MAY–JUN 2021

DUDDON VALLEY
CLIMBING
LAKELAND ROCK
STATE OF THE ART SOUTHERN SANDSTONE
EASY CLIMBS PENMAENBACH, WALES
ANNAPURNA II FIRST ASCENT
GEAR REVIEW BASE LAYERS
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EDITOR’S THOUGHTS

SPRING IS HERE
Welcome to another fantastic issue of Climber. With the spring weather
upon us and the country hopefully moving forward in opening up
and ending restrictions we can all start to look forward to getting out
climbing more. I for one am itching at the prospect of getting back on
rock for the first time in ages, albeit at a lower level than I was hoping
to be. But that’s what happens when you’ve not climbed for shy of four
months. All my plans for being climbing fit to hit the ground running
have been thrown out of the window at the start of the year for the
second year in succession – last year was a layoff after surgery. Before
you say anything, yes, so has everyone else’s plans and it could be
much worse. I can’t begin to imagine what people who have lost loved
ones have been going through and if you have been affected, you truly
have my heartfelt sympathies.
One of the hardest things about jumping back on the rock is redefining
your expectations of what’s possible and making sure you are safe in doing
so. To that end, Mark Reeves has written some timely advice in his Climber’s
Coach slot where he focuses on climbing after a lay-off and being kind to
yourself. Start slowly and tick a few easier routes to get yourself back in
the flow and the habit of good ropework and good protection placement is
the way forward. Mark also wrote the easy climbs article about Penmaenbach
Quarry, a great venue with a stunning view above the A55 on the North
Wales coast. The sport climbing is excellent and even includes grades down
to F2 so what’s not to like? Though you may have to wait a little while longer
for restrictions to lift if you don’t live in Wales.
I love the Lake District, especially the quieter corners and least trodden
valleys, and one of my favourite places is the unspoilt Duddon valley in the
southwest corner of the region. So, with a fantastic new guidebook due out
containing over 1,300 routes, it seemed fitting to feature an article on it.
The grade profile of the routes works out at roughly one-third Moderate to
Severe, one-third MVS to HVS and the final third in the Extremes grades.
So, plenty of easier grade climbing to go at don’t you think?
Elsewhere in the magazine, Noel Dawson examines the first ascent of
Annapurna II in the Himalaya, whilst Abi Chard delves into the Pinnacle
Club’s history as the national women’s rock-climbing club celebrates its
centenary this year. Daimon Beail writes about the current state of play
on England’s southeast sandstone climbing area including the hotspots of
Harrison’s Rocks, Bowles, High Rocks and Stone Farm and the impact the
pandemic, and the resultant popularity, created on the area. Finally, just
before we went into lockdown at the start of the year, I managed to pay
yet another visit to Froggatt Edge and the brilliant bouldering there, often
following in the footsteps of climbing legends whilst climbing them.
Until next time, be safe.
David

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Daimon Beail
Daimon authored the Southern Sandstone Climbs guidebook
and a keen sandstone climber since the late 90s. He’s a
member of the Harrison’s Rocks Management Group and
involved with numerous access and conservation initiatives,
especially on BMC owned land. Daimon jointly runs www.southernsand-
stoneclimbs.co.uk and related social media.
John Holden
A climber for fifty years, John has spent thirty of them helping
Al Phizacklea with guidebook production for the Fell & Rock
Climbing Club, starting with the Dow, Duddon and Slate guide.
Work on the latest Duddon guide started some ten years ago.
Now retired from lecturing, he has spent the last three years finishing it off.

Abi Chard Mark Reeves

Abi has been a member of the Pinnacle Club since 2012 Mark is an active climber and author. He is based in North Wales
and is part of the team coordinating the Pinnacle Club’s where he runs a small business coaching climbing through
centenary activities. She started climbing in her 30s and snowdoniamountainguides.com He has a particular passion
has been trying to make up for lost time ever since. for North Wales trad climbing, especially the sea cliffs of Gogarth.

Editor: David Simmonite – Editorial email: climbereditorial@gmail.com

Gear: Bruce Goodlad, Kate Scott, Keith Sharples
Design: Rod Harrison
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www.climber.co.uk MAY–JUN 2019

2021 3
Contents

news
6 F9b+ for Will Bosi, Euro sport round-up, Barmasse completes
Matterhorn’s ‘sextuplet’ solo.

IntervIew
12 Keith Sharples catches up with Alpinist, Simon Gietl.

DestInatIons | Crags | Features

22 Annapurna II – First Ascent
Noel Dawson examines the first ascent of this Himalayan mountain.

26 Duddon Valley Climbing

With a new guidebook due we take a trip around this climbing
festooned and quiet Lake District valley.

34 Easy Sport – Penmaenbach Quarry, North Wales

Highlighting the first-rate lower grade climbing above the A55 on 26
the Welsh coast.

40 The State of the Art – Southern Sandstone

Daimon Beail on the state of play in England’s south-east including
Harrison’s Rocks

52 Leading the Way – The Pinnacle Club turns 100

The national women’s rock-climbing club celebrates its centenary
this year. Abi Chard delves into the club’s history.

BoulDerIng
58 Froggatt Edge Bouldering
A tour of the superb problems around the main crag at this iconic
Peak District location.

traInIng & skIlls

64 Petzl Skills
The best way to clip quickdraws.

66 The Climber’s Coach

Mark Reeves focuses on climbing after a lay off and being kind
to yourself.

gear
74 Base Layer Review
Bruce Goodlad looks at base layers, a crucial element for any
layering system.
34
regulars
16 UK Classics
Bishop’s Rib (E1 5b), Chair Ladder, Cornwall, England.

18 The Climber’s Voice

You never know until you go by Tony Howard.

48 James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini

James drills down on his approach to the mental aspect of climbing.

70 Book Reviews
Boulder Britain, South Wales Rock and Morocco Rock guidebooks
plus Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage and I’m Alan Hubbard.

79 BMC Update
The latest news from the British Mountaineering Council.

82 Climber Legends
Vic Saunders.

Front Cover: Peter Sterling on the third pitch of Bryanston (VS 4b) at Wallowbarrow Crag,
Duddon Valley, Lake District. Photo: David Simmonite
40 58

4 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk

headlines

BOSI CLIMBS FIRST ASCENT

OF KING CAPELLA (F9b+)
Will Bosi, the 22-year old from Edinburgh, has claimed the first ascent of King Capella
at Siurana, Spain and has proposed the grade of F9b+. If confirmed, it would make him
the first British climber to climb the grade (and the sixth climber in the world).

Will has been in Spain since December 2020 as a part of his
preparations for the 2021 IFSC World Cup Lead competition
season and longer-term campaign preparations for the next
Olympic cycle.
Will climbed La Capella (F9b) in the same sector in early 2020
which made him the first Brit to climb the grade abroad and during
this trip added another two first ascents to the area, La Furia de Jabali
(F9b) and Last Night (F9a) but King Capella, originally bolted by David
Brasco, represented a significant step up in difficulty according to Will.
It took him 10 sessions to complete the route and he said of it:
“King Capella has the same style of the area with a series of boulder
problems stacked on top of one another, however, this route was
another level for me. For comparison, it took me three sessions to
complete La Capella, whereas it took me three sessions to unlock
the first sequence on King Capella.”
As well as the intense, fingery and powerful climbing typical of the
area, the middle of the route was unlocked by Will with an explosive
dynamic move before moving straight into another tough sequence.

6 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk

 Will Bosi cuts loose on King
Capella (F9b+), Siurana,
Spain. Photo: Band of Birds
EXPLORER 2

Will again: “With powerful moves that don’t let up and having big SHIELD
all-points-off moves, King Capella was like I got to be Chris Sharma
for a day, it was amazing.”
He continues: “After Moscow (European Championships), the purpose
of the training trip was to, firstly, reset after a long and tough Olympic
MONTEBIANCO 2
campaign and, secondly, to put in a base level preparation for the
upcoming IFSC World Cup Lead season. Spain has the some of the highest
concentrations of hard sport climbing and I was also able to project first
ascents in order to force myself to try unconventional beta to solve hard
problems which is similar to what appears in World Cups.”
On top of Will’s first ascents, he amassed a staggering tick list in Spain
with notable repeats including First Ley (F9a+), Ley Indignata (F9a third
ascent) and Estadio Critico (F9a). Will kept his bouldering in check by
establishing a new Font 8c boulder in Siurana as well as repeating Bhai
Bon (F8b+), Bhai Po (F8b+), Bhai Kakata (F8b+/c), Bhai Ji (F8b+) and, finally,
Hurrikuto (F8b).
Will fully complied with Covid regulations throughout his time in Spain
during the ongoing pandemic and is now back in the UK in quarantine
before resuming training for the GB Climbing Lead selection. We plan
to catch up with Will in the near future for an interview to find out more
about him but in the meantime a couple of snippets.
At 17, Will became the youngest Brit to climb F9a at the time with
Rainshadow at Malham Cove. Since then, Bosi has become one of the
leading lights of GB Climbing and in 2018, he reached the final of IFSC
Chamonix Lead Climbing competition. This was the first time a British
male had reached a lead final since 1998. ■

Hervé Barmasse et Lise Billon

Arête Nord du Grand Flambeau, Mont Blanc, Alpes
headlines
Buster Martin redpointing
Aitzol (F8c) at Margalef,
Spain. Photo: Andrew Pawlby
8 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk
MARTIN RACKING UP
HARD SPANISH SENDS
Buster Martin has also been cranking
hard over the winter at Spain; one
of his last redpoints was the fourth
ascent of El Potro – a recent Ondra
F9a at the Laboratory Sector, Margalef.
El Potro was first climbed last autumn
by Adam Ondra. Frustrated by the
conditions generally at Margalef
during his visit, Ondra was unable to
repeat his goal route, Perfecto Mundo
(F9b+) so he had to settle for a few
other ‘easier’ routes including the
first ascent of El Potro – a short but
powerful pitch – on the Laboratory
Sector. Following the first ascent,
Alex Megos nipped in for the second
ascent.
Buster has been plugging all winter at
Margalef on the harder routes and his
ascent of El Potro was the fourth. Buster
commented: “Burled my way up this in a
few tries yesterday. First session on the
meat of the route but was well acquaint-
ed with the easier top and bottom
sections from First Ley and Bumbaye.”
That’s a cracking performance from
Buster but the story didn’t stop there,
however, Buster graded El Potro F8c+,
not the F9a that Ondra offered. “It just
didn’t feel like F9a compared to other
routes at the sector,” Buster told Climber.
He offered what he thought might be the
explanation for the original F9a grade: “I
do think conditions have a big impact on
this bit of rock, the last couple of months
it has just soaked up the humidity and it
seems to stay semi damp for a long time
after rain and everything felt a lot
harder. So, the FA might have been done
in these poor conditions.” A number of
other climbers who have been on the
route agreed with Buster’s assessment.
Having redpointed First Ley (F9a+)
previously, Buster’s main objective for
the winter was First Round, First Minute
(F9b). Sadly, Buster’s been having a hard
time on FRFM as he explained: “First
Round has been a bit frustrating as it was
wet for six weeks or so. The top boulder
is feeling great but I’m struggling with
the section on First Ley.” Other highlights
from his trip have been repeats of a few
other routes including Bumaye (F8c+)
and a slew of F8cs including 24 Hour
Party People, Alzheimer Brothers, Mistic
and Aitzol. He also pushed his flash
grade up a notch to F8b+ by repeating
Bongada - Rodillar (F8b+). And, finally,
Buster managed to redpoint Jungle Speed
(F9a) over at Siurana. There are no
worries about the grade of that dropping
as Buster said: “Feels solid at the grade
after the [hold] break.”
Ridal gets thiRd
ascent of the Boss
Taking full advantage of cold but dry weather Billy Ridal has made
the third ascent of The Boss (Font 8b+) at Yarncliffe in Derbyshire.
Ned Feehally did the first ascent of The Boss last year, named as a
nod to the late gritstone ace, John Allen, and the second fell to dark
horse, Micky Page.
Usually Billy is focused on the competition circuit but when comps were
cancelled last year he switched his attention to climbing outside. As we
reported previously, on Peak limestone last October, Billy climbed Superman
Sit (Font 8b+), Keen Roof (Font 8b) and Fat Lip (Font 8b) all in a day.
It was about that time that Billy first had a look at The Boss. He got close
but was stopped by bad weather. Finally, he managed to get there on dry
rock after a decent spell of good weather and was full of praise for the
problem: “Kudos to @nedfee for the vision on this one, it’s easily the most
enjoyable sequence of hard moves I’ve done on grit, sustained and power-
ful from start to finish with technical foot beta to keep you sucked in.”
We asked the question, what felt the hardest aspect of The Boss for
you? “Linking it all together. No single move is exceptionally hard, but
it’s on you from the moment you pull on and is sustained the whole way,
I had to consciously force breaths where possible as your whole body
is squeezing. Getting through it all without making any mistakes and
having enough left for the final moves is the hard part for sure.”
You can read a longer Q and A with Billy in the news section of the
Climber website (www.climber.co.uk)

Pou climBs guggen-hell

(F9a+/b), the haRdest sPoRt
climB on malloRca
The 44-year old Basque climber, Iker Pou, has made the first free ascent
of Guggenhell. Graded F9a+/b and with a revised name of Guggen-Hell it
is now the hardest sport climb on Mallorca. The route is in a huge, super
steep, cave and is a mammoth 50m in length thus requiring an abun-
dance of stamina, huge finger strength to cope with two-finger pockets
en route and a figure-four move thrown in for good measure.

