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 January 2021

Exploring
Oral Care

Intensive Help
Soothing for Hands
Cannabis
Care

Phage
Skin Defense

Re-imagining
Mildness

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Cover Story Contents | C&T
January 2021 | Volume 136, number 1
®

6 Editor’s Note
Mind-Body-Beauty

7 Industry Insight
Self-pleasuring Linked to Glowing Skin Benefits
with J. Leventhall

7 [podcast] Sexual Wellness and

Tantalizing Connections to Beauty
with J. Leventhall

64 Ad Index

46
Market Intelligence
8 Product Roundup

10 New Ingredients & Technologies

Peer-reviewed content, designated by this icon, ensures 12 Expert Opinions: Skin Care,
the insights we deliver are vetted, authentic and reliable for readers.
Health and Hygiene
Simple, Stress-free, Natural, Microbiome Care,
Eco-friendly and Investment in Self

16 Evoking Emotion: Deeper Than Skin

Soothing Self-conscious Perceptions
by K. Steventon, Ph.D.

Research

22
22 Viral Skin Defense
Phage Therapy, A Commentary
by P. Lawrence, Ph.D., et al.

26
32
22 From the Vault: Topical Vitamin D
for Well-being

26 Ingredient Profile: Foaming for Formulators

Coco-glucoside
by P. Bahadur, Ph.D., and S. Narasimhan, Ph.D.

27 [podcast] What it Means to

Be ‘Clean’ in Beauty with T. Hedges

32 Oral Care Refresh

Intersecting Function with Beauty and Innovation
by S. Pringle, Ph.D.

2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_TOC_Masthead_DM.indd 2 12/21/20 11:37 AM

 BORĒALINE®
AURORA

SUSTAINABLE BOREAL BARK

EXTRACT TO ILLUMINATE YOUR
TRUE SELF
D0 D14
Inspired by the white pine’s search
for light and the aurora borealis
that illuminates the boreal sky, Results
Borēaline® Aurora protects and acts in only
on three different parameters of skin 14 days
complexion to give clear and even
skin for an optimal luminous look.

Tested on face and hands

lucasmeyercosmetics.com

& 7B%RUHDOLQH$XURUDB)XOOSDJHB35,17BRFWREHULQGG
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12/14/20 11:53 AM
 Editor’s note | C&T ®
Contents | C&T ®

32 EDITORIAL
Content Director
Editor in Chief
The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource

Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com

Katie Anderson | 1-630-344-6077/kanderson@allured.com
Managing Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer | 1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Assistant Editor Michele Behrens | 1-630-344-6032/mbehrens@allured.com
News Editor Hannah Fink | 1-630-344-6070/hfink@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager Jolly Patel | 1-630-344-6061/jpatel@allured.com

Testing Advertising Production Manager Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
34 Soothing Moves Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito
Cannabis Sativa Cell Culture Alleviates Inflammation Customer Service 1-847-559-7558/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
by F. Apone, Ph.D., et al.
DESIGN

56
Design Manager Kim Fry
Senior Graphic Designer James Fergus
Production Manager Bryan Crowe

CORPORATE
Partner & CEO George Fox

34
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Director of Events Maria Prior
Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero

40 Testing Tactics in Skin: Keratinocytes as OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS

Sensory Nociceptors Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Face & Body Northern California spa expo and conference

Targeting Pain and Itch Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition
Global Cosmetic Industry magazine
Face & Body Southeast spa expo and conference
Beauty Launchpad
by R. Holtz, Ph.D. Beauty Accelerate MedEsthetics
Perfumer & Flavorist magazine Dayspa
Flavorcon Nailpro

Formulating World Perfumery Congress

Skin Inc. magazine
Face & Body Midwest spa expo and conference
Nailpro San Jose
Nailpro Pasadena

46 Polyesteramine Performance
Improving Mildness in Rinse-off Cleansers For Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/subscribe
For both the US and internationally, telephone: 1-847-559-7558
by B.M. Pease and M.J. Fevola, Ph.D.
(8 AM–4:30 PM Central, Monday–Friday) Fax: 1-847-291-4816
E-mail: customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009
56 Helping Hands Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States.
All other countries may subscribe to the digital edition.
Building Soothing, Protecting, Repair and Care Products Change of address: In ordering a change of address, give both the old and new addresses. Allow two months for change to

by S. FitzPatrick and L. Radford

become effective. The publisher will attempt to handle unsolicited articles with care, but the magazine assumes no respon-
sibility for them. Materials will be returned only if accompanied by a self-addressed envelope with return postage. Address
inquiries regarding editorial policy and writer guidelines to the editor. The acceptance of advertising does not necessarily
carry the endorsement of the publisher.

62 Moisturizer Formulary Cosmetics & Toiletries® (ISSN 0361-4387CTOIDG) is published ten times per year as Jan., Feb., March, April, May, June,
July/Aug., Sept., Oct. and Nov./Dec. by Allured Business Media.
Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite D, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403.
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
DM33 Expanded Moisturizer Formulary All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Cosmetic & Toiletries,
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite D, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403. Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream, IL and additional
mailing offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Cosmetics & Toiletries, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009

facebook.com/CandTmagazine
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical
@cosmeticsandtoiletries
inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information
within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such
inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documentation referred to within or affiliated with
this publication.
Copyright 2021: Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.

4 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

Cosmetics & Toiletries and C&T are registered trademarks of Allured Publishing Corporation.

CT2101_TOC_Masthead_DM.indd 4 12/21/20 11:38 AM

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 Editor’s Note | C&T ®

Mind-Body-Beauty

Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Managing Editor
rgrabenhofer@allured.com

Scientific
Advisory Board
Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
The mind-body-beauty connection has never been more pronounced in cosmetics R&D. The
skin microbiome, inflammaging, glycation, nutricosmetics, health and wellness, circadian rhythm, Jean-Christophe Choulot
Caudalíe
autophagy, physical and emotional stress, blue light defense and more have drawn great interest
from the industry—even before the pandemic. Looking ahead, psychodermatology, bacteriophages, Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.
Dermatology
hyper hygiene, immunity boosters and even the lymphatic and cardiovascular systems are being Consulting Services
linked to beauty. Shiseido, for example, has found the accumulation of age-related inflammatory
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
factors in skin causes damage and aging, and is proposing a lymphatic approach to improve skin.1 GlaxoSmithKline
Kao Corp. has explored the effects of capillary health on blood flow and skin;2 and POLA Chemical
Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
Industries has discovered higher oxygen levels in younger than in older skin.3 TA Evans LLC/TRI Princeton
Tina Hedges, of LOLI Beauty Inc., predicts4 that moving forward, the market will turn in S. Peter Foltis
two directions: technically advanced, “prescription-like” beauty such as that described above; or Independent Consultant
“clean” and natural with proven efficacy. The market in between, not fully dedicated to one of these Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
directions, she believes will shrink. Mindy S. Goldstein, Ph.D. Consulting
The current issue of C&T presents information in both directions. For instance, Lawrence, et John Jiménez
al., explore phage therapy for skin treatments on Page 22. Holtz looks to keratinocytes as sensory Belcorp Colombia
nociceptors, to target pain and itch, on Page 40 and FitzPatrick explains how to formulate intensive Karl Laden, Ph.D.
skin barrier protection and repair for hands on Page 56. Steventon goes even deeper with a look at Alpa Cosmetics
skin blemishes versus psychology on Page 16. Howard I. Maibach, M.D.
Tortora, et al., test the soothing effects of a cannabis stem cell culture extract on Page 34. University of California, San Francisco

Bahadur and Narasimhan review coco-glucoside for skin mildness and foam on Page 26, while Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D.
Fevola and Pease evaluate polyesteramines to reduce skin irritation by commodity cleansers on Allergan/Skinmedica

Page 46. As a bonus, Pringle takes a deep dive into the emerging oral care sector on Page 32, Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.
covering everything from teeth whitening to biologically based breath-freshening. Procter & Gamble

Starting off the New Year, we look forward with optimism to embrace the opportunities created Marc Pissavini, Ph.D.
Coty-Lancaster
by dire circumstances knowing the industry is well-equipped to respond and excel, in all directions.
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.
Industrial Consulting Research
References
Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D.
1. https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/biology/Shiseido-Uncovers-IL8-Skin-Damage-Points-to-Lym- LVMH Recherche
phatic-Skin-Care-Approach_573191601.html
2. https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/testing/methoddevelopment/Kao-Dually-Visualizes-Vessels-Capillaries-in- Steve Schnittger, Ph.D.
The Estée Lauder Companies
Deep-Skin-Tissue-572937951.html
3. https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/universitydata/video-Oxygenated-Tissues-for-Soft-Elastic- Ron Sharpe
Skin-566043131.html Amway
4. https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/natural/podcast-What-it-Means-to-Be-Clean-in-
Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D.
Beauty-573094591.html Consultant

David C. Steinberg
‘Chim’ Potini Posthumously Presented Steinberg & Associates

Stanley Allured Lifetime Service Award Peter Tsolis

The Estée Lauder Companies
Adopted by the Midwest SCC to honor Stanley Allured, founder of Allured Business
Russel Walters, Ph.D.
Media (and Cosmetics & Toiletries), for his lifetime service to the industry, the award Johnson & Johnson
recognizes those who have similarly supported the society. The (posthumous) 2020
recipient is Chimpiramma (Chim) Potini, who formulated for Colgate-Palmolive Co. and Bausch & Lomb, Claudie Willemin
Inc.; operated his own company, HNC Products Inc.; and developed his own line, Hale Cosmeceu­ticals. Independent Consultant
Potini passed away on April 14, 2019, and is survived by his wife, children and three grandchi­ldren.
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.
Coty, Inc.

6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

CT2101_Editors_Note_fcx.indd 6 12/18/20 10:38 AM

 Industry Insight | C&T ®

Self-pleasuring Linked to
Glowing Skin Benefits
In a recent interview, Jamie Leventhall, founder and CEO of the
sexual wellness brand clio/plusOne, described arousing results from
a new clinical study, to be released this month (January 2021),
connecting the effects of masturbation with skin benefits. Following
is an excerpt adapted from this conversation. To access the full
interview, see Page 10 of your digital edition and click to listen.

C&T: How does self-pleasuring or masturbation relate to skin

health? What inspired the idea that these two might be connected?

CA: When we launched the sexual wellness category and were devel-
oping the identity of our brand, at that first meeting we talked about
how we wanted to see this through the wellness and beauty lens.
Someone at the table talked about that “healthy glow” women get as
a result of orgasm and that theme permeated the early brand identity.
We also constantly talked about the notion that these products are
good for you, and it all seemed to come back to skin. At one point, we
said, “Why don’t we put our money where our mouth is?” It may have
also been a member of the media who challenged us to “prove it.” At
that point, we reached out to a third party to run a true clinical study.
We leaned heavily on that clinic, as they do a good deal of testing
skin care products for efficacy and clinical benefits to determine the
variables. We looked at complexion and acne, specifically, and cre-
ated some 18-20 test parameters with the clinic. We set some pretty
aggressive benchmarks in terms of performance and the results were
fairly staggering.
In our sample size of about 40 women, subjects used one of our
vibrators to achieve orgasm at least three days a week for 8 weeks.
Evaluations were made by a clinical grader as well as instrumentally.
We looked at collagen levels, skin firmness,
radiance, luminosity, mid-face sagging, fine
lines and wrinkles.
Compared with baseline, all variables
improved. Statistically significant improve-
ments were seen in elasticity and firmness but Podcast
what I found most compelling was the feedback
the participants provided at the conclusion of
the study: 66% of the women felt their skin
looked more radiant and brighter; and 54%
indicated the texture of their skin improved.
We’ve taken the stigma away by proving that
these products are good for you from both a
beauty/complexion standpoint and in the way
they make you feel. Now we’re in the midst of
our second and third clinical studies on the
medical health benefits of masturbation
and orgasm.

Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® |7

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 Product Roundup [Ingredients, Equipment & Services]
Highlighting innovative ingredients, services and products

Puresterol
Bio-Botanica Inc.
bio-botanica.com/?s=puresterol
Puresterol (INCI: Pueraria Mirifica) acts as an anti-wrinkle agent. It helps
to smooth skin, support healthy hair growth, improve eye health and
support restful sleep. Silwax J219M
Siltech
siltech.com/industry-applications/personal-care/
Silwax J219M (INCI: Cetyl/Hexacosyl Dimethicone) is a poly-
alkylated silicone-containing liquid and solid alkyl pendant
groups. It has a feel and cushion similar to petrolatum.
Silwax J219M melts on the skin and improves formulation
spreadability. This soft, thixotropic product can be used in
lotions, sun care and makeup—minus unwanted tackiness.

Campo Plantservative
Campo Research
campo-research.com
With the help of green chemistry, Campo Plantservative (INCI: Lonicera
Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract (and) Lonicera Caprifolium (Honey-
suckle) Flower Extract (and) Water (Aqua)) is produced from wildly cropped
honeysuckle without the use of synthetic substances. This ingredient
contains phytochemicals with broad-spectrum antimicrobial properties.
Pomegranate Oil
Arista Industries, Inc.
aristaindustries.com
Arista's Pomegranate Oil (INCI: Punica Granatum Seed Oil) is an
odorless, mild, pale oil that can be used as an emollient for hair
and skin care. The oil contains high levels of vitamins, antioxi-
dants, minerals, phytosterols and omega-5 and -6 fatty acids.
It has regenerative, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties
to help treat skin conditions such as eczema and acne.

8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

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 PolyFructol Plus
Mibelle Group Biochemistry
mibellebiochemistry.com/de/polyfructol-plus
PolyFructol Plus (INCI: Inulin (and) Glycerin (and) Methylpropanediol
(and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenylpropanol (and) Lecithin (and) Xan-
than Gum (and) Water (Aqua)) contains natural oligofructose from
chicory in lecithin liposomes for 48 hr hydration and more. Report-
edly, after a single application in a shower product, the ingredient
hydrates skin, especially compromised skin. The active also shows
protective and repair effects.

Gatuline Renew
Gattefossé
gattefosse.com/fr/personal-care-actives/gatuline-renew
A natural origin extract of Japanese cedar buds, Gatuline Renew (INCI:
Butylene Glycol (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract)
is rich in energetic phytochemicals that stimulate epidermal renewal. It re-
launches the cell renewal mechanism, ensuring the recovery of a functional
skin barrier and proper water homeostasis. As a result, the skin is more
hydrated, softer and smoother.

Exo-P
LucasMeyer Cosmetics by IFF
lucasmeyercosmetics.com/en/products?title=EXO-P
To limit keratin and cuticle damage, Exo-P (INCI: Water (Aqua)
(and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Extract) forms
a biomimetic shield against pollution. It protects and cleanses
skin and hair exposed to indoor/outdoor pollution by reducing
PM2.5 adhesion on the skin and hair surface, while also chelat-
ing heavy metals.

Phytosqualan
Sophim
sophim.com/en/product/phytosqualan/
Phytosqualan (INCI: Squalane) is a natural squalane of plant origin from
a renewable raw material. The ingredient restores the epidermis' lipid
barrier and prevents transepidermal water loss to restore suppleness and
elasticity of skin. Phytosqualan supports the development of silky and
non-greasy textures, with additional spreading properties to penetrate
easily into the skin.

Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® |9

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 New Ingredients & Technologies
Featuring the latest products, ingredients, technologies, services, data and more

BP-ExfoliCare Line GlowAGE

BotanicalsPlus/JEEN International
BP-ExfoliCare products are natural exfoliants consisting of BHAs, AHAs
and blends thereof, derived from fruit extracts to address chemical
exfoliation needs. Additionally, the line offers three ingredients to nor-
malize hydration and electrolytes, and to boost the vitality of skin.
Mibelle Biochemistry
GlowAGE (INCI: Ziziphus Spina-Christi Leaf Extract (and) Trehalose
(and) Water (Aqua)) is a natural active to prevent and reduce glycation
in the skin for a rejuvenated and radiant appearance.

CelluCap R Number 6
Tagra Biotechnologies Laboratoires Expanscience
CelluCap R (INCI: Retinol (and) Number 6 (INCI: Propane-
Cellulose Acetate Butyrate diol (and) Water (Aqua) (and)
(and) Tricaprylin (and) Pentaer- Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract)
ythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxy- is a natural ingredient from
hydrocinnamate) offers and upcycled avocados to promote
approach to deliver stabilized anti-fatigue in skin, specifically
retinol via microencapsulates around the eyes to impart a
to improve performance and youthful glow.
shelf life in the final formula.

Neutrol MGDA Acnesium

BASF Care Creations
Neutrol MGDA (INCI: Trisodium Dicarboxymethyl Alaninate) is a stable,
eco-friendly chelating agent for personal care applications.
Silab
Acnesium (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract)
is a natural ingredient obtained from the pericarps of immature pome-
granates that restores the homeostasis of acneic skin by targeting its
principal abnormalities.

10 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_New_Ingred_Tech_fcx.indd 10 12/15/20 5:22 PM


Boreˉaline Aurora
LucasMeyer Cosmetics by IFF
Borēaline Aurora (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Pinus Strobus Bark Extract)
is derived from white pine and improves complexion and luminosity to
provide radiant and glowing skin by simultan­eously working on three
parameters of skin complexion.
Citropol H
P2 Science, Inc.
Citropol H (INCI: Polycitronellol) is derived from sustainable feed-
stocks and is a viable natural alternative to dimethicone 350 cPs.
The ingredient imparts a lightweight, velvety feel in personal care
and cosmetics formulations and is compatible with skin and hair
care, deodorant/​antipers­pirant applications and color cosmetics.

DL Goji Prebiotic AlgaPuˉr High Stability High Oleic Glycacil 2000

Deveraux Specialties
Extracted from goji peptidoglycans, DL Goji
Prebiotic (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Propane-
diol (and) Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract) is
an anti-aging and microbiome-protecting
prebiotic ingredient.
(HSHO) Algae Oil
Lubrizol Life Science (LLS) Beauty
AlgaPūr High Stability High Oleic (HSHO)
Algae Oil (INCI: Triolein) is a bio-based
oil derived from microalgae that was
sustainably sourced from chestnut tree
sap, delivering multiple benefits for hair
and scalp care.
Lonza
Glycacil 2000 (INCI: Iodopropynyl Butylcar-
bamate or IPBC) is a preservative designed
to replace parabens in personal care
formulations.

Ganother Méditerranée Line

B&C S.p.A.
Ganother (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Ganoderma Lucidum
(Mushroom) Mycelium Ferment Filtrate) is able to stimulate pro-
tein synthesis in human hair dermal papilla fibroblasts and inhibit
5α-reductase to reduce the effects of androgenic alopecia.
Roelmi HPC
The Méditerranée Line is a selection of natural extracts cultivated
from Mediterranean plants to create sustainable botanicals for
personal care applications. The extracts are biodegradable and can
be used in w/o-based cosmetic formulations at varying dosages.

Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 11

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 EXPERT
OPINIONS

Skin Care, Health and Hygiene:

Simple, Stress-free, Natural, Microbiome Care,
Eco-friendly and Investment in Self

Contributors:

B
LIKI VON OPPEN-BEZALEL, PH.D.,
ISRAEL-GERMANY BIO-TECH CONSULTING

EZGI TODURGE, BOTANICAL PLUS

PATRICIA LEON MELGAR, CANDELA ORGANIC

ROSANNA STOKES,
EMERALD KALAMA CHEMICAL esides protecting and holding us together,
ARUNASIRI IDDAMALGODA, PH.D., skin is an effective communicator. It can
ICHIMARU PHARCOS CO., LTD. indicate emotion, turning red with embar-
JED RIEMER, JEEN INTERNATIONAL CORP.
rassment or anger, or pale with fear. It
glows with vitality when we’re happy and
FRANCESCO RASTRELLI, KALICHEM
healthy, or dulls, yellows, flares up, itches,
LAURE-ANNE GILLON, SEPPIC INC. wrinkles, cracks, sags, etc., with age, imbalance and disease. It even
GIOIA ZAMBON,
tingles and warms with excitement—or betrays us as dark circles
SIBELIUS NATURAL PRODUCTS and under-eye bags if we’ve stayed out too late, or as redness and
inflammation when we’ve surpassed our UV limit.
DANNY GOLDSTEIN,
TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES
It has even been explored as a coronavirus indicator; take
“COVID-19 fingers and toes,” for example. As we’ve previously

