I THE UK’S #1 TRAVEL MAGAZINE

UK EDITION // MARCH 2021 // £4.95 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

GO WILD IN AFRICA’S NE W CAPITAL OF ADVENTURE:

SANDBOARD DOWN OCHRE DUNE S, SPOT RHINOS
ON A DE SERT SAFARI, SOAR OVER THE SKELETON
COA ST & CAMP UNDER THE STARS

Canada
Ride the rails through the
Rocky Mountains from
AL SACE +
B A N G KOK

Vancouver to Banff GR ANADA

Isle of Sk ye
Warrior queens, fairies &
feuding clans: Scottish legends
WIN!
A LUXURY COTTAGE
abound in the Inner Hebrides ESCAPE IN DORSET

ALSO: AUSTRALIA // BULGARIA // COLOGNE // COLOMBIA // COSTA RICA // CRUISE // GHANA // LONDON
Gwlad.Gwlad.
#CaruCymruCaruBlas

gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales
This is Wales.
#LoveWalesLoveTaste

T @FoodDrinkWales
Food_Drink_Wales
IT’S BEEN MANY MONTHS
AT HOME DREAMING
LET’S MAKE 2021 UNFORGETTABLE.
FIND YOURSELF IN TENERIFE.

WWW.WEBTENERIFE.CO.UK | TENERIFEUK@AVIAREPS.COM

VISITTENERIFE VISIT_TENERIFE VISIT_TENERIFE VISITTENERIFE


128
58 Namibia
From copper desert sands and
shipwreck-strewn coasts to
exclusive lodges and intimate
encounters with wildlife, Africa’s
southwest offers some of the
most unforgettable experiences
on the continent — here’s how to
plan your own adventure
March
2021
Contents
76 Scotland
Dramatic landscapes and age-old
legends continue to shape local
life on the Isle of Skye
86 Canada
A ride on the Rocky Mountaineer
offers a glimpse of western
Canada at its most sublime
118 Bangkok
The Thai capital is evolving into
a creative powerhouse thanks to
boho bars and design festivals Issue 90
128 Granada Deadvlei, Namib-
Against a backdrop of the Sierra Naukluft Park, Namibia
Nevada, Moorish history melds
with Andalucian tradition IMAGE: Getty
March 2021 5
 March
2021

Contents

21 44 50

SMART TRAVELLER 33 The word TRAVEL GEEKS

13 Snapshot
Life on the ranch in Argentina
14 Big picture
A field trip in frozen Mongolia
17 Adventure on your doorstep
New ways to get outdoors in North Wales
19 Green ambition
Eco-minded initiatives across Europe
21 Food
A taste of Ghana’s vibrant culinary scene
New reads for your bookshelf in 2021
146 Travel Geeks
35 Competition The experts’ travel manual
Win a voucher for a Dorset getaway
152 Bushfires
37 Author series A look at how Australians are recovering
Wade Davis on Colombia from last year’s disastrous blazes
38 Meet the adventurer GET IN TOUCH
We talk to explorer Reza Pakravan
160 Subscriptions
40 Online Make the most of our latest offer
Highlights from the website
161 Inbox
INSIDER Your letters, emails and tweets

23 On the trail 42 Weekender: Bansko 162 Your pictures

Explore Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast
25 Rooms
Cologne’s coolest new hotels
26 Family
Going from coast to coast in Cornwall
28 Inside guide
What not to miss in Byron Bay
Embrace Bulgaria’s great outdoors, from
hitting the slopes to hiking in the hills
48 Eat: Alsace
At the crossroads of France and Germany, the
region’s cuisine has a character all its own
50 Sleep: east London
Thinking of a city break in the capital? Check
in to a plush Victorian pub or hip new hotel
This month’s best travel photos
DON'T MISS
96 Cruise
After a tough year for the industry, exciting
new itineraries are being launched

31 Stay at home
A weekend fit for a queen in Windsor

G O O N L I N E V I S I T N AT I O N A LG EO G R A P H I C .C O . U K / T R AV E L F O R N E W T R AV E L F E AT U R E S DA I LY

6 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Contributors
Reza Pakravan
I wanted to cycle from Norway to Cape
Town in 100 days — I made it in 102. But that
trip ignited my dream career and those two
days don’t matter anymore. That perfection
we humans seek? It might not be attainable.
MEET THE ADVENTURER P.38
Connor McGovern
With its Tolkienesque landscapes, the Isle
of Skye quickly captures the imagination
— especially after a year spent indoors.
But dig a little deeper on this Scottish
island, and a rich history of myths and
legends will inspire anew. SCOTLAND P.76
Ben Lerwill
For a window-gazer like me, spending two
days on a slow train is an appealing prospect
in most places. But when you factor in the
Canadian Rockies, plus the possibility of
bear and elk sightings? Frankly, I had to be
prised from my seat. CANADA P.86
Stephen Phelan
Wandering the Alhambra citadel feels like a
hallucination: a vision of the Islamic Medieval
world. But even outside these walls, Granada
provides a sensation of slipping back and
forth in time, through gateways, arches and
narrow alleyways. GRANADA P.128
Justin Meneguzzi
Environmental disasters often make
the headlines, but what happens in the
aftermath? Meeting people who had lost so
much in Australia’s bushfires, I was struck by
their resilience, openness and unwavering
community spirit. BUSHFIRES P.152
8 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
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 DISCOVER HOW GREAT
THESE LAKES REALLY ARE.

Safe travels begin at michigan.org

 Editor’s
letter Covid-19
The ongoing pandemic continues
to affect travel. Please note,

I
f the dark winter months weren’t arduous enough, the prices and travel advice are
introduction of another lockdown — complete with subject to change. Contact your
travel provider for the most up-
accompanying travel restrictions — is further reason
to-date information. For the latest
to look to bright new horizons and seek moments of news on safe travel and border
sunny escapism. restrictions, visit fco.gov.uk
And where better to imagine yourself than in the vast
landscapes of Namibia? Our cover story this issue takes in
the country’s otherworldly sand dunes, pristine coastline,
desert wildlife and luxury lodges, all of which combine to
DON’T MISS
offer travellers an unmatched wilderness experience.
Picture-perfect it may be, but this isn’t a place to simply
sit back and enjoy the view. Africa’s new adventure capital
offers up a huge range of activities to lift your spirits and FOOD FESTIVAL
17-18 JULY 2021
quicken the pulse, from sandboarding, safari and
stargazing to kayaking, hiking and e-biking.
We’re championing Namibia as a destination with all the
Events
right credentials for 21st-century tourism: it’s a world Whether it’s tasting cuisines from around the
leader in community-based conservation, acclaimed for globe or exploring the world from the comfort
of your own home, we have plenty of events to
the pioneering work of its ‘rhino rangers’ and its
keep you inspired this year (p.158)
preservation of traditional tribal cultures.
As Covid-19 vaccinations continue to be rolled out,
we hope it’s only a matter of time before travel is once
again firmly within our grasp. SUBSCRIBE TODAY
PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR

@patriddell
@patriddell

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10 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
DIRT IS
GOOD.

If we want a cleaner planet as well as clean clothes, we need to roll up our sleeves and get
stuck in. That’s why Persil’s Dirt is Good Project is helping an amazing 10 million young
people take positive action on the things they care about. If you know someone who would
love to get stuck in and make a positive impact on our world, why not sign them up for our
Changemaker Academy today?

Visit natgeokids.com/uk to find out more

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 SMART TRAVELLER
What’s new // Food // On the trail // Rooms // Family // Inside guide // Stay at home // The word

SNAPSHOT

Don Daniel,
Mendoza, Argentina
Gauchos have been roaming the plains of
Argentina since the 18th century, earning
their trade by running estancias, herding
cattle, sheep and horses and living off the
land. Two hours outside the city of Mendoza,
in the shadows of the Andes, I met Daniel at
his ranch. Dressed in the classic brimmed
hat and wide-legged trousers, he saddled
up a horse and instructed me to follow him.
We clip-clopped through streams, along
ridges and through fields before rounding up
his 60 wild horses. Winding down afterwards
was done in true Argentine style: with
local wine, a traditional asado barbecue
and the screech of condors overhead.
JONJO ROONEY // PHOTOGRAPHER

jonjorooney.co.uk
@jonjorooney

March 2021 13
SMART TRAVELLER

BIG PICTURE

Lake Khövsgöl,
Mongolia
Whilst travelling for a photo feature in
neighbouring Siberia, I crossed the border
to admire Mongolia’s ‘Dark Blue Pearl’, as it’s
nicknamed. When the lake is frozen, locals
opt to sled across the surface instead of
taking the unpaved mountain tracks around
it. I was being guided by the pair in the image
for the whole trip, and as they approached
the vast expanse of black ice, I suddenly saw
the shot I wanted to get. Working gloveless
in temperatures as low as -25C, I used a small
drone to capture the lake’s awe-inspiring
pattern from above. But there’s danger in the
lake’s wintry beauty: climate change means
the surface ice melts faster than it used to,
and the lake can be unstable. The occasional
crack of the ice melting was terrifying.
ALESSANDRA MENICONZI // PHOTOGRAPHER

alessandrameniconzi.com
@alessandra.meniconzi

Winner of the People category at the Drone

Photo Awards 2020. droneawards.photo

14 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
SMART TRAVELLER

March 2021 15
 ®

PORTABLE, VERSATILE, FUN

Our award-winning portable treehouses provide increased
separation from insects, snakes and predators, while suspending
campers comfortably above wet, rough or muddy terrain,
creating a comfortable camp for all seasons.

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WA L E S
ADVENTURE ON
YOUR DOORSTEP
North Wales is taking its adventures up a notch — just in time
for Snowdonia National Park’s 70th anniversary this year
It’s no coincidence TV franchise I’m a
Celebrity... Get Me Out of Here! chose North
Wales to host last year’s series, when travel
restrictions forced producers to swap
the Australian jungle for Gwrych Castle,
above the village of Abergele. Over the past
decade, the region has positioned itself as
IMAGES: ADVENTURE PARC SNOWDONIA; THE ROCKS AT PLAS CURIG
the home of high-octane activities in some
of Britain’s most dramatic landscapes.
This corner of the country has some
showstopping spots for adventure, from
Snowdonia’s 3,560ft heights to the 500ft
depths of repurposed mines, plus inland
lakes, deep valleys and miles of rugged coast.
Crowning the region, SNOWDONIA NATIONAL
PARK celebrates its 70th birthday in 2021
with a bumper calendar of challenging
sporting events. snowdonia.gov.wales
ADVENTURE PARC SNOWDONIA continues
to innovate since its transformation from an
abandoned aluminium works in 2015. New
for this year, the site adds a new waterside
glamping site, spa hotel and open water
swimming lessons. There’s also an all-weather
track for bikers. adventureparcsnowdonia.com
Meanwhile, over in LLECHWEDD, former
slate mines now host tours journeying
500ft below ground on Europe’s steepest
cable railway, where you’ll find a vast web
of subterranean trampolines. ZIP WORLD
relaunches its ‘Skyride 2’ swing this year,
which launches five riders out over the Conwy
Valley. llechwedd.co.uk zipworld.co.uk
For bespoke adventures, NORTH WALES
ACTIVE takes groups into the wilds, this year
adding new canyons and coasteering routes
where participants get to tackle traverses with
zip-wires and Tyrolean lines. PLAS Y BRENIN
outdoor centre, meanwhile, is set to launch
25 new two- and three-day courses this
spring, covering everything from canoeing
and hill walking to climbing Snowdonia.
northwalesactive.co.uk pyb.co.uk
And if hiking is your thing, set off on OFFA’S
DYKE PATH NATIONAL TRAIL , which celebrates
its 50th birthday this year. Celebrations
will include numerous walking events and
the reopening of Offa’s Dyke Centre on
St David’s Day (1 March). offasdyke.org.uk
gonorthwales.co.uk SARAH BARRELL
SMART TRAVELLER
TAKE THREE...
NEW HOTELS
THE ROCKS
This five-star hostel in the heart of
Snowdonia National Park reopened last
month after extensive refurbishment.
Just a stone’s throw from Snowdon,
it’s perfectly positioned for active
travellers who want a bit of luxury
for less, including a new firepit, local
libations and ample bike storage. From
£28, or £200 at the Retreat, Rocks’ dog-
friendly, three-bedroom annex cottage.
therockshostel.com
THE HILTON GARDEN INN
One of North Wales’ smartest hotels
is set to open on the edge of the
inland surf lagoon at Adventure
Parc Snowdonia, with bookings from
26 March. Waves Garden Spa is the
crowning glory: an indoor-outdoor
wellness centre with benchmark spa
facilities, a restaurant overlooking the
lagoon and the Adventure Concierge
service to help guests explore
instructor-led activities. From £89.
hilton.com
GLAMPING ADVENTURE PARC
SNOWDONIA
New glamping pods set in the Parc’s
woodland and along the lagoon
shore come with underfloor heating
and sundecks, and sleep up to four
guests (one double bed, two singles).
There’s also an onsite deli, bar and
kitchen serving everything from
breakfast to burgers, pizzas and
more, in view of the surf. From £65.
adventureparcsnowdonia.com
March 2021 17

E U R O P E A N C IT I E S
GREEN AMBITION
From Finland to France, we shine a light on some
of the European cities making gloriously green
strides towards a sustainable future
Lahti
The European Green Capital 2021, 60 miles
north of Helsinki, has been busy carving
out an environmentally conscious new
identity. Aiming to become Finland’s fi rst
carbon-neutral city by 2025 (with the whole
country doing the same by 2035), Lahti’s
green initiatives range from heating systems
powered by recycled fuel to transforming the
harbourside area from old industrial port to
a thriving hub of restaurants and cafes
— perfect for soaking up the 24-hour
summer sunshine. greenlahti.fi
Oslo
Pledging to cut carbon emissions by 95% by
2030, the Norwegian capital is aiming high
with its green goals — hardly surprising in a
country already supplied almost entirely by
renewable energy. For now, at least, all eyes
are on one of its newest city developments:
the eco-friendly neighbourhood of Vulkan,
where travellers can check in to the four-
star Scandic Vulkan hotel. Powered by
IMAGES: GETTY
solar cells and geothermal energy, it was
the fi rst Norwegian hotel to gain an official
class A energy rating. greenmobility.com
scandichotel.com visitoslo.com
SMART TRAVELLER
LJUBLJANA
In October 2020,
Slovenia’s bijou capital
was included on the
2020 Sustainable
Destination Top 100
list — the only city to
be included for a sixth
time. Ljubljana’s city
centre went car-free
back in 2008, giving
locals and visitors free
access to the BicikeLJ
bike-share scheme for
up to an hour at a time.
visitljubljana.com
LEFT: View of Ljubljana, Slovenia
BELOW: Urban farms are one of the ways
the French capital is looking towards a
greener future
Vienna
One thousand of the Austrian capital’s public
water fountains are now supplied with spring
water that generates hydroelectric power en
route from the mountains. Meanwhile, its
newest eco-boutique hotel The Wood opened
in December 2020. Built from sustainable
wood, it’s found in the trendy Mariahilf
district. thewood-hotel.com wien.info
Paris
In summer 2020, the world’s largest urban
rooftop farm was unveiled on a new
exhibition hall on the outskirts of the French
capital. As the latest in Paris’ many green
initiatives, the Nature Urbaine site is the
size of two football pitches and supplies
local residents and the on-site restaurant, Le
Perchoir. en.parisinfo.com leperchoir.fr
Hamburg
Germany’s second city is on track to cut its
carbon emissions by 80% by 2050. Its new
Green Card (€19/£17 for two days) provides
visitors with unlimited travel on the harbour
ferries, buses and trains, as well as discounts
at restaurants, cafes, shops and on city tours.
hamburg-travel.com CAROLYN BOYD
March 2021 19
Attention: From November 2020 until spring 2021 operation restricted due to construction acitvity. Please check our website for further information.

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 SMART TRAVELLER

ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT

Dawadawa, also known

as iru or fermented
ZOE ADJONYOH is a
cookbook author and locust bean, is my
founder of the London-
based popup Zoe’s
secret weapon. The
Ghana Kitchen pods are cut off
the tree, the pulp is
pounded and then
dried in the sun. The
end result: an umami
rich ingredient typically
used as an aroma- or
flavour-enhancer in
stews and sauces.

A TA S T E O F in Ireland with my mother’s family. My first

Must-try dishes
(and only) cookery lesson was when dad was

GHANA
cooking his chalé (spicy tomato) sauce. He
had — fairly unceremoniously — thrown
a mix of chopped onions, chilli and curry
powder into a pan, and the smell and sizzle
was fascinating. Next, his tomato mixture
Zoe Adjonyoh shares her was sploshed in as I stood guard, and
favourite Ghanaian about 20 minutes later the splashback was
flavours and ingredients splattered with hot tomato sauce. Concerned,
I asked, “How do you know when it’s done?”
He casually walked over to the hob, looked
IMAGES: LATEEF PHOTOGRAPHY; NASSIMA ROTHACKER
KENKEY AND SARDINES
A fermented corn dumpling, wrapped
and steamed in corn husks, kenkey is
eaten with your fingers and used to
scoop stews or soups into your mouth.
My favourite way to eat it is with
sardines that have been grilled with
tomato, ginger and chilli.
GROUNDNUT SOUP

Ubiquitous across West Africa, this

My journey to, and exploration of, Ghanaian
cuisine has been led by a very personal
desire to make a connection with an aspect
of my ancestry — a people and a culture
that were largely distant in my upbringing.
Though I spent my early years in Accra, being
weaned on ‘Tom Brown’ (toasted cornmeal)
and cocoyam pottage, gurgling in baby Fante
talk, it was a long time before I returned
to Ghana in 2014. But food was my guiding
point, leading me to be reunited with those
people who first informed my palate.
While I was born to a Ghanaian father, I
spent the majority of my childhood holidays
at the splashback and explained, laughing,
“When it’s up there, it’s done!”
Another time, I remember standing next
to him as he unwrapped kenkey (fermented
corn dough) from its maize leaf casing
and released that heady fermented odour.
I watched him devouring the kenkey with
tilapia and lashings of shito (hot pepper
sauce) enviously. This is what started my
food journey — connecting with my father
and at the same time connecting with my
Ghanaian heritage.
This is an extract from Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen,
published by Mitchell Beazley (RRP: £20).
tomato and peanut butter-based stew
is traditionally served with chunks of
succulent meat or fish and accompanied
with fried plantain, rice balls, fufu or
gari (starchy side dishes). My protein of
choice is mutton or goat.
RED RED
This traditional black-eyed bean dish
is another tomato-based stew, made
with onions, ginger, scotch bonnets and
palm oil. It’s spicy, nutty and a bit acidic
from the tomatoes. Fried plantain is the
staple accompaniment, adding that bit
of sweetness to complete the flavour.

March 2021 21
FROM THE END
OF THE EARTH
SINCE 1870

BLUNDSTONE.CO.UK

ON THE TR AIL
COSTA RICA
1 CAHUITA NATIONAL PARK
Kick off in Cahuita, a laid-back
village four hours east of the
capital, San Jose. Here you’ll find
Cahuita National Park: a vast
natural playground spanning
some 2,700 land acres and 55,000
marine acres. Take the five-mile
walking trail and keep an eye
out for day-glo frogs, monkeys,
racoons, sloths and snakes; or
snorkel out from Punta Cahuita
to see a cornucopia of coral,
fish and crustaceans in the
technicolour reef.
2 PUERTO VIEJO
Next, head 10 miles south to the
high-spirited town of Puerto
Viejo, known for palm-fronded
reggae bars, world-famous
surf breaks and more than
ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE
seven miles of jungle-edged
sandy beaches. Rent a banana
bike from town, taking the
coastal road south. Stop off
at Cocles, Chiquita and Punta
Uva — looking up for sloths,
howler monkeys and capuchins
swinging from the branches.
Take a road trip on the Caribbean coast and
discover wild jungle, immaculate coastline
and a host of wildlife. Words: Cassia Geller
3 ARRECIFE
Just north of Punta Uva is
Arrecife Beach, a beautiful
palm-dotted stretch of sand.
Explore its underwater world on
a scuba-diving or snorkelling
trip with Punta Uva Dive Center,
which also offers kayaking and
standup paddleboarding. Try a
night dive during the summer
months when the dark sea
shimmers with luminescence.
Refuel with the catch of the day
at La Sirena restaurant next door.
puntauvadivecenter.com
4 THE ARA PROJECT
Birdwatchers revel in the sight of
the striking green macaws that
fly over Puerto Viejo — not least
because they’re rarely spotted
elsewhere. Their presence is
thanks to The Ara Project, which
brought the great green macaw
back from the edge of extinction.
Tour the field station — just
south of Arrecife — to make
feathered friends, from the
mighty macaw to three types of
toucan. aramanzanillo.org
SMART TRAVELLER
3
6
4
5 GANDOCA MANZANILLO
NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
A 10-minute cycle south is sleepy
Manzanillo: the ‘entrance’ to
Gandoca Manzanillo National
Wildlife Refuge. Technically,
you’ll have been in the reserve
since Cocles Beach, but this is
the start of the walking trails
into its unique ecosystems. Look
out for wildlife such as manatees,
crocodiles and caimans,
plus underwater caves and a
treehouse nature observatory.
natureobservatorio.com
6 PUNTA MONA
Manzanillo might be the end
of the road, but there’s more
DID YOU KNOW?
to explore if you’re game for As well as the vast
an adventure. Punta Mona numbers of animals,
is an off-the-grid farm, eco- insects and birds that
lodge and educational centre call the area around
offering courses in botany and Talamanca home, it
regenerative design. Reach it by also counts over 70
different nationalities
a two-hour rainforest hike from
as residents, including
Manzanillo (a guide is advised) or
the indigenous Bribri
rent a boat with a local fisherman ethnic group.
and dock on Punta Mona’s
pristine sands. puntamona.org
March 2021 23
Montenegro Wild Beauty @GoMontenegro @SeeMontenegro www.see.montenegro.travel

WO R L D
2021
UK
 SMART TRAVELLER

2 25HOURS HOTEL THE CIRCLE

Germany’s kooky, young-at-heart 25hours
brand is hardly a curveball for Cologne’s hip
hotel scene, though its curved exterior and
circle-filled rooms (from mirrors to disco
balls) sure give it a go. The bright, peppy
palette harks back to the 1960s, while the
eighth-floor Monkey Bar offers spectacular
views of the cathedral’s twin spires.
From £95. 25hours-hotels.com

3 V8 HOTEL
There are themed hotels and then there’s
the V8, which goes the whole petrolhead
hog, right down to the cars in old hangars.
Why? It’s part of Motorworld, Michael
Schumacher’s homage to cars, at Cologne’s
historic airfield. For the full experience, go
for one of the Car Suites, where you’ll share
your room with a classic motor, separated
only by glass. From £67. v8hotel.koeln

4 THE QVEST
W H E R E TO S TAY Equally cool but with very different roots is
this gothic building, which once housed the

COLOGNE
city archives. Expect eclectic rooms, from
whitewashed and modern to churchy and
flooded with light thanks to arched windows.
Modern photography and mid-century
furniture add to the impression that this
The historic German city is embracing its place is effortlessly cool — and knows it.
modern side with a raft of stylish new rooms From £81. qvesthotel.com JULIA BUCKLEY

1 URBAN LOFT KÖLN

It has world-class galleries and a titan of a gothic
cathedral, but while visitors love Cologne for its heritage,
it seems hoteliers prefer things to be altogether more
modern. Case in point: this, the first in a new offshoot
from a traditional hotel brand. Althoff Hotels — formerly
known for its ‘Collection’ properties — launched its new
project, Urban Lofts, in October 2020.
Rather than a classic hotel, this is a self-described
‘experience’. Murals swaddle the outside of the building,
while inside, wide open spaces with plenty of natural
ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR ROOM ONLY, UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED

light and bright colours (think millennial pink) vie for

your attention.
The ‘loft’ theme is subtle in the rooms, too, with faux
brick walls behind the beds, cement-grey ceilings and
doorless cupboards putting everything on display. Don’t
IMAGES: STEVE HERUD; RALPH BAIKER; JANNIS HAGELS

think this is a bachelor’s vision of an urban loft, though;

that pastel-pink palette is back in some rooms, with
more sober sky blues elsewhere.
If you aim to travel like a local, rather than a visitor,
then this is the place for you. There are rotating
exhibitions, pop-up shops and breakfast comes as a
box rather than a great buffet, so you can hit the streets
immediately. Stick around on-site, however, and things
never stray from cool: from the rooftop, the view of the
cathedral is paired with the glass expanse of the train
station, whose tracks curl round the building. Inventing
a new brand to compete with other, bigger chains feels, FROM TOP: 25hours
aptly, like a lofty ambition, but here in Cologne, you can Hotel The Circle;
see it working. From £84. urbanlofthotels.com Urban Loft; The Qvest

March 2021 25
SMART TRAVELLER
COAST TO COAST
Cornwall is set to be a family favourite again this year, and a trip to Carbis
Bay and the Lizard Peninsula takes in the best of the north and south coasts
Hit the beach
It’s not hard to see why Carbis Bay Beach is
one of the county’s seven award-winning Blue
Flag beaches — this arc of sand is surrounded
by sub-tropical plants and lapped by bright
blue sea. Just a mile east of St Ives, it faces
northeast with minimal surf, which makes it
ideal for toddlers. Further south, on the rugged
Lizard Peninsula, Polurrian Cove, Kennack
Sands and dazzling Kynance Cove are well
worth seeking out. visitcornwall.com/beaches
Ride the rails
Perhaps one of the most scenic train rides in
Britain, the journey from St Erth to St Ives may
take just 10 minutes, but it’s a breathtaking
moving picture show of coastal scenery,
sweeping sands and towering cliffs. Jump on
at St Erth, taking in Lelant, the golden sands of
Hayle Towans and Carbis Bay, before pulling
into St Ives — not bad for a £4 off-peak return.
greatscenicrailways.co.uk
Take a hike
If you’re not getting the train, take it slow
from Carbis Bay to St Ives on a coastal ramble,
appreciating the scenery and stopping off
for an ice-cream along the way. Alternatively,
a three-mile circular walk via Porthkidney
26 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
FA M I LY
Carbis Bay enjoys gentle surf, making
it the ideal family-friendly beach
RIGHT: Barbara Hepworth Museum
and Sculpture Garden, St Ives
Sands takes you alongside the railway line
high above St Ives Bay, through an area noted
for its rare wildflowers and migratory birds.
The route returns along the old pilgrim route,
St Michael’s Way. southwestcoastpath.org.uk
britishpilgrimage.org
Get cultural
Book ahead for the Barbara Hepworth
Museum and Sculpture Garden at Trewyn
Studio, where the acclaimed sculptor lived
and worked. Children will love exploring
the garden and peeking into her faithfully
preserved studio. Meanwhile, Tate St Ives
features work from the numerous artists
associated with the area, including Hepworth
as well as Naum Gabo, Alfred Wallis and Mark
Rothko. barbarahepworth.org.uk tate.org.uk
Tuck in
Porthmeor Beach Cafe in St Ives is the place
to be in the summer months. With a terrace
overlooking the eponymous beach, it’s known
for its build-your-own breakfast, as well as
the lunchtime tapas menu, which features
highlights such as salt and lemon pepper
squid with ginger dressing, and seared king
prawns with chilli. porthmeor-beach.co.uk
MARIA PIERI
WHERE TO STAY
UNA ST IVES
This eco-resort features 29 self-
catering lodges (from one to four
beds) with open-plan kitchen-
diner, a wood-burner and outdoor
barbecue facilities. It’s also home
to Una Kitchen at Una St Ives with
its menu of Mediterranean-style
dishes, such as Cornish sea bream
with pea and lemon risotto. Two-
bed lodge from £150 per night
during low season. unastives.co.uk
unastives.co.uk/una-kitchen
POLURRIAN ON THE LIZARD
Set among 12 acres of mature
landscaped gardens with views
across Mount’s Bay, this 41-room
hotel, which also has six three-
bedroom villas, has a private
beach, two pools and a health
club. It’s an ideal jumping-off
point to the South West Coast
IMAGES: GETTY
Path, with watersports at
Mullion Harbour just a 25-minute
walk away. From £119, B&B.
polurrianhotel.com
 E X P L O R E Y O U R S E N S E S
Rincón de la Vieja, Guanacaste, Costa Rica
Visit www.sensoria.cr to learn more about our tours:
Waterfalls | Thermals | Bird Watching | Forest Therapy | VIP | Weddings & Events | Private Bookings

Contact us at reservations@sensoria.cr or call +506 2228-6229

Can’t visit us?

We’ll come to you!
Visit sensorialife.com for more on nature, wellbeing & sustainability.
SMART TRAVELLER

INSIDE GUIDE

BYRON BAY
With its laid-back lifestyle, fine food and host of outdoor adventures,
Australia’s boho surf town dazzles on both land and water

With hipsters and Hollywood stars ambling down
the high street, Byron Bay’s come a long way from its
days as a quiet timber-logging town. And while the
internationally renowned Aussie hotspot can get a bit
crowded at times, the bohemian flair and sun-drenched
lifestyle of Australia’s most easterly point still manages
to lure travellers from across the globe.
Byron isn’t about tick-the-box attractions; the simple
things make for good exploring, such as walking up to
the famous CAPE BYRON LIGHTHOUSE . Volunteer-led
tours run daily for a small donation, and there’s also
a small display on indigenous Arakwal culture at the
keeper’s cottage. This stretch of coast is also popular for
humpback whale-watching in the winter months (May to
November). nationalparks.nsw.gov.au arakwal.com.au
From there, turn your gaze south towards TALLOW
BEACH and the area of Suffolk Park. It’s here you’ll fi nd
the BYRON AT BYRON resort, home to Forest restaurant,
which serves such dishes as Mooloolaba prawns
and kangaroo tartare with lemon myrtle mayo. If
you’re in the area, be sure to swing by Mexican diner
CHUPACABRA , too, for grilled fi sh tacos and a margarita.
crystalbrookcollection.com chupacabra.com.au
These aren’t the only foodie hotspots in the area
— Bryon and its surroundings have drawn some of
Australia’s best chefs thanks to lush local produce. Case
in point is THREE BLUE DUCKS , a prime lunch spot serving
up sustainably sourced fare from THE FARM , a collective
of micro-businesses. Over in the seaside town Brunswick
Heads, book ahead at 14-seat FLEET. threeblueducks.com
thefarm.com.au fleet-restaurant.com.au
For drinks, THE SURF HOUSE , which opened in July
2020, boasts Byron’s only rooftop bar, and on the same
block is photogenic favourite THE BALCONY BAR & OYSTER
CO. Located above Byron’s main drag, it’s here you’ll
fi nd the style set watching the world go by. Overlooking
Main Beach, meanwhile, BEACH HOTEL, BYRON BAY is
another popular spot, but locals love the live music
and relaxed vibe at THE RAILS bar, part of the former
train station. thesurfhouse.com.au balcony.com.au
beachhotel.com.au therailsbyronbay.com
Although the train from Sydney hasn’t pulled into
Byron in over a decade, a short disused section of track
has found new life for the BYRON BAY TRAIN — the
world’s fi rst 100% solar-powered train. It’s a favourite
with adults and kids alike, and the 10-minute ride will
take you through the mangroves to craft brewery STONE
& WOOD BREWING CO and the luxurious beachfront
hotel, ELEMENTS OF BYRON . byronbaytrain.com.au
stoneandwood.com.au elementsofb yron.com.au
Set in the hills at Skennars Head, a tour of CAPE BYRON
DISTILLERY is a must. Over the course of 30 years, the
local Brook family have restored a patch of cleared
rainforest on the site of their macadamia farm and gin
distillery. Try the sloe gin, made with Davidson plums.
capebyrondistillery.com
Still, it would be sacrilege not to get in the water at
Byron Bay, and JULIAN ROCKS, located just off the coast,
is considered one of Australia’s best dive sites — take
the plunge with SUNDIVE BYRON BAY and look out for
everything from green sea turtles to huge blue gropers.
Alternatively, head out with CAPE BYRON KAYAKS and
sea kayak your way along the shore, eyes peeled for
glimpses of whales and dolphins. But what Byron’s
best-known for, of course, is its surf breaks. Board
hire and lessons are available at schools all over town,
such as the BYRON BAY SURF SCHOOL . sundive.com.au
capebyronkayaks.com byronbaysurfschool.com
And if there’s a festival in town, the waves are
guaranteed to be packed. BYRON BAY BLUESFEST (held
every Easter weekend) has been running since 1990,
while the more alternative, indie-rock SPLENDOUR IN THE
GRASS packs out the town in winter. bluesfest.com.au
splendourinthegrass.com byron-bay.com SHANEY HUDSON

LIKE A LOCAL WATEGOS BEACH THE PASS LENNOX HEAD

I’d definitely recommend This spot is beautiful You have to jump
Cooper Chapman’s Wategos as the best and they’ve got good off the rocks to get
best surf breaks place for beginners. surf schools, too. While out at Lennox Point,
IMAGES: AMY WHITFIELD; GETTY

Not only is it a great the wave can get a little which can be quite
The pro surfer and beach, but there’s also bit faster here, five out tricky. The wave is
mental health advocate
soft wave and it gets of seven days of the week quite fast and difficult
moved to Byron Bay from
a little less swell than it’s still gentle enough to to surf for novices
Sydney. He also hosts
his own podcast, Good some of the other breaks head down there with a — you’ll want to be
Humans with Cooper because it’s so tucked-in longboard. It’s without a more experienced
Chapman. instagram.com/ there behind Australia’s doubt a really good spot surfer to have a good
cooperchapman easternmost tip. for beginners. time here.