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HEADLINES
Hervé Barmasse soloing Via
De Amicis on the Matterhorn.
Photo: Hervé Barmasse
BARMASSE SOLOS DE
AMICIS ON MATTERHORN
In early March, Hervé Barmasse soloed the Via De Amicis
route on the Matterhorn straddling the Swiss/Italian border,
thus becoming the first to solo all six ridges on the
mountains. The other ridges he had soloed previously (start-
ing in 2002) were the Zmutt, Hornli, Furggen, Cresta del
Leone and Deffeyes routes.
Leaving from Breuil Cervinia on March 3rd, Hervé reached
the base of the Matterhorn and climbed Via De Amicis alone.
Hervé was confident about his climb saying: “I knew I could do
it and so I did it by experiencing every grip and climbing lightly
where the rock was crumbly. There was only one stretch, on the
10 MAY–JUN 2021 www.climber.co.uk
famous Crétier passage, where I used the rope for a few metres
applying a technique invented by myself and that, in the event of
a fall, was anyway not certain that would spare me from more
serious consequences but, even so, this choice was considered.
In the end, everything went well and at 4.30pm I was back in
Cervinia, where my parents invited me in for a beer.”
The ‘sextuplet’ of the Matterhorn ridges was first climbed
(roped) by Luigi Carrel with various partners. Marco Barmasse
(Hervé’s father), climbing with various Guides managed to
climb them all in winter. No one, before Hervé, had managed
them all solo.
O’DRISCOLL AND GRIFFIN CLIMB
NEW FITZ ROY ‘KING LINE’
Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll and Jon Griffin have climbed
a multi-pitch off-width on Cerro Chalten in Patagonia
and described as a ‘King Line’. The 500m route on the
South Face of Cerro Chalten (Fitz Roy) follows the first
two pitches of The Colorado Route but then continues
directly up the crack line above. Both O’Driscoll and
Griffin have been resident in El Chalten for over a year
so they named the route in honour of the El Chalten
residents.
The route didn’t go down without a struggle, however,
both O’Driscoll and Griffin suffered minor frostbite –
O’Driscoll’s toes requiring treatment afterwards. The
South Face is in the shade most of the day so the pair
climbed much of the route in the cold. They reported that
whilst the crack would take #6 Camalots they only had
two with them so much of the route had monster
run-outs. Finishing their climb at 3:40am they had a few O’Driscoll and Griffin
hours bivouacking on the summit with a single sleeping after their summit bivi.
bag but no stove nor tent after which they descended. Photo: Jon Griffin

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Christian Adam

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www.climber.co.uk MAY–JUN 2021 11

the climber interview
Simon Gietl. Photo:
Salewa/Matteo Mocellin
– Storyteller Labs
12 may–jun 2021
SIMON GIETL ALPINIST
Keith Sharples talks to Simon to unearth his passion for the big challenges which drive him forwards.
A former carpenter, Simon Gietl
discovered climbing aged 18 and
soon after became a Mountain
Guide. His first expedition in 2009
took him to Patagonia where,
with Roger Schäli, he climbed
several routes including the first
ascent of Feel Strong but not
Immortal, a 600m/A3+/6c/M5
challenging and serious new
route. More expeditions followed
to Greenland (2010), Patagonia
again (2011) and then later in
2011 to Arwa Spire in the
Garhwal Himalaya. The tragic
CHILDHOOD, EARLY CLIMBS AND BECOMING A GUIDE
You were born in 1984 and, although
you spent your childhood living in
the South Tyrolean mountains, you
only discovered climbing as a chance
www.climber.co.uk
accident and death of a team
member meant that expedition
was abandoned albeit they
returned (successfully) in 2012.
Trips to China, Peru and
Alaska followed as did India in
2017 where he successfully
climbed Shivling via a new route.
With hard climbing of M6 and
WI5, Shiva’s Ice is said to be
comparable to a Colton-McIntyre
route on the Grand Jorasses on
Mont Blanc, albeit at altitude.
Simon was awarded Mountain-
eer of the Year in Italy in 2016.
encounter when you were 18 and
working as a carpenter. How did that
come about and what was it like dis-
covering climbing as a young adult?
In August 2020, Simon did the
first free, in-a-day ascent, of Can
You Hear Me, a spectacular and
difficult route giving F8a+/b
climbing on the West Face of
the Cima Scotoni in the Italian
Dolomites. Having originally
soloed the first (non-free) ascent
of this route, Simon’s latest
ascent of this route is his
ultimate tribute to a lost friend.
In the autumn he also made
a remarkable solo ascent of
Lacedelli, a 585m F7a on the
same face.
Near a well-known starting point of many
well-known climbing routes, an elderly
man gave me a lift in his car and told me
about his heroic ascent of the Great Peaks.
At the same time he explained to me that
sport climbing was only for softies and
that Alpine climbing would make a real
man out of you. This triggered a great
deal of curiosity and fascination in me.
A short time later, my brother and I started
climbing together with our clique of
friends. Even before that I was always
active in sports, but no other sport
captivated me as much as climbing.
The first time I felt a fire in me and from
then on it burned only for climbing.
How did you set about learning to
climb? Did your early climbs go well
and do you have fond memories
from those days?
My friends, my brother and I had never
done a climbing course or anything like
that before. With the help of books and
learning from mistakes, we gradually
acquired the necessary technical skills
and a minimum of understanding of
safety. Soon we were trying harder routes
and taking greater risks. After a failed
winter ascent of an Alpine route in the 7th
grade, my climbing partner and I were
hospitalised for 10 days with frostbite.
It was noteworthy that we had a huge
amount of courage to try this route, even
though we only managed the first sport
climbing route, a grade F6b redpoint, a
few days earlier in a comfortably warm

climbing hall. Although this time was
marked by hair-raising experiences,
ultimately all came to a happy ending.
Three years after starting to climb
you became a Mountain Guide thus
transforming your life and opening
up completely different horizons.
How did that come about?
It quickly became clear to me that carpen-
try is my job, but not my calling. I const-
antly felt the inner urge to be out and
about in the mountains. As a result, the
decision to become a Mountain Guide
matured relatively quickly. I wanted to
combine my passion and enthusiasm with
my further professional development.
Are there any conflicts between
working as a Mountain Guide and
the climbs you wish to do personal-
ly? How do you manage that?
In the beginning, when my main income
was guiding, it was not always easy to
do the balancing act between three
points – mountain guide, personal
projects (first ascents and expeditions)
and my family. Fortunately, I am now in
the very privileged position of being able
to cover my living expenses thanks to
well-known sponsors and lectures and, if
need be, to be able to concentrate fully
on the respective projects. In addition, it
is currently possible to spend days with
my family without worrying financially.
This time with my family is an important
retreat and the social space where I can
switch off and recharge my batteries.
Family time is important to me and
gives a lot in return.
EXPEDITIONS AND FIRST
ASCENTS
So on to expeditions and first
ascents. Let’s talk generally first
about what drives you to do first
ascents and go on expeditions?
The drive that I feel is certainly a mix of
different aspects. The main points to be
emphasized are curiosity, the thirst for
adventure, the challenge and the very
satisfying feeling of looking for and
realising something new. In particular,
I would like to emphasize the point of
creativity in this context. Sometimes it
is not enough just to look; you also have
to see something. It is similar with
expeditions. The urge to try something
new or to climb a mountain along a
new line that you can draw yourself is
something very fulfilling.
Expeditions then. You’ve had
numerous trips to many places
including Greenland, Patagonia,
India, China, Peru, Alaska and
Pakistan. Is it possible to say
which expedition and or country
was most satisfying and why?
Each expedition was unique in its own
way. Greenland was perhaps one of
the most special. The topographical
conditions made this expedition so
IntervIew – SImon GIetl
complicated and unique. Transport, Simon Gietl cuts loose
logistics and supply made it tricky through the desperate roof
and sometimes quite nerve-wracking. pitch on the free ascent of
Even the three-day journey in a small, Can You Hear Me (F8a+/8b 21
motorised inflatable boat across the pitches), West Face of Cima
sea, along thousands of icebergs, was Scotoni, Dolomites. Photo:
a great adventure in itself. Salewa/Storyteller Labs
Flipping that over, which of your
expeditions was the hardest and
why?
The expedition to India (Arwa Spire)
2011 was the hardest, our friend Daniel
Ahnen had a fatal accident. He fell into
a crevasse. However, we were only able
to recover a broken pole. The hardest
decision was to stop the search and not
to look any further and just come back
as a party of two.
You have done many first ascents
over the last decade both on
expeditions and within the Europe-
an Alps. In August 2015 you joined
Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli for
the final push on Odyssee on the
infamous North Face of The Eiger.
With several pitches of F7c+ to
F8a+ and over a dozen pitches in
the F7a to F7c, Odyssee is a serious
and demanding route. What was
that like to be involved on that first
ascent climbing on a route of that
scale and difficulty of route?
It was a great honour for me when Roger
and Robert asked me if I would like to
help them. We had a fantastic time 6
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 13
the climber interview
Simon Gietl free soloing the
Lacedelli (F7a, 585m) on the
Cima Scotoni, Dolomites.
Simon first climbed this classic
route (roped of course) back
in 2003 and it was during his
ascent of Can You Hear Me
that thoughts turned to a
free solo of Lacedelli : “Every
time I looked into the right
wall, I inevitably had to imagine
what it would be like to climb
alone and unsecured through
the wall. The fire started to
blaze slowly but surely...”
Photo: Christof Ursch
14 may–jun 2021
on the North Face, we were on the
wall for a month when the weather was
good. There were many unforgettable
bivouacs. It is definitely a serious and
difficult route with delicate climbing. By
and large, it is an Alpine sport climbing
route for which you should take a certain
amount of experience.
Which of your other first ascents
stand out to you and why?
It is really very difficult for me to single
out one of the first ascents, as there
are several that have grown dear to my
heart and that have burned a deep trail
into my memory because of the first
ascent process (Neolit UIAA 9-, Stigmata
UIAA 8+, Inheritance of the Fathers UIAA
9, Oblivion UIAA 9...). It would be easier
to answer the question the other way
around.
Can you say what you look for
in a route?
First and foremost, a route should be
obvious and logical. Understandably,
everyone has a different point of view
and a different understanding of logic and
the possible creative course of a route.
www.climber.co.uk
Natural conditions and your own
physical and mental constitution are
the decisive limiting factors. Often
I fall into my imaginary lines and feel
something like love at first sight and
feel the unquestioned desire to try this
route and realise it as best as possible.
You’ve climbed widely with many
other Alpinists as well as your
brother Manuel. In January 2021
you did the first ascent of Sorejina,
a hard winter route with Manuel.
Is it a different dynamic climbing
with your brother?
Manuel will always be my big brother,
whom I appreciate and respect very
much. A serious climbing accident forced
him to take a long break from climbing
during which he also discovered his
passion for other sports. However, his
passion for climbing never died. After
many seasons, he was able to strengthen
himself mentally and physically to the
point where he can carry out first Alpine
ascents. I am happy every time we tie
ourselves into the same rope but
something has changed, now I feel more
responsibility towards him than before.
WEST FACE OF CIMA SCOTONI
The West Face of the Cima Scotoni
in the Dolomites has been the
centre of attention for some of
your most recent challenges.
Firstly, why the Dolomites and,
secondly, why Cima Scotoni?
The Dolomites are on my doorstep plus,
at the same time, it is my favourite area.
I also started climbing there. Scotoni was
always in my mind – Lacedelli, Scotonatica
Galattica, Sorcerers’ Apprentices, Unarmed,
Dibona, Agoge... Numerous well-known
and sometimes almost legendary routes
make the wall so attractive.
You climbed Can You Hear Me (F8a+/
8b 21 pitches) in memory of your
good friend Gerhard ‘Gerry’ Fiegl.
Having rope soloed the first (non-free)
ascent in 2018 you then started to
dream about doing a free, in-a-day,
redpoint ascent. What training/pro-
cess did you follow to prepare your-
self physically for this free ascent?
I spent many hours of boulder sessions
hanging on my climbing board following
a strict and tough indoor training regime.
I also spent a lot of time on the route.

