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Beauty OF F I CE H OU RS

WORTH a SHOT
Doctors are using neurotoxins like Botox
to plump lips, soften jawlines, and even extend
your blowout. Should you try it?

uring a recent appoint- LOOSEN A TIGHT JAW


ment with Manhattan Henry’s aforementioned remedy for
D dermatologist Michelle
Henry, MD, I com-
plained about my TMJ
jaw pain is to inject a neuromodulator
into the masseter muscle. “I have pa-
tients clench right before I inject so I
(aka temporomandib- can feel the bulkiest part of the mus-
ular joint syndrome) and she suggested cle, then I insert there,” she explains.
I try Botox—a treatment that’s become “The medical result is that you’re no lon-
quite common in offering temporary re- ger clenching your jaw as aggressively,
lief. While neuromodulators like Botox, but there’s also an aesthetic benefit, as
Dysport, Jeuveau, and Xeomin are typi- the muscle shrinks to create a jawline
cally used (and FDA-approved) to treat with better proportions.” Average cost:
wrinkles, they are now frequently ad- $500–$1,200.*
ministered off-label for a host of other
reasons. But is it safe?, I wondered. “A PLUMP LIPS, SANS FILLER
[drug] company can’t promote or adver- As we age, our lips begin to roll in-
tise off-label usage,” explains Manhattan ward toward our teeth, and this can
plastic surgeon Sachin M. Shridharani, cause lips to look thinner. To combat
MD. “But if a doctor sees a need and un- this, Engelman injects a small amount
derstands the drug and its dosing, he or of neuromodulator into the orbicularis
she is permitted to use it for other pur- oris muscle, which circles the mouth.
poses, but needs to explain that to pa- “This releases the lips so they go back to
tients and obtain an off-label consent.” their natural position and look fuller. It
As for risks, most doctors say they’re typ- also diminishes vertical lines around the
ically the same ones you’d face using a lips, because you can’t purse as strongly.”
neuromodulator for any FDA-approved Average cost: $300–$500.
cosmetic purpose—namely bruising,
swelling, or muscular atrophy. If the
risks run beyond those, a conscientious
doctor will share that information with
you—which is why choosing the right
injector is very important. “Training
matters,” says Manhattan dermatologist
Dendy Engelman, MD. “You want to look
for a board-certified dermatologist or
plastic surgeon, see before-and-afters of
their work, and trust your gut.” So, what
off-label uses might you benefit from?
We asked nine board-certified doctors to
share some of their most popular tricks.
—MARGAUX ANBOUBA

*All prices quoted in this story are averages, unless


otherwise noted, and vary depending on the space
of the area treated, the amount of neurotoxin used,
and regional pricing.
DIMINISH LARGE
PORES AND REDNESS
After noticing that her patients with
oily skin looked less shiny after getting
Botox, Papri Sarkar, MD, a dermatologist
in Brookline, Massachusetts, realized
the injections were tempering sebum
production. She now offers a treatment
called Micro-Botox, injecting Botox su-
perficially all over the face to diminish
excess oil. “This can make a big differ-
ence for patients with oily skin or rosa-
cea. It smooths the surface of the skin,
reduces pore size, and leaves the skin less
slick,” she explains. Since the procedure
can involve up to 100 injections, Sarkar
recommends a topical numbing cream
beforehand, adding that some patients
may experience redness and swelling
for up to 20 minutes post-treatment.
SYR I N G E AN D F RU IT: J EN N Y VAN S O M ME RS T RU N K ARC HIV E ; MO DE L: P HOTO GR A PH ED BY H EATHER HAZZAN THE LICENSING PROJECT; FRUIT BACKGROUND: NAOKO KAKUTA STOC KSY.

Average cost: $500–$1,200.

TAME FLARING NOSTRILS


When her office reopened post-quar-
antine, Beverly Hills dermatologist Ava
Shamban, MD, says she saw a significant
uptick in patients complaining about
their nostril size—the likely result of see-
ing their faces on countless video calls.
Fortunately, she had an easy fix. “I inject
Botox once on each nostril to reduce the
width and eliminate flaring. This may
also offer better nasal protection from
pollen and dust,” she explains. Average
cost: $400 and up.

TIGHTEN A SAGGY CHIN “A [drug] company can’t promote or advertise off-


As skin grows slack with age, creases label usage. But if a doctor sees a need and
and crepiness can develop on the chin. understands the drug and its dosing, he or she
“The good news is it doesn’t take much
neurotoxin to make a big impact on chin is permitted to use it for other purposes.”
dimpling,” says Corey L. Hartman, MD, a —Sachin M. Shridharani, MD
dermatologist in Birmingham, Alabama.
“I typically inject superficially at two dif-
ferent sites, targeting the muscle on the WASH HAIR LESS MD, uses neuromodulator injections in
tip of the chin that causes the skin above Botox is FDA-approved for hyperhi- the palms and soles of the feet to mini-
it to pucker. After the treatment, a pa- drosis (excessive sweating) in the un- mize perspiration and clamminess there.
tient’s skin looks smooth, and there’s no derarms, but doctors now use it to quell “There’s a rumor that the sweating will
more of that orange-peel appearance.” excess perspiration elsewhere, too. “I reroute to other areas when you get this
Average cost: $80–$130. started using Botox in the scalp 10 years treatment, but I haven’t seen that hap-
ago, and the first time I tried it was noth- pen in the 20 years I’ve been doing it,”
SLIM DOWN CALVES ing short of miraculous. It reduces the Goldman says. Average cost: $2,000.
Using a neuromodulator to refine and slim amount of sweating and oil on the scalp,
the shape of the lower legs has, historically, and it may enable you to wash your hair TAPER THE NECK
been more common in Asia than the U.S., less often,” says Manhattan dermatol- When you hold a lot of tension in the
says Manhattan dermatologist Dhaval ogist David Colbert, MD. “I use really neck, the trapezius muscle can tight-
Bhanusali, MD, but recently he’s had more tiny needles—smaller than those used en and increase in size. To alleviate dis-
conversations with patients about calf in acupuncture—with Botox, and make comfort, as well as slim a ropy neck,
slimming options. “I always warn about 21 pinpricks across the scalp. It doesn’t Shridharani injects a neuromodulator
the risks, which can include local pain, work for everybody, but 90 percent of the into “the thickest part, called the ‘muscle
tenderness, and weakening of the mus- people I’ve done it on have been happy.” belly,’” he explains. “It can be anywhere
cle. But if the patient is a good candidate, Average cost: $2,400. from 5 to 15 tiny pinpricks, depending on
it typically takes two sessions to see results. the neck size, and it may take a few treat-
I start with 20 to 30 units at the first ses- DRY SWEATY PALMS ments for the full effect. But the physical
sion, then add accordingly for the second.” Similar to Colbert’s scalp treatment, and aesthetic benefits can be quite dra-
Average cost: $600 and up per session. Manhattan dermatologist Barry Goldman, matic.” Starting cost: $1,000 per session. ▪

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