28 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SMART TRAVELLER

The Surf House

CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT:
Stairs leading to Byron Bay
beach; Cape Byron Lighthouse;
breakfast at The Surf House

March 2021 29
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 SMART TRAVELLER

S TAY AT H O M E

WINDSOR
Historic pubs, regal attractions and countryside
strolls await in the riverside Berkshire town

Why go Where to stay DON’T MISS

Just 30 miles west of London, Windsor can Originally a 16th-century inn, Castle Hotel
claim royal ties as far back as the 11th century, Windsor’s Georgian heritage complements A tour of the
when William the Conqueror ordered the the elegant, warm decor. Keep an eye out for Queen’s back garden
construction of a castle that remains the the antiques that dot the walls, as well as the
Queen’s favoured weekend retreat. Life original dark-wooden staircase, leading to on horseback is a
outside the walls is on show in suitably regal contemporary bedrooms. From £149, B&B. must. A number
fashion: from the Changing of the Guard castlehotelwindsor.com
to the scurrying tailcoats of nearby Eton
of local centres,
College. Beyond the pictureseque town Where to eat including Tally Ho!
centre, you’ll find the rolling Windsor Great Tucked beside the castle, The Two Brewers Stables and Hacking
Park, and a beautiful stretch of the Thames serves up classic, locally sourced pub grub,
Path. Families are also well catered for with from Sunday roasts to bangers and mash. It’s Centre and Wayside
Legoland Windsor Resort, set to unveil a new been a favourite with locals since 1792. Stables, offer hacks
mythical land this spring. windsor.gov.uk If you’re venturing out to the surrounding
windsorgreatpark.co.uk legoland.co.uk countryside, opt for The George in nearby
around different
Wraysbury. twobrewerswindsor.co.uk routes in Windsor
What to do thegeorgewraysbury.co.uk
Great Park, from
The oldest and largest occupied fortress
in the world, Windsor Castle certainly We like gentle rides along
lives up to expectations. Head to the State Boat operator French Brothers organises woodland trails to
Apartments for a gilded vision of larger-than- scenic, narrated ferry tours along the
life chandeliers a nd artistic masterpieces. Thames. Join the 40-minute round trip canters for more
IMAGES: GETTY

Tickets include tours of St George’s Chapel, upstream to Boveney Lock, where you can experienced riders.
which doubles as a royal mausoleum, and catch glimpses of Eton College Chapel and
Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House, an exquisite Royal Windsor Racecourse.
tallyhostables.co.uk
reproduction of a 1920 mansion. rct.uk frenchbrothers.co.uk ANGELA LOCATELLI waysidestables.co.uk

March 2021 31

ADVANCED READER
We look ahead to some of this year’s most hotly
anticipated travel books. Words: Sarah Barrell
Islands of
Abandonment,
by Cal Flyn
This is a heartening look at
nature’s power to reclaim
abandoned places. It’s an
examination of ‘life in the
post-human landscape’,
exploring such headline-
grabbing locations as the
Chernobyl exclusion zone and the abandoned
‘Motor City’ neighbourhoods of Detroit.
There’s also a look at quieter backwaters, like
a Scottish island now populated with feral
cattle. It shows that these spots may offer
our best opportunities for environmental
recovery. (HarperCollins, £16.99)
New Yorkers, by
Craig Taylor
The author of 2011’s
acclaimed Londoners
takes another oral history
tour, this time applying
the formula to the Big
Apple, to produce a series
of revealing portraits of ‘a
city and its people in our
time’. Through terrorist attacks, blackouts,
hurricanes, recession, racial iniquity and
a pandemic, local voices loom large and
IMAGE: GETTY
resilient, shaping the story of the city that
refuses to sleep, via hundreds of interviews
that were carried out over the course of
around six years. (John Murray Press, £25)
T H E WO R D
The Border, by
Erika Fatland
This latest work from
Norwegian social
anthropologist Erika
Fatland sees her take a
trip through each of the
14 nations bordering the
world’s largest country.
An examination of Russia
from its fringes, this is an interesting way to
‘see’ a country without ever actually going into
it. And it offers up some pretty epic peripheral
vision, including North Korea, China and all
of Russia’s bordering states in the Caucasus,
crossing the Caspian and Black Seas along the
way. (Quercus Publishing, £30)
To Shake the
Sleeping Self, by
Jedidiah Jenkins
The UK release of The
New York Times’ bestseller
follows an epic adventure:
a bike trip taking in the
deserts of Mexico, small
towns in Latin America
and the wilds of Patagonia
by a young man who’d never cycled seriously
before. Jenkins sets off from his home in
Oregon and heads south — way south — in a
10,000-mile journey that reveals the meaning
of faith, the constraints of masculinity and
the painful-yet-epiphanic realities of long
hours spent in the saddle. (Rider, £10.99)
SMART TRAVELLER
Food and Aviation
in the Twentieth
Century, by
Bryce Evans
An ambitious,
academic yet accessible
investigation into what
the food service aboard
Pan American Airways,
the now legendary
mid-century airline, can tell us about North
American culture. Long before Pan Am
pioneered hot food galleys with menus
adapted for modern high-altitude flying, the
US carrier modelled its in-flight service on the
elite dining experience of luxury ocean liners.
(Bloomsbury Academic, £85)
A Walk from the Wild
Edge, by Jake Tyler
After a brush with
suicide, Jake Tyler set off
from his hometown of
Maldon, Essex, equipped
with only with a pair
of walking boots and
a small backpack. His
subsequent 3,000-mile
walk, following a long loop around the British
mainland, took Tyler away from chronic
depression and on the road to recovery, largely
thanks to his encounters with kind-hearted
strangers en route. This is a physical and
mental journey to inspire hope in even the
darkest of times. (Michael Joseph, £16.99)
March 2021 33
 A sophisticated boutique hotel nestling on a
hillside in Kalkan Bay, Villa Mahal offers a picture-
perfect view of the Lycian Coast and divine Turkish
Mediterranean. 13 tastefully appointed rooms
and suites and 4 villas are accompanied by a
breathtaking infinity swimming pool. Coupled with
Mahal Yacht, the hotel also offers sail tours for an
exclusive experience exploring Turkish Riviera.

Winner of the Conde’Nast Johansens award for

“Most Romantic Hotel” in Europe and featured
prominently in the Sunday Times Hot 100 Europe’s
Best Hotels.

www.villamahal.com
 COMPETITION

WIN

A £550 VOUCHER TO SPEND ON

A COTTAGE STAY IN DORSET
National Geographic Traveller (UK) has teamed up with
Dorset Hideaways to offer a voucher for a stay at any of
its properties
FROM TOP: Exterior of Cider Mill
cottage, near Shaftesbury; Cider Mill
cottage interior

THE DESTINATION TO ENTER

Blessed with gentle countryside, ancient
market towns and the UNESCO-listed
Jurassic Coast, Dorset offers endless
inspiration for a stay-at-home break. With
properties throughout the county, luxury
self-catering cottage company Dorset
Hideaways offers an extensive collection of
holiday homes and characterful properties,
ranging from small, intimate boltholes to
larger homes great for families or groups.
IMAGES: DORSET HIDEAWAYS CIDER MILL
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online at nationalgeographic.co.uk/
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Competition closes on 31 March 2021.
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March 2021 35

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR // WADE DAVIS
COLOMBIA
A journey along the Río Magdalena reveals a sacred tributary, the Río Claro
— a repository of stories that paints a unique picture of the country
T
here’s a tributary in the Magdalena
that runs over a bed of green marble,
passing beneath tall limestone
bluffs with caves that come alive at dusk as
thousands of guácharos (oilbirds) emerge into
the night. Spinning in the darkness, the birds
quickly disappear beyond the highest reaches
of the canopy. At dawn, they return, satiated
and weary and there’s a brief moment of
calm, soon broken by a cacophony of hoots,
whistles and screams as scores of forest
creatures awaken to herald the sun. Some
mornings one can hear the distant sound of
jungle cats, a reminder of a time, within the
memory of men, when jaguars came to this
secret forest to mate, seeking refuge in a river
valley known only to them.
As a boy, Juan Guillermo first heard of the
Río Claro from an old farmer who worked on
the family ranch. Some years earlier, this man
had set out to hunt a jaguar that had been
killing their cattle. For two months he tracked
the elusive creature, which led him deeper
and deeper into the forest. By the time they
reached the Río Claro, the hunter had lost all
desire to kill. The creature had become his
ally, and he the shadow of the cat. Emerging
from the forest, like a deer at the edge of a
clearing, he stood dazzled by all that he saw:
a riverbed of marble, limestone cliffs covered
in rare bromeliads, aroids and ferns, and,
along the shore, strange palms and flowering
trees with blossoms unlike anything he’d ever
known. Only slowly did he realise this was the
river long sacred to native peoples, a hidden
valley of spirits and witches that many spoke
about, but few had ever seen.
As he listened to the old man’s tale,
Juan Guillermo knew his destiny would be
touched by the Río Claro. In 1968, he and his
brother Jorge explored the valley for the first
time, only to learn that a new highway from
Medellín to Bogotá would run through the
forests that gave life to the river. They bought
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
50 acres in the heart of the canyon, with the
goal of ultimately creating a nature reserve
and scientific research station, along with
educational facilities that would celebrate
biodiversity, clean water and conservation.
Nothing came easily. Their father was
murdered. Jorge died in a tragic plane crash.
Juan Guillermo’s beloved daughter, an ardent
Emerging from the forest, he
stood dazzled by all that he
saw: a riverbed of marble,
limestone cliffs covered in
rare bromeliads, aroids and
ferns, and, along the shore,
strange palms and flowering
trees with blossoms unlike
anything he’d ever known
SMART TRAVELLER
conservationist tormented by the unravelling
of the natural world, took her own life at 18.
The Río Claro itself came under siege. Juan
Guillermo, long targeted for assassination
by paramilitaries of the far right, was, in
the end, kidnapped twice by the ELN, one
of the revolutionary armies of the extreme
left. Five years went by, until finally, with
the demobilisation of the paramilitaries
and the fading fortunes of the guerrillas,
he was able to return, along with his new
wife, Ximena Arosemena. Working closely
with local people, they built an ecotourism
resort widely heralded as both a biological
and spiritual marvel, the Río Claro Natural
Reserve. With the acquisition of 5,000 acres
of additional land, they created a wildlife
sanctuary for jaguars and ocelots, pumas and
all the creatures that had once thrived in the
forests of the Medio Magdalena.
Educational programmes continue to bring
children and youths from Medellín into the
wonder of the forest, where they learn about
nature from professional scientists. Among
the generous supporters of the programme
is Álvaro Cogollo, the head of Medellín’s
Jardín Botánico and one of Colombia’s
leading botanical explorers. To date, Álvaro
and his team, working with the kids from the
city, have discovered no fewer than 100 new
species of plants, all within reach of the river.
As Juan Guillermo continues to acquire
land, he never thinks of himself as the
owner of anything. To him, Río Claro is a
sacred place, a temple of nature, destined
to be protected and enjoyed by all people
for all time. Among its guardians will be a
beautiful young woman, Oriana, his daughter
with Ximena. One morning as I followed
the two of them along the river, I overheard
Juan Guillermo explaining to Oriana why
he’d never cut down a tree or knowingly
cause harm to any creature in the forest. Her
name, I later learned, was inspired by Greek
mythology, a story of divine resilience, a new
dawning, a child rising in the sky.
Wade Davis is an author, anthropologist and National
Geographic Society Explorer-in-Residence. His latest
book, Magdalena: River of Dreams, is published by
The Bodley Head, Vintage (£25).
daviswade.com
March 2021 37
SMART TRAVELLER
MEET THE ADVENTURER
REZA PAKRAVAN
The British explorer and host of The World’s Most Dangerous Borders
discusses the lessons he’s learnt documenting the lives of indigenous people
How do you prepare for your journeys?
The starting point is always a map and a glass of whiskey.
It’s the best way to start your research! Then there are
four elements to consider: mental, physical, logistical and
human. I make sure I know the right person, the right
place, and that I have access to what I want to explore.
As I’m preparing, I get so close to the subject that, by the
time I arrive, 70% of the job is pretty much done.
You’ve cycled the length of the planet, from
Arctic Norway to the tip of South Africa. What’s
the biggest lesson you learnt on that journey?
I had a near-death experience with heat exhaustion and
had to be rescued by a local tribe — my malaria-ravaged
body couldn’t cope with riding in 45C. I wanted to reach
Cape Town in 100 days for the world record, but I made it
in 102. Still, that trip ignited my dream career. It started
a life-long journey of expeditions and filmmaking, and
those two days don’t matter anymore. That perfection we
humans seek? It might not be truly attainable.
How do you nurture your mental wellbeing while
on an expedition?
I’ve lost my mind a couple of times. There’s nothing like
an expedition to strip you bear. Especially the isolation.
I distract myself, come up with emotion-focused coping
strategies and reframe the situation — I try to look at it
from a different perspective.
38 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
What’s been your most eye-opening experience?
In Chad, I came across a sexually liberated tribe called
Wodaabe. Here, a married woman can take any married
or unmarried man as a sexual partner, even if she’s
married to someone else. But there’s a condition: if the
woman then decides to leave her marriage, she has to
leave the children with the husband. There’s no stigma or
shame. The system ensures the children’s place in society
is protected while giving women maximum flexibility.
What was the most challenging moment of your
expedition across Africa’s Sahel region?
Darfur has been a no-go zone for so many years — it
had taken months of negotiations with the Sudanese
government to get permission to document the impact
of desertification on the lives of a tribe called Masalit.
But when we finally got to the border, we were taken into
custody. A few weeks prior, Omar al-Bashir [dictator and
former president of Sudan] had been toppled and the
country was in revolution, but we didn’t know this — we’d
been in remote areas. I was in prison for four days, unable
to communicate with my pregnant wife.
Where did the idea for The World’s Most
Dangerous Borders come from?
I’d spent a couple of months travelling around Lake Chad
and couldn’t believe how under-developed it was. All I’d
seen [in the West] were stories on terrorism, Boko Haram,
Al-Qaeda and civil unrest. What about the people
who call the area home? The media talks about mass
migration across the Sahelian belt, about terrorism and
killing, but what’s the root of all of that? I decided to try
answer these questions.
What’s the biggest change we need to make
as a planet?
I’m focused on documenting the impact of
environmental catastrophes on the lives of indigenous
people. The impact of climate change isn’t as tangible in
the developed world. But if you go to the Sahelian belt,
for example, you see how people’s pastures have been
completely consumed by mass desertification. We need
to see the problem as our problem and act now.
Describe what adventure means to you in
three words.
Discovering, documenting and disseminating.
INTERVIEW: FARIDA ZEYNALOVA
IMAGE: MARK GAME
RE AD THE FULL
INTERVIEW
Reza Pakravan is an ambassador for the charity SEED Madagascar. ONLINE AT
The World’s Most Dangerous Borders is available on Amazon Prime. NATIONAL
rezapakravan.com GEOGR APHIC.
@rezapakravan CO.UK/ TR AVEL
• SERIES 1 DOUBLE BUTTED CRMO FRAME
• 650B+ x 47MM WTB HORIZON TIRES
• BEYOND ROAD GEOMETRY
• WIDE RANGE 1X9 DRIVETRAIN
 ONLINE

W H AT ’ S O N L I N E

MEET GHANA’S FANTASY

COFFIN-DESIGNERS
Ernest Anang Kwei continues a family tradition of building elaborate coffins that represent
the professions, dreams or vices of the deceased. Words: Emma Thomson

Death was staring me in the face. I’d strayed
down a dusty alley off the main road in
Teshie — a coastal community on the
southeast fringes of Ghana’s capital, Accra
— past kittens pawing at scrawny chickens
and a woman sheafi ng corn. The air was
thick with the stench of smoked fish and the
rasping sounds of sawing. And, rounding
a corner, I’d come face to face with it. A
whale-sized red fish with bulging eyes and
a hollowed-out belly hungrily waiting for a
body. “The craziest coffi n I ever made was
a crocodile for a fetish priest,” said Ernest
Anang Kwei, appearing from behind the
beginnings of a wooden lorry.
Ernest belongs to a unique group of men
who have elevated death into an art form.
They build fantasy coffins — okadi adekai
in the local Ga dialect — to represent the
deceased’s professions, vices or dreams.
“Kane Kwei, my father, was the first. Back
in the 1950s, he was making furniture. His
grandmother — who’d always wished to travel
abroad but never did — died, so he crafted
her an aeroplane. Then a big-man fisherman
passed away and he was asked to carve a fish
coffin. People loved it and other commissions
followed,” explained Ernest. Today, there are
around 10 fantasy coffin workshops in Accra,
all owned by former apprentices of Kwei.
We crunch across the dirt floor littered with
golden curls of wood shavings, as if someone
had hacked away at Goldilocks’ mane. Every
object is carved by hand, mostly from the
local wawa tree; those for richer clients are
made from more durable mahogany, and the
cost varies between £300 for locals to up to
£10,000 for international clients, depending
on the level of detail and time taken for the
commission. “It’s 40% art, 60% burial,” says
Ernest. Today, the coffins are sought-after by
art collectors worldwide. Former US President
Jimmy Carter reportedly bought two from
fellow artist Paa Joe when he visited Ghana.
He leads me through the workshop where
there’s a Willy Wonka-esque collection of
caskets: a camera, a trumpet, an ice-cream
cone, a Coca-Cola bottle, a shiny black brogue,
a yellow-beaked eagle, an ear of sweetcorn,
even a colossal ant. A fine dust — remnants
of the dry north-easterly Harmattan wind
that blows across West Africa — coats their
coloured surfaces. READ MORE ONLINE AT
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

TOP
STORIE S
Here’s what you’ve
been enjoying on the IN MEMORIAM ARCHITECTURE IN FOCUS ON THE TRAIL
website this month A guide to the travel books A walking tour along Six destinations for Agatha
of Jan Morris Edinburgh’s Royal Mile Christie fans
A look at the life and works of the Discover the city’s New Town and The places that influenced the
author, historian and journalist medieval historic quarter Queen of Crime’s books

40 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 ONLINE

WHERE TO SEE DINOSAUR FOOTPRINTS B E YO N D T H E

T R AV EL S EC T I O N
AND HUNT FOR FOSSILS IN THE UK
Do you know your ammonites from your ichthyosaurs? Head out to fossil-rich
stretches of the UK coastline for palaeontology tours, bracing beach walks and quirky
museums. Words: Nora Wallaya

The very first dinosaur to be scientifically
described and named was found in
Oxfordshire. The discovery of the large
carnivore, Megalosaurus — unearthed by
geologist William Buckland in 1824
— marked a pivotal moment in our nation’s
fascination with palaeontology. The riches
of subsequent digs in the UK and overseas
have educated and amazed museum-goers
throughout the country ever since.
But there are also treasures to be sought in
the great outdoors, away from the crowds, as
the UK offers fertile ground for responsible
fossil-hunting. For example, the relics of the
Mesozoic Era are revealed by the natural
eroding of cliffs and coastlines, their stories
at constant risk of being lost to the sea.
It’s why you’ll find fervent fossil collectors
scouring beaches — take Daisy Morris, for
example. The five-year-old Isle of Wighter’s
curiosity led to her groundbreaking 2009
discovery on the island’s Atherfield Beach:
a new species of pterosaur (a flying lizard).
The prehistoric beast was thereafter named
Vectidraco daisymorrisae, in her honour.
More recently, in the summer of 2020,
suspected dinosaur footprints were revealed
by furloughed youth worker Kerry Rees
while strolling on Penarth Beach. Should
researchers confirm the new tracks, they’d
represent the third set of dinosaur footprints | E N V I R O N M E N T |
uncovered in Wales, all in the same region
— the Vale of Glamorgan. One way to fight invasive
With such exciting finds at our fingertips, species? Eat them
it’s no wonder certain parts of the UK are From lionfish crudo to pickled
sought out by those with a penchant for kudzu, these invasive species
prehistoric treasure. Read on to discover the — usually destructive and
best destinations in the UK for uncovering disdained — can also be delicious
traces of the lost world. READ MORE ONLINE
AT NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL
| S C I E N C E |

Should people take more than

one type of Covid-19 vaccine?
Recent vaccine authorisations
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY; JODY HORTON, THE HOG BOOK

foretell a world with choice.

Here’s what research says about
whether more is better for
boosting your immunity

| S P A C E |

Spectacular stargazing events

to watch in 2021
The year ahead offers many
heavenly sights, including close
planetary encounters, dazzling
meteor showers and a ‘blood
moon’ eclipse

S E A RC H F O R
N ATG E OT R AV E LU K

FAC E B O O K
I N S TAG R A M
T WITTER

MEET THE MAKER OUTDOORS IN THE UK MAKE IT AT HOME PINTEREST

The oyster king of Denmark Explorers and writers share Nine hangover cures from
On the tiny island of Venø, their favourite winter walks around the world
Kristian Borbjerggaard harvests The art of discovering new How to make the morning after
wild oysters for top restaurants adventures on your doorstep the night before a little easier

March 2021 41
 WEEKENDER

BANSKO
The Bulgarian resort is known for its winter sports, but its
lively taverns, local crafts and outdoor adventures make
for a memorable escape year-round. Words: Jessica Vincent

T
here’s something a little Brothers
Grimm about Bansko in winter.
Wooden houses rise haphazardly
from a blanket of snow, stone chimneys
send puffs of meat-scented smoke into
the air and bears, wolves and jackals prowl
the ancient pine forests. With the town’s
identity drawn from the great outdoors, it’s
little wonder it feels so atmospheric.
Clinging to the slopes of southwest
Bulgaria’s majestic Pirin Mountains, Bansko
is perhaps best known as the country’s
largest winter resort, where the savvy ski set
comes for some of the best powder east of the
Alps — at a fraction of the cost. And while
the neon-lit ‘new town’, built at breakneck
speed to accommodate the growing number
of winter tourists, can teeter towards
feeling a little overdeveloped, the old town
centre retains its charm. Tourists who tear
themselves from the pistes are rewarded
with a maze of cobbled streets, handsome
mansions and traditional taverns (known as
mehanas), where veal stews and slow-roasted
boar dominate the menus.
But when the ski season dies down, Bansko
sheds its winter coat to become an adventure
playground. Its sweeping green landscapes
are an ideal terrain for a host of outdoor
activities in the summer months, from
hiking in the hills and zip-lining above the
treetops to rafting through winding gorges.

42 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

DAY ONE CULTURE & CRAFTS
MORNING
Start the day by calling into
the hole-in-the-wall bakery on
Tsar Simeon Street for a banitsa
(Bulgaria’s beloved filo pastry
snack, laced with butter and
cheese), best washed down with
a glass of boza (a traditional
sweet-and-sour fermented wheat
drink). After fuelling up, set off
on a two-hour walking tour of
Bansko’s old town centre with
Bansko Free Tour. The route
IMAGES: GETTY; SHUTTERSTOCK
takes in the town’s key sights,
including the former homes of
local literary luminaries and the
19th-century Holy Trinity Church,
and also explores the town’s long-
standing traditions of crafts, from
masterful woodwork to weaving.
banskofreetour.com
AFTERNOON
Rest your legs with a stop at
Banski Han, an old mehana
known for its homemade
bob chorba (bean soup spiced
with paprika and mint) and
garlic parlenka (flatbread).
Afterwards, wander down to
Velyan’s House, an 18th-century
property that once belonged
to the eponymous Bulgarian
painter. It’s now an art and
history museum, decorated with
intricate wood carvings and
striking murals. If you’re looking
to pick up your own piece of local
art, head to Pirin Street, the main
drag, where craftspeople tout
their wares — colourful ceramics
and carved wooden spoons
are typical of Bansko.
EVENING
Nights in Bansko’s old town are
about two things only: wining and
dining. Settle in for a Bulgarian
feast at local institution Mehana
Obetsanova, an 18th-century
tavern where sheepskins cover
the hand-carved chairs and
waistcoated waiters glide around
the room. Take your pick from
a menu that champions meaty
mains, such as braised lamb
shanks, barbecued pork and
slow-cooked veal. From here,
amble over to Wine Bar 25 for a
nightcap. The candlelit bar serves
some of Bulgaria’s finest wines
and excellent cheese and meat
platters, which can make a
delicious dinner on their own,
especially if you’re after a light dish.
TOP 5
Mountain
adventures
RAFTING
From March to October,
following the winter
snowmelt, the river Struma
becomes an aquatic
adventure course. Rafting BG
runs whitewater rafting and
kayaking tours that follow a
7.5-mile route through the
stunning Kresna Gorge, with
rapids ranging from grades
two to four, depending on
conditions. rafting.bg
ROCK CLIMBING
Just over a mile from
Bansko, Pirin National Park
offers climbing routes for all
levels. Further afield, Vihren
peak attracts experienced
climbers with its 1,300ft
marble and limestone wall.
summerbansko.com
ZIP-LINING
There are two zip-lining
options near Bansko. The
first, operated by Rafting
BG, sends visitors flying
on a 100 metre-long line
above the raging Struma.
The second, at Mountain
Club Bulgaria in Dobrinishte,
offers a series of adult- and
child-friendly zip-line jumps
that help you gradually build
up to the highest zip-line.
planinski-klub.com/en
CANYONING
For the ultimate adrenalin
rush, don a helmet and
life jacket and take to the
Vlahina river, where you can
abseil beside waterfalls,
whoosh down natural water
slides and cliff-jump into
crystal-clear stone pools.
summerbansko.com
PARAGLIDING
Bansko’s thermal winds
make it the perfect place
to paraglide. Experienced
paragliders tend to come
prepared with their own
equipment, but newbies can
take to the skies during the
winter months on a tandem
flight with Fly Bansko.
T: 00 359 89 789 9370.
March 2021 43
WEEKENDER

THREE TO TRY

Bansko’s best
mehanas
KASAPINOVA MEHANA
This 18th-century inn once
provided food and shelter to
revolutionaries on the run.
Today, it entices hikers and
skiers with its lamb, pork
and rabbit dishes — all slow-
roasted in one of the oldest
furnaces in Bansko — and
extensive selection of wines.
kasapinova-mehana.com/en

BARYAKOVA TAVERN
One of the oldest mehanas
in town, Baryakova Taven is a
long-standing local favourite.
In winter, meats are prepared
on an open fire while diners
look on from pinewood
tables. Come summer, it gets
top marks for the breezy
verandah overlooking a
flower-filled courtyard.
T: 00 359 88 953 4582.

DEDO PENE
In the heart of Bansko’s
old town is the eccentric
Dedo Pene, whose walls are
covered with accordions,
vintage projectors and
rusty cowbells. Housed in
a 19th-century building,
the restaurant is known for
its delicious katino meze,
a traditional pork and
vegetable dish cooked in
a clay pot. dedopene.com

DAY TWO THE GREAT OUTDOORS

FROM LEFT: Autumn hiking in
Pirin National Park; colourful
detail at the UNESCO-listed
Rila Monastery
MORNING
Rise early to explore the UNESCO-
listed Pirin National Park, home
to mountains, glacial lakes and
swathes of ancient pine forest.
How you explore this outdoor
playground is up to you: in
summer, choose from a guided
hike or horse-ride to Muratovo
lake or Mount Vihren, Bulgaria’s
second-highest peak. In winter,
meanwhile, there are 30 miles
of blue, red and black slopes for
skiers and snowboarders. Before
setting off for the day, stop by
AFTERNOON
After a day in the mountains,
ease aching muscles in one of
the local baths. There are a
number of modern spas drawing
on the area’s thermal waters,
but Izgreva Hotel Complex in
Banya offers a rustic alternative.
Heated by mineral springs, its
three open-air pools are kept
between 32C and 45C degrees,
and for just seven lev (£3), you
can bask in the balmy waters
while soaking up views of the Pirin
Mountains. There’s a particular
EVENING
Once rested, it’s time to hit up
Bansko’s nightlife. Join the ski
crowds for two-for-one cocktails
and live music at après bar Happy
End, followed by a late-night DJ
set — and a karaoke session if the
mood takes you — at the indoor-
outdoor Bar 360. If you’re not into
the party scene, or you’re visiting
in the quieter summer months,
opt for a cooking class at a local’s
house (culinary experiences are
available via AirBnb). You’ll learn
to make specialities like kapama
IMAGES: GETTY

PREVIOUS PAGE, FROM LEFT:

Bansko in springtime, with
the Pirin Mountains in the
background; Pirin Street,
Bansko’s main thoroughfare
Le Petit Nicolas for sandwiches appeal during the colder seasons, (layers of meat, sauerkraut and
to go (the smoked salmon and when a plunge in the steaming rice cooked in a clay pot) and rakia,
cream cheese baguette comes stone pools requires a bracing, Bulgaria’s national tipple, made
highly recommended). barefoot tiptoe across the snow. from fermented fruit.

44 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

BEST DAY TRIPS FROM BANSKO
Whether it’s a journey through wine country or a trip to see glimpses of ancient monastic life,
most excursions from the town are easily undertaken by car or via organised tour
FOR CULTURE: RILA MONASTERY
On the forested slopes of the Rila
Mountains sits one of Bulgaria’s
most celebrated architectural
marvels. The Rila Monastery,
famed for its striking black-and-
white archways and daffodil-
yellow domes, has been home
to Eastern Orthodox monks for
more than a millennium and
was added to the UNESCO World
Heritage List in 1983. Visitors
often arrive on day trips from
Sofia, but the monastery is closer
to Bansko and can easily be
visited independently or on a tour.
For an immersive experience of
the lives of Rila monks, consider
staying the night in one of the
guest cells. rilskimanastir.org/en
FOR WINE-TASTING: MELNIK
Set amid towering sandstone
cliffs and ancient ruins, the town
of Melnik is considered Bulgaria’s
wine-making capital, having
produced wine for more than
600 years. The picturesque town
— home to just 300 people — can
be explored on a full-day
wine-tasting tour from Bansko.
As well as stops to sample the
town’s signature red, Melnik 55,
at a number of local wineries,
most tours include a visit to the
medieval Rozhen Monastery,
the Melnik Pyramids (the town’s
landmark 330ft-high sandstone
formations) and Kordopulova,
a grand house built in Bulgarian
National Revival style.
WEEKENDER
SPRING INTO
ACTION
Home to over
FOR SUN AND SEA: KAVALA
How about swapping stews for 700 natural
souvlaki? It might feel a world hot springs,
away, but Bansko is just a couple
of hours’ drive from the port of
Bulgaria takes
Kavala, sitting pretty on Greece’s some beating
Aegean coast. There’s no denying when it comes to
the appeal of the sandy beaches
and seafront restaurants along bathing. Bansko’s
this stretch of northern Greece, neighbouring
but there’s plenty more to tempt
history and architecture buffs
‘spa villages’
across the border, too. Highlights offer a variety
of a visit here include the well- of mineral-rich
preserved aqueduct and the
picturesque, pastel-coloured old experiences,
town, which is squeezed onto a from luxurious
narrow peninsula and dwarfed
by a rambling hilltop fortress.
spa resorts to
visitkavala.gr rustic pools.
MORE INFO
Bansko Free Tour.
banskofreetour.com
Mehana Obetsanova.
obetsanova.business.site
Pirin National Park. pirin.bg
Cooking classes.
airbnb.co.uk/experiences
bulgariatravel.org
HOW TO DO IT
Ryanair, EasyJet and Wizz Air
fly to Sofia from Stansted,
Luton and Gatwick. From
Sofia airport, a shared
transfer to Bansko (around
two to three hours) with Lifts
To costs £16 per person.
ryanair.com easyjet.com
wizzair.com lifts.to
Double rooms at the
five-star Kempinski Hotel
Grand Arena Bansko start
at £63. kempinski.com
March 2021 45

ALSACE
Tucked up against the German border, France’s once-contested region has
been shaped by centuries of upheaval. Today, chefs and winemakers alike are
celebrating a legacy of culinary diversity. Words: Nina Caplan
W
hen a wine-lover visits a wine
region, it’s easy to forget there’s
more to agriculture than grapes.
In July, in Colmar, the absurdly picturesque
town at the heart of the Alsace vineyards,
Petit Jean is happy to set me straight. The
27-year-old chef (whose real name is Jean
Kuentz) points out that this is girolle season,
a source of even more joy to him than ripe
grapes are to me. “I love scraping girolles,” he
says, “I could do it all day.”
At his restaurant, La Maison Rouge, those
girolles are served in a rich broth, topped
with a poached egg, as the follow-up to an
incredible slab of homemade pâté en croûte.
Luckily, Petit Jean is less monomaniacal
than me, so there’s more to follow: fresh
tomatoes and herbs, homemade pickles,
mustard sorbet and cucumber water to
balance Rhine eel and Bresse guinea fowl.
I don’t go thirsty, either: his selection of local
wines, many by the magnum, is fabulous.
46 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
E AT
I’d driven into Alsace from the north
of France, marvelling at how calm this IMAGES: STOCKFOOD; ©LEZ BROZ - VISIT ALSACE; ©OT COLMAR; WILLIAM MOYES
easterly region is; how pretty, with its walled
medieval villages and steep vineyards
topped with forests or ruined castles. Yet
nothing here has a peaceful history: the rich
soils are a result of ancient geographical
upheaval, tearing apart the Vosges and
Black Forest mountains and driving the
Rhine between. The Franco-German border
has shifted uneasily back and forth. But
uncomfortably situated as it is, fertile land
has its advantages, and the food and wine
have remained superb — whichever nation
was reaping the benefits. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
What’s surprising is how little all that Barrels of Alsatian wine
at a local vineyard; view
discomfort shows. With its half-timbered
over the medieval town
houses and cobbled streets, Alsace must be
of Riquewihr; timber
one of the best-preserved regions in Western houses flank the Quai de
Europe. It’s easy to imagine the fishermen la Poissonnerie, Colmar;
sliding their boats into the Lauch river where homemade pâté en
relaxed tourists, sipping wine, sit now. croûte, La Maison Rouge
March 2021 47
EAT
I spend a tranquil afternoon in Belvedere,
the rooftop bar of Cattin winery in
Vœgtlinshoffen, sharing a plate of excellent
local charcuterie and one of their elegant
Rieslings with Anaïs Cattin, who’s married
into the 12th generation. We look out over the
Black Forest in one direction and Colmar in
the other, discussing the drawback to living
in such a strategic location: Vœgtlinshoffen
was destroyed in both world wars.
From there, I drive into Eguisheim: another
picture-postcard village, its lanes stuffed
with little shops selling sweets and bretzels
— the dough braids we know as pretzels. But
a winemakers’ festival is in full swing in the
A TASTE OF ALSACE
LE CERCLE DES ARÔMES
This snug wine bar in the centre of Colmar has
around 180 wines by the glass, many of them
local. There’s no kitchen, but they do offer
local charcuterie, foie gras and cheese to sop
up all those wonderful wines — and those
won’t disappoint, either. Around €30 (£27)
for a bottle of wine (at the cheaper end) and
charcuterie. lecercledesaromes.fr
48 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
main square, full of tables and cheery young
men holding bottles. The village has more
than 30 wineries, despite a population of just
1,600, and several — Bruno Sorg, Christian
and Veronique Hebinger — are already
favourites of mine. But it’s Pierre-Henri
Ginglinger’s Crémant that impresses; it’s the
perfect accompaniment to a tarte flambée, the
area’s creamy, tomato-less bacon pizza.
Later in the afternoon, we head to the
Michelin-starred L’Atelier du Peintre, an
elegant restaurant in central Colmar whose
young chef, Loïc Lefèbvre, supplemented
a decade in top French kitchens with three
years in Scotland. Each dish is accompanied
LA MAISON ROUGE
Local boy Jean Kuentz went to the Michelin-
starred kitchens of Paris to learn his trade,
but here he’s more interested in ‘bistronomie’:
showcasing simple local produce through such
dishes as that pâté en croûte, and eel from the
Rhine in a sorbet of mustard and Sylvaner, a
local grape. Around €40 (£36) for two courses
without wine. restaurant-maisonrouge.com
by bountiful vegetables, herbs and flower
petals, the mackerel so strewn with tomatoes
and leaves that I initially think it’s a salad.
Alsace’s great gifts are hard-won: first,
there was the geological upheaval that
formed the region. Second, the political
tussles have made life difficult, most
IMAGES: GETTY; MARIE KUENTZ; L’ATELIER DU PEINTRE; ELPEV-CONSEILVINSALSACE
notably in terms of language. I meet people
whose first language is French but whose
parents’ mother tongue was German, while
their parents had grown up speaking the
Alsatian dialect. But great food can be a
form of communication. Whether they ask
for tarte flambée or flammekueche, the locals
understand each other.
LA ROCHETTE
In Labaroche, a 30-minute drive from Colmar,
this hotel in the hills has a restaurant with a
spectacular terrace, and a menu that artfully
demonstrates the communion of French
and German traditions. Case in point is the
matelote, a creamy stew of freshwater fish
from across the Vosges. Around €45 (£41) for
two courses without wine. larochette-hotel.fr