The difficult part was connecting 21 serious,
delicate and very delicate pitches. A great
challenge for the body and especially for morality.
Concentration, self-confidence and the necessary
flow merged into the necessary mix of skills to
manage the route.
How does Can You Hear Me compare in terms
of difficulty and commitment to other routes
you’ve done – like say Odyssee on The Eiger?
Can You Hear Me is certainly the top of my first
ascents so far. Firstly, and on the one hand,
because I did it alone, it’s a very serious route.
The delicate protection and the delicate rock
make it so demanding and demanding. Secondly,
the story behind the route. The difference on this
first ascent was to have reached the big goal of
Can You Hear Me. The free ascent was the icing
on the cake and the absolute highlight of the first
ascent process. On Odyssee, the first ascent could
only be reached with the free ascent. The sporting
aspect was more important. At the Scotoniwand it
was the REAL adventure. The aim was to realise
the most adventurous line possible.
In mid-October last year you then again
ventured to the Cima Scotoni to free solo
Lacedelli, a 585m F7a route. You first
climbed this in 2003 and you’ve climbed
it on a number of occasions since. What
attracts you to that route and why was
it important for you to solo it?
For me it is one of the most beautiful routes in the
Dolomites and for me it was the first long, exposed
Simon Gietl is sponsored by various companies including Salewa. His website is www.simongietl.it
ALPINE HEMP
TECHNOLOGY
/
N AT U R A L LY S T R O N G
Simon Gietl on the first ascent of MFG
(M9, WI6, 120 m), a new mixed climb at
Rein in Taufers, Dolomites, Italy. He
climbed it with Vittorio Messini in early
2018. Photo: Salewa/Storyteller Labs
and difficult route that I climbed back in 2003. At
that time I could not climb it free. Then, three years
ago I was able to lead a client up the route. With
a harness, of course, but even then I wondered
what it would be like to climb the route without it.
Very few climbers solo big routes in the
Dolomites; what qualities do you think
are necessary to do solo there?
Firstly, feel good. Secondly, a certain approach
including having a plan, training and mental
preparation. Thirdly, don’t let go.
How hard did Can You Hear Me and
Lacedelli push you mentally and what
did you do to prepare yourself mentally
for the challenges both presented?
There were two different challenges. Even
though I climbed Lacedelli without any safety,
I was convinced that I could climb it. Before that,
I studied the most difficult moves down to the last
detail. That also gave me the security of being
back with my family in the evening. I climbed
Can You Hear Me solo, but the combination with
the security and the uncharted territory in front of
me made it much more serious. My attitude was
also different than with the Lacedelli. I felt how
important it was to me to do this line for Gerry
and for that I was ready to give a lot, no, give
everything. Sometimes I was even afraid of my
courage and my determination.
What are your plans for the future?
One does not speak of plans. Let’s tell stories ;-) ■
uk CLaSSiCS
BISHOP’S RIB
Climbers on the second pitch
of the superb Bishop’s Rib
(E1 5b), Chair Ladder, Cornwall.
Photo: David Simmonite
16 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk
BISHOP BUTTRESS, Chair Ladder, CORNWALL
a southwest classic climb of the upmost quality is
described by rob Seymour
ROUTE LOCATION
Bishop’s Rib (E1 5b) Bishop Buttress, Chair
Ladder, Cornwall
THE SETTING
The setting. What is to be said, really?
The sun follows its arc left-to-right as
you stand at the top of the cliff looking
out; a dress rehearsal for TV’s This
Fishing Life takes place within a stone’s
throw offshore, small boats drop their
lobster pots, buoys and flags to collect
later. On the far horizon, the Scillonian
IV ferry ploughs its keelless course to
the Isles of Scilly and Avalon. The sea
reflects itself in diamonds. Off to the left
is Hella Buttress, off to the right Fox
Promontory, Carn Barra, Carn Les Boels
and Pordenack Point, plenty of sterner
tests for sterner days if you want them.
For today, dolphins break the surface,
chasing mavericks. Chair Ladder is one
of a small number of three-star crags in
these wonderful islands. It doesn’t really
matter what you set out to climb there,
or even if you climb anything at all. Just
to be there, eye level to sea level in Zawn
Rinney, as the languid waves slap back
and a seal pops its head up to see what
route you are planning is a very special
experience. To be fair, you have to pick
your time: the cliff really belongs to the
birds and if you choose your time or your
route badly, dress to protect yourself
from being dive-bombed, vomited on
and pecked by hardened generations
of seagulls.
THE HISTORY
In the aftermath of WWII, the Commando
Cliff Assault Wing, based in St Ives (the
Cornwall one, not the Cambridgeshire
one), under the genial command of
Major Mike Banks, began recording rock
climbs as early as 1946. For the next
decade and more, daily PT, rations and
FIRST ASCENT
J Deacon, J W Oakes (1956) climbed from Diocese. Starting pitch
added by MB McDermott, RAP Mellow, DW Bateman (1963).
unlimited opportunities for exploration
between sea and the sky inevitably led
this cadre of young, enthusiastic and
fit climbers to home in on the glorious
golden granite spire of Bishop Buttress
at Chair Ladder.
No routes were recorded on the
buttress when AW Andrews and EC Pyatt
wrote the text of their 1950 Climber’s
Club guide to Cornwall, but Flannel Ave-
nue had already fallen to the Commando
Cliff Assault Wing in 1949 and in1952 MJ
Ridges and JF Lilly established the main
line of the buttress with the superlative
Diocese. In 1954, John ‘Zeke’ Deacon
opened his account on the buttress with
The Mitre climbing a line on its right-
hand side. Two years later, in 1956,
Deacon, followed by JW Oakes, led an
unprotected pitch out of Diocese right-
wards onto the font face of the buttress
to establish Bishop’s Rib. On 21st July
1963, MB McDermott, RAP Mellor and
DW Bateman climbed the entry pitch,
establishing the line of this Hard Rock
classic line. In the 1980s, a large ‘coffin’
block dropped out of the overlap on the
first pitch, increasing the overall grade
from HVS 5a to E1 5b.
MY PERSONAL JOURNEY
From Manchester Victoria Bus Station,
we got the National Express overnight to
Falmouth, slept on the beach and hitch-
hiked to Penzance. We got very lucky
and got a lift as far as the Vineries at the
junction that leads down to Porthgwarra.
This was back in our ‘everyone’s dream
time of climbing’ where routes are all
easy and nothing ever goes wrong.
I’m talking about a time of tube socks,
Helly Hansen blue fibre pile pants and
Boreal Firé rock shoes. If you know what
I mean, you know what I mean. If you
don’t, take my kids out for a pint.
So, to cut a long story short, we are
finally at Chair Ladder. We got some
friendly help from a couple of locals who
let us abseil in down Pinnacle Gully on
their rope and then pointed out The Mitre,
Diocese and Flannel Avenue. We were a
couple of snotty kids and arrogant. We’d
only come for one thing, the Hard Rock
‘tick’ of Bishop’s Rib.
As it was, I got the first pitch (5b),
a leftwards rising series of steps to a
decent runner placement halfway across
the first slab. Tension dropped at that
point, as it reduced the risk of a fall into
the leg-breaking sea-washed trench
below. Forget all the scenic shit I talked
about above, this suddenly was serious.
I carried on left and up. The route wasn’t,
and isn’t, like it is in Hard Rock. A block
about the size of a table has dropped
out, so instead of a finger crack there is
a gritty and awkward lurch up and right
over an overlap to reach a sloping slab
and belay.
The next pitch (5a) proved wonder-
ful. Technical moves, gear placements
just where you wanted them, to emerge
onto a sun-plastered expanse of golden
granite. Belay, change over, carry on, the
sun twinkling on the sea far below. We
finished, coiled the ropes and headed off
to hitch our way back to catch the bus
north for school. That was 40 years ago.
I’ve done Bishop’s Rib many times since
then, but maybe that first joyful, ridic-
ulous expedition explains why I live in
Cornwall and never plan to leave. Come
on, it’s waiting for you, to enjoy the
scenery and the superb climbing. n
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 17
THE CLIMBER’S VOICE

YOU NEVER KNOW

UNTIL YOU GO
Words and photographs by Tony Howard

‘You never know until you go’ has always been one of my motivations. I had first
been to Morocco in the winter of 1963 to climb North Africa’s highest mountain
Jebel Toubkal. Afterwards, in the hope of warm rock, we travelled south by bus to
Tafraoute in the Anti-Atlas quite by chance discovering its rock-climbing potential.
I later passed the info on to Dennis Gray since when it has become increasingly
popular with a wealth of climbing.

My next visit to Morocco was 10 years
later, in 1973, travelling there by car
in the company of three friends from
home plus ‘Big Joe’ and Ernst Renner,
a Swiss Guide, both of whom I had
met in the Yukon the year before.
I had climbed there with Ernst and,
as we were now both back home,
I suggested using this opportunity to
head further east and check out the
climbing potential of the Kabylie
Mountains in northern Algeria.
Driving south through Spain we passed
below a lovely limestone peak that we
learnt later was Puig Campana. There
were no climbs there then but now it’s
full of good routes, many of them by
Rowland and Mark Edwards who have a
climbing centre nearby. It was tempting
to stop and do a route, but as the weather
looked dodgy and everyone was keen to
visit Africa, we continued along the Med-
iterranean coast which was undergoing
a massive building boom, idyllic fishing
villages being converted to ever expand-
ing tourist resorts. In fact, we were lucky
that we didn’t stop to climb as the weather
soon became atrocious.
Still driving after dark we were finally
forced to stop by unbelievably heavy rain
against which the windscreen wipers
struggled in vain. There were some
partially built houses alongside the road
so with almost zero visibility and no room
to sleep six in the car we grabbed our
sleeping bags and ran for their shelter. 6

From left to right: Ernst

Renner, Ken Taylor, Joe Rusas,
Henry Bell and Mick Shaw.

Opposite page: The south

face of an outlying tower
of La Maniccia in the Monte
Rotondo massif.

18 MAY–JUN 2021 www.climber.co.uk

YOU NEVER KNOW UNTIL YOU GO

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 19

the climber’s voice
Tony Howard climbing a
complex ridge of needles
with 2000 feet of VS climbing
on sharp, seemingly
untouched limestone on an
outlier of Capo Anchiustro
according to Tony‘s map.
20 may–jun 2021
In the blackness of the night, I fell head-
first through an open doorway, tripped
by an ankle-high wire fixed tightly across
the entrance. Once inside we turned our
head torches on and saw why it was
there: it was a trip wire fastened to the
trigger of a shotgun just inside the house
and pointed directly at the doorway. The
cartridge was still in the chamber, but,
luckily for me, it was damp with the rain
and hadn’t fired. It’s one way of deterring
burglars, I suppose but we were in, so
we slept there, rising early before the
builders came, then continuing on to
Algeciras.
We crossed the Med to Morocco the
next day and made our way pleasantly
south to Fez and Marrakech. So far it
was more of a hippy trip than a climbing
trip, but we then drove east over the Atlas
Mountains where Ernst and I climbed
in the Todra Gorge before hitching and
catching buses to Algiers whilst the others
made their way back to England. Unknown
to us, whilst they were driving home
through central London, two police cars
with sirens blaring boxed them in and
they were spread-eagled against a wall
and thoroughly searched, but if they
were looking for drugs, there were none.
www.climber.co.uk
Apparently, it was a bizarre and scary
experience, being frisked with no
explanation given and no apparent
justification. Only Big Joe was absent.
He had already left on the way up from
Dover to visit some friends, taking with
him a large wooden statue he had
bought in Morocco. Ever since, they have
wondered what might have been in it.
Meanwhile, Ernst and I were heading
east from Algiers then on up to the vil-
lage of Tizi Ouzou in the Grand Kabylie
Mountains, to which Bernard Domenech,
then the Chronicleur for the French GHM
(Group de Haute Montagne), had sent me
some climbing info. It was off the beaten
track but it had good looking limestone
peaks and a few climbs with room for
more, but Bernard also mentioned that
the local Berber people had a rebellious
reputation. They had preserved their cul-
tural heritage and been very active in the
resistance to French colonialism as well
as demanding the recognition of Berber
as an official language. The climbing
sounded interesting as did the people,
so it seemed just my scene.
By 2012, almost 40 years after our
visit, their rebellious reputation had
worsened considerably. Al-Qaeda’s
deputy leader in Algeria, Boualem Bekai
(alias Khaled al-Mig) was killed in an
ambush by the Algerian army near Tizi
Ouzou. Two years later it became a
no-go zone, Hervé Gourdel, a French
Guide with a great deal of experience in
North Africa who had been a friend of
Bernard’s was killed there by the Jund
al-Khalifa, ‘Soldiers of the Caliphate’,
whilst exploring “an Alpinist’s paradise
of gorges, grottoes, forests and fissures”.
When I checked again later, according
to The Independent newspaper, the
name ‘Triangle of Death hung about the
magnificent scenery’ whilst other reports
said it was ‘a stronghold for al-Qaeda
allied militants’. Sad that so many beau-
tiful parts of the world are becoming
off-limits.
But anyway, back in 1973, Ernst and
I had no such problems or concerns. We
weren’t too worried about a ‘rebellious
reputation’ and the people were friendly
enough though they kept themselves
to themselves though sadly we never
managed to climb. Arriving in late
October, it was too late in the year and
the weather was terrible. We simply
wandered around in the mist for three
days of incessant rain during which time

we were rewarded by just one momen-
tary glimpse of a nice looking, possibly
300m, limestone tower rising from
dripping vegetation beneath threatening
skies.
On our fourth day of sheltering in
a leaky tent we decided to move on in
search of drier, warmer rock and made
our way by bus through Tunisia then on
by ferries to Sicily, then Sardinia. There
we walked and hitched our way north
through strangely quiet villages being
warned about Mafia robbers before,
finally, taking the ferry to Corsica where
we knew there was rock. We didn’t have
a map or any climbing info so on arrival
in Bonifacio at its southern tip we tried
to buy a guidebook. Having no luck, we
looked through the postcards of moun-
tain scenery for some inspiration then
bought a road map as that was all we
could find and the mountains south of
the Monte Cinto area looked good
and accessible.
The weather was sunny and looked
settled so, looking forward to getting on
some warm rock, we caught the bus to
Corte in the north of the island, bought
some food and walked southwest up
a pretty valley, happy to be away from
roads and back in the mountains.
Eventually spotting a complex ridge of
needles, an outlier of Capo Anchiustro
according to our map, we camped
and next day traversed them enjoying
2,000ft of climbing on sharp, seemingly
untouched, limestone. The following
day we found another fun route on the
opposite side of the valley, 1,000ft long
and of similar grade (around VS) up the
south face of an outlying tower of La
Maniccia in the Monte Rotondo massif.
The following morning the weather
began to change again, looking very un-
promising. We weren’t keen on spending
more time in a wet tent but neither were
we eager to walk back so we decided to
traverse the island instead. Who knows
what we might find. We reasoned that if
we continued up the valley and walked
far enough to the west we would some-
how reach the sea, the weather might
improve and there might even be more
crags. It was, after all, only about 40km
to Porto on the west coast.
With heavy clouds massing overhead,
we passed by the shore of a lake, which
I later discovered was Lac du Capitellu
on the GR20. The rock, which plunged
straight into the lake looked good but
it was no weather for climbing as snow
was now beginning to fall. The pass
which we knew was still ahead of us
was already hidden in the clouds and it
very quickly became a white-out. With
only a road map, we were unsure if the
YOU NEVER KNOW UNTIL YOU GO
way ahead was possible but to our relief A view to mountains
we eventually crossed the pass and southwest of Monte
descended beneath the clouds to find Cinto in Corsica’s
a good track down through beautiful Regional Natural Park.
autumnal chestnut forests.
We bivvied, sheltered by the trees,
before reaching a road then caught a
bus to Bastia near the northern tip of the
island, intending to get a ferry to France
but then discovered it was cheaper to
fly home, so we took the easy option
and were home the next day. I never
returned to Kabylie, but maybe it’s safe
now. You never know until you go...
Footnote:
Whilst writing this article almost 50
years later, I checked Corte on the web
and discovered we had walked up and
camped in the Gorges of La Restonica,
now in a Natural Park with rare mouflon
and ospreys and a road and accommo-
dation with around 1,500km of marked
trails. n
Tony Howard is the author of Troll Wall
and Quest into the Unknown (both can
be found at www.v-publishing.co.uk) plus
climbing and trekking guidebooks to UK,
Norway, Jordan and Palestine.
www.climber.co.uk may–jUn 2021 21
feature

THE FIRST ASCENT

OF ANNAPURNA II By noel Dawson

The Annapurna Massif sits in north central Nepal. It consists of many peaks including
Annapurna I at 8,091m (26,545 ft), Annapurna II at 7,937m (26,040ft), Annapurna III at
7,555m (24,786 ft) and Annapurna IV at 7,525m (24,688 ft). In 1950 the British explorer and
mountaineer, Bill Tilman, led an expedition to the Annapurna region. Bill had already
travelled and climbed in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountains several times during
the 1930s including two visits to the north side of Everest in 1935 and 1938. The Annapurna
Massif would surely offer Bill and his team extraordinary landscapes to explore and
challenging peaks to climb.