12 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 12 12/21/20 11:59 AM

 reported,1 work published
by researchers at King’s
College London proposed
the diagnostic potential
of “COVID-19 fingers and
toes,” which present with
reddish and purplish bumps
or rashes. These can occur
even in the absence of other
symptoms and could be
used to identify carriers of
the virus.
This proposal was based
on data collected from
336,000 users of the “COVID
Symptom Study” app in the
UK. Of these, 8.8% reporting
positive coronavirus swab
tests also reported skin
rashes as part of their symp-
toms, compared with 5.4%
of those reporting negative
test results.
Another online survey col-
lected data and photographs
of nearly 12,000 individuals
with both skin rashes and
suspected or confirmed
cases of COVID-19. Of the
respondents testing positive
for the coronavirus, 17%
reported a rash as the first
symptom—and for one in
five people (21%), the rash
was their only symptom.
These rashes generally fell
into three categories: hive-type (urticaria); “prickly
heat” or chickenpox-type; and chilblains on fingers
and toes.
The lead author of this study, dermatologist
Veronique Bataille, M.D., Ph.D., stated, “Many viral
infections can affect the skin, so it’s not surprising
that we are seeing these rashes in COVID-19. How-
ever, it is important that people know that in some
cases, a rash may be the first or only symptom of
the disease.”
Even after recovering from the
coronavirus, an individual may see
their skin continuing to tell the tale
of COVID-19. In reviewing nearly
1,000 lab-confirmed COVID-19
patients with skin manifest¬ations,
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 13
researchers at Massachusetts General Hospital
found rash-like morbilliform (measles-appearing
rashes) and urticarial (hives) eruptions could last
an average of 4-7 days and up to 28 days. Papulo-
squamous eruptions (scaly papules and plaques)
lasted a median of 20 days, and one confirmed
eruption lasted up to 70 days.2
From a personal care market perspective, skin/
skin care also serves as an indicator of trends to
come. Technologies frequently transfer from skin
into hair and other categories; take anti-aging,
sun protection, anti-pollution, naturals, “clean
beauty” and the microbiome, for example. With
this in mind—and considering the year we’ve just
had—we looked to industry experts to share their
insights on current concerns and trends shaping
skin care, health and hygiene, as well as future
directions for product development. Perhaps these
will eventually roll out across product categories.
Here’s what they had to say.
Simplistic, Stress-Reducing
and Nutricosmetics
“Due to the pandemic, there was a [major]
shift in work and lifestyle, dress codes, emotional
needs as well as economics for many of us,” writes
Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, Ph.D., a consultant with
Israel-Germany Bio-Tech Consulting. “This led to
different needs from cosmetic, health and personal
care products. Consumers want more ‘down-
to-earth,’ healthy, effective, easy-to-use… and
affordable products, yet natural, sustainable and
climate-preserving, innovative stories and routines
that are simple, less time-consuming and [that fit
into a] healthier lifestyle.”
She noted products are expected to provide
hydrating, soothing and emotional stress-reducing
effects, especially in light of our new environ-
ment—including increased digital stress. This
includes products targeting cell machinery related
to aging and stress. Other benefits sought include
anti-inflammation, immuno-modulation and
mood modulation.
How might the industry find a way back to
‘normal’? “I believe that finally, we [have come] to
More on Hand Hygiene
Be sure to check out our September
2020 edition.
| 13
12/21/20 11:59 AM
 Expert Opinions: Skin Care
Excessive use of dry shampoos and an increase in bleaching, coupled with mental stress, all play a significant role in scalp concerns.
the era of nutricosmetics/beauty from within
as part of integrative platforms for skin health
and beauty via nutrition, … physical activity
and mindset (soul),” she writes. For example,
she is working with the development of prod-
ucts such as B’utyQuin (INCI: Nigella Sativa
Seed Oil) and the nutraceutical ThymoQuin,
a standardized, cold-pressed black cumin oil.
“These topical and edible ingredients target key
benefits such as [the] mitochondrial functions
[of] revitalization, inflammation, oxidation and
immuno-modulation.”
In addition, BlueGuard-Oral is a standard-
ized nutricosmetic blend of components to
protect against digital aging thanks to exposure
to damaging blue light emitted from digital
devices—which, of course, has increased during
the pandemic due to social distancing and
working remotely.
Psychodermatology,
Inflammaging and
Scalp Care
Ezgi Todurge, marketing director for Jeen
International Corp., provides a spot-on example
of technology transfer from skin into hair
care. “Scalp care is the latest area of focus for
skin care,” she writes, “followed by ‘maskne’
and psychodermatology. Excessive use of dry
shampoos and an increase in bleaching…
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CT2101_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 14
coupled with environmental stressors and high
levels of mental stress all play a significant role
in causing scalp concerns.”
She adds that society is now embracing
mental wellness as an important factor of over-
all well-being, which has been challenged by the
uncertainty of the global pandemic. In relation,
she believes that psychodermatology will take
the lead in the skin care category.
“As proven by science, the interaction
between the mind and skin is undeniable.
Increased levels of stress/anxiety cause an
increase in cortisol production, leading to
inflammation and excess oil production, which
then leads to various skin concerns; from
acne and rosacea, to microbiome imbalance
and premature aging of skin, among many
other concerns.”
For brands, Todurge points to targeted solu-
tions against inflammaging as an area of focus,
especially as more studies prove it to be at the
core of skin/scalp issues. She also thinks con-
sumers will begin favoring efficacious skin care
products that offer multisensorial experiences
as users start to rely on them as accessible,
gratifying indulgences that offer a mental
escape—even if only for a minute, during times
of uncertainty and high anxiety.
Specific to inflammaging, Todurge under-
lines extensive studies that have shown the
capabilities of the plant-powered technology
12/21/20 11:59 AM
 series known as StrataPhix (INCI: Not Pro-
vided). “[These products are] capable of both
reversing and preventing skin inflammaging to
combat a large variety of skin/scalp concerns
by suppressing the formation of active cas-
pase-1—the protein responsible for triggering
cellular inflammation.”
Safer Naturals with
Standards
Patricia Leon Melgar, vice president of U.S.
sales and marketing for Candela Organic, sees
a rise in consumer concerns over ingredient
safety as a continued driving force for naturals.
“Consumers are turning to natural and organic
personal care products [due to] concerns about
synthetic chemicals in cosmetics and [personal
care],” she writes. “Many consumers believe
there is a link between … parabens, sulfates,
phthalates and aluminum salts to conditions
such as breast cancer, rosacea and Alzheimer’s
Disease. Consumers are buying natural and
organic personal care products because
these products are considered safer than
conventional products.”
According to Melgar, the North American
market expanded by 3.1% to $5.2 billion in
2017 although the growth rate declined because
of a contraction in the natural cosmetics cat-
egory this year. However, she observes, “Healthy
Consumers are buying natural and organic personal care products because these are considered safer.
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CT2101_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 15
growth rates are envisaged to resume in the
coming years, pushing revenues to $6.8 billion
in 2023.”
She cites Ecovia Intelligence’s projection
that the North American market will show a
4.6% compound annual growth rate, driven by:
consumer concerns about contentious chemi-
cals in cosmetics and personal care; increasing
distribution in mass market retailers; broaden-
ing sales channels for natural personal care
products; and new product launches.
In relation, she also emphasized, “There
is a high level of … confusion with consum-
ers unable to differentiate between legitimate
natural and organic personal care products,
[and] falsely labeled ones. This confusion is
leading retailers to develop their own standards
or criteria for natural personal care products.
[For example], Whole Foods Market introduced
its Premium Body care Standard in 2008, whilst
Sephora launched the ‘Clean at Sephora’ label
in 2018.”
Empowered Consumers
and Sustainable Supply
Rosanna Stokes, business development
manager for the Americas at Emerald Kalama
Chemical, underscored, “This is the era
of the empowered consumer. Consumers
want to understand the ingredients in their
| DM2
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 Expert Opinions: Skin Care
products, and they are more likely to purchase
products that meet their values for safety
and sustainability.”
She added that this is exemplified in the
way label trends have evolved. “Consumers
are looking for ‘clean’ labels with shorter INCI
lists and more recognizable ingredients, as well
as indicators that products are greener, more
eco-friendly and gentler on the skin,” she writes.
“According to Mintel, the fastest-growing claims
for skin care products … [in] the past 5 years
are related to vegan ingredients (10.1% growth),
environmentally friendly packaging (4.7%), no
animal cruelty (4%), recyclability (3.9%), lower
impact to habitats and resources (3.8%) and
environmentally friendly products (3%).”
Manufacturers are addressing these needs
by adopting milder surfactants, multifunctional
ingredients and eco-friendly, non-irritating
preservative systems to replace chemistries
under scrutiny. For example, 99.9% pure Purox
S sodium benzoate and Kalama Sodium Benzo-
ate provide a nature-identical alternative to
sensitizing preservatives and are biodegradable.
And multifunctionals such as Emerald 3PP
(INCI: Phenylpropanol) boost cleansing, stability,
processing and antimicrobial efficacy.
Looking ahead, Stokes sees sustainable sourc-
ing and nature-identical offerings as the way
forward in skin care. “The definition of sustain-
ability is evolving to include a focus on the total
supply chain,” she explains. “There is a grow-
ing consumer concern about how the various
components of a finished commercial product
are produced, processed and transported.”
This includes considerations such as protect-
ing the communities from which raw materials
are sourced, and a growing awareness that
extracting these ingredients can negatively
impact sensitive ecosystems. “In addition, there
is a significant opportunity for nature-identical
ingredients in skin care,” she adds.
Barrier Care,
Microflora and Anti-acne
During the COVID-19 pandemic, skin
hygiene-related products have gained market
share. In response, according to Arunasiri Idda-
malgoda, Ph.D., director of R&D for Ichimaru
Pharcos Co., Ltd., “There may be an increasing
number of products supporting barrier protec-
tion due to regular [cleansing] with high-ethanol
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CT2101_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 16
content products. Therefore, barrier care and
skin microflora-targeting products may become
more important concepts for formulators.”
Perhaps an even greater impact of the
pandemic has been on marketing channels
such as online business, which Iddamalgoda
believes may keep the pace even after COVID-19
recovery. Furthermore, the industry has wit-
nessed different mask-induced skin problems
such as acne, depending on age or skin type,
which have become an important issue during
the pandemic.
“Even after the pandemic, people may
keep using masks (probably),” Iddamalgoda
writes. “[In] countries like Japan, it is a general
practice to use masks during spring to prevent
pollen allergies, and in winter to prevent influ-
enza. So, [these] mask-induced effects may be
less in Japan … than [in] other countries [that
are wearing] masks for the first time.”
To address acne and related skin prob-
lems, the company offers Soapnuts Extract
Powder (INCI: Sapindus Trifoliatus Fruit
Extract). In addition, to effectively rebalance
the skin microflora, a product from a Lacto-
bacillus species derived from Japanese rice
has been developed: Fairy Flora K-1 (INCI:
Lactobacillus). Finally, Iddamalgoda stresses,
“Anti-inflammatory ingredients are important
for any of the above product concepts, [for
which we have] developed [a] multifunctional
… anti-inflammatory cosmetic ingredient with
proven efficacy, in vitro and in vivo: IZAYOI
(INCI: Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract).”
‘Clean’ Yet Effective,
Plant-powered and
Alternative Preservatives
Jed Riemer, principal scientist at Jeen
International Corp., believes “clean” beauty
will remain at the forefront. “’Clean’ beauty
continues to dominate the market and with it
comes many formulation challenges for brands
and chemists,” he writes. “Maintaining stability
and adequate shelf life while ensuring efficacy
are a few of many key necessities that are
driving innovation within the field. Consumers
don’t just want ‘clean’ products—they want
‘clean’ products that also work, and even elevate
their mood.”
He adds that the market will likely see more
niche, local and/or traditional natural ingredi-
12/21/20 11:59 AM
 ents emerge with new discoveries around their
wholesome benefits—new in the sense that they
are being used in a novel way in a formula-
tion, or have a longstanding heritage overseas
but gain new attraction in North America and
Europe; for example, what the industry has
been experiencing with ingredients such as
turmeric, matcha and ashwagandha. “Demand
for plant-powered formulations has [driven]
and will continue to drive further exploration
and studies around biotechnology and how we
can make the most out of what Mother Nature
has to offer,” he notes.
Jeecide Cap-7 (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol (and)
Glyceryl Laurate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate),
the company’s latest launch, is a good example
of innovation responding to current and future
needs. As Riemer explains, “This multifunc-
tional ingredient has powerful antimicrobial
properties; is free of traditional preservatives
such as phenoxyethanol, parabens, MITs and
formaldehyde releasers; and prevents microbial
growth of Gram-positive and Gram-negative
bacteria, as well as yeast and mold.” The
ingredient is reportedly easy to use in cationic,
anionic and nonionic systems, and can be
leveraged in “preservative-free” formulations
to ensure product integrity as well as provide
emollient and skin-conditioning benefits.
The market will likely see more niche, local and/or traditional natural ingredients emerge with new discoveries around their wholesome benefits.
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CT2101_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 17
Eco-friendly, Biotech-
derived and Clinical Beauty
Currently, the skin care, health and hygiene
market is heavily focused on the environ-
mentally conscious consumer, according to
Francesco Rastrelli, general manager at Kali-
chem. “This concept may be explained [by] four
different points: attention to environmental
impact, sustainable products, green chemistry
and organic and natural products and ingredi-
ents,” he writes.
In relation, he underlines another important
trend: biotech-derived ingredients. Re-created
in the lab, these innovative, pure and effective
products have also been shown to be highly
safe. “Biotechnologies have many advantages,”
he adds. “With no impact on the ecosystem
[or] biodiversity, they ensure a constant quality
standard and … achieve higher performances
than natural, conventional ingredients.”
Rastrelli highlights one of the categories that
leverages this higher potentiality: cosmeceutical
and functional cosmetics, which he designates
as “clinical beauty.” “In this category, there are
cosmetic products that promote physiological
skin regeneration processes through moistur-
izing and soothing actions, rebalancing and
normalizing the skin barrier,” he explains.
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 Expert Opinions: Skin Care
Looking ahead, he sees biotechnology and
“cosmetobionics” as advancing the frontier
of this market with chemical ingredients and
natural production processes characterized by
eco-sustainability and green chemistry. “In this
area, we are talking about ingredients derived
from biofermentation processes, or postbot-
ics [as well as], molecular biology (DNA and
polynucleotides) and circular economy proj-
ects—the slow beauty approach,” he explains.
“And … ingredients developed [by upcycling]
waste materials and using starting materials
which may be pollutants for the environment.”
He gave the example of Olivoil Lipoproteins
and Lipoamino acids (INCIs: Not Provided),
which can be upcycled from starting materials
from the olive oil food industry.
Wellness, Microbiome
Balance and
Conscious Beauty
Wellness and conscious beauty are ris-
ing to the top in skin care, as Laure-Anne
Gillon, operational marketing manager for
beauty care in North America at SEPPIC Inc.,
explains. “Consumers are increasingly health-
conscious…,” she writes. “They will look, more
and more, for safe products, and take care of
their body and spirit as a whole.”
In relation, Gillion underlines that product
safety and skin tolerance have always been and
remain key concerns at her company. “Ex vivo
skin models allow us to evaluate our ingre-
dients’ tolerance on the most sensitive skin,”
she adds. “[Our] Sepinov EMT 10 polymer
(INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acry-
loyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer), for instance,
demonstrates excellent tolerance in immature
skin, perfect for baby products.”
She also stressed the importance of the
microbiome. “… We want to offer more ingre-
dients like Equibiome (INCI: Propylene Glycol
(and) Water (aqua) (and) Arctium Lappa Root
Extract) to restore harmony between the skin
and its microbiome.”
Beyond wellness, Gillon points to the con-
sumer trend for conscious beauty. “Consumers
want eco-designed products made by compa-
nies committed to the environment with social
added values.” To this end, she underscores her
company’s commitment to sustainable innova-
tion, considering each step of the product
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CT2101_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 18
lifecycle when creating new ingredients.
For example, smart sourcing means valo-
rizing by-products, as demonstrated by the
company’s Sepifine BB (INCI: Amylopectin)
babassu nut powder, or its Hydralixir (INCI:
Water (Aqua) (and) Laminaria Digitata Extract)
algae water, which support local communities
involved in botanical sourcing. Eco-friendly
processing of production waste is utilized to
create the company’s Montanov (INCI: Alkyl
Polyglycosides) emulsifier sludges. Finally,
a low environmental footprint is supported
by-products such as FluidFeel Easy emulsifier
(INCI: Lauryl Glucoside (and) Myristyl Gluco-
side (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate), which allows
for cold-process formulation.
Investment in
Self and Health, and
Quality Ingredients
New product and ingredient innovations are
driving skin care consumers toward a “health”
mindset. Gioia Zambon, North America sales
and marketing for Sibelius Natural Products,
writes, “One of the most prominent drivers,
also influenced by the outbreak of COVID-19, is
the expansion of consumer skin care routines.
People are generally spending more time at
home taking care of their health and wellness,
and are generally investing more in high-quality
beauty products.”
According to Zambon, amid the challenges
that COVID-19 presented, the global market
for skin health is estimated to grow by 3.6%
over the period from 2020-2027.3 In relation,
the natural category is expected to outgrow
the others due to the increasing influence of
“chemical-free” products with no side effects.
“There are plenty of opportunities for manu-
facturers who decide to invest in R&D with the
aim of introducing improved plant extracts to
the skin health and personal care market,” she
adds. “Furthermore, different regulations are
encouraging the use of natural products, thus
boosting growth in this market.”
What direction might this market take mov-
ing forward? Zambon believes the focus will
shift to the quality of ingredients. “It’s certainly
important to choose … ingredients wisely. In a
market where you hear a lot about adulteration,
finding a good source is often underrated.”
For this reason, her company uses Chroo-
12/21/20 12:00 PM
 screen technology to
screen ingredients.
“[It allows for] the
identification of
biologically active
natural products by
measuring health
span in the model
organism Cae-
norhabditis elegans,”
she explained.
“[This] provides
strong preclinical
research that helps
bridge the gap
between funda-
mental research An increasing number of products may support barrier protection due to regular cleansing with high-ethanol content products.
and clinical stud-
ies. Through the results discovered by [this]
testing platform, researchers can manage
risk before committing to expansive clinical
trials,” she concludes.
Maskne, Efficiency and
Sanitizer + Care
Finally, Danny Goldstein, vice president of
R&D at Tagra Biotechnologies, described the
effects of health and hygiene on the skin care
market. “At a time when people are wearing
masks to protect from COVID-19, many are
exposing their faces to more irritation than
usual,” Goldstein writes. “This has resulted in
the issue of ‘maskne.’ … Consumers should
be provided with targeted products to reduce
these breakouts.”
Goldstein added that hand sanitizer sales
have shot up, and skin care brands are now
creating upscale and differentiated versions
of hand sanitizer that offer skin care-like
branding and benefits. “The pandemic has
fundamentally changed the way consumers
interact with the world, requiring elevated
hygiene practices,” Goldstein notes. “Consum-
ers continue to feel a sense of unease in the
world and are looking to manage the things
within their control, specifically by focusing
on their grooming and hygiene regimes.”
A growing knowledge of ingredients, fueled
by personal research and social media, has
also driven consumer interest in effective and
efficient personal care regimens. In response,
hybrid products can ensure their routine
remains simple to save time.
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CT2101_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 19
In the future, Goldstein believes the market
will be driven by proven technologies that
deliver fresh and effective ingredients. “[These
will provide] outstanding performance, cus-
tomer experience and ease of formulation,
[and] will better allow skin care brands to
design effective and innovative products.”
The company’s microencapsulated technolo-
gies can support maskne and hybrid product
development. For one, WS SA50 (INCI: Salicylic
Acid (and) Sodium Polyacrylate) is a water-
soluble form of salicylic acid. In addition,
CameleonCaps encapsulated pigments create
color-change effects. “[This is] a great tool for
skin care brands to communicate with consum-
ers and combine color cosmetics with skin care
in a single formulation,” Goldstein concluded.
References
1. Grabenhofer, R. (2020, Sep 25). Skin rashes and hair
loss: Biological connections to COVID-19. Available at
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/biology/
Skin-Rashes-and-Hair-Loss-Biological-Connections-to-
COVID-19_572535661.html
2. Grabenhofer, R. (2020, Nov 12). Study finds skin rashes
persist Post-COVID-19 infection. Available at https://www.
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/biology/Study-Finds-
Skin-Rashes-Persist-Post-COVID-19-Infection-573056741.
html
3. Research and Markets (2020, Sep 25). Global cosmetic
skin care industry (2020 to 2027)—Market trajectory
and analytics. Available at https://www.globenews-
wire.com/news-release/2020/09/25/2099275/0/en/
Global-Cosmetic-Skin-Care-Industry-2020-to-2027-Market-
Trajectory-Analytics.html
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 Market Intelligence | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• Consumers often excessively groom to
diminish or remove imperfections, which
results in picking and scratching and can
cause more harm than good.

• In this column, the author looks at the

science behind why consumers pick and
probe acne—and how that can be a further
detriment to appearance.

Evoking Emotion

Deeper
Than Skin:
Soothing Self-conscious Perceptions

Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.

FaceWorkshops LLC, York, UK

16 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
“ The Skin, the Brain and the Invisible,” was the title of
a seminal paper demonstrating a more than skin-deep
connection of these two organs.1 The skin is the vis-
ible envelope of the human body, playing a key role in perceived
attractiveness and denoting cues about a person’s health, age and
background. When looking at facial skin in the mirror, we experience
a self-judgment of our attractiveness—leading to positive or negative
emotions. It is our own judgment as well as the mirroring of our peer
group, friends and family that matters the most.

Reproduction in English or any other language of

all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
© 2021 Allured Business Media.

CT2101_Mrkt_Steventon_fcx.indd 16 12/15/20 5:36 PM


The skin and brain have a close bidirectional
anatomical and functional connection, yet the
brain has only recently been demystified by
functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI),
a technique that allows indirect visualization
of its activity. Research has mainly focused on
the experimental itch-scratch cycle to describe
the brain structures involved in itch process-
ing and the regulation of the scratch response
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Mrkt_Steventon_fcx.indd 17
on contagious itch and its
suppression.1 The itching and
burning sensations without
a visual and objective sign of
irritation are what defines a
sensitive skin type. Also, the
neural basis of self-perceived
sensitive skin, prevalent in
more than 50% of the female
population—and often
questionable due to a lack of
understanding of the specific
physiological pattern—has
been objectively confirmed by
fMRI. Research has shown
that compared with controls,
people with self-perceived
sensitive skin have a specific
cerebral activation during skin
irritation challenge.2
Excessive
Grooming
Patterns
The brain has been wired
to focus on imperfections to
ward off infection and find a
healthy partner, thus humans
pay attention to clinical signs
of aging and disease in oneself
and others. Grooming the skin
may reward us with pleasure
or, if excessive with scratching,
picking and removing skin
irregularities, it can inflict
repetitive skin damage. Both
visual skin irregularities such
as bumps and pimples and the
sensation of itching can elicit
excessive grooming patterns.
In relation, itch is a
symptom of skin irritation or
infection. This is an evolution-
Want more from
this author?
For, “Evoking Emotion: All Judgements
Aside,” check out page DM7 in your
May 2020 digital magazine.
| 17
12/15/20 5:36 PM
 Deeper Than Skin
Ecessive scratching, picking or removing skin irregularities can inflict reptitive skin damage.
People with acne perceive
greater stigmatization
related to their skin than
people without acne.
based behavioral strategy that arose in our
ancestors to reduce infectious risk by excessive
hygiene with cleaning, washing and scratching
to remove skin pathogens. The urge to remove
both visual and sensory cues triggers scratching
and cleaning and, as a response, is very power-
ful—the degree of this response is linked to
one’s own perceived vulnerability. It is a health-
protecting behavior and invites disgust-related
rejection, distancing and avoidance in others.
The role of neurotransmitters in excessive
grooming is likely. Serotonin dysregulation
may play a role in excessive cleaning, wash-
ing and skin picking while dopamine agonists
can reduce excessive grooming. In contrast,
oxytocin may entice more grooming, suggest-
18 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2101_Mrkt_Steventon_fcx.indd 18
Deeper Than Skin
ing it serves a purpose in enhancing bonding
and establishing, as well as maintaining,
social relationships.3
In patients that pick skin excessively, fMRI
scans of the brain show there is greater acti-
vation in the left insula and amygdala, and
stronger insula-putamen coupling. Disgust
feelings elicited by seeing skin irregularities
on the screen relate to the activation of these
brain areas. The insula holds a representation
of disgust observation, experience and imagina-
tion and is involved in the perception of bodily
experiences, such as touch and itch. Both
areas play a role in the urge to scratch and the
subsequent relief is derived from scratching.
People who repeatedly pick and scratch
their own skin may have an oversensitive
(disgust-driven) behavioral immune system and
difficulties in regulating their emotions when
experiencing negative emotional states. They
self-soothe with picking, which provides relief.4
Acne Excoriée, Confidence
and Well-being
Acne vulgaris in particular has been
associated with skin picking and excoriation,
12/15/20 5:36 PM
 especially Acne excoriée or “picker’s acne.” This
condition is commonly seen in women with late-onset
acne, where lesions are compulsively squeezed and
scratched, resulting in scabs and scars. It presents
a challenge closely associated with mood changes,
prompting individuals to continue to scratch lesions.
To address this behavior, cognitive therapy as an
adjuvant treatment has been shown to improve both
clinical severity and reduce depression and anxiety.5
However, the highly visible manifestation of acne
such as whiteheads, blackheads, pustules, papules
and cysts that vary in frequency and severity lead to
deficits in psychological well-being including depres-
sion, decreased self-confidence, fatigue, poorer body
image, satisfaction, etc.6 Indeed, the clinical treat-
ment of women with even mild acne involves a range
of emotions, such as theirs and others’ judgments—
and people’s own perceptions of acne severity are
more important than objective assessments, as these
affect their body image and self-confidence.
Women with facial acne have higher feelings of
unattractiveness and this perceived stigma is the
largest unique contribution to predicting well-being.
Davern and O’Donnell has stated, “Stigma is a socially
constructed process that occurs whereby a person
possesses an ‘attribute that is deeply discrediting’ and
results in discrimination and social devaluation.”7
People with acne perceive greater stigmatization
related to their skin than people without acne,
and their perceptions are often true. Research has
demonstrated that people without acne perceive those
with acne as unattractive, and anticipate experiencing
shame upon developing the condition themselves.
This experience, but also anticipation and/or inter-
nalization of stigma, is associated with increased
psychological distress. Acne is a visible distinction
and even if people hide their condition, they still
anticipate being stigmatized if their secret were to
become known.7
One solution to the problem may come in the
form of C tactile (CT) neurons, or the hedonic system
of tactile afferent fibers, which can add specificity to
emotional and social communication, particularly
for feelings of desire. Touch experts speculate their
functional role may be to enhance the “sensual

Want more from

this author?
For “Evoking Emotion: Epidermal
Evolution,” check out page 50
in your May 2020 edition.

Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 19

CT2101_Mrkt_Steventon_fcx.indd 19 12/15/20 5:37 PM

 Deeper Than Skin
When looking at facial skin in the mirror, we experience either positive or negative emotions based on self-judgement of attractiveness.
salience” of tactile interactions.8 Thus, trans-
forming excoriation into soothing touch may
present a strategy to help women with mild acne
to self-soothe and enhance their well-being.
Conclusion
The brain is wired to focus on imperfections
to correct and amend them but picking and
scratching can cause more harm than good.
“Picker’s acne,” for example, results in scabs and
scars that often leave the person in even more
distress. Yet, individuals continue this behavior
to relieve the mind and alleviate feelings of
disgust; or due in part to serotonin dysregulation
and oxytocin release. Furthermore, self-induced
and externally perpetuated judgments drive
lower self-esteem and degrade well-being. This
underlines the need for better solutions to treat
acne—both physically and emotionally.
References
1. Mueller, S.M., et al. (Jan 21, 2017). Functional magnetic
resonance imaging in dermatology: The skin, the brain and
the invisible. Experi Dermatol 26(10) 845–853. Available at:
https://doi.org/10.1111/exd.13305
20 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2101_Mrkt_Steventon_fcx.indd 20
2. Querleux, B., et al. (Oct 10, 2008). Neural basis of sensitive
skin: an fMRI study. Skin Res & Tech 14(4) 454-461. Avail-
able at: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0846.2008.00312.x
3. Feusner, J.D., Hembacher, E. and Phillips, K.A. (2009). The
mouse who couldn’t stop washing: pathologic grooming
in animals and humans. CNS Spectrums 14(9) 503-513.
Available at: https://doi.org/10.1017/s1092852900023567
4. Schienle, A., Übel, S. and Wabnegger, A. (2018). Visual
symptom provocation in skin picking disorder: an fMRI
study. Brain Imaging and Behavior 12(5) 1504-1512. Avail-
able at: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11682-017-9792-x
5. Mashayekhi Goyonlo, V., Sardabi, M. S., Tavalaei, A.
M., Khoshnevisan, Z. and Razmara, M. (Jun 12, 2020).
Cognitive behavioral therapy as an adjuvant therapy in acne
excoriée: a randomized controlled clinical trial. J Dermatolog
Treat, 1–7. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1080/09546634.
2020.1776207
6. Steventon, K., Ph.D. (Oct 1, 2020). All judgements aside:
acne perception and care. Cosme & Toilet 135(9) DM7-
DM10. Available at: https://cosmeticsandtoiletries.texterity.
com/cosmeticsandtoiletries/october_2020/MobilePage-
dReplica.action?pm=2&folio=DM7#pg31
7. Davern, J. and O’Donnell, A.T. (Sep 28, 2018). Stigma
predicts health-related quality of life impairment, psychologi-
cal distress, and somatic symptoms in acne sufferers. PloS
One 13(9). Available at: https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.
pone.0205009
8. Kirsch, L. P., et al. (2018). Reading the mind in the
touch: Neurophysiological specificity in the communica-
tion of emotions by touch. Neuropsychologia 116(Pt
A) 136-149. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.
neuropsychologia.2017.05.024
12/15/20 5:37 PM
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 Research | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• This article offers a commentary
supporting the notion of bacteriophages,
or phages, in skin care therapeutics.

• It provides their brief evolutionary history,

considers their utility as antimicrobial
alternatives, and posits their application in
modern skin care.

Peer-reviewed

Viral Skin
Defense Phage Therapy, A Commentary
Paul Lawrence, Ph.D., Brianna Scacchi and Joseph Ceccoli
Biocogent LLC, Stony Brook, NY

facebook.com/CandTmagazineReproduction in Cosmetics
English or any& Toiletries
other language of @cosmeticsandtoiletries
22 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
© 2020 Allured Business Media.

CT2101_Rsrch_Lawrence_DM.indd 22 12/21/20 12:24 PM

 T he paths of two different
fields of research have begun
to converge: the study of the
skin microbiome, and bacte-
riophages as an alternative to
antibiotics to combat bacterial
pathogens. Several bacteria are natural residents
on the human skin, some of which contribute to its
health and others that can have deleterious effects.
It is often when an imbalance in species occurs that
undesirable skin conditions follow.
Naturally occurring bacteriophages that uniquely
so-called phage therapy. For instance, Cutibacte-
rium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes)
is understood to contribute to Acne vulgaris. A
cluster of bacteriophages exists that only attacks
and replicates inside of this particular bacterial
species, which culminates in the destruction of the
bacteria. Therefore, a topical formulation containing
bacteriophages against C. acnes could represent
a new skin care agent to combat acne. Similarly,
this approach could be replicated with many other
resident microbes on the skin that are responsible
for a number of skin diseases and conditions.
target specific bacterial species (see Table 1) This article offers a commentary in support of
present a tool that could be applied to modulate bacteriophages, or phages, in skin care therapeu-
the growth of certain populations of bacteria—i.e., tics. It provides their brief evolutionary history,

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2021 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 23

CT2101_Rsrch_Lawrence_DM.indd 23 12/21/20 12:24 PM

 Viral Skin Defense

Phage therapy applied to skin care

represents a novel advancement in
approaches to address a variety of skin
diseases and conditions.

considers their utility as antimicrobial alterna-
tives, and posits their application in modern
skin care.
Bacteriophages
Viruses that target bacteria are collectively
called bacteriophages and represent the largest
domain of life on Earth. These microorganisms
are ancient and have kept numerous bacterial
species in check probably since the emergence
of microbial life.
For reasons yet to be fully understood,
as life evolved, viruses targeting multicel-
lular organisms developed ribonucleic acid
(RNA)-based genomes with cylindrical and
icosahedral shaped structures. In contrast,
viruses that attack bacteria predominantly have
deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA)-based genomes
with structures that resemble the lunar lander
modules (see Figure 1). 1
This schism in the shape and genetic content
of viruses reinforces why bacteriophages are
uniquely safe as potential antibacterial thera-
peutics: millions of years of evolution have
made them so significantly different from mul-
ticellular life that they can no longer present a
health threat to humans, animals or plants—but
they are very much a predator to bacterial life.1, 2

The global bacteriophage market is expected History and Production

to expand at a CAGR of 3.6% from 2020 to In the time before DNA and RNA had been
2025 to reach US $205.9 million. characterized, and the first viruses were identi-
fied, scientists experimented with filterable
substances that appeared to have a beneficial
impact on people afflicted with certain bacterial
Source: MarketWatch diseases. The term filterable substances was used
to refer to disease-causing agents that could not
be filtered from solutions due to their extremely
small size—unlike
Table 1. Bacteriophages and Their Target Bacteria bacteria that
could be removed
from solutions via
Virus Family Bacteriophage Bacteria Associated Skin Diseases 0.2-micron por-
celain filters. This
Siphoviridae Phage PA6 C. acnes Acne vulgaris approach allowed
Myoviridae Phage M4 P. aeruginosa Ecthyma gangrenosum Russian biologist
Dmitri Ivanovsky
Severe atopic dermatitis, to experimentally
Siphoviridae Phage φ80α S. aureus
Furunculosis demonstrate in
Phage A25 1892 that there
Siphoviridae S. pyogenes Cellulitis, Impetigo, Gangrene were microscopic
(12204)
Corynebacterium pathogens much
Siphoviridae Phage BFK20 Erythrasma, Pitted keratolysis smaller than bacte-
species
ria. As it turns out,
many of the agents

24 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_Rsrch_Lawrence_DM.indd 24 12/21/20 12:24 PM

 Utilizing phage therapy, the skin care industry has been investigating how to modulate levels of undesirable residents of the normal
skin microbiota.

found in these
substances were
in fact viruses.3
One of the
early pioneers
who used viruses
to replicate inside
of bacteria as
antimicrobi-
als was the
French-Canadian
scientist Felix
d’Herelle, Ph.D.
Indeed, he
was one of the
co-discoverers of
bacteriophages
in 1917 and did
Arrows indicate the directional flow of double-stranded DNA injected across the cell wall of the
much to advance bacterium into the bacterial cytoplasm post-attachment.
the field of
applied micro- Figure 1. Structural depiction of Siphoviridae bacteriophage family
biology with his targeted to C. acnes
experiments into

Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 25

CT2101_Rsrch_Lawrence_DM.indd 25 12/21/20 12:25 PM

 Viral Skin Defense

a)

b)

Schematic of the C. acnes phage production and downstream qualification process (a); and plot of the efficacy at eliminating planktonic
cultures of C. acnes with three different single preps of different phages targeted to C. acnes (b); Note: the average absorbance of an
uninoculated preparation of C. acnes was 0.70.

Figure 2. Efficacy of a bacteriophage preparation at eliminating C. acnes

DM7 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_Rsrch_Lawrence_DM.indd 26 12/21/20 12:25 PM

 Most virologists recommend a minimum of
three distinct phages in each product to
prevent the development of resistance.
what has become known as phage therapy.4
d’Herelle developed a procedure for the prop-
agation and purification of bacteriophages, the
fundamentals of which are still practiced today.
First, nutrient-rich media is used to cultivate
the bacterial species of interest, whose growth
causes the media to become turbid.
Subsequently, the bacterial culture is inoculated
with bacteriophages known to target and repli-
cate inside of that particular species of bacteria.
As the bacteriophages replicate through their
lytic cycle, the bacteria are destroyed and the
turbid media becomes translucent. Finally,
the liquid media is filtered to retain the result-
ing bacterial debris but not the filterable
bacteriophages.
Upon the discovery of penicillin and other
antibiotics, phage therapy was largely aban-
doned in the Western world. However, it became
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Rsrch_Lawrence_DM.indd 27
the antimicrobial agent of choice for the former
Soviet Union, where it continues to be employed
to this day. With the rising threat of antibiotic-
resistant bacteria, the Western world has taken
a fresh look at phage therapy as an alternative
to antibiotics.
Phage Therapy Today
Enter the modern era, with a global catastro-
phe brewing thanks to the advent and increasing
incidence of antibiotic-resistant bacteria.5-7
Multiple classes of antibiotics are proving inef-
fective in treating bacterial pathogens that were
once nullified as a public health threat, and the
pace of antibiotic research and development has
slowed to a crawl.
Indeed, from the 1940s to the 1960s, approxi-
mately 20 classes of antibiotics were developed
and implemented for medical use.8 In the
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 Viral Skin Defense

intervening time, one-tenth as many have been
produced. Therefore, it has become imperative
that alternatives to traditional antibiotics be
generated, which has led Western scientists to
re-examine the bacteriophage approach.
Beginning in the 1990s, scientists in public
and private institutions dusted off the scientific
reports of d’Herelle and others and initiated
new investigations into the utility of this special
group of viruses.9-13 An outbreak of Escherichia

a)

b)

Diagram of the 96-well array to evaluate efficacy (minimum biofilm eradication concentration or MBEC) (a); and plot of the efficacy at
eliminating biofilms of C. acnes (b); Note: the average absorbance of an uninoculated preparation of C. acnes was 0.65.