And then there’s the third vital fault line
in the region: religion. Once Protestantism
took hold in Germany, the country’s
Catholics had a tendency to flee towards
Catholic France; the French Protestants, on
the other hand, looked towards Germany.
They met in Alsace. The calm integration
of historical enemies seems, to me, a true
miracle. But then, when you have around 20
different types of soil, maybe you’re better at
understanding the advantages of diversity.
To this day, religion bubbles up in
some unlikely places. At Hugel winery in
Riquewihr, Jean-Frédéric Hugel explains
that the gargantuan, ovoid wooden barrels
that age the region’s wines are decorated
when the winemaker is Catholic and left
plain if the family is Protestant. Another
winemaker, Roly Gassmann, tells it slightly
differently. “Fish carved on the barrel are
Catholic,” he says, “and mermaids are
Protestant.” Don’t expect agreement in
Alsace: harmony, yes, but consensus? Never.
There’s even a little church, up above the
Rosacker vineyard, that alternates services
— an impressively amiable cohabitation I’ve
never seen elsewhere.
All that variety, thriving on superb soils:
no wonder the cuisine is so good. After all,
great cooking involves combining different
textures and flavours.
Chef Jean-Luc Brendel is obsessed with
produce in a way that makes most Alsatian
A savoury creation at
the Michelin-starred
L’Atelier du Peintre
FROM LEFT: Vines surround
a church in Alsace; a chef
prepares fish at La Maison
Rouge; tarte flambée, also
known as flammekueche
EAT
chefs look a little vitamin-deprived. My Five food finds
tasting menu at his La Table du Gourmet in
Riquewihr includes produce from his vast
garden: ingredients so full of flavour, so
inventively combined, that they could turn
a cannibal vegetarian. There’s Liquid Salad,
with beetroot and hibiscus, and kohlrabi
tagliatelle with truffle. Their colours and
crosshatched arrangements are intended
to reflect the landscape — green hills and
painted houses, crisscrossed with beams.
In his garden, Brendel, who’s held a
Michelin star since 1996, tenderly disinters
a red onion. “I can only use what I have,” he
says. “It’s up to the chef to adapt to nature; the
gardener shouldn’t adjust to suit the cook.”
For my last meal, I go downmarket, in
every sense. At Riquewihr’s Tuesday evening
open-air food market, stalls sell salads, wine TARTE FLAMBÉE
and meat, and there’s a grill available to cook Less a tart than a thin-based pizza,
on. Munching on self-scorched ribs after this substantial snack comes
Michelin-starred vegetables, I permit myself topped with a mixture of fromage
a little self-congratulation: if adaptability blanc and cream, plus lardons
is the true Alsatian language, I’ve surely and onions, and is the ideal
acquired a working vocabulary. accompaniment to the region’s
simpler white wines. You’ll also
find it called flammekueche.
EASYJET flies from Gatwick to Basel from £49
return. From the airport, take two local trains (the
TER) to Colmar. easyjet.com
Car hire is available from Sixt Rental at Basel airport
BAECKEOFFE
from £45 a day. sixt.co.uk Long ago, women would take
Hotel Le Colombier is located by the river in central this stew of potatoes, onions and
Colmar. From €110 (£100), B&B. hotel-le-colombier.fr meats marinaded in white wine
to the baker, who’d add a pastry
crust and stick it in the cooling
communal oven while the women
did their laundry. Then they’d
collect it on their way home.
RIESLING
The region’s signature grape is
almost invariably bone-dry but
can be very aromatic. Don’t get
bogged down in the befuddling
Grand Cru system — visit a wine
bar or restaurant and try a couple.
CHOUCROUTE GARNIE
Fermented cabbage is heated
with wine and served with at
least three kinds of meat (usually
bacon, salt pork and Colmar
sausages), potatoes, juniper
berries and bay leaves.
MUNSTER
This semi-hard, powerfully
aromatic cheese from the village
of the same name near Colmar
is made from unpasteurised
cow’s milk. It also has its own
quality designation, or appellation
d’origine contrôlée (AOC).
March 2021 49
 SLEEP

EAST LONDON
Hip city hangouts, revamped Victorian landmarks and local character
aplenty — memorable stays abound in the capital’s lively East End
Words: Connor McGovern

IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; FRANCIS AMIAND. RATES QUOTED ARE FOR

STANDARD DOUBLES, ROOM ONLY, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

From the Industrial Revolution to the 2012 Olympic Games, East London’s seen
it all. For decades, this corner of the capital was a byword for squalor, made
infamous by the works of Dickens and a real-life cast of nefarious characters.
But the area has worked tirelessly to reinvent itself, and after enormous (and
ongoing) regeneration, East London now provides a fascinating snapshot of a
modern and historic capital. For travellers who haven’t strayed far beyond the
centre, the East End is, in many ways, the perfect foil for the West End: gritty,
in-your-face London, a collage of cultures and neighbourhoods with a world-
beating array of arts venues, bars and restaurants to boot. Within the past
decade, hotels in and around the Shoreditch-Bethnal Green-Whitechapel
triangle have finally caught up with the times, too, offering a fun, irreverent
choice that couldn’t be found anywhere else.

50 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Best for party animals
MAMA SHELTER
‘Mama loves you’ declares a scrawl on a
mirror. Whoever Mama is, she’s always up for
a good time at this hotel on the happening
Hackney Road. The first UK outing for the
French chain is just as fun and frivolous as
its cousins across the Channel, with DJ sets,
wacky decor and even karaoke rooms for
hire. The vibe here is deliciously kitsch: all
tasselled lampshades, vintage books, giraffe
lamps and mismatched ceramic ornaments.
The bright rooms are a little more toned-
down in comparison, and come in three
sizes, each with enormous white beds you’ll
never want to leave. Service is excellent.
Stay for Beach Night on a Friday and sip
tropical cocktails in the Garden Bar to the
sound of disco beats.
ROOMS: From £105. mamashelter.com

March 2021 51
SLEEP

Best for drama queens

40 WINKS
Welcome to the Bethnal Green home of
acclaimed interior designer David Carter,
who renovated a derelict 1714 townhouse into
a ‘micro boutique hotel’ with Wonderland
panache. Somewhere between Versailles
and the set for Madama Butterfly, the decor
is exquisitely eclectic, with curios, antiques
and bold furnishings throughout. There are
just two boudoirs here (a single and a double),
which share a bathroom decked in golden
chinoiserie wallpaper, with a roll-top bath,
complete with lion’s-head tap. David himself
is the perfect host — this is a man who loves
a good natter — and welcomes guests at the
door. “The place is alive,” he says, “with the
sound of good conversation.”
ROOMS: From £115 (single) and £185 (double),
B&B. 40winks.org

Best for homebirds

LEMAN LOCKE
Need a home away from home? This haven
between the Tower of London and Brick Lane
is just that — all 22 floors of it. Tear yourself
away from the stunning city views to bask
in rooms that sit stylishly between hotel
suite and apartment, finished with a dash
of Scandi minimalism. The vibe is modestly
millennial: expect a calming palette of pastel
blue and pink, discreet in-room yoga mats
and NutriBullets, as well as huge TVs and
sleek kitchenettes that come with integrated
Smeg appliances. There’s a warm welcome at
check-in and, before you head out for the day,
don’t forget to grab one of the excellent juices
from Shaman, the ground-floor cafe.
ROOMS: From £99. lockehotels.com

52 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SLEEP

Best for social butterflies

THE BUXTON
Here’s an old pub on Brick Lane, named in
honour of 19th-century brewer and social
reformer, Thomas Buxton. It was given a new
lease of life in 2019 and now comes with 15
small but perfectly formed rooms upstairs,
each with original Victorian features
including fireplaces and whitewashed brick
walls, spruced up with fresh white decor and
locally woven blankets. Creature comforts
include Netflix, Nespresso machines and
books on the East End, while breakfast
is served on the beautiful marble bar
downstairs. Swing by for a pre-dinner drink,
too, as locals flock here most nights of the
week. And don’t forget to visit the rooftop
terrace — a funky, guests-only sun trap that
offers fantastic views across the City.
ROOMS: From £75, B&B. thebuxton.co.uk
IMAGE: VEERLE EVENS

March 2021 53
 SLEEP

Best for the stylish set

HART SHOREDITCH
Opened at the end of 2019, this chic new kid on the
block, from Hilton’s Curio Collection, is a polished
addition to a trendy part of town. There are nods
to the area’s manufacturing heritage with silks,
books and artifacts placed throughout, but it’s the
understated, softly-lit rooms that impress most: all
cream-and-rose-gold tones, with modern touches
such as Marshall amp radios. Bathrooms sparkle with
pearl-white tiles and gold fittings. Splashing out? Go
for a suite and lather up in the roll-top bath with views
of Shoreditch bustling below. There’s also a classy gym
in the basement, and a Levantine-inspired menu at
Barboun on the ground floor — a bright, airy eatery
with crimson banquettes and rattan galore.
ROOMS: From £105, B&B. hartshoreditch.com

Best for bargain-hunters Best for legal eagles Best for traditionalists
Z HOTEL SHOREDITCH COURTHOUSE HOTEL BATTY LANGLEY’S
Set just off buzzy Old Street, the affordable hotel All rise at the former Old Street Magistrates’ To call this Spitalfields sanctuary a ‘period’ hotel would
chain’s East London outpost has a smart, industrial- Court and Police Station, slap bang in the heart of be to do it a disservice; this is a full-blown waltz into
IMAGE: VIKTOR KERY PHOTOS

chic feel in the lobby, with 111 rooms upstairs.
They’re functional rather than beautiful, but are
excellent value in a notoriously pricey city, and come
with comfy beds, self-contained shower rooms and
huge Samsung TVs. But it’s all about the location
here, with some of the area’s best bars, galleries and
restaurants just minutes away.
ROOMS: From £50, B&B. thezhotels.com
Shoreditch. The Kray twins were once held here,
although the place has changed beyond recognition
since then. While the lobby is still grand, with a domed
glass ceiling and sweeping staircase, there’s now 128
spacious rooms and studios, with plush furnishings and
king-size beds. There’s even a bowling alley, pool and
cinema in the basement levels.
ROOMS: From £179. shoreditch.courthouse-hotel.com
a bygone era. Part of the small-scale Hazlitt’s hotel
group, luxurious Batty Langley’s is named for the 18th-
century eccentric and writer, and is styled accordingly:
ornate mirrors, drapes, four-poster beds and old
portraits give it a truly decadent feel. But the 29-room
hotel is far from stuffy, with places to unwind in style,
including the beautiful Tapestry Room.
ROOMS: From £207. battylangleys.com

March 2021 55
SLEEP

Best for cool kids

NEW ROAD HOTEL
Metal window frames and exposed brick
dominate the slick aesthetic at this former
textile factory off Whitechapel Road. Its 80
rooms are compact, but maximise space with
dreamy king-size beds that fill one end of the
room. Need anything? There’s no dialling ‘0’
for reception, with WhatsApp the channel
of choice to speak to the friendly reception
team. There are cool communal spaces
on each floor — a games room, coworking
library, and yoga space on the roof — and the
lobby bar pops with green velour sofas and
plush yellow armchairs. There’s a fine, steak-
heavy menu courtesy of Marco Pierre White
at Mr White’s English Chophouse, too.
ROOMS: From £89, B&B. newroadhotel.co.uk

Best for the in-crowd

THE HOXTON
It might now count eight hotels in its ever-
growing empire, but the Hoxton family’s
first member is still the place to hang out.
Walk into the effortlessly cool lobby, with
its industrial-chic decor, and you’ll quickly
see why: Shoreditch creatives tap away
busily on MacBooks, a hip, young crowd
brunches at the Hoxton Grill, and party
animals swing by for cocktails before hitting
the town. And while there’s never a dull
moment downstairs, calm and smart rooms
await upstairs, with crisp white sheets,
IMAGE: DANIEL GRAVES

leather wingback chairs and a smattering of

paperbacks to curl up with. In the likely event
the ground-floor bar’s busy and you can’t get
a seat, head upstairs to the newly launched
rooftop bar and enjoy the view with a drink.
ROOMS: From £149. thehoxton.com

56 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
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58 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
MIBIA
One of the most sparsely populated countries on Earth, Namibia is a
byword for vast landscapes shaped by fierce elemental forces. From the
blustery, shipwreck-strewn Skeleton Coast and wildlife utopia of Etosha
in the north, through the central region — home to extreme sports hub
Swakopmund and the capital, Windhoek — to the ochre dunes of
Sossusvlei and the mighty Fish River Canyon in the south, this is Africa at
its most wild and raw. The country’s offering to travellers is developing
apace: be it safari, sandboarding or camping under the stars, adventure
beckons, with new lodges and camps blossoming in remote regions. And
the nation’s fascinating indigenous history and bush lore are being
preserved and protected in captivating new Living Museums

WORDS EMMA GREGG & HANNAH SUMMERS

March 2021 59
NAMIBIA
WHERE OCEAN MEETS DUNE
The otherworldly landscapes of northwest Namibia — from the windswept dunes of the Skeleton Coast to
arid wildernesses of the Hoanib Valley — threaten to upstage both the wildlife and the remote luxury lodges
that call it home. Words: Hannah Summers
Just metres away, a week-old lion cub creeps
out from the shade and looks me straight in
the eye. Above him, red rock stretches into
a cyan sky; below him, the dusty expanse
of the Hoanib riverbed. He inches out
further before his mother uncurls from her
afternoon siesta and plucks him up with her
mouth and returns to their cave.
In a normal safari, a sighting of a pride of
just-born, desert-adapted lion cubs would
be the highlight of the day. And yet, I’m
distracted. For the first time on my trip
to Namibia, wildlife isn’t the main draw;
around me is a landscape so magnificent that
it demands my almost undivided attention.
With a population of just 2.5 million
people, and a landmass the size of France
and England combined, untouched
wilderness isn’t in short supply in Namibia.
But here in the Hoanib Valley, it takes on a
whole new meaning.
My journey here started the previous day.
I parked my rental vehicle in the village of
Sesfontein, where I was collected by Ramon,
my soft-spoken guide from the Hoanib Valley
Camp. “It’s a three-or-so-hour transfer,” he
told me. I suppressed a groan.
But what Ramon labelled as a ‘transfer’
was in fact one of the most memorable drives
of my life. First across wide expanses of
sand and shrubs, and then deeper into the
valley, following the course of a river that
comes and goes with the seasons. Several
hours later we arrived: before us, a handful
of luxurious tents scattered at the base of a
mountain. The view from my suite? A vast
stretch of butter-coloured sand with turrets
of steel-grey mountains beyond.
60 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
The landscape here explains Ramon’s
gentle demeanour. Hours from civilization,
there’s no room for loud voices or sharp
words — or any words, really. Instead, I
just want to sit and soak up everything
before me. Colours I’d previously dismissed
as plain — the browns and the beiges
— take on a dazzling new look of saffron
and scarlet as I meditate upon them. It’s
utterly captivating.
For three days, I revel in its raw glory, the
hours punctuated by sightings of lone black
rhinos, shy giraffes and hundreds of gnarly
trees and spiky bushes that have adapted to
life in this sun-scorched environment.
It’s hard to imagine the ocean is just
beyond the mountains, 40 miles away. It’s
a seven-hour direct drive, taken on by only
the most intrepid of travellers — and stories
of people getting lost for days convince me
to take a slower, clearer road. Eventually,
the wheels crunch down a gravel strip that
runs parallel to one of the most treacherous
shores in the world: the Skeleton Coast.
On most days, the sun-bleached bones of
whales and the rusty shells of shipwrecks
and planes would sit beneath a low blanket
of fog. But today, a bright blue sky makes the
tumbling waves an inviting turquoise. I park
up at Mowe Bay and wait for a more capable
driver to shuttle me along the final stretch.
At Shipwreck Lodge, our guide, Shiimi,
greets us with a smile before taking us out on
the lodge’s high-speed quad bikes. We set off,
accelerating up dunes so high and steep I feel
like I’m hurtling into the sky. We reach the
ridge and swoop down the other side. Miles
and miles of golden sand spread out in front
of us; the Kaokoveld, or ‘coast of loneliness’
in local Herero language, stretches beyond.
But there are more docile ways to take in
this lodge’s remote setting, which sits at the
mouth of the Hoarusib River. At the lodge, 10
cabins, designed in the style of shipwrecks,
run parallel to the ocean and are cosily
kitted out with wood-burning stoves.
Shiimi and I pitch up on the edge of the
beach where a barbecued feast is laid out
beside an audience of playful seals. Later,
I strap myself into a seat on the roof of a
jeep while Shiimi navigates the coastline,
stopping to point out the remnants of the
ships that ran aground on these formidable
shores, and the jackals and hyenas that
IMAGES: SHAWN VAN EEDEN; SLAWEK KOZDRAS; PREVIOUS PAGES: SLAWEK KOZDRAS
scavenge here for food. “To see this landscape
— the ocean and the dunes — roll into one is
what makes this place so special for me,” he
tells us. “This place soothes my soul.”
I agree. The following morning, I wrap
myself in a blanket to shield myself from the
worst of the bracing Benguela Current breeze,
sit back on a seat on my outside deck, and
sip coffee to a soundtrack of pounding waves
and wind whipping through the dunes. In
the local Nama language, the word ‘Namib’
translates to ‘vast place of nothingness’.
And I wouldn’t wish for anything more.
HOW TO DO IT: Abercrombie & Kent offers a
12-night ‘Discover Namibia’ trip from £3,995
per person (based on two sharing), including
stays at Hoanib Valley Camp and Shipwreck
Lodge, flights, car hire, private transfers,
safari costs on a full-board basis and
international flights. abercrombiekent.co.uk
shipwrecklodge.com.na
 NAMIBIA

Shipwreck Lodge offers 10 eco-cabins

designed to look like washed-ashore
boats, Skeleton Coast
CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: Hikers
explore deadvlei, a white clay
pan near Sossusvlei, in the central
region of the Namib desert; an oryx,
Namibia’s national animal
PREVIOUS PAGES: Climbing the
towering Dune 45, Sossusvlei

March 2021 61
NAMIBIA

Sossusvlei Dunes from above

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE:
Fish River Canyon, the
largest canyon in Africa;
sandboarding down the
dunes in Swakopmund

62 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

ULTIMATE ADVENTURES
FOR EVERY ABILITY
Namibia’s dramatic landscapes lend themselves to bucket-list experiences, from world-class hikes to hot air
balloon rides. Here’s how to match your activities to your mettle
Hiking the Fish River
Canyon Trail
More than 650 million years in the making,
Fish River Canyon is Africa’s mightiest gorge.
Snaking through weathered layers of cocoa-
coloured sandstone, dolomite and gneiss, it
dominates the arid northeastern reaches of
the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park,
along the border with South Africa.
Visitors can drink in the canyon’s stark
drama from Fish River Lodge, whose
luxurious contemporary chalets perch on the
rim, or from the public viewpoints. However,
the most exciting way to experience this
exceptional location is to tackle the classic
55-mile, five-day hike from Hobas to Ai-Ais
Springs, wild camping on the way.
While it offers epic scenery, starry nights
and a true sense of adventure, it’s not exactly
a breeze: you’ll be on your feet for up to eight
hours each day, crossing rocky terrain with a
backpack loaded with gear, food and water.
The toughest challenge comes near the start:
a two-hour descent from the rim to the floor.
Over the following days, there are boulders
to negotiate and shallow waters to wade
through. Barren as your surroundings
may appear, you’ll be sharing them with
wild animals: klipspringers, hyraxes and
Hartmann’s mountain zebras occasionally
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; GETTY; ROGER BORGELID
materialise, only to vanish among the rocks.
Permission to hike the Fish River Canyon
trail and stay at the lodges and campsites
needs to be booked in advance with Namibia
Wildlife Resorts. The trail is only open
from May to mid-September. nwr.com.na
fishriverlodge-namibia.com
E-biking in a desert reserve
On the rubble-strewn,
mountain-fringed plain that is the Sossusvlei
Private Desert Reserve, two looping tracks
— one seven miles, the other 12 miles
— invite you to explore by e-bike, either
independently or with one of the reserve’s
guides. Plants and animals are scarce in this
pristine region, so every sighting feels like a
gift. andbeyond.com
River and ocean kayaking
Namibia’s river kayaking
locations couldn’t be further apart: the
Orange River marks the border with South
Africa in the south, while the Kunene
borders Angola in the north. The Orange is
a relatively gentle option but the Kunene is
wilder: watch out for crocs. Exceptionally
keen kayakers have linked them in a single
trip by paddling the entire 1,000-mile
Atlantic coast. umkuluadventures.com
Stargazing on a sleepout in
the NamibRand
Can there ever be too many stars in the sky?
In the NamibRand Nature Reserve — Africa’s
first and only certified International Dark
Sky Reserve — the heavens seem so full
that it can be difficult, at first, to tell one
constellation from the next, but savvy hiking
guides armed with laser pointers can help
decode the dazzle. Cosy camp beds, set out
on the sand, allow you to enjoy the skies
before you sleep. toktokkietrails.com
Running an ultramarathon
Namibia hosts several extreme
running events each year, including the
five-stage, 155-mile Desert Ultra across the
Namib desert from Spitzkoppe, northwest
of Windhoek. The course leads through
arid grasslands where massive granite
inselbergs shimmer in the heat-haze. Rugged
conditions and wildly varying temperatures
(as low as 5C at night and to up to 55C by
day) make this an unforgettable challenge.
beyondtheultimate.co.uk
NAMIBIA
Hot air ballooning over
Sossusvlei
As any drone pilot knows, there’s endless
fascination in a bird’s-eye view — and
when the landscape is as richly patterned
and hued as the southern Namib desert,
the views can be exceptional. Once your
balloon is aloft, you’ll float over dawn-tinged
dunes and enigmatic fairy circles (rings of
grass, thought to be caused by competition
between termites and desert vegetation),
perhaps spotting oryx or springboks far
below. It’s utterly serene. balloon-safaris.com
Sandboarding in
Swakopmund
Founded as a German enclave in the 1890s,
Swakopmund has since been taken over
by outdoor adventure enthusiasts. For
sandboarding fans, the call of the dunes
on the outskirts of town is strong. While
Sossusvlei’s slopes may be three times as
high, Swakopmund’s are steep enough to
give you plenty of acceleration. It’s a long
climb to the top, but the buzz as you hurtle
down, either standing up or lying down, is
worth every step. alter-action.info
Sightseeing from a light
aircraft
At ground level, the Skeleton Coast can
sometimes seem a desolate, windswept
place. But when viewed from the air on a
flight out of Swakopmund, its subtle beauties
emerge. Drifts of seals clump together on
the shore, Atlantic surf crashes against the
dunes and, with luck, you may see desert
elephants wandering the dry riverbeds.
Heading south across the Namib-Naukluft
National Park is thrilling, too: the desert
unfurls beneath you like an abstract
tapestry stitched in ochre, russet and gold.
eagleeyeaviation.com.na EG
March 2021 63
NAMIBIA

HOW TO PL AN

A SELF-DRIVE
TOUR
Flying in and out of lodges
and camps on small planes is
a fun and fast way to travel,
but to really see the country
and its landscape, allocate
some extra time and plan a
road trip. It’s adventurous
and cheap — even more so
if you go for a vehicle with
a roof tent. You’ll likely
drive for hours without
seeing another vehicle or
person, so make sure you’re
well prepared

CARRY SIX GALLONS OF WATER

1 PER PERSON
Don’t underestimate how much
water you’ll get through when
driving, and always factor in
unexpected stops. All locals will
tell you this is rule number one.

PLAN YOUR ROUTE

2 (AND YOUR PETROL)
Forget Google Maps — you won’t
find much reception on the road,
so refer to a physical map and
make sure you know when and
where you can stop for petrol.
Always fill up, even if you don’t
need to.

CARRY SUPPLIES AND CASH

3 The likelihood is you’ll go for
hours without seeing a single shop,
so travel with plenty of food (and
cash for if you do get to stop).

LEARN HOW TO CHANGE

4 A TYRE
You may get a flat on your trip. You
may get four. Watch a few YouTube
tutorials before you head off.

RENT FROM A REPUTABLE

5 COMPANY
A four-wheel-drive is a must, as
are off-road tyres. You’ll be driving
on a lot of gravel, so road tyres
won’t cut it. Deflate your tyres a
little on non-tarmac surfaces. HS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Road

stretching towards Sossusvlei, in the
Namib desert; a bathroom at Zannier
Hotels Sonop; a sign marks the Tropic
of Capricorn in the Namib desert

64 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

GHOST
TOWNS
TSAU KHAEB
NATIONAL
PARK
For much of the 20th century,
the mineral-rich landscapes
of southwest Namibia’s
Sperrgebiet diamond mining
area — now Tsau Khaeb
National Park — were out of
bounds to everyone except
miners. Left largely untouched
for so long, this remote region
is a biodiversity hotspot where
rare succulents thrive. The
miners have mostly departed,
but access remains limited.
Among the few spots that
are open to the public are the
once-prosperous settlements
of Kolmanskop and Pomona,
near Lüderitz, whose scattered
Edwardian villas have been
claimed by the sand, making
them bizarrely photogenic. EG
IMAGES: JAN MILLIGAN; ©ZANNIER HOTELS; AWL IMAGES
WHERE TO STAY
ROOMS IN THE WILDS
Recent years have seen Namibia’s accommodation scene blossom,
with boutique camps and lodges drawing travellers to spectacular
and remote corners of the country. Here are four new properties
offering a luxurious taste of Namibia’s scenery
AndBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge
BEST FOR LUXURY
Set on a 31,000-acre private reserve deep
in the Namib is the newly refurbished
AndBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge. Ten
huge stone-and-glass suites, each with an
equally large private pool, gaze out at a vast
expanse of rust-coloured sand and rock,
which your guide will help you explore by
four-wheel-drive, e-bike and quad bike. It’s
tempting to spend the day lazing in your
suite, with its generous bar stocked with
full-size bottles, and the evening stargazing
through the retractable roof, but do venture
out to the main lodge for your candlelit meals,
including venison served on hot desert stones.
From £937, full board. andbeyond.com
Zannier Hotels Sonop
BEST FOR DESIGN
Ten luxury tents — all linked by a series of
decks, wooden stilts and steps, and tucked
into a heap of granite boulders — make this
new camp one of the most architecturally
impressive in the country. Climbing the stairs
is somewhat of a workout, but the rewards are
plentiful, from the heated infinity pool and
outdoor cinema to the mud-walled spa. The
canvas rooms are 1920s-style sanctuaries,
with four-poster beds and rolltop baths, but
the real star is the cocktail lounge, which is
kitted out with antiques, a vintage pool table
and a stargazing deck — perfect for relaxing
after a day on horseback or e-bike. From £666,
full board. zannierhotels.com
NAMIBIA
Anderssons at Ongava
BEST FOR FAMILIES
This new family-friendly camp on the
private Ongava Game Reserve, bordering
Etosha National Park, has a relaxed vibe,
whether you’re spotting eland gathering at
the waterhole as you tuck into breakfast,
lounging by the pool or chatting around
the firepit. Light-flooded rooms are simply
yet stylishly decorated with plenty of pale
wood, muted linens and natural rugs.
Morning and afternoon drives will have
you regularly spotting lions and rhino, and
the Ongava Research Centre walks you
through the work being done to protect
the nation’s wildlife. From £780, B&B.
ongava.com
Kwessi Dunes
BEST FOR ADVENTURE
Conservation is at the core of Natural
Selection camps and lodges, and its new
outpost — Kwessi Dunes, located in the
NamibRand Nature Reserve, one of the
largest private reserves in Southern Africa
— is no different, with 1.5% of room rates
going straight back into protecting the
area. Each of the 12 solar-powered chalets
features a four-poster bed and an additional
star-bed for the best galaxy-gazing in this
International Dark Sky Park. Spot gemsbok
and bat-eared foxes during nature drives and
horse rides, or attempt to climb the nearby
Big Daddy dune at dawn. From £675, full
board. naturalselection.travel HS
March 2021 65
NAMIBIA
ALL IN A NIGHT’S WORK
Responding to travellers’ desire to engage with frontline conservation, the Naankuse Foundation,
based east of Windhoek, has opened its ranger training programmes to anyone willing to muck in
on patrols and intrepid, under-the-stars night shifts in the bush. Words: Hannah Summers
Forget tents, forget torches. This is camping
with a difference. Around me, my boma
— a metre-high ring of thorny bushes —
provides shelter from any predators. Above
me, a sky flooded with stars threatens to
distract me from the job at hand. You may
think that here, buried in 22,000 acres of
Namibian bushland, I’d be on the lookout
for megafauna: the leopards that roam
the reserve, or the elephants that could
mercilessly trample my makeshift camp. But
I’m here with a different role, taking on a
nighttime stint as a ‘Rhino Ranger’ with one
task: to protect the world’s rapidly depleting
rhino population from poachers.
While ranger training academies exist
across the world for those seeking a career
in conservation, this is the first time such
a programme has been offered to everyday
travellers, who can join for one-week to
one-month stints to take on a vital wildlife
protection role and work alongside some of
the most inspirational people on the planet.
Their office? The Zannier Reserve, a
huge expanse of land run by the Naankuse
Foundation, which rescues and rehabilitates
animals in danger. A pair of elephants rescued
from being sold to a circus and hundreds of
baboons are just some of the lucky guests.
The other residents are a small crash of
rhinos — a fraction of the 27,000 left in the
wild — who are at risk from poachers. In 2019,
41 desert-adapted black rhinos were killed in
Namibia alone. The poacher’s target is rhino
horn, which is regarded as a wonder-cure by
66 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
thousands of consumers in China. A horn
can weigh up to 8kg, with each kilo valued at
a figure between £20,000 to £75,000. Simple
sums show why the animals are in demand.
While donations to anti-poaching units
are important, there’s another key to success.
“Boots on the ground,” says Ivan, the reserve
manager. “More eyes, more ears. Greater
deterrents.” And that’s where visitors can help.
For the next few days, I’ll be supporting my
teammates H and J, patrolling the bushland
and looking for signs of poachers. “A ranger’s
role is not to confront poachers, but to report
on them,” says Ivan. “We’re conservationists
— the aim is to drive them into an ambush
and catch them, not to kill anyone.”
Rhino poachers aren’t opportunists. In fact,
they run a highly skilled, planned operation
that’s likened to human and drug trafficking.
Due to this, H and J live highly secretive lives,
with only close family knowing their real jobs.
If their identities are revealed, they become an
immediate target: poachers have blackmailed
rangers and kidnapped their families for
intelligence on rhino locations.
Nevertheless, our days feel strangely
relaxing. This is a controlled and considered
undertaking. Kitted out in our uniforms, we
spend the mornings patrolling in single file. H
and J are armed with rifles, taking up the front
and rear, while I scour the land for any signs of
unusual human activity: a lone cigarette butt,
a footprint or even a cache of weapons.
After each patrol, we scoff our rations
(biscuits, noodles and tinned meat) and call
in our sightings on a walkie talkie, reporting
any suspicious sightings and the locations of
animals. The experience is in one part ranger
patrol and another part thrilling walking
safari. Every day — indeed, every hour
— we encounter memorable wildlife tableaus:
a leopard snoozing in the sunshine; a giraffe
towering over flowering bushes; a cobra
occupying a patch of bush worryingly close
to our camp.
And, of course, the rhino. Our first sighting
is a mother and daughter barely 60ft away.
“Respect the animals and they’ll respect you,”
H tells me in a whisper. “Don’t show fear — it
will make them fearful too.” They gaze at us
inquisitively before sauntering past, unfazed.
The next day we see them again, this time
with a handful of others. They stroll into a
sun-soaked stretch of grass and graze for
hours, finally wandering off as the sun sets.
That night, back in the boma, I think
about the rhino I’ve had the privilege to help
protect, and my new ranger friends working
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; DANA ALLEN/ONGAVA
the frontline of this operation. Their jobs
offer no glory; I can’t even share their real
names or their faces. I think back to H smiling
as he watched the rhino happily grazing at
the waterhole earlier that day. “This job is
dangerous,” he’d told me in a whisper. “But
I must help save these amazing animals.”
I’m glad to have played a small part, too.
HOW TO DO IT: The Naankuse Foundation’s
Rhino Rangers programme starts at £91 per
person per night. naankusefoundation.com
 NAMIBIA

An endangered black rhino in the

Ongava Private Game Reserve
ABOVE: Sunrise near the
Naankuse Foundation,
based east of Windhoek