22 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk


The team left Kathmandu on 10th
May. They stopped for several days
at Thonje to observe Manaslu. The
climbers trekked up the Dudh Khola
to examine the mighty peak from the
north. It was a stunning mountain.
The expedition journeyed on and
eventually sited their Base Camp in
a pine glade with a remarkable view
of Annapurna II. After some consider-
ation a decision was made that
Annapurna IV offered the team the
most realistic chance of success. If
all went well then perhaps it would
be feasible to place a camp on the
Annapurna ridge at the base of the
final pyramid that led to the summit
of Annapurna II.
A series of camps were placed and
the first attempt on the summit was
made on June 17th by Charles Evans and
the New Zealand climber, Bill Packard.
The two retreated due to poor weather
but they felt that in better conditions the
summit could be achieved. A second
attempt also failed. A final climb was
made by Bill Tilman, Charles Evans and
Bill Packard. Tilman became fatigued
and turned back. Evans and Packard
climbed on and by midday had passed
The Shoulder which led to the summit
of Annapurna IV. As they approached
24,000ft Charles Evans also felt that he
could go no further. The decision was
made to turn back. The two men felt they
had been only 600ft in height below the
summit.
Although they did not know it, as the
team had spent early days in their Base
Camp, a French team had been climbing
on Annapurna I. The French team
completed the first ascent of the mountain
on 3rd June. Annapurna I was the first
8,000m peak ever to be summited.
When Bill Tilman returned to Kathman-
du, he was offered an opportunity to travel
towards Everest with a party including
Oscar Houston and his son Charles.
The group journeyed through lands
which had just recently been opened
to Western travellers to reach Namche
Bazaar and the Tengboche Monastery.
THE FIRST ASCENT OF ANNAPURNA II
Bill and Charles trekked on to the lower
reaches of the Khumbu Glacier to
observe Everest for the first time from
the south side. They considered whether
a route could be found to climb the
mountain from Nepal. The views were
certainly a rewarding ending to a fine
venture to the Himalaya.
A German team completed the first
ascent of Annapurna IV in 1955. During
1957 the British climbers Charles Evans
and Dennis Davis travelled to the
Annapurna range. Both had climbed in
the Himalaya before. Charles Evans had
been with Tilman on Annapurna IV in
1950. He had climbed on Everest in 1953
and led the team to make the first ascent
of Kangchenjunga in 1955. Dennis Davis
had journeyed to the Himalaya in 1955. The Annapurna range from
The team he travelled with made no less the northeast. From left to
than 19 ascents of peaks between right: Annapurna II and IV
19,000ft and 22,000ft. (close together), Annapurna
Dennis and Charles followed the same III and Gangapurna and
route to the mountains as Tilman had Annapurna I. Photo: Thierry
in 1950. They were joined by their Sirdar, Le Ridant/commons.
Dawa Tensing, and three Sherpas. 6 wikimedia.org
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 23
feature

The impressive
Annapurna II (7,937m)
from the north. Photo:
Lev Yakupov/commons.
wikimedia.org
Their approach was slowed by heavy
snow. They reached their Base Camp
at 15,500ft on 16th April. The two men
climbed to the main Annapurna ridge
and established Camp III at 21,500ft.
Charles and Dennis pushed on,
sometimes using the north side of the
crest to ease the climbing, to place a final
camp Camp IV at 23,000ft. On 5th May
1957 they ascended for three hours from
Camp IV to complete the second ascent
of Annapurna IV.
Charles and Dennis retreated to Base
Camp and rested. On 15th May they
returned to Camp IV. The next day the
two men, supported by Dawa Tensing
and the Sherpas, returned to The
Shoulder below the summit of Annapurna
IV and started to follow the ridge towards
Annapurna II. They carried equipment
to place one more camp. The climbers
struggled on for about a quarter of a
mile. The ridge started to drop signifi-
cantly and a decision was made to
retreat. Charles and Dennis felt the ridge
was just too long and demanding and
that the weather was too unpredictable
to climb on. It was a good mountain
decision, a blizzard hit and they only just
made Camp IV before dark. The climbers
returned to Kathmandu; Annapurna II
remained unclimbed.
In 1960 The British Indian Nepalese
Services Himalayan Expedition headed
to Annapurna II. The team was led by
Lieutenant Colonel Jimmy Roberts of the
British Army who had been with Bill
Tilman in 1950. The group included
Lieutenant Chris Bonington of the Royal
Tank Regiment who was making his first
visit to the Himalaya. The walk-in was
made up of many days of magnificent
experiences. The Sherpas took excellent
care of the climbers including delivering
steaming teas to the climbers’ tents very
early each morning.
Base Camp was placed near the foot
of Annapurna IV. Chris Bonington and
Captain Richard (Dick) Grant of the
Royal Marines supported by Sherpa Ang
Nyima, who was a Lance Corporal in the
10th Princess Mary’s Own Gurkha Rifles,
and Sherpa Tashi led the ascent. The
climbing was long and tiring. Progress
was initially very slow as the climbers
were hit by strong winds and deep
snow. Eventually Camp IV was placed
approaching The Shoulder sitting below
the summit of Annapurna IV.
Annapurna II was still far away. The
whole team retreated to Base Camp to
prepare for the final ascent. Jimmy
Roberts explained his plan. Chris and
Dick would lead with Sherpa Ang Nyima.
They would be helped by more Sherpas
as they climbed back to their high
camp. Other climbers supported by
Sherpa Dawa Tensing would climb to
Camp III and help to carry equipment
to Camp IV.
If the ascent on Annapurna II was
successful, they could then attempt
Annapurna IV. The remaining team
members supported lower on the
mountain. The team returned to the
mountain on 9th May. The climbers
used bottled oxygen and the weather
remained calm. Chris, Dick and Ang
Nyima established Camp V on The
Shoulder just below 24,000ft on 15th
May. The weather broke but the men
were pleased to push on the following
day to cover untrodden ground. They
clung to the south side of the ridge to
avoid the menacing cornices on the
north side and soon reached the drop
that had halted Charles Evans and
Dennis Davis in 1957. The descent was
challenging and the group were soon
well below The Shoulder. Dick had a
problem with his oxygen set. A decision
was made to dump their equipment for
Camp VI and travel back up the slope to
Camp V. Exhaustion filled the camp and
the climbers wondered what the next
day might hold.

24 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk

 THE FIRST ASCENT OF ANNAPURNA II

A surprisingly good night was en- Sir Chris Bonington.

joyed and the morning broke with good Photo: Berghaus
weather. The men set off early but Dick’s
oxygen set was still not working well. It
offered only a limited amount of extra
oxygen. Sherpas Urkien and Mingma
Tsering carried equipment including a
tent to Camp VI. Chris, Dick and Ang
Nyima passed the supplies they had
dumped for the camp and climbed on.
There was still around 2,500ft in height
to climb. Chris led as the final pyramid
posed a steep challenge. The weather
started to deteriorate but the summit
seemed too close to turn back.
The snow led to a loose rock band
and then back onto snow. The ridge
dragged on until, at last, they viewed a
final cone of snow… the summit. It was
Tuesday 17th May 1960. The three men
had climbed Annapurna II. The team
had completed the first ascent of this
demanding peak, at the time one of the
highest unclimbed mountains in the
world. Everyone had played their part in
successfully climbing the mountain that
had challenged so many.
As they enjoyed this special time
cloud surrounded them and reality
kicked in. It was past 4pm and they
needed to get down. Their oxygen was
virtually exhausted, the euphoria was Annapurna I in 1950. Chris used the first ascent of Nuptse, which was also
gone. Suddenly Dick lost his footing and sketch map in the back of Maurice technically hard, my driving ambition
pulled Chris off his feet. Chris dug his Herzog’s book of the expedition to plot was still to push my limits in the Alps.
axe into the snow but it would not grip. their path. They spent a wonderful first My big Himalayan years were through
Dick thankfully managed to halt himself night simply sleeping under the stars. the 1970s when, as expedition leader,
and both men were safe. Chris, Dick The next day the two men crossed the I tackled the South Face of Annapurna,
and Ang Nyima reached their camp and first pass and reached the Ice Lake where the South West Face of Everest and of
after three days were safely back in Base they slept a second night. A third day led course many other peaks over the years.
Camp. them over the second pass to the village The most fulfilling and enjoyable Hima-
As well as the success on Annapurna of Thinigaon and a final night before layan trip I’ve ever had was when Jim
II, Sherpa Urkien and Sherpa Mingma joining the main party again. Chris Fotheringham and I had our Alpine Style
Tsering made the third ascent of Anna- enjoyed these few days in a very special first ascent of Shivling in 1983.”
purna IV. They tied a dirty handkerchief landscape with views that had been The final of the four main peaks in
to a bamboo cane to mark their achieve- shared by the great French climbers and the Annapurna region, Annapurna III,
ment. Captain Jagjit Singh of the Indian meeting many interesting local people was climbed by an Indian expedition in
Army who was one of the supporting during the journey. 1961. Many more significant ascents in
climbers carried important equipment to The British Indian Nepalese Services the area have followed. The Annapurna
Camp IV. He became unwell in camp and Himalayan Expedition was incredibly Massif is an area of outstanding natural
had to retreat from the mountain with successful. Another intimidating peak beauty. It stands as a landscape that has
Dawa Tensing. The remaining climbers had been climbed. For a young Chris been well-travelled by many and greatly
who carried to Camp IV were joined by Bonington it was the beginning of many appreciated and enjoyed by some of the
Sherpa Tashi and all reached the summit truly remarkable years climbing in the best mountaineers in the world. n
of Annapurna IV where they found the Himalaya. Many years on, Chris Boning-
handkerchief left by the two Sherpas. ton reflects on Annapurna II and on later
Captain Bill Crawshaw of the British expeditions to the Himalaya: “Annapurna BIBLIOGRAPHY
Army, Captain Prabakhar Shamsher II was indeed a fascinating experience,
I Chose to Climb by Chris Bonington
Rana of the Royal Nepalese Army, Flight especially as I travelled out by boat to
Lieutenant Stewart Ward of the Royal look after all the expedition gear and Ascent by Chris Bonington
Air Force and Sherpa Tashi summited then escorted it up to Kathmandu. Every- ‘Annapurna’ by Charles Evans The Alpine Journal 1957
Annapurna IV on 19th May. thing was so different and new and the ‘Annapurna II’ by Jimmy Roberts The Alpine Journal 1960
The team returned to Kathmandu. mountain itself proved a real challenge
‘The Annapurna Himal and South Side of Everest’ by Bill Tilman
Chris Bonington with Sherpa Tashi took particularly with that long ridge between The Alpine Journal 1951
the opportunity to travel back over the Annapurna IV and II with the summit
Tilicho passes tracing the footsteps of ridge proving to be technically challeng- Many thanks to Chris Bonington for sharing memories of
the French team that had first climbed ing. Yet at that time and even after our Annapurna II and other important times climbing in the Himalaya.