Figure 3. Efficacy of a bacteriophage preparation at eliminating a C. acnes biofilm

DM9 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_Rsrch_Lawrence_DM.indd 28 12/21/20 12:25 PM

 Bacteriophages are uniquely safe as potential antibacterial therapeutics. Thanks to millions of years of evolution, they no longer present
a health threat to humans, animals or plants.
coli contamination on vegetables in the early
2000s caused several Taco Bell locations to close
after they received tainted lettuce and toma-
toes.14 Such outbreaks of food-borne illnesses
increased pressure on U.S. health officials to
streamline the development and implementation
of phage-based antimicrobial sprays, which had
already shown, in investigational studies,15, 16 the
potential to protect against such contamination.
This added to the urgency to identify a new
approach to ensure foods were protected against
potential bacterial contamination.
A similar approach has been adopted
by some medical facilities to prevent
hospital-acquired Staphylococcus aureus
infections—specifically, via the application of a
nebulized phage cocktail containing S. aureus-
targeted phage diluted to a concentration of 4 ×
109 plaque-forming units per milliliter in 1%
detergent and water.17 Some groups also have
considered phages as a form of probiotic to be
consumed for the modulation of microbiota
found in the human and animal gut.1, 18 How-
ever, this approach necessitates finding a phage
that is structurally stable in the pH extremes of
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Rsrch_Lawrence_DM.indd 29
the digestive tract, which can be a limiting fac-
tor. This has not stopped groups from marketing
probiotic supplements that can be purchased
through online shopping websites, though
the claimed benefits are purely speculative at
this point.
The pharmaceutical industry has expended
considerable effort to extrapolate from the
experiences of Russian scientists and imple-
ment systemic phage treatments for a variety of
bacterial infections. For example, the historic
Eliava Institute in the former Soviet republic
of Georgia has been collaborating with a
European research group toward the develop-
ment of a quality-controlled method to produce
phage treatments for human clinical trials in
burn victims.19
Such efforts are important since the efficacy
of a phage cocktail will require stringent checks
of the relative cytotoxicity, pyrogenicity and pH
stability of the phages. These early successes
with small-scale production schemes have been
augmented in recent years with larger-scale,
continuous-flow methods for therapeutic
phage production.20
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 Viral Skin Defense
Phage Therapy in Skin Care
With recent advances in the collective
understanding of both the skin microbiome
and application of phage therapy, the skin care
industry has been actively investigating how
to modulate levels of undesirable residents of
the normal skin microbiota, such as C. acnes,
P. aeruginosa and S. aureus, using corresponding
bacteriophages.21-24 A cursory search of publicly
accessible scientific databases retrieves multiple
publications that detail extensive research on
applying phage therapy as a topical solution
to skin diseases and disorders as well as to
skin care.25-31 Since Acne vulgaris is the most
widespread skin condition worldwide and is
manifested by bacteria, it represents an attrac-
tive target for topical phage-based therapies. As
previously stated, the bacteria responsible for
this pathology is C. acnes, which has a uniquely
limited genetic diversity. This suggests that only
a small number of distinct C. acnes-specific
phages would be necessary for a topical cock-
tail to down-modulate the few variants of the
bacteria that exist on the skin.
The science suggests that in order for
phage therapies to be effective and lasting
approaches for the cosmetics and pharmaceuti-
cal industries, multi-phage mixtures will be
required.32, 33 In short, a topical solution with a
single, genetically distinct phage will likely fail
due to the likelihood of the targeted bacterial
population evolving resistance to it. To this end,
most virologists recommend a minimum of
three genetically distinct phages to be infused
in each product to prevent the development
of resistance.
The phages that attack and lyse C. acnes
belong to the Siphoviridae family of viruses,
which are structurally characterized, as
described earlier, by an icosahedral head that
houses the double-stranded DNA genome and
a long non-contractile tail (see Figure 1).1 The
present authors have developed a mixture of
three phagesa and tested its efficacy in eliminat-
ing both planktonic C. acnes bacterial cultures
(see Figure 2
Figure 2) and bacterial biofilms (see
Figure 3).
Figure 3
In both cases, a considerable reduction in
levels of C. acnes was noted post-inoculation
with a single phage prep. Each individual phage
a
The DermaPhage line of skin care by Biocogent LLC is
currently under development.
DM11 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2101_Rsrch_Lawrence_DM.indd 30
prep has also been applied in a dilution series to
monolayer cultures of human keratinocytes and
fibroblasts, which resulted in zero cytotoxicity
(data not shown). Furthermore, while C. acnes
is a Gram-positive bacteria with low levels of
lipopolysaccharide, relative to their Gram-
negative counterparts, endotoxin tests have
been performed on the phage preps from lysed
bacteria and shown negligible amounts (data
not shown). Cumulatively, these early successes
suggest future potential.
The second phase of product developmenta
will involve building an array of unique
phages for different skin bacteria targets. It is
anticipated that with multiple phages in each
solution, the reductions in planktonic bacteria
and bacterial biofilms will be elevated. As some
companies are already marketing phage topical
sprays to the U.S. military, it is likely that phage-
based products will soon become available for
the cosmetic care consumer.
Conclusions
All in all, phage therapy applied to skin care
represents a novel advancement in approaches
to address a variety of skin diseases and condi-
tions. Indeed, bacteriophages are remarkably
safe and effective against a multitude of
bacterial infections.13, 32 Furthermore, given
that there is already an FDA-approved phage-
based food spray as a countermeasure to food
contamination, consumption of phages is of
no concern.15, 16
And, as mentioned before, millions of years
of evolution have separated humans from bac-
teria and their associated virus pathogens such
that phages cannot infect us. One such example
is the heavily publicized 2017 recovery of Tom
Patterson, Ph.D., from near death at the hands
of a multi-drug resistant form of Acinetobacter
baumannii via a cocktail of phages.13 This is a
clear demonstration of the power of a revived
therapy from a century ago.
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(2011). Phage treatment of human infections. Bacterio-
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Novel antibacterials: Alternatives to traditional antibiotics.
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7. Medina, E. and Pieper, D.H. (2016). Tackling threats and
future problems of multidrug-resistant bacteria. Curr Top
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8. Mohr, K.I. (2016). History of antibiotics research. Curr Top
Microbiol Immunol 398 237-272.
9. Gordillo Altamirano, F.L. and Barr, J.J. (2019). Phage
therapy in the postantibiotic era. Clin Microbiol Rev 32.
10. Kortright, K.E., Chan, B.K., Koff, J.L. and Turner, P.E.
(2019). Phage therapy: A renewed approach to combat
antibiotic-resistant bacteria. Cell Host Microbe 25 219-232.
11. Moelling, K., Broecker, F. and Willy C. (2018). A wake-up
call: We need phage therapy now. Viruses 10.
12. Lin, D.M., Koskella, B. and Lin, H.C. (2017). Phage therapy:
An alternative to antibiotics in the age of multi-drug resis-
tance. World J Gastrointest Pharmacol Ther 8 162-173.
13. Schmidt, C. (2019). Phage therapy's latest makeover. Nat
Biotechnol 37 581-586.
14. Sodha, S.V., Lynch, M., ... Braden, C., et al. (2011).
Multistate outbreak of Escherichia coli O157:H7 infections
associated with a national fast-food chain, 2006: A study
incorporating epidemiological and food source traceback
results. Epidemiol Infect 139 309-16.
15. Abuladze, T., Li, M., Menetrez, M.Y., Dean, T., Senecal, A.
and Sulakvelidze, A. (2008). Bacteriophages reduce experi-
mental contamination of hard surfaces, tomato, spinach,
broccoli and ground beef by Escherichia coli O157:H7. Appl
Environ Microbiol 74 6230-8.
16. Wang, L., Qu, K., Li, X., Cao, Z., Wang, X., Li, Z., Song,
Y. and Xu, Y. (2017). Use of bacteriophages to control
Escherichia coli O157:H7 in domestic ruminants, meat
products, and fruits and vegetables. Foodborne Pathog Dis
14 483-493.
17. D'Accolti, M., Soffritti, I., Lanzoni, L., Bisi, M., Volta, A.,
Mazzacane, S. and Caselli, E. (2019). Effective elimination of
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bacteriophage-probiotic sanitation strategy: A monocentric
study. Microb Biotechnol 12 742-751.
18. Hosseindoust, A., Lee, S.H., Choi, Y.H., Kim, M.J., Lee,
J.H., Kwon, I.K. and Chae, B.J. (2017). Bacteriophage
cocktail and multi-strain probiotics in the feed for weanling
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20. Mancuso, F., Shi, J. and Malik, D.J. (2018). High throughput
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23. Chhibber, S., Shukla, A. and Kaur, S. (2017). Transfersomal
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24. Vieira, A., Silva, Y.J., Cunha, A., Gomes, N.C., Ackermann,
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 Research | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• Coco-glucoside is naturally derived from
plant sugars and fatty alcohols, and has
become increasingly popular as a foaming
and cleansing agent in formulations due to
its natural properties.

• In this column, the creation, composition

and application of coco-glucoside are
examined for proper formulating in
personal care products, compared with
other anionic surfactants.

F aming for
F rmulators:
C
Coco-glucoside

oco-glucoside is a nonionic, naturally

derived surfactant in the alkyl poly-
Prashant Bahadur, Ph.D. and glucoside (APG) family. Derived from
Saroja Narasimhan, Ph.D. plant sugars and fatty alcohols, it is
very mild compared to traditional
Johnson & Johnson, Skillman, NJ
anionic surfactants. It has become a
popular surfactant, acting as a foaming, cleansing, conditioning and
viscosity-building agent in liquid cleansers and shampoos. It is also
biodegradable and green, with structural similarities to the glycolip-
ids and other biological surfactants.1, 2

Reproduction in English or any other language of

26 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
© 2021 Allured Business Media.

CT2011_Research_Narasimhan_fcx.indd 26 12/15/20 5:57 PM

 Chemical
Structure
Coco-glucoside has a
chemical structure con-
sisting of a hydrophilic
monomeric or oligo-
meric glucoside
head group linked
to a hydrophobic
C12 alkyl tail
group, as shown
in Figure 1;1;
where n denotes
the degree of
polymerization.
This degree is very Figure 1. Chemical structure of coco-
low, ~1-2; thus, these glucoside; R = alkyl chain residue of fatty
materials are referred alcohols derived from coconut acid
to as oligomers—olig being
Greek for "few" or "little."
Coco-glucoside used in
personal care products is a
mixture of glucosides, which The hand wash market is anticipated to grow
arises due to the variability globally at a rising CAGR of 11.2% during the
in stereochemical orienta- period of 2020 to 2026.
tions of the glucose moieties,
polydispersity of oligo-
glucoside and varying alkyl
chain lengths.3 Source: ResearchandMarkets

Chemistry and
Properties
Coco-glucoside is pro-
duced by combining glucose
with fatty alcohol from
coconut oil feedstock in the
presence of acid catalysts at Podcast
elevated temperatures.4-6 The
fatty alcohol used for syn-
thesis can be obtained either
from synthetic (petrochemi-
cal) or natural sources (fats and oils). Due to
their renewable nature, fatty alcohol blends from
natural resources are preferred to build up the
hydrophobic part of the coco-glucoside molecule.
The hydrophilic part is derived from both poly-
meric and monomeric carbohydrates. Polymeric
carbohydrates include starch or glucose syrups,
while monomeric carbohydrates can be any of the
various forms in which glucose is available, such
as anhydrous D-glucose, D-glucose monohydrate
(dextrose) or highly degraded glucose syrup.1, 3

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 Foaming for Formulators
With its foaming profile, biodegradability,
mildness and compatibility with other
surfactants, coco-glucoside has become
one of the more commonly used
co-surfactants in personal care.
Coco-glucoside synthesis from polymeric
carbohydrates requires higher reaction tem-
peratures to achieve efficient depolymerization
and conversion to the glucosides. This process
results in degradative side reactions generating
undesirable by-products and colored impurities.
On the other hand, coco-glucoside synthesized
from monomeric carbohydrates such as glucose
can be condensed with fatty alcohols at lower
temperatures, resulting in a cleaner and higher
quality grade coco-glucoside.1, 3
Coco-glucoside is a nonionic, amber, cloudy
viscous liquid (2,000 cps at 75°F; crystallizes at
< 60°F), with good water solubility due to its
hydroxyl groups. The carbon chain distribution
Figure 2. Manufacturing flowchart for APG;1 for coco-glucoside synthesis, fatty alcohols
derived from coconut oil are used.
28 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2011_Research_Narasimhan_fcx.indd 28
for coco-glucoside is usually between C8-14. The
cloudiness of the product is due to its magne-
sium oxide content (max. 500 ppm) and the pH
value at which it is supplied. The cloudiness dis-
appears when the pH value is adjusted below 7.
The product is usually supplied at 50-60%
active levels4-6 and a high alkaline pH, typically
around 12, making it self-preserving as-is.
It is stable in neutral and alkaline solu-
tions but unstable in strong acid solutions, in
which it hydrolyzes to sugar and fatty alcohol
moieties. Since the sugar unit is more water-
soluble, coco-glucoside is more hydrophilic
than its polyoxyethylene-based surfactant
counterparts (e.g., polysorbates). It has an
12/15/20 5:57 PM
 excellent toxicological profile,
is biodegradable and has a
high tolerance to electrolytes
since it is synthesized from
renewable raw materials.
It exemplifies good synergy
with anionic surfactants and
is compatible with cationics.

Two Process
Variants
The first alkyl-glucoside
was synthesized in a
laboratory by Emil Fischer
in 1893;7 the synthesis
of coco-glucoside by the
namesake Fisher Process
leads to a complex isomer
and oligomer mixtures using
Figure 3. Synthesis of monomeric and oligomeric coco-
glucoside from direct acid-catalyzed acetalization of glucose
two process variants—direct
synthesis and the two-step in excess coconut alcohol and removal of water (under
transacetalization process vacuum at ~100°C)
(see Figure 2).
2 1, 3, 8-11

In direct synthesis, the

carbohydrate reacts directly with an excess
of coconut alcohol in the presence of an acid
catalyst to form coco-glucoside. The glucose
used is often dried before the actual reaction to
remove the crystal-water from glucose monohy-
drate to minimize side reactions that take place
in the presence of water. Furthermore, monomeric
solid glucose types are used as fine particle solids
along with a reducing agent and an acid catalyst. The
reducing agent minimizes colored by-products by
preventing any oxidative degradation reactions. This
process is simpler and cheaper from an equipment

Coco-glucoside generates a stable foam comparable to

conventional anionic surfactants.

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 Foaming for Formulators

Figure 4. Coco-glucoside synthesis using two-step transacetalization

point of view, and results in coco-glucoside with
an improved odor profile. The ratio of glucose
to coconut alcohol is monitored to ensure
that the target degree of polymerization range
is achieved.
In the transacetalization process, first, the
carbohydrate comprised of starch, dextrose
syrup or D-glucose reacts with short-chain alco-
hol, for example, n-butanol or propylene glycol
at high temperatures (~100°C) in the presence
of a strong acid catalyst (see Figure 3).
3 surfactants, coco-glucoside has become one
In the second step, the short-chain alkyl
glycoside is transacetalized with an excess of
relatively long-chain alcohol, such as coconut
alcohol and an acid catalyst to form coco-
glucoside. The excess short-chain alcohol and
water are removed via vacuum distillation. The
degree of polymerization of the coco-glucoside
is governed by the ratio of C12 fatty alcohol to
short-chain alcohol. The two-step route can uti-
lize any of the glucose feedstocks but requires
additional equipment to recover the short-chain
alcohol for re-use (see Figure 4).
4 from monomeric carbohydrates condensed
Application
Coco-glucoside generates a stable foam com-
parable to conventional anionic surfactants,
making it a preferred co-surfactant in bubble
baths, shower gels, shampoos, etc. It does not
contain impurities such as ethylene oxide or
1,4-dioxane, which also makes it suitable for
baby products.
Coco-glucoside forms rodlet-like mixed
micelles with anionics, which helps to build
viscosity and improve the creaminess of the
lather. In combination with quaternary ammo-
nium compounds, coco-glucoside helps to
improve wet combability in hair care products.
It can also be used as a co-emulsifier in leave-on
products to disperse lipophilic ingredients in
the formula.
With its foaming profile, ready biodegrad-
ability, mildness and compatibility with other
of the more commonly used co-surfactants in
personal care.
Conclusion
As described herein, two process variants
can be used to create coco-glucoside. It may
be synthesized from polymeric carbohydrates,
which requires higher reaction temperatures
that can result in degradative side reactions,
undesirable by-products and color impurities. It
may also be synthesized at lower temperatures
with fatty alcohols, which typically results in
a higher-grade coco-glucoside. Using either
of the two processes, it is plausible to create
an ingredient for an array of personal care
products featuring cleansing, conditioning and
foaming properties.
Furthermore, as noted, coco-glucoside has
a milder composition compared with other
anionic surfactants, making it appropriate
for baby care products or consumers seeking

30 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2011_Research_Narasimhan_fcx.indd 30 12/15/20 5:57 PM

 Coco-glucoside is very
mild compared with
traditional anionic
surfactants.

natural products and ingredients that are not perceived

as “harsh.” Finally, due to its composition and formula-
tion benefits, coco-glucoside is becoming an increasingly
popular choice for formulators.

References

1. Hill, K., von Rybinski, W. and Stoll, G. (1997). Alkyl Polyglycosides: Tech-
nology, Properties and Applications. VCH Publishers, Inc. New York.
2. Balzer, D. (1993, Dec 1). Cloud point phenomena in the phase behavior
of alkyl polyglucosides in water. Langmuir 9(12) 3375-3384.
3. Balzer, D. and Lüders, H. (2000). Nonionic surfactants: Alkyl polygluco-
sides. Surfactant Science Series 91 Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York.
4. The Dow Chemical Company. (Accessed 2020, Dec 15). Technical
data sheet: EcoSense 919 Surfactant. Available at: https://www.dow.
com/content/dam/dcc/documents/en-us/productdatasheet/324/324-
00595-01-ecosense-919-surfactant.pdf?iframe=true
5. LG Household & Healthcare. (Accessed 2020, Dec 15). Elotant Milcoside
301V2: Material safety data sheet. Available at: https://www.kalekimya.
com/admin/msds/1417089433_NGHS_-_Elotant_Milcoside_301V2.pdf
6. BASF Care Creations. (Accessed 2020, Dec 15). Product datasheet:
Plantacare 818 UP. Available at: https://e-applications.basf-ag.de/data/
basf-pcan/pds2/pds2-web.nsf/D2A40CF69E17C275C1257657004197
1E/$File/PLANTACARE_r__818_UP_E.pdf
7. Fischer, E. (1893. Oct-Dec). Mittheilungen: Ueber die glucoside
der alkohole. Euro J Inorgan Chem 26(3) 2400-2412. Available at:
https://chemistry-europe.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/
cber.18930260327
8. Kahsnitz, J., Schmidt, S. and Marl, A.O. (1995, Oct). Process for the
preparation of alkyl polyglycosides. Patent number 5,461,144.
9. Borsotti, G. and Pellizzon, T. (1994, Mar). Process for preparing alkyI
polyglycosides. Patent number EP0619318A1.
10. Behler, A., Biermann, M., Hill, K., Raths, H.C., Saint Victor, M.E. and
Uphues, G. (2001). Industrial surfactant synthesis. Reactions and
Synthesis in Surfactant Systems: Surfactant Science Series 100 1–44.
11. Fiume, M.M. (2011, Jun 3). Decyl glucoside and other alkyl glucosides.
Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Available at: http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/
default/files/119_draft_decylg.pdf

Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 31

CT2011_Research_Narasimhan_fcx.indd 31 12/15/20 5:57 PM

 Research | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• The present article reviews recent
developments in the oral care category,
including novel claims and ingredients.

• It also underlines where opportunities lie

in this segment intersecting function with
beauty and innovation.

facebook.com/CandTmagazine

Cosmetics & Toiletries

@cosmeticsandtoiletries

Oral Care
Oral Care
Refresh
Refresh Intersecting Function with Beauty and Innovation
Steve Pringle, Ph.D.
Takasago International Corp., Rockleigh, NJ USA

Reproduction in English or any other language of

32 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com language of allall oror part
Reproduction in English or any other part of
of this
this article
article isis strictly
strictly prohibited.
prohibited. © 2021 Allured Business 136, No. 1 | January 2021
Vol.Media.
© 2020 Allured Business Media.

CT2101_Research_Pringle_fcx.indd 32 12/15/20 6:03 PM

 T he world around
us has changed
dramatically over the
past nine months. In
many personal care
categories, we have
seen a shift in consumer priorities. For some
segments, and in some regions, cost has
become a higher priority with consumers;
in others, there is a greater focus on added
functionality, driven by a need for at-home
personal care. However, when we look at
the world of oral care, it seems as though
little has changed. Functionality is not a new
proposition. It has been a core product value
for some time. A closer examination, however,
reveals a different story.
Oral care is a strange beast. Consumers
generally recognize the importance of a regular
oral care routine in their lives—no one wants
a dental check-up to end with a revelation that
major work needs to be done. There’s also strong
awareness that they need to brush regularly to help
prevent cavities, and that poor oral hygiene can lead to
other health issues.
This strong link has, over
the last few decades, driven
significant developments in

the functional capabilities of the

category. Besides well-established
functional ingredients such as surfactants,
fluoride, etc., ingredients have emerged to
address sensitivity and bacteria management,
which have become established norms for the
consumer. This makes oral care unique in the per-
sonal care world in that it delivers a multitude
of positive health benefits and these
health benefits are the primary
connection to the
consumer.

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 Oral Care Refresh
Beauty has inspired larger shifts in oral care
by prompting formulas and concepts that
position oral care as 'beautifying'
rather than simply 'functional.'
So what’s next for oral care? While other
categories have sought to create emotional
connections with consumers, in this area, oral
care lags behind. Standing in the oral care aisle
at the supermarket reveals a huge variety of
offerings to the consumer but the majority of
these differ simply in their functionalities, rang-
ing from anti-cavity and sensitive tooth care, to
antibacterial and various combinations thereof.
The present article reviews recent develop-
ments in the oral care category, including novel
claims and ingredients. It also underlines where
opportunities lie in this segment intersecting
function with beauty and innovation.
Oral Care Market
Similar to other personal care categories,
oral care comprises different product formats,
with toothpaste and mouthwash dominating
the category in value (see Figure 1).
1 While a
relatively small number of multinational brands
has the largest market share, there appears to be
plenty of space for smaller brands to differenti-
ate themselves and connect with consumers.
A product’s ability to secure unique position-
ing traditionally relies heavily on its functional
claims. Figure 2 shows the prevalence of various
claims currently made for oral care products.
Tooth fortification with vitamins or minerals,
primarily fluoride, continues to be the top
The global oral care and hygiene market is
expected to reach US $62.2 billion by 2025,
increasing at a CAGR of 4.6% from 2018
to 2025.
Source: Data Bridge Market
Research
DM13 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2101_Research_Pringle_fcx.indd 34
claim. This is based on a wealth of scientific
evidence linking the benefits of fluoride to the
reduction of dental caries—which has strong
consumer recognition.
Tooth-fortifying Claim
Clinical efficacy claims for oral care have
been based on the success of stannous fluoride
(SnF2), which was the active ingredient in the
original Cresta brand toothpaste. Other fluoride
actives became generally available in the 1960s,
such as sodium monofluorophosphate (SMFP),
which delivers its activity by hydrolyzing in
saliva to release free fluoride ions. Since the
development of fluoride-compatible silica
systems in the early 1980s, most formulations
deliver fluoride from one of four clinically
proven fluoride salts: sodium fluoride, stannous
fluoride, SMPF and amine fluoride.
Breath-freshening,
Sensitivity and
Antibacterial Claims
Besides tooth fortification, other functional
claims are prevalent. These include breath-
freshening—linking a clean, fresh feeling with a
sense of cleaning efficacy, as well as sensitivity
and antibacterial claims.
Sensitivity is an interesting area. It has
become an established need for an increasing
number of consumers. Dentine hypersensitivity
is the sensation felt when the nerves inside the
teeth become exposed. This can vary from irrita-
tion to intense pain.
Different approaches have been taken to
solutions for dentine hypersensitivity. These
range from the use of potassium salts such
as potassium nitrate, which reduces the
transmission of pain by directly blocking
nerve impulses,1 to precipitation technologies
a
Crest is a Procter & Gamble brand.
12/15/20 6:03 PM
 Oral care comprises different product formats, with toothpaste and mouthwash dominating the category in value.

using actives such as

arginine and calcium
carbonate, strontium
acetate, strontium
chloride and hydroxy-
apatite (HAP).
Precipitation tech-
nologies aim to block
the exposed dentinal
tubules with mineral
precipitates that pack
into these openings.

Tooth
Whitening
Claim
Tooth whiten-
Figure 1. Global oral care sales and CAGR by category ($M) in 2019;
Source: Euromonitor
ing appears to
offer no observable
health benefit but
consumers seem
to associate white
teeth with younger,
healthier teeth.
Whitening effects are
typically achieved
through toothpaste
using a mild abrasive
such as zeolites and
silicates. Rather than
actually whitening
teeth, the abrasive
scours surface stains
to remove them.
Another approach is
to add ingredients
such as hydrogen
peroxide to an oral
care formulation. Note
that this approach
is not permitted in Figure 2. Oral care product claims (%) 2015-2019; Source: Mintel GNPD
some regions.

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 Oral Care Refresh

Figure 3. Of the more than 15,000 new toothpastes launched globally from 2015-
2020, more than 87% used mint as their core flavor profile.