March 2021 67
NAMIBIA
The Wonders and Infinite Expanses
will Lead You

In A
360°
Loop of
Adventure

info@gondwana-collection.com
www.gondwana-collection.com

SAFARI CHECKLIST FIVE INCREDIBLE DESERT-ADAPTED SPECIES
Namibia’s arid deserts are teeming with creatures great and small that have evolved to cope with its climatic extremes
ELEPHANT
An encounter with the
elephants of Kunene
and Erongo regions is
even more humbling
than an audience with
their savannah-dwelling
cousins. Desert elephants
dig wells in dry riverbeds
using their feet, trunks
and acute sense of smell.
In tough times, they eat
the greenest vegetation
available; this allows them
to survive without water
for up to four days.
Elephants parade
past a safari vehicle
in Damaraland
IMAGE: ROGER BORGELID
ORYX
With a face like a painted
mask and long, elegant
horns, this striking desert
antelope features on
Namibia’s coat of arms.
Although not strictly
nocturnal, oryx (also
known as gemsbok) limit
their movements during
the day to beat the heat.
Widespread in the Kalahari
and Namib deserts, they
occasionally venture into
towns, too; in Oranjemund,
they’re a common sight.
AARDVARK
Top of the animal
alphabet, and high on
many wildlife-watchers’
wish lists, the aardvark
is a unique-looking
insectivore with rabbit-
like ears and a long snout.
They sleep in burrows
by day and emerge after
dark to feast on termites,
polishing off up to 50,000
each night. They’re
widespread in central
Namibia, but sightings are
a rare treat.
BARKING GECKO
After sundown in the
Namib desert, barking
geckos strike up a chorus
that’s as distinctive as
the chirping of cicadas
in the Mediterranean.
It’s the males that make
all the racket, staking
out their territories from
the mouths of their sandy
burrows with a sound
like pebbles chinking
together. With patience,
you can spot them with
the careful use of a torch.
NAMIBIA
FOG-BASKING BEETLE
Found on the Skeleton
Coast, this particular
species of toktokkies
imbibes fog to survive.
In the cool of the morning,
they perform handstands
on the dunes, allowing
condensation to trickle
down their backs to their
mouthparts. Although
they’re only coin-sized,
sharp-eyed nature guides
can find them on the
sands, practising their
yoga-like poses. EG
March 2021 69
NAMIBIA

Burchell’s zebra drinking from a

water hole in Etosha National Park
BELOW: A Ju/’hoansi (San Bushman)
cultural guides demonstrates the
traditional way to make fire, Nyae
Nyae Conservancy, near Tsumkwe

W I L D S PAC E S
For eco-tourists,
Namibia is a treasure
trove. The country
has been a leader
in community-
based conservation
since the 1990s, and
its environmental
protection policies
continue to evolve,
preserving unique
habitats including the
wildlife-rich Zambezi
Region and the ochre-
dunes of the coastal
Namib desert. Despite
international pressure
to ban trophy hunting,
licences are still issued,
but with the proviso
that businesses allocate
at least half their
income to community
development
projects. EG

70 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

BUSH LORE IN THE
BORDERLANDS
Travellers who venture to the country ’s northeast can engage with
the history and lore of indigenous Ju/’hoansi people in the Nyae Nyae
Conservancy, learning about natural medicines and wayf inding on a
bush walk. Words: Emma Greg g
How do you keep lions at bay when you’re
sleeping in the Kalahari without a tent? With
lion repellent, of course. The trick is to keep
your fires burning and spike them with roots
that produce the type of pungent smoke that
big cats can’t abide.
The roots of the nondescript-looking shrub
I’m peering at are ideal, apparently. “Put those
on the flames, and the lions will run away in
disgust”, says Tsamkgao !I/ae, my Ju/’hoan
interpreter. This is exactly the kind of wisdom
I’ve travelled more than 450 miles northeast
from Windhoek to Otjozondjupa to hear.
My tutor on this sun-bleached, dust-frosted
morning is /Kaece, a Ju/’hoansi elder. We
met beside a semi-circle of grass huts on
the outskirts of Tsumkwe an hour or so ago.
Summoning my best click-consonants, I
attempted a greeting (‡Xáí, /Kaece!), and he
replied, generously, with a grin.
Overland travellers rarely spend more than
a night in Tsumkwe. Close to the border with
Botswana, it’s seven hours’ drive from the
city of Maun. The wildlife hotspots of Etosha,
Khaudum and the Okavango Delta are all,
in long-distance safari terms, tantalisingly
close. But for me, this unprepossessing town
isn’t just a stopover: I’m here to learn about an
ancient way of life that’s all but disappeared.
/Kaece, his wife //‡Oro and their extended
family are cultural guides who invite tourists
to walk with them in the wilds of Nyae Nyae
Conservancy. They dress in hand-cured skins
and beads and carry traditional weapons and
tools since, in many ways, what they offer
is a historical re-enactment. It’s been half a
century since hunting and gathering defined
the Ju/’hoansi, a sub-group of southern
Africa’s San Bushmen; these days, they live
settled or semi-settled lives, wearing western
clothing, tending livestock in the arid, tree-
IMAGES: GETTY; EMMA GREGG
dotted grasslands and doing odd jobs.
This transition was forced upon the
Ju/’hoansi by the pre-independence
apartheid government, which pushed them
out of their wildlife-rich hunting grounds
and confined them to Bushmanland, an
unwanted block of semi-desert in present-day
Otjozondjupa. Marginalised and sometimes
NAMIBIA
exploited, either overtly or covertly, many
Ju/’hoansi struggle to stay afloat. Nyae
Nyae, Namibia’s first community-based
conservancy, was established during the
nation’s first decade of independence, the
1990s, and remains the only place where it’s
legal for Ju/’hoansi to benefit from traditional
practices such as hunting antelopes and birds
with arrows, spears and traps and gathering
plants and honey, alongside farming,
commercial hunting and ecotourism.
Land rights aside, the Ju/’hoansi’s most
valuable assets are their ancestral knowledge
and bushskills. To my inexperienced gaze,
Nyae Nyae appears more or less trackless,
and now the sun is high overhead, I wonder
how on earth the locals navigate. It turns out
it’s all down to observation, memory and,
occasionally, natural stimulants.
“If we lose our way, we find some Kalahari
currant leaves and chew on them”, says/Kaece.
“That helps us focus.”
“We call it the San GPS”, adds Tsamkgao.
As our bushwalk unfolds, /Kaece and his
family coax me into viewing the Kalahari
through their eyes. Where I see swathes
of near-identical grasses and shrubs, the
Ju/’hoansi see medicines, poisons, tools,
nutritious seeds, fruit-bearing bushes and
hidden sources of water. Their lore identifies
more than 400 botanical species with
practical uses, from leaves that will soothe
inflammations to moisture-stuffed tubers.
Some have commercial value as natural
remedies: devil’s claw roots, for example,
are snapped up by international buyers and
turned into joint pain tablets that are sold in
health food shops, worldwide.
Towards the end of our walk, I ask /Kaece
whether he’s nostalgic for the old ways. “Some
of the changes are for the better,” he says.
“But we’ll always honour our traditions. They
remind us who we are.”
HOW TO DO IT: Audley Travel can arrange
a bespoke safari in Namibia including a
stay at Tucsin Tsumkwe Lodge, a good
base for bushwalks with Ju/’hoansi guides.
audleytravel.com tsumkwe-lodge.com
March 2021 71
DISCOVER
NAMIBIA’S MOST
MYSTERIOUS TOWN
IN THE WORLD’S OLDEST DESERT
A town closed to outsiders for 85 years. Where oryx roam
free, but visitors required a permit. Its secrets abound: an
18-hole golf course at the mouth of the Orange River,
spectacular sunsets on the towering dunes, a 500-year-old
shipwreck, the allure of diamonds, the stories of a community
in a world of its own. Oranjemund is the gateway to the
Sperrgebiet, the forbidden land, and it is now open to
explorers. Discover it.

www.omdis.co
Proud sponsors of Diamonds in the Sand, the
television series on explorer Kate Leeming's
pioneering cycle down Namibia's entire
coastline.
http://www.kateleeming.com

Q&A
VISITING NAMIBIA’S
LIVING MUSEUMS
We speak to Kathrin Dürrschmidt, project coordinator of the Living
Culture Foundation, and Rimunikavi Tjipurua, known as John, who
manages the Ovahimba Living Museum, where travellers can learn
about Himba culture through workshops and re-enactments
Does Namibia deserve more
recognition as a sustainable cultural
tourism destination?
KATHRIN: Yes, definitely. It has a diverse
population with strong cultural roots.
Namibia’s peoples differ substantially in
their traditions and languages, making each
Living Museum unique.
Beyond income, what other benefits
do the Living Museums bring?
JOHN: They help us keep our traditions alive
and enable us to send our children to school.
We want to encourage our children to be
flexible, so they can live alongside other
societies, balancing traditional and modern
ways of life.
KATHRIN: Earning a living through their work
improves the performers’ self-esteem. For
me, this is very rewarding to see.
What can visitors expect to learn?
JOHN: At our museum, we show visitors
IMAGES: JAN MILLIGAN
how to make things like ochre body paint
and spears, how we use natural perfume to
keep us smelling fresh, what we sleep on
and how we survive in such a hot, dry area.
Traditional Himba lifestyles are nothing like
modern, urban life.
Some cultural experiences over-
simplify traditions and can even
feel voyeuristic. How do the Living
Museums avoid these pitfalls?
KATHRIN: The museums can only offer
limited cultural insights, but what makes
them special is the authenticity and
enthusiasm of the actors, and the fact that
guests are encouraged to take part. We’re
also planning to assemble a cultural travel
guide with more in-depth information, for
the museums to sell.
What advice would you give for visiting
a traditional community respectfully?
JOHN: We’re very friendly, but we don’t want
our traditions to be exploited. Always ask
before taking pictures or videos — and don’t
come too close or stare at people who are
unclothed. If there’s agreement between both
parties, everybody’s happy. Tourists should
also try to be open-minded. Ask questions,
but be careful not to make people feel their
culture is somehow inferior.
MORE INFO: As well as Himba, there are so
far Damara, Ju/’Hoansi, Mafwe and Kavango
Living Museums across the country’s north.
lcfn.info EG
NAMIBIA
WINDHOEK’S
BIGGEST
FESTIVAL
The Namibian capital is home
to one of southern Africa’s
favourite brews, Windhoek
lager, and an enthusiastic
community of beer aficionados.
At Oktoberfest, in late October,
Windhoek’s German-speaking
community will get together
— pandemic permitting — with
brass bands, folk dancers and
steins of Festbier, specially
brewed for the occasion.
A similar knees-up also
takes place in Swakopmund.
oktoberfestnamibia.com EG
ABOVE FROM LEFT: A Himba woman creates
otjize, a butter-and-ochre sun cream; a
traditional Himba perfume ritual
March 2021 73
NAMIBIA
14 HOURS IN
SWAKOPMUND
It ’s not all adrenalin-charged action in Namibia’s adventure capital:
this coastal city is fun to explore on foot, admiring German-style
architecture and strolling the seaside promenade, all while squeezing in
some fun activities and great food
8AM KAYAK WITH THE SEALS
It’s an early start as you head 25 miles up the
coast, driving past some of the world’s largest
salt pans, to sea kayak to Pelican Point. Your
companions are the Cape fur seal colony;
hundreds of the playful creatures will splash
around by your paddles as you do your best to
take pictures. ecomarinekayak.com
1PM FACHWERK BIERGARTEN
Grab a lunch-time beer with a side of pork
knuckle, potato salad and sauerkraut at
this Bavarian-style beerhouse, located in
a building that dates back to 1889. It’s cosy
inside but on a sunny day the small beer
garden or front terrace is just the spot.
fachwerk-gastronomy.com
2PM SWAKOPMUND MUSEUM
Located at the base of the lighthouse, this
small museum on Strand Street takes you
on a tour of Swakopmund’s intriguing
history, from its period as a German colony
to a run-through of its flora and fauna, via a
reconstructed colonial home interior.
74 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
The lighthouse in Swakopmund
LEFT: The colourful Hohenzollern
Building, Swakopmund
P L A N YO U R T R I P
GETTING THERE
There are no direct flights
from London to Namibia.
Options include British
Airways and Airlink via Cape
Town (16hr 10min), or
Lufthansa via Frankfurt (20hr
30min). ba.com flyairlink.com
lufthansa.com
3PM HIT THE BEACH
GETTING AROUND
On a sunny day, locals and tourists gather on
Namibia’s well-maintained
the golden sands of the city beach, paddling
network of tarmac and
and people watching. Stick around for sunset gravel roads makes self-drive
or take a stroll along the jetty. a popular option. Many
standard itineraries don’t
7PM DINNER AT BREWER & BUTCHER require four-wheel-drive
Grab a spot on the outside terrace of this vehicles, just one that’s
relaxed restaurant and sports bar, which robust. Organised group
doubles as a brewery. The oysters are safaris and private driver/
guides are also available.
plucked from nearby Walvis Bay, and the
Maggie burger is one of the best for miles.
WHEN TO GO
To drink? A flight of craft beers brewed July to October, when
on-site by Swakopmund Brewing Company. daytime temperatures dip
strandhotelswakopmund.com to a manageable 20C, is
best. Between April and
10PM SLEEP AT THE SLITZ June, temperatures can
exceed 40C. Rainfall is rare,
IMAGES: GETTY; AWL IMAGES
This quirky guesthouse is made up of
eight spacious and colourful thatch-roof even in the green season
(January to March).
bungalows, which sit on stilts with views over
the Atlantic Ocean. Wake up in the morning
MORE INFO
to the surreal sight of camels grazing below The Rough Guide to
you (there’s a camel farm nearby). While the Namibia. RRP: £16.99.
views are wild and unspoilt, it’s still only a Namibia Tourism.
short walk from town. thestiltz.com HS travelnamibia.co.uk
 Warrior queens, loch monsters, fairies and
feuding clans — legends abound on the
Hebridean island of Skye. For centuries, colourful
tales have shaped the lives of those who call
Scotland’s ‘Misty Isle’ home, and are still deeply
intertwined with its soul-stirring landscapes

OF MIST

76 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
& MYTH
WORDS CONNOR MCGOVERN
PHOTOGRAPHS DANIEL ALFORD

March 2021 77
SCOTLAND
I ’m s tanding at the drawbridge to the
‘ For tress of Shadows ’. The forbidding ,
12 th - centur y cas tle cling s to the hillside
for dear life, it s crumbling walls tracing a
broken line agains t the sk y.
Across Loch Eishort, the dark peaks of the
Cuillin mountains run across the horizon
like a row of crumpled witches’ hats,
snagging clouds as they pass. There’s barely
another soul in sight, the land haunted by
little more than the wind ruffling the long,
golden grass.
Tucked away from the world, it’s clear to
me why Scáthach chose this spot to found
her impenetrable college of martial combat.
Promising warriors would come from far and
wide to train in warfare and sorcery here, I’m
told, and to learn in secret from perhaps the
greatest warrior the Celtic realms have ever
known. At least, that’s how her legend goes.
“It’s difficult to separate mythology
and history on Skye,” says guide Ciaran
Stormonth, as we squelch our way back
inland across the boggy ground. “I’m sure
there probably was a woman called Scáthach,
but how much is true? We just don’t know.”
Ciaran, from tour operator McKinlay Kidd,
tells me about Cú Chulainn, another hero
of local lore, who travelled across the water
from Ireland to Skye to learn from Scáthach.
Historical accounts are scarce; it’s only
through centuries of spoken stories that
we can muse on what might have happened
behind the ramparts.
What is certain, however, is that Dunscaith
Castle — to give it its official name — had
a chequered past, passing between Clans
Macdonald and Macleod before finally being
abandoned sometime in the 1600s. But what
ultimately happened to the powerful warrior
queen Scáthach remains a mystery; the lack
of any known tomb only adds to her mystique.
Legend has it that she’ll return when the
world needs her most. I can’t help but think,
as I rub a blob of hand gel between my palms,
that a homecoming is somewhat overdue.
Shaped like a raven’s wing spreading into
the Sea of the Hebrides, Skye is a theatre of
78 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
natural drama, where legends like Scáthach’s
have played out for centuries. It’s a suitable
setting for tales of warriors and witches,
given the brooding mountains, moorland,
tumbling waterfalls and loch-frayed coasts
that hint at a violent, elemental past.
Indeed, the weather on Scotland’s second-
largest island is equally as dramatic as its
landscapes, changing at a moment’s notice
like the whims of a god. After all, it didn’t
earn the nickname ‘Misty Isle’ for nothing.
But for now, at least, the gods are on
our side. Beneath an unseasonably blue
September sky, we follow a narrow road on
the southerly Sleat peninsula, past pebbly
streams and mossy thickets of oak, as
vacuous sheep chew grass at the roadside.
“Celtic nations have a rich heritage of
storytelling,” says Ciaran, his T-shirt an
ethereal white flash against the earthy
landscape. “Take fairies — they’ve been used
for centuries as a way of explaining strange
things that people didn’t understand, such as
illnesses. True or not, it was a way of hiding
the dangers of the world.”
We stop beside a small, silent loch. Rather
than having a connection with fairies
(or the more archaic ‘faeries’, as they’re
often spelt here), this is one of countless
Highland waters associated with kelpies, the
shape-shifting demon horses said to claim
children’s souls by dragging them down into
the depths. “Whenever I’d see a lone horse as
a child, it’d always give me the chills,” says
Ciaran, smirking. “The moral of the story is
to stay away from other folks’ livestock.”
Further along, in the small coastal
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Sheep
township of Tarskavaig, we cross a bull’s
along a roadside; ruins of Armadale
paddock — careful not to get too close, of
Castle, the former seat of Clan
course — and admire the shoreline from Macdonald; hiking in the Cuillin
above. The village grew with the rise of kelp Hills; the crumbling drawbridge
farming, which reached its peak here in the of Dunscaith Castle
late 18th century. But as demand dwindled, PREVIOUS PAGES: Old Man of Storr
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land-owning clan chiefs sought to bring in
A selection of more profitable business, such as crofting.
their wares is laid To make room, people were evicted and their
houses burnt down, with many ultimately
out like a mystical migrating in what came to be known as the
treasure trove: Highland Clearances.
People still live in Tarskavaig today, but
suits of armour, across Loch Eishort, the ruined cottages of the
elaborate staffs, abandoned village of Suisnish stand forlornly
against the hills. They’re a bleak reminder of
rings set with this tragic chapter in Scottish history, and of a
jewels and marble, fate that befell hundreds of villages across the
Highlands. “There’s so little documentation
and knives, too, about a lot of the Clearances that sometimes
with handles myths seem to have more weight than history
here,” says Ciaran.
carved from The tale of this land, and our afternoon’s
5,000-year-old ramble, reaches a poignant conclusion at
the now-ruined Armadale Castle, once the
bog oak seat of the Clan Macdonald chief. These
days, however, the estate belongs to the Clan
Donald Lands Trust, set up by members of
the Macdonald family across the world to
safeguard their ancestral land. Remarkably,
history has come full circle for those
among them who can trace their line back
to those same cleared villages of Sleat. On
Skye, it seems, legends and facts can be as
fantastical as each other.
Blood & water  With binoculars in hand, flame-haired
With a sigh, Garth Duncan shakes his head.
“Nobody really knows what these symbols
mean. One theory is that they’re maps, but
really, we can’t be sure.”
At Duncan House, tucked away off the
road to the village of Elgol, the craftsman
is showing me his ornate Celtic jewellery:
brooches, crests and rings adorned with
intricate, twisting patterns. Though originally
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The small
coastal township of Tarskavaig, with the
from the US, where he was first inspired
Cuillin Hills in the distance; Garth and to take up silverwork, Garth permanently
Gareth Duncan; rings set with precious relocated to Skye two decades ago — a move
stones at Duncan House driven by old family ties. “I’ve Scottish
SCOTLAND
heritage on my father’s side,” he explains,
“although I never used to be interested by
it. But then I looked into it and realised I
wanted to keep these ancient traditions alive.
Suddenly, I started creating these artifacts
and had to keep outdoing myself.”
Along with his son Gareth, he works on
commissions from all over the world. A
selection of their wares is laid out like a
mystical treasure trove: suits of armour,
elaborate staffs, rings set with jewels and
Skye marble, and knives with handles carved
from 5,000-year-old bog oak. History and
landscape fused masterfully into one.
“I can’t imagine being anywhere else now,”
says Garth wistfully. “And I like being up
here, out of the way — I hear all the gossip
from Elgol without having to be there.”
I head to the tiny harbour of Elgol, where
lobster pots are lined expectantly along the
quay, to meet another father-son duo. I’ve
not joined Sandy and Seumas Mackinnon
for gossip, but to accompany the pair on one
of the family-run Misty Isle Boat Trips to
secluded Loch Coruisk. Hidden away across
the water, the loch is most quickly reached
by boat and — given that the alternative is
a 10-mile hike from Elgol, involving a rocky
scramble known as the ‘Bad Step’ — it’s
arguably the easiest route, too.
Seumas points out seals and gannets en
route. “Look, there, quickly!” he cries,
nodding to a pair of minke whales, whose
fleeting appearance draws gasps from the
boat. Sightings of the cetaceans are never
guaranteed, he says, although the same
could be said for some of the waters’ more
fantastical residents. “They say there’s an
ùruisg at Loch Coruisk,” says Sandy as we
moor up near the loch. “A half-man, half-goat
that brings bad luck. If he finds you, don’t
lead him back here — I don’t want anything
to do with him.”
March 2021 81
SCOTLAND
If it’s my attention the ùruisg wants, then
he has Loch Coruisk to compete with. The
lake is captivating: at once dramatic and
serene — a silent, dark mirror into which the
rough, bare peaks of the Cuillin are reflected
with almost digital clarity. Boulders sit alone
in the landscape like paperweights, and the
faint cries of sea eagles echo around the
hills. It’s so wildly atmospheric that Scottish
writer Sir Walter Scott felt compelled to
commit it to paper in his 1814 poem The Lord
of the Isles, writing ‘Rarely human eye has
known a scene so stern as that dread lake.’
Poet Alfred, Lord Tennyson, however, was
less lucky, having failed to glimpse much but
a ‘thick wool-white fog’ when he visited some
30 years later.
Sandy’s father, Seumas, began running
trips to Loch Coruisk in 1967, and no family
knows the area better. It comes from a deep
connection to this corner of Skye, one that
goes back generations; the Mackinnons
can even trace their roots back to John
Mackinnon, who helped hide a fugitive
Bonnie Prince Charlie here in 1746. “I lived in
Devon for a time but I eventually came back,”
says Sandy. “I just love being here; there’s a
real pull to Skye.”
He isn’t the only one to have answered its
siren song. I also have Mackinnon blood on
my mother’s side, and have long felt drawn
to the place my forebears once roamed. But
whether or not they helped the runaway
royal is another question. “Because of the
clan system that used to exist,” says Sandy,
“I think there’s definitely still a sense of
belonging, here, with your people.”
On the road back to Broadford, I stop at
the ruined Cill Chriosd. The roof of the 16th-
century church has fallen away and moss
and grass choke its remaining four walls.
But one gravestone catches my attention: an
unmistakable Celtic cross with its distinctive
knotwork, standing tall against the darkening
82 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
sky. There are Mackinnons buried here, too,
their pious epitaphs faded with age. I think of
The lake is at once
Sandy and his clan — and my ancestors, too dramatic and
— and admire it all with newfound curiosity. serene — a silent,
Language of the land  dark mirror into
In her wood-panelled office on the Eilean
Iarmain estate, Lady Lucilla Noble pours
which the rough,
drams of the estate’s Poit Dhubh whisky. bare peaks of the
She’s immaculate in sage-green tweed,
sharing stories of the estate’s heritage as a
Cuillin are
fire crackles behind her. “This spot used to reflected with
be a hive of activity in the 19th century,” she
says. “News arriving from the mainland,
almost digital
hellos, farewells — a lot of human emotion.” clarity, and where
As we look out of the window to the
estate’s quiet harbour, it’s hard to imagine
the faint cries of
its days as a bustling port. The construction sea eagles echo
of the Skye Bridge in 1995 meant access to
the mainland no longer relied solely on ferry
around the hills
crossings, though many visitors still opt
to sail ‘over the sea’ to Skye from Mallaig.
After coming so far north on the Caledonian
Sleeper — the famed, winding Highland
train journey, which begins in London — a
voyage across the water only bolsters my
impression of the island’s solitude.
This evening, though, the Eilean Iarmain
estate is peaceful: warm light glows from the
windows of white cottages, and fishing boats
bob quietly in the water. It’s put Lucilla in the
mood for reminiscing.
“My husband was a strange man, I
suppose,” she explains with a grin, topping
up the whiskies. “A winning combination of
whacky humour and a kind heart.”
Among his many entrepreneurial ventures,
one of the late Sir Iain Noble’s longstanding CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:
Mist descends over Loch Coruisk;
passions was Scottish Gaelic culture. To help
grandfather and grandson Seumas
preserve and promote it, he founded a Gaelic-
and Seumas Mackinnon, whose family
speaking college here on Skye, Sabhal Mòr runs Misty Isle Boat Trips; grey seals
Ostaig, and opened Hotel Eilean Iarmain resting on the rocks near Loch Coruisk;
here on the estate, where the emphasis is mooring up after a Misty Isle Boat
firmly on Scotland’s Celtic tongue. Trips excursion
SCOTLAND

March 2021 83
SCOTLAND

84 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SCOTLAND

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The dramatic

landscape of the Quiraing; a red
stag roams the Eilean Iarmain estate;
gamekeeper Scott Mackenzie

ESSENTIALS
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Getting there & around

“He used to have a swear box,” Lucilla
laughs, “so that every time somebody spoke
English they’d have to put in a pound.”
Skye is one of the last remaining bastions
of Gaelic in Scotland, which counts 60,000
native speakers today, and while its fate
is uncertain — the number of speakers
dwindled by 30% between 1981 and 2001
— the language is nevertheless deeply etched
into island life.
“You see Gaelic everywhere on Skye,”
says Lucilla. “Not just the road signs, but in
the names of mountains, islands and burns,
too. People have a reaction to landscapes,
and so place names are a way of introducing
them to Gaelic.”
One person who is well-versed in Skye’s
The hand of time is evident on my final
walk, on Trotternish, Skye’s northernmost
peninsula. Cutting across the land like a
fracture along a bone is the Quiraing: the
rocky remains of massive, ancient landslides.
Still today, it’s one of the most geologically
active parts of the UK, slowly collapsing
beneath layers of volcanic basalt — the roads
around it even need annual repairs due to
the area’s gradual subsidence. But there are
traces of a primitive past all over Trotternish:
at nearby Staffin, I amble along the beach at
low tide, on the lookout for 165-million-year-
old dinosaur footprints, while Mealt Falls
gushes over a sheer cliff and into the sea with
end-of-the-earth drama.
But most intriguing of all is the Old
The Caledonian Sleeper train departs
London Euston six evenings a week and
arrives in either Fort William or Inverness
the next morning. From there, it’s a
two-and-a-half- to three-hour drive via
the A87. Classic rooms start at £170,
based on two sharing. sleeper.scot
A number of UK airlines fly direct to
Inverness, the nearest airport.
A car is essential, with rental
companies on the mainland.
When to go
Winters often hover around freezing,
with some roads closed in bad weather
and some tourist facilities limited. June
through to September sees balmy highs
of around 16C. Accommodation books
up well in advance for summer.

landscapes is Eilean Iarmain’s gamekeeper. Man of Storr, a striking rock formation

Clad in full Highland garb, deerstalker
and all, Scott Mackenzie has a varied
role, including conserving Sleat’s ancient
woodland and managing the local deer
population. And with rutting season edging
closer, our eyes — and ears — are open for
red stags. “The colder the weather, the better
the rut,” says Scott, as we tramp across the
heather. It’s cold, but not cold enough; the
hills and forests are quiet for now.
Having managed the 23,000-acre estate
for the best part of a decade, Scott has a
unique perspective on the island. “Tourism
has changed things here,” he says. “More
and more people are visiting Skye than ever
before, but many just come for a day or two.
We want them to stay longer, and to travel
more slowly; there’s enough here for a week if
you take your time.”
In a period when people are hankering after
a world beyond their living room, Scotland’s
wild islands have come to epitomise a sort
of socially distanced immersion in nature.
But, as Scott puts it, “Skye isn’t the barren
wilderness people think it is; it’s a vibrant
place that’s always evolving.”
said to be the remains of a perished giant.
After leaving Scott, I hike up its slopes,
over skull-white stumps of felled pine
trees, while the sea glimmers on the
horizon in the shifting light. It’s silent,
apart from a thin, cold wind that steals
the ragged breaths of fellow hikers
— not even the crows flitting about the
outcrops dare to make a noise.
Up ahead is Needle Rock: a lone finger
of crumbling basalt protruding from the
earth. Air rattles in my windpipe as I dirty
my hands scrambling up to its base, scree
scattering underfoot. Before long, the
wizened, rocky flanks of the Old Man loom
like the walls of a cathedral, cloaking the
scene in shadows. I have the urge to keep
climbing, but instead I sit for a while, taking
in this spectacular accident of nature. It’s
almost spiritual in its silence.
Skye seems like a memory up here, far
enough away to feel like a myth in itself.
Above, clouds pierced with sunbeams cruise
across the sky. Then, as quickly as I had
noticed them appear, they scud away on the
wind, like enemies fleeing a warrior queen.
Places mentioned
Armadale Castle. armadalecastle.co.uk
Duncan House. duncan-house.com
Misty Isle Boat Trips.
mistyisleboattrips.co.uk
Eilean Iarmain. eileaniarmain.co.uk
Scott Mackenzie. scottmackenzie-
skyegamekeeper.co.uk
More info
visitscotland.com
Where to stay
The Three Chimneys and The House
Over-by (for the north of the island).
threechimneys.co.uk
Eilean Iarmain Hotel (for the south of
the island). eileaniarmain.co.uk
How to do it
MCKINLAY KIDD offers the Luxury Skye
and Highlands by Sleeper tour from
£1,775 per person (based on two
sharing). It includes return club-class
sleeper travel and four nights’
accommodation in four- and five-star
hotels, rail and ferry travel, transfers,
and guided tours of Perthshire, Skye
and Inverness. mckinlaykidd.com

March 2021 85
RIDING
THE RAILS
IN THE
ROCKIES
A ll a b o ar d t h e R o c k y M o un t a in e e r, i t s d a p p e r
c ar r ia ge s c lim b in g l e i s ur e l y f r o m m ul t ic ul t ur a l
Va n c o u ve r to t h e p e a k- r in ge d r e s o r t o f B a n f f.
T h e t wo - d ay r o u te , f o ll ow in g h i s to r ic a n d
h ar d - wo n t r a in t r a c k s , r eve a l s s up e r s iz e d
s um m i t s , p io n e e r in g s e t t l e m e n t s a n d f o r e s t e d
va ll eys s t a lke d by g r iz z l y b e ar s
IMAGE: GETTY