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 25

DESTINATION

Duddon Valley
Climbing
Lakeland Rock
By John Holden with additions by Steve Scott

The Duddon is the prettiest and most unspoilt of the major valleys in the Lake District
and, in saying that, I don’t feel I have to justify it; it is simply true. Development is
sparse, there is no public transport, farms and cottages are thinly spread, there is
one shop and a very good pub. Like many Lakeland valleys, there is a long human
heritage with Neolithic remains and the scars of abandoned industry.
From Duddon Bridge, in the south, the valley road climbs a wall of moraine breached
by the river. Entry from the north is defended by Hardknott and Wrynose Passes.
Whichever way you go the river winds along the valley floor with breathtaking natural
beauty. Often shy, with hidden crags in sylvan glades, at other times bold, the crags
springing proudly from the open fellside. If you have climbed there, I will lay odds on
this being at Wallowbarrow, Burnt Crag, Long Scar or Black Crag. This brief tour will
show you that there is so much more…

Peter Sterling climbs the technical gem Columbia (E1 5b) on Stonestar Crag. This superb crag is at
the start of the Duddon Valley and the first to be reached from the coast. Photo: David Simmonite

26 MAY–JUN 2021 www.climber.co.uk

www.climber.co.uk MAY–JUN 2021 27
destination
Nick Wharton climbing the
brilliant Glass Slipper (E2 5b)
on Black Crag at the top of
Wrynose Pass. This beautifully
delicate climb, on the finest
of rock and with only just
enough protection, takes
a steady lead to succeed.
Photo: David Simmonite
28 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk
POPULAR STUFF
Wallowbarrow Crag, ease of access and
with plenty of mid-grad classics make
this a great place to go and the most
popular crag. If you haven’t been, routes
such as Malediction Direct (VS 4c), The
Plumb (VS 4c), Thomas (HS 4a), Digitation
(VS 4c) and Trinity Slabs (S 4a) are all
must-do routes. If you are doing The
Plumb do remember to extend your
quickdraw at the overhang, otherwise
it will feel like you’re dragging a car up
the crag. The stand out route here is
Bryanston (VS 4b). Difficulty increases as
height is gained, the steep cracked upper
section is exposed yet, liberally endowed
with large holds and runners, it can be
savoured.
Burnt Crag is the best crag in the
valley for Extremes. Most of the routes are
steep, sustained and excellent. Innocenti
(E3 6a), Waking the Witch (E4 6b), Shifter
(E3 6a) and Burning Desire (E5 6b) are as
good as any in the Lakes. Of these, Shifter
is the best protected and consequently
the most popular, but it will make you
work for an ascent.
The next popular area on the south
side of Pike o’ Blisco, described in the
Langdale guidebook, is revised and
updated in the new FRCC Duddon &
Wrynose guide. Lying at 650m the quartet
of crags there might be considered
mountain crags, but their proximity to
Wrynose Pass, being a mere kilometre
from the road, justifies a ‘roadside’ tag.
Black Crag, and its close companion
Long Scar (just in front of Black Crag and
with many lower grade climbs) have
over 80 routes between them, the aspect
is south and southwest and the excellent
rock can be described as like the best
gritstone or Skye gabbro. Small wonder
then that the area is so popular. Even in
winter, a sunny day will often see a num-
ber of climbers disporting themselves on
the rocks.
Actually, recommending routes is
difficult because there are so many good
ones, but how about a two-star V Diff?
Dot’s Delight doesn’t look much from
below but turns out to be really interest-
ing and enjoyable, if a little run-out in
places. Long Scar Groove (S 4a) is a good
line and The Needle (VD) and Skye Ridge
(VD) are very worthwhile. At the harder
end of the scale, for those who can solo
5b, there is always the classic Glass
Slipper (E2 5b), a fabulous delicate slab
with little in the way of protection and
climbing second to none. The West Face
gives a plethora of excellent routes
starting with the fine groove of The First
Touch (E1 5b). Also worth a mention are
Yellow Fever (E2 5b) via thin cracks in a
smooth wall and Hold On gives a neat
climb at Severe.
Lightning Crag and Black Wars make
up the quartet but more on these later.
That then is a brief round-up of the
popular parts of the Duddon and
Wrynose area, but there is so much
more.
MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE
It is over a quarter of a century since a
definitive guide to routes in the Duddon
was published. The valley has been the
secret domain of a very few climbers,
most of whom know each other and
who tend to be from the south Lakes.
 DuDDon Valley Climbing – lakelanD RoCk

While off-comers gathered in their

hordes at the honey pots of Wallowbar-
row and Black Crag the cognoscenti
went elsewhere, developing crags,
filling in lines on partially developed
crags and even occasionally doing
established routes.
So, the situation a quarter of a century
on is that over 1,000 routes have been
added to the valley and the area now
merits its own guidebook, Duddon &
Wrynose, produced by The Fell & Rock
Climbing Club. The grade profile of the
routes rather fortuitously works out as
one third being between Moderate and
Severe, one third are between MVS and
HVS and the final third contains the
Extremes. So, the question is, where to
climb?
Entering from the south, Stonestar
Crag dominates the valley. Its central
slab offers five high quality challenges,
the best known is the classic Columbia
(E1 5b), yet The Challenger (E4 6a),
The Breech (E3 5c) and Anchor Handling
(E2 5c) are all technical gems where the
difficulty increases with height. The right-
hand side has been developed and now
offers nine pleasant, yet bold, routes in
the VS bracket, the best are The Great 8 Bronco (HVS 5a) on Buck
Escape (VS 4c) and An Inside Job (HVS Crag is the best slab climb in
4c). A small crag nearby, Stonestar the Duddon (and there are a
South, with crozzly pockets and flakes lot of contenders) albeit with
sports eight routes. only just adequate protection
The rugged hillside a kilometre north at the grade. The climbing is
of Stonestar has three pleasant little fairly sustained but the crux
crags which are a useful addition with is breaking through the
the added attraction of the nearby river overlap above the climber,
for bathing and picnics. The largest of John Daly. Photo: John Holden
these, Yew Barrow, loitering behind a
very large sycamore tree, was developed 4 Caroline Steel makes her
by local legend, Pete Whillance. Bull’s way up the excellent Trinity
Eye Direct (HVS 5a) and The Dodger (E4 Slabs (S 4a). This route takes
6a) are the lines that Pete recommends, in four lovely pitches up East
so don’t miss your chance to lead some Buttress on right-hand side
Whillance routes. of Wallowbarrow Crag. Photo:
We mentioned Wallowbarrow earlier David Simmonite
but there is an alternative close by if it is
busy (as it often is). The Far East Buttress
gives great climbing, Paradice (VS 4c)
and Parallel (VS 4c) being long-standing
classics. The adjacent 30m pillar offers
five routes, all are good and there is an
abseil point at the top; Men of the Plough
(HVS 5a) and Shear Line (HVS 5b) are
the best of the bunch. Below this the
long-standing sandbag Shark’s Fin Scoop
which now goes at E2 5a and don’t miss
The Shark’s Fin a stimulating V Diff.
Going a little further right brings you to
the largely unfrequented Low Crag. The
routes on the elevated Wounded Land
section, accessed via a handy ledge
system, climb excellent rock and routes
such as Rio Grande (HVS 4c), Innuendo
(HVS 5a), Ill Earth (VS 4b) and Wounded
Land (E1 5a) should not be missed. 6

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 29

destination
Wallowbarrow Gorge
Close by is Wallowbarrow Gorge. The
climbing on the west bank does verge on
the esoteric. That is not to say it’s poor,
lurking in the arboreal shade there are
many very good pitches, but you need
to be in the mood for the route finding
(as in finding the route, not finding your
way on the route). But most folk can
find Cornflake (VS 4c) and, although
it’s discontinuous, it gives steep, airy
climbing. Glittering Prize (E2 5b) tackling
a steep arête is the best route there.
On the opposite side is Pen, a sunny
afternoon venue. There are almost 30
routes to go at from Severe to E2 and
most of them can be recommended.
Carefully does it; Joe Holden
pads his way up Ripples (E2 5b)
at Pen in the Wallowbarrow
Gorge. Photo: Al Phizacklea
30 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk
Access to the crag is easiest by approach-
ing from the bench by the stone footbridge
over the Duddon. The path, such as it is,
disappears after a couple of hundred
metres, but as long as you trend upwards
you can’t miss the crag.
The arrival point is also the point at
which the most recent route has been
done. Quiet Noise is a sustained Severe.
The bold start leads to better protection
on the steep sections. Around the corner
to the left The Pen is Mightier than the
Sword (S) gives a tough, but interesting,
start for the grade and much farther
left the fine duo of Ripples (E2 5b) and
A Quick One (E2 5b) provides sustained
and bold padding on a rippled slab.
OVER 1,000 ROUTES
HAVE BEEN ADDED TO
THE VALLEY AND THE
AREA NOW MERITS
ITS OWN GUIDEBOOK
Just to the right this slab can be enjoyed
at a much more amenable grade on the
well-protected The Thin Manipulator (S 4a).
If the crag is green when you get
there, it is worth going to Upper Pen to
have a play. Although shorter, there are
worthwhile routes; Chameleon (HS 4a),
Seduced by the ‘Ennerdale Blond’ (HS 4a)
and the best of the lot, The Thwacking
Stone (VS 4c). There is a story to tell
about the naming of the latter route, but
only after the nine o’clock watershed.
Seathwaite Tarn
Going back to the east side of the valley
some surprising developments have
taken place. If we start at the best pub
in the valley, The Newfield Inn (it’s the
only pub, but still an excellent hostelry)
and head north, up a hill and before
descending to the river there is a turning
to the bottom end of the Walna Scar
road. If you are wanting a mountain
crag day take the gravel track on the
left to Seathwaite Tarn, where a ring
of crags provide some fine routes.
Great Blake Rigg is the largest crag
and gives routes for all ability levels,
but the best climbing is HVS and above.
The buttresses there are complex but
well worth exploring. Try The Gangway
(HS) and an excellent VS, Grey Buttress
(VS 4c), which was the first recorded
route in the Duddon. It was done in
1921 by GS Bower, the next route came
along 30 years later. The reason why
this remote, hidden route was the first
to be climbed is easily explained because
this is the only area of rock in the valley
visible from the top of Dow Crag and
Bower simply walked across from
Goat’s Hawse to investigate. The other
stand-out routes are Thor (HVS 5a),
Valhalla (E2 5c) and Conquistador (E3 6a)
together with the tough problems on the
Upper Wall, the sustained technical The
School of Hard Knocks (E5 6b) being the
best of these.
A day on the crags around Seathwaite
Tarn should take a clockwise direction,
so after Great Blake Rigg head across
to Far Hill Crag to take advantage of
climbing in the sun for the whole day.
Far Hill Crag has a fine selection of
Extremes. In fact, it’s difficult to find
a poor one, but there is a batch of
excellent routes: Olive (E1 5b), Drum
Roll (E2 5c), Lagonda (E3 5c), First of
Class (E4 6a) and Machiavellian Paragon
(E5 6a) all command attention.
Tarn Beck & Troutal
The next section of the valley to explore Framed by a magnificent
is the Tarn Beck area. Until 2019 it backdrop James Dickinson
remained largely undeveloped. This is climbing Black Watch
may sound strange, as surely every inch (HVS 5a) on Nose Buttress
of The Lakes had been explored and at Little Stand. These small
catalogued? How had it escaped the unfrequented crags sit loftily
attention of climbers who had compet- above the open valleys of
itively scoured the Duddon Valley for Moasdale and Wrynose
decades? It almost seems too strange to Bottom. These high crags
be true. From the heatwave of February are exposed and are best
2019 until mid-2020 over 100 new routes enjoyed on warm still days.
were added on five crags in this area and Photo: Cath Sullivan
a large number of them are good climbs.
The main crag is Crag Band which
yielded The Band, a 90m Severe based
on the well-known grade 3 scramble,
and a large number of other routes of
reasonable quality.
In all, over 70 routes were added to
this crag, rivalling Wallowbarrow as the
crag with the widest range of routes in
the valley and many of these have band
related route names stretching the 6
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 31
destination

imaginations of the teams. The prize for

6 John Holden on Scimitar
Slab (S) at Brandy Crag West,
one of the best crags for mid-
grade climbers with plenty of
quality slabby routes. Situated
on the flanks of Harter Fell,
the approach from Birks
Bridge car park takes about
40 minutes. Photo: Ed Luke
2 Craig Spence climbing
Bryn’s Route (HVS 5a) on
Orange Wall at Castle How.
This isolated plug of volcanic
rock is reached with a short
approach with hardly any
uphill walking (10 minutes).
Steep rock means most of the
routes are in the Extremes.
Photo: John Holden
best name probably goes to Al Phizack-
lea for Alexander’s Crag Time Banned.
Small, yet perfectly formed, Henry’s Cat
Wall had been noted in the previous guide
and dismissed but now provides some
fingery problems La’l Un (E3 6a) being
the most challenging and a bold VS, Cat’s
Whiskers (VS 4b). Behind this Secret Crag
is a delightful dell hidden high on the
fellside. If you like slab climbing Tongue
House offers a rough slab set at just the
right angle. Although compromised by
an almost complete lack of gear and a
sloping landing the climbing is amazing.
Troutal Gorge is well-known for the
photogenic White Water (E2 5c) hanging
above the river. Continuing a little further
up the valley we come to the delightful and
popular picnic area of Birks Bridge. In the
woods across the river is the aptly named
Birks Bridge Crag. Opinion on the quality
of the crag seems to be firming up towards
the favourable but being in the trees it is
best visited in the inevitable Duddon heat-
wave when the shade will be welcome.
There are a number of starred routes of
which Loves Labours (HS 4a), Immaculate
Fool (VS 4c), Gre’t Berk (VS 4b) and A Life
Well Wasted (VS 4b) are probably the best.

THERE IS PLENTY OF great character and he is missed by all

who knew him. The left-hand side of

HARDER CLIMBING ON the crag needs a visit to do Scimitar Slab

HARTER FELL. THE SLABS
OF BUCK CRAG DESERVE
TO BE REALLY POPULAR
Harter Fell
West of Birks Bridge is Harter Fell, an
area considered inaccessible in the last
guidebook which has come to light
(literally) following the felling of the
forest. For climbing in the VS range the
best crag is Brandy Crag West. Most of
the routes on the right-hand side of the
crag are worthwhile; the corner of Fable
(VS) and slabs of Aesop (VS) are very
good. In fact, all the slabs on the
right-hand side are good. Parable (S) is
a tough route for the grade; delicate and
not over-protected. Also worth mention-
ing is Legends (VS), a Jim Loxham route.
Co-author of the new Duddon & Wrynose
guidebook, Jim worked with total
commitment and enthusiasm. His early
death has robbed the community of a
(S), the excellent Family Affair (VS) and
Dwarves’ Crawl (S) which is the Duddon’s
answer to Giants’ Crawl on Dow (even if
rather shorter at 50m).
There is plenty of harder climbing
on Harter Fell. The slabs of Buck Crag
deserve to be really popular. A trio of
routes, Sweetheart of the Rodeo (E2 5c),
Sweetheart (E2 6a) and Bronco (HVS 5a)
were excellent finds. Bronco is consid-
ered to be the best slab climb in the
valley at its grade. Dropping Crag has
a good selection of committing routes
such as The Selfish Gene (E2 5c) and The
Blind Watchmaker (E3 5c) but for real
commitment, and those who carry three
skyhooks, the imaginary protection on
Bulging Faith (E4 5c) provides a suitable
test.
Cockley Beck
From the sylvan delights of Middle
Duddon going to the north we can head
for the remoteness of Cockley Beck
where the roads over Wrynose and
Hardknott converge. The problem is
which crag to go for? There is some tasty
climbing on immaculate rock and you