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CT2101_Research_Pringle_fcx.indd 36 12/15/20 6:03 PM

 One challenge to delivering a clean and
fresh feeling is the actives in the oral care
base, which rarely taste good. Perhaps
this is an opportunity.
The desire to have visibly cleaner and
brighter—and even cleaner-feeling—teeth is
becoming more important. This is reinforced
by the increased number of global oral care
launches featuring whitening claims. In 2018,
for example, Mintel GNPD reported 44% of new
launches in both Chile and South Korea made
whitening claims. Hungary and the UK saw 39%
and 33%, respectively.
The growth of whitening claims is linked
heavily to the anti-aging trend in other personal
care categories. In relation, in recent years,
brands have actively explored how to deliver
whitening benefits without adding ingredients
perceived as harsh to the consumer. Ingredients
such as charcoal and botanicals are added for
their perceived whitening benefits; charcoal
whitening stripsb offer one example in yet
another product form.
Creating a more high-tech perception of
whitening are products such as White by Night
with liquid calciumc. Or, Max White Expert
b
Teeth Whitening Strips is a product of My White Secret.
c
White by Night is a product of Perlweiss.
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Research_Pringle_fcx.indd 37
Completed with calcium pyrophosphate to clean
and polish teeth; tetrasodium pyrophosphate
to protect teeth against stain build-up; silica to
clean and polish teeth; and hydrogen peroxide
to remove intrinsic and extrinsic stains and
whiten teeth.
It is interesting to note that whitening
products other than toothpastes have shown
some decline in the market. This may be due to
whitening being achievable through brushing,
rendering the need for an additional product
unnecessary. Or perhaps it is the user experi-
ence, as whitening products can be challenging
to use or unpleasant to taste. Efficacy may be
a factor as well if whitening products have not
provided the desired results. This could be an
opportunity for further product development
and innovation.
Flavor in Oral Care
One of the difficulties in differentiating oral
care products is the delivery of flavor. In most
d
Max White Expert Complete is a product of the Colgate-
Palmolive Company.
| DM16
12/15/20 6:04 PM
 Oral Care Refresh
other personal care categories, consumers want
to experience a wide range of flavors or fra-
grances. However, one look at the most popular
flavors and fragrances for oral care reveals that
mint continues to be king. According to Mintel’s
GNPD, from October 2015 to October 2020,
more than 15,000 new toothpaste products
launched globally, with more than 87% using
mint as their core flavor profile (see Figure 3).
3 Looking at some of the fringe flavors offered,
This number of launches has most certainly
encouraged innovation, albeit not when it
Source: Takasago Strategic Consumer Research on Oral Care and
Sensates Technology
Figure 4. Word cloud revealing how brushing teeth makes
consumers feel and strong connections to mint flavor
Figure 5. The taste experience combines
interactions between olfaction (yellow), gustatory
(red) and trigeminal nerve (blue) functions
DM17 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2101_Research_Pringle_fcx.indd 38
comes to flavor. There are some subtle regional
differences. In Europe and the Americas, mint
definitely rules and there is little deviation from
this in most adult toothpastes or mouthwash.
Children appear to have all of the fun, with
fruity and fantasy flavors but as they grow older,
even they switch to mint or mint derivatives as
the core flavor.
again, Europe and the Americas tend to be
conservative, with variants based around main-
stream flavors from other similar
categories. Asia offers slightly more
diversity in its acceptance of fringe
flavors, with floral and herbal vari-
ants being developed.
To understand this narrow flavor
preference, consider why consumers
have traditionally used oral care
products and what they expect in
terms of product experience. Exten-
sive consumer research has revealed
that clean, fresh and refreshing
feelings are the major drivers of the
oral hygiene experience, and this is
strongly connected to a mint flavor
(see Figure 4).
4 One of the major
challenges in delivering that clean
and fresh feeling, however, is the oral
care product base—particularly the
active ingredients in it. These rarely
taste good and can even be unpalat-
able and off-putting to the consumer. Consider
any mouthwash that uses chlorohexidine as
the antibacterial active. While this ingredient
is highly effective at killing a broad range of
bacteria, its taste is unpleasant.
Perhaps this is a market opportunity, i.e.,
developing a functional ingredient for oral
care that is effective and also appeals to the
consumer. It might even offer customizable and
emotional experiences. From another direc-
tion, perhaps a flavor could deliver more than
just taste.
Biology of ‘Taste’
Important to this discussion is the differ-
entiation between taste and flavor. In simple
terms, when a consumer tastes something, this
experience comprises a combination of interac-
tions primarily through three pathways (see
Figure 5). The odor component, through the
Figure 5
olfactive function, makes up a majority of the
12/15/20 6:04 PM
 experience. In addition to this are significant and therefore sequestering the off-smelling
contributions from the gustatory system, includ- compounds, which are then removed. Flavor-
ing the tongue and taste buds, which allows one mediated technology can work in other ways,
to “taste” sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami by converting molecules through, for example,
characteristics. There is also interaction from a Michael addition reaction into a molecule
the trigeminal nerves in the face, which inter- that has a more acceptable odor. The advantage
pret heating, cooling, tingling, astringency, etc. of this approach is that even if the molecule
Layer over these pathways factors such as is not removed from the oral cavity, the odor
texture and the result is what one refers to as is pleasant enough that it does not impart an
simply taste or flavor. This multidimensional unpleasant experience for the user. Indeed,
interaction contributes to the clean, fresh and the results of clinical trials of this technolo-
refreshing feeling that consumers connect with gye presented during the 2012 International
a positive oral care experience. It is here, within Association of Dental Research have shown its
these extra dimensions, where flavor develop- ability to reduce malodor twice as effectively as
ment can play a crucial role. the control (p < 0.001) for fresher breath, lasting
up to 4 hr (see Figure 6).
6 2
Leveraging Flavor Systems Another area where further functionality
Flavor systems are currently used in two can be built into the flavor system is in bacteria
main ways to enhance the oral care experience. management. A good example of this is the
First, they cue consumers that a product is Listerine brandf of mouthwash products. The
working, e.g., by leaving the mouth with a clean, essential oil blend in these products gives them
fresh feeling; as a consequence, they also mask their characteristic taste, but also contributes
the otherwise unpleasant taste and texture of the significantly to the efficacy of the products. This
base and active ingredients used in a toothpaste blend has been shown to kill high levels of bac-
or mouthwash product. teria that are linked to oral hygiene issues and
These effects, when combined with active indeed, the active materials in the oils are used
ingredients, can give the consumer long-lasting in other areas such as animal feed to perform
fresh breath by neutralizing or deodorizing the similar bacteria management tasks.
oral cavity via the removal of the volatile sulfur f
Listerine is a Johnson & Johnson brand.
compounds (VSCs)
present. Unfortunately,
the active ingredients
that perform this task,
such as zinc salts and
other compounds, taste
unpleasant, so the flavor
has to work harder
to cover the off-taste
created. Some odor-neu-
tralizing and deodorizing
technologiese, however,
can perform this
neutralization of VSCs
from within the flavor
system, negating the
need for additional and
poor-tasting actives.
Typically, odor
neutralization actives
work by chelating VSCs
Figure 6. Morning breath suppression efficacy of odor-
e
Transatak is a neutralizing and deodorizing test activee
Takasago brand.

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 Oral Care Refresh
Functionalized flavor exhibits efficacy against “bad” bacteria by lowering their levels, in turn supporting positive oral cavity bacteria.
The author’s company has expanded this
approach to enhance the oral care experience
by functionalizing flavorg such that it builds
or enhances product efficacy through bacteria
management while maintaining a pleasant taste
experience. Although still in development, such
systemsg are showing positive results, in initial
research, for a microbiome approach to oral
health. They exhibit efficacy against “bad” bac-
teria by lowering their levels, in turn supporting
positive oral cavity bacteria.
Overall, the ability to deliver longer lasting,
fresh breath is not only important to signal the
efficacy of the product. It also is a key compo-
nent to the consumer’s well-being, to build their
self-confidence—especially now, as we’ve all
become closer to our own breath by wearing
masks in daily life.
Inspired by Beauty
Beyond functional effects (and besides tooth
whitening), the beauty industry has inspired
larger shifts in oral care by prompting for-
mulas and concepts that position oral care as
“beautifying” rather than simply “functional.”
One toothpaste, for example, includes cica to
moisturize and counteract mouth dryness to
prevent bad breath.3 Others incorporate hyal-
uronic acid (HA)4 to “support healthy-looking
teeth and gums and promote overall enamel
health,” as one marketer explained. Indeed,
some research points to HA in oral care for its
anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects.5
g
Aromahygiene is a Takasago brand.
DM19 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2101_Research_Pringle_fcx.indd 40
Oral care also has adopted beauty-based
themes of empowerment and aligned products
to speak to consumer values. The eco-oral care
segment, for example, was once a niche part
of the market but now, according to Mintel,
38% of UK oral care users seek products with
eco packaging. Major players such as Colgate
have responded, entering this space with eco
and vegan claims around both packaging and
ingredients.
Refillable concepts were also once the
realm of indie brands but they have captured
consumers’ imaginations and seem poised to
become a more accessible option. Vegan offers
another value, potentially opening the door
for cruelty-free messaging on oral care. Other
beauty-inspired trends drawing interest are
shifting oral care toward bio-based, upcycled
and sustainable solutions and claims.
It is worth noting that most of these trends
were initiated pre-COVID-19. Furthermore, the
current global pandemic does not appear to
have diminished the consumer’s need for more
relevant offerings in the oral care space.6 In fact,
hygiene-related products have remained a resil-
ient theme throughout this challenging period.
Microbiome and Biofilms
Another area influencing the oral care
segment comes from recent interest in the
microbiome and biofilms. This aligns closely
with a long-established function of oral care:
to provide antibacterial effects. Consumers all
recognize that brushing and rinsing reduces
cavities, and that cavities are strongly linked to
12/15/20 6:04 PM
 bacteria. Historically, ingredients such as chlo-
rohexidine, cetyl pyridinium chloride (CPC) and
triclosan were employed for their well-established
ability to kill bacteria; however, some of these
ingredients are now under closer regulatory and
consumer scrutiny due to reported side effects.
Furthermore, they take a “nuclear” approach
to killing bacteria—effectively wiping out 99.0-
99.9% of all bacteria in the oral cavity. However,
there is a rising recognition that in the oral cavity,
as in the gut or on the skin, there are “good”
and “bad” bacteria. And we want to promote the
“good” and destroy the “bad.” The oral cavity
has the second-largest and second-most diverse
microbiota after the gut, containing more than
700 species of bacteria.7 The oral cavity also is in
constant contact with, and is continually vulner-
able to, its environment.8 This means the oral
cavity has a truly complex microbial ecological
system, with different surfaces of the mouth colo-
nized by different oral bacteria due to different
adhesins on their surface. The good news is: the
oral microbiome is one of the most well-studied,9
which has enabled the development of a variety of
different methods to study it.
Traditional methods ranging from culture-
dependent studies of single species, to complex
in vitro multi-species studies are well-established.
In recent years, advances in areas such as DNA
and RNA proteins or metabolites paint a broader
picture of the whole microbial community.10
Microbiomics and metagenomics have advanced
knowledge even further to help to detect and
identify the presence of microbes and understand
the nature of their activity.11
The endeavors of numerous researchers have
now isolated, cultivated, identified, characterized
and classified approximately 50% of the estimated
700 bacterial species commonly present in the
oral cavity.12 Their work has also uncovered
the symbiotic relationships between organisms
in our oral cavity. Commensal bacteria, for
example, keep pathogenic bacteria in check by
preventing their adherence to mucosa. Bacteria
only become pathogenic after they breach the
commensal barrier.13
All of these findings are slowly translating into
consumer products. Traditionally, consumers
have been ready to accept the “nuclear” approach
to bacterial management in oral care. But as
familiarity with “good” and “bad” bacteria grows
in the consumer world, greater acceptance will
drive a greater need for products that take an
alternative approach to treating different species
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Research_Pringle_fcx.indd 41
differently. This has led to oral care products
containing ingredients supporting probiotic and
prebiotic claims. Ingredients such as Lactobacil-
lus salivarus, for example, are being added to
promote a positive microbiome message. In fact,
according to Mintel’s GNPD, this microbiome
messaging in oral care quickly accelerated from
2015-2019, with more than half of new launches
in 2019 making such a claim.
Conclusions
From a distance, oral care may seem to be a
category stuck in a rut. But driving deeper into the
category reveals an entirely different world—one
where function strides alongside beauty and
innovation, and one with exciting developments
around the corner.
References
1. Kim, S. (1986). Hypersensitive teeth: Desensitization of pulpal
sensory nerves. J Endodod 12 482-485.
2. Yamasaki, A., Steward, C.C., Cakirer, M., Machnani, S. and
Munroe, M. (2012 Jun). Oral malodor suppression flavors. 90th
General Session and Exhibition of the International Association
of Dental Research. Iguaçu Falls, Brazil; poster no. 533.
3. Tooth Note (accessed 2020, Nov 18). Tooth Note Moisturizing
Therapy Toothpaste. Available at: https://shopee.com.my/
amp/Moisturizing-Therapy-toothpaste-Sensitive-Daily-Care-
(Basil-Lemon)-150ml-1ea-Cica-Moisture-Organic-Herb-
Extracts-i.213233111.4216792747
4. Natural Healthy Concepts (accessed 2020, Nov 18). Hyalogic
Dr. Jon’s Toothpaste Gel with Hyaluronic Acid. Available at:
https://www.nhc.com/dr-johns-toothpaste-gel-by-hyalogic
5. Dahiya, P. and Kamal, R. (2013 May). Hyaluronic acid: A boon
in periodontal therapy. North American Journal of Medical Sci-
ences 5(5) 309-315; available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/
pmc/articles/PMC3690787/
6. Flora, L. (23020, Sep 9). Oral care is a pandemic bright
spot for beauty. Available at: https://www.glossy.co/beauty/
oral-care-is-a-pandemic-bright-spot-for-beauty
7. Nimish Deo, P. and Deshmukh, R. (2019). Oral microbiome:
Unveiling the fundamentals. J Oral Maxillofac Pathol Jan-Apr
23(1) 122-128.
8. Demmitt, B.A., Corley, R.P., …McQueen, M.B., et al. (2017).
Genetic influences on the human oral microbiome. BMC
Genomics 18 659.
9. McLean, J.S. (2014). Advancements toward a systems level
understanding of the human oral microbiome. Front Cell Infect
Microbiol 4 98.
10. Mira, A. (2018). Oral microbiome studies: Potential diagnostic
and therapeutic implications. Adv Dent Res 29 71-7.
11. Zarco, M.F., Vess, T.J. and Ginsburg, G.S. (2012). The oral
microbiome in health and disease and the potential impact on
personalized dental medicine. Oral Dis 18 109-20.
12. Aas, J.A., Paster, B.J., Stokes, L.N., Olsen, I. and Dewhirst,
F.E. (2005). Defining the normal bacterial flora of the oral cavity.
J Clin Microbiol 43 5721-32.
13. Avila, M., Ojcius, D.M. and Yilmaz, O. (2009). The oral
microbiota: Living with a permanent guest. DNA Cell Biol 28
405-11.
| DM20
12/15/20 6:04 PM
 Testing | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• The field cultivation of hemp is tasked
by today’s large-scale demand. Here, a
Cannabis sativa cell culture extract is
proposed as a sustainable alternative.

• After initial characterization, the extract

was tested as described here for efficacy
against inflammatory markers for skin-
soothing activities.

facebook.com/CandTmagazine

Cosmetics & Toiletries

@cosmeticsandtoiletries

Soothing
Moves Assunta Tortora, Marida Bimonte and Annalisa Tito
Cannabis Sativa Cell Culture
Alleviates Inflammation
Arterra Bioscience SpA, Naples, Italy
Claudia Zappelli, Vitalab srl, Naples, Italy
Fabio Apone, Ph.D., Arterra Bioscience SpA and Vitalab srl, Naples, Italy

Reproduction in English or any other language of

34 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
© 2020 Allured Business Media.

CT2101_Testing_Apone_DM.indd 34 12/21/20 2:45 PM

 O riginating from
central Asia, Can-
nabis sativa is an
annual herbaceous
flowering plant.
Although used
medicinally for centuries,1, 2 it recently has
experienced a significant resurgence in interest,
becoming a buzzword in beauty.3 The main
reasons behind this are the richness of chemical
compounds produced by the plant and the sig-
nificant opening up of regulatory markets.4
the plant contains saccharides, phenolic
acids, flavonoids, stilbenes, lignans, fatty
acids and terpenes.5-8 Several compounds
of these classes are known to impart
relevant biological activities in mammalian
cells, including modulating appetite, pain
sensation, mood, memory, inflammation
and energy metabolism.9-10
In relation, plant cell and tissue
cultures are an appropriate alternative to
whole-plant cultivation both for studying
and producing secondary metabolites of
Cannabis plants contain more than cosmetic interest. Moreover, plant cell
500 known compounds. cultures support the push toward sustain-
In addition to able sourcing methods to reduce land
phyto-canna- exploitation and minimize impact on
binoids, the environment. At the same time, they
represent a standardized, contaminant-free
source of compounds for cosmetic applica-
tions on an industrial scale.11 Interestingly,
many investigators have established callus
cultures from the explants of different
C. sativa organs (i.e.,
roots, hypocotyls,
epicotyls, cotyledons,
petioles, leaves and imma-
ture flower buds); however,
scientific reports on secondary
metabolite extraction
and the biological
properties of can-
nabis culture extracts
are limited.
Taken together, this study
examines and reports the properties
and activities of a C. sativa cell
culture extract. For example,
cell suspension cultures of
the botanical are prepared
in a water/ethanol extract
and tested for the capac-

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2021 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 35

CT2101_Testing_Apone_DM.indd 35 12/21/20 2:46 PM

 Soothing Moves

The extract increased POMC expression

levels by 40%, suggesting its potential to
reduce the pain sensation and impart
skin-soothing activity.

ity to modulate neurogenic inflammation in in neuronal cells, and on histamine production

human cells. The term neurogenic inflammation
describes the mechanism by which sensory
nerves contribute to local inflammation by
releasing inflammatory neuropeptides such as
the Calcitonin Gene-Related Peptide (CGRP)
and Substance P (SP).12 CGRP is the most
abundant neuropeptide produced by the sensory
nerves in the various skin layers13 and plays
a striking role in the pathogenesis of inflam-
matory skin diseases such as psoriasis and
atopic dermatitis.14-16
In the skin, the release of CGRP from the
nerve fibers stimulates keratinocytes to produce
pro-inflammatory cytokines including interleu-
kins IL-1a, IL-6 and IL-8.17 In macrophages,
it induces the release of the pro-inflammatory
mediator histamine, which in turn triggers
neuropeptide synthesis, thus establishing a
bidirectional loop between sensory nerves and
epidermis cells.18
While CGRP represents a pro-inflammatory
neuropeptide, other types of neuropeptides
such as b-endorphin produce an opposite effect,
having analgesic and pain-relieving properties.19
b-Endorphins are mainly produced by nerve
cells; however, a fully functional b-endorphins/
receptor system is also present in skin kerati-
nocytes, where it is involved in epithelization,
tissue regeneration and pain relief.20, 21
Described herein are tests to assess the
effects of C. sativa cell culture extract on CGRP
The global cannabis extract market was
valued at US $7.3 billion in 2019 and is
anticipated to register a CAGR of 16.6% from
2020 to 2027.*
Source: Grand View Research
*pre-COVID-19 estimate
in CGRP-treated macrophages. In addition, the
extract’s activity is measured on the expression
of genes involved in skin inflammation, such as
those of the pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1a,
IL-8 and TNFa, and of the b-endorphin precur-
sor POMC. Lastly, clinical studies examine its
potential to soothe skin and reduce erythema.
In vitro Materials and
Methods
C. sativa cell cultures and extract: C. sativa
stem cells were obtained from leaves of the
variety Carmagnola and grown in Gamborg
B5 basal mediuma at a pH 5.7 supplemented
with sucrose, myo-inositol, phytohormones and
growth elicitors. After four weeks, the cells were
collected and extracted using three volumes of
ice-cold ethanol (96%). The obtained superna-
tant was distilled by a low-pressure evaporation
process and lyophilized until obtaining a
powder, which was then dissolved in water and
used for the analyses and assays described at the
required concentration.
Chemical analysis: A sample of cannabis
extract was dissolved in water to a final con-
centration of 0.25 mg/mL; the analysis was
performed by NP-HPLCb. The detection was
performed by light scatteringc using the fol-
lowing settings: 45°C, gas flow 1.5 L/min, gain
factor 1.
Cell cultures and reagents for bioassays:
SHSY5Y neuroblastoma cells, HaCaT kera-
tinocytes and macrophages RAW 264.7 were
maintained in DMEM mediumd supplemented
with 10% FBSe. Normal human epidermal
a
Duchefa Biochemie
b
Perkin Elmer Series 200, using a Supelcosil LC-SI
250 x 4.6, 5 µm
c
Alltech 3300 ELSD
d
Gibco, Life Technologies, Massachusetts, UK

36 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_Testing_Apone_DM.indd 36 12/21/20 2:46 PM

 keratinocytes (nHEK) were maintained in
EpiLifed supplemented with human keratinocyte
growth supplement (HKGS). All cell types were
grown under 5% CO2 at 37°C. Additional materi-
als procured included: capsaicin, capsazepine,
T0901317 and cetirizine dihydrochloridef; the
human neuropeptide CGRPg; and the CGRP
Enzyme Immunoassay kit Bertin Pharmah.
Gene expression analysis: For gene expres-
sion analyses of CGRP and POMC, 1.8 × 106
SHSY5Y or 1.5 × 106 NHEK, respectively, were
seeded in six-well plates and treated with C.
sativa extract or capsaicin for 6 hr. For the pro-
inflammatory cytokines, 1.5 × 106 HaCaT cells
were seeded in six-well plates pretreated with C.
sativa extract for 16 hr, then stressed with 1 nM
CGRP for 1 hr.
After the treatments, cells were collected
and RNA was extractedj. The RNA was first
treated with DNase I to eliminate contaminating
genomic DNA and then cDNA was synthesizedk.
e
Hyclone, GE Healthcare Life Sciences
f
Sigma-Aldrich, Milano
g
Cayman Chemical Company, Michigan, USA
h
Vinci Biochem, Florence
j
GenElute Mammalian Total RNA Miniprep kit, Sigma-
Aldrich, Milano
k
RevertAid First Strand cDNA synthesis Kit, Thermo Fisher
Scientific, Dallas
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Testing_Apone_DM.indd 37
RT-PCR was performed using gene specific prim-
ers and the QuantumRNA 18S internal standardm.
The amplification reactions were performed
according to the following scheme: 2 min at 94°C,
followed by 35 cycles of 94°C for 30 sec, annealing
temperature (specific for each gene) for 30 sec,
and 72°C for 30 sec with a 10 min final extension
at 72°C. The obtained PCR products were loaded
onto 1.5% agarose gel and the amplification
bands, visualized and quantifiedn, were normal-
ized to the amplification band corresponding to
the 18S. The average values, obtained from three
independent experiments, were converted into
percentage values by considering the measure-
ment of the untreated control as 100%.
CGRP measurements: The amount of CGRP
neuropeptide produced was measured using the
ELISA assay by seeding 1 × 105 SHSY5Y in a
96-well plate and treating the samples with the
extract for 4 hr before adding 50 μM capsaicin
alone or in the presence of capsazepine. After
24 hr, the cell media was collected and transferred
to anti-CGRP monoclonal antibody-coated plates
(CGRP human) and the assayp was performed
m
Ambion
n
Geliance 200 Imaging system, Perkin Elmer, Woodbridge,
Ontario, Canada
p
Enzyme immuno assay kit, Bertin Pharma
| 37
12/21/20 2:46 PM
 Soothing Moves
CBD in Cosmetics
Check out page 24 in our
September 2020 edition.
according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Histamine measurements: Macrophages
RAW264.7 were seeded at a density of 5 × 104
cells/well in 96-well plates and treated with
C. sativa extract for 2 hr. The cells were then
treated with 10 nM CGRP and the amount of
histamine was measured after 16 hr by add-
ing a solution of 0.4 M NaOH and 1 mg/mL of
O-Phthaldialdehyde (OPA) in methanol. After
10 min, 0.1 M HCl was added to each well to
stop the reaction and the fluorescence inten-
sity—proportional to the amount of released
histamine—was measured at 443 nm by a
Multi-plate Reader.
Statistical analysis: All in vitro experiments
were conducted in triplicate and repeated three
times. The data was expressed as the mean ±
the standard deviation of the values obtained by
three independent experiments. Statistical com-
parisons between controls and treated groups
were performed according to the student’s t-test
using the softwareq; p values lower than 0.05
were considered statistically significant. The
number of asterisks in the graphs indicate the
level of significance; i.e., *** = p < 0.001; ** = p <
0.01; and * = p < 0.05.
q
GraphPad prism version 8
Formula 1. Test Cream for Clinical Trials
CAS INCI
7732-18-5 Water (Aqua)
73398-61-5 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
57-11-4 Stearic Acid
31566-31-1 Glyceryl Stearate
9004-99-3 PEG-100 Steartae
67762-27-0 Cetearyl Alcohol
36653-82-4 Cetyl Alcohol
122-99-6 Phenoxyethanol
9004-99-3 PEG-20 Stearate
70445-33-9 Ethylhexylglycerin
76050-42-5 Carbomer
139-33-3 Disodium EDTA
1310-73-2 Sodium Hydroxide
38 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2101_Testing_Apone_DM.indd 38
Clinical Test Protocols
Skin erythema index: A total of 20 healthy
volunteers between the ages of 20 and 65 with
normal skin were enrolled in this study and
gave their written informed consent. Three
different sites on their forearms, referred to as
A, P and C, were identified where erythema was
induced by applying a solution of 30% sodium
laureth sulfate. Skin erythema was quantified
instrumentallyr. First, the baseline erythema
index was calculated, then study products were
applied on the different areas, including: a for-
mulation containing cannabis extract on A (see
Formula 1), a placebo cream on P, and nothing
Formula 1
on C (control area). After 30 min, the erythema
index was measured to evaluate the soothing
effect of the tested products. Three sequential
measurements on each area were taken and the
data was expressed as a mean value variation %
from the baseline.
TEWL and Corneometers hydration index:
The rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL, g/
hm2) and corneometer hydration indices are the
most important parameters for evaluating the
efficiency of skin barrier function. The volun-
teers were directed to apply each formulation
to the three different areas twice daily, in the
morning and evening, for 14 consecutive days.
Skin hydration levelss and TEWL valuest were
assessed at the baseline, after erythema induc-
tion and post-application for 7 and 14 days.
Statistical analysis: For the clinical tests,
the student’s t-test was performed using softwa-
reu; a p value < 0.05 was considered significant.
Results: Cell Culture Extract
and Chemical Analysis
Starting from Cannabis sativa plants, cell
suspension cultures were developed using a
specific growth medium, optimized to obtain
the highest yield of cell biomass per volume.
The biomass was extracted in ethanol 96% (1:3
w/v ratio), and the obtained extract contained
flavonoids (including cannflavin B), phenolic
acids and their glucosides, spiro-compounds
(such as cannabispirol), vitamins and terpenes,
as determined by mass spectrometry analysis.
r
Mexameter MX 18 probe, Courage+Khazaka Electronic
GmbH
s
Corneometer, Courage & Khazaka, Koln-West Germany
t
Tewameter TM 300, Courage+Khazaka Electronic GmbH
u
SPSS software 15.0 for Windows, SPSS Science, Chicago
12/21/20 2:46 PM
 Targeting CGRP release represents a
novel approach to reduce nerve-induced
inflammation and soothe inflamed skin.
Concentrations of cannabinol (CBN), can-
nabidiol (CBD) and cannabidiolic acid (CBDA)
lower than 1 mg/100 g of dried extract were
detected, in agreement with previous studies
reporting that cannabis callus cultures produce
undetectable or very low levels of cannabinoids,
irrespective of the elicitors or growth regulators
used in the culture medium.22 As expected, due
to the plant variety used for obtaining the cells,
the psychoactive compounds D9-tetrahydrocan-
nabinol (THC) and D9-tetrahydrocannabinolic
acid (THCA) were absent from the extract.
Results: Activity on
Neurogenic Inflammation
Since CGRP is important to the skin, target-
ing its release represents a novel approach to
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Testing_Apone_DM.indd 39
reduce nerve-induced inflammation and soothe
inflamed skin. SHSY5Y nerve cells were treated
with C. sativa extract at two concentrations
and with capsaicin for comparison, which is
known to induce CGRP synthesis.23 CGRP gene
expression showed the extract reduced the basal
expression level of CGRP by ~35%—differently
from capsaicin, which increased the neuropep-
tide expression by 32% (see Figure 1a).
1a
The amounts of CGRP produced by the
cells after treatments also were assessed by
ELISA assay. To overcome problems related
to detection limits, cells were stressed with
50 μM capsaicin to induce the production
of CGRP after the treatment with C. sativa
extract. Furthermore, in place of the extract,
some samples were treated with capsazepine, a
| 39
12/21/20 2:46 PM
 Soothing Moves

capsaicin antagonist, used as a positive control

in the assay. As shown in Figure 1b,
1b capsaicin
increased the synthesis of CGRP, which was
inhibited by approximately 30% by the C. sativa
extract as well as the capsazepine.
To evaluate the capacity of the C. sativa
extract to inhibit the CGRP-induced inflamma-
tion in skin cells, keratinocytes were treated
with the extract or with the anti-inflammatory
drug T0901317, used as a positive control,24 and
then with 1 nM of purified peptide CGRP. The
Figure 2. Cytokine gene expression analysis:
IL-1a, IL-8 and TNFa in skin keratinocytes

a)
expression analysis of three pro-inflammatory
cytokines was performed 1 hr after the neuro-
peptide treatment. Results showed the extract
significantly inhibited the expression of IL-1a,
IL-8 and TNFa, analogously to the compound
T0901317 (see Figure 2).2
Besides cytokines, histamine is another
inflammatory mediator induced by CGRP. Thus,
the capacity of C. sativa extract to modulate
histamine production was evaluated in mac-
rophages after treatment with GCRP 10 nM.
Analysis performed by a fluorescent assay
showed that the extract, at both concentr­ations,
inhibited CGRP-induced histamine synthesis by
b) approximately 25-30% (see Figure 3
Figure 3), similarly
to the cetirizine dihydroc­hloride, a known drug
with antihistamine activity.25 These results
suggested the potential of C. sativa extract to
reduce neuropeptide-induced inflammation in
immune system cells.
To assess whether the C. sativa extract was
able to stimulate the production of b-endorphin,
epidermal keratinocytes were treated with the
extract and the gene expression level Pro-
OpioMela­noCortin (POMC)—a 241 amino acid
precursor polypeptide that generates b-endor-
phin peptides under cleavage—was assessed.
Both concentr­ations of the extract increased

CBD in Cosmetics
Figure 1. CGRP expression analysis and
production in SHSY5Y cells (a) and quantification Check out page 24 in our
September 2020 edition.
in SHSY5Y cells by ELISA assay (b)

DM21 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_Testing_Apone_DM.indd 40 12/21/20 2:46 PM

 POMC expression level by 40%, suggesting
the extract’s potential to reduce the pain
sensation and impart skin-soothing activity
(see Figure 4
Figure 4).