WORDS BEN LERWILL

86 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
CANADA

IMAGE: GETTY

88 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

D oris might not be as young as
she was, but she really knows
how to wave at passing trains.
Feet apart, hands whirring above
her head, a few blown kisses for
good measure. She’s standing on her porch
in the tiny lakeside settlement of Canoe,
greeting the Rocky Mountaineer as it gleams
along the tracks. Doris’s enthusiasm, quite
honestly, is enough to shame a preschooler.
For years, this Canadian and her dog — a
loll-tongued Shar Pei named Cedar Bear
— have taken it upon themselves to step
outside their front door and greet the train
whenever it passes, earning minor celebrity
status in the process. On board, our attention
diverted from our eggs Benedict and coffee,
we lower our cutlery and wave back. It all
feels rather regal.
In fairness, the Rocky Mountaineer is
the kind of sight that warrants a salutation.
Known for its high-comfort jaunts through
the shapeliest parts of western Canada, the
train cuts a dapper blue-and-bronze figure
on remote rural lines more accustomed to
the clatter of freight cars. Three decades have
passed since the tourist service first rumbled
out of Vancouver and into the mountains,
during which time the brand has gained
serious cachet. Its reputation — thanks in
no small part to the sky-spearing spectacle
of the Canadian wilderness — is now that of
rail royalty.
But first things first. Like a cloned
action hero, there’s more than one
LEFT: Vancouver’s Rocky Mountaineer. Using a fleet of nine
downtown, framed by
locomotives and more than 50 liveried
snow-capped mountains
carriages, it operates four different routes
PREVIOUS PAGES: The
Rocky Mountaineer
around the Pacific Northwest, often
bisects the wildlife-rich, concurrently. Trains run from mid-April to
forested valleys of mid-October, trundling through epic, eagle-
British Columbia flown landscapes at a restrained average
CANADA
speed of 30mph. Sensible, really; they’re not
the sort of journeys you want to rush.
I’m making a trip along its flagship
route, billed as the ‘First Passage to the
West’, which takes two days to travel from
Vancouver to the peak-ringed resort of Banff,
losing itself among the region’s super-sized
summits and valleys. Grizzly bears and
moose lie patiently in wait, ready to emerge
from the pinewoods as we roll past. Possibly.
You can’t blame a man for hoping.
None of its trains are sleeper services
— the journey I’m making breaks for the
night in the former fur-trading outpost of
Kamloops — but all four routes have the
very real advantage of beginning or ending
in Vancouver, a self-confident, multicultural
city with the unmistakable air of somewhere
on the threshold of the great outdoors. Here,
green summits busy the horizons, ships ready
themselves for Alaskan cruises and travellers
pore over guidebooks in ramen restaurants.
“We’re on the edge of the world map,”
one Robson Street barman tells me. “That
feels pretty good these days, let me tell you.”
Arriving three days before my train sets
off, I follow local advice and spend my time
beetling around the city by bike, spotting
seals offshore and watching floatplanes
buzzing in from the islands. It’s a fine place
to linger, Vancouver.
But the railroad is calling, and the day
of departure begins early. By 7am, under
brightening West Coast skies, around 700
passengers have filled the warehouse-sized
Rocky Mountaineer terminus, not far from
the Downtown area. It’s immediately clear
that the operation will be a slick one. A grand
piano is being played while people browse
the gift shop, trying on fleeces for size. The
tinkling halts only for a speech by the train
manager and a tune from a ceremonial piper.
March 2021 89
CANADA
We’re then ushered en masse to the
platform, where carriages are split
between SilverLeaf Class (spacious, with
meals served at your seat) and double-decker
GoldLeaf Class (more spacious still, with a
glass-dome coach above a separate dining
area). All of them look as if they’ve been
polished for months. This is no workaday
commuter express.
I make my way to one of the GoldLeaf cars,
which I later learn were built in Germany
then floated down the Panama Canal to reach
Vancouver. The carriage is precision-moulded
and totem-pole tall. Its seats are wide and
deep, with adjustable heating. “Welcome.
We’re very excited to have you here,”
announces onboard host Brandon, wandering
the aisle with a microphone in the manner of a
compere warming up a cabaret audience. We
pull away to see a row of uniformed staff lined
up on the platform to give us a choreographed
send-off. I count 21 of them. You don’t get that
on the 7:40 from Watford Junction.
And so it starts. Clackety-clack, clackety-
clack. Warm cinnamon scone? Ooh, please.
Orange juice and peach bubbly? Well, why
not? A total of 560 miles of track stretch
between Vancouver and Banff, crossing some
90 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
of the grandest natural scenery in North
America. The city outskirts are all wreckers’
yards and industrial estates, but the
promise ahead is of waterfalls and canyons,
lofty snowlines and fearsome alps. For us
passengers, the emphasis is on passivity.
The windows are colossal. All that remains
for us to do once settled in is to fiddle with
the seat controls until we’re contentedly
reclined, then it’s just a case of sitting back
and soaking it all up.
Laying the foundations
On 7 November 1885, shortly before 9.30
in the morning, the last iron spike of the
Canadian Pacific Railway was driven into the
chilly British Columbian earth. It marked the
completion of a railroad that stretched across
the entire continent, an extraordinary east-
west artery that had hurdled rivers, spanned
prairies and tamed wolf-patrolled forests.
The western section, where the Rocky
Mountaineer now roams, represented the
FROM LEFT: Passengers
most superhuman engineering task of the
admire the scenery
lot. This was due, of course, to the majestic through vast, panoramic
but unavoidable presence of the Rockies. windows; sandhill cranes
The contractors of the day made use of and mallards, along the
dynamite, horses and steam-powered drills Fraser River estuary

to forge a route, although at the core of the
project was a workforce of more than 10,000
Chinese labourers, conscripted to build an
iron road through the mountains on a dollar
a day. Accounts of the project make for
grim reading and include tales of freezing
conditions, rampant scurvy and fatal
accidents in godforsaken gullies.
The work, however, meant that Canada was
never the same again. The line revolutionised
cross-country trade and opened up the
west of the nation to new waves of settlers.
It took little time, too, for the powers that
be to recognise the world-class potential of
the Rockies as a visitor destination. “If we
can’t export the scenery,” said William Van
Horne, the then president of the Canadian
Pacific Railway, “then we’ll have to import
the tourists.”
And tourists came, with many of them
arriving by rail. Banff National Park was
established the same year the train line was
finished, becoming the first protected area
of its kind in the country’s history. In its bid
to draw discerning sightseers, the railway
company built luxury hotels, established
hiking trails and even hired a team of Swiss
mountain guides — widely regarded at the
time as the most trusted alpinists. Visitors
came to experience the elemental beauty
IMAGES: GETTY; AWL IMAGES
CANADA
of the outdoors, the stupefying scale of the
landscapes and the thrill of the wildlife. In
those respects, not much has changed.
“Bear!” shrieks a man at the next table,
almost upending a glass of Merlot in the
process. Every head in the dining area swivels
wildly. On a train, each split second matters.
Where? Which way? How many? But the bear
has gone, swallowed up by the sagebrush,
invisible to all but a smug few. We settle down
again to lunch, peering out at the hills and
watching the forests roll out to the distance.
One fact I hadn’t foreseen (although closer
perusal of the map would’ve made it obvious)
is that it’s not until day two of the journey
that the Rocky Mountaineer enters the
Rockies. Day one, however, tees things up
in style. We ease through the fertile Fraser
Valley, with the salmon-rich Fraser River
thundering past in the opposite direction.
We nose through high-cliffed canyons and
dark woods of Douglas fir. And we cross
semi-arid desert, where yellow grasslands
unfurl to the back of beyond. From 11.30 in
the morning onwards, with remote towns
scooting by, the scenery begs to be stared at.
Our carriage’s hosts, Brandon and the
equally well-drilled Rob, wear matching
waistcoats and offer running commentary,
complete with actorly flourishes. They spin
March 2021 91
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tales, answer questions and ferry drinks to

seats. For us passengers — mainly a mix of
Brits, Australians and Americans — a typical
hour might evolve as follows: gaze out of the
window while listening to an account of local
First Nations history; successfully spot an
elk lurking in the woods; wander down to the
open-air section at the rear of the carriage to
feel the cool green breath of the land and see
a bright blue Steller’s jay arrowing out of the
trees; return to seat, well exerted, for wine
and nibbles; repeat.
The carriages are configured so that all
seats face forward. In GoldLeaf class, they’re
are also remarkably high up, granting the
kind of vantage point you might get from
the top of a London bus. Meals are done in
shifts, with half the carriage invited down to
communal tables of four, followed some time
later by the other half. Decor is clean and
contemporary — no gilded Orient Express
trimmings here — and the food, bearing in
mind we’re on a train, aims high.
“We have three chefs in each car,”
executive chef Daniel Stierhof informs me
after lunch on the first day. “Ninety-five
percent of what we serve is cooked on board.
We try to stick to local produce.” Personally
speaking, I’ve never tried preparing Pacific
salmon or a medium-rare Alberta steak
on a moving train, but I imagine it has its
challenges. The drinks are easier. By mid-
afternoon, the in-seat orders for G&Ts and
pale ales are in full flow. The carriage takes
on the feel of a rolling drinks party, with
time in the open-air section the equivalent of
retiring to chat in the kitchen. Conversation
eddies around the train.
The scenery, meanwhile, continues
to astound. The views are backdropped
by clenched-fist mountains, the plains a
leathery brown. There are flat-topped bluffs
and dragon-spine hills. The act of horizon-
gazing becomes hypnotic. From outside, I
spot fleeing deer and two bald eagles soaring
on straight wings. When we reach Kamloops,

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Rocky Mountaineer

passing Seton Lake, a fjord draining into Fraser River;
Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park; Pacific salmon
dished up aboard the Rocky Mountaineer; an onboard
host provides commentary on the passing scenery

92 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 IMAGES: ROCKY MOUNTAINEER; BEN LERWILL; GETTY
CANADA

March 2021 93
CANADA
it’s bathed in evening light. The town is
uncomplicated, with heritage facades and
a smattering of bars and restaurants, but
in truth there’s little chance to see much.
“Tomorrow,” says Brandon, as we head
towards our hotels, “the Rockies.”
Head for heights
The Rocky Mountains are a 3,000-mile tract
of jumbo geology, beginning way down in
New Mexico and reaching an apogee here in
western Canada. Raised and buckled over
tens of millions of years, the mountains
— technically, spanning more than 100
separate ranges — have become some of the
most eulogised on the planet. At a somewhat
bleary-eyed 6.35am the next morning, we’re
on our way towards them, the pink clouds of
dawn showing the way.
Soon the land is all elbows and shoulders,
with giant blades of rock yawning overhead,
their angles soaring and serrated. Our train
has halved in length at Kamloops, sending
a dozen cars north to Jasper while the
remaining 12 make the climb to Banff. It
means that our carriage is now bringing up
the rear, giving uninterrupted views back
along the track. We pass the point where the
94 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
last spike was hammered in, 135 years earlier.
We see osprey nests the size of berry bushes.
A never-ending freight train chunters past
the other way, its 150-plus containers carrying
potash, coal and wheat to Vancouver.
Later that morning, I miss another wildlife
sighting: an apparently very handsome black
bear that has the temerity to wander into
view on the wrong side of the train. By this
stage of the journey, however, I handle the
event with equanimity. Well, maybe semi-
equanimity. The Rocky Mountaineer isn’t
about working through an animal checklist.
Nor is it a journey aimed especially at rail
buffs. More simply, it’s a means of travelling
through wild corners of a beautiful country
— often well away from roads, on tracks
unused by passenger trains — while being
waited on 12 hours a day. Which is, of course,
highly enjoyable.
It won’t be for everyone. Grumbles? One
or two. Luggage is transported by truck,
which seems a needless nudge-up of the
carbon footprint, and I overhear a couple of
moans about meal timings. On occasion, too,
the experience skirts close to being over-
curated. When the train emerges from the
Rockies’ famous set of spiral tunnels into
IMAGES: ROCKY MOUNTAINEER. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
FROM LEFT: The glacial
waters of Lake
Louise, in the heart of the
Canadian Rockies; old-
fashioned signage on a
commercial street in the
town of Banff
 CANADA

ESSENTIALS

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Vancouver

in
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A L BE RTA

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M
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BRITISH COLU MBIA

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Lake Louise

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Kamloops Banff

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Vancouver

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PACIFIC

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OCEAN U N IT ED S TAT ES
OF AMERICA

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Getting there & around
Air Canada and British Airways offer
direct flights to Vancouver from
London. Westjet, Air Canada and British
Airways have direct flights to Calgary,
the nearest international airport to
Banff. There are shuttle services from
Banff to Calgary International Airport.
Average flight time: 9h.

a thunderous mountain panorama, the PA
system starts piping out Louis Armstrong’s
What A Wonderful World. It perhaps doesn’t
take a grouch to think that views like this
can speak for themselves.
“I’ve already taken about a trillion
pictures,” laughs an American passenger
over lunch, showing me his phone. Over
the next few hours, he doubtless takes a
trillion more. The Rockies are now here
with a vengeance. Mount Field is a savage,
snow-dusted pyramid flanked by towering
neighbours. Kicking Horse Canyon is a
waterfall-fed showstopper with glacial, ice-
blue currents. Yoho Valley is preposterous
indigenous inhabitants had been aware of its
amphitheatrical loveliness for some 10,000
years. But if Lake Louise has now become a
classic Instagram magnet, the timeless allure
of the Rockies really becomes apparent from
the mountains above Banff itself.
The 360-degree view from Sanson’s Peak,
reached by a gondola ride and a shortish,
sharpish hike, is a staggering rhapsody of
pine, rock, river and snow. Each mountain
seems to stand alone in its own space, giving
the impression of separate exhibits in some
God-given gallery, rather than a massed chain.
Vintage advertising material for the Rockies
called it ‘50 Switzerlands in one’. Here, you
When to go
The Rocky Mountaineer runs from
mid-April to mid-October, coinciding
with the warmest months of the year in
the region, which reach highs of 23C. As
well as the First Passage to the West
route, other options are Journey
through the Clouds (Vancouver to
Jasper via Kamloops), Rainforest To
Gold Rush (Vancouver to Jasper via
Whistler) and Coastal Passage (between
Seattle and Vancouver).
Where to stay
JW Marriott Parq Vancouver.
marriott.co.uk
Mount Royal Hotel (Banff).
banffjaspercollection.com
Places mentioned
Banff Gondola.
banffjaspercollection.com
Banff Upper Hot Springs. hotsprings.ca

— a giant bowl of land with silvery peaks and
thick, forest-covered slopes. Brandon and
Rob have a busy afternoon with the drinks.
Just before 6pm, we cross the 5,335ft-high
Continental Divide, the route’s highest point.
Gauzy cloud covers the higher summits. We
pull into Banff in near darkness. The journey
itself may be over — tragically, no more dishes
of nuts or pre-meal hot towels — but by way of
compensation we’ve been deposited in one of
Canada’s most celebrated resort towns.
It makes the next two days a joy. First
up is a trip to nearby Lake Louise, which
was drawing tourists even before the first
chalet was built here in 1890. The region’s
can see why. I finish the day wallowing in
Banff Upper Hot Springs, looking out at
Mount Rundle and feeling incredibly small.
Back, finally, to Doris. A couple of years
ago, when her tireless trackside greetings had
long been a feature of the journey, the head
honchos at the rail company decided to invite
her to experience the route in person. The
trip was duly arranged, and when the train
rolled past her house, Doris looked out at
her porch to see a team of uniformed Rocky
Mountaineer staff waving back. Cue tears all
round. This is, above all, a train that prides
itself on its service levels and scenery
— neither of which are easy to fault.
How to do it
ROCKY MOUNTAINEER’S two-day First
Passage to the West, from Vancouver to
Banff, starts from £1,043 per person in
SilverLeaf Service and from £1,427 per
person in GoldLeaf Service. This price
includes two days on board the Rocky
Mountaineer, some meals and one night
in a hotel in Kamloops. Various Covid-19
safety precautions are in place,
including pre-boarding health screening
and daily disinfecting. Onboard
filtration systems circulate fresh air, and
guidelines from the World Health
Organization are followed.
rockymountaineer.com

March 2021 95
RETURN TO
In this new world of sanitation and testing, cruise companies are
reinventing the onboard experience and offering new opportunities.
From wildlife excursions to cultural odysseys and polar visits, we bring
you some of the best cruise experiences for 2021 and beyond

WORDS JULIA BUCKLEY & JAMIE LAFFERTY

96 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 THE SEAS

L E T ’ S B E H O N E S T: 2 0 2 0 W A S N ’ T
THE BEST YE AR FOR CRUISES.

But the focus on ships as a point of potential Covid-19 infection

has meant that cruise companies have introduced strict protocols
for the future — including ones that promise to improve your all-
round experience, with smaller groups and spaced-out excursion
times, plus booking flexibility that was hitherto unheard of.
Some companies, such as Ponant, continued sailing throughout
2020; others are returning to the high seas this year. All have used
the enforced pause in business to work out new safety rules, and
before booking any trip, you should check what the cruise line
is doing to protect both crew and passengers. For starters, you
should expect pre-boarding Covid-19 tests and regular temperature
checks to become routine. Some are going one step further: Saga,
for instance, has already insisted its passengers be fully vaccinated
14 days before sailing. Things might change as the year goes on, but
IMAGE: ANTONY SPENCER

it’s likely that masks will be required in public areas, too. And apart
from the onboard protocols, all itineraries, of course, will depend
on borders being open.
But it’s an exciting time to set sail, especially since social
distancing probably means cruising is about to feel much more
boutique. So grab your passport (and negative test results) — we’ve
picked some of the most exciting trips to lure you back on board.

March 2021 97
CRUISE
BEST FOR EXCLUSIVITY
THE GALÁPAGOS
A tour of the fauna-rich islands offers a rare chance to discover the archipelago at its most
abundant and serene. Words: Jamie Lafferty
So much as anything is normal in the
Galápagos, then its extraordinary marine life
was as curious, colourful and unforgettable
as ever. Surgeonfish still swam in shoals so
tight they could have been canned; eagle
rays still appeared to fly in eerily rehearsed
formation; Pacific green sea turtles still
swooped and meandered with the urgency
of nonagenarians. Everything was as it
should be, and below the waves there were no
indications that surface-dwellers were being
crushed by contagion and fear.
Cruising during a pandemic was surreal
for a number of reasons, but I’d reasoned that
doing so around the Galápagos was just about
worth any perceived risk. The word ‘unique’
is used and abused too frequently in travel
marketing, but this singular archipelago can
be described in that true sense. Which is to
say: if I was going to do it, I wanted to make
sure it was destination worthy of the effort.
Still, there should be no glossing over the
facts: during the onset of Covid-19, some
large cruise ships became enormous petri
dishes, many held at anchor while the virus
ran rampant through their decks. As a result,
amid all the protestations and grievances
that accompanied global lockdown, few
people defended huge cruise ships.
Ecoventura’s luxury yacht the Theory
shares little with those behemoths. Carrying
a maximum of 20 passengers, it’s easy to
micromanage and so is therefore safer.
Besides, the Galápagos is perhaps only
second to Antarctica in providing visitors
with a chance to see nature at its rawest.
Still, thoughts of being consigned to a
plague vessel didn’t exactly make for optimal
holiday preparation, but few of the 14 other
passengers aboard the Theory seemed overly
burdened with concern. A Cuban-American
family had travelled as a group of 10 and were
joined by a mother and son from California,
as well as a retirement-age couple from the
UK. We all had to provide a negative PCR test
to enter mainland Ecuador, then a second to
transfer to the Galápagos.
Once on board, Ecoventura made sure
we had more hand sanitiser than we could
possibly use and explained that their system
of virus management would essentially be to
treat us all as a bubble. This meant mask-
wearing was voluntary and that a lot of faith
was being put in our negative results, but
also that people could actually enjoy the
98 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
untrammelled luxury of forgetting about
Covid-19 — at least for the week.
In order for this to work, it also meant we
couldn’t make scheduled excursions to any
of the towns on the inhabited Galápagos
islands. On the upside, it also meant we
wouldn’t be sharing any sublime beaches or
cliff-top walks with other tourists.
Covid-19 had all but guaranteed exclusivity
for us — normally, up to 100 ships may be
circumnavigating the archipelago, but during
my visit, the Theory was one of just three.
Ecoventura, like other companies, had
advertised that this was a chance to see the
islands as they were 30 years ago. This may
have been true in terms of traffic, but for
the gregarious animals, little had changed.
Whereas it took a complete lockdown of
commerce and community to have animals
creep onto streets in major cities around the
world, on the Galápagos, benches are often
commandeered by sea lions while marine
iguanas litter the pavements nearby.
On the more remote islands, the six-
month absence of tourists hadn’t altered
things much, either. Humans have only had
significant presence on the archipelago for
a few centuries and so animals have, for the
most part, evolved without us in their lives.
Charles Darwin wrote that he was able to
approach a Galápagos hawk that was so naive
he could nudge it with the muzzle of his rifle.
We were lucky enough to watch some of
the world’s rarest creatures act out their daily
dramas only a few feet away from us. The
unrivalled elegance of the mating rituals
of waved albatross on Española Island; the
vicious squabbling of land iguanas on South
Plaza; frigate birds harassing red-billed
tropicbirds as though they were jealous of
their startling beauty.
Time passed differently for those animals
as it had done for us humans over the course
of the carbuncle year that was 2020. But
as I reluctantly disembarked the Theory, it
seemed important to remember that time
was indeed passing. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
Bartolomé Island, with
Last Frontiers can arrange a nine-day trip Santiago Island in the
background, Galápagos;
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES
from £6,656 per person. The itinerary includes
face sculpture, Asilo de
international flights with KLM, a night in
la Paz, Floreana Island,
Quito, return flights to the Galápagos, all Galápagos; Galápagos
national park fees and a seven-night cruise land iguana
aboard the Theory on a full-board basis. PREVIOUS PAGE: Lofoten
lastfrontiers.com in the winter, Norway
 CRUISE

March 2021 99
CRUISE

A raft of king penuins

moulting their feathers
ABOVE: Passengers admire
a glacier calving at Drygalski
Fjord, South Georgia

100 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

BEST FOR POLAR EXPERIENCES
A N TA R C T I C A
Discovering the White Continent on a vessel specially designed to tackle the elements
makes for an unforgettable journey. Words: Jamie Lafferty
The perfect light of Paradise comes rushing
through the end of a short tunnel and slaps
me across the face with a divine hand. I
was looking out of my cabin’s porthole
aboard Aurora Expeditions’ new ship, the
Greg Mortimer, on one of those particularly
flawless polar mornings where ocean and
sky were almost indistinguishable. Paradise
Harbour — we could have been nowhere else.
In that weather, the ship looked like
its brochure shots, shimmering in the
sun, at one with the polar environment in
which it’s been designed to sail. The Greg
Mortimer, named after the Aurora founder
and Australian explorer, is the newest ship
sailing to Antarctica and I was aboard for its
debut season.
Over the course of the epic, 21-day South
Georgia and Antarctic Odyssey cruise, I
heard its revolutionary X-bow variously
described as looking like a bird, a surfaced
submarine and an iron. None of which
were particularly complimentary, but the
technology means the new ship handles
rough seas remarkably well and wastes less
fuel fighting the tumult of the southern seas.
Swell that would have sent glasses flying
on other ships was barely noticeable. Fewer
passengers were seasick, too.
For many of the 120 passengers on
board, this was a mercy as we crossed the
infamous Drake Passage, navigated around
the Antarctic Peninsula, then followed
Shackleton’s legendary, death-defying
route northeast to South Georgia. Lastly, we
IMAGES: JAMIE LAFFERTY; ©PONANT
dodged a mean-looking storm as it barrelled
across the South Atlantic while we crossed to
the Falklands.
Along the way, we found ourselves staring
at forests of spouts as a huge pod of fin
whales pierced the surface. Other times,
we watched albatross follow our new ship
just as they would have the Endurance over
a century ago. Our captain had to be just as
wary of large icebergs, too.
However, the explorer-fantasies were
frequently interrupted by undeniable
comfort. While used for expedition cruises,
the Greg Mortimer is still very much a
cruise ship. Mercifully there was no nightly
entertainment but, menacingly, there was
a grand piano. There was also wi-fi, an
unfortunate and, in my opinion, slightly
unnecessary addition to the polar cruising
experience. Surely the everyday miracles of
the world’s last pristine place are enough to
make you put down your device?
Yet, real adventure never felt far from that
extraordinary bow. Whether that was when
we landed at Salisbury Plain to witness the
sheer bedlam of a king penguin rookery over
200,000-strong, or when saw the contented,
murderous faces of sleek leopard seals
dozing on icebergs.
Aurora continues to push the boundaries,
too. This felt especially true when we made a
daring landing at Point Wild. Like Paradise
Harbour, it could have no other name.
Despite the decades of experience shared
by the Aurora expedition staff, only two
or three had ever landed there before, but
the conditions were just good enough that
expedition leader Stephen Anstee managed
to get us all onto the hallowed, guano-
spattered ground, rotating Zodiacs so we
could make that most unlikely landing.
Aurora’s tech and delivery method have
changed beyond recognition with the arrival
of the Greg Mortimer, but the planning, the
problem-solving and the profound feelings
stirred up by Antarctica endure. Teamwork
and understanding of this magnificent
environment are key — just as they always
have been.
Aurora Expeditions offers the 19-day South
Georgia and Antarctic Odyssey trip from
£13,995 per person on the Greg Mortimer,
departing 20 October 2021 or 13 March 2022.
auroraexpeditions.co.uk
CRUISE
THE POLAR
EXPERIENCE
NICOLAS DUBREUIL, POLAR
& TROPICAL EXPEDITION
EXPERT, PONANT
“The Arctic is like a drug — it’s
addictive. It’s such a powerful
feeling, to bring passengers to
a place nobody’s been before.
To start with, you put your
feet on an unknown place and
think, oh, it’s the same rock as
near my house. But when you
think that maybe no humans
have ever been on that beach,
it’s something completely
alien. When you set foot on a
place with no chart info, and
you’re the first to be there,
it’s an incredible feeling. Man
reached the North Pole in 1969
— the same year we set foot
on the moon. These places are
just incredible, and we write
the story with our passengers.
I’m not interested in the
luxury of the ship — for me,
the most exciting thing is that
it’s connected to the outside.
There’s a corridor around the
whole ship, and you can go
anywhere. You can even move
your bed onto your balcony if
you want!
March 2021 101
 ADVENTURE DELIVERED

LUXURY
INCLUDED

KOMODO NATIONAL PARK, INDONESIA

An extraordinary collection of curated itineraries spans the globe to offer bold

adventure and fascinating insight into the world’s most remote destinations. Aboard
the largest and most spacious luxury expedition yacht, a mere 200 guests will travel
in exceptional all-suite, all-verandah comfort, hosted by Crystal’s award-winning
staff, attentive butlers, and team of expedition and destination experts. Prepare
for unexpected discovery, Zodiac adventures, rare wildlife sightings and intimate
connections with little-explored landscapes and intriguing cultures. Explore with
Crystal and embark on an expedition Where Luxury is Personal™.

VISIT CRYSTALEXPEDITIONCRUISES.CO.UK
FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A BOOKING,
PLEASE CONTACT YOUR PREFERRED TRAVEL ADVISOR OR CALL 020 7399 7601
 CRUISE

BEST FOR WILDLIFE

RIVERS OF
WEST AFRICA
National parks crammed with migratory
birds, chimps, crocodiles and stone circles?
A fascinating yacht cruise up the Gambia
River and along the coast of West Africa
packs in no fewer than four natural reserves,
UNESCO-protected sites and a sharp dose of
Britain’s slavery history in just eight days.
It’s one for birdwatchers, in particular,
with more than 250 species, many of
which are found nowhere else, in Kiang
West National Park in The Gambia. That’s
halfway through your trip, heading down
the Senegal coast from starting point
Dakar, and then inland eastwards about 150
miles from Banjul to Janjanbureh. Kiang
West is home to around half of all The
Gambia’s bird species, including 10 kinds
of kingfishers, fiery red-beaked bateleurs
and the endangered brown-necked parrot.
Though that’s not the only stand-out place
on the route; Senegal’s Sine-Saloum Delta, a
UNESCO-designated biosphere reserve and
IBA (Important Bird and Biodiversity Area),
is another highlight, known for its migratory
birds including greater flamingos, Eurasian
spoonbills and royal terns to be found among
the 200 mangrove-covered islands.
It’s not all feathered friends on this trip,
of course; there’s marine wildlife including
manatees, dolphins and crocs; hippos, bush
babies and marsh mongoose; and the 100
chimps living contact-free on three islands
as part of the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation
Project, near Kuntaur. Plus trips to fishing
villages and UNESCO Cultural Heritage Sites,
including the megaliths at Wassu, and Kunta
Kinteh Island, a former slave-trading post
under the British Empire. JB

Variety Cruises offers eight days from £1,200

per person, including three daily meals,
welcome cocktail, tea, coffee and water, a
captain’s dinner and a themed evening.
Excludes port charges, gratuities, shore
IMAGES: GETTY; AWL IMAGES

excursions and other drinks. Departs 22

December 2021. varietycruises.com

FROM TOP: Fisherman on the shore of Gambia River,

Gambia; street on the island of Gorée, Dakar, Senegal

March 2021 103

CRUISE
BEST FOR ADVENTURE
GREENLAND
There are two key reasons to join this Ponant-
run trip: the first is the itinerary, of course
— a journey deep into the Arctic, to a remote
community in the Western Hemisphere;
the second is the ship itself. Debuting in
2021, Le Commandant-Charcot is the world’s
first hybrid-electric polar exploration ship
powered by liquefied natural gas. It doesn’t
just have chic Gallic staterooms (135 of them),
two restaurants, two pools and a winter
garden, but it’s also a genuine icebreaker.
The vessel is Polar Class 2-rated, meaning it
can operate year-round in moderate multi-
year ice conditions and go where many polar
104 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
cruise ships cannot — although Ponant says
it’ll stick to ice floes, rather than unbroken
ice, for environmental reasons. There’s even
a science lab on board for research on the go.
This trip, specially designed for the new
ship, sets off from Reykjavik and heads
to Ittoqqortoormiit, on the east coast of
Greenland — the Western Hemisphere’s
most remote inhabited community,
where brightly coloured houses cleave
to the shoreline. From there, it’ll head
into Northeast Greenland National Park,
the world’s largest, with sheer cliffs, vast
glaciers and wild tundra — and no sign of
other humans. As the ice floe starts breaking
up for summer, there may be a chance to
observe wildlife, including polar bears, orcas
and Arctic foxes. The boat will head north to
Île-de-France if fortune stays on your side,
before looping back to Reykjavik. JB
National Geographic Expeditions offers a
12-day cruise from £14,230 per person,
including all meals, drinks including alcohol
and house champagne (excluding premium
brands), tips, minibar and most activities,
such as zodiac landings. Departs 24 June 2021.
nationalgeographicexpeditions.co.uk
 CRUISE

BEST FOR VIEWS

N O R WAY
Working with his fisherman father from
the age of 12, Per Sævik grew up watching
ships slide up Norway’s west coast. Today,
he and his children own Havila, a shipping
company that’s set to launch four new
cruise ships on the classic Bergen-Kirkenes
route for 2021. The 12-day return voyage
includes stops at 34 ports, slipping through
narrow fjords and skimming gargantuan
sheer cliffs, ticking off no fewer than four
UNESCO World Heritage Sites and crossing
the Arctic Circle twice as the boat connects
remote coastal communities. Locals will
also use the boats as a point-to-point service.
The focus is on seeing life as the Norwegians
live it, so at each port, the chefs will source
local ingredients, from juicy, just-netted cod
to golden cloudberries from the far north.
Highlights include sailing round the tip
of Europe at the North Cape plateau; island-
hopping in the Lofoten archipelago; and
soaking up the sights of Geirangerfjord, with
its Seven Sisters waterfall gushing from the
cliffside. It’s not just about the natural sights,
though: there are city stops, too, including
Trondheim, with its medieval cathedral;
art nouveau Ålesund; and Honningsvåg, a
contender for the world’s northernmost town.
Seeking tranquillity? The ships are partially
battery-powered, meaning they can glide
through the fjords emission-free for up to four
hours. You’ll need to join the full 12-day return
trip to hit all 34 ports during the day, but one-
way trips are also bookable. JB
A Havila Voyages ship beneath
the Northern Lights in Norway’s
Havila Voyages offers a 12-day cruise from Lofoten archipelago
£829 per person, including wi-fi, meals (but no LEFT: The fishing village of
drinks) and some onboard activities. Tipping Saatut, Greenland
not expected. Departures from April 2021 (five
to six departures a month). havilavoyages.com

CLOSE TO NATURE

STEFFEN BIERSACK, EXPEDITION LEADER ON THE MS ROALD AMUNDSEN, HURTIGRUTEN

IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ©HAVILA VOYAGES

“We’re committed to nature, which means
keeping our footprint as small as possible.
Our ship reflects this intention: we can run
for a limited time on batteries alone, and
recycling and protecting prevails.
From the ship, you see nature at its finest,
from crossing oceans and ‘meeting’ rare
wildlife (often up close) to witnessing the
food chain in action from a prime position.
Observing a pod of orcas teaching their
young how to bring down a minke whale was
an unforgettable experience, and stopping
next to a group of humpbacks who sprayed
us with their blows is up there with my
favourite moments.
In the mornings, I enjoy my first coffee
on the outer deck on the bow or, in really
foul weather, on the bridge. As a hobbyist
musician, I also like the Explorer Lounge,
with its digital grand piano. My office is
next to the Amundsen Science Center, so I
often pop in to listen to a lecture. Next to an
armada of high-end microscopes, we have
an open, well-stocked museum, with replicas
of animal skeletons, teeth and eggs from
all the areas we travel to. It’s a stunning first
impression when you come on board.”

March 2021 105

 DIE NEUE
EXPEDITIONSKLASSE

NATURE HAS A LOT TO OFFER. AND SO DO WE.

The Antarctic is our planet‘s great unknown – and an even greater adventure.
Board the HANSEATIC inspiration for fascinating expeditions on the trail of the great explorers. Where imposing
glaciers feed the oceans and icebergs seem to block the way to the diverse animal kindom, the small expedition
ship and its manoeuvrable Zodiacs will find safe passage to the secret world of the sixth continent.
Time for a surprising voyage of discovery on the HANSEATIC inspiration.

