faster delivery times and flexibility in the number of orders per season provides the brand with
the option to increase the number of styles and less volume orders for multiple times in one
season
● The product samples can be changed and replaced quicker and large orders can be turned around
easily at a much lesser cost.

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 Shipping to Number of Days by Sea

United States 21

Germany 15

United Kingdom 13

Spain 17

Fig 8: Time taken for delivery from turkey to top 4 destinations (Trackingmore.com, 2021)

2.4 Reliability
A country can be called reliable if the system fulfils certain aspects like-

● Social stability and wellbeing of a country - It is important for day to day living. It affects the
productivity of laborers. it is calculated by the Global social capital index. Social Capital Index
42.84 (Solability, 2020)
● Quality of life - It is also a crucial factor since it is important for healthy and quality living. It
is calculated by the Human development index. Human development Index 0.820 (Wikipedia,
2020)
● Ease of Transport - This factor takes into consideration the traffic level, time spent in traffic
and the pollution caused by the vehicles and it's important as time is money. it is calculated by
the Traffic index. Traffic Index 249.14 (Numbeo, 2021)

Manufacturing Production in Turkey increased 9.30 percent in February of 2021 over the same
month in the previous year. (Turkish Statistical Institute, 2021) Turkey was the 62nd country, globally
(India being 68th, USA 2nd and Singapore 1st) as per the World Economic Forum’s Global
Competitiveness Report. The manufacturing confidence index in Turkey declined to 110.3 in May
2021, from the previous month's three-year high of 111.0, amid a deterioration in expectations over the
next three months regarding output (125.0 vs 125.9 in April) and total employment (110.6 vs 113.7).
Meanwhile, the export orders outlook improved (121.1 vs 116.9) as economies across the globe
reopened. The general business situation index rose to 99.7 from 97.1 (Central Bank of the Republic
of Turkey, 2021)

(i) Economic
As already mentioned in section 1, In 2020 the economy was affected by the COVID-19 pandemic but
a series of monetary and fiscal measures aimed at providing a stimulus to economic activity enabled the
country to achieve a 1.1% increase in GDP during the year, to US$762 billion.

In 2018 the garment industry accounted for 8% of the country’s GDP and 16% of its manufacturing
employment. Also, textile and clothing exports are among Turkey’s most significant sources of foreign
exchange. In 2019 Turkey was the world’s fifth largest textile exporter and seventh largest clothing
exporter, and it was the third largest textile and clothing supplier to the EU. .

(ii) Political
With reference to section 1, Turkey’s liberal trade policies equipped with a highly skilled labour force,

9
helped the country to have a well-developed industry that can produce quality products. The country
has entered a customs union agreement with the EU and free trade agreements with other countries.

(iii) Social
According to reports, many children and Syrian refugees work within the Turkish textile sector, of
which some might be abused. In South East Turkey, especially in Sanlıurfa and Gaziantep, there are
factories which pay their workers below the minimum wage. The majority of the workers are
refugees. Suppliers say constant pressure by brands to reduce price undermines their ability to offer
decent working conditions and wages. (Business and Human Rights Resource Centre, 2019)

Hence, it can be said that Turkey is a reliable country for manufacturing and production, but
needs to ensure better social compliance, especially for the refugee workers.

2.5 Infrastructure Availability

2.5.1 Geographical profile

Refer to section 1 for detailed information.

Effectively, Turkey functions as a bridge geographically, culturally and economically between

Europe and Asia. Its two-continent location has played a pivotal part in serving the markets of Europe,
Asia, the Middle East and North Africa.

2.5.2 Infrastructure
One of the key targets of growth areas is that of infrastructure. The hope is to maximize the rate at which
goods can be exported to the EU, as a way to try and mitigate higher labour costs. (Textile Outlook
International, 2021)

Fig 9 : Infrastructure Network of Turkey

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2.6 Capacity
The textile and clothing industry in Turkey plays a crucial role in the country’s economy. It is the
country’s most important industrial activity.

Company Annual Production No. of Production Annual Export of Source

in pieces Lines pieces

Fetih Tekstil 7,500,000 - 5,125,000 fetihtekstil.com

Akcakaya Textile 5,000,000 - 3,676,000 akcakaya.biz

FKN Textile 302,000 - 120,800 europages.co.uk

Fig 10 : Capacity of Top Apparel companies of Turkey

2.6.1 Size and Structure

Turkey’s textile and garment industry is modern and vertical, and has production capabilities in all
sectors of the supply chain including fibres, yarns, fabrics, clothing and home textiles.