Results: Clinical Testing

To evaluate the activity of C. sativa
extract in ameliorating skin properties in
vivo, measurements were made of the skin
erythema index, transepi­dermal water
loss (TEWL) and corneometer index as
described previously. Results reported in Figure 3. Histamine levels in RAW264.7 cells
Figure 5 show that treatment with a cream
containing C. sativa extract at 0.002%
reduced the erythema value by a statistically
significant 24.3%; the placebo cream did
not.
The principle of skin inflammation is
often associated with altered skin barrier
permeability and an increase in TEWL.
Treatment of the skin for two consecutive
weeks with the twice daily application of
a C. sativa extract-containing emulsion
significantly reduced TEWL values by
16% (see Figure 6a).
6a At the same time,
the corneometer index increased by 18%,
indicating higher skin hydration (see Figure
6b). Overall, the results of the clinical tests
6b
indicated that C.  sativa extract demon-
strated significant anti-inflammatory and
skin-moisturizing properties, suggesting its
use as an active ingredient for soothing face Figure 4. POMC expression analysis in
and body skin care formulations.
skin keratinocytes
Conclusions
These studies show that a water-ethanol
extract derived from C. sativa cell suspen-
sion cultures effectively inhibited the
expression and release of inflammatory
neuropep­tides, therefore modulating skin
neurogenic inflammation. Moreover, by
acting on the release of the calcitonin gene
related peptide (CGRP), it reduced inflam-
matory cytokine expression and histamine
release, resulting in a global soothing and
moisturizing effect on the skin in vivo.
Several ingredients obtained from
plant cell cultures are drawing interest for
cosmetics thanks to their characte­ristics
of safety, efficacy and sustaina­bility.26
Figure 5. Skin erythema index variation;
The extract described here is one of the
*significant by t-test, p < 0.05
first ingredients derived from cannabis

Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DM22

CT2101_Testing_Apone_DM.indd 41 12/21/20 2:46 PM

 Soothing Moves

The C. sativa cell culture extract described demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory and skin-moisturizing properties.

a)
cell cultures and developed and
characterized for cosmetic use—and
with promising effects. In addition,
thanks to its capacity to switch off
neurogenic inflammation and modulate
the production of neurotra­nsmitters
and neuropeptides in nerve cells, the
cannabis extract has the potential for
alternative applications to cosmetics.27
Chemical characte­rization of
the extract revealed the presence of
bioactive compounds that have been
linked to anti-inflammatory activity,
such as phenolic acids, flavonoids and
terpenes. In particular, cannflavins and
methylated isoprenoid flavones unique
b) to cannabis28 have been studied for
their neuro-protective and anti-cancer
properties.7-29 Thanks to their capacity
to significantly inhibit the in vivo pro-
duction of pro-inflammatory mediators
such as prostaglandin E2 and the leu-
kotrienes,30 cannflavins have previously
demonstrated anti-inflammatory action
30 times greater than that exerted by
the common drug aspirin.31
Today, consumer demand for
cannabis-based products has expo-
nentially increased. The use of cell
culture systems represents a convenient
solution to address this demand. As
demonstrated here, the described
C. sativa cell culture extract is a suitable
Figure 6. Changes in skin hydration from baseline by source that supports product claims
corneometer (a) and TEWL values (b) after treatment not only for the presence of cannabis
with cannabis extract, placebo or no treatment for compounds, but also their efficacy.
7 days and 14 days; *significant by t-test, p < 0.05.

DM23 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_Testing_Apone_DM.indd 42 12/21/20 2:46 PM

 References
1. Russo, G.​L. (2007). Ins and outs of dietary phytoche­micals
in cancer chemopre­vention. Biochemical Pharmacology
74(4) 533-544.
2. Koltai, H. and Namdar, D. (2020). Cannabis phytomolecule
'entourage': From domestication to medical use. Trends in
Plant Sci S1360-1385(20) 30122-9.
3. Blinkoff, S., Lord, L. and Weiss, C. (2020). Cannabis in
cosmetics. Happi.
4. Solymosi, K. and Köfalvi, A. (2017). Cannabis: A treasure
trove or Pandora's box? Mini Reviews Med Chem 17(13)
1223–1291.
5. ElSohly, M.​A., Radwan, M.​M., Gul, W., Chandra, S. and
Galal, A. (2017). Phytoche­mistry of Cannabis sativa L.
Progress Chem Org Nat Prod 103 1-36.
6. Andre, C.M., Hausman, J.F. and Guerriero, G. (2016). Can-
nabis sativa: The plant of the thousand and one molecules.
Frontiers Plant Sci 7 19.
7. Flores-Sanchez, I.J. and Verpoorte, R. (2008). PKS activi-
ties and biosynthesis of cannabinoids and flavonoids in
Cannabis sativa L. plants. Plant & Cell Physiology 49(12)
1767-1782.
8. Gülck, T. and Møller, B.​L. (2020). Phytocan­nabinoids: Ori-
gins and biosynthesis. Trends in Plant Sci. S1360-1385(20)
30187-4.
9. De Petrocellis, L., Ligresti, A., Moriello, A.​S., Allarà, M.,
Bisogno, T., Petrosino, S., Stott, C.​G. and Di Marzo, V.
(2011). Effects of cannabinoids and cannabinoid-enriched
cannabis extracts on TRP channels and endocann­abinoid
metabolic enzymes. Br J Pharmacol 163(7) 1479-94.
10. Di Marzo, V. and Piscitelli, F. (2015). The endocann­
abinoid system and its modulation by phytocan­nabinoids.
Neurothe­rapeutics 12(4) 692-698.
11. Apone, F., Tito, A., Arciello, S., Carotenuto, G. and Colucci,
M.G. (2020). Plant tissue cultures as sources of ingredients
for skin care applications. Annual Plant Reviews 3 135-150.
12. Geppetti, P., Nassini, R., Materazzi, S. and Benemei, S.
(2008). The concept of neurogenic inflammation. BJU Int
101, suppl 3 2-6.
13. Franco-Cereceda, A. and Liska, J. (2000). Potential of
calcitonin gene-related peptide in coronary heart disease.
Pharmacology 60(1) 1-8.
14. Ye, G., Ren, X.Z., Qi, L., Wang, L. and Zhang, Y. (2017).
CGRP modulates the pathogenetic process of psoriasis via
promoting CCL27 secretion in a MAPK- and NF-kB signal-
ing pathway-dependent manner. Biomedical Res 28(14)
6319-6325.
15. Chu, D.​Q., Choy, M., Foster, P., Cao, T. and Brain, S.​
D. (2000). A comparative study of the ability of calcitonin
gene-related peptide and adrenome­dullin to modulate
microvascular but not thermal hyperalgesia responses. Brit
J Pharmacol 130(7) 1589-1596.
16. He, Y., Ding, G., Wang, X., Zhu, T. and Fan S. (2000). Cal-
citonin gene-related peptide in Langerhans cells in psoriatic
plaque lesions. Chinese Med J 113(8) 747-751.
17. Park, Y.​M. and Kim, C.​W. (1999). The effects of substance
P and vasoactive intestinal peptide on interleukin-6 synthe-
sis in cultured human keratino­cytes. J Dermatol Sci 22(1)
17-23.
18. Peters, E.M., Ericson, M.E., Hosoi, J., Seiffert, K., Hordin-
sky, M.K., Ansel, J.C., Paus, R. and Scholzen, T.E. (2006).
Neuropeptide control mechanisms in cutaneous biology:
Physiological and clinical significance. J Invest Derm 126(9)
1937-1947 (2006).
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19. Corder, G., Castro, D.C., Bruchas, M.R. and Scherrer, G.
(2018). Endogenous and exogenous opioids in pain. Annual
Rev Neuroscience 41 453-473.
20. Bigliardi, P.L., Büchner, S., Rufli, T. and Bigliardi-Qi, M.
(2002). Specific stimulation of migration of human kerati-
nocytes by mu-opiate receptor agonists. J Receptor and
Signal Transduction Research 22(1-4) 191-199.
21. Subadi, I., Nugraha, B., Laswati, H. and Josomuljono, H.
(2017). Pain relief with wet cupping therapy in rats is medi-
ated by heat shock protein 70 and b-endorphin. Iranian J
Med Sci 42(4) 384-391.
22. Pacifico, D., Miselli, F., Carboni, A., Moschella, A. and Man-
dolino, G. (2008). Time course of cannabinoid accumulation
and chemotype development during the growth of Cannabis
sativa L. Euphytica 160 231-240.
23. Tsuji, F. and Hiroyuki, A. (2012). Role of Transient Receptor
Potential Vanilloid 1 in inflammation and autoimmune
diseases. Pharmace­uticals 5 837-852.
24. Dai, X., Ou, X., Hao, X., Cao, D., Tang, Y., Hu, Y., Li, X. and
Tang, C. (2007). Effect of T0901317 on hepatic proinfla­
mmatory gene expression in apoE-/- mice fed a high-fat/​
high-cholesterol diet. Inflammation 30(3-4) 105-117.
25. Chen, C. (2008). Physicoc­hemical, pharmaco­logical and
pharmaco­kinetic properties of the zwitterionic antihist­
amines cetirizine and levoceti­rizine. Curr Med Chem 15(21)
2173-2191.
26. Apone, F., Barbulova, A., Zappelli, C. and Colucci, G.M.
(2017, May/Jun). Green biotechnology in cosmetics: Using
plant cell cultures as sources of active ingredients. HPC
Today 12(3).
27. Apone, F., Bimonte, M., Colucci, M.​G. and Tortora, A.
(2018). Cosmetic, pharmace­utical and nutraceutical use
of an extract derived from Cannabis sativa cell cultures.
IT201800­020590A.
28. Ross, S.A., El Sohly, M.A., Sultana, G.N.N., Mehmedic,
Z., Hossain, C.F. and Chandra, S. Flavonoid glycosides
and cannabinoids from the pollen of Cannabis sativa L.
Phytochem Anal 16 45-48.
29. Russo, E.B. and Marcu, J. (2017). Cannabis pharmacol-
ogy: The usual suspects and a few promising leads. Adv
Pharmacol 80 67-134.
30. Werz, O., Seegers, J., Schaible, A.M., Weinigel, C., Barz,
D., Koeberle, A., Allegro, E., Pollastri, F., Zampieri, L.,
Grassi, G. and Appendino, G. (2014). Cannflavins from
hemp sprouts, a novel cannabinoid free hemp food product,
target microsomial prostaglandin E2 synthase-1 and
5-lipoxygenase. Pharm Nutr 2 53-60.
31. Barrett, M.L., Gordon, D. and Evans, F.J. (1985). Isolation
from Cannabis sativa L. of cannflavin—A novel inhibitor
of prostaglandin production. Biochem Pharmacol 34(11)
2019-2024.
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 Testing | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• Humans value senses of touch and warmth
while enjoying their surroundings but pain
and itch are also part of this experience.

• The present column explores Transient

Receptor Proteins (TRPs), how they sense
pain and itch, and their potential application
in skin care and anti-aging products.

Testing Tactics in Skin

Keratinocytes as
Sensory Nociceptors:
Targeting Pain and Itch
Robert Holtz, Ph.D.
BioInnovation Labs, Inc.
Denver, USA

40 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
T he integumentary system is more than just a
barrier between our bodies and the environ-
ment. It is a vast sensory organ, designed to
collect palpable information from one's sur-
roundings; such as the warm feeling of sunshine
on your face; the comfort of the chair you are
sinking into; or even the softness and pleasure you experience while
stroking your pet's fur.

Reproduction in English or any other language of

all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
© 2021 Allured Business Media.
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2010_Testing_Holtz_fcx.indd 40 12/16/20 10:45 AM

 The role of TRPs in mediating
itch and pain responses in the
skin would make them targets of
interest for the skin care industry.

These are hence, they are solely responsible for detecting

just a few noxious stimuli.3 However, recent studies have
examples of the indicated this may not be the case.
nearly endless Within the epidermis, the nociceptive
list of pleasur- nerve fibers are surrounded by, and are in
able sensations contact with, the epidermal keratinocytes. It
humans can enjoy is these keratinocytes that form a small bar-
through the sense rier between the nociceptive nerve fibers and
of touch. However, the outside. Interestingly, these nerve fibers
there is a flip-side are unmyelinated in the epidermis (C-fibers
to this—and it is are unmyelinated while Ad-fibers lose their
not so pleasant. myelination when they enter the epidermis),
As we go about allowing them to come into direct contact with
our daily lives, we the epidermal keratinocytes.1 This contact is no
come into contact accident. As it turns out, epidermal keratino-
with elements cytes express a broad range of sensory proteins.
of our environ- Therefore, in addition to their barrier function,
ment that can be these cells also serve a critical role in transduc-
hazardous and ing environmental stimuli to the epidermal
damaging to the nociceptive nerves.4
body: extremely
hot pans from the Keratinocyte
oven; sharp knives Nociceptive Detection
in the silverware
Both epidermal keratinocytes and epidermal
drawer; or even
nociceptive sensory nerves use a common
insect stings.
family of proteins to detect noxious stimuli.
These noxious
This detection is provided by a class of sensory
stimuli are associ-
receptors belonging to the family of Transient
ated with feelings
Receptor Protein (TRP) ion gates.5 These
of pain or itch,
proteins form channels in the plasma mem-
which serves as
brane that can react to thermal, mechanical and
a harsh warning
chemical stimuli and when activated, they allow
for the body to get
away from the source of that stimuli.
In the skin, noxious stimuli are relayed by
nociceptive sensory neurons such as C-fibers
and Ad-fibers.1 These neurons, which have their With sunburn, pain is at its worst at 6-48 hr,
cell body in the dorsal root ganglia next to the and immediate symptoms will worsen from
spine, send out nerve fibers whose free nerve 24-36 hr. Skin begins to peel typically 3-8 days
endings terminate within the granular or spi- after sun exposure.
nous layer of the epidermis.2 Traditional views
of the cutaneous nociceptive system have long
held that these sensory nerves were the only Source: Medical News Today
cells with sensory capabilities in the skin and

Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 41

CT2010_Testing_Holtz_fcx.indd 41 12/16/20 10:45 AM

 Testing Tactics in Skin
for the transient entry of calcium into the cell
in keratinocytes or membrane depolarization in
sensory neurons.6 In keratinocytes, this influx
of calcium via activation of the TRPs activates a
signaling cascade within the cell to promote the
release of a variety of neuroactive substances,
including: ATP, calcitonin gene-related peptide
(CGRP), epinephrine, acetylcholine and cyto-
kines such as IL-8, IL-1B and PGE2.7
The TRP superfamily has 28 members to it,
subdivided into six families: canonical (TRPC),
vanilloid (TRPV), melastatin-related (TRPM),
ankyrin (TRPA), mucolipin (TRPM) and
polycystic (TRPP).5 Of these families, the TRPV
family is perhaps the most extensively studied in
part due to its temperature-sensitive activation.
TRPV1 is known to be activated at temperatures
above 42°C.8 TRPV2 is activated at temperatures
above 52°C,9 and TRPV3 is activated at tem-
peratures above 33°C to 39°C .6 In addition to
thermal inputs, these receptors are polymodal
and respond to a wide variety of chemical and
physical stimuli. For example, TRPV1 responds
to a decrease in local pH and to stimulation with
capsaicin, the main ingredient in chili peppers
responsible for the "heat" when consumed.5
These types of stimulation result in a
transmission of a pain signal initiated by
the keratinocyte and then transmitted to the
sensory neuron. TRPV1 can also respond to
stimuli associated with itch, such as histamine
and endothelin-1.10 These types of responses
are mediated by the respective ligand bind-
ing to its G-protein coupled receptor on the
surface of the keratinocyte and activating an
intracellular signaling cascade, which can
lead to the phosphorylation of the TRP and its
subsequent activation.11
The essential role of TRPs in mediating itch
and pain responses in the skin would alone
make them targets of interest for the skin care
industry. However, the effects of the TRPs on
keratinocyte function often go beyond merely
relaying information from the environment to
the sensory neurons. As these TRP channels are
associated with an influx of calcium into the
keratinocytes, this calcium surge can initiate a
series of events within the cell that can respond
to the noxious stimulus itself.6 Noted later in
this column, sometimes the keratinocytes' cel-
lular response to TRP activation is not beneficial
to the cell. Rather, it can be harmful to the
42 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2010_Testing_Holtz_fcx.indd 42
keratinocyte and/or to the sensory neurons
associated with it. It is the counter-action of
some of these adverse effects of TRP activa-
tion that could also be of interest to the skin
care industry.
UVB Exposure
At least two members of the TRP family
respond to UVB light: TRPV4 and TRPC7. With
respect to TRPV4, the activation of this ion
channel is thought to be responsible for the
pain associated with sunburns.12 The mecha-
nism involved with this pain response revolves
around the activation of TRPV4 in epidermal
keratinocytes, resulting in the production
of endothelin-1. Endothelin-1 is the active
pain-causing agent, which can unfortunately
stimulate further up-regulation of TRPV4.
It is perhaps this increase in TRPV4 expres-
sion that leads to the transition from an itchy
sunburn to a painful sunburn.13 Interestingly,
animal studies have shown that the topical
application of a TRPV4 inhibitor will alleviate
the pain associated with a sunburn,12 which
would support a similar concept for human
skin application.
Screening for TRPV4 inhibition: From an
in vitro testing perspective, screening materi-
als for TRPV4 inhibition could be conducted
using either a cultured keratinocyte model
or a 3D tissue model. UVB would be used to
initiate TRPV4 activation and since calcium
transients can be tricky to measure in cell
culture—and nearly impossible to assess in tis-
sue models—the release of endothelin-1 would
be an endpoint. There are many commercially
available compounds that can be used as com-
parative TRPV4 inhibitors, such as HC067047
and GSK3527497.
In addition to TRPV4, UVB exposure will
also activate TRPC7, and this activation is
thought to play a significant role in the process
of skin aging due to UVB exposure.14 In the
short term, UVB-induced activation of TRPC7
can result in the formation of intracellular
ROS, while the long term results of TRPC7
activation include:
• An increase in the number of
senescent cells;
• Increased DNA damage in the form of DNA
strand breaks or mutated bases; and
• Increased skin tumor formation.14
12/16/20 10:45 AM
 An increase in TRPV4 expression is believed to lead to the transition from an itchy sunburn to a painful one.
If the expression of TRPC7 is reduced or
eliminated, or if the TRPC7 receptor is inhib-
ited, then the adverse effects associated with
UVB exposure can be significantly reduced.
These observations are based on both TRPC7
knockout mice and human keratinocyte cell
culture studies, and they provide some powerful
supporting evidence for the benefits of finding a
means to inhibit TRPC7.
Screening for TRPC7 inhibition: From an
in vitro testing perspective, screening materials
to inhibit TRPC7 would be tricky, as there is
currently not an established TRPC7-specific
inhibitor or activator. However, there are
compounds that will selectively activate TRPC6
and TRPC7, such as OAG (1-oleoul-2-acetyl-sn-
glycerol); and there are inhibitors for TRPCs as
a family, such as 2-APB or SKF96365.
In human keratinocytes, it has been observed
that ROS formation from UVB exposure is due
to TRPC7 activation. Since TRPC6 does not play
a role, then, it may be possible to generate a
model using OAG to activate keratinocytes and
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2010_Testing_Holtz_fcx.indd 43
see if there is accompanying ROS formation.
On the other hand, if OAG does not promote
ROS in keratinocytes, then UVB could be used.
If there is, and it can be inhibited by 2-APB or
SKF96365, then this could be a good model
to screen materials for the ability to inhibit
TRPC7 activation. Such a material could have
tremendous anti-aging effects if used in skin
care products.
Pathological Pain
As one of the primary purposes of the TRPs
is to relay noxious stimuli to nociceptive sensory
neurons, it should come as no surprise that
conditions associated with abnormal cutaneous
pain perception, most commonly neuropathic
in origin, will likely involve a member of this
superfamily. As discussed in a previous column,
alterations in TRPV1 and TRPV4 are thought
to be the main mechanism behind the tingling
and needle pains associated with sensitive
skin syndrome.15
Recently, there has been considerable
| 43
12/16/20 10:46 AM
 Testing Tactics in Skin
TRPV3 is found to be overexpressed in skin
conditions such as atopic dermatitis.
interest in the role of another TRP in skin
pathology: TRPV3. This TRP normally plays a
role in epidermal homeostasis and hair growth;6
however, it is found to be over-expressed in skin
conditions such as atopic dermatitis.16 In addi-
tion, TRPV3 is found to be up-regulated in burn
scars17 or other post-surgical scars18 associated
with intense itch or pain.
One common denominator for these condi-
tions associated with elevated TRPV3 is that
they also tend to be associated with inflamma-
tion. In fact, activation of the TRPV3 ion gate in
epidermal keratinocytes is associated with the
activation of the NF-KB pathway, followed by
the subsequent release of inflammatory cyto-
kines IL-6, IL-8 and PGE2.19 PGE2 is considered
to be an activator of nociceptive sensory nerves
and is one of the contributing factors to the pain
and itch in these conditions.4
Treatments with TRPV3 antagonists have
been observed to reduce neuropathic pain,20 so
it could be advantageous to screen materials for
their ability to shut down TRPV3 signaling for
use in atopic dermatitis, scars or other potential
44 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2010_Testing_Holtz_fcx.indd 44
skin pain conditions. Ideally, a simple in vitro
model for screening would be to treat cultured
epidermal keratinocytes with a TRPV3 agonist
such as carvacrol, and then to measure the
release of IL-6, IL-8 or PGE2.
Concluding Remarks
TRPs are quickly becoming a target of inter-
est in the skin care market in terms of treating
conditions associated with acute or chronic
itch/pain, especially when the treatments can
be applied topically.4 As our industry often
aims to provide relief for individuals afflicted
by painful or itchy skin, it only makes sense
that we investigate TRPs as potential targets for
future actives.
References
1. Talagas, M., et al. (2018). What about physical contacts
between epidermal keratinocytes and sensory neurons?
Exper Derm 27 9-13.
2. Talagas, M., Lebonvallet, N., Berthod, F. and Misery, L.
(2020). Lifting the veil on the keratinocyte contribution to
cutaneous nociception. Protein and Cell 11(4) 239-250.
12/16/20 10:46 AM
 3. Basbaum, A.I., Bautista, D.M., Scherrer, G. and Julius, D.
(2009). Cellular and molecular mechanisms of pain. Cell 139
267-284.
4. Hesselink, J.M.K., Kopsky, D.J. and Bhaskar, A.K. (2017).
Skin matters! The role of keratinocytes in nociception: a
rational argument for the development of topical analgesics.
J Pain Res 10 1-8.
5. Samanta, A., Hughes, T.E. and Moiseenkopva-
Bell, V.Y. (2018, Jul 18). Transient Receptor
Potential (TRP) channels. Subcell Biochem 87 141-165.
doi:10.1007/978-981-10-7757-9_6.
6. Caterina, M.J. and Pang, Z. (2016). TRP channels in skin
biology and pathophysiology. Pharma 9(77) 1-28.
7. Moehring, F., et al. (2018, Jan 16). Keratinocytes mediate
innocuous and noxious touch via ATP-P2X4 signaling.
Elifesciences.org. Https://elifesciences.org/articles/31684
8. Caterina, M.J., (1997). The capsaicin receptor: a heat-
activated ion channel in the pain pathway. Nature 389
816-824.
9. Caterina, M.J., Rosen, T.A., Tominaga, M., Brake, A.J. and
Julius, D. (1999). A capsaicin-receptor homologue with a
high threshold for noxious heat. Nature 398 436-441.
10. Talagas, M. and Misery, L. (2019). Role of keratinocytes in
sensitive skin. Frontiers in Medicine 6(108). doi: 10.3389/
fmed.2019.00108.
11. Salzer, I., Ray, S., Schicker, K. and Boehm, S. (2019). Noci-
ceptor signaling through ion channel regulation via GPCRs.
Int J Mol Sci 20 248. doi:10.3390/ijms20102488.
12. Moore C, et al. (2013). UVB radiation generates sunburn
pain and affects skin by activating epidermal TRPV4
ion channels and triggering endothelin-1 signaling.
Proc Natl Acad Sci USA. Https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.
gov/23929777/
13. Chen, Y., et al. (2016). Transient receptor potential vanilloid
4 ion channel functions as a prupriceptor in epidermal
keratin oocytes to evoke histaminergic itch. J Bio Chem
291(19) 10252-10262.
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CT2010_Testing_Holtz_fcx.indd 45
14. Hsu, W., et al. (2019). Nociceptive transient receptor
potential canonical 7 (TRPC7) mediates aging-associated
tumorigenesis induced by ultraviolet B. Aging Cell 19. doi.
org/10.1111/acel.13075.
15. Holtz, R. (Oct, 2019). Testing tactics in skin solving sensitiv-
ity in vitro assays for sensitive skin. Cosm & Toilet. Http://
cosmeticsandtoiletries.texterity.com/cosmeticsandtoiletries/
october_2019/MobilePagedArticle.action?articleId=152680
3#articleId1526803
16. Yamamoto-Kasai, E., Yasui, K., Shichijo, M., Sakata, T. and
Yoshioka, T. (2013, Dec) Impact of TRPV3 on the develop-
ment of allergic dermatitis as a dendritic cell modulator.
Exp Dermatol 22 820-824. Https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.
gov/24164484/
17. Kim, H.O., et al. (2016). Increased activity of TRPV3 kerati-
nocytes in hypertrophic burn scars with postburn pruritus.
Wound Repair and Regeneration 24 841-850.
18. Gopinath, P., et al. (2005). Increased capsaicin receptor
TRPV1 in skin nerve fibers and related vanilloid receptors
TRPV3 and TRPV4 in keratinocytes in human breast pain.
BMC Women’s Health 5 2.
19. Szollosi, A.G. (2018, Feb). Activation of TRPV3 regulates
inflammatory actions of human epidermal keratinocytes. J
Invest Dermatol 138 365-374. Https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.
gov/28964718/
20. Broad, L.M., et al. (2016). TRPV3 in drug development.
Pharma 9 77.
| 45
12/16/20 10:46 AM
 Formulating | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• Polyesteramines are typically used
as cationic conditioners but their
surface-active properties and ability to
associate with detersive surfactants
suggests irritation reduction and
viscosity-building effects.

• To test these effects, surface tensiometry

was used to quantify the surfactant-
binding capacity of polyesteramines.
Furthermore, preclinical assessments were
made to determine irritation potential in
epidermal equivalents.

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Reproduction in English or any other language of

46 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
© 2021 Allured Business Media.

CT2011_12_Formulating_Fevola_DM.indd 46 12/21/20 2:56 PM

 Brittany M. Pease and Michael J. Fevola, Ph.D.
INOLEX Inc., Philadelphia

Polyesteramine
Performance: Improving Mildness in Rinse-off Cleansers

S urfactants remain among

mankind’s most potent
tools for preventing the
spread of infectious disease
and facilitating well-being
via improved personal
hygiene. The COVID-19 global pandemic has underscored
this fact, as illustrated by public service announcements
promoting frequent hand-washing and the increased
consumer demand for surfactant-based cleansers during
this period, including liquid hand soaps, body washes, etc.1
Nevertheless, the decades-old dilemma of surfactant-
use of hand sanitizers and exposure to disinfecting
products for hard surfaces. Past studies of health
care workers have demonstrated the negative
consequences of repeated surfactant exposure on
the skin, particularly on the hands, and provide
insight into effects that may now extend to the
general population.4, 5
The damage to the skin barrier from harsh
surfactants can manifest itself as everything
from the aesthetically unappealing “dry skin,” to
the more severe irritant contact dermatitis with
clinical symptoms including redness, swelling
induced skin irritation remains ever-present2 ,3 and risks and itching. Skin barrier damage also increases
to skin barrier health are now greater due to the increase susceptibility to allergic contact dermatitis, as
in chronic surfactant exposure resulting from the greater the compromised skin barrier is more permeable
frequency of personal cleansing, coupled with greater to allergenic compounds.6 Thus, the potentially

Vol. 136, No.