32 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk


can get a good leg work-out on steep
fellsides. If you want to get the legwork
over with, head for Little Stand Summit
Crag. It is a stunning location with
fabulous rock and you are most unlikely
to see anyone else up there. A Vroom
with a Ewe (E2 5c) is a three-star classic
E2 with good protection. Group 4 (HVS
5a) is a fine route providing poor security
and a chance to escape and Teardrop
Explodes (MVS 4b) is a two-star MVS
giving good climbing up a bookend
corner.
After sampling the routes on the
Summit Crag a short saunter downhill
brings you to Little Stand Crag with
about 40 routes to go at. Most of these
are on a wide terrace that clearly was
created for promenading, picnicking and
general lounging about (but bear in mind
that if there is a wind blowing from any
direction other than the east it will be
cold there). There are lots of mid-grade
routes to play on and all manner of
styles catered for, slabs for padding up,
cracks for jamming or overhangs for
thugging over. Try Purple Haze (E1 5b),
Marathon Crack (HS 4a), Madam Butterfly
(E1 5a) or Custer’s Last Stand (E1 5b).
There is also the possibility of easily
If you climb in the Lakes why wouldn’t you join?
FRCC
Lakes Sport
& Slate
Our latest definitive guidebook to Lakeland climbing
Lake District
Rock
getting an action photo of the wall
by adding a third person to the team.
The Black Watch (HVS 5a) has the most
magnificent backdrop and it is a lovely
route. For those with strong fingers the
testing Tomorrow’s Hero (E6 6c) requires
power and strength.
Gaitkins
Another fantastic higher level climbing
area is Gaitkins, a lovely varied venue for
playing, pottering and picnicking with a
fine selection of routes across all grades
on impeccable rock. With around a
dozen crags from which to choose
Gaitkins rivals the better-known Black
Crag for the range and quality of the
routes. There is something there for
everyone, with abundant short, high
quality problems. If slabs are your thing
one of the toughest in the Lakes lies
there, Seriously Smooth (E4 6a). Just
below the summit of Cold Pike you’ll find
some superb rock in a superb situation,
fast drying, facing the afternoon sun and
accessible, with an additional advantage
of solitude. The best route is probably
Mid Life Crisis (HVS 5b), a superb crack
climb, but Happy Days (S) is also worth
doing even if it is sparse on gear.
Fell & Rock Climbing Club
www.frcc.co.uk/about
Duddon & Wrynose
www.frcc.co.uk/shop/frcc/
DuDDon Valley Climbing – lakelanD RoCk
Wrynose
And so we move on to the final section
of the guide, Wrynose. This popular
area was first published in the Langdale
guide a few years ago but being in the
Duddon watershed it properly belongs to
the Duddon. Black Wars and Lightning
Crag are the Cinderellas, Lightning offers
short sharp problems, Fat Boys Crack
(E2 5c) and Amina (E1 5b) are great
climbs. Black Wars, on the northwest
side of Pike o’ Blisco has seen sporadic
development over the past 25 years, its
uncompromising steepness adding to
the lack of appeal. The crag came under
intense scrutiny in 2018 and is now fully
developed. Don’t think that all the routes
are tough hard Extremes, there are
easier climbs too, Twilight Stroll (VS 4c)
and Moonglow (HVS 5b) should make
for a memorable visit.
So, to sum up, like a fine wine, the
Duddon Valley has matured over the
last 25 years and now boasts 1,000
additional routes since the last Fell and
Rock guide was produced. The locals
love it for its beauty and solitude, but
we won’t mind sharing our secrets with
a few more visitors. n
Langdale
Eskdale
Dow &
Duddon &
Wrynose
Scafell &
Wasdale
519E FRCC Gable Guide Cover Final 28/08/2007 12:09 Page 1
& Gable & Pillar
Gable &
Pillar
&
FRCC
GUIDE
Buttermere
& St Bees
Borrowdale
Eastern
Crags
South Lakes
Eden Valley
Climbs
Winter
eASy climbS

EASY SPORT
CLIMBING
LAST BUTT ONE LEVEL,
PENMAENBACH QUARRY
Words by mark Reeves. Photography by David Simmonite

As we continue our series looking at lower grade routes

and venues that are great for people transitioning from
indoors to outdoor, on this occasion we visit to the
North Wales coast, normally famed for its limestone,
but this time an area of quarried micro-diorite.

34 mAy–juN 2021 www.climber.co.uk

 Mark Reeves soaking up the stunning
position whilst climbing Agent Orange
(F5) at the left-hand end of the Last Butt
One Level at Penmaenbach Quarry.

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 35

easy climbs

The North Wales coastal area around Llandudno is an iconic and established sport climbing destination that
in recent years has seen development in the lower grades. So recent that you need the latest edition of the
A55 Sport Climbs guidebook or search it out online to get all the route information you need, as there are
now nearly 30 routes on this level alone. With some of these recent additions starting from Happy Slappy
at F2 but focusing around the F4-6a+ grade range, it’s perfect for the aim of this article. There are also a
few harder routes up to F6c/7a for those seeking harder fare so it is great for a mixed party grade wise.

The venue is a great place to spend
a summer morning or even a full day.
Though be warned that in the height
of summer, when the sun comes
around onto the rock from around
3pm, it can get too hot. However,
generally up until this time it is almost
possible to belay in the sun and climb
in the shade. In the spring and autumn
you want to either wait for a still
warm day or only head there for a late
afternoon and evening session so you
get to enjoy some of that warming sun.
Especially as the level can be pretty
exposed to wind due to its position.
The crag is the highest tier of three
or some levels, the lower ones are best
accessed from the parking below, but for
the Last Butt One Level you want to park
in the limited parking at the Sychnant
Pass and follow the North Wales Coastal
Path for 800m or so before descending to
the crag, which sits on a grassy plateau
high above the A55 looking out across
at Llandudno and the Great Ormes.
There is a good mix of grades and
styles at the crag and although the
majority of routes are generally slabby,
there are more vertical walls, arêtes and
even a roof. In terms of holds, the climbing
is reminiscent of slate and generally
relies on edges for hand and footholds.
Whilst some of the routes are quite short,
there are a few routes that are about as
long as you can get in the UK for single
pitch sport climbs.

TIPS AND GEAR

For routes around Pendulum Corner area
you are going to need 12 quickdraws and
your usual equipment for rethreading
belays. Like all sport climbing routes, if
you are going to top rope the lines after
leading them then do so on your own
equipment to save wearing down the
in-situ anchor rings. This will mean the
last person up needs to be competent
at threading the lower-offs (see this link
on the Climber website for guidance on
threading lower offs – www.climber.co.
uk/training-how-to/training/safe-and-
sensible-lowering-off-sport-climbs/).
Again, for routes on this section of crag
you will also need a 60m rope because
the routes are 28m long – so remember
to tie a knot in the end of your rope so
you don’t inadvertently lower someone
off the end of the rope. You also need to
be careful lowering off because of the
position of the lower-off and the Big A55
Arête route as it is easy to over balance
off the slab and swing down Agent Orange,
causing the rope to run over the arête.
Because of the rock type, you will be
better off with shoes that are stiff and
good for edging. As many of the climbs
are slabs you will need to shake your
Not mentioned in the text legs out rather than your arms, as they
but worth climbing is Silly will be doing most of the work. To do
A55 Arête (F6a+). The initial this stand sideways on the bigger holds
moves are a little awkward and alternate shaking out each calf
but these soon lead to a muscle by standing on one foot and
delightful upper section. moving the hanging foot like you would
Mark Reeves climbing. your hand when shaking out your arms.

36 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk


If you build up slowly you might even
find that by the end of the day you will be
climbing a few of the harder routes there,
as good footwork will be rewarded.
Finally, take a good packed lunch
and plenty of water as the climbing is
extensive and you will be able to get a
full day there and when the sun finally
comes around you will be happy for the
hydration. This is more so if you decide to
explore the lower levels (not mentioned
here), although none are as well endowed
with easy routes as this one.
Easy sport Climbing – last butt onE lEvEl, pEnmaEnbaCh Quarry
APPROACH
Essentially you are heading to a car park
at the Synchant Pass (GR SH749770).
This can be gained by turning off the A55
at either junction 17 or 18. From the car
park head almost due north descending
slightly before heading back up and right
along a prominent track. A path forks off
left over a hillock, but you can get to the
same place by following the track
around. This carries straight on towards
a farm and you want to take a right turn
off the main track just before the path
Katie Haston on the classic
A55 Hole Arête (F5+) that
takes a line up the left arête
of the first slab you pass on
the Last Butt One Level.
that goes over the hillock and rejoins the
track. Once on this track carry straight
on ignoring the maze of tracks until the
ground drops away and you can see the
Last Butt One Level and the smaller track
that descends and then contours onto
the level.
GUIDEBOOK
A55 Sport Climbs 3rd Edition (2019)
published by Pesda Press and written
by Michael Doyle. 6
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 37
EASY CLIMBS

Recommended Routes:

Pendulum Corner (F5+) Agent Orange (F5)

The leftmost route at the left side of the crag
climbs up a vague rib to get to an overlap
where you track left to gain the slabby
corner. This is climbed to the top passing
more than enough bolts to keep you safe.
Big A55 Arête (F6a+)
This starts up the same rib as Pendulum
Corner, but carries on up the more
prominent arête all the way. Generally,
the climbing is F5+, save for a crux
section near the top of the arête. The
crux can feel a little contrived, given that
if you step down from the crux and then
step left you can avoid it by climbing the
top of Pendulum Corner. This link of
Pendulum Corner and Big A55 Arête is in
my opinion better than Pendulum Corner
as the climbing is more exposed but
around the same F5+ grade.
Whilst this looks and feel a little steeper,
it is still possible to keep most of the
weight on your feet. However, after
climbing the initial corner you then break
out left onto what feels like a vertical
shield of rock with a covering of good
holds. You follow these to a bold and
memorable exit up and left to easier
ground to a shared lower-off with the
previous two routes.

LAST BUTT ONE LEVEL

– LEFT-HAND AREA
1. Pendulum Corner (F5+)
2. Big A55 Arête (F6a+)
3. Agent Orange (F5)
4. Smart A55 (F4)
5. Jack A55 Slab (F4)
6. Shakin’ That A55 (F4)
7. Silly A55 Arête (F6a+)
Big A55 Arête (F6a+)
8. The Little One (F3)
follows this prominent
arête all the way with 9. Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy (F2)
a crux section towards
10. Happy Slappy (F2, F6c)
the top where Mark
Reeves is. 11. Call the ‘Trad’ Police (F4+)

10

1
4

3, 4
1, 2 5
11
6 7 8 9, 10

38 MAY–JUN 2021 www.climber.co.uk

 EASY SPORT CLIMBING – LAST BUTT ONE LEVEL, PENMAENBACH QUARRY

Jack A55 Slab (F4)

This felt like the best of the easy F4 slabs
around. although truth be told if F4 is
your grade then the other routes on this
slab (Smart A55 and Shakin’ That A55)
are worthwhile.

The Whole of the Law (F6c)

Not really an easy route but it is definitely
one of the better routes on this level and
good if you want to really push your
grade. Although some of the clips are
pretty tricky to make on lead, especially
the first and second bolts from the ledge
at about 10m. To overcome this, I stood
on the ledge and clipped into a bolt (for
safety and without weighting the bolt)
and pulled a clip stick up so I could get
the quickdraw in place before making
the moves. Above this the arête turns
technical, balancy and sustained; lovely.

A55 Hole Arête (F5+)

The left arête of the first slab you pass on
the level is a classic, as are all the routes
there and all worth climbing. Again,
balance you way upwards, with a few
seemingly bold moves to reach the next
bolt, although it must be said that these Katie Haston makes her
sections are generally easier climbing and way up the very well
good holds appear when you need them. bolted and absorbing
Pendulum Corner (F5+).
Jefferson Slab (F6a)
Only slightly harder than its neighbour-
ing arête, in fact it, is hard to tell them
apart if you use your feet well; a cracker
of a climb.

A55 Crack (F6b+)

A great route for breaking into the grade,
as the route has a gentle start that leads
into a short crux section. This requires
finger strength to utilise a thin crack and
very precise and demanding footwork at
the same time to get through the well-
protected crux. Once through this, easier
and very enjoyable ground above awaits.
It is a popular route and given the need
for precise footwork needed, it’s the scene
of much frustration as people try to write
cheques their bodies struggle to cash. ■

LAST BUTT ONE LEVEL

– RIGHT-HAND SLAB
1. Jack the Jeffer (F6a+)
2. A55 Hole Arête (F5+)
6
3. Jefferson Slab (F6a)
4. Y Clip Aur (F5+) 3 4 5
5. A55 Crack (F6b+) 1 2

6. Kiss My A55 Slab (F6c+)

www.climber.co.uk MAY–JUN 2021 39

destination

the state of the art

SOUTHERN SANDSTONE
Words and photography by daimon Beail

James Nicholson enjoying
SW Corner Scoop (F6a+)
on the Inaccessible Boulder
at Stone Farm.
Very rarely does the southeast of England get a look in
from the climbing media at large. Other areas tend to get
more coverage due to the style of ascents and rock type
and most articles tend to be related to well-known areas
like the Peak. Over the Covid-19 period, just after the
first lockdown in 2020, sandstone was undoubtedly the
busiest climbing destination in the UK. Due, primarily,
to its close proximity to London and the only rock in the
southeast, Harrison’s Rocks took the brunt of the impact
along with Eridge and Stone Farm Rocks.
Inevitably climbing at Eridge had to be suspended due to
damage and Bassett’s Farm was rammed like never before,
causing a temporary suspension to ensure future access could
be maintained. Mass concentrations of people, some of whom
had never climbed on sandstone before, or even on rock, took
what skills and knowledge they had of indoor climbing and
took it to the sensitive sandstone outcrops of the southeast.
The result was a battle of survival to both protect the
rocks and access, with rock and ground eroding and
some people flaunting access agreements in some areas.
Online campaigns on social media and the web,
through Southern Sandstone Climbs and the BMC, took
urgent efforts to help educate those new to sandstone
and its specific code of practice. A large number of people
did educate themselves concerning the code of practice,
through online resources and guidebooks. This was
clearly demonstrated by their efforts and those people
were commended and welcomed with open arms (at
a two-metre distance).
As walls reopened the traffic on sandstone eased
somewhat, but not before leaving those who got to
grips with this great rock, with a newfound love for
outdoor climbing and southern sandstone.