Chart 3: Textile and apparel companies in Turkey (Textile Outlook International, 2021)

Almost 70% of Turkish textile and clothing production takes place in or near Istanbul. Istanbul is
developing into a world renowned city of fashion with a growing presence of chic fashion houses with
skilled designers and trendy shopping centres. The importance of Istanbul to the textile and clothing
industry can be noted by the presence of international buying offices and trading houses. (Textile
Outlook International, 2021)
Other manufacturing regions include Adana, Bursa, Denizli, Gaziantep, Izmir, Kahramanmara, Kayseri
and Uak. Many of the integrated mills are located in Adana, Bursa, Gaziantep, Istanbul and
Kahramanmaraş. Clothing production is concentrated in the Aegean and Marmara regions. (Textile
Outlook International, 2021)

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2.6.2 Investment
Since the implementation of the customs union between EU and Turkey, overall trade has increased
four times and the Turkish textile and clothing industry have significantly benefited with the increase
in FDI. Turkish companies are now confident enough to invest due to an increase in trade with the EU.

(i) Weaving
In the Turkish weaving sector, there were 69,000 looms at the end of 2018 and in 2019 the industry
added 1,902 more shuttleless looms. This indicates modernization in the Turkish textile sector. (Textile
Outlook International, 2021)

(ii) Knitting
Approximately 803 circular knitting machines were added to the knitting sector in 2019. During 2010-
19, shipments of circular knitting machines to the industry in Turkey numbered 11,310, which
represented 3.7% of world shipments of these types of machines in that period. (Textile Outlook
International, 2021)

Foreign investors are attracted towards Turkey, and in past years it has been highly successful in
becoming a manufacturing base for foreign enterprises.
However, in 2019, FDI into Turkey declined by 35.4%, from US$13.0 billion to US$8.4 billion (World
Investment Report, 2020.)
The cause of decline was mainly due to Turkey’s weak economic performance, which was triggered by
an uncertain global economic outlook. For detailed information, see section 5.7

2.6.3 Production

(i) Fibre Production

In the 2019/20 crop year, Turkey was the world’s seventh largest cotton producing nation, where the
output of cotton during the year reached 900,000 tons. (Investment Office Turkey, 2021)

(ii) Fabric Production

a) Woven Fabrics
Woven fabric production increased by 1.0% between 2013 to 2019, from 4.29 billion square
meter to 4.33 billion square meter.(Textile Outlook International, 2021)

b) Knitted Fabrics
Knitted fabric production increased by 18.5% between 2013 and 2018. (Textile Outlook
International, 2021)

2.6.4 Exports
In the case of clothing, exports were valued to be US$15.5 billion in 2019, which represented a 4.4%
decline compared to US$16.3 billion in 2014.

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In the case of textiles, textile exports were valued to be US$12.4 billion in 2019, which represented
a 5.7% decline compared to their value of US$13.1 billion in 2014. (Investment Office Turkey, 2021)

There is also a decline due to depreciation of euro against US dollar, highlighting the fact that a large
proportion of Turkey’s textile and clothing exports goes to EU countries and is traded in euros.

Export by Destination
As we can see from chart 1, Germany was the leading destination for Turkey’s clothing exports in
2018.

2.7 Risk Assessment

Risk Rating is assessing the risks involved in the daily activities of a business and classifying them
(low, medium, high risk) on the basis of the impact on the business. It enables a business to look for
control measures that would help in curing or mitigating the impact of the risk and in some cases
negating the risk altogether. It depends on the likelihood of the risk event occurring and the severity of
the impact on the business and its employees.

Fig 11- Country Risk Rating parameter(Euler Hermes, 2019)

Fig 12 - Business Climate Assessment parameter, Euler Hermes, 2019

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2.7.1 Turkey Risk Rating : C3 Sensitive risk for enterprise

This rating is calculated by Euler Hermes after considering the (1) Economic Risks, (2) Business
Environment Risk, (3) Political Risks, (4) Commercial Risks and (5) Financing Risks

Fig 13 - Assessment result for Turkey- C3, Euler Hermes, 2019)

After assessing the above index, various deductions can be drawn-

● Vulnerable and unstable exchange rates due to external shocks impact domestic market prices.
● Less Responsive government economic policies.
● Central bank and weaker companies face a risk of refinancing from external sources after the
economy crisis in 2018-19 which was followed again by covid-19 in 2020
● Social Instability due to presence of diverse communities (Religious conservatives) with
extreme beliefs
● The above deep rooted divisions result in never ending Geopolitical risks
● Significant regional hub between Europe, MENA and Asia.

2.7.2 Business climate rating Index : A4

Business Climate rating is calculated using factors such as legal systems, availability and reliability of
growth reports and debt reports of companies.

Turkey sees constant uncertainty and has an unhealthy political approach towards the country’s
economy due to political instability. Business environment due to many troublesome weaknesses
impacts the corporate payment behaviour severely. Import dependent structure of manufacturing
impacts the economy significantly. (Coface, 2020)

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3. Conclusion
Turkey’s reputation is impeccable in the international market which can be attributed to the shift from
producer of low value to high value added items. It has moved to emphasise on fashion which catapulted
the industry forward in the women’s knitted sector. This couldn't have been possible without the
business-friendly and nurturing environment provided by the government to encourage investment. Its
geographical advantage outweighs its high labour price. Moreover, it’s geopolitical instability does not
affect its trade and investments much as its financial institutions, culture, and systems are positioned
well. This makes Turkey a comfortable and a competitive market for the apparel industry.

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