Reproduction 1 | January
in English 2021
or any other of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2021 Allured Business Media.
language Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 47

CT2011_12_Formulating_Fevola_DM.indd 47 12/21/20 2:57 PM

 Polyesteramine Performance
Hydrophobically modified polymers can
improve cleanser mildness without
compromising properties or performance.
harmful side effects of surfactants on skin
health must be managed accordingly so that
consumers can realize the profound health
benefits of these ingredients without negative
consequences.
Formulators face the difficult challenge of
creating cleansing products that:
• Are effective at removing dirt and germs yet
also mild to the skin;
• Provide consumer-preferred attributes, such
as easy lathering, to produce copious amounts
of foam; and
• Are economical, to remain competitive in a
highly commoditized category.
Thus, the goal remains: to formulate high-
foaming, harsher commodity surfactants into
high performance cleansers that are mild to
skin. This paper will demonstrate the utility
of polyesteramine conditioning polymers as a
simple solution for increasing the mildness of
surfactant-based cleansers for improved skin
barrier health. By taking advantage of polyes-
teramines’ strong interactions with surfactants,
formulators can use these surface-active
polymers to reduce the irritation potential of
traditionally harsh surfactants without com-
promising clarity or foaming behavior, and
while simultaneously obtaining the benefits
of conditioning and viscosity enhancement in
cleanser formulations.
The global face wash and cleanser market
is anticipated to reach US $33.3 billion,
expanding at a CAGR of 6.0% from 2019
to 2025.
Source: Million Insights
48 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2011_12_Formulating_Fevola_DM.indd 48
Irritation Mitigation
The classic approach to formulating gentler
surfactant-based cleansers involves the selec-
tion of milder surfactants, e.g., sodium cocoyl
isethionate instead of sodium lauryl sulfate; and
the formulation of multicomponent surfactant
blends designed to lower irritation potential,
e.g., via the combination of anionic surfactants
with milder zwitterionic and nonionic variet-
ies.7-9 Although these formulation strategies
provide milder cleansers, they are often accom-
panied by drawbacks such as compromised
foaming performance, which is a critical
element of the consumer experience, and
significantly greater raw material costs. More
recently, methods based on polymer technolo-
gies have proven successful for overcoming the
challenge of surfactant-induced irritation—
most notably, polymer-surfactant association
with hydrophobically modified polymers
(HMPs)10 and the use of polymeric surfactants
comprising multiple amphiphilic repeat units.11
Walters, et al., introduced the concept of
utilizing low molecular weight HMPs to reduce
surfactant irritation potential without nega-
tively impacting other aspects of the cleansing
formulation such as clarity, rheological profile
or foaming behavior.12, 13 The adsorption of
surfactants onto HMPs to form HMP-surfactant
complexes was demonstrated and quanti-
fied using equilibrium surface tensiometry
and helped to articulate the mechanism of
irritation mitigation.
Surfactants in aqueous solutions nor-
mally exist as self-assembled free micelles
in equilibrium with a small concentration of
free monomeric surfactant; however, in the
presence of HMPs, a significant fraction of the
surfactant species binds to the HMP, effectively
reducing the concentration of free surfactant
that is available to interact with skin. In other
words, HMPs provide an additional sacrificial
substrate other than skin for surfactant bind-
ing. This surfactant-binding mechanism was
12/21/20 2:57 PM
 shown to be highly effective at reducing the
ability of surfactant-based cleansers to penetrate
and disrupt the skin barrier.14, 15 Nevertheless,
the HMP-surfactant complexes are dynamic,
surface-active species and can still participate
in phenomena such as the solubilization of
hydrophobic compounds and stabilization of
air-water interfaces (i.e., foaming). As such,
HMPs can be deployed to improve cleanser
mildness without compromising formulation
properties or performance.
Polyesteramines
Polyesteramines are polymers comprised
of repeating units linked by ester bonds (poly-
esters) that also bear amine functionalities,
typically in the form of an amine group located
in the polymer backbone. Polyester-11 (PE-11)a
and Polyester-37 (PE-37)b are branched poly-
esteramines synthesized by the condensation
polymerization of adipic acid, bis-(hydroxyethyl)
methylamine, glycerin and either coconut fatty
acid (PE-11) or isostearic acid (PE-37), produc-
ing only water as a byproduct.16-19 Figure 1
shows the generalized chemical structure of
PE-11 and PE-37.
The polymer backbone is comprised primar-
ily of diethylmethylamino adipate repeat units,
which incorporate tertiary amine functionalities
in the polymer chain. The trifunctional glycerin
a
Kerazyne MB and
b
Clarisilk are products of INOLEX, Inc.
Figure 1. Representative chemical structure for the polyesteramines of interest
RCO = Cocoyl (C8–C18 linear acyl) for PE-11; RCO = Isostearoyl (C18 branched acyl) for PE-37
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2011_12_Formulating_Fevola_DM.indd 49
monomer results in glyceryl adipate branch
units in the polyesteramine chain and the
monofunctional fatty acids are incorporated
as endcaps on the polymer chains. It should
be noted that due to the branched nature of
PE-11 and PE-37, there will be multiple fatty
acyl endcaps on each polymer chain. PE-11
and PE-37 are relatively low molecular weight,
polydisperse polymers, with average molecular
weight values ranging from 2,700-5,800 g/mol.
The polyester backbones are hydrolytically
stable under normal shelf-life and accelerated
stability conditions, yet readily cleaved by
enzymatic action, thus rendering the polyestera-
mines biodegradable in the environment.
Although PE-11 and PE-37 are polar poly-
mers due to their ester and amine functional
groups, they are hydrophobic in nature and
only dispersible in water when the amine
groups are protonated to render the polymers
cationic (see Figure 2).
2 Protonation occurs
when the polyesteramine is dispersed in aque-
ous media and the solution pH is decreased
by the addition of acid. Optimal water solubil-
ity occurs below pH 6.0 and is dramatically
improved in the presence of surfactants.
Unlike permanently charged quaternary
ammonium polymers, e.g., polyquaterniums,
polyesteramines are pH-responsive and bear
transient cationic charges that depend upon the
pH of their local environment. PE-11 and PE-37
are rendered amphiphilic in acidic solutions
| 49
12/21/20 2:57 PM
 Polyesteramine Performance
due to the presence of hydrophilic groups
(cationic protonated tertiary amines) and
lipophilic/hydrophobic groups (the fatty acyl
chain ends) within the same macromolecule.
This amphiphilic character also renders PE-11
and PE-37 surface-active with the protonated
polymers demonstrating a strong affinity for
air-water interfaces.
PE-11, PE-37, and related polyesteramines
were originally developed in the early 2000s
as conditioning polymers for hair and skin
care.16, 17, 20 Their combination of cationic
and hydrophobic characteristics make PE-11
and PE-37 especially useful as substantive
conditioning agents in shampoos and condi-
tioners. However, these same properties also
make PE-11 and PE-37 attractive as HMPs for
mitigation of surfactant skin irritation. The
polymers are well-configured to bind surfac-
tants due to their combination of electrostatic
and hydrophobic association mechanisms.21
For electrostatic association, the cationic
moieties provide sites for anionic surfactants
to bind via ion pairing and in turn, additional
surfactants aggregate with the tail groups of
the bound anionic surfactants via hydrophobic
association. For hydrophobic association, the
hydrophobic acyl end groups of the polyes-
teramines associate with the hydrophobic tail
groups of all surfactants, independent of head
group type, to participate in the formation of
mixed micelles.
Figure 2. Protonation of tertiary amine
group in a diethylmethylamino adipate
repeat unit of a polyesteramine backbone
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CT2011_12_Formulating_Fevola_DM.indd 50
Putting these structural properties of polyes-
teramines to the test, experiments were carried
out in test formulations, as described next.
Materials and Methods
Polyesteramines PE-11 and PE-37 were
utilized in simple surfactant mixtures intended
for use as liquid hand soaps, facial cleansers or
body washes. These mixtures would typically
need to be combined with specialty surfactants
to reduce their irritation potential. The surfac-
tant bases comprised 10% w/w active surfactant
at a 3:1 ratio of anionic to a zwitterionic
surfactant, with 0.5% w/w sodium benzoate as
a preservative. These were adjusted to a pH of
4.7 ± 0.2 using aqueous citric acid. The anionic/
zwitterionic surfactant combinations used were
sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate/cocamidopropyl
betaine (AOS/CAPB); sodium laureth sulfate/
cocamidopropyl betaine (SLES/CAPB); and
sodium methyl cocoyl taurate/cocamidopropyl
hydroxysultaine (SMCT/CAPHS).
Polyquaternium-7 (PQ-7), a copolymer of
acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium
chloride, is a traditional cationic conditioning
polymer typically found in hand soaps and body
washes.22 It was additionally used in this study
for comparisons of polymer-surfactant asso-
ciation and irritation mitigation performance
versus polyesteramine conditioning polymers.
Its recommended starting use concentration
is 1%.23 For viscosity-building experiments,
PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate was employed
as a micellar thickener.24 Formula 1 provides an
example of the types of formulations prepared
for this study.
Surfactant Binding
Researchers at Johnson & Johnson previ-
ously demonstrated that equilibrium surface
tensiometry is a highly effective method for
quantifying the surfactant-binding capacity of
HMPs, and that capacity is directly correlated
to a reduction in irritation potential.10, 12, 25
The same method was employed in the
present study.
Figure 3 shows the surface tensiometry plot
for the AOS/CAPB surfactant system measured
at a pH of 4.5, both alone and in the presence of
varying levels of PE-11. It should be noted that
the concentrations of polymer utilized in the
surface tensiometry experiments were on the
same order of magnitude as would be encoun-
12/21/20 2:57 PM
 Additives that increase the viscosity of
surfactant mixtures are usually desirable,
as they contribute to thickening and reduce the
need for added rheology modifiers.
tered during the in-use dilution of a rinse-off
cleanser. In the absence of PE-11, the AOS/CAPB
surfactant system demonstrated typical surface
tension reduction behavior starting at 72 mN/m
for pure water (not shown) and decreasing with
increasing surfactant concentration until reach-
ing the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
value at ca. 0.004% w/w active surfactant and
ultimate surface tension of 25.5 mN/m.
By contrast, the solutions of PE-11
exhibited starting surface tension values of
36.8-36.5 mN/m, decreasing slightly with

Formula 1. Sulfate-free Gentle Hand Wash

A. Water (Aqua) 69.46% w/w

B. Sodium Benzoate 0.50
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate (39% active) 19.23
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (32% active; Lexaine C, INOLEX) 7.81
Polyester-11 (Kerazyne MB, INOLEX) 2.00
C. PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate 1.00
D. Citric Acid, 20% qs to pH 4.50-4.90

Procedure: Weigh out A. Propeller mix with low-med speed. Add B ingredients, one at a time, ensuring each component is fully incorporated
before the next addition. Add C while continuing mixing and gently heating to 70°C. Mix and heat at 70°C until fully incorporated. Remove
from heat once uniform and cool to RT. Once at RT, adjust pH to 4.5-4.9 with D with continued low-med mixing. Once completed, qs to
100% with water as needed, mix until uniform and discharge to appropriate container.

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 Polyesteramine Performance

increasing starting polymer concentration. Figure 4 shows surface tensiometry plots for
These initial surface tension values at low the AOS/CAPB mixture with 0.2% w/w of either
surfactant concentrations demonstrate the PE-11, PE-37 or PQ-7; the plot of AOS/CAPB in
inherent surface activity of the amphiphilic the absence of polymer is shown as well. PE-37
PE-11 molecule in an aqueous solution. As AOS/ demonstrates slightly greater surface activ-
CAPB is added to solutions of PE-11, the surface ity compared with PE-11, as indicated by the
tension remains relatively constant and does not lower initial surface tension value (35.2 mN/m
begin to decrease significantly until reaching vs. 36.7 mN/m). This increased surface activ-
AOS/CAPB concentrations that are one to two ity is attributed to the more hydrophobic
orders of magnitude greater than the CMC of isostearoyl (branched C18) end groups of the
AOS/CAPB. PE-37 versus the cocoyl (C8-C18 linear) end
This observation confirms the binding of groups found on PE-11. PE-37 also exhibits
AOS/CAPB to PE-11 in solution, as the AOS/ a slightly greater value of CMCp compared
CAPB is not adsorbing at the air-water inter- with PE-11. This is also attributed to greater
face to lower the surface tension. Rather, it is polymer hydrophobicity.
sequestered in solution as a polymer-surfactant Compared with the amphiphilic polyestera-
complex. Only at concentrations much greater mines, the hydrophilic PQ-7 does not exhibit
than the CMC of AOS/CAPB does surfactant surface activity and shows a much lower
binding at the air-water interface become com- surfactant-binding capacity. The initial surface
petitive with the adsorption of the surfactant tension values at low concentrations of AOS/
to the polymer. At these concentrations, there CAPB surfactant mix are identical both in
is a further reduction of surface tension until the presence and absence of 0.2% w/w PQ-7,
it ultimately reaches a minimum at CMCP, the indicating that the polymer is not surface active.
critical micelle concentration of the surfactant The CMCP value for AOS/CAPB in the presence
mixture in the presence of the polymer. of PQ-7 is dramatically lower compared to the
two polyesteramines, indicating that PQ-7 binds
much less surfactant.
The surfactant-
binding capacities of the
polymers are quantified
by the DCMC value,
which is the difference
between the CMC
values in the presence
and absence of the
polymers, i.e., DCMC =
CMCP− CMC, and are
expressed as ratios of
mass of bound surfac-
tant to mass of polymer,
i.e., grams of bound
surfactant mixture/gram
of polymer. Table 1 lists
the values of DCMC
and surfactant-binding
capacities for PE-11
and PE-37 with the
different surfactant
systems used in this
Figure 3. Equilibrium surface tensiometry plots for the AOS/ study. The surfactant-
CAPB surfactant mixture alone and in the presence of various binding capacity ratios
concentrations of PE-11 at pH 4.5 were determined to be
independent of poly-

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 mer concentration within the range of polymer viscosity of 1800 cP at 2% PE-11. PE-37 also
concentrations studied; only the values determined contributed some viscosity build in the AOS/
at 0.2% w/w polymer are shown in Table 1.1 CAPB system without thickener, although the
effect was less pronounced. Viscosities increased
Viscosity-building and dramatically when either PE-11 or PE-37 were
Thickening combined with PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate
in the AOS/CAPB system, indicating synergistic
Due to their amphiphilic character and
viscosity building. Maximum synergy occurred
propensity to associate with surfactants to form
at 2% polyesteramine for AOS/ CAPB.
self-assembled aggregates, polyesteramines are
PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate is reported
expected to influence the microstructure and
to build viscosity by increasing micellar size and
rheology of surfactant solutions. From a product
formulation perspective, additives that
increase the viscosity of surfactant
mixtures are usually quite desirable, as
these additives contribute to product
thickening and can reduce the need for
additional rheology modifiers. To assess
the viscosity-building effects of poly-
esteramines in the surfactant mixtures
of the present study, formulations were
prepared with varying levels (0-3% w/w)
of PE-11 or PE-37 and then thickened
via the addition of a common micellar
thickener, PEG-120 methyl glucose
dioleate, at 0-2% w/w.
Figure 5a-b shows formulation
viscosity as a function of increasing
PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate
concentration for the AOS/CAPB sur-
factant mixtures with either PE-11 Figure 4. Equilibrium surface tensiometry plots
or PE-37, respectively. PE-11 built for AOS/CAPB surfactant mixture alone and in the
formulation viscosity in the absence presence of PE-11, PE-37 or PQ-7 at pH 4.5
of added thickener, reaching a peak

Table 1. Equilibrium Surface Tensiometry Measurements

Surfactant/Polymer CMC or CMCP ΔCMC Surfactant Binding Capacity

Combinations (% w/w) (% w/w) (g surfactant mix/g polymer)
AOS/CAPB 0.00395 – –
+  PE-11 0.144 0.140 0.72
+  PE-37 0.180 0.176 0.88
+  PQ-7 0.024 0.020 0.10
SLES/CAPB 0.00741 – –
+  PE-11 0.109 0.102 0.51
+  PE-37 0.137 0.130 0.65
SMCT/CAPHS 0.0202 – –
+  PE-11 0.0642 0.044 0.22
+  PE-37 0.0755 0.055 0.28

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 Polyesteramine Performance

From a product formulation perspective, additives that increase the viscosity of surfactant mixtures are desireable since they contribute to
product thickening.

bridging micelles.26 The observed synergy

a) is attributed to the enhancement of these
mechanisms by the polyesteramines, which
associate with surfactant micelles via
electrostatic and hydrophobic interactions.
However, at polyesteramine levels greater
than 2%, polymer-surfactant complex for-
mation tends to “consume” surfactant from
micelles and becomes competitive with
micelle formation, resulting in viscosity
decreases as polyesteramine concentration
is further increased.
In Figure 6a-b,
6a-b the formulation vis-
cosities of the SLES/CAPB and SMCT/
b)
CAPHS surfactant mixtures are shown
as a function of the PEG-120 methyl
glucose dioleate concentration for various
concentrations of PE-11 (0-3%). In both
surfactant mixtures, PE-11 demonstrated
viscosity-building effects in the absence
of PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, and
synergistic thickening with the thickener.
Compared with the AOS/CAPB and SMCT/
CAPHS systems, the SLES/CAPB mixture
was more responsive to PE-11, exhibiting
higher viscosity values at lower concentra-
tions of PE-11 and PEG-120 methyl glucose
dioleate, with maximum synergy observed
at 1% PE-11.
Figure 5. Viscosity of the AOS/CAPB as a
function of thickener in the presence of PE-11 (a) Irritation Assessments
and PE-37 (b) Three-dimensional reconstructed
human epidermis equivalents are routinely

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CT2011_12_Formulating_Fevola_DM.indd 54 12/21/20 2:57 PM

 used to evaluate the skin irritation poten- AOS/CAPB surfactant mixture without PE-11
tial of personal care products. Results exhibited the lowest cell viability at 49% and
from these in vitro tissue models are the greatest release of IL-1a: 1,169 pg/mL, indi-
reliable indicators of surfactant irritation cating this sample was the most cytotoxic and
potential and have been correlated with inflammatory of those tested in Figure 7. As
in vivo clinical endpoints for irritation the concentration of PE-11 is increased in the
such as erythema, dryness and barrier formula, a remarkable dose-dependent increase
damage; e.g.,
transepidermal
water loss
(TEWL).27-29 For a)
the present study,
the EpiDerm skin
irritation model
was employed.
Irritation
potential was
assessed by
examining two
endpoints: MTT
cell viability, as
a measure of
cytotoxicity; and
the release of
IL-1a, a pro-
inflammatory
cytokine, using
the methodology
described by
Walters, et al.29 b)
Figure 7 shows
MTT cell viabil-
ity and IL-1a
cytokine release
data for the AOS/
CAPB surfactant
mixture formu-
lated with PE-11
at concentrations
ranging from
0%-3%. Values
for MTT cell
viability data
were normalized
to deionized (DI)
water (negative
control) and cells
exposed to DI
water were con-
sidered to retain Figure 6. Viscosity of the SLES/CAPB (a) and
100% viability. SCMT/CAPHS (b) surfactant mixtures as a function of
Tissues thickener and PE-11 concentrations.
exposed to the

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 Polyesteramine Performance

in cell viability with a corresponding decrease adding 2% PE-11 to the AOS/CAPB mixture;
in cytokine release is observed. The decreases in additional improvements in mildness were
cytotoxicity and inflammatory cytokine release negligible when the PE-11 concentration was
demonstrate the ability of PE-11 to increase the increased to 3%. It is believed that the irritation
mildness of the AOS/CAPB system. reduction becomes dose-independent at higher
Peak irritation mitigation was achieved by polymer concentrations due to the ability of
surfactant to equilibrate
between polymer-
surfactant complexes
and adsorption to the
tissue substrate during
the prolonged exposure
time.
Figure 8 shows
irritation potential data
for various condition-
ing polymers added to
the AOS/CAPB mixture
at 2% as supplied.
Both PE-11 and PE-37
provided significant
improvements in mild-
ness, as evidenced by
the dramatic improve-
ments in cell viability
and cytokine release
endpoints compared
Figure 7. MTT cell viability and IL-1a cytokine release data with the AOS/CAPB
for the AOS/CAPB surfactant base as a function of PE-11 system alone. In
concentration. contrast, PQ-7 provided
no irritation mitigation,
exhibiting irritation
potential comparable to
the AOS/CAPB control
without conditioning
polymer. This is attrib-
utable to its relatively
low surfactant-binding
capacity as a hydro-
philic polymer (see
Table 1).
1
Irritation potential
data for the three
surfactant systems in
this study are shown
in Figure 9
Figure 9. The SLES/
CAPB system was highly
cytotoxic, exhibiting the
lowest MTT cell viability
Figure 8. MTT cell viability and IL-1a cytokine release data for of all systems (4%)
the AOS/CAPB surfactant base without conditioning polymer and the highest level of
inflammatory cytokines
and with 2% (as-supplied) of either PE-11, PE-37, or PQ-7.
release. Although the

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 addition of 2% PE-11 to this system signifi- described experiments (see Figure 5a).
5a The
cantly lowered the irritation potential of the same skin irritation model was used to examine
SLES/CAPB mixture, the improvement in the contribution of PEG-120 methyl glucose
mildness was not as profound as it was for the dioleate to the mildness of a thickened AOS/
AOS/CAPB system. This is due to the inherently CAPB/PE-11 formulation. Figure 10 shows
greater irritation potential of
the SLES/CAPB system and
lower surfactant-binding effi-
ciency of PE-11 for the SLES/
CAPB mixture (see Table 1
Table 1).
SMCT is generally consid-
ered to be a milder anionic
surfactant relative to AOS and
SLES due to its amide-based
head group,30 whereas CAPHS
is comparable to CAPB in terms
of skin irritation potential.31
Compared with the SLES/CAPB
and AOS/CAPB mixtures, the
SMCT/CAPHS mixture was
much milder, exhibiting an
MTT cell viability of 79% and
IL-1a value of 465 pg/mL in the
absence of PE-11. While the
SMCT/CAPHS system pos- Figure 9. MTT cell viability and IL-1a cytokine
sessed a relatively low inherent release for SMCT/CAPHS, AOS/CAPB and SLES/
irritation potential, the addition CAPB, with and without 2% PE-11
of 2% PE-11 to the SCMT/
CAPHS mixture still delivered
a directional improvement
in mildness of this system, as
well as the synergistic viscosity
building with PEG-120 methyl
glucose dioleate described
earlier. This relatively small
increase in mildness is attrib-
uted to the inherent mildness
of the SMCT/CAPHS mixture
plus the low surfactant binding
efficiency of PE-11 for SMCT/
CAPHS (see Table 1). 1
Nonionic surfactants and
micellar thickeners based on
polyethylene glycol (PEG) with
high degrees of ethoxylation are
well-known for their ability to
reduce the irritation potential
of surfactant systems.7, 32 The
nonionic micellar thickener Figure 10. MTT cell viability and IL-1a cytokine release
PEG-120 methyl glucose for AOS/CAPB, with PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate
dioleate was shown to exhibit (1%), with PE-11 (2%), and with PE-11 + PEG-120 methyl
synergistic viscosity building glucose dioleate (2% and 1%, respectively)
with PE-11 in the earlier-

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 Polyesteramine Performance
Polyesteramines can serve as multifuntional ingredients to design cost-effective, high performance rinse-off cleansers.
the addition of 1% PEG-120 methyl glucose
dioleate to the AOS/CAPB system provided a
slight improvement in mildness, as indicated
by an improvement in MTT cell viability from
49% to 65%, and a reduction in IL-1a release
from 1,169 pg/mL to 944 pg/mL; however,
the formulation still exhibited relatively high
irritation potential. The addition of 2% PE-11
significantly decreased the irritation potential
as well as increased the viscosity, versus the
formulation with 1% PEG-120 methyl glucose
dioleate alone.
Conclusion
In addition to the documented performance
of PE-11 and PE-37 as cationic conditioning
polymers, these polyesteramines demonstrate
utility in rinse-off cleanser formulations by
providing irritation mitigation and viscosity-
building benefits. Irritation reduction is
achieved via the polymer-surfactant association
mechanism, and equilibrium surface tensiom-
etry experiments articulate the efficacy of PE-11
and PE-37 for surfactant adsorption in aqueous
solutions due to their amphiphilic character.
The high surfactant-binding capacity of the
polymers corresponds to a significant reduc-
tion in irritation potential, as demonstrated
via a clinically validated in vitro model for
skin irritation. This reduction in irritation
DM27 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2011_12_Formulating_Fevola_DM.indd 58
potential is particularly remarkable because it
demonstrates polyesteramines can be used to
formulate gentler cleansers based on harsher
commodity surfactants, avoiding the need
for additional mild specialty surfactants. In
contrast, PQ-7, which is routinely used as a con-
ditioning polymer in liquid soap formulations,
demonstrated poor surfactant binding capacity
and did not reduce irritation potential.
Both PE-11 and PE-37 inherently contrib-
ute viscosity building characteristics in the
surfactant systems studied here, and exhibit
synergistic viscosity building with the micellar
thickener PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate.
Thus, polyesteramines can serve as multifunc-
tional ingredients to design cost-effective, high
performance rinse-off cleansers.
Acknowledgments: The authors would like to acknowledge
the services of Augustine Scientific for surface tensiometry
measurements, and thank Chris Rulison, Ph.D. of
Augustine Scientific for his helpful insights and thoughtful
discussions of the surface tensiometry results. The
authors also acknowledge the services of the Institute
for In Vitro Sciences for conducting in vitro studies of
irritation potential.
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action?pm=2&folio=56#pg89
10. Fevola, M.J., LiBrizzi, J.J. and Walters, R.M. (2010). A new
approach to formulating mild cleansers: hydrophobically
modified polymers for irritation mitigation. Polymeric Delivery
of Therapeutics. American Chemical Society, Washington
D.C. 221-242.
11. Fevola, M. J., et al. (2013). Next generation mildness for
personal care: Nonpenetrating polymerized surfactants for
cleansing applications. Polymers for Personal Care and
Cosmetics. American Chemical Society, Washington D.C.
105-123.
12. Walters, R. M., Fevola, M. J. and LiBrizzi, J. J. (Jul 13,
2010). Low-irritation compositions and methods of making
the same. US 7,754,666 B2 US. Assigned to Johnson &
Johnson Consumer Companies Inc.
13. LiBrizzi, J.J., et al. (Sep 28, 2010). Low-irritation composi-
tions and methods of making the same. US 7,803,403 B2
US. Assigned to Johnson & Johnson Consumer
Companies Inc.
14. Walters, R.M., et al. (Aug 13, 2012). Cleansing formulations
that respect skin barrier integrity. Skin Barrier Protection
2012. Available at: https://www.hindawi.com/journals/
drp/2012/495917/
15. Hornby, S., et al. (May 2016). Effect of commercial
cleansers on skin barrier permeability. Skin Res & Tech
22(2) 196-202. Available at: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.
gov/26094702/
16. Burgo, R.B., Smith, D.L. and Ching, H.P. (Mar 24, 2005).
Tertiary amine functional complex polyester polymers and
methods of production and use. US 2005/0063938 A1 US.
Assigned to INOLEX Investment Corp.
17. Tang, D. (Sep 5, 2006). Polyesteramine ingredient and use
of same. US 7,101,538 US. Assigned to INOLEX Invest-
ment Corp.
18. On-line INFOBASE ingredient database. (2020). Polyes-
ter-11. Monograph ID 22222. Personal Care Products
Council. Available at: https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/
jsp/IngredientDetail.jsp?monoid=22222
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19. On-line INFOBASE ingredient database. (2020). Polyes-
ter-37. Monograph ID 32935. Personal Care Products
Council. Available at: https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/
jsp/IngredientDetail.jsp?monoid=32935
20. Heldermann, M. and Burch, K. (Sep 14, 2012). Two new
options for hair care-optimized polyesteramine technology
and the next generation of amidoamine conditioning. SOFW
Journal 138(9) 40-42, 44-45. Available at: https://jglobal.jst.
go.jp/en/detail?JGLOBAL_ID=201202237604969414
21. Goddard, E. D. (1999). Polymer/Surfactant interaction: man-
ifestations, methods, mechanisms. Principles of Polymer
Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care 4.
Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York 113-180.
22. Fevola, M.J. (2011). Ingredient Profile—Polyquaternium-7.
Cosmet & Toilet 126(4). Available at : https://www.cos-
meticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/moisturizer/
premium-Profile-of-Polyquaternium-7-211556881.html
23. Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. (2012). Merquat 7SPR
polymer technical data sheet.
24. Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. Glucamate DOE-120
thickener datasheet.
25. LiBrizzi, J.J., et al. (Jan 2, 2007) Methods of reducing
irritation in personal care compositions. US 7,157,414 US.
Assigned to Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc.
26. Kortemeier, U., et al. (2010). Thickening agents for
surfactant systems. SOFW Journal 136 30-38. Available at:
https://personal-care.evonik.com/product/personal-care/
downloads/public/sofw-thickening-agents.pdf
27. Bernhofer, L.P., Barkovic, S., Appa, Y. and K.M. Martin
(Apr 1999). IL-1a and IL-1ra secretion from epidermal
equivalents and the prediction of the irritation potential of
mild soap and surfactant-based consumer products. Toxicol
In Vitro 13(2) 231-239. Available at: https://pubmed.ncbi.
nlm.nih.gov/20654480/
28. Faller, C., Bracher, M., Dami, N. and Roguet, R. (Oct
2002). Predictive ability of reconstructed human epider-
mis equivalents for the assessment of skin irritation of
cosmetics. Toxicol In Vitro 16(5) 557-572. Available at:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/
S088723330200053X
29. Walters, R. M., et al. (Dec 2016). In vitro assessment of
skin irritation potential of surfactant-based formulations by
using a 3-D skin reconstructed tissue model and cytokine
response. Alternatives to Laboratory Animals: ATLA 44(6)
523-532. Avaiable at: https://www.researchgate.net/
publication/316584265_In_Vitro_Assessment_of_Skin_Irri-
tation_Potential_of_Surfactant-based_Formulations_by_
Using_a_3-D_Skin_Reconstructed_Tissue_Model_and_
Cytokine_Response
30. Bahadur, P. and Narasimhan, S. (Jul 1, 2020). Ingredient
profile: Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate—Biosurfactant in
action. Cosmet & Toilet 135(7) 44-DM22. Avaialable at:
https://cosmeticsandtoiletries.texterity.com/cosmetic-
sandtoiletries/july_august_2020/MobilePagedReplica.
action?pm=2&folio=44#pg67
31. Burnett, C.L. (Nov 10, 2017). Safety assessment of alkyl
sultaines as used in cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review.
Available at: https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/
sultaines.pdf
32. Walters, R., et al. (2011). New model into how nonionic
surfactants alter cleanser solution properties to create skin
compatible cleansers. J Ameri Acad Dermatol 64(2).
| DM28
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 Formulating | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• This article explores key aspects for
formulating safe and effective hand
care products.
• In relation, it considers core
aspects of skin barrier
functioning and offers
solutions to protect,
repair and enhance them.

facebook.com/CandTmagazine Cosmetics & Toiletries @cosmeticsandtoiletries

Reproduction in English or any other language of

56 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
© 2020 Allured Business Media.