For more information about our cruises to the Antarctic visit www.hl-cruises.com/expedition-class

Hapag-Lloyd Cruises,
a TUI Cruises GmbH company
Heidenkampsweg 58, 20097 Hamburg, Germany
service@hl-cruises.com
free phone 08000 513829
www.hl-cruises.com

BEST FOR CULTURE
MEKONG RIVER
Cruise-curious? Vietnam and Cambodia have
long been a classic pairing, and Viking River
Cruise’s Magnificent Mekong is a great choice
for those who aren’t sure about spending
two weeks on one ship — of this 15-day trip,
only eight are spent on board. You’ll start
with three days in Hanoi before flying to
Cambodia, where Siem Reap’s impressive
temples, including Angkor Wat and Ta
Prohm, await. A coach journey through the
countryside then delivers you to Kampong
Cham, where the boat starts its journey.
A new ship will debut on this route for
the 2021 season: the 40-stateroom Viking
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES
Saigon, tailor-made to navigate the Mekong,
launches on 30 August. For days six to 13 of
the journey, you’ll watch one of the world’s
most famous rivers glide by through the
floor-to-ceiling cabin windows, hopping off
Travelling down the
Mekong Delta in Can Tho
province, Vietnam
to visit holy mountains and quiet villages,
docking in Cambodia’s beautiful, chaotic
capital, Phnom Penh, and crossing into
Vietnam. Life slows down here, with sampan
trips down the palm-fronded delta, views
of emerald-swaddled hills and the floating
market of Cái Bè. Finally, you’ll arrive in Ho
Chi Minh City. It may not be one for those
looking to maximise time spent on the water,
but if your priority is getting the most out of
the destination, this is the cruise for you. JB
Viking River Cruises offers a 15-day cruise from
£5,595 per person, including flights from the
UK, a river-view stateroom, all on-board meals
(including wine, beer and soft drinks for lunch
and dinner), wi-fi, gratuities and an excursion
at almost every port. Departs 30 August 2021.
vikingrivercruises.co.uk
CRUISE
COVID-SAFE CRUISING
AMID THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC,
CRUISE COMPANIES ARE
IMPOSING STRICT PROTOCOLS
AS THE INDUSTRY GETS BACK
UP AND RUNNING FOR 2021
On-board medical staff will
be key to keeping passengers
safe, as will rapid testing
facilities. On Ponant ships,
whose onboard protocol has
been developed in conjunction
with the Méditerranée
Infection Foundation, Covid-19
tests can be processed in as
little as 20 minutes.
Expect to need a negative
Covid-19 test before boarding,
and to have your temperature
taken every time you get on or
off the ship. Some companies
will go further — Variety
Cruises, for example, will
screen passengers and crew for
body temperature, infectious
antibodies and blood oxygen
content daily. Mask policy will
depend on the cruise line.
Cleaning will likely be
upped. Expect hospital-
grade disinfection and UV
sterilisation of staterooms
and even the air con.
There may be unexpected
perks too, in the form of
smaller group excursions and
trips timed to avoid crowds.
Variety Cruises is promising
to fill coaches to half capacity,
offer swim stops away from
crowded beaches and avoid
sites at rush hour. Havila
Voyages, meanwhile, will
enforce distancing between
guests not travelling together.
Check the refund and
flexibility policy. Ensure you
take out insurance and book a
trip that can be cancelled.
New ships have extra Covid
perks. Havila Voyages has
installed washbasins at
restaurant entrances and made
cafe counters enclosed, so only
staff can touch the food. JB
March 2021 107
 CRUISE

BEST FOR REMOTENESS

S O U T H PAC IF I C
Keen to put some distance between
you and 2020? Try this 24-day cruise
through the Pacific, from Keelung
to Fiji via the islands of the South
Pacific. Hapag-Lloyd bills it as ‘for
true explorers’ — and that’s not just
because the official language is German
(although all crew speak English).
Departing Keelung, you’ll sail southeast
until the 200-plus volcanic and coral
islands that make up Palau start
mushrooming from the jade ocean.
From there, it’s one island nation after
another, with the odd volcano dropped
in for effect, until you hit the Gilbert
Islands. Next, it’s southwards to Fiji,
dropping in on Tuvalu en route.
Excursions include kayaking through
mangroves, meeting families who live
on remote atolls, exploring an ancient
ruined city in the Caroline Islands and a
scenic flight in Palau. And if you’re wary
about committing to 24 days at sea, take
heart — the ship, the Hanseatic Spirit,
is new for 2021, and has more open
deck space than traditional expedition
ships, as well as an observation deck
and glass-floored balcony cantilevered
over the water. There’s also an indoor
observation lounge for when the sun
gets too much. We can but dream. JB
Hapag-Lloyd Cruises offers 24 days from
£15,793 per person, including flights and
transfers, non-alcoholic minibar, full-
board meals (excluding drinks) and a £181
beverage credit. Departs 15 October 2021.
hl-cruises.com

BEST FOR NEW DISCOVERIES Coral reef and palm trees, Fiji

SOUTH AMERICA LEFT: Llama in the Atacama

Desert, Chile

Peru, Ecuador and Chile: together, they’re

one of the most traversed tourist circuits in
South America — but with this Hurtigruten
trip, expect a less-trammelled side of the
Andean big-hitters. Even better, you’ll start in
Panama, seeing that world-changing canal,
before crossing the Equator (complete with
a ceremony asking for the ocean’s blessing)
and arriving in Ecuador on day four.
As well as major cities like Lima,
Guayaquil and Arequipa, the tour visits
more remote spots rich in South American
history and culture. In Ecuador, you’ll see
pre-Columbian art and stroll through the
Puyango Petrified Forest. Crossing into Peru,
swap the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu for
remnants of even earlier civilisations: the
crumbling desert city of Chan Chan, once the
capital of the Chimú Kingdom, and the Sun
and Moon temples of the Moche civilisation.
You can fly over the mysterious Nazca Lines,
explore uninhabited Peruvian islands and
see where the desert meets the beach in
Arica, one of the world’s driest cities, just
over the border in Chile. The cruise ends in
boho Valparaíso, where an optional trip to
Easter Island can be added on. JB

Hurtigruten offers 16 days from £3,867,

including transfers, a pre-cruise night in
Panama City, breakfast, lunch and dinner
IMAGES: GETTY

(including house alcoholic drinks), wi-fi, tea

and coffee, some excursions and a ‘Citizen
Science’ programme. Departs 8 October 2021.
hurtigruten.co.uk

March 2021 109

CRUISE

ENVIRONMENT
THE PROGRESS

A clean getaway?
Emissions are the big issue
when it comes to ships, and
several smaller cruise lines
have been making progress in
this area. Aurora Expeditions,
for example, uses marine gas
oil instead of diesel, and has
bows designed to reduce fuel
consumption and emissions-
cutting engines. All Ponant
vessels have achieved high
ratings from Cleanship, which
tackles the environmental
impact of the maritime
industry, and produce minimal
noise and vibrations, which
are disturbing to marine life.
And Hurtigruten, which has
banned heavy fuel oil across its
fleet, is retrofitting ships with
LBG (liquefied biogas) and LNG
(liquefied natural gas) engines
and battery packs in a move
that, it’s hoped, will reduce
nitrogen oxide (NOx) levels by
up to 90%. Manhattan at sunset,
New York City
Out with the old
New ships are being built with
environmental efforts in mind,
too. Take Le Commandant- BEST FOR HISTORY BEST FOR PLANNING AHEAD
Charcot, Ponant’s new polar
region ship — the first hybrid- QUÉBEC CIT Y TO BR A ZIL TO THE
electric polar exploration
ship powered by LNG. Havila NE W YORK CIT Y CARIBBEAN
Voyages’ vessels, meanwhile,
boast energy-efficient hulls,
designed for Norwegian coastal This journey takes in not just two countries, April 2022 may seem a long way off, but
conditions, and hydro-powered but two languages, three big-hitter cities and you’ll want to get planning for this one: a
battery packs, allowing them some of the best parts of New England. Brush 21-day trip that kicks off in Brazil, continues
to sail emission-free for up to off your O-level French as you start in Québec along French Guiana, Suriname and Guyana,
four hours. Hurtigruten has City, where you’ll have 24 hours to wander takes in island-hopping in Trinidad and
two new hybrid ships that the UNESCO-listed Historic District, see the Tobago and finishes off in Barbados.
cut emissions by sailing with Montmorency Falls and eat all the poutine you But first to Brazil: fresh off the beach at
electric propulsion. can manage. From there, the boat will wind Fortaleza, you’ll sail to Belém, then into the
through the Gulf of St Lawrence and into the Amazon region for jungle excursions and
Plain sailing Bay of Fundy, before dropping anchor at Saint encounters with giant water-lilies, pink
Onboard initiatives are also John, Canada’s oldest incorporated city. dolphins and caimans, plus a day in Manaus,
important. Hurtigruten, for Next up, it’s New England’s greatest hits: where the world’s most remote opera house
instance, has eliminated single- you’ll sail along Maine’s coast, visit Boston, awaits. Sailing north, you’ll combine wildlife
use plastics across its fleet. and see the stately homes of America’s first with colonial architecture in the likes of
Variety Cruises is following suit millionaires in Newport, Rhode Island, Paramaribo and Georgetown, before reaching
and is also investing in water before finally ending up in the Big Apple. JB the Caribbean. And relax… JB
purification systems. Both
cruise lines also encourage Crystal Cruises offers an eight-night cruise Silversea offers a 21-day cruise from £9,720,
IMAGE: GETTY

crew and guests to take part from £3,155, including meals, drinks including flights, transfers, one night’s
in beach clean-ups. JB (including alcoholic options), gratuities pre- and post-cruise hotel, wi-fi, gratuities,
and wi-fi. Departs 25 September 2021. shore excursions and all food and drink.
crystalcruises.co.uk Departs 4 April 2022. silversea.com

110 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Hybrid Powered Expedition Cruising
New Season 2022/23

Antarctica

The Final
Frozen Pure and pristine, this is a
frozen world few have had
the privilege to experience.
Antarctica is the most isolated
continent on Earth. It’s frozen
mountains, great glaciers, and

Frontier
stunning icebergs off er an
experience like no other. Tread
on ice two kilometres thick in
this awe-inspiring Antarctic
landscape. Witness the
dramatic battle that wildlife
wages against the elements,
and sometimes with each other.

On an expedition cruise with

Hurtigruten, you’ll visit penguin
colonies on the Antarctic
Peninsula, see sea lions,
walruses, seals, and whales,
and learn about the region’s
history of exploration and whaling.

Sustainability is at the core

of every part of our operations.
Using the UN Sustainability
Development Goals as our
framework, our vision is to leave
a footprint we are proud of.

ANTARCTICA IS
© GUNTER KRAUSE, GUDKOV ANDREY, HURTIGRUTEN AS, MARSEL VAN OOSTEN / HURTIGRUTEN
WAITING FOR YOU
New Season 2022/23
Come and explore the most remote wilderness
in the world with the experts who know it best. BOOK NOW!
CALL 0203 733 9588 | VISIT WWW.HURTIGRUTEN.CO.UK | CONTACT YOUR PREFERRED TRAVEL AGENT
PARTNER CONTENT FOR TOKYO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU
 PARTNER CONTENT FOR TOKYO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

SPACE
& SERENIT Y IN
TOK YO
It might be the world’s largest urban area, but finding space
and silence in Tokyo is surprisingly easy. Dig deeper to discover
an archipelago, spacious gardens and peaceful city nooks

Tokyo is a city of mind-boggling
immensity: it sees a population of 14
million people crammed in between green
hills and Pacific tides. But inquisitive
visitors to the capital soon realise that
stillness and nature are never too far away
— places where the rumble of traffic gives
way to birdsong, where skyscrapers are
replaced by avenues of cherry trees and
where cooling onshore breezes banish any
sense of lingering claustrophobia.
IMAGES: GETTY
alone among the pools and pagodas of the
Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. Just
north of the famously lively crossroads of
Shibuya is the tranquil beauty of Yoyogi
Park, the spiritual sanctuary of Meiji
Jingu shrine and the evergreen forest
surrounding it.
Tokyo’s gastronomy, nightlife, shopping
and culture are all world-renowned
— and for good reason. But less celebrated
is the landscape that lies beyond the city

Many of these sites exist right next limits, where you can hike in volcanic
to some of the busiest corners of the foothills around Mount Fuji or find
city. Within a short stroll of the bars of seclusion in the archipelago beyond
downtown Shinjuku, you’ll find yourself Tokyo Harbour.
PARTNER CONTENT FOR TOKYO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU
EXPLORING TOKYO:
THE THREE-DAY ITINERARY
Whether it’s cycling through
leafy districts, admiring the
city’s temples or navigating a
plethora of museums, here’s
a guide for exploring the city
away from the crowds
FROM LEFT: Statue of Buddha on a
lotus flower, Sensoji Temple; sunset
over the Rainbow Bridge and
Tokyo skyline from Odaiba
PREVIOUS PAGE FROM LEFT:
Meiji Jingu forest; traditional
doorway at the Meiji Jingu
shrine, Shibuya
DAY ONE
Morning
Shinjuku is famous as Tokyo’s nightlife
district — but it’s worth exploring during the
quieter daylight hours too. Start at Ichiban-
gai gate and look out for the Godzilla statue,
which roars at passing pedestrians. Potter
around Omoide Yokocho — an alleyway that
delivers a delicious waft of bygone Japan,
with hanging lanterns and fragrant clouds
billowing from yakitori (skewered chicken)
stalls. For a fix of greenery, turn westward
to Shinjuku Gyoen or south to Meiji Jingu.
env.go.jp
Afternoon
Meiji Jingu is home to a broadleaf forest
crisscrossed by gravel paths, at the
centre of which stands an ornate Shinto
shrine, dedicated to Emperor Meiji, who
transformed Japan in the 19th century.
Stepping inside the shrine is kind of a
transformation too: with towering torii gates
and pilgrims ritually purifying themselves
with water. Continue on into Yoyogi Park
— a green enclave beloved of Tokyoites on
their lunch hour. meijijingu.or.jp
Evening
Tokyo Skytree may be the tallest tower in
the world, but the open-air Sky Deck at
Mori Tower is more evocative: especially at
dusk, when ferries putter past the harbour,
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY
and rush hour sets the highways ablaze
with car lights. Access is dependent on
weather. tcv.roppongihills.com
Don’t miss: Tomigaya, a bohemian district
of coffeeshops, food trucks and boutiques at
the southern end of Yoyogi Park.
 PARTNER CONTENT FOR TOKYO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

DAY TWO DAY THREE

Morning
Neon, noisy and nerdy, Akihabara is
Tokyo’s ‘Electric Town’ — the spiritual
home of arcade games, video billboards
and stores selling almost anything with an
electric circuit. Get to grips with Tokyo’s
‘otaku’ subculture at the eight-storey
Mandarake Complex, whose shelves stock
an encyclopedic array of manga. Akihabara
can get busy in the evenings, so go early to
avoid crowds. mandarake.co.jp
Afternoon
Comprising the districts of Yanaka, Nezu
and Sendagi, Yanesen is home to many leafy
alleyways that are too narrow for motorised
traffic — making them ideal for cyclists and
pedestrians. Hire a bike from Tokyobike,
and pedal eastwards to the avenues that
traverse Yanaka Cemetery, west to the
serene Nezu Shrine, or take a pit stop in
Kayaba, a traditional coffeeshop dating back
to the 1930s.
Evening
Already a millennium old when Tokyo was
made capital in 1868, ancient Senso Ji is a
Buddhist temple of towering pagodas and
clouds of incense, sited at the end of the
shopping street of Nakamise-dori. It’s a
little quieter after dark, when the complex is
illuminated against the night sky.
Don’t miss: The lively shopping street of
Yanaka Ginza, flanked by historic houses
that survived the Second World War.
Morning
Inokashira-koen is a beloved weekend
retreat for residents of western Tokyo:
a park centred around a tapering pond
shaded by cypress and cherry trees. On
an island in the lake, you’ll find a Shinto
shrine to Benzaiten: the Japanese goddess
of everything that flows, including
water, music, words and eloquence. The
fascinating Studio Ghibli museum is located
in the southwest corner. MEET THE LOCAL
Sumi-e teacher
Afternoon Yuta Honda
Studio Ghibli’s animations are some of
Japan’s greatest cultural exports, and this A Tokyo resident of
museum offers a chance to see the incredible 20 years, Yuta Honda
sketches of Hayao Miyazaki in real life. For teaches visitors the
fans of the films, the fun doesn’t stop there ancient art of sumi-e
— there’s also the chance to meet the robot ink wash painting at
from Castle in the Sky, board the famous his father’s studio in
Catbus from My Neighbour Totoro and come Chiyoda City
face to face with No-Face from Spirited Away.
ghibli-museum.jp Where’s your go-to
spot for peace?
Evening I’ll go to a shrine or a
An artificial island in Tokyo Bay, Odaiba is temple near where I
the perfect place to watch the sunset over live — it instantly relaxes
Rainbow Bridge — bag a spot near Aqua and inspires me.
City shopping mall. Later, let off steam at
the adjacent Oedo Onsen Monogatari — a What’s the one
theme park centred on the sacred Japanese thing visitors
institution of the onsen. daiba.ooedoonsen.jp shouldn’t miss?
Don’t miss: The Unicorn Gundam, a 65ft The maze-like
statue from the Gundam anime series who underground stations
puts on an impressive light show after dark. — like Shinjuku, Shibuya
and Ikebukuro. Don’t be
scared and enjoy losing
yourself in them.

Do you have a
favourite view in
the city?
There’s a magical
place near my gallery,
between Budokan
— the martial arts hall
— and Yasukuni Shrine,
from which you can see
both the Tokyo Skytree
and the Tokyo Tower.
Go on a spring night,
when the path is lined
with cherry blossoms.

Which taste
symbolises Tokyo?
An onigiri rice ball. It
really embodies Tokyo’s
hard-working spirit
— it’s fast energy for
workers with no time.
And it tastes good.
toyokunihonda.tokyo
PARTNER CONTENT FOR TOKYO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU
THE ISLAND MATCHMAKER
Hop around Tokyo’s islands
and explore serene beaches
with few tourists in sight
The volcanic Izu Islands feel worlds apart
from the futuristic metropolis of Tokyo
— stretching some 400 miles from the
mouth of Tokyo Bay into the Pacific Ocean.
Fast hydrofoils link Tokyo to the inner
islands of Oshima, Niijima, Shikinejima and
Kozushima, with outer islands served by
passenger ferries. Most of them can also be
accessed via a short plane ride from Chofu
Airport or Hachijojima. All that’s left to do
now is decide which islands should be on
your must-see list.
BEST FOR: VOLCANOES
Oshima
Oshima is the largest of the Izu Islands
— it was here that the Japanese government
imprisoned Godzilla in one instalment
of the famous movie franchise. In reality,
Oshima is home to another fearsome beast
— the 2,507ft Mount Mihara — an active
volcano where you can hike to the summit.
Soothe trail-weary limbs in one of the
island’s onsens — Motomachi Hama-no-yu
has views to the mainland. Oshima is also
famous for its beautiful camellia flowers,
which bloom red in winter.
Distance: 1h45m by boat from Tokyo, or
25m by plane from Chofu Airport.
BEST FOR: STARGAZING
Toshima
Toshima is truly an island off the beaten
track: it claims just one solitary village.
Being fairly close to the mainland, it affords
fine views of Mount Fuji — especially from
the 1,417ft summit of Mount Miyatsuka.
For intergalactic scenes, take a night walk
to Minami ga Yama Park on the far side of
the island. It’s a popular spot for stargazing,
due to the minimal light pollution.
Distance: 2h30m by boat from Tokyo.
BEST FOR: SURFING
Niijima
This long and thin island served as a prison
up until the 19th century, but is now a
paradisal hotspot beloved by locals and
tourists alike. Niijima’s defining feature
is Habushiura Shore, an almost four-mile
stretch of white sand, whose breaks are
beloved of Tokyo surfers. Novices should
watch out for strong currents, or head to
the more sheltered Mamashita Beach for
a gentle paddle. This island is also a great
place to try sashimi — a delicacy of raw fish.
Distance: 3h by boat from Tokyo, or 35m by
plane from Chofu Airport.
BEST FOR: SWIMMING
Kozushima
Strong currents make the waters around the
Izu Islands the domain of strong swimmers
only. One exception is the Akasaki
Promenade in northwest Kozushima, where
a timber walkway traverses the cliffs, and
steps lead down to shallow, sheltered bays
where all comers can splash about. The
island lends itself to being explored by bike,
with rental available from local shops.
Distance: 3h10m by boat from Tokyo, or
40m by plane from Chofu Airport.

BEST FOR: DIVING
Miyakejima
Miyakejima makes for an arresting sight
— a volcanic eruption in 1983 left mighty
lava flows leading all the way down to a
rugged coastline of sea arches and tidal
pools. Below the surface, it’s equally
enthralling — underwater lava formations,
coral reefs and a staggering variety of
marine life all make Miyakejima popular
with divers. It’s easy to arrange scuba
expeditions out of the village of Miyake.
dolphin-club-miyakejima.com
Distance: 6h30m by boat from Tokyo, or
45m by plane from Chofu Airport.
BEST FOR: DOLPHINS
Mikurajima
The smaller sister island to Miyakejima,
Mikurajima’s slopes are home to rare
orchids, mulberry trees, beech woods
and fewer than 400 human residents.
Its most famous characters, however, are
the population of dolphins that frequent
IMAGES: GETTY
its shoreline from April to November.
Swimming tours start from £200.
marugotomikurajima.com
Distance: 7h30m by boat from Tokyo.
PARTNER CONTENT FOR TOKYO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU
BEST FOR: HIKING FROM LEFT: Camping-style sashimi
Hachijojima with freshly caught fish, Niijima
A distinct language and cuisine sets Island; coastline of Hachijojima
Hachijojima apart from the other islands,
but so too does its landscape. It claims two
mighty volcanoes, including the tallest
in the archipelago, Mount Hachijo-Fuji
(2,802ft). Take a nine-mile hike from
Sokodo Campsite to the summit, passing
windswept grasslands, meadows where
cows graze and soaring ridges, from which
you can scan the sea for breaching whales.
Distance: 10h25m by boat from Tokyo, or
55m by plane from Haneda Airport. Essentials
BEST FOR: ISOLATION
Getting there: Japan Airlines,
Aogashima British Airways and ANA all
Aogashima is a little landmass set some 220 offer direct flights from the
miles from Tokyo. However, its remoteness UK to Tokyo. To discover more
is all part of its appeal — a steep road about Tokyo, visit gotokyo.org.
from the port leads to a verdant caldera, For the latest Covid-19 updates
and prevention measures,
a volcano-powered sauna, a huddle of
visit gotokyo.org/en/plan/
houses and little else. The striking Kanju coronavirus-information
Monument commemorates the return of the
islanders after the volcanic eruption of 1785
forced them to evacuate for half a century.
Distance: 20m by plane from Hachijojima
— no direct services from Tokyo.
To find out more, visit tokyotokyo.jp
 CIT Y LIFE

BANGKOK
With its boho bars, blossoming crop of art and design
festivals, and a burgeoning Creative District, the Thai
capital is becoming a Southeast Asian hotspot for lovers
of art. WORDS: Lee Cobaj PHOTOGRAPHS: Ulf Svane

118 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
March 2021 119
BANGKOK
T
he crowd jump to their feet as local
star Chulachak ‘Hugo’ Chakrabongse
takes to the stage with a tip of his
straw hat. “He was signed to Jay-Z’s Roc
Nation record label and wrote Beyoncé’s
song Disappear, which appeared on her
I Am... Sasha Fierce album,” explains my
friend, foreign correspondent and long-time
Bangkok resident Philip Sherwell, as the
Thai actor/model/musician works the crowd
with his easy bluegrass beats. “Hugo’s also
related to the royal family,” adds Philip.
Unlikely as it seems from this popstar
performance, Hugo comes from the royal
line of King Rama V, one of the most
forward-thinking monarchs in Thailand’s
history. It’s an attitude that’s worked
its way down the generations, as Hugo’s
mother, Narisa Chakrabongse, doesn’t just
undertake royal duties, but is also an author,
environmentalist, owner of publishing
house River Books and organiser of the
Bangkok Edge Festival, where I now sit
happily tapping my toes. This ‘festival of
ideas’ pops up every other February in the
grounds of royal enclave Chakrabongse
Villas (which is also a boutique hotel) and in
the opulent Museum Siam, close to the Chao
Phraya River.
It’s just one of dozens of festivals and
creative events that populate Bangkok’s
120 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
FROM LEFT: Fresh
increasingly packed cultural calendar.
produce on sale at Pak
There’s also Galleries’ Night, when venerable
Khlong Talat food and
museums and galleries across the city throw flower market, near
open their doors after hours; Bangkok Art Memorial Bridge; a
Biennale, which takes over the city for four sharply-dressed fruit
months every other year and forged ahead in vendor; dried fish snacks
2020 despite Covid-19. sold in the riverside Bang
There’s also Design Week, the Rak neighbourhood
PREVIOUS PAGES:
International Festival of Dance and Music,
Customers sip drinks at
and no fewer than five film festivals:
Coffee Roaster by li-bra-
Bangkok International Film Festival, World ry, a cafe in Warehouse
Film Festival of Bangkok, Thai Short Film 30, Bang Rak; blooms on
and Video Festival, Bangkok Gay and Lesbian sale in Pak Khlong Talat
Film Festival, and Bangkok ASEAN Film
Festival, all of which will continue in some
shape or form during the pandemic. In fact,
check local listings and you’ll find plenty
more events happening on a weekly basis
right across the city, lockdown allowing.
During a day at Edge, flitting from
environmental talks about the Mekong
River to creative writing workshops, an
arts and crafts market to food trucks
selling spiced beef brioche sandwiches and
mangoes prepared more ways than I could
ever imagine, I catch up with Montonn
Jira, a DJ and music producer who founded
Thailand’s fabulous Wonderfruit music
festival. The annual event, which is held in
the countryside about 90 minutes outside
Bangkok, is now in its seventh year.

Tongue twister // It has pop-up farm shops, stages built from
recycled materials, a no-plastic policy and
Bangkok’s official some seriously experimental vibes (last
year’s event included an attempt to generate
full name is — deep empathy, by measuring people’s body
breath — Krung temperature and heart rate). “It’s not our goal
to just recreate something like Coachella
Thep Mahanakhon or Glastonbury,” says Jira. “We want to
build a platform for sharing ideas, but in
Amon Rattanakosin a sustainable way, using Thai materials,
Mahinthara art, architects, produce, food and music.
Highlighting local talent is what excites us.”
Ayuthaya Mahadilok One such local talent is Bangkok
photographer and artist Bryce
Phop Noppharat Watanasoponwong. Bryce’s enigmatic
Ratchathani Burirom works have caught the eye of Saatchi
Art, made the finals of the San Francisco
Udomratchaniwet Street Photography Contest and have been
displayed in galleries from Morocco to
Mahasathan Amon London to Sydney, and at festivals such as
Piman Awatan
Edge. His dreamlike, contemporary images
of Bangkok’s streets, people and waterways
Sathit Sakkathattiya are a long way from the traditional art more
usually associated with Thailand, such as the
Witsanukam Prasit naka serpent statues, temple mosaics and
dance rituals. “There’s been a big emergence
of local talent over the last five years,” he
tells me. “People haven’t always been able
to express themselves freely in the past,
for a variety of reasons — both political
BANGKOK
and cultural — and there are still outside
pressures, but there are more and more
events like Edge that are really helping to
encourage young local artists to come out
and be themselves.”
At the time of our chat, just before Covid-19
slammed shut most of Asia’s borders, my
friend Bryce could never have imagined that
just a few months later, young Thais would
take to the streets to express themselves
in ways never seen before. In their tens
of thousands, people flooded Bangkok’s
streets demanding the resignation of the
military government, and openly criticised
the monarchy, their creative flair on full
display as they commandeered inflatable
rubber ducks to use as shields against tear
gas assaults by the police. The imagery was
so eye-catching, so surreal, it was a form of
protest art that guaranteed coverage for their
cause across the globe.
DESIGN DISTRICT
Leaving Bryce, I set off to explore the
riverside Bang Rak neighbourhood, lately
being unofficially hailed as Bangkok’s first
Creative District, making inroads along
Charoen Krung, one of the city’s main
thoroughfares, long known for its jewellery
stores and dusty antique shops.
March 2021 121
BANGKOK

122 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

Look out for //
Bangkok is home to
an eclectic collection
of 19th-century,
European-style
buildings, the result
of King Rama V’s
extensive travels in
the West. One of the
best examples is Hua
Lamphong Station,
said to be modelled
on Frankfurt’s
Hauptbahnhof
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Century
eggs on sale in Bang Rak; shoppers
outside Warehouse 30; a curator at
arranges an exhibit at Museum Siam,
one the venues that hosts the annual
Bangkok Edge Festival
BANGKOK
Until recently it wasn’t somewhere
that anyone other than money-to-burn
baby boomers might want to hang around
but lately, contemporary galleries, hip
restaurants, late-night bars and boutique
hotels have been shooting up like bamboo.
Places such as 100 Mahesh, which gives
nose-to-tail dining a northern Thai spin
in a woody, welcoming setting; ‘quiet bar’
Shuu Shuu, where the only drink served is
Japanese plum wine and voices must be kept
low; and the Prince Theatre Heritage Stay,
which has fluffed an old dirty movie theatre Q&A with Mook
from the 1970s into a stylish collection
of dorms, suites and screening rooms.
Attakanwong,
What they all have in common (besides artist and owner
their Instagram cred) is that they’re all of ATT 19 gallery
independently funded, growing from the
ground up, and setting trends across the city. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING
Branching off from Charoen Krung Road, TO DO IN THE CITY?
there’s a mosaic of different cultures, with On the weekend, my parents
Thai-Chinese, Thai-Muslim and northern and I love to drive around and
Thai neighbourhoods brushing up against search for places to eat serving
each other in a network of ramshackle sois traditional dishes that are hard
to find now. We also visit places
(alleys), where the tentacles of gentrification
they used to hang out in when
are beginning to reach. I turn left down Soi
they were young, which allows
36 towards the beautifully decaying ruins of me to feel a connection to the
the Old Customs House, which overlooks the city and inspires my work.
Chao Phraya River. Built in the neo-palladian
style in the late 19th century, its romantic WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO OPEN
facade and watery backdrop have been the A GALLERY?
muse for many magazine and movie shoots, This is my family’s fourth gallery.
We want to preserve our history
most notably making an appearance in the
and traditional crafts, but we
Wong Kar-wai classic In the Mood for Love.
also want to give people a place
Over the years there’s been chatter about where they can view art in a
it being converted into a boutique hotel (a more accessible way.
plan which may fi nally be coming to fruition
in 2025, with Thai developer U City), but WHERE DO THE CITY’S CREATIVES
today it’s open to the public for the fi rst LIKE TO HANG OUT AT NIGHT?
time in decades as one of the locations for We really like Soi Nana in the old
town, an alley where bars such as
the 2020 edition of Bangkok Design Week.
Asia Today and Tep Bar focus on
The landscape photography exhibition is
Thai food and drink. Going there
great, but it’s the building itself that makes feels like the full package: you
the strongest impression, all age-bevelled get a great drink, culture and an
floors, gap-toothed shutters and graceful interesting crowd.
wooden staircases, light fi ltering magically instagram.com/att19.bkk
through the arched serliana [Venetian]
windows. Outside in the bright sunlight,
March 2021 123
BANGKOK
more colourful flags advertising Design
Week flutter from fence posts. I follow them,
doubling back out along Soi 36 and left into
the Haroon Mosque community. A tiny
pocket of Muslim life in a city where 95%
of the population is Buddhist, its tangle of
streets is lined with little teak houses with
food stalls propped up against the back
walls. Stalls, manned by women in colourful
hijabs, sell some of the tastiest snacks in
the Bangkok — roti with cheese and eggs,
chicken mataba (flaky pastry pies) and sweet
bread with strawberry jam all for £1 or less.
A smattering of hip indie coffeeshops has
popped up since my last visit, but I’ve always
found these little roti stalls reason alone to
linger — it’s impossible to pass by without
wolfing at least one glistening disc of bread.
Dodging sunbathing cats and fluttering
laundry, I emerge at the other side of the
neighbourhood on Soi 34 with the vast
utilitarian Bangkok General Post Office
ahead. The red-brick behemoth, with grand
garuda statues taking flight from each
corner, was transformed into the Thailand
124 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Creative and Design Centre in 2017. My
last visit here saw a giant marquee pitched
outside, site of a nine-night exhibition that
looked at ways of making environmentally
vulnerable cities such as Bangkok more
resilient and sustainable.
But, for the rest of the year, TCDC, as it’s
better known, is a hipster haven, a place
where Bangkok’s creative community
can connect in co-working spaces, stock
concept stores with their own designs and
collaborate in sound studios.
My last stop, on nearby Charoen Krung Soi
30, is at Warehouse 30, a row of Second World
War-era depots that have been repurposed
into funky florists, vinyl music stores, book
shops, juice bars, cocktail venues, bakeries
and independent fashion outlets. Sitting on
a bench outside, watching young urbanites
following street graffiti QR codes to Design
Week hideaways, as long-tail boats, tugs and
rice barges crisscrossed the river, it’s hard to
fathom why this alluring part of the city has
lain neglected for so long. But it’s exciting to
think of what might still be to come.
INSIDER TIPS
While Bangkok’s taxis are some
of the world’s cheapest, they can
also be a notorious rip-off for
tourists. Download the Grab app
instead; cabs are cleaner, drivers
are generally friendlier (and
more likely to speak English)
and the prices will be fixed on a
meter. grab.com
It’s against the law to criticise the
monarchy in Thailand. Penalties
can include up to 15 years in
prison and have been imposed
on foreigners in the past.
There’s no need to ask for
chopsticks here. In Thailand, a
fork is used to push food onto
a spoon, which is then put in
the mouth. Sticky rice dishes,
however, are eaten with the
fingers on your right hand.

14 hours in
BANGKOK
8AM
VISIT THE FLOWER MARKET
Wake up and literally smell the roses at one
of Bangkok’s oldest and largest markets
— Pak Khlong Talat. The market is located
close to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho temple,
and vendors peddle blooms by the bucketload,
such as lotuses, lilies, chrysanthemums,
gerberas, roses and rare Thai tulips. Also on
sale are beautiful Buddhist offerings called
wai phra, set on gold-leaf plinths with a candle
and three incense sticks at their centre.
Jakkrapet Road, Bangkok 10200
9AM
BREAKFAST & MORE BLOOMS
Stick with the floral theme for breakfast, in
the fairytale surroundings of the Floral Cafe
at Napasorn, hidden deep inside the flower
market. Set above a florist’s shop, this cafe
looks like a Thai version of Wonderland, with
every inch of wall space covered with exotic
blooms, hanging ferns, crystal chandeliers,
FROM LEFT: Pad thai with
etched mirrors, porcelain vases, and art
shrimp at The Never
Ending Summer; Horse
works (nearly all of which is for sale). The
Unit at Warehouse 30, coffee is strong, and the baked goods are
Bang Rak; Pak Khlong home-made (try the rose chocolate cake).
Talat (Flower Market) 67 Chakkraphet Road
BANGKOK
11AM
TAKE A LONG-TAIL BOAT TOUR
There’s no better way to get a sense of old
Bangkok than on a long-tail boat tour of the
Thonburi klongs (canals), site of the original
Siamese capital before 18th-century King
Rama I moved it to the other side of the Chao
Phraya River. As you glide through winding
waterways, look out for fields of edible water
spinach, monitor lizards swimming between
stilted houses, weathered grandmas hanging
laundry and the gold tops of temples peeking
above banyan trees. Many hotels can arrange
tours, or select a boat and haggle the fare.
1PM
LUNCH AT THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER
Ask your boat captain to drop you off on the
western Khlong San side of the river at the
end of your tour, so you can have lunch at The
Never Ending Summer. Set inside a former
warehouse, it’s got chic art gallery vibes, and
a prime waterfront location adjacent to the
oh-so-hip Jam Factory lifestyle complex.
The Thai menu features such lesser-known
delights as watermelon with fish flakes, and
grilled river prawns with neem plant. 41/5
Charoen Nakhon Road
March 2021 125
 BANGKOK

ESSENTIALS
Wat Pho B A N G K O K
Chetawan Traditional Medicine
and Massage School
Hua Lamphong
Pak Khlong Talat Railway Station
flower market

C ha
Rod Fai

ro e n
night market
6 miles

Krung Rd
Att 19 gallery
Warehouse 30 BANG RAK
Bangkok General Post Office
Old Customs House
TH ON BU RI Haroon Mosque

ver
Ri
500 yards THAILAND

ya
Bangkok

ra
h
Avani+ Riverside P
hotel ao
Ch

Getting there & around

British Airways and Thai Airways
operate non-stop flights between
Heathrow and Bangkok. ba.com
thaiairways.com
Average flight time: 12h.
BTS Skytrain, MRT Subway and
buses span the city, while tuk-tuks,
songthaews and khlong boats
abound. The most efficient
transport, outside rush hour, is cab.
Uber and Grab are cheaper than
metered cabs. transitbangkok.com
uber.com grab.com

When to go
Late November to February when
there’s little rain, lower humidity and
temperatures in the 20Cs.