40 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk


Southern SandStone
The southeast has 12 climbable venues,
all with varying degrees of access. Some
of the smaller venues have unique
characteristics which, in recent years,
have found new levels of popularity,
particularly amongst boulderers. Through
Covid-19 indoor climbing walls shut
down and smaller venues began to see
further increases in traffic, which did
cause its own issues. Access to some
of these venues are fundamentally only
for a limited number of people and High
Rocks Annexe which requires permission,
incurred a large number of violations to
this rule and as such put access at risk.
Through the chaos, some notable
(and some not so notable) projects
went down. It was if the main lockdown
had created newfound forms of caged
power which was released upon the
rocks reopening. Notably High Rocks
Annexe, favoured by highball climbers,
but commonly top-roped, saw a new
and ground-breaking ascent at the
latter part of 2020. Scoliosis, a F8a+ was
put up by Rhys Whitehouse and was
significant, as it highlighted that there
are still outstanding projects (although
hard) on unclimbed rock to be had, even
though sandstone is rapidly running out
of space.
Other crags in the areas like the
hidden and condition-dependent Bull’s
Hollow and the mini Fontainebleau,
The STaTe of The arT – SouThern SandSTone
Toad Rocks, along with Mount Edgcum-
be Rocks and Happy Valley all saw
increase interest especially with the
summer months bringing favourable
dry conditions to the area. Under Rockes
and Bassett’s Farm, both very minor
venues, also had their visitor number
increase to such an extent that one crag
in particular, Bassett’s Farm, required a
temporary suspension of climbing as
these venues are only suitable for low
key and low numbers visits.
Southern SandStone
– GiantS
The giants of the sandstone outcrops,
Eridge, Bowles, High Rocks, Harrison’s
and Stone Farm are perhaps the most
notable and better-known venues in the
area. Eridge Rocks, which is owned by
the Sussex Wildlife Trust, is a long
stretch of sandstone outcrop which is
notorious for being softer and more
sensitive to erosion. It has become
increasingly popular with boulderers
and top-rope climbers through the years.
Eridge, unfortunately, did not stand up
too well to the Covid onslaught and
subsequently had climbing suspended
due to damage, primarily due to people
climbing on wet rock, not cleaning feet
before climbing, brushing and overwork-
ing problems. Eridge does now have
a contender for the hardest climb on
sandstone, which was put up by Peter
Zara Bloomfield nears the
top of the superb Niblick
(F6b) on the Wellington
Block at Harrison’s Rocks,
regarded as one of the
best routes on southern
sandstone.
Wycislik, who is one of sandstone’s
strongest and more secretive climbers.
Alone was climbed in May 2020 just
after lockdown ended.
High Rocks, has seen a significant
period of climbing suspension but
recently reopened (for now) with specific
and limited access, boasts some of the
highest sandstone walls in the area and
perhaps some of the most sought-after
hard climbs on Sandstone. One of which
The Second Generation (F8a+) saw a
recent rare ascent by Ben Read back
in October 2020.
The ever so popular Stone Farm, due
to its proximity to London, is perhaps
the smallest of the big ones. Its climbs
are favoured by many and for its unique
setting and rock formations. With well-
equipped climbs (bolt anchors) and good
bouldering opportunities, Stone Farm
can often be busy on weekends.
Bowles, which is owned by the
Bowles Rocks Trust, is a special venue to
many and some people’s first experience
on sandstone. Wondrous large sand-
stone formations with easy access and
perhaps the most accessible toilet
facilities at an outcrop for climbers in
the UK, are complemented by a vast
amount of popular and high-quality
climbs. The small entrance fee goes
straight to the Trust and also towards
the upkeep of the rocks of which they
do an excellent job. 6
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 41
destination

WHERE ARE THOSE SUPER SANDSTONE ROUTE HARRISON’S ROCKS

The king/queen of sandstone outcrops is
RECOMMENDATIONS? Harrison’s Rocks. Harrison’s (and Stone
Southern sandstone has many routes and problems of varying styles and Farm) are owned and managed by the
difficulty, not all of them would make a top 10 list but could well equal any BMC and its volunteers. It was in 2007
of them. Guidebooks do a great job of helping climbers identify climbs and that the rocks ownership was transferred
problems that are more suited to their tastes and as such a top 10 should be to the BMC from Sport England and the
sourced within the pages of those guides at this time, especially on sandstone. Harrison’s Rocks Management Group
Additionally, Covid-19 created a unique situation in 2020 which dramatically (HRMG) have been the guardians of the
brought new climbers to an abrupt transition from indoor to outdoor climbing. crag since 1997. Prior to the HRMG, it
The gradual learning curve normally undertaken was to all sense and purposes was the Harrison’s Rocks Management
removed, leaving some climbers high and dry when it came to looking for Committee of which Terry Tullis was a
information or reading the small print (such as the Code of Practice) putting key member. Terry Tullis had, prior to
themselves in a potentially damaging situation when it came to climbing his retirement in 1999, been involved
on sandstone. A top 10 list of climbs for each crag would definitely require with conservation work at Harrison’s
a supporting layer which a guidebook could offer and not something in print for approximately 36 years since first
at this very much extraordinary time. starting out in 1963, and more officially
in 1979 when he became the Harrison’s
Rocks warden.
The HRMG in its current state has
further reaches than most people realise,
into specialist areas and knowledge and
most importantly passion for the rocks.
Good working relationships continue
with Forestry England who now own
and maintain the car park and facilities
used by walkers and climbers alike,
including a rather unique campsite
(some refer to it as camp 4) which was
named in memory of Julie Tullis. Julie
(Terry’s late wife) was the first British
woman to summit K2, though subse-
quently perished in a tragic accident
upon her descent.
Bob Moulton who still sits on the
HRMG, much to the relief of many of its
members, has had a long and involved
history with the rocks and was a key
member of the original HRMG when
it was first set up back in 1997 and, as
such, has been a member of it for over
23 years. It is to people like Bob and
Terry and all those who have taken such
an active role in the conservation of
Harrison’s that we are still able to climb
there today.
Harrison’s, for those who don’t know,
sits next to the village of Groombridge
which is a stone’s throw from the town
of Royal Tunbridge Wells. It has an
extraordinary amount of climbing to
explore with varying degrees of difficulty
and climbing styles. Slabs to overhangs,
boulder problems to 11m-high routes.
For boulderers, there are a good number
of dedicated problems found on the North
and Knight’s Boulder with additional
specific boulder problems along the crag.
Routes stretch from short easy climbs
on the Sandown Crags to challenging
overhanging classics like Hangover 3
Blue Peter (F6b+) in the at the Long Layback area or Philippa
Panther’s Wall area of on the Crucifix Wall. Fifteen out of the
Harrison’s Rocks give Fifty Sandstone Classics listed in the
a neat little climb. Laura Southern Sandstone Climbs (Rockfax)
Pack-Hagan climbing. guide are at Harrison’s. They all boast

42 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk

 The STaTe of The arT – SouThern SandSTone

Emma Harrington works

her way up the flakes on
the Quiver (F6c), Archer’s
Wall, Harrison’s Rocks.

something to whet the appetite of any

climber. Climbs like Niblick, graded F6b,
are testaments to what sandstone has
on offer. A tower of technical and
rather unique moves to a top-out into
immaculate surroundings. Unclimbed
Wall of the same grade, crossing a
slightly off-vertical wall to a crux move
just shy of the top often stumps many.
Isolated Buttress Climb (F4c) is one of the
earliest climbs to be done at Harrison’s
back in 1926. Many people can get a
taste of the grand history of Harrison’s
when climbing this route and many
others which were first put up in the first
half of the 20th century. To the left side Harrison’s Rocks.
of the roof, of which Isolated Buttress
Climb exits to the right, is very much a With the increased popularity of make life easier and this also attracts
product of 21st-century climbing. Pollet climbing, certain areas at Harrison’s climbers to climb specific climbs along
Virtue at F8a+ is Harrison’s hardest climb have seen some significant work in re- the crag. The large bolts/anchors which
and amongst one of the hardest on cent years, to open up and make further are used are roughly sunk 20cm into the
sandstone. climbs more accessible where they were sandstone and are only intended to be
Long Layback is undoubtedly the most not so much before. This has proved very pulled in one direction and only by body
popular climb at Harrison’s, located in popular and helped spread the load, so weight. Not all bolts are conveniently
a corner being held apart by a long and to say. Work like this is continuing and placed though, so bring extra-long
mesmerising tree root. Laybacking for additionally, the Woodland Management slings as well as a static rope to protect
the most part but it often takes most by Plan helps bring light to the rocks and equipment and ensure your ropes are
surprise as it lures you into a false sense as such, areas of rock are now coming way over the edge and don’t cut through
of security just before the top. into condition far more easily than they the rock like butter.
Away from the popular classics lie once did. Harrison’s can’t be mentioned much
a vast array of additional hidden gems Another reason that climbs at these days without a note concerning
which often escape the eyes of first time Harrison’s are popular is perhaps the Isolated Buttress which has been the
and occasional visitor and these are ease of which they can be protected. focus of some very passionate and
well worth seeking out once you have Either with tree anchors or, more heated debates concerning a bridge, to
found your footing in the Harrison’s commonly, by bolted anchors at the help return access to the isolated block,
climbing arena. top of the rocks. Bolted anchors do to what it once was (almost). 6

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 43

destination
Opposite page: Alex
Armitage climbing
sandstone classic Pig’s
Nose (F5c) at Bowles Rocks.
The gear needed for sandstone top-rope climbing – see Codes of Practice (Rules)
section above right.
44 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk
ADAPTATION
Starting out on sandstone is like a bad
night out on the town. It can cause
ego-crushing moments, potential rela-
tionship breakdowns and Chernobyl-like
side effects, with a wicked hangover the
next day and a never-again mentality.
It’s like drinking too much home-made
schnapps in one go i.e. jumping to take
down a grade you’re expecting to do
well at (and failing miserably), on rock
you’re not familiar with, without learning
to master movement and technique. It
requires care and delicate technique to
succeed and operating at a grade way
below your first expectations.
As with all things you are tempted
back for another night out, though this
time you take it easy, mastering the skills
required and suddenly finding yourself
sticking to some of that amazing friction
that can be found and ticking those
grades you first expected.
For those who have mastered the sand-
stone technique (just like grit or limestone)
have unravelled futuristic climbs which
have attracted many world class climbers
to the area, in order to repeat and make
their mark. Some of these people have
taken up residence at various points
throughout sandstone’s history.
Anchor ropes must be extended and protected for
top-roping (or bottom rope) set ups and moving
ropes should hang free, avoiding contact with the
rock where possible.
CODES OF PRACTICE (RULES)
Sandstone is undoubtedly some of the softest climbable rock found in the
UK and is quite literally compressed sand with a thin hardened layer, which
is why it’s top-rope or solo climbing only (no protection-placed lead climbing
at all). Not everyone quite appreciates this and those individuals are often
found scrubbing holds with toothbrushes making things worse rather than
better, often creating further areas of broken rock and wondering why they
can’t grip. Because of how the rock is, cleaning requires either a blow or
light brushing using a super soft cleaning brush (often used for cleaning
cars). Subsequently to avoid damage to the rock, toothbrushes and boulder-
ing brushes are banned. Anchor ropes must be extended and protected for
top-roping (or bottom rope) set ups and moving ropes should hang free and
avoid contact with the rock where possible.
Feet have to be 100% free of dirt and sand before touching the rock. Dirty
or sandy feet means you will fail and cause damage, so if you’re setting off
without cleaning your feet, you know what others are thinking. Sandstone
can also absorb moisture like a sponge, so avoid climbing in the rain and
on damp rock at all costs. Holds will blow.
Also, as sandstone is top-rope climbing, it’s worth noting that lowering-off
once completing a climb is not permitted and also incurs a zero-ascent mark
as all climbs must be topped out, ethically and to avoid unnecessary damage.
This also leads to abseiling which is not permitted also. Doing any of the
things you should not do does attract guardians and they will politely note
the Code of Practice to you. Continuing to violate the rules will later result
in a gypsy curse and 15 years’ bad luck. One person even reported waking
up next to a horse’s head.
It’s also worth noting that although solo climbing has often been
considered the ultimate form of ascent, it is undoubtedly high-risk more
so due to the nature and potential fragile state of the rock, which is why
highballing above mats is more commonplace if choosing this method.
WHAT GRADE IS IT AGAIN?
Back in the mid-90s sandstone was a
place of special interest, a venue more
than equal in stature to, say, the Dorset
coastline or the Peak District. Climbing
walls were few and far between in
London and the southeast and on top
of that some sandstone crags were also
banned, Eridge is a good example of this.
Guidebooks for the area were rather
primitive to the standards we see today,
being black and white and primarily a
list of climbs. For anyone thrown into
the clutches of the southeast outcrops
at the time, it felt a little like a Wicker
Man climbing experience, and to top
it off, a slightly out of kilter grading
system for good measure.
The UK technical grade which was
the primary grade used on sandstone
for a long time only worked realistically
when used with the adjective grade as
found with traditional grades. Adjective
grades like HVS and E1 give much better
understandings of how hard or easy
a climb is compared to the technical
grade alone, but on sandstone, the
technical grade only depicted the
difficulty of the hardest move alone
and things soon ran into trouble when
harder climbs came into the arena. 6
The STaTe of The arT – SouThern SandSTone