CT2011_12_Formulating_Radford_DM.indd 56 12/21/20 3:49 PM

 Helping
Hands Building Soothing, Protecting,
Repair and Care Products
Sarah FitzPatrick and Lorna Radford
Enkos Developments Ltd., Leatherhead, England

R ecently, hand care

has experienced an
unprecedented boom
in consumer demand
due to a heightened
focus on sanitization
and moisturization in response to the COVID-
19 pandemic. Due to the pressurized market,
regulations surrounding the manufacture and
distribution of sanitizing products have been
temporarily relaxed by governments1, 2 across
the world. Disruptions in supply have led to
Unfortunately, this amplifies risks to the
consumer due to the heightened potential for
dosage miscalculations or unwanted impuri-
ties (such as benzene and gasoline)4 from
non-cosmetic grades of ethanol. Due to the
pressure on ethanol manufacturing, methanol
contamination has also become alarmingly
widespread and resulted in the U.S. Food and
Drug Administration (FDA) sending warnings
to consumers and companies over thousands
of hand sanitizers, and recalls during the
height of the pandemic.5, 6
several non-cosmetic companies, and indeed To cope with the crisis, the personal care
consumers themselves,3 trying their hand at industry has concentrated on getting more
sanitizer manufacturing. products to market quickly. However, through

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2021 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 57

CT2011_12_Formulating_Radford_DM.indd 57 12/21/20 3:49 PM

 Helping Hands
this, the formulation challenges and manufac-
turing complexities of cosmetic development
have been felt across the world. As we move
into the “new normal,” the focus of formulation
work must be shifted back in line with market
regulations to create high quality, safe products
in the longer term.
In relation, the present article explores key
aspects of formulating safe and effective hand
care products for today’s consumer needs. It
considers core aspects of skin barrier function-
ing and various means to address disruptions
therein. It also offers solutions to reduce irrita-
tion, restore balance and provide protection to
prevent further damage.
Importance of Hand Care
As manufacturing processes changed in
response to the crisis, so too have consumer
behaviors—40% of consumers now wash their
hands between 6 and 10 times a day.7 Regular
use of alcohol-based gels or surfactants is usu-
ally well-tolerated, however, repeated exposure
can lead to chronic cumulative irritant contact
dermatitis due to the removal of skin surface
lipids, denaturing of epidermal keratin, damage
to skin proteins and, in rarer cases, alterations
in the cell membrane of keratinocytes. Addi-
tionally, wearing protective gloves stimulates
excessive sweating and increases humidity,
inflating the inflammatory response toward
irritants such as these.8, 9
The skin barrier acts as the immune system’s
first line of defense.10 Fatty acids in sebum form
an “acid mantle” that inhibits the growth of
pathogenic species.11 The lipid bilayer directly
inhibits some microbes, such as S. aureus, and
supports other beneficial microbiota.12 Struc-
tural cells such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts and
adipocytes form a mechanical barrier against
pathogens and play a key role in expressing
inflammatory cytokines. Immune cells in the
The hand wash market size was US $2.67
billion in 2019 and is projected to reach $4.56
billion by 2027, exhibiting a CAGR of 2.8%
during this period.
Source: Fortune Business
Insights
58 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2011_12_Formulating_Radford_DM.indd 58
epidermis and dermis, such as Langerhans
cells and dermal macrophages, directly tackle
infection. And, the skin’s surface plays host to
an extensive microbiome that modulates growth
of pathogenic bacteria, fungi, viruses, molds
and yeasts.
It has long been known that disruptions to
this complex barrier can increase the risk of
infections for example, in burn patients or those
with a thinning or broken skin barrier, such as
the elderly or those with eczema. Through stud-
ies of health workers, it has been shown that
intensive hand-washing can lead to an increased
incidence of occupational skin diseases,13
mainly because only 22% of health workers are
applying restorative skin cream after washing
to help protect the skin barrier.14 The medical
importance of regular hand-washing cannot be
understated, so to alleviate disruption to the
skin, formulations need to focus on repairing,
protecting and enhancing the skin barrier whilst
allowing for effective cleanliness.
Addressing a
Disrupted Skin Barrier
One of the key goals to consider when
formulating hand care is to mitigate the effects
of dryness, which occurs when skin lipids are
continuously removed from the skin surface.
This is often approached in three ways: reducing
trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) through
boosting or supplementing the Natural Moistur-
izing Factor (NMF); replenishing intercellular
lipids; and optimizing the cellular arrangement
in the stratum corneum to allow efficient diffu-
sion of water through the skin.
Reducing TEWL: The NMF contains a
mixture of water-soluble humectants that draw
atmospheric water into the skin, the most
famous of which is hyaluronic acid. This acts
as a powerful hydrating agent and can provide
rapid and intense hydration, with careful
formulation allowing for both immediate and
long-term hydration through layering of the
molecular weights or using optimized cross-
polymers. The skin’s natural production of
hyaluronic acid can also be boosted using active
ingredients. Examples may include specialized
extracts of prickly pear15 or Australian plums,16
and sugar derivatives such as xylitylglucoside,
anhydroxylitol and xylitol,17 which influ-
ence gene expression related to hyaluronic
acid production.
12/21/20 3:49 PM
 Whilst hyaluronic acid is the most widely
recognized component of the NMF, the bulk
(~40%) is composed of amino acids.18 These
can be added to hand care formulations
through blends that optimize the ratio of differ-
ent amino acids, amino acid derivatives such
as betaine, or through natural extracts such as
certain algae19 that contain naturally high levels
of amino acids. Similarly, the introduction of
humectants such as glycerin, urea or panthenol
(provitamin B5) can be used to supplement the
NMF by reducing TEWL, although these can
introduce formulation difficulties, as will be
discussed later.
Replenishing intercellular lipids: Emol-
lients such as shea butter and olive oil are
regularly included in hand creams to form an
occlusive barrier that helps to both prevent
water loss and replenish the lipids lost through
hand-washing. To optimize lipid replacement,
sebum mimetics such as jojoba oil or squalane
can be added, as well as specifically designed
blends20 rich in linoleic, oleic and palmitic acid
to replicate the composition of lipids in healthy
skin. This concept can also be used within hand
washes. For example, a specialized blend of
lipophilic plant components has been shown to
improve the hydration of skin by 100% when
used at 0.50% in a hand wash, as it has been
developed to mimic both the composition and
structure of the skin, with long-lasting effects on
skin hydration and smoothness.21
While free fatty acids comprise roughly
30% of the intercellular lipids, traditionally
overlooked by hand care are the 40% from
ceramides.22 As hand care increasingly draws
inspiration from luxury facial care, the number
of hand products containing ceramides is grow-
ing. The skin’s natural level of ceramide III, also
known as ceramide NP, has been shown to be
particularly diminished by surfactant-induced
dermatitis.23 It is possible to apply ceramide III
topically through well-formulated hand care
products; however, this can introduce formula-
tion difficulties as ceramide III is only soluble
in oils at elevated temperatures (90°C/194°F).
There are variants designed to overcome this,
for example, by introducing a double
bond to reduce processing temperatures
to 75°C/167°F, or by forming pellets with
cetearyl alcohol for easier processing.
Optimizing cellular arrangement in
the stratum corneum: In hand creams,
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2011_12_Formulating_Radford_DM.indd 59
While an emulsifier can
help to mimic the skin’s
lamellar structure, the skin
structure itself can also
be improved through active
ingredients.
lotions and masks, the choice of emulsifier can
also supplement the skin barrier, with liquid
crystal technology enabling greater compat-
ibility with the skin’s lamellar bilayer lipids due
to their similar chemical structure. Similarly, a
texturizing agent based on C10-18 triglycerides
enhances affinity with the skin’s (triglyceride-
containing) hydrolipidic film, whilst giving the
formulation greater creaminess and longer
playtime.24
While the emulsifier can help to mimic the
skin’s lamellar structure, the skin structure itself
can also be improved through active ingredi-
ents. For example, an exopolysaccharide from
the deep sea extremophile Alteromonas, as a
fermented extract, has been shown to protect
Langerhans cells, reduce the expression of skin
stress marker ICAM-1 and stimulate kerati-
nocyte proliferation, leading to an improved
skin barrier and activation of the skin’s
restructuring processes.25
Reducing Irritation
Soothing hand masks: Although dryness
is the primary concern for consumers, when
the skin barrier is compromised, this leads to
itching and irritation, which will aggravate the
damage even further if consumers scratch or
abrade the skin. Currently, the British Associa-
tion of Dermatologists and National Eczema
Society both recommend using soap and
water for hand-washing—even for those with
More on Hand Hygiene
Be sure to click here for our September
2020 edition.
| 59
12/21/20 3:49 PM
 Helping Hands
eczema or other skin concerns, overriding the
pre-COVID-19 advice to use mild soap substi-
tutes.26, 27 To relieve the irritation this causes to
sensitive skin, intensely soothing formulations
such as overnight hand masks are soaring
in popularity.
Conventionally, creams targeting sooth-
ing claims utilize allantoin, lanolin or urea;
however, these can create heavy, tacky textures,
especially in combination with glycerin.
Responding to concerns over lanolin irritation
from pesticide residue in sheep’s wool,28 the
industry has shifted toward purer grades and
vegan alternatives, and toward optimizing emul-
sifier combinations to reduce greasy textures.
One solution is to use a combination of lecithin,
hydrogenated lecithin and sodium acrylates
copolymer to create a non-tacky texture even
when using 20% glycerin and 5% urea.29
Newer soothing ingredients are available,
and those with data supporting fast results are
particularly suitable for the instantaneous effect
necessary for hand masks. One specific extract
of Helichrysum italicum has been shown to stim-
ulate the release of b-endorphins and decrease
inflammation mediators, with in vivo testing
showing a decrease in stinging sensation within
1 min, and a decrease of 79% versus the control
in 5 min.30 Similarly, an extract of Tasmanian
pepperberry has been shown to dim the inflam-
matory cascade within 5 min; it contains high
levels of rutin, an anti-inflammatory mediator
known to strengthen capillaries.31
Another recent introduction with power-
ful soothing activity is based on a patented
concentrate of peptides from the microalgae
Chlamydomonas acidophila. This ingredient
inhibits the inflammatory response of TNF-
a, prostaglandin E2 and PGE2 release in
response to mechanical stress, such as from
surfactants, and has been shown to help boost
hydration and strengthen the skin barrier.
Interestingly, this has also been shown to
help regulate the skin’s reaction to nickel (a
prominent allergen-mimicker), with potential
use in hand care to alleviate the cosmetic
effects of sensitization reactions from wearing
nickel-containing jewelry.32
As a more traditional alternative, another
ingredient currently trending in skin care is
Centella asiatica, also known as cica, gotu kola
or tiger’s grass. Rich in triterpenes such as
madecassoside and asiaticoside, extracts from
60 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2011_12_Formulating_Radford_DM.indd 60
this plant have been shown to help soothe
reactive skin, and improve skin roughness and
moisturization.33 Used for centuries in Indian
ayurvedic medicine and traditional Chinese
medicine, consumer-led trends indicate ris-
ing interest in these practices and the use
of Centella asiatica in hand care is showing
promising potential.
Microbiome and restoring homeostasis:
While cica remains popular, the dominating
trend is to act upon and optimize the skin’s
microbiome, e.g., by using: prebiotics (food for
microorganisms on the skin); probiotics (the live
microorganisms); and postbiotics (by-products
from the microorganisms that can alter the
skin’s biochemistry). Prior to COVID-19, this
was a rising trend but was limited by the
consumer’s understanding, whereas now it is
becoming more widely understood due to new
experiences with a visually damaged skin barrier
and increased focus on general health.
When the immune system’s microbial layer
is exposed to ethanol or other aggressors, the
balance of beneficial and detrimental bacteria
is disrupted, allowing for the proliferation of
species such as Staphylococcus aureus, lead-
ing to atopic dermatitis,34 or Staphylococcus
epidermidis or Candida albicans, leading to
psoriasis.35 Adding prebiotics, such as inulin and
fructose from chicory root, can help to stabilize
the effects of ethanol to bring the populations of
microbiota back into balance.36
The most popular use of prebiotics in hand
care is b-glucan, which has been shown to boost
barrier strength, moisturize and reduce fine
lines and wrinkles.37 Whilst this material can
be extracted from the cell wall of oyster mush-
rooms,38 it is most commonly extracted from
oat, where the interaction of the oat b-glucan
and antioxidants (avenanthramides) are
responsible for its soothing properties.39 When
colloidal oatmeal is fermented, the bioavail-
ability of b-glucan is increased and postbiotics
such as lactic acid are introduced.40 This type
of new-generation oat technology can help to
create consumer-friendly marketing that links
the recognizable, trusted reputation of oats with
the newer, more formidable claims of fermented
ingredients and the microbiome.
Similarly, one Italian company has fer-
mented aloe vera extracts and shown they
outperform the moisturization given by
conventional aloe vera gels.41 However, while
12/21/20 3:50 PM
 One solution to preventing damage is to make
hand sanitizers more skin-friendly. This poses
challenges, such as the incompatibility of
ethanol with most water-based actives.
the addition of pre- and postbiotics can help
to restore the skin’s microbial layer, it is also
important to consider how cosmetics can be
designed to prevent disruption in the first place.
Preventing Damage
Physical barriers, e.g., hand creams and
lotions: As discussed, using occlusive emollients
can create a physical layer on the skin, helping
to reduce TEWL. Physical barriers, such as
biosaccharide gum-4, are also useful for protect-
ing against external aggressors. This anionic
polysaccharide is designed to form a film on the
skin’s surface, imparting a “second skin” barrier
against atmospheric stress, UV-related stress
and domestic pollution (such as surfactant over-
use and general household chemicals).42
Another interesting complex carbohydrate
has been isolated from Selaginella lepidophylla,
a desert rose with adaptogenic properties. This
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2011_12_Formulating_Radford_DM.indd 61
material has been shown to prevent the transfer
of pathogenic microbes from one surface to
another by forming a hydrophobic film that is
retained even after hand-washing.43
Overcoming alcohol in hand sanitizers:
One clear solution to preventing damage is
to make hand sanitizers more skin-friendly;
however, this poses significant challenges
to the formulator. The most apparent is the
incompatibility of ethanol with most water-
based active ingredients. An ingredient such
as saccharide isomerate can be used to boost
moisturization even within sanitizers having
high alcohol content.44
Incorporating oil-based ingredients also
poses significant challenges although several
approaches can be used to achieve this: using
emollients encapsulated in cellulose beads that
break as the product is rubbed in; developing
sanitizing emulsions with low levels of oils
| 61
12/21/20 3:50 PM
 Helping Hands
Claims associated with hand care are changing, such as SPF and anti-aging, with some ingredient suppliers now performing
efficacy tests specifically on the hands.
dispersed throughout the external phase; or
even using modified, alcohol-soluble emollients
such as PEG-50 shea butter.45
To boost antiseptic efficacy, natural pre-
servatives such as Lactobacillus ferment or
Saccharomyces ferment can provide antibacte-
rial protection;46 although it should be noted
that all products making antibacterial claims
must pass relevant claims and safety testing
to ensure the product is effective and safe for
consumer use.
Improving cleanser mildness: Cleans-
ing products also should be considered
when it comes to formulating products with
reduced potential for skin damage, as they
are a source of aggression for skin. Typically,
anionic surfactants are harsh toward skin
proteins, whereas nonionic and amphoteric
surfactants are aggressive toward the skin’s
lipids. Therefore, a balanced combination is
necessary to respect the overall skin barrier and
prevent disturbance.47
DM29 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2011_12_Formulating_Radford_DM.indd 62
With increasing information about skin
care ingredients, consumer attitudes toward
cleansing products are becoming more nuanced,
with a focus shifting to sulfate-free and natu-
ral ingredients that are sustainably sourced,
particularly in consideration of palm oil and its
derivatives. In response, extremely mild surfac-
tants have been developed using glycolipids to
provide a dense and creamy foam;48 coco- or
lauryl-glucosides for their mildness and ability
to reduce the irritation of additional surfactants;
and surfactants derived from apple or oat amino
acids that have been shown to cause less TEWL
than traditional SLES surfactants.49
Quaternary ammonium compounds can also
be added for their skin-conditioning properties;
however, these can have compatibility issues
with anionic ingredients and some rheology
modifiers.50 Using nonionic surfactants can
help to overcome this, as well as nonionic
thickeners such as PEG-120 methyl glucose
dioleate51 or pH-independent thickeners such
12/21/20 3:50 PM
 as acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate/HEMA
crosspolymer-2.52
Scope for Innovation
As consumers lean away from traditional
formats, the desire for innovative product formats
is increasing. With water-free claims rising in
popularity, the market is open for deviations from
traditional lye soap bars such as oil-based hand
washes, which are inspired by the growing trend
for oil-based shower products.53 To encourage
children to wash hands, interest also has piqued
for slime or jelly formats, which are created by
using natural gums such as carrageenan or gellan
gum; or novel formats to help indicate when the
formulation is ready to be washed off.
In moisturizers, hand cream textures were
previously largely influenced by the seasons;
i.e., heavier emulsions and balms for colder
months, and lighter lotions preferred in summer.
This focus also has shifted toward mindfulness,
pampering and body care in general, which in
conjunction has given rise to new textures such as
whipped creams gaining popularity.24
Also, as mentioned earlier, facial care is
increasingly influencing hand care, with hand
care rituals encompassing day/night creams,
masks, scrubs and serums.24 The claims associ-
ated with hand care are also changing, such
as SPF and anti-aging,24 with some ingredient
suppliers now performing efficacy tests specifi-
cally on the hands. For example, one Plantago
lanceolata leaf extract can be used to make claims
on boosting the elasticity and firmness of skin
on the hands, and reducing the appearance of
hyperpigmented spots on the backs of hands.54
Although the opportunities within hand care
formulation are exciting, the formulation chal-
lenges can be formidable. By approaching hand
care holistically, the skin barrier can be strength-
ened and its disruption minimized, leading to
the conservation of key elements in the skin’s
immunity.
References
1. Duckett, A. (accessed 2020, Aug 25). UK relaxes
rules to speed up sanitizer production. Available
at: https://www.thechemicalengineer.com/news/
uk-relaxes-rules-to-speed-up-sanitiser-production/
2. Mishra, M. (2020, Mar 20). U.S. FDA to relax
hand sanitizer regulation as coronavirus hits sup-
ply. Available at: https://www.reuters.com/article/
us-health-coronavirus-hand-sanitizers/fda-to-relax-hand-
sanitizer-rules-amid-coronavirus-outbreak-idUSKBN217287
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CT2011_12_Formulating_Radford_DM.indd 63
3. Pratt, E. (2020, Jul 6). Why you might want to think
twice before making your own hand sanitizer. Avail-
able at: https://www.healthline.com/health-news/
coronavirus-hand-sanitizer-recipes-risks
4. Hahn, S.M. (2020, Jun 1). Coronavirus (COVID-19) Update:
FDA takes action to protect public health; Increase supply
of alcohol-based hand sanitizer. Available at: https://
www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/
coronavirus-covid-19-update-fda-takes-action-protect-
public-health-increase-supply-alcohol-based
5. Kahn, J. (2020, Jul 2). Coronavirus (COVID-19)
update: FDA takes action to warn, protect consum-
ers from dangerous alcohol-based hand sanitizers
containing methanol. Available at: https://www.
fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/
coronavirus-covid-19-update-fda-takes-action-warn-
protect-consumers-dangerous-alcohol-based-hand
6. Kahn, J. (2020, Jul 27). Coronavirus (COVID-19) update:
FDA reiterates warning about dangerous alcohol-based
hand sanitizers containing methanol, takes additional
action to address concerning products. Available at:
https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/
coronavirus-covid-19-update-fda-reiterates-warning-about-
dangerous-alcohol-based-hand-sanitizers
7. Tandon Copp, L. (2020, Apr 29). 40% of Consumers now
wash their hands 6-10 times a day to avoid COVID-19.
Available at: https://cosmeticsbusiness.com/news/
article_page/40_of_consumers_now_wash_their_hands_6-
10_times_a_day_to_avoid_Covid-19/164583#
8. Beiu, C., et al. (2020). Frequent hand-washing for COVID-
19 prevention can cause hand dermatitis: Management tips.
Cureus 12(4) 7506; doi: 10.7759/cureus.7506
9. Khosrowpour, Z., et al. (2019). Effects of four soaps on skin
trans-epidermal water loss and erythema index. J Cosmet
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10. Chambers, E.S., et al. (2019). Skin barrier immunity and
aging. Immunology 160(20) 116; doi: 10.1111/imm.13152
11. Fluhr, J.W. et al. (2001). Generation of free fatty acids from
phospholipids regulates stratum corneum acidification
and integrity. J Invest Dermatol 117(1) 44; https://doi.
org/10.1046/j.0022-202x.2001.01399.x
12. Moran, J.C. et al. (2017). Comparative transcriptomics
reveals discrete survival responses of S. aureus and S.
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10.3389/fmicb.2017.00033
13. Elston, D.M. (2020). Occupational skin disease among
health care workers during the coronavirus (COVID-19)
epidemic. J Am Acad Dermatol 82(5) 1085; doi: 10.1016/j.
jaad.2020.03.012
14. Yan, Y., et al. (2020). Consensus of Chinese experts on
protection of skin and mucous membrane barrier for health-
care workers fighting against coronavirus disease 2019.
Dermatologic Therapy e13310; doi: 10.1111/dth.13310
15. Mibelle Biochemistry (accessed 2020, Oct 15). Aqua-
Cacteen. Available at: https://mibellebiochemistry.com/
aquacacteentm
16. IFF/Lucas Meyer (accessed 2020, Oct 15). WildPlum
Harvest AF. Available at: https://www.lucasmeyercosmetics.
com/en/products/WildPlumHarvest%E2%84%A2AF
17. Seppic (accessed 2020, Oct 15). Aquaxyl. Available at:
https://www.seppic.com/en/aquaxyl
18. Jokura, Y. (1995). Molecular analysis of elastic properties of
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10.1111/1523-1747.ep12607005
| DM30
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 Helping Hands
19. Codif International, S.A.S. (accessed 2020, Oct 15).
Pheohydrane. Available at: http://www.codif-tn.com/en/
principesactifs/pheohydrane/
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biodine-v/
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product/personal-care/en/products-solutions/concepts/
pages/natural-beyond-green.aspx?valueId=20107&productI
d=16739&download=custpropfile
23. di Nardo, A., et al. (1998). Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-
induced irritant contact dermatitis: A correlation study
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0536.1996.tb02296.x
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products.
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19 (coronavirus): Statement on dry skin and frequent
handwashing to reduce COVID-19 risk. Available at:
https://www.skinhealthinfo.org.uk/statement-on-coronavi-
rus-and-skin-disease-affecting-the-hands/
27. National Eczema Society (2020, Mar 23). Advice
on coronavirus (COVID-19) for people with
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advice-on-coronavirus-covid-19-for-people-with-eczema/
28. Lee, B., et al. (2008). Lanolin allergy: History, epidemiology,
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doi: 10.2310/6620.2008.07060
29. IFF/Lucas Meyer (accessed 2020, Oct 15). SOS Intense
Repair 17.100.02 C190. Available at: https://www.
lucasmeyercosmetics.com/sites/lucasmeyer-corp/files/
formulation/130.SOS_Intense_Repair_-_17.100.02_C190.
pdf
30. Codif International, S.A.S. (accessed 2020, Oct 15).
Areaumat Perpetua. Available at: http://www.codif-tn.com/
en/principesactifs/areaumat-perpetua/
31. IFF/Lucas Meyer (accessed 2020, Oct 15). Tazman Pepper
AF. Available at: https://www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com/
en/products/TazmanPepper%E2%84%A2AF
32. Laboratoires Expanscience (accessed 2020, Oct 15).
Algaenia. Available at: https://static.expanscience.com/en/
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36. Gobiotics BV (accessed 2020, Oct 15). Prebiulin FOS. Avail-
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prebiulin-fos/
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37. Pillai, R., et al. (2005). Anti-wrinkle therapy: Significant
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38. Roelmi H.P.C. (accessed 2020, Oct 15). Plerasan Re-
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activeconceptsllc.com.
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The-Mild-Cleanser-Room-to-Improve-503853551.html
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Glycolipids by Evonik: Rethinking the nature of cosmetics.
Available at: https://personal-care.evonik.com/product/
personal-care/en/products-solutions/glycolipids-by-evonik/
49. Seppic (accessed 2020, Oct 15). Proteol O.A.T. PF and
Proteol A.P.L. EF. Available at https://www.seppic.com/en/
proteol-oat-pf and https://www.seppic.com/en/proteol-apl
respectively.
50. Lubrizol Life Science (accessed 2020, Oct 15).
Celebrating your hands. Available at: https://
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June-4th-Webinar--Celebrating-Your-Hands
51. Lubrizol Life Science (accessed 2020, Oct 15). Glucamate
DOE-120 Thickener. Available at: https://www.lubrizol.com/
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Glucamate-DOE-120-thickener
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pol SMART 3000 Polymer. Available at: https://www.
lubrizol.com/Personal-Care/Products/Product-Finder/
Products-Data/Carbopol-SMART-3000-polymer
53. BASF Care Creations (2020). Post COVID-19 inspiration.
Part 1; Cleanse and care. Marketing brochure. Available
upon request through www.carecreations.basf.com.
54. Sederma (accessed 2020, Oct 15). Senestem. Available at:
https://www.crodapersonalcare.com/en-gb/products-and-
applications/product-finder/product/3067/Senestem
12/21/20 3:50 PM
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 Formulating | C&T ®

The following formulas are offered

for your consideration as a basis from
which to build and create your own. The
information is listed as originally provided
by suppliers. Readers should note that in
some cases, companies or ingredients may
have changed.

Want More Formulas?

Moisturizer Formulary
Click to page DM33 for the expanded
formulary, complete with interactive links to the
free Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference.

INSTANT SOOTHING AND Urea (and) Saccharide Hydrolysate (and) Magnesium

Aspartate (and) Glycine (and) Alanine (and) Creatine
REPAIR MASK (Unimoist U-125 G, Givaudan Active Beauty) 1.00
(Givaudan Active Beauty) K. Fragrance (parfum) 0.50
100.00
This instant soothing and repair formula is a Procedure: Make a gel by combining and heating AB to 75°C. Heat C to 75°C and
molecular mask that treats skin in 15 min to add D and E, in order. Add CDE to AB. Cool and neutralize the gelling agent with
address ‘sun’sequences. F. Add G. Add H. Adjust pH with I. Incorporate J. Add K.
A. Water (aqua) 63.18% w/w
Disodium EDTA 0.05
Propanediol 2.00
INTENSE HYDRATION ELIXIR
Glycerin 2.00 (Grant Industries Inc.)
B. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
A. Water (aqua) 46.05% w/w
(Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.15
Acetyl Glucosamine 0.50
Xanthan Gum 0.25
Disodium EDTA 0.05
C. Ceteth-20 (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate
Ascorbyl Glucoside 0.20
(and) Steareth-20 (Emulium Delta, Gattefossé SAS) 6.00
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20, Croda) 0.20
Cetearyl Alcohol 1.50
Decyl Glucoside 0.10
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1.50
Tromethamine (Tris Amino, The Dow Chemical Company) 0.30
Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate 1.50
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 0.50
Sorbate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Hexylene Glycol
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50
(Jeecide CAP-5, Jeen International Corp.) 1.00
D. Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100 cst,
Butylene Glycol 5.00
Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00
Caffeine 1.00
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane (Xiameter
PEG-6 (Carbowax PEG 300, The Dow Chemical Company) 3.00
PMX-0345 Cyclosiloxane Blend, Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00
Water (aqua)/Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene
Cyclopentasiloxane/Dimethicone Crosspolymer (DC 9040
Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer/Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran
Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow Corning Corp.) 3.00
Extract/Phenoxyethanol/Sodium Benzoate
E. Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2.00
(InvisaSkin RB, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00
F. Water (aqua) 0.45
Glycerin (and) Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Water (aqua)
Sodium Hydroxide 0.05
(and) Phenoxyethanol (Granhydrosil PSQ-W-GL (NP),
G. Yellow 5 (Unicert Yellow 08005-J, Sensient Cosmetic
Grant Industries Inc.) 3.00
Technologies) 2.24
Water (aqua) (and) Propanediol (and) Polyglutamic Acid
Red 4 (Unicert Red 07004-J, Sensient Cosmetic
(and) Phenoxyethanol (Mega Moist 2MKD,
Technologies) 1.12
BC Research Company Inc.) 5.00
H. Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic
Bis-PEG-8 Dimethicone (Gransil VX-409, Grant Industries Inc.) 2.00
Acid (Unigard OA-94, Givaudan Active Beauty) 1.20
B. Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Butylene Glycol
I. Water (aqua) 0.28
(and) Water (aqua) (and) Decyl Glucoside (Gransil SiW-066,
Sodium Hydroxide 0.03
Grant Industries Inc.) 25.00
J. Water (aqua) (and) Propyl Gallate (and) Gallyl Glucoside (and)
Squalane 1.00
Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside (Unisooth EG-28,
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Givaudan Active Beauty) 2.00
(Aristoflex AVC, Clariant Int., Ltd.) 0.10
Panthenyl Triacetate (and) Ethyl Linoleate (and) Oleyl Alcohol
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer/
(and) Tocopherol (Uniprotect PT-3, Givaudan Active Beauty) 3.00
Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel 600, Seppic) 1.50
100.00
Procedure: Weigh A in the main kettle equipped with marine type propeller. Mix until
homogeneous. Weigh B in a side kettle. Mix well. Add B to A slowly with mixing.
Mix until homogeneous.