A corner of Floral Cafe, a

3PM
FIVE-STAR MASSAGE
You’re now just a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride
away from arguably the best massage in
Thailand. Wat Pho and Chetawan Traditional
magical spot for tea and cake,
hidden behind Napasorn florist
in Bangkok’s Flower Market
7PM
DINNER AT CHARMGANG
This is one of Charoen Krung’s — and
Bangkok’s — hottest new restaurants, from
a team of friends who worked in David
Places mentioned
Bangkok Edge. bangkokedge.com
Chakrabongse Villas.
chakrabongsevillas.com
Museum Siam. museumsiam.org
Wonderfruit. wonderfruit.co
100 Mahaseth. 198/3 Mahaseth Rd
Shuu Shuu. 395 Song Wat Rd
Prince Theatre Heritage Stay.
princeheritage.com
TCDC. web.tcdc.or.th
Warehouse 30. warehouse30.com

Medicine and Massage School is where all Thompson’s multi-award-winning Nahm.

those five-star hotel therapists are trained
and offers the gold standard in medicinal
Thai-style massage. Massages are performed
on the floor in a communal room while
wearing loose pyjama-like top and trousers
(supplied), and cost just £8 for one hour.
watpomassage.com
5PM
ROOFTOP REFRESHER
Head back to the river for a public ferry ride
to Asiatique market, where you can pick up
free passage on the guest boat to the Avani+
More info
Small in size but big on style, interiors clash
Thailand Tourism.
ruby red walls with a gold-leaf ceiling, neon
thailandtourism.org
signs and wooden benches. Dishes include A Chao Phraya River area guide:
the likes of Narathiwat beef curry with bangkokriver.com
banana or grilled tiger prawns with tangerine Very Bangkok by Philip Cornwel-
relish. 14 Soi Nakhon Kasem 5; facebook.com/ Smith (River Books, RRP £20)
charmgangcurryshop
Where to stay
10PM Mandarin Oriental has doubles from
£384 per night. mandarioriental.com
RUMMAGE AROUND ROD FAI MARKET
Hotel Once has doubles from £75
This out-of-town night market in the
per night. hotelonce.com
Ratchada district is where the city’s
fashionable set shop. With a focus on all How to do it
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

Riverside hotel for sunset. Up on the 27th
floor, SEEN is a rooftop bar set over two
storeys with sky gardens, shimmering pools
and panoramic views of south Bangkok and
the Chao Phraya River. Order a Mr Mule, a
cocktail made with lemongrass vodka, kaffir
lime, caramalised galangal and ginger beer.
seenrooftopbangkok.com
things retro, it’s got hundreds of brightly lit
stalls touting everything from second-hand
trainers to tie-dye kaftans, Vietnam War-
era military wear to Jackie O sunglasses.
Wander to the far end of the market and
you’ll also find shops selling grandfather
clocks, motorbikes and cars. Srinakarin Soi
51, behind Seacon Square Shopping Mall
SELECTIVE ASIA has an 11-night
Simply Thailand tour, including three
nights in Bangkok from £2,399, B&B,
including international and local
flights, transfers and some tours.
selectiveasia.com

126 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 CIT Y LIFE

GRANADA
ZZ
Z

The grand, medieval Alhambra palace sets the tone in a historic city awash
with traditions. But while one foot is in the past, the other is tapping out a
modern beat: scratch the surface to discover hidden trails, markets and a
youthful music scene. WORDS: Stephen Phelan PHOTOGRAPHS: Ben Roberts

R
eturning to the Alhambra is like
rereading a book. The hilltop citadel
built by the Nasrid sultans above
Granada was a masterpiece of medieval
engineering, but also of literature — poetry
and philosophy expressed in dream-
like architecture. Verses, blessings and
ruminations were etched into its facades so
the structure would seem to speak. In Arabic,
of course, which I don’t understand at all.
On each of my three visits, spaced out over
20 years, I’ve heard guides translate various
inscriptions from across the courtyards. ‘The
perpetual bliss, the continual ecstasy…’ runs
one long strand around the reflecting pool of
the Comares Palace.
‘Be sparing with your words, and you’ll go in
peace’ warns the inner wall above the Sultan’s
throne, set beneath a domed roof composed
of more than 8,000 separate pieces inlaid with
a wooden constellation of stars, representing
all seven heavens of Islamic cosmology.
Today’s guide, Eduardo, says he’s never bored
in his job because the Alhambra is so arcane
and intricate that it reveals something new
every time, while also remaining partly and
eternally hidden.
Study it closely, read it as many times as
you like, but the mystery remains. This is the
real pleasure of the Alhambra. The Moors
surrendered their rule of Spain more than half
a millennium ago, but their legacy peeks out
between Renaissance and modern buildings.
Which isn’t to say Granada is mired in the
Middle Ages — it’s a university town, forever
replenished by students. Set its long tradition
of flamenco singing and dancing against
its current status as a European hub for the
reigning hip-hop subgenre of trap music,
or its ultra-traditional tapas bars against its
contemporary fusion restaurants.
Drive half an hour outside the city limits,
though, and you’re in a much more distant
past, where the shapes and angles of Arabic
geometry give way to a prehistoric landscape
of fossil-rich clay hills. This is the ‘other
Alhambra’, claim promoters of the scrolling
geopark around Granada, newly designated by
UNESCO as a heritage site.
Early Moorish settlers dug subterranean
dwellings in that terrain, later occupied by
peasants who couldn’t afford to build or buy
homes, and recently repurposed by operators
like Cuevas Almagruz, a family-owned cavern
network housing an underground museum
and a row of rustic-chic accommodations
carved into soft red rock.
Hosted in one of these chambers, I find it
deeply, strangely restful to become a figure in
a folk tale for a night — to sleep and dream in
the belly of a mountain, then wake and rise
from the mouth of a cave.

128 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
March 2021 129
GRANADA

“The truth is that I’m beginning to wonder if there is any

greater pleasure in life than visiting Granada.”
// Alexandre Dumas

SEE & DO LIVE FLAMENCO: Flamenco was also born here

WANDER THE ALBAICÍN: The medieval
Muslim quarter survives as a sideways maze
of whitewashed houses, spilling down the
hillside on zigzagging narrow lanes. There’s
an edge-of-the-world appeal to the cafes and
tapas bars that hang over its switchbacks
and stairways, and it’s still possible to feel
the passage of centuries through atavistic
portals like El Bañuelo — the dried-out,
bunker-like remains of an 11th-century
hammam bathhouse. Later Catholic
monarchs saw to the destruction of many
similar spas, equating them with sin, but
thankfully this one survived and lives on
as a small museum.
FERDINAND AND ISABELLA: The king and
queen who reconquered Spain, and sent
Christopher Columbus to the New World,
are buried together in the Royal Chapel,
which is part of the cathedral complex,
where a gloomy mood of gothic romance
prevails around their sculpted tombs.
capillarealgranada.com
TRAWLING FOR TAPAS: Spain’s small-plate
dining culture began here in Andalucia
and Granada’s hostelries can be absurdly
in Andalucia, about a millennium ago, and
has evolved into a semi-improvised art form
of percussive footwork, plaintive singing
and flurries of acoustic guitar. The question
of the most ‘authentic’ venue in Granada is
still the subject of furious debate among
local aficionados. Popular Sacromonte cave
bars like Cueva de la Rocío can amplify the
style’s explosive tempos, but the sounds
and colours also whirl in airier settings like
Jardines de Zoraya — a conjoined flamenco
stage and garden restaurant forming a world-
class tablao venue for dinner and a show.
cuevalarocio.es jardinesdezoraya.com
HUERTA DE SAN VICENTE: Born in Granada
and executed with one of the first shots fired
in the Spanish Civil War, the poet Federico
García Lorca is still mourned like a favourite
son around here. Guided tours of his family’s
summer house talk you through his life and
work, and the park outside — formerly an
orchard — is a fine place to read a few of his
lines. huertadesanvicente.com
TAKE A HIKE: The suburban village of
Monachil leads into the Sierra Nevada range
by way of an exhilarating trail through the CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Outdoor diners

generous in observing the local custom of
free tapas with every alcoholic drink. The
shortest glass of beer may come with a pork
loin sandwich the size of your face, and
hitting a few bars around Realejo or Plaza
Nueva will leave you as stuffed and stunned
as repeat trips to a wedding buffet.
Los Cahorros valley. Long, high, hanging
bridges sway dramatically underfoot, and
looming canyon walls lean so far over the
river that you can only pass by grabbing
metal handholds that have been hammered
into the rock. If you don’t like heights, maybe
give this a miss.
at Plaza Bib-Rambla; oranges in the
gardens of the Generalife, part of the
Alhambra complex; Irene Urbistondo
Molina outside Espartería San José
basket shop
PREVIOUS PAGE: Travellers watch the
sunset over the Alhambra from the
Mirador San Nicolás

130 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 GRANADA

March 2021 131

GRANADA

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Exterior of

Bodega Castañeda, which specialises
in the local cocktail calicasas; tapas and
a beer, Bodega Castañeda; the arches
of the Palacio del Partal, one of many
ornate sections of the Alhambra

132 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

BUY
ALCAICERÍA MARKET: Arabian spice
and silk merchants used to fill the alleys
between the cathedral and the Plaza Bib-
Rambla. The present street market on the
site of that Grand Bazaar still gives off a
certain old-world headiness by virtue of the
many stalls laden with saffron, fabrics, teas
and religious trinkets, as well as boutique
wines and olive oils. alcaiceria.com
FAJALAUZA: The distinctive blue-green
ceramics you see all around Granada, from
salad bowls to wall tiles, were mostly made
at this workshop, which originated in the
Alhambra as the city’s official 16th-century
pottery factory. Every piece is hand-painted
in the Moorish style, with geometric patterns
and heraldic motifs such as double-headed
eagles. fajalauza.com
ESPARTERÍA SAN JOSÉ: First opened in 1907,
this is now the last of Granada’s specialist
stores for the Andalucian craft of wrangling
beautiful wicker chairs and baskets out of
tough esparto grass and olive wood. You’ll
spot the shop easily: a jumble of woven and
carved creations line the pavement, framing
the entrance. facebook.com/esparteria.sanjose
“Granada is the perfect dream and fantasy, forever ineffable…
more malleable than philosophical, more lyric than dramatic.”
// Federico García Lorca
EAT
LA TRASTIENDA: No tapas bar as
good and revered as this could ever stay
a ‘secret’ exactly, but it keeps a pretty low
profile, tucked behind the counter of a
butcher shop. In 1836, the owner started
feeding cold cuts to hungry customers in
the queue, and today’s fare is still premium-
grade cured meats and smoked cheeses.
facebook.com/latrastiendatapas
RESTAURANTE CALA: A little outside
the old town’s culinary comfort zone of
ham, lamb and razor clams, this is where
the tapas-weary go for variety — a bright,
modern dining room where French-born
chef Samuel Hernández makes a broadly
Mediterranean menu more cosmopolitan by
way of tiger milk, aguachile verde and hoisin
sauce. restaurantecalagranada.es
LAS TOMASAS: Traditional carmen
houses scatter the Albaicín, garden
vineyards and orchards growing over their
high white walls. Topmost among them is
this restaurant, which offers a triumphant
view of the Alhambra. The food here is built
on regional and national staples from baby
squid to bull’s tail. lastomasas.com
GRANADA
AFTER HOURS
BODEGAS CASTAÑEDA: This relic of the
Civil War era is stacked with load-bearing
bottles and barrels full of decent local
wines and sherries, but the house special is
calicasas — a homemade doozy concocted
from vermouth, gin, rum, soda and spices.
facebook.com/bodegascastaneda
BOOGACLUB: The city’s genre-blurring
club culture is further melted down at this
small and beloved dance venue. Hosting
regular jazz, reggae and flamenco sessions,
Booga also played a key role in breaking
the hip-hop splinter groups who went on to
make trap music the crisp, bouncy, auto-
tuned sound of the Spanish underground.
boogaclub.com
TRAGOFINO-SANMATÍAS 30: This relatively
young and cool alternative to Granada’s
antique taverns also stands out for its
superior take on the pomegranate cocktails
served all over town — here it’s made with
fresh pulp and Pama liqueur before being
served in a jam jar. The music leans towards
R&B and soul and gets increasingly loud as
the evening progresses and the atmosphere
hots up. facebook.com/tragofinosanmatias30
March 2021 133
GRANADA
LIKE A LOCAL
VANTAGE POINT: You don’t have
to share the view with crowds gathered
at popular lookouts like Mirador San
Nicolás. Back up that hillside a little to the
abandoned Islamic graveyard for a quiet,
near-private sunset vista of the Albaicín,
Alhambra and snow-capped Sierra Nevada.
STREET MUSIC: Granada’s music scene is fed
by students and immigrants from across
Europe, North Africa and Latin America.
You’ll hear plenty just walking around
— cellists from the Royal Conservatory
practicing in a plaza or Balkan accordion
ballads bleeding into French rap battles at
jam sessions outside Huerto de Carlos.
MUDÉJAR ARCHITECTURE: Some of the city’s
oldest, most beautiful buildings are a hybrid
of Islamic and Catholic styles — converted
from former mosques designed by Arab
artisans after the Christian reconquest. The
ghost of a minaret still rises up the bell tower
of the Church of San Gil and Santa Ana, while
the University of Granada bears elegant
traces of a vanished Koranic study hall
within the Madraza Palace.
134 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
A busker on
Plaza Bib-Rambla, in
the historic Albaicín
neighbourhood
Z SLEEP
ZZ
CASA DE REYES: Also known as
Hostal Lima, this comfortable, classic
guesthouse replicates the Spanish Golden
Age with lovingly overdecorated common
areas. Flamboyant candelabra, throne-like
dining chairs, eye-popping chivalric art and
armour — it’s like a private museum run by
Don Quixote in his retirement. From £30.
hostalcasadereyes.com
VILLA ONIRIA: Fashionable boutique
accommodation in a modernised 19th-
century manor doesn’t get any better than
this. The inner courtyard, fountain and
galleried floors suggest the original house
was modelled on a much older, Arabian-style
layout. From £70. villaoniria.com
HOSPES PALACIO DE LOS PATOS: Another
well-preserved aristocratic landmark,
formerly the Dutch consulate, fused to a
newer annex across a garden terrace that
really ties the place together. Popular with
locals for lunch amid fountains, birds and
a fabulous pomegranate tree, it takes on a
clubbier spirit after dark. From £130.
hospes.com/palacio-patos
ESSENTIALS
Boogaclub Jardines Cueva de
de Zoraya la Rocío
Las Tomasas
ALBAICÍN
Bodegas Alhambra
Castañeda Palace
Cathedral
La Trastienda
Alcaicería market
TragoFino
G R A N A D A
REALEJ O
Huerta de Santa Ana Church
San Vicente
S PA I N
Granada
500 yards
Getting there & around
British Airways subsidiary BA
CityFlyer operates direct
high-season flights (April to
September) from London City twice
a week. EasyJet also offers direct
services from Gatwick and
Manchester. ba.com easyjet.com
Average flying time: 2h30m
Granada’s historic core can easily be
explored on foot, though be
prepared to climb. Reserve tickets
for the Alhambra far in advance an
hire a knowledgeable tour guide
from a reputable agent such as Walk
In Granada. A mountain guide is also
a definite plus for a hike into the Los
Cahorros valley. You’ll need to rent a
car or take a taxi to reach the cave
dwellings at Cuevas Almagruz,
about 30 minutes outside of town.
entradas-alhambradegranada.org
walkingranada.com nevadensis.com
cuevasalmagruz.com
When to go
Spring and autumn are the best
times to visit. Midsummer can be
oppressively hot at 35C, while
winters tend to be cold and rainy.
More info
Granada Tourism. turgranada.es
Granada & Sierra Nevada by
Andy Symington. RRP: £8.99.
A Season in Granada by Federico
García Lorca. RRP: £9.95.
How to do it
NEWMARKET offers a six-night tour
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
— Seville, Granada & Classic Spain
— for £619 per person, taking in the
Alhambra and other Andalucian
highlights with an optional excursion
to Ronda. Includes flights.
newmarketholidays.co.uk

TAKE A WALK IN
COLOGNE
From the heart of Cologne’s Old Town, the cultural city’s
historical and modern charms are at your feet
For an ideal base from which to discover
Cologne, look no further than Prevôt
Restaurant & Hotel, which blends a French
atmosphere with German craftmanship.
The city’s only boutique hotel on the Rhine
offers stunning views, modern amenities
and seasonal fine dining with twists on local
specialities. What’s more, a host of can’t-miss
experiences are just a leisurely stroll away.
DISTANCE: 1 MINUTE
Cologne’s Old Town
While away an afternoon exploring the
cafes and stores of the city’s Old Town,
which dates back to the Middle Ages. Its
cobbled alleys, lively, traditional breweries
and numerous monuments and museums
act as a veritable time warp to the area’s
rich and storied history. Don’t forget to pick
up the city’s most famous souvenir: a bottle
of eau de cologne perfume.
IMAGES: PREVOT RESTAURANT AND HOTEL
DISTANCE: 5 MINUTES
Cologne Cathedral
A feat of gothic architecture, the world’s
tallest twin-spired church and a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, Cologne Cathedral
presides over the city’s rooftops. It’s home
to relics and works of art, including the
golden Shrine of the Three Kings, making it
a drawcard for pilgrims and travellers alike.
Take the 533 steps up the South Tower for
one of Cologne’s most impressive views.
PARTNER CONTENT FOR PREVÔT RESTAURANT & HOTEL
FROM LEFT: Hohenzollern
Bridge, straddling the Rhine;
Prevôt Restaurant & Hotel
DISTANCE: 6 MINUTES
Ludwig Museum
The Ludwig Museum showcases Cologne’s
20th-century and contemporary history,
with works by the likes of Andy Warhol and
Salvador Dalí. Come for the art but stay for
the music: the popular museum is also home
to the Cologne Philharmony, which hosts
around 400 concerts annually.
DISTANCE: 8 MINUTES
Hänneschen-Theater
Don’t expect to see Cologne’s thespians
treading the boards at the Hänneschen-
Theater. Players of a different sort occupy Essentials
the limelight in this traditional theatre,
dedicated to the art of puppetry. Suspend
Opened in 2019, Prevôt is a short
your disbelief as a host of fun characters walk from Cologne Central Station,
re-enact life in Cologne on a small scale, itself a 20-minute metro ride from
with various performances catering for both the airport. It offers a restaurant with
adults and children. a riverside terrace and 12 spacious
rooms, including Junior Suites,
Panorama Deluxe and Panorama
DISTANCE: 15 MINUTES
Superior rooms and a Penthouse
Km 689 Cologne Beach Club Suite. Close to various attractions
Cologne may be over 100 miles from the and trade fairs, it’s ideal for both
North Sea, but parts of the city still offer business travellers and tourists.
a ‘seaside’ experience. A ramble along
the Rhine brings you to Km 689 Cologne
Beach Club, where sandy beaches, ice-cold
cocktails, private daybeds and loungers and
even the requisite palm tree or two invite
visitors to put up their feet and admire
Cologne’s beautiful skyline.
For more information, visit prevot-hotel.com/en
PARTNER CONTENT FOR KANSAI TOURISM BUREAU
 PARTNER CONTENT FOR KANSAI TOURISM BUREAU

A SLOW, SPIRITUAL JOURNEY THROUGH

KANSAI
With its cascading waterfalls, primordial forests, ancient shrines,
mountaintop temples and a seemingly indestructible castle, the
Kansai region is the geographic and spiritual heart of Japan.
Words & photographs: Ben Weller

For thousands of years, the forces of
religion, trade and war have pulsed
through Kansai, a region that extends from
Hyogo, bordering the Seto Inland Sea,
to Wakayama, which stretches southward
along the Kii Peninsula. These have helped
to fuel the syncretism, dynamism and
resilience so characteristic of this country.
During the Heian period (794-1185)
while court culture flourished, apocalyptic
visions haunted the Japanese psyche,
and there was a belief that the end of the
world was approaching. The population
sought purity, redemption and rebirth, and
pilgrims set out for Kumano Sanzan, three
of the nation’s most sacred shrines. Today,
people still follow the same paths, and this
trail network is now called Kumano Kodo.
Routes cross lofty mountains, skirt rocky
coasts and wind through Wakayama, Nara
and Mie prefectures, connecting some of
the most significant sites in the Japanese
Buddhist and Shinto traditions. From the
high mountain temple complex of Koyasan
and the untouched forests of Nachi to the
rivers and forest shrines of Totsukawa,
the Kii Peninsula is a sacred place that often
feels far removed from modern life.
To the west, meanwhile, along the coast
of the Seto Inland Sea, plentiful agriculture
and innovative industry powered the
rise of the Tokugawa shogunate during
the Edo period (1603-1868). Castles built
hundreds of years ago remain standing, and
time-tested methods of salt-, soy sauce- and
sword-making are preserved and revered.
PARTNER CONTENT FOR KANSAI TOURISM BUREAU

SPIRITUAL AWAKENING
UENO KATSUMI
Over thousands of years, as
pilgrims converged in Kumano,
in Wakayama, a blending of
spiritual and cultural traditions
took place. This contributed
to the development of the
indigenous Shinto faith, as well
as the Buddhist tradition.
This wildly beautiful area
played a vital role in the
formation of Shugendo, a
mountain religion that blends
ancient animistic practices with
Shinto and esoteric Buddhism.
Although the religion was
outlawed during the Meiji
period (1868-1912), adherents of
Shugendo found sanctuary in
the mountains of Kumano.
Ueno Katsumi is a Shugendo
practitioner — known as a
yamabushi (one who prays
on the mountain) — as well
as a trekking and kayaking
guide. He moved to Kumano
15 years ago, having become
immersed in the teachings of
Shingon Buddhism.
Previously, Ueno ran a
successful outdoor clothing
company. “I thought, ‘I have
such a nice life. I want to do
something for my ancestors to
show my gratitude,’” he says.
He began exploring the
mountains of Kumano,
chanting the mantras he was
learning in his deepening
spiritual practice. One day, as
he was praying in solitude at
a waterfall, he met a hiker.
“He asked me to join his
hiking group,” Ueno recalls.
“When I showed up, they
were all wearing white,”
the distinctive garb of
the yamabushi.
Now a Shugendo practitioner
himself, Ueno ventures into
the mountains several times
a year, practising walking
meditation and praying at
sacred ‘power spots’, including
giant boulders, waterfalls and
thousand-year-old trees.
Like so many seekers before
him, Ueno found his place
in Kumano. “Straightaway,
people will feel how warm and
welcoming the community is
here,” he says. “The people of
Kumano have been welcoming
pilgrims for over 1,000 years.”
PARTNER CONTENT FOR KANSAI TOURISM BUREAU

Wakayama’s sacred sites

Wakayama prefecture is home to
some of Japan’s oldest and most
sacred sites, including Koyasan
(pictured top left), the birthplace of
Japanese esoteric Buddhism and the
three shrines of Kumano Sanzan. The
area also has countless ancient onsen,
such as Yunomine Onsen in Tanabe
(following page). In fact, the nearby
seaside town of Shirahama is one of
the oldest hot spring areas in the
country, dating all the way back
to the 7th century. Wakayama feels
both rugged and remote, worlds away
from modern Japan, yet there are
luxurious dining and accommodation
options aplenty here, such as the
beautiful ryokan, Kumano-bettei
Nakanoshima (bottom right),
accessible only by ferry.
PARTNER CONTENT FOR KANSAI TOURISM BUREAU

Steamy scenes in Nara

Totsukawa, located deep in the
mountains of Nara prefecture, was
once the home of samurai. With its
rough trails and deep swimming
holes, this is a tough, wild place,
attracting young urbanites with a
spirit of adventure. At Kamiyu Onsen
(pictured), visitors can alternate
between long soaks in the outdoor
hot springs and quick dips in the
cold mountain stream. There are also
bento-making workshops, with wild
boar, hunted by locals, featuring on
many of the menus.
 PARTNER CONTENT FOR KANSAI TOURISM BUREAU

24 HOURS IN
HIMEJI
Morning
Himeji’s gem is its towering
white castle, which has
stood guard over Kansai
High culture in Hyogo for more than 400 years.
Hyogo prefecture has long been Seemingly indestructible,
an important trading hub, and the Himeji Castle has, unlike
industries that were developed many other historical sites
here over the centuries — from in Japan, withstood or
fighting to food — went on to deeply been spared the ravages of
influence Japanese life. Soy sauce fire, storms, earthquakes
production, sea salt harvesting, and
and wars. The grounds
swordsmithing are just a few of the
are a joy to walk through
ancient traditions kept alive in Hyogo
today. One of the prefecture’s most during cherry blossom
interesting cities is Himeji, situated season, and its main tower
on the banks of the Seto Inland Sea offers an expansive view
and guarding the western routes to of the area. Within the
Kyoto. Himeji plays a proud role in castle grounds, Koko-en
Japanese history, and although most is a traditional Japanese
famous for its hilltop castle (pictured
garden, featuring a
on the following page), a symbol of
waterfall, koi pond,
the city’s strategic importance, its
rich culinary culture, immaculate
bamboo groves, tea
gardens and quiet temples speak to ceremony house and other
its role as a conduit for forces beyond distinctive designs of Edo-
war and governance. era Japan.

Lunchtime
Lunch at the family-owned
Nadagiku Sake Brewery
is a real treat. Work up an
appetite — and a thirst
— with a tour, then sit
down to sample some
delicious regional fare,
including a signature
sukiyaki beef dish topped
with sugar and local soy
sauce. An assortment of
sake brews are available to
enjoy with your meal, or to
take home.

Afternoon
Ride the cable car up
Mount Shosha to visit
Engyo-ji, a temple complex
dating back more than
a millennium. It’s an
important stop on the
Saigoku Kannon pilgrimage
route, with the temple
grounds offering an ideal
setting for quiet meditation
and sutra-writing under the
tutelage of the monks who
live there. Engyo-ji is so
iconically Japanese that it
even featured in the 2003
film The Last Samurai.
PARTNER CONTENT FOR KANSAI TOURISM BUREAU

MEET A MONK
SHUNYU
KANEKO
Shunyu Kaneko is a monk
at Shoshazan Engyo-ji.
He came to the temple
20 years ago as a spiritual
refugee escaping the
chaos and complexity of
life in Tokyo. Shunyu had
questions about life and
existence — and it was
here he sought answers.

Why did you move

to Himeji?
I had started learning about
Buddhism when I lived
in Tokyo. Another monk
taught me many things, and
in my mind I understood
— but not in my body and
soul. I still had questions
and I needed answers.
Becoming a monk was
a way to find answers to
these questions.

What do you like

about living here?
Tokyo was busy; it was
noisy. Here, it’s the
opposite; it’s silent. We’re
surrounded by nature.
These are good conditions
in which to meditate.

What do you
hope visitors will
experience here?
I want visitors to feel the
calm, the freedom and the
relaxation. I also hope they
can find answers here — or
at least ask the questions.
 PARTNER CONTENT FOR KANSAI TOURISM BUREAU
See the art of saltmaking
The city of Ako has long been known
for its salt production, and the Ako
Marine Science Museum offers a
hands-on exploration of various
methods of salt-making, as well as an
overview of the science behind it. You
can also purchase a range of sea salts
to take home.
To find out more, visit kansaiguide.jp/exciting
Become a swordsmith
Forge a samurai sword with
Kikyo Hayamitsu, a master tosho
(swordsmith) who says that while he’s
not a lover of weapons, his passion
lies in the art of making them. At
Kikyo’s workshop, learn about the
craft and history of sword-making
before trying your hand at forging a
small samurai knife yourself.
Essentials
Getting there and around: British
Airways and Japan Airlines operate
flights between Heathrow and
Osaka’s Kansai International Airport.
From Osaka, you can travel west
via the Shinkansen (bullet train)
to Himeji. To head into Koyasan,
take the Nankai Express, while for
Southern Wakayama, choose JR
Limited Express. Continue your
journey through the Kii Peninsula
via local trains, buses, taxis or rental
car. At various points along Parts of
the Kumano Kodo can be done by
bus, helping you cover more ground.
When to go: Spring for the cherry
blossom, or autumn for mountain
foliage. In winter, you can see the
temples of Koyasan covered in snow,
while in summer, you’ll experience
mild temperatures perfect for hiking
and bathing.
PARTNER CONTENT FOR KANSAI TOURISM BUREAU

KANSAI
THE STORY OF SAKE
Japan’s ancient and fertile heartland has some of the oldest
breweries in the country, and all offer something different
to travellers looking to experience the world of sake.
Words and photographs: Ben Weller

Kansai is Japan’s cultural
and spiritual heartland, a
region of craggy peaks, wild
forests and rolling pastures.
With its clear streams, fertile
soil and temperate climate,
it’s also renowned across the
country for its produce, and
is a region ideally suited for
creating nihonshu (sake).
In fact, Kansai produces
the most sake in Japan, and
brewing began at temples
and shrines across the
region more than 2,000
years ago. At first, sake was
gifted only to the gods, but
as time went on it became
synonymous with Japanese
culture. Today, sake retains
a central role in society.
It’s served at weddings,
consumed merrily at
festivals, and paired with
kaiseki (traditional, multi-
course meals). Visitors can
also sip sake at the breweries
themselves, known as
sakagura, often with the
toji (master brewer) at
their side. There are three
key elements to producing
excellent sake: the finest
rice, the purest water, and
a wise, knowledgeable toji,
and Kansai has all three
in abundance. Farmers
carefully cultivate varieties
of gold-standard shuzo
kotekimai (brewing rice)
with water from mountain
streams, before sending it
on to the toji, all of whom
adhere to strict brewing
standards and traditions.
At Takeno Brewery in
Kyotango, a rural area
in northern Kyoto, toji
Yukimachi Yoshiki is
on a quest for an elusive,
singular sake, a flavour
he’s yet to taste — and he’s
tasted many. An artisan
with a mad scientist streak
(he holds a degree from the
Department of Brewing
and Fermentation at Tokyo
University of Agriculture),
Yukimachi spends countless
hours in the brewery —
even sleeping there during
brewing season. He spends
his time filtering sake to
isolate flavour compounds:
“Making nihonshu is a
science,” Yukimachi says.
“While researching one
area, I’ll find a branching
area of enquiry: time, light,
the rice-polishing rate.
These branches are where
discoveries are made.”
Centuries of innovation
have contributed to a
growing global appreciation
for this sophisticated
drink. Visitors to Kansai
can experience the magic “Visitors to Kansai
of nihonshu at the oldest can sip on sake and
sakagura in Japan There experience the magic
are countless varieties to
try, each with their own
of nihonshu at some
character, and all revealing of the oldest sakagura
something new about Kansai. in Japan”

THREE TO TRY
KANSAI’S MOST MAGICAL SAKAGURA
Fukuju Brewery
Nada District, Kobe,
Hyogo prefecture
Among the oldest of
Nada’s famed breweries
is Fukuju, a brand that’s
growing in stature and
reputation across the
globe. Visitors can tour
the brewery, learning
about the art of sake
making and witnessing
ancient traditional brewing
practices done on an
industrial scale. After the
tour, make sure to spend
an hour or so sampling the
sake, before buying a bottle
or three to take home. Make
sure to book in advance, as
tours sell out quickly.
enjoyfukuju.com/en
Takeno Brewery
Kyotango, Kyoto
prefecture
Housing a brewery for
130 years, the traditional
Takeno facility blends
seamlessly into the
surroundings rice fields
and Meiji-period houses.
Attached to the brewery,
however, is a modern
addition: Bar 362+3, a single
room with a sleek bar where
Yukimachi Yoshiki pours his
delicious brew. Listening to
jazzy Japanese hip-hop on
the turntable and sipping
sake, while Yukimachi
shares his passion for, well,
everything, is a special way
to spend an afternoon.
yasakaturu.co.jp/en
PARTNER CONTENT FOR KANSAI TOURISM BUREAU
FROM LEFT: Takeno Brewery,
Kyōtango, Kyoto; sake paired
with traditional Japanese cuisine;
Yukimachi Yoshiki pouring sake;
Traditional tokkuri (carafe) used for
Kizakura Brewery serving sake
Fushimi District, Kyoto
Kyoto’s Fushimi district
is overflowing with Essentials
sakagura, and is also
home to the Gekkeikan
Okura Sake Museum. Spend Getting there: Fly into Kansai
International Airport, then make
a morning wandering
use of the country’s fast and
around the museum while reliable rail system to travel
learning about — and throughout the region. Buses,
tasting — sake. Afterwards, rental cars and even bikes are an
why not move on to the easy and efficient way to travel
around the 10 neighbourhoods of
Kizakura Kappa Country,
Shiga, Kyoto, Osaka, Hyogo, Nara,
a restaurant operated by Wakayama, Tottori, Tokushima,
the Kizakura Brewery, Fukui and Mie.
and try a sake sampler
with your lunch. Both
the food and the sake
are renowned across the
country for their excellence.
fushimi.or.jp/sake_guide
/tasting
To find out more, visit kansai.or.jp
T R AV E L G E E K S
ASK THE EXPERTS
NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP? ARE YOU AFTER RECOMMENDATIONS,
TIPS AND GUIDANCE? THE TRAVEL GEEKS HAVE THE ANSWERS…
Q // I’m a solo traveller The ’Stans are diverse on many
levels: politically, economically,
looking to explore the culturally and topographically.
’Stans, but am unsure For independent travellers,
whether to travel Uzbekistan is a good choice: its
capital city, Tashkent, has a metro
independently or network; the UNESCO-listed
with a tour operator. sites of Samarkand, Bukhara and
What advice do Khiva are accessible by high-speed
rail; and family-run guesthouses
you have? are common.
In Kazakhstan, the elegant city
of Almaty — the largest in the
country — is also easily explored
independently. Simply download
the Yandex.Taxi app and you’re
ready to go. That said, Kazakhstan
is the world’s ninth-largest
country by area, and its wild
and remote landscapes — even
the popular Altyn-Emel and
Charyn Canyon national parks
— are best reached using tour
operators such as Wild Frontiers
or Intrepid. wildfrontierstravel.com
intrepidtravel.com
146 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
FROM LEFT: Hiking
In mountainous Kyrgyzstan,
through Kyrgyzstan’s
meanwhile, travel beyond Bishkek
— such as trekking in high-
dramatic landscapes;
wine being poured at
altitude lakes or visiting upland Borgo Egnazia, Puglia
summer pastures ( jayloos) — is
simply more practical through an
operator like Untamed Borders.
The same applies in Tajikistan,
particularly if you want to tackle
the epic journey from Dushanbe
to Gorno-Badakhshan, which
requires a special permit, a
four-wheel-drive and a steely
backside. untamedborders.com
This leaves Turkmenistan,
something of an outlier in politics
and tourism. While the other
IMAGES: GETTY; BORGO EGNAZIO
’Stans require either no visa or
a straightforward electronic
visa, Turkmenistan demands
a ‘letter of invitation’ from a
tour operator, negating most
independent travel. Check out
Bradt Guides’ Central Asia titles
for more details. bradtguides.com
NICK REDMAYNE
Q // Where The UK offers an excellent array of
dive sites. Thousands of miles of
are the top coastline, a wealth of marine life
spots to scuba and a rich maritime history mean
dive in the there’s plenty to explore — and
as an added bonus, it makes for a
UK, and how great socially distanced activity
does the for adventurous travellers.
experience For new divers, the clear
Cornish waters at Falmouth
compare Bay and Porthkerris Cove make
to more for a great day out —if you’re
typical dive lucky, you may spot basking
sharks and dolphins. More
destinations
experienced divers, meanwhile,
abroad? will love Scapa Flow in the Orkney
Islands. One of the world’s most
famous wreck sites, its seabed
is the resting place of German
Q // I’m How about Puglia, in southern
Italy? As well as heating up to
looking for an beach-bathing temperatures
early summer by early summer, it has a string
mini-moon of hilltop villages to explore
inland and a distinctive food
within easy culture. What’s more, it’s served
reach of by regular flights from the UK.
the UK — are Along with its celebrated conical
there any trullo houses, Puglia is home to a
burgeoning number of luxuriously
destination reimagined masserie (farmhouses)
hotels you and plush resorts. Surrounded
by traditional drystone walls
would
and fragrant, Arabian-style
recommend? gardens, Borgo Egnazia, in
Savelletri di Fasano, comes with
four swimming pools (including
one that appears to melt into
the Adriatic), an expansive spa
and six restaurants specialising
in regional and Italian cuisine.
The La Egnazia Suite starts at
€1,499 (£1,330) and standard
doubles start at €289 (£260),
both B&B. borgoegnazia.com
battleships and cruisers dating
back to the First World War.
A key consideration when
planning any diving trip in the UK
is kit: the waters are cooler than
popular spots abroad, so proper
exposure suits (thick wetsuits
or drysuits) are needed. Your
experience will be enhanced
by receiving proper guidance
from a professional at first.
Many novices begin training at
the numerous inland sites around
the country, including lakes and
reservoirs. To find out about the
best diving opportunities near
you, connect with any of the
200 PADI dive centres across the
UK. padi.com RICH SOMERSET
Alternatively, Marrakech
is home to some of the most
luxurious five-star hotels within
short-break distance of the UK,
such as the newly restyled La
Mamounia. The opulent 1920s
palace, with its art deco pavilions
and richly perfumed gardens,
has been given a much-needed
revamp while retaining its
original, ornate charm. Spaces
have been thoroughly revitalised,
including the four restaurants
— two of which are now led by
chefs Pierre Hermé and Jean-
Georges Vongerichten.
A three-night-minimum-stay
Romantic Escape package costs
9,800 dirham (£810) per person,
based on two sharing a Deluxe Parc
garden-view room, B&B, including
cocktails, two dinners, one lunch,
a spa treatment and airport
transfers. Double rooms from
6,900 dirham (£570) per night.
mamounia.com SARAH BARRELL
Q // I’ve started using
a wheelchair. What
assistance is available
at UK airports and
how should I go about
organising it? Do you
have any resources
or tips?
For wheelchair-users, assistance
at UK airports is available free of
charge. Try to organise it through
your travel agent, tour operator
or airline at point of booking.
Otherwise, give at least 48 hours’
notice before travel. It’s important
to explain what type of help you’ll
require. For some, that might
be limited to assistance while
boarding and disembarking the
aircraft ; others might prefer to
use an airport wheelchair, be
pushed by a member of staff or
check in their own wheelchair
with their baggage. It’s important
to remember that, in the UK,
assistance is available both inside
and outside the terminal, so you
can request help getting to and
from a car park or station.
Although many places have
similar legislation to the UK, some
countries don’t offer this level
of assistance — it may come at a
cost or not be readily available.
However, many airlines can arrange
assistance, so it’s important to
check what’s available at your
destination. The Civil Aviation
Authority ensures airlines and
airports provide the kind of
assistance all passengers have the
right to expect. JAMES FREMANTLE
THE EXPERTS
NICK REDMAYNE //
FREELANCE TRAVEL WRITER
RICH SOMERSET //
TERRITORY DIRECTOR, PADI
EMEA, PADI.COM
SARAH BARRELL //
ASSOCIATE EDITOR,
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
TRAVELLER (UK)
JAMES FREMANTLE //
CIVIL AVIATION AUTHORITY,
CAA.COM
March 2021 147
TRAVEL GEEKS