62 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_Moisturizer_Frmlry_fcx.indd 62 12/21/20 3:54 PM

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CT_AD_091119.indd 1 4/17/20 4:44 PM

 EXPANDED Moisturizer Formulary
S.O.S. RESCUE CREAM
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
This formula is specially designed for sensitive skin,
leaving a second skin effect and providing rich texture.
A. Water (aqua) 66.00% w/w
Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol (Dermofeel
PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.10
B. Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and)
Pullulan (Siligel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.50
C. Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and)
Palmitic Acid (Biophilic H, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 4.00
D. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 4.00
Diisostearyl Malate (Schercemol DISM Ester,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 4.00
Shorea Stenoptera Butter (Lipex 106, AAK) 6.00
Behenyl Alcohol (Lanette 22, BASF SE) 2.00
Diisopropyl Adipate (Schercemol DIA Ester,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 6.00
Stearyl Heptanoate (and) Stearyl Caprylate
(Dub Solid, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 2.00
Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower)
Seed Oil (Vitapherole E1000, VitaeNaturals) 0.10
E. Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (Verstatil PC,
Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 1.10
F. Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Extract
(and) Water (aqua) (Exo-H, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00
Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Dextran (and)
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 (Neutrazen, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00
Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas
Ferment Extract (Abyssine 657, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.20
100.00
Procedure: Prepare A. Sprinkle B into A under high stirring for 5 min (rotor stator ho-
mogenizer). Heat AB and D separately to 75-80°C. Add C into AB under medium
stirring for 20 min. Add D to batch under high stirring (rotor stator homogenizer)
for 3 min to emulsify. Cool formula under slow stirring to 40°C. Add E under slow
stirring. Add F, one by one, under slow stirring until the product is homogeneous.
DM33 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2101_Moisturizer_Frmlry_fcx.indd 64
ANTI-AGING CREAM WITH
PUERARIA MIRIFICA ROOT EXTRACT
(Bio-Botanica Inc.)
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Phenoxyethanol 0.70
Caprylyl Glycol 0.50
Ceteareth-20 1.50
Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract (and) Coffea Arabica
(Coffee) Fruit Extract (and) Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
(and) Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract (and) Punica Granatum
Extract (and) Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract (and)
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (and) Propanediol
(Superfruit Blend, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 2.00
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract (Cucumis sativus
(Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 2.00
Mineral Oil 7.00
Stearic Acid 9.00
Cetyl Alcohol 4.00
Propylene Glycol 3.00
Pueraria Mirifica Root Extract (Purestrol, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 3.00
Stearyl Alcohol 2.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00
Isopropyl Palmitate 0.25
B. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 0.30
Glycol Monostearate SE 0.60
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 0.08
FD&C Yellow No. 6 0.20
Procedure: In main beaker, mix A under lightening mixer agitation and create a vortex.
Heat to 60°C. In a separate beaker, mix B to 60°C. Combine B into A and mix for
10 min or until fully dispersed at 60°C. Begin cooling under agitation. When batch
reaches 40°C, add C; properties: appearance = light, peach-colored cream; pH
= 5.5-6.5.
INSPIRED BY NATURE
ECOCERT/COSMOS FACIAL CREAM
(Acme-Hardesty Co.)
Inspired by nature, this silky feeling facial cream is based
on Ecocert/COSMOS-compliant ingredients, including
the Sharon Biomix product. This preservative solution
enables formulators to easily stabilize soft and rich
textures not easily achieved in natural formulations.
Sharon Biomix II, comprising Sharon’s Biosecur blend
and natural phenethyl alcohol, is recommended at a use
level of 0.8-0.9%. It does not impact formula stability.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Guar Gum 0.20
Glycerin 4.00
B. Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 20.00
Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Glycerin (and) Citrus Reticulata
(Tangerine) Fruit Extract (and) Citrus Aurantium Amara
(Bitter Orange) Fruit Extract (and) Citrus Sinensis (Orange)
Peel Extract (and) Ascorbic Acid (and) Citric Acid (and)
Lactic Acid (and) Water (aqua) (Sharon Biomix Pure II,
Sharon Laboratories Ltd.) 0.80
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside
(Montanov 68, Seppic) 5.00
Procedure: Heat water to 45-50°C. Add A to water while stirring until fully dissolved.
Heat B while stirring until melted and unified. Homogenize AB at approx. 55°C.
12/21/20 4:10 PM

PURIFYING CALMING
DEAD SEA MUD MASK
(Acme-Hardesty Co.)
Dead Sea mud (silt) is known for its therapeutic benefits
thanks to natural minerals. Nevertheless, mud masks
are prone to contamination. While high preservative
concentrations could be considered, these pose risks
for irritation and formula instability. SharoMix AM25,
however, demonstrating antimicrobial activity, passed
the challenge test in this “preservative-free” formula.
Containing 20% Dead Sea mud, this formula detoxifies
skin and soothes and enriches it.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder 0.10
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl
Taurate Copolymer 0.20
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10
Glycerin 5.00
Silt 20.00
B. Cetearyl Alcohol 10.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00
Stearic Acid 0.50
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 1.00
Tocopherol 0.05
Phenoxyethanol (and) Chlorphenesin (and) Caprylyl Glycol
(and) Didecyldimonium Chloride (Sharomix Amplify AM 25,
Sharon Laboratories Ltd.) 0.80
Ceteareth-20 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (Cosmowax BP,
J and P, Croda) 4.00
Procedure: Heat water to 45-50°C. Add remainder of A in the order listed with stirring,
ensuring full dissolution before adding the next. Heat B to 50-60°C while stirring
until melted and unified. Homogenize AB together at approx. 55°C.
BEAUTIFUL SKIN CREAM
(Bio-Botanica Inc.)
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Carbomer 0.50
B. Propylene Glycol 4.50
Glycerin 3.00
Trisodium EDTA 0.10
C. Cetyl Alcohol 6.00
Ceteareth-20 5.00
Beeswax 2.00
Isopropyl Palmitate 2.00
Cyclohexasiloxane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane
(Dow Corning 345 Fluid, Dow Corning Corp.) 1.00
Cyclotetrasiloxane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane
(Xiameter PMX-0344 Cyclosiloxane Blend,
Dow Corning Corp.) 0.50
BHT 0.05
D. Water (aqua) 5.00
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice 1.00
Ascorbic Acid 1.00
E. Pueraria Mirifica Root Extract 2.00
Phenoxyethanol 0.70
Hyaluronic Acid 0.01
Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50
F. Triethanolamine qs
Procedure: Add A to main vessel and let sit until completely wet, then mix at moderate
speed with propeller mixing blade until uniform. Add B to A with mixing following
each addition. Once batch is uniform, start heating to 75°C ± 5°C. Maintain 75°C
± 5°C and add C with mixing until all solids are melted and batch is uniform. Once
batch is uniform, continue mixing and remove heat, cooling batch to 40°C. Premix
D and add to batch at 40°C with mixing. Continuing mixing and cooling batch to
25°C, then add E in order. Use F to adjust pH (and viscosity) to 5.5 ± 0.5; proper-
ties: appearance = opaque, non-flowing cream to off-white to yellow color; odor
= herbal, consistent with ingredients; specific gravity = 1.010; viscosity (Cannon
LV2000 #4, 1.5 rpm, 1 min) = 42,470 cps; pH = 5.0-6.0.
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Moisturizer_Frmlry_fcx.indd 65
EXPANDED Moisturizer Formulary
PURE BALANCE MICELLE FOAM
(CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH)
Cleansing is not just about removing dirt or makeup
from the skin. Today’s consumer wants much
more. After cleansing, skin needs to look clean and
immaculate. In this formula, CutiBiome CLR supports
skin in regaining its natural microbiota balance while
perceivably reducing sebum. Also, MultiMoist CLR is
a smart moisturizer that instantly protects skin from
drying out.
A. Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
(and) Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate (and) Polyglyceryl-6
Ricinoleate (Tego Solve 61, Evonik Industries AG) 6.00% w/w
Octyl Dodecanol (and) Leptospermum Scoparium Oil (and)
Piper Nigrum (Black Pepper) Seed Extract (and) Magnolia
Officinalis Bark Extract (CutiBiome CLR, CLR Chemisches
Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 1.50
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside (and) Water (aqua) (and) Sodium
Cocoyl Glutamate (and) Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate (and)
Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Citric Acid (Symbio Solv Clear,
Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 1.80
B. Water (aqua) 83.30
C. Glycerin 3.00
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Benzoic Acid
(Verstatil BOB, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 1.00
Fructooligosaccharides (and) Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract
(and) Water (aqua) (MultiMoist CLR, CLR Chemisches
Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00
Sodium Hydroxide 0.25
Fragrance (parfum) 0.15
100.00
Procedure: Dissolve A with stirring. Slowly add B to A under stirring. Add C and adjust
pH value to 5.3 with D. Add E as desired. Directions for use: Apply the solution
on a cotton ball and sweep it across the whole face or use it in a pump foamer.
SNOW-GLITTER PEEL-OFF MASK
(CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH)
This blue shimmering peel-off mask gently removes
dead skin cells and impurities and leaves the skin with
a soft, cashmere-like feeling.​MultiMoist CLR increases
the production and activation of the vitamin D receptor,
making it a smart moisturizing solution, especially
for an indoor generation. ProRenew Complex CLR
effectively supports and protects the skin microbiota
for a healthy, even complexion. AnnonaSense CLR
sustainably stabilizes a healthy homeostasis in skin,
improving its appearance and the perception of
well- being.
A. Water (aqua) 43.99% w/w
Polyvinyl Alcohol 11.00
B. Glycerin 5.00
Alcohol 20.00
C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 (and) Polyacrylamide
(Sepigel 305, Seppic) 4.00
Water (aqua) 5.80
C. Fructooligosaccharides (and) Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root
Extract (and) Water (aqua) (MultiMoist CLR, CLR
Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00
Anona Cherimolia Fruit Extract (AnnonaSense CLR,
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate (ProRenew Complex CLR,
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00
D. Fragrance (parfum) 0.21
Colorants 1.00
100.00
| DM34
12/21/20 4:10 PM
 EXPANDED Moisturizer Formulary
Procedure: Slowly charge polyvinyl alcohol into the water under agitation. Begin to
raise the temperature to 80-90°C. Keep stirring at this temperature for 30-60 min
until completely dissolved. (*Be careful to avoid a rapid temperature increase, as
this often causes severe foaming). Cool to RT. Premix B, stir until homogeneous
and add to A. Stir until homogeneous and add C in the given order, one after
another. Add D as desired with moderate stirring. Add colorant. Directions for
use: Apply a thin layer to dry skin and leave for about 10-15 min (until the mask
dries and lifts at the edges). Peel off mask from one side.
ANTI-GRAVITY EYE PRIMER
(Elementis)
This eye-lifting serum lightly glides onto the under-eye
area, leaving a cushioned feel with a moisturizing effect.
It can be applied before applying makeup. Bentone
Hydroclay 1100 improves the consistency and stability
of the formulation. It also gives a tightening effect due
to the high concentration as the product dries on the
skin. Meadowquat HG-70 provides moisturization,
leaving a smooth skin feel.
A. Water (aqua) 69.80% w/w
Butylene Glycol 18.00
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Bentone Hydroclay 1100,
Elementis) 6.00
B. PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate
(Meadowquat HG-70, Elementis) 2.50
Sodium Hyaluronate (Lipo Hyaluronic Acid 1% Solution,
Vantage Specialty Ingredients) 1.00
C. Preservatives 1.70
Water (aqua) (and) Sorbitol (and) Ascophyllum Nodosum
Extract (and) Asparagopsis Armata Extract (Aldavine 5X,
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 0.50
D. Citric Acid qs to 100.00
Procedure: Add B to A with propeller mixing. Add C to AB and continue stirring.
Add D and mix.
CLAY CLEANSING CREAM
(Elementis)
This beautiful clay cleanser applies lightly to the skin
and is washed off to leave a wonderfully soft, clean feel.
Bentone Hydroclay 1100 builds body and viscosity,
while also helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt
and debris.
A. Glycerin 18.00% w/w
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Bentone Hydroclay 1100,
Elementis) 6.00
B. Water (aqua) 56.50
Coco-Glucoside 1.50
Meadowfoamamidopropyl Betaine (Betafan M, Elementis) 1.00
Triethyl Citrate (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Benzoic Acid
(Verstatil TBG, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 1.00
Dyes 0.10
C. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 7.00
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 3.40
Glyceryl Stearate SE 3.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Fancol Shea Butter,
Elementis) 1.00
D. Fragrance (parfum) 0.50
E. Citric Acid qs
100.00
Procedure: Premix A. Combine B and heat to 75°C. Add A to B and mix until uniform.
Combine C and heat to 75°C. Add C to AB with Silverson homogenizer. Transfer
to propeller mixer and cool to 30°C with stirring. Add D to main batch with stirring.
Check pH and add E if necessary.
DM35 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2101_Moisturizer_Frmlry_fcx.indd 66
YOUTH RECOVERY, ENERGY
ENHANCING (EE) CREAM
(Givaudan Active Beauty)
This proactive youth recovery night cream and energy-
enhancing cream is based on Neodermyl, a renewable
energy source. Purple in color, this night cream has a
somewhat thicker consistency, can be easily applied
and is absorbed immediately by the skin. The delicate
fragrance supports the calming and soothing properties
of the cream. Other claims include: redensifying,
regenerating, revitalizing and rehydrating.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Glycerin 2.00
Butylene Glycol 2.00
Disodium EDTA 0.05
B. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Carbopol
Ultrez 20 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.15
Xanthan Gum 0.25
C. Ceteth-20 (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate
(and) Steareth-20 (Emulium Delta, Gattefossé SAS) 4.00
Dimethicone/Dimethicone Crosspolymer (9041 Silicone
Elastomer Blend, Dow Corning Corp.) 3.00
Cetearyl Alcohol (Lanette O, BASF SE) 2.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2.00
Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate (DPPG, Gattefossé SAS) 4.00
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Cetiol SB 45, BASF SE) 1.00
Ethyl Linoleate (Safester A-75, Givaudan Active Beauty) 2.00
Panthenyl Triacetate (D-Panthenyltriacetate, Givaudan
Active Beauty) 1.00
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate, BASF Care Creations) 0.50
Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100 cst,
Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00
D. Water (aqua) 0.57
Sodium Hydroxide 0.06
E. External D&C Violet No. 2 2.14
Red 4 0.68
F. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
(euxyl PE 9010, schuelke inc.) 1.00
G. Fragrance (parfum) 0.12
H. Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Methylglucoside Phosphate
(and) Copper Lysinate/Prolinate (Neodermyl,
Givaudan Active Beauty) 1.00
Urea (and) Saccharide Hydrolysate (and) Magnesium
Aspartate (and) Glycine (and) Alanine (and) Creatine
(Unimoist U-125 G, Givaudan Active Beauty) 3.00
Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract (and) Glycerin (and)
Haberlea Rhodopensis Leaf Extract (and) Yeast Extract
(Unisurrection S-61, Givaudan Active Beauty) 3.00
Procedure: Separately combine A and B. Mix A with B and heat to 75°C. Heat C
to 75°C. Add C to AB. Cool and adjust pH with D. Add E, F and G in order to
batch. Add H to batch.
NIGHT LITE REPAIR CREAM
(Grant Industries Inc.)
This formula features Gransil VX-418, a multifunctional
wax that melts upon contact with skin; Granpowder
USQ for soft focus effects; Gransil EP-9 emulsion
elastomer powder; Gransurf 50C-HM and Granactive
Retinoid, for anti-aging effects.
A. Water (aqua) 50.60% w/w
Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced
Materials, Inc.) 0.20
Triethanolamine 0.20
Steareth-21 (Procol SA-21, Protameen Chemicals Inc.) 2.00
Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone (Gransil VX-418,
Grant Industries Inc.) 20.00
12/21/20 4:10 PM

Glycerin 3.00
Butylene Glycol 2.00
B. Polymethylsilsesquioxane/HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone
Crosspolymer (proposed) (Granpowder USQ,
Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00
Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
(Gransurf 50C-HM, Grant Industries Inc.) 1.00
Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
(Granactive Retinoid, Grant Industries Inc.) 1.00
Dimethicone 6.00
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Arlacel 165, Croda) 1.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00
C. Polysilicone-11 (and) Water (aqua) (and) Laureth-12 (and)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (Gransil EP-9,
Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00
D. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010,
schuelke inc.) 1.00
100.00
Procedure: Combine A in the main kettle and heat to 70~75°C, prop mixing until
uniform. Combine B in support kettle and heat to 70~75°C. Mix until uniform. Add
B into the main kettle while mixing. Continue to mix for 15~20 min. Add C into
the main kettle while mixing and mix until uniform. Start cooling with side sweep.
Add D at 40~45°C and continue to cool until 30~35°C.
PREMIUM FIRMING SLEEPING
MASK FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
(The Hallstar Company)
This soft gel-cream gently hydrates skin all night long.
Sensolene Care DD reinforces the cutaneous barrier to
protect against external aggressors. Olivem 1000 and
Eurol BT smooth and revitalize. Skin looks and feels
fresh in the morning.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Glycerin 3.00
Allantoin 0.40
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.30
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.10
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer 0.80
B. Water (aqua) 25.00
C. Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 1000,
The Hallstar Company) 0.50
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Moisturizer_Frmlry_fcx.indd 67
EXPANDED Moisturizer Formulary
Lauryl Olivate (Sensolene Care DD, The Hallstar Company) 2.00
BHT 0.10
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract 1.00
D. Cyclomethicone 8.00
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol (Silsoft 1215 HV,
Momentive Performance Materials Inc.) 2.00
Dimethicone/Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone
Crosspolymer (KSG-16, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.) 1.00
E. Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 1.00
F. Sodium Hydroxide qs
G. Preservatives qs
Fragrance (parfum) qs
H. Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (and) Water (aqua)
(Eurol BT, The Hallstar Company) 0.25
Bisabolol (RTD Alpha-Bisabolol Natural,
The Hallstar Company) 1.00
Procedure: Prepare A at RT and disperse the thickeners. Heat B separately to 75-
80°C. Prepare C separately and heat to 70-75°C. When uniform, add C to B and
homogenize. Cool to 40°C using a water bath while stirring. Add A to BC and
homogenize. Add D, E, F, G and H, one by one, and homogenize until uniform;
properties (@25°C): appearance = shiny gel-cream; viscosity (10 rpm, Brk. RVDV-
E, Sp. T-C, after 24 hr at RT) = 25,000-30,000; pH = 6.0-7.0.
SKIN REPAIR CLEANSING GEL
FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
(The Hallstar Company)
This cleansing gel for sensitive skin contains Sensolene
Care DD and Biochemica Mango Butter Ultra to
support moisture retention. Olivem VS Feel gives skin
elasticity and hydration. Olivem 460 helps to maintain
protective lipids, leaving skin clean and refreshed, never
taut or dry.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Glycerin 3.00
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.45
Xanthan Gum 0.50
Disodium EDTA 0.05
B. Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters (Olivem 300, The Hallstar Company) 4.00
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate (and) Sorbitan Palmitate
(and) Sorbitan Oleate (Olivem VS Feel, The Hallstar Company) 4.00
Glyceryl Stearate (HallStar GMS Pure, The Hallstar Company) 0.53
| DM36
12/21/20 4:10 PM
 EXPANDED Moisturizer Formulary
PEG-100 Stearate (HallStar PEG 4400 MS, The Hallstar
Company) 0.47
Lauryl Olivate (Sensolene Care DD, The Hallstar Company) 3.00
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter (Biochemica Mango
Butter Ultra, The Hallstar Company) 2.00
BHT 0.10
C. Sodium Coco-sulfate (RTD Coco Sulfate, The Hallstar
Company) 10.00
Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate (Olivem 460,
The Hallstar Company) 10.00
D. Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (and) Water (aqua)
(Eurol BT, The Hallstar Company) 0.30
Preservatives qs
Procedure: Prepare A and homogenize to disperse the thickeners. Prepare B. Heat
A and B separately to 70-75°C. Add B to A. Homogenize in a cold water bath to
cool to 40°C. Add C and homogenize. Add D and mix until uniform; properties
(@25°C): appearance = shiny white gel-cream; viscosity (Brk, RVDV-E, T-B, 10
rpm after 24 hr at RT, mPa·s): 3,000–5,000; pH = 5.0–6.0.
MOISTURIZING AND
RESTRUCTURING CREAM
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
B. Carbomer 0.15
C. Butylene Glycol 3.00
D. Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben
(and) Methylparaben (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)
Propylparaben (Phenonip, Clariant Int., Ltd.) 0.80
Glycerin 2.00
E. Glyceryl Stearate 5.00
Cetyl Alcohol 1.00
Sorbitan Stearate 0.50
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.00
Myristyl Myristate 3.00
Polysorbate 60 2.00
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 1.00
Dimethicone 0.04
F. Triethanolamine 0.11
G. Fragrance (parfum) 0.02
H. Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Vibrio
Exopolysaccharide Extract (proposed) (Exo-T,
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 2.00
Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Extract
(and) Water (aqua) (Exo-H, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 2.00
I. Triethanolamine qs
J. Water (aqua) qs
DM37 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021
CT2101_Moisturizer_Frmlry_fcx.indd 68
Procedure: Pour A into the main tank. Add B to A. When powder is at the bottom
of the tank, stir and heat. Start the mixer and stir until mixture is homogeneous.
Begin to heat. Add C to AB while stirring. In a separate tank, combine D. Add D
to ABC and heat to 75°C. In a separate tank, combine E while stirring. Heat to
75°C. Add E to ABCD and stir moderately. Cool to 40°C and add F. Continue to
stir and heat to 30°C to obtain a smooth texture. Add G to batch. In a separate
tank, combine H and adjust pH using J. The pH of HJ must be equal or slightly
over the pH of the batch. Stirring slowly, add HJ to batch until mixture is homo-
geneous and smooth. Compensate for evaporation.
BOSWELLIA SERRATA CREAM
(Sabinsa)
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00%w/w
Carbomer 0.27
Glycerin 4.00
Methylparaben 0.20
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.01
B. Cetyl Alcohol 3.50
Retinyl Palmitate 0.10
Ascorbyl Palmitate 0.20
Stearyl Alcohol 3.50
Stearic Acid 6.50
Glyceryl Stearate 2.50
PEG-100 Stearate 2.50
Isopropyl Palmitate 6.00
Vitamin E Acetate 1.00
Dimethicone 0.10
Propylparaben 0.10
C. Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract (Boswellin CG, Sabinsa) 5.00
D. Triethanolamine 2.00
Water (aqua) 0.40
E. Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.30
Water (aqua) 1.00
Procedure: Mix water in A with carbomer under propeller agitation until dissolved.
Add remaining ingredients, then start heating to 72-77°C and continue mixing
until all solids are dissolved. In a separate container, charge cetyl alcohol and
add remainder of B in order. Heat B to 72-77°C until dissolved. Mix B with A,
maintaining 72-77°C. Add C under propeller agitation to the batch. In a different
container, prepare D by dissolving TEA in water and mixing with ABC. Keep
mixing until C is dissolved while maintaining 72-77°C. In a separate container,
combine E until dissolved, add to main batch, mix and cool to 35-40°C. Pack
at this temperature.
ANTIBACTERIAL FACE WASH
(Sabinsa)
A. Sodium Laureth Sulfate 5.00%w/w
Methylparaben 0.20
Propylparaben 0.02
Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.10
B. Steareth-10 Allyl Ether/Acrylates Copolymer (Salcare SC80,
BASF SE) 4.00
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
Sodium Hydroxide 2.00
C. Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (Oleuropein (80%), Sabinsa) 0.50
Water (aqua) 2.0%
Procedure: Combine B. Add A to B and mix. Add C and mix homogeneously.
ULTRA-HYDRATING DAY CREAM
(Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.)
This weightless, nourishing, PEG-free formula is a silky,
fast-absorbing gel cream that imparts an immediate
cooling sensation and provides the skin with intense
soothing hydration. The combination of polyglycerol-
modified emulsifiers KSG-710 and KF-6104 produces
a stable w/o emulsion that contains a large amount of
water. In this formula, the water phase has a smaller
12/21/20 4:10 PM

particle size due to the higher level of KF-6104, lending
to the nourishing skin feel. DMF-1.5 cs helps with the
fast absorption while elastomer gel USG-110 helps to
stabilize the system and add nice cushion.
A. Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer (KSG-710,
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.) 4.00% w/w
Dimethicone/Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
(USG-110, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.) 1.00
Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
(KF-6104, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.) 1.50
B. Dimethicone (DMF-A6 cs, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.) 3.00
Dimethicone (DMF-1.5 cs, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.) 7.00
C. 1,3-Butylene Glycol 5.00
Glycerin 10.00
Sodium Citrate 0.20
Sodium Chloride 0.50
Phenoxyethanol 1.00
Water (aqua) 66.80
D. Red 6 qs
Yellow 5 qs
E. Fragrance (parfum) qs
100.00
Procedure: Combine A and mix well using a dispersing blade. While mixing, add B
to A and mix until uniform. Combine C and mix well. Emulsify by adding C to AB
under low shear (~400-900 rpm). Increase speed to 1800 rpm for 5 min. Add D
to batch and mix until well blended. Add E and mix until well blended; properties:
appearance = light peach gel-cream with translucent film; viscosity (Brookfield
Heliopath RV Spindle T-C, speed 5, 1 min @ 25°C): initial = 93,000; 24 hr = 90,000
cps; stability: 4°C @3 mos = passed; 25°C @ 3 mos = passed; 45°C @ 3 mos =
passed; 50°C @ 3 mos = passed; freeze/thaw, 3 cycles (-20°C @ RT) = passed.
WATER HYDRATING STICK
(Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.)
This solid emulsion moisturizing stick has a refreshing,
high-cooling effect. It provides instant relief for tired
and stressed skin. The combination of KSG-710 and KF-
6028 supports a stable w/o stick formula that contains a
large amount of water. KMP-590 powder helps to reduce
the tackiness of the wax and enhances a silky, smooth
after feel to skin.
A. Polyethylene Wax 2.00% w/w
Candelilla Wax 0.50
Ozokerite 5.00
Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries®
CT2101_Moisturizer_Frmlry_fcx.indd 69
EXPANDED Moisturizer Formulary
Neopentyl Glycol Dioctanoate 6.50
Isononyl Isononanoate 6.00
Dimethicone (DMF-A6cs, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.) 6.00
Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer (KSG-710,
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.) 5.00
PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (KF-6028,
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.) 1.50
B. Water (aqua) 56.80
Phenoxyethanol 0.70
Glycerin 5.00
C. Polymethylsilsesquioxane (KMP-590, Shin-Etsu
Silicones of America, Inc.) 5.00
100.00
Procedure: Combine A and heat to 80°C-83°C with mixing using a dispersing blade.
Combine B and heat to 80°C-83°C with mixing. Slowly add B to A and emulsify
for ~10 min. Add C to AB and mix until uniform. Pour into mold at 75°C-83°C;
properties: stability: RT @ 3 mos = stable; 50°C @ 1 month = stable; freeze/thaw
(-20ºC/RT) @ 3 cycles = stable.
MOISTURIZING BODY CLEANSER
(Ajinomoto North America, Inc.)
This gentle body cleanser provides natural
moisturization to the skin via sodium PCA and
hyaluronic acid.
A. Sodium Lauroamphoacetate 15.0% w/w
Coco-Betaine 15.0
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 10.0
Sodium PCA 1.0
Glyceryl Laurate 2.0
Water (aqua) qs
Potassium Cocoyl Glutamate 25.0
B. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid 0.1
Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid
(and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl K 701, schuelke inc.) 1.0
Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract (Actiphyte of Nettle, Active
Organics Inc.) 1.0
Sage Infusion (proposed) 1.0
Balm Mint Infusion (proposed) 1.0
C. Citric Acid qs
Procedure: Combine A with mixing and heat to 75°C. Once dissolved, add B to
A in order. Cool to RT by mixing and adjust pH to 5.3 with C.
| DM38
12/21/20 4:10 PM
 Advertiser Index | C&T ®

January 2021 |
Volume 136, number 1

Arista Industries, Inc.

19
info@aristaindustries.com
www.aristaindustries.com

Bio-Botanica, Inc.
C2
info@bio-botanica.com
www.bio-botanica.com

Campo Research Pte Ltd.

14
sales@campo-research.com
www.campo-research.com
(p. 15)

Givaudan
C4
www.givaudan.com/fragrance-beauty/
active-beauty

Grant Industries
1
info@grantinc.com
www.grantinc.com

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

3
info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com

Silab
31
silab@silab.fr
www.silab.fr

Sophim
5
www.sophim.com/en/

64 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 1 | January 2021

CT2101_Advertiser_Index_fcx.indd 64 12/18/20 11:01 AM

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