THE INFO

LIFE AFTER BREXIT

RULES ON TRAVELLING BETWEEN THE UK AND EU COUNTRIES CHANGED
ON 1 JANUARY. WE ILLUSTRATE THE IMPACT ON EVERYTHING FROM
PASSPORTS TO TRAVEL INSURANCE. WORDS: SARAH BARRELL

HEALTH INSURANCE
Driver’s documents
Most UK drivers can continue to
90
The number of days UK
use their normal licence, unless
they only hold a paper licence or passport-holders can stay in
one issued in Gibraltar, Guernsey, the Schengen Area during
any 180-day period
Jersey or the Isle of Man. If
driving your own car, or one hired
how
in the UK, you’ll need additional
insurance and vehicle registration
documents. For more details, see: long can 90
The number of days UK
Current European Health
Insurance Cards (EHIC)
gov.uk/guidance/driving-in-the-eu
i stay? passport-holders can stay in
Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus and
are still valid. Once
expired, you can replace
Romania, on top of the 90-day it with the new GHIC.
Schengen allowance Travel insurance with
medical coverage is also
You may need a visa or permit to stay for longer, to work or study, or for business travel recommended

PET PASSPORTS ARE NO

LONGER VALID. DOGS,
CATS AND FERRETS NOW
NEED AN ANIMAL HEALTH
VALID PASSPORTS
Existing British
CERTIFICATE FROM A
VET, INCLUDING PROOF
OF MICROCHIPPING AND
£££
passports that are less VACCINATION HISTORY Roaming charges
may now apply;
than 10 years old and, contact your
crucially, have at least provider to check.
six months’ validity For now, the four

will be accepted for

EU travel
2022 UK passengers
travelling to EU
countries will
main UK mobile
phone operators
have no plans to
From next year, UK nationals now be able to reintroduce fees
will have to pay for an ETIAS DUT Y purchase duty-
visa waiver scheme to FREE free alcohol and
travel to Europe tobacco products

Travel to Ireland is exempt EU FAST-TRACK LANES FOR PASSPORT CONTROL ARE NO LONGER OPEN TO UK TRAVELLERS.
from the six-month passport ON ARRIVAL IN AN EU COUNTRY (OTHER THAN IRELAND), YOU MAY NEED TO SHOW A RETURN OR
validity rule ONWARD TICKET AND PROVE YOU HAVE ENOUGH MONEY FOR THE DURATION OF YOUR STAY

SOURCES: BBC.CO.UK, GOV.UK, GUARDIAN.CO.UK, EC.EUROPA.EU. FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT GOV.UK/VISIT-EUROPE-1-JANUARY-2021

148 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 TRAVEL GEEKS

HOT TOPIC I READ THE EXTENDED VERSION OF THIS ARTICLE ONLINE AT NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

CAN YOU PANDEMIC-PROOF INSURANCE?

PLANNING YOUR POST-LOCKDOWN ESCAPE? TRAVEL INSURANCE COMPANIES NOW OFFER POLICIES FOR
THOSE DETERMINED TO KEEP TRAVELLING DURING THE PANDEMIC. WORDS: SARAH BARRELL

In normal times — and by this

we mean before March 2020
— the UK government would
warn against ‘all but essential
travel’ only to destinations that
were obviously unsafe; those
beleaguered by civil unrest,
political conflicts or war. But
even outside lockdown, in these
strangest of times, this list has
come to include pretty much
the entire globe. An edict from
the government’s Foreign,
Commonwealth & Development
Office (FCDO) once seemed like
an all-powerful veto, but in fact,
outside lockdown you can visit a
country to which it advises against
travel. However, unless you get
specific insurance to travel, you
may invalidate your policy.

Read the small print

The initial lockdown saw most
insurers stop selling travel
insurance entirely. Since then,
many have returned to the
market — but the small print
in most conventional travel
insurance policies still rules out
cover for countries vetoed for
travel by the FCDO. A handful
of companies offer cover or
extensions to policies at an
extra cost. These have lately
included Battleface, Campbell
Irvine, Insurefor and Stay Sure.
Their offerings vary. Some will
cover you if FCDO advice changes
while you’re away, others if it
changes before you travel
— and for now, most only include
coverage for Europe. But beware
lockdown limitations: insurers
will not pay out if you need to
cancel due to a lockdown, either
locally or at your destination.
Be aware of closed borders
Post lockdown, the FCDO will start
to clear certain destinations as
‘safe’ for travel; however, it may
IMAGES: GETTY
if your destination restricts its
borders, although Nationwide
is currently doing so, offering
some of the broadest Covid-19
insurance coverage, according to
research carried out by Which?
recently. The consumer watchdog
lists 25 insurers now offering fairly
comprehensive post-lockdown
travel insurance. However, like
many, Nationwide’s coverage isn’t
available as a single-trip policy but
only as a conditional purchase
— in this case, for account holders
at the building society.
Find out how tour operators
are taking responsibility
Most package holiday providers,
notably those that are bonded
(members of ABTA or ABTOT, for
example), are legally responsible
for your safety and won’t take you
to somewhere to which the FCDO
advises against travel. And if FCDO
guidance changes while you’re
cancellation and rebooking
policies. However, always wait
until your operator cancels before
you do. Current government
advice during lockdown, for
example, obliges operators to
cancel trips. If it’s under a month
before departure and you still
haven’t heard anything, make
contact to confirm they’re
cancelling and that they’ll refund
you — or rebook if you prefer.
Check general exclusions
for Covid-19
Some companies will have ‘general
exclusion’ against Covid-19
claims, while others will pay for
medical expenses if you catch
the virus abroad but not for, say,
travel disruption or repatriation.
A growing number of insurers,
however, now cover general
Covid-19-related expenses,
from travel disruption due to
the pandemic to related medical
if you have to cancel because
you’ve tested positive, but not if
someone else in your household
has it or if you’re self-isolating
but aren’t actually infected. Until
airport or destination testing is
more prevalent, and vaccinations
widely available, it remains to be
seen what impact these will have
on policy requirements. And as
ever, check a policy’s excess.
Covid-19-era coverage is all very
well, but you have to be able to
afford the excess fee.
Make sure you’re covered
against airline failure
In these trying times, with many
airlines streamlining fleets, laying
off staff or filing for bankruptcy,
also check your policy includes
scheduled airline failure insurance
(SAFI) to protect you in the event
your carrier ceases operations.
FOR MORE INFO, VISIT:
gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice

still have closed borders to arrivals away, they’re legally responsible issues. But be sure to read the
from countries where Covid-19 for getting you home. If you’ve small print carefully — each For more on flight voucher validity,
infection rates are high. It’s less booked but are yet to travel, insurer has its own exclusions. refunds, rebookings and your rights, go
likely your insurer will cover you most operators now have flexible Many, for example, will cover you to nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

March 2021 149

TRAVEL GEEKS
KIT LIST
WINTER CYCLING
CHANGEABLE WEATHER CAN MAKE FOR
EXHILARATING BIKE RIDES — IF YOU HAVE
THE RIGHT KIT. STAY WARM, DRY AND VISIBLE
WHETHER YOU’RE HITTING RURAL TRAILS OR
CITY ROADS. WORDS: AMELIA DUGGAN
1 RAPHA PRO TEAM
WINTER JACKET
This stylish, insulating outer
layer is a great investment for
eliminating the chill that can
quickly curtail cold-weather
rides. From breathable and
insulating fabric choices to
reflective panelling, it’s been
engineered with the needs
of riders in mind. RRP: £180.
rapha.cc
2 BERN HUDSON MIPS
BIKE HELMET
Winter can serve up reduced
visibility and slippery
conditions. A state-of-the-
art, lightweight Bern helmet
not only offers a snug fit (it
comes in three adjustable
sizes), but also a detachable
USB-charged light with up
to 10 hours’ power. RRP: $119.99
(£89). bernhelmets.com
3 SEALSKINZ WATERPROOF
ALL-WEATHER GLOVE WITH
FUSION CONTROL
Come wind, rain, snow or
sleet, Sealskinz’s activewear
accessories are designed to
protect your extremities. These
comfortable and sturdy gloves
offer 100% windproofing and
waterproofing, plus excellent grip,
dexterity and breathability.
RRP: £65. sealskinz.com
Three more: warmth-boosting products
DARN TOUGH SOCKS
Warm, dry feet are essential
for an enjoyable wintry ride,
and specialist socks like the
moisture-wicking Prism Crew
Light Cushion are just the thing.
RRP: $21 (£15.50). darntough.com
150 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
2 RRP: £150. jack-wolfskin.co.uk
3 Heading off -trail? These durable
4 drying. Its design seals out debris
5 velocity situations. Designed for
6 to seven different positions.
ALBION BURNER
This ultra-light insulating bib is
ideal for kicking off a cold-
weather spin on the bike. Worn
under a jacket, it’s easily packed
away into a pocket-sized pouch.
RRP: £35. albioncycling.com
4 JACK WOLFSKIN ATLAS
TOUR JACKET
Part of the outdoor outfitter’s new
Bike Collection, this waterproof
shell comes in vibrant colours
and features tough, eco-friendly
materials. The jacket features
reflective strips so other road
users know to steer clear.
5 ADIDAS FIVE TEN TRAILCROSS
XT MOUNTAIN BIKE SHOES
kicks will stand riders in good
stead. A rubber outsole provides
high-friction grip for maximum
pedal power, while strategically
placed drainage ports allow
puddle water to exit for quicker
and offers a cushioned feel, too.
RRP: £130. adidas.co.uk
6 OAKLEY SUTRO
CYCLING GLASSES
A pair of bold ‘shield’ glasses helps
bikers cut through cold winds,
keeping visibility crisp and clear.
It features contrast-enhancing
lens technology and offers impact
protection, too — even in high-
biking, they’re lightweight and
will stay in place as you sweat.
RRP: £135. oakley.com
7
7 AQUAPAC DOCKSYSTEM
WATERPROOF PHONE CASE
Keep phones dry and safe
with this ‘use-thru’ case from
the waterproofing experts at
Aquapac. Attach it to the bike
with the DockSystem rail and
handlebar dock (RRP: £11.99);
once there, it can be rotated
RRP: from £29.99. aquapac.net
HYDRO FLASK
This easy-grip stainless steel flask
fits neatly into a bike bottle rack,
keeping hot chocolate warm for
up to 12 hours and water ice-cold
for up to 24 hours. RRP: £29.95.
hydroflask.com
 IN THE NEXT ISSUE

Greece

Stretching from the lakes and wine country of Macedonia down to the
olive groves and peninsulas of the Peloponnese, we explore the Greek
mainland. This is the country’s cultural heartland, home to wilderness
getaways and the vibrant cities of Athens and Thessaloniki

Plus // Antarctica, Devon, Dunedin, Honolulu, Loire Valley,

Peak District, Taipei, Tanzania, Quito, Venice & more

April issue
On sale 4 march 2021
IMAGE: ALAMY

For more information on our subscription offer,

see page 160

March 2021 151

 A bud blooms from a blue gum tree in the
aftermath of the flames, New South Wales

152 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
AFTER THE FIRES: REVISITING
AUSTRALIA’S SAPPHIRE COAST
AUSTRALIA’S DEVASTATING BUSHFIRES RAGED FOR MONTHS FROM MID-2019,
SCORCHING VAST SWATHES OF LAND AND KILLING OR DISPLACING BILLONS OF
ANIMALS. FACED WITH NO WATER, ELECTRICITY OR INTERNET, COMMUNITIES TURNED
TO EACH OTHER FOR HELP REBUILDING THEIR LIVES. A YEAR ON, THE SITUATION IS
DRAMATICALLY IMPROVED. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS: JUSTIN MENEGUZZI
“W
e’re basically
sitting on a
bomb,” says
Karen Touchie, nervously
laughing into her gin and tonic.
Behind us, in a wooden
shed Karen and her partner,
Gavin Hughes, have converted
into a boutique gin distillery,
thousands of litres of pure alcohol
are stored in a tank. The three
of us are seated on the verandah
at the North of Eden distillery,
in New South Wales’ lush Bega
Valley, sipping their award-winning
artisan gins while looking out over
freshly cut green grass. The scents
of oranges and lemons, which are
just coming into season, linger
in the air and Highland cows
low gently nearby. Karen and
Gavin’s three-legged border collie,
Jim, hobbles closer for a pat.
It’s hard to fathom that this
is the same spot where, on
30 December 2019, Karen and
Gavin watched as a fiery noose
closed in from the surrounding
mountains and tightened around
their hilltop farm, the alcohol
essential to their thriving gin
business now threatening to
burn it down. With routes north
and south blocked by fires,
and the road west to Canberra
— the closest city — closed by
authorities, the couple had few
options but to stay and fight.
Although Karen and Gavin’s
predicament may sound
extraordinary, it was anything but.
On my drive along the Sapphire
Coast, 300 miles south of Sydney,
I meet dozens of locals who
recount their own tales of that
day, vividly recalling when the
sun disappeared for 40 hours and
magpies fell from the sky, dead.
From August 2019 to February
2020, Australia experienced
the worst bushfire season in the
nation’s history, affecting large
sections of South Australia,
Victoria and New South Wales.
By the time quenching rains
arrived in late February, the
Black Summer fires had destroyed
more than 3,000 houses, killed
33 people and torched enough
terrain to cover Portugal more
than twice over.
While the frequency and
intensity of bushfires in Australia
have been increasing over the
past decade, aided by increasing
temperatures and prolonged
dry seasons caused by climate
change, the Black Summer fires
were unique in their severity.
In the lead-up to summer, the
country had weathered its
warmest and driest year on
record, resulting in a tinderbox
landscape waiting to ignite.
On the Sapphire Coast, the
match was a bolt of lightning.
The terrain caused the flames
to spread at terrifying speeds
and scorching winds belched
embers miles ahead of the fire
front, causing new blazes to
flare up at random. Smaller
fires joined up to create mega-
blazes. The resulting smoke
haze was so dense it tinted
New Zealand’s glaciers brown
and shrouded beaches in Brazil.
Filtered face masks were selling
out well before Covid-19 made
global headlines.
Residents found themselves
squeezed between bushfires
closing in from Mount Kosciuszko
to the south and Nowra to the
north. With firefighters stretched
to their limits, Karen and Gavin
were told they were on their
own as only public assets,
such as national parks, could
be defended.
“One of the most difficult
things was preparing and
then just waiting,” says Karen,
recalling how the couple spent an
exhausting 65 days continually
wetting down their property,
always with one eye on the
burning horizon. “The adrenalin
was just constantly building.
I don’t think you understand what
it’s like until you’ve been through
a bushfire yourself.”
The flames came within a
mile of their property before
they were finally extinguished.
While the distillery itself was
saved, the shops that stocked
their gin had burned down
and the roads were closed to
visitors and deliveries. The
new gin school they had built
the month before, fitted with
a dozen miniature copper stills
for guests to create their own
personalised gin, saw months
of cancelled bookings.
Late one night, while sitting
at the dinner table, Karen
made a last-minute decision
to join the #SpendWithThem
Instagram initiative. Launched
by Turia Pitt, an athlete-turned-
motivational speaker who
survived horrific burns after being
trapped by a grassfire in 2011, the
campaign encouraged Australians
to support small businesses in
bushfire-affected towns.
The resulting wave of
community support was like a
tsunami. The phone rang with
new orders every few minutes
and North of Eden’s Instagram
account saw its follower numbers
soar from 108 to 3,800.
At one point, PayPal froze the
couple’s account on suspicion of
money laundering.
“It basically funded the year
for us,” explains Gavin.
IN NUMBERS
18.6 MILLION
the number of hectares
burned during the fires
— more than twice the
area of Portugal.
4,000
the number of
hospitalisations linked to
the fires between October
2019 and February 2020,
with issues including
asthma and cardiovascular
problems. The smoke
was also responsible for
417 excess deaths during
this period.
3 BILLION
the number of koalas,
kangaroos, wombats
and other land
animals estimated to
have been killed or
displaced, according to
WWF Australia.
£11.3 BILLION
the estimated impact
of damage from the
bushfires on the
Australian economy,
eclipsing the record
£2.5 billion set by
2009’s deadly Black
Saturday fires.
£1.3 BILLION
the amount paid by
insurance companies
across 30,000 claims
for property loss,
damage and disruption
to business.
March 2021 153
BUSHFIRES

BUSHFIRES
Australia’s varied climates
mean bushfire seasons
differ across the country.
For the east coast, the risk
of bushfires is at its highest
from December to May.
Historical records show
Indigenous Australians used
fire to shape and manage
the land, but centuries
of European colonisation
have led the landscape to
become overgrown and
prone to bushfires.
At the same time, climate
change is causing prolonged
bushfire seasons while
reducing opportunities for
controlled burning activity.
Increasingly frequent and
intense bushfires over the
past decade have led to
growing public pressure on
the Australian government,
which has been ranked as
one of the worst performers
on climate change policy
by the Climate Change
Performance Index (CCPI).

FROM TOP: Sunset in the Broulee

woodlands, on the edge of the Illawong
Nature Reserve; Gavin Hughes stands in
his North of Eden gin distillery

154 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

“The people who bought our
gin then started buying more,
and they told their friends, too.
It created a following for us and
that’s what’s been building our
business. Without that support,
I don’t know what we’d have done.”
Despite above-average rainfall
recently, Bega Valley is on edge as
it enters a new bushfire season.
A warm wind blows over the
deck and Karen grows tense.
She describes how she plans to
dig a concrete bunker into the
side of the hill — a retreat for
when the next fires come.
“It’s not going to go away,”
she says. “This isn’t going to be
the last time we see this.”
Rebuilding and adapting
You don’t need an alarm clock
when you have a thousand
cicadas. At least that’s what the
persistent thrum outside sounds
like as my eyes begin to adjust to
the morning light. Through tall
A-frame windows, I see blackened
trees wearing their promising
fluffy green turtlenecks of foliage
regrowth. Rouge-plumed rosellas
pick at seeds scattered on the back
deck while I brew a coffee.
I’ve driven nearly two hours
up the coast from Bega Valley
to The Bower at Broulee, a
secluded woodland retreat
whose architecture is inspired by
bowerbird nests. Here it’s just me
and the birds (and the cicadas),
soaking up the serene views from
our perch overlooking a small lake.
Owners Mark and Sue Berry
casually tell me over breakfast
at The Mossy Cafe how they
watched their home — just a
hundred metres from the lodge
I stayed in overnight — burn to
the ground in a firestorm. “It was
like a war zone,” says Mark.
“There was no power, no fuel,
no food and no mobile service
in most areas.”
With many residents in a
state of shock, Sue says the cafe
where we’re sitting became the
unofficial meeting place for
people to decompress, collect
supplies and share news. Stories
of community heroes began to
trickle in: the nurse who saved
burning horses from paddocks;
the farmers handing free food
to evacuating motorists trapped
on freeways. Cooking in a dark,
smoky kitchen, with only head
torches for light, the staff at
The Mossy Cafe cooked and gave
away over £5,000 in food during
the first days following the fires.
Belinda Dorset, its owner and
head chef, tells me that, in
the chaos after the fires, when
government assistance could be
slow to arrive, the community
was forced to dig deep and use
the disaster as an opportunity
to improve what had been lost.
A crowdfunding campaign
led by the Rural Fire Service
helped Mark and Sue raise nearly
£6,000 for their lodge, which
they put towards reforesting
the woodlands around their
property and building bird boxes.
With their insurance money,
meanwhile, they rebuilt using
fire-resistant materials and
installed better sprinklers
systems and self-check-in
technology — a move that has
proven fortuitous in this new,
socially distant world.
A similarly ironic twist befell
Belinda, who explains the
bushfires helped her business
adapt before the arrival of
Covid-19. She was ready with an
expanded takeaway service when
the state-mandated lockdown
was introduced and, once
Sydney residents were allowed
to travel again, the Sapphire
Coast was flooded with travellers
eager to escape and support
regional communities.
At Mogo Zoo, just a stone’s
throw north of The Mossy Cafe,
giraffes stoop to nibble from
managing director Chad Staples’
palm. In between handfuls of
feed, he tells me the zoo is just
as busy now as it was before
the fires. “Our team was already
pretty close, but the fires brought
us even closer together,” he adds.
With the inferno bearing
down like a freight train, Chad
and a team of 15 zookeepers
chose to stay and defend
the zoo rather than abandon
their animals, which include
rhinos, orangutans and lions.
Unaided and without firefighting
experience, they successfully
held back the fire as it surged
around the property, without
any loss of life. In the aftermath,
the zoo grounds became a tent
city for people whose homes
had burned down. “The support
from the community was magic,”
Chad recalls. “We had people
moving roadblocks to help deliver
hay for our animals.”
The zoo received over £56,000
in donations, which was spent on
buying an improved water pump
and building an animal hospital,
in part designed to treat wildlife
caught in future bushfires. Chad’s
voice quietens when he tells me
his team weren’t inundated with
injured animals after the Black
Summer blaze. It was so fast and
intense, few survived their injuries.
More than 800 million animals
are thought to have perished in
New South Wales alone.
As we circle the zoo, a teenage
lion with a mohawk mane lopes
towards us and begins huffing
affectionately, calling Chad for a
pat through the fence. Born just a
week before the fires, the big cat
was front of the zookeeper’s mind
throughout the ordeal. There’s
always a risk with newborns that
stress might cause mothers to stop
caring for their cubs, but Chad says
the pair pulled through beautifully.
“You never name a new animal
straight away, but with him I knew
immediately: it had to be Phoenix.”
A country shaped by fire
Goannas scatter as our four-
wheel-drive bounces over a dirt
road in Ben Boyd National Park,
a sprawling coastal wilderness
popular for its Light-to-Light
trail, a self-guided multi-day hike
between two lighthouses. On
both sides of the road, once-
skeletal trees sport new growth,
and a cluster of black cockatoos
briefly wheels into view before
disappearing just as quickly.
“Australia has evolved through
fire,” says Sarah Ferguson, a park
ranger who’s driving me on a tour
of the park. As we bump along, she
explains how many people don’t
understand the role fire plays in
bush health and that many trees
here have adapted to need the
flames. Banksias and eucalyptus
trees, for instance, release their
seeds in response to fire. Sarah
points to the presence of lizards
and birds as proof of the park’s
recovery and the landscape’s
resilience — it’s a remarkable
achievement considering 70% of
the park was burned.
“The problem is we’re having
more frequent, more intense fires,
and the bush can’t recover in time,”
BUSHFIRES
Sarah tells me. “Climate change
may be changing the course of
what our forests look like.”
This growing threat means
authorities have had to seek
help from ancient sources of
knowledge. For at least 65,000
years, Australia’s Indigenous
people have used cultural
fire-burning practices to care
for the land, but until recently,
their voices had been ignored
by the government. The Royal
Commission into National Natural
Disaster Arrangements urged
authorities to include Indigenous
practices as part of a holistic
approach to land management.
Peter Dixon, an Indigenous
ranger employed by Bega Local
Aboriginal Land Council, explains
Western-style hazard-reduction
burns are led by a fear of fire
and a misunderstanding of the
bush. They create an area of
intense flame that traps wildlife,
resulting in scorched earth that
can be as damaging as a bushfire.
By contrast, traditional burning
involves smaller, low-intensity
fires intended to shape vegetation
while protecting habitats and
culturally significant landmarks.
Australian scientists have found
this preparatory practice can
reduce the destructiveness of
bushfires by as much as 30%.
“Fire is your friend and we’re
there to help the fire,” says Peter.
“The country tells us when it’s
the right time to burn — things
like moisture in the soil, animals
coming back into the area or
certain grasses appearing. The fire
ultimately tells us what’s meant to
be in the country.
“For a long time, we weren’t
allowed to practice our culture.
It feels good to be actually out
and implementing our cultural
knowledge, knowing this will one
day be fed down the lines through
our kids and then their kids.”
As we walk through the bush,
a burst of red and green catches
my eye. It’s a new bud — given life
by the flames — reaching up from
beneath the blackened bark of a
blue gum tree.
MORE INFO: northofeden.com.au
thebower.com.au
themossy.com.au
mogozoo.com.au
australia.com
visitnsw.com
March 2021 155
PARTNER CONTENT FOR THE FLORIDA KEYS & KEY WEST
ESCAPE
TO THE
ISLANDS
Lose yourself in the idyllic Florida
Keys, where a wealth of off-the-
beaten-track experiences awaits
Key Largo
Nature takes a starring role on Key Largo,
one of the world’s greatest diving spots.
Just offshore lies the fascinating John
Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park — a
swathe of the Atlantic Ocean favoured by
snorkellers and divers, who come to marvel
at a submerged statue of Christ. For more
immersion in nature, the serene idyll of the
Everglades is also easily accessible.
This pristine, UNESCO-protected tropical
wilderness is where you’ll find alligators
gliding through glassy waters and herons
paddling in the shallows.
Islamorada
In this chain of tiny islands strung between
barrier reefs, ocean adventures are par for
the course. It’s not hard to stake out crowd-
free snorkelling spots here, particularly
during the quieter months of October and
November. A highlight is Lignumvitae Key
Botanical Park — a speck of land where, on
foot and by kayak, rangers guide travellers
through the jungly interior and tangles of
mangroves for the chance to spot sharks,
rays, dolphins and manatees.
Marathon
Visiting the Dolphin Research Center and
the Turtle Hospital is a must, while Curry
Hammock State Park has mangroves and
seagrass beds, home to horseshoe crabs and
starfish. Don’t miss Aquarium Encounters
— a family-friendy marine facility with
unique experiences and exhibits.
Big Pine Key & The
Lower Keys
IMAGES: MONROE COUNTY TOURIST DEVELOPMENT COUNCIL
The Seven Mile Bridge signals the start
of this tranquil series of beaches and Essentials
backcountry. Spot Key deer in the pinelands
of National Key Deer Refuge, or explore laid-
Getting there: Various airlines fly
back Stock Island. Bahia Honda State Park direct from the UK to Miami. For
is also worth seeking out, home to paradise the latest protocols on health &
beaches and dazzling night skies. safety in the Florida Keys, please
visit the website.
Key West
With its free spirit and tropical aesthetic,
poets, artists and lost souls have long been
drawn to Key West, including celebrated
writer Ernest Hemingway. There’s a
discernible buzz to the place he called home,
with a plethora of small, local businesses,
waterfront resorts and al fresco restaurants.
For more information, visit fla-keys.co.uk
 This is just the opening act.

Nothing takes the edge off a long, dark winter quite like seeing
light at the end of the tunnel. With miles of wide open spaces,
warm, clear water and endless sunshine, there’s no brighter spot
on earth than The Florida Keys & Key West. It’s never too soon
to start planning your escape.
fla-keys.co.uk 0208 686 2600
For the latest protocols on health & safety in
The Florida Keys, please visit our website.
EVENTS

FOOD FESTIVAL
17-18 JULY 2021
B U S I N E S S DE S IG N C E NTRE , LO N DO N

We’ll be serving up a busy weekend of live

Experience the world through food
and travel at our second National
Geographic Traveller Food Festival
— an immersive two-day event over
17-18 July at the Business Design
Centre in London.
cooking demos, tasting workshops, panel
discussions and exhibitor stalls to whet your
appetite for a culinary adventure. Join big names
such as Jay Rayner, José Pizarro, Grace Dent,
Aldo Zilli, Fuchsia Dunlop, Romy Gill and Theo
Michaels as we cook, talk and taste our way
around the globe.

B U Y YO U R T I C K E T B E FO R E 1 3 M A RC H TO G E T TH E E A R LY- B I R D P R I C E O F J U ST £ 1 0

FOODFE STIVAL . NATG EOTR AVE LLE R .CO.U K

EARLY-
BIRD
TICKETS
AVAIL ABLE
FOR JUST
£10

I N PA RTN E R S H I P W ITH

158 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

M E E T TH E H E A D LI N E R S
Get to know some of the culinary stars who’ll be appearing at
the National Geographic Traveller Food Festival and taking us
on a journey round the world with their signature cuisines
JOSÉ PIZARRO
Spanish chef and author José is
the man behind three London
restaurants — José Tapas Bar,
Pizarro Bermondsey and José Pizarro
IMAGES: CHARLIE RICHARDS; COLIN BELL; GARY MOYES. FOOD STYLING: ANGELA ROMEO
Broadgate — and he opened his
fourth outpost, The Swan Inn, in
Surrey in 2019. One of the UK’s most-
respected names in Spanish cuisine,
José has also written five critically
acclaimed Spanish cookbooks; his
most recent is Andalusia: Recipes from
Seville and Beyond.
ALDO ZILLI
One of the country’s best-known
celebrity chefs, Aldo is an award-
winning restaurateur specialising
in Italian, seafood and vegetarian
cuisine. He was founder and chef-
patron at some of London’s most
exciting and innovative restaurants
and is a regular face on television and
radio, both as a presenter and chef.
He’s also penned 10 books, including
two autobiographies and a number of
cookery books.
EVENTS
FUCHSIA DUNLOP
Fuchsia’s been researching Chinese
regional food and cookery for more
than two decades and is an authority
on the country’s vastly varied cuisine.
Her books include the award-winning
Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A
Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China
and Land of Fish and Rice: Recipes
from the Culinary Heart of China,
while her most recent release, The
Food of Sichuan, was published by
Bloomsbury in October 2019.
VANESSA BOLOSIER
Vanessa is the author of the critically
acclaimed Creole Kitchen: Sunshine
Flavours from the Caribbean, a
collection of recipes blending
childhood memories growing up in
the Caribbean with ancestral stories
and a range of sunshine-filled recipes
from the islands. She’s been featured
in The Guardian, The Times, The
Mail on Sunday, The Telegraph and
Stylist and is a regular columnist for
HuffPost in France.
March 2021 159
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INBOX
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adventure? Let us
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STAR LETTER
Awesome Algarve
Your Jan/Feb 2021 edition featured a great
photo feature on the hidden Algarve by
Richard James Taylor. I lived in the Algarve
for a year in 1994, and even then it was replete
with hotels, golf courses and timeshares. But
what really surprised me was how easily I
could fi nd virtually deserted sandy beaches
barely off the beaten track. That serene
summer was one of the most memorable
of my life — I regularly found myself
lying in the gleaming sun listening to my
Walkman by the beautiful Atlantic. Seeing
Richard’s photos has pushed Portugal back
to the top of my list of places to visit again
— once we can travel further than our local
supermarkets, of course. LISA BEST
GET IN TOUCH
Surfers at Praia de Odeceixe beach,
Cape St Vincent Natural Park,
Algarve, Portugal.
Open doors
The fact that key cities around the globe
will boast new museums in 2021 is cause for
celebration (Smart Traveller, Jan/Feb 2021).
Whenever I travel, I always visit the nearest
museum — be it the serious Sixth Floor
Museum in Dallas (which chronicles the life
and death of former US president John F
Kennedy) or the Loch Ness Centre in Scotland
(which chronicles the life of a mysterious sea
monster). These are places that often give a
deeper insight into the real story of any given
place. I’m now busy plotting a post-Covid
visit to the new museums in Berlin, Oslo,
Vienna and London. RICHARD FELTON
Pens at the ready
I’ve thoroughly enjoyed going through your
Jan/Feb issue, and my pen has been busy
making notes here, there and everywhere!
Ask the Experts is now covered with
scribbles and colours, and your On The Trail
transported me back to the Yucatán, the fi rst
holiday I booked with my now husband (18
years ago) — I’d completely forgotten that
we visited the Balankamché Caves and the
Yokdzonot Cenote! So, a massive heartfelt
thank you, as I got so much positivity out
of this issue and am ready to travel again.
For the time being, I look forward to joining
you at the virtual Travel Geeks online
events! SALEHA PINHORN
March 2021 161
YOUR PICTURES

#NGTUK @NATGEOTRAVELUK
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Every issue, we highlight the best photos you’ve for inspiring travel
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Smithfield, London St Stephen’s Cathedral, Vienna, Austria Double Arch, Arches National Park, Utah, USA

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Heron Island, Queensland, Australia Antigua, Guatemala Walrus, Svalbard

162 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
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