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 45

destination

Daimon Beail climbs The
Wall at Bull’s Hollow Rocks,
a brilliant route at F6c.
UK 6b, for instance, has the potential to
be measured against the French sport
grades 7a to 8a which clearly demon-
strated a problem. Guidebook writers
have battled to stabilise the grades on
sandstone and bring things in line with
the general perception of the grade
elsewhere, though always hard to do
when moving from one rock type to
another.
Work first began in 1979 where grades
to that point were based more on the
Fontainebleau grading system. A shift to
bring grades more in line with the UK
technical grade used elsewhere began.
Climbs published in the fourth edition
of The Climbers’ Club Guide to the area
Southern Sandstone (1981) by Tim
Daniells (Edited by Bob Moulton and the
first guide to use the name Southern
Sandstone as the title) had a large
number of climbs regraded to accommo-
date this move. A good example of this
was the regrading of Niblick at Harrison’s
Rocks, from 5c to 5b. Although this was
a bold move and somewhat necessary,
as standards continued to rise over time
the grade came into flux.
It was not for another 19 years
that another guidebook author, David
Atchison-Jones, developed a plus
system for the UK technical grade for
his 2000 guidebook Sandstone – South
East England. This was significant in
highlighting the continuing problem
of how some climbs struggled to reside
within the current constraints of the
UK technical system. Unfortunately, as
sandstone became more popular with
new climbers, this added to another
issue whereby climbers would mistake
the grade for the more popular French
sport grade, with dire consequences for
people’s egos.
Ten years later in 2010, David took yet
another step to add an adjective grade in
the form of the Font grade. In 2011 Ben
Read and James O’Neil published their
Southern Sandstone Bouldering guide
and exclusively used the Font grade for
problems and highballs. There was a
clear lean towards the use of alternative
grades and a move away from the UK
technical grade which was now showing
significant signs of age and breaking at
the seams.
When development work was
undertaken on the Rockfax Southern
Sandstone Climbs guidebook, it was
clear that another shift towards a more
stable grade was needed, and after
significant research and discussions,
it was clear that this should be the
redpoint French grade commonly used
elsewhere, especially when describing
top rope climbs. This move was to help
modernise sandstone and its grades to
almost define two grades for climbing,
the Font grade for bouldering and the
sport grade, as its commonly known,
for top rope and solo climbing.
UK technical grades continue to be
present in the Rockfax guide but serving
as a transition marker to the French
grades. Sandstone grades are notoriously
tough at times, even with a French
counterpart shedding more light.
Consensus will undoubtedly shift more
grades into line over time to the point
of which the grading chapter will, finally,
close to a healthy realm of individual
odd climb debate.
The next generation of climbers have
been raising the bar quite significantly
over the last 10 years. Chimaera, one of
the hardest climbs on sandstone was so-
loed by Matt Cousins in 2013, something
inconceivable then and to be honest,
now. Ben Read and Peter Wycislik both
added Font 8a problems to Eridge’s
impressive portfolio of hard climbs and
later Ben Read also added Brutus – Low
Start and Read Rage graded both Font
8a+. F8a and F8a+ are now more com-
monplace and as noted earlier, we may
now have a contender for sandstone’s
first F8b, but this is to be confirmed.
As sandstone culture moves strongly
towards the digital and more accessible
realm, climbers are able to obtain and
record information in new ways. New
routes recorded online, news more
readily available online, through Southern
Sandstone Climbs and social media
outlets. For sandstone climbers, it’s
important to stay in touch with what’s
going on and to keep up-to-date with
access and conservation and keep the
rock there for future generations. The
community of climbers on sandstone
clearly demonstrate this passion by
helping inform and educate others about
the Code of Practice, involving them-
selves with BMC workdays or separately
run Southern Sandstone Volunteer group
projects and fighting for access where at
times this has been problematic. If you’re
living in the vicinity of the southeast
you will undoubtedly feel the draw of
sandstone and depending on how deep
you go, could become Harrison’s Rock
Management Group (HRMG) member or
even run a sandstone website or become
a guidebook author one day.
For more information see: www.
Southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk or
get hold of a copy of Southern Sandstone
Climbs (2017) mentioned here or Southern
Sandstone (Climbers’ Club 2008). n

46 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk

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james Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini

MENTAL STATE
FOR CLIMBING james Pearson writes:

i often tell people that climbing is at least 50% in your mind. Whilst it’s probably fair to say
that figure is a little random and definitely pulled out of nowhere scientific, i really feel that
how i am in my head changes everything at the crag or the gym. a good day where i’m feeling
physically strong can sometimes give terrible results, if my head is not there, and a bad day
can sometimes finish unimaginably.

As an incredibly complex sport, it

should come as no surprise that
climbing, with its multitude of tiny
and often complicated movements
to master, is difficult if we can’t fully
concentrate. Deeper than that, the
emotional side of things also has a
huge impact on performance. I’m sure
everyone would agree that if we feel
great, we are more likely to perform
well, but did you know it’s actually
possible to alter your mental state
with the express goal of improving
your performance? A great example of
this is listening to some your favourite
psych music whilst training. It’s not
just about having some cool beats to
pass the time but music has been prov-
en to change your state of mind and,
in relation to climbing performance,
it can do all sorts of crazy things.
Recalling some particularly bold routes
from my past, from time to time I’ve even
climbed with headphones playing some
of my favourite tunes, as without that
extra little help the pressure of dealing
with the situation was simply too much.
The music not only allowed me to
concentrate on something else other
than the stress but it also helped me to
ground myself in familiar emotions –
James climbing Reverrence transporting part of my subconscious to
(F8c+) in the Antalya region a successful training session in the past
of Turkey. “This is the finest where everything seemed to flow. Whilst
route I ever bolted, and not to listening to music is certainly powerful
be arrogant, the best route it’s not always practical or even possible.
I ever climbed on limestone. Luckily, with training and practise, we all
I had a rare moment of sport have the potential to change our mental
climbing magic on the first state at whim, simply by wishing to do so.
ascent of this one, where Unsurprisingly, for anyone who has
I climbed to the top way ever had the chance to meet him, or even
before I thought I would… watched him on video, one of the greatest
Don’t ask me how and why!” mental strengths I’ve ever seen is Yuji
Photo: Once Upon a Climb Hirayama. Yuji has climbed and excelled

48 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk


in most of the disciplines you find in the
sport today. From boulders to big walls,
trad to World Cup competitions, Yuji is
not only able to function at the top of his
physical capabilities but with added
pressure he surpasses what he’s able to
do in training. Caroline often describes
the appeal of competitions as taking
away all of your control. Unlike regular
climbing, where we wait to feel in shape,
wait for a good day of conditions, wait
for the best time of day etc competitions
force you to climb at your best whenever
the competition decides. People deal
with, and respond to, this challenge in
different ways. At one extreme you train
your physical capacity to a far greater
level to soak up any loss you might find
on D-Day. On the other you work on
your mental game to make sure you give
your very best when the time is right.
Whilst Yuji is definitely not alone in
the ranks of mentally gifted competitors,
what sets Yuji apart from others is how
well he’s able to use his gift to excel at
all other aspects of climbing. I’ve
personally witnessed him climb hard
sport routes on his final attempt of the
last day of the trip, as well as bold trad
routes when falling is not an option. In
both situations just a few hours before
he still seemed far away from the level
required to actually climb the pitch but,
when needs must, Yuji knows how to put
his body and mind into gear, in all styles.
On first glance this doesn’t seem so
shocking. The two experiences ultimately
come down to the same challenge of
finding the best in yourself when failure
is not an option, just like in a competition
and so someone who can do one should
be able to do them all right? In my own
experience it’s not quite that simple, as
there are subtle yet important differences
in the type of stress that make the over-
all experience anything but the same.
I started climbing 20 years ago, and
contrary to what most people might
think, I’ve spent the most part of the last
15 years concentrating on sport climbing.
Despite the significant amount of time
I’ve invested, and the chance I have of
living in one of the best countries in the
world for sport climbing (France), as well
as being married to an awesome sport
and competition climber, I’m still far
from an expert in this field.
In comparison, when it comes to trad
climbing, big run-outs and risk, I feel like
I can hold my own with some of the best
in the business. In the last 12 months
I’ve created hard multi-pitch adventure
routes in Ethiopia, repeated one of the
boldest climbs on gritstone and made
the second ascent of Tribe, widely
regarded as a contender for the world’s
hardest trad route – all this is with no
trad-specific training. Believe it or not,
the last time I felt purely focused on trad
climbing would probably be around 2003
when Toby Benham and I spent an entire
winter focused on climbing hard grit,
culminating in Toby’s ascent of Harder
Faster at Black Rocks. I’m not saying that
I never go trad climbing and I’ve
definitely been on plenty of trad specific
MENTAL STATE FOR CLIMBING
trips but the majority of my time and 8 A young James Pearson
my training, the real bread and butter climbing his first new route
of my climbing, has for many years back in 2003 with the first
been focused on sport climbing. ascent of DynoMight (E7 6b)
So why is it then that I feel so much at Black Rocks in Derbyshire.
more comfortable when trad climbing Photo: David Simmonite
in comparison to climbing on bolts?
For one reason or another I’m able to 4 Top climber Yuji Hirayama,
deal with, and capitalise on, the certain a man with great mental
pressure of ‘falling = injury’ all whilst strength and a joy to spend
the more subtle nuances of performance time around. Photo: David
anxiety in sport climbing continue to Simmonite
elude me. At first I thought it due to
simply not knowing how to relax as, to
a certain extent, trad climbing teaches
us to overly control every movement
in order to minimise the chance of an
unexpected slip. Sport climbing on the
other hand needs one to let go, almost
literally. To make the most of whatever
reserves you have, sport climbing asks
you to relax on each move to the point
of almost falling, so you can climb the
route as efficiently as possible.
Whilst this is undoubtedly part of my
issue (I can see the general difference in
my efficiency compared to Caro simply
by comparing our max boulder grade
with max sport grade) there have been
moments during some of my hard trad
climbs where I feel incredibly free and
climb without worrying about the pump
building in my forearms. It would be
understandable on bold routes where
the climbing is rarely physically difficult
but I’ve also experienced this on safer,
harder routes that could be compared
to sport routes missing a few bolts 6
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 49
james Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini
James Pearson flashing
Something’s Burning (E9 7a)
in Stennis Ford, Pembroke in
2014. Photo: David Simmonite
50
(Rhapsody is a great example), and it’s
incredibly liberating to be up there
without a care in the world. Those
special moments usually go hand in
hand with exceptional performances
where significant unexpected gains are
made on the journey towards finishing a
project (Le Voyage) or routes are flashed
or on-sighted (Something’s Burning)
when chances seem very slim.
I’d love to be able to transfer these
skills to sport climbing and, whilst
progress is being made, it’s clearly not
as easy as I hoped it would be, if only
measured by the time I spend working
on it. A typical redpoint process on
a hard sport climb sees me falling
repeatedly on the same move. Or making
slow and steady upwards progress,
falling one move higher each attempt
when excitement induced pump rears its
ugly head when passing my high point.
may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk
On-sight sport climbing is probably my
weakest discipline and, more often than
not, finishes embarrassingly low on my
chosen route when I find myself surprised
by a hold (that nine times out of 10 is
really actually quite good) and see my
wings come up ready for flight a few
seconds later.
Whilst I’m far from a sport climbing
God, however, I might actually be able
to share some words of wisdom on how
I’m slowly improving as bizarrely, even
though I can’t tell you why I’m not as
good as I’d like to be, I feel like I could
probably give you better advice on
training for sport climbing than I could
for getting better at trad. This is simply
because I’m actually having to try to work
it out rather than having it just happen.
In addition to the basic physical work
of spending hours in the gym, turning
around my circuits or lapping routes
back-to-back, I spend a lot of time
visualising my performance, repeating the
physical movements in my head but also
including the emotional aspect of climbing
at my limit. If you’ve never heard of
visualisation before, this might all seem
a little far-fetched, but look at it like this…
A typical climber projecting a route,
works out the moves, starts making
redpoints and after a lot of tries where
they both improve slightly in fitness, but
more precisely learn to be more efficient
in the route, they clip the chains. That,
or they reach a blockage point where
progress slows, stagnates or even starts
to regress, where they might eventually
improve again, or alternatively give
up. What visualisation allows you to
do is to boost or refine this learning
and adaptation process, helping you
to become more efficient through
repetition without actually climbing.
BY REHEARSING THE
MOVES IN YOUR HEAD
AWAY FROM THE
ROUTE ITSELF, YOU
HELP YOURSELF REACT
QUICKER AND CLIMB
MORE EFFICIENTLY
In turn this makes you more successful
on each real try, ultimately reducing the
time you might otherwise have to invest
to climb the route and speeding up your
general progression.
By rehearsing the moves in your head
away from the route itself, you help
yourself react quicker and climb more
efficiently next time you actually climb.
The same can be said for the emotions
you might face, of which there are many,
but we’ll keep things focused on one
or two in this article. A typical sight
at sport crags is climbers going one
or two moves higher on each attempt,
seeming to be in great shape, then
suddenly falling overcome with pump.
The highpoint stops being the unknown
and, in that alone, a significant hurdle
in arriving there again has already
been overcome.
On the other hand, they suddenly find
themselves back in the unknown, from
where they are either unsure to have
what it takes, or nervous about falling
when they think they have a chance to
finish it off. Have you ever found yourself
sticking the crux of your project for the
 MENTAL STATE FOR CLIMBING

first time, with only easy ground ahead A turning point. James
and telling yourself: “That’s it, don’t drop Pearson making the first
it now.” How many of you fell off just ascent of The Walk of Life
after, thanks to an incredibly fast onset (E9 6c) at Dyer’s Lookout,
of debilitating pump? A physical reaction North Devon in 2008.
to a mental/emotional stimulus. By visu- Photo: David Simmonite
alising all of these things, actually imag-
ining yourself living the experience, even
falling off and feeling your excitement/
pride/frustration, you’ll have already
been in that moment and will be less
likely to be affected by it when it arrives
for real. It might sound a bit far-fetched,
but it can really work wonders and I’d
recommend any climber to add it into
their training schedule. Especially if they
feel prone to overthinking/over analys-
ing when projecting a specific route.
Coming back to trad climbing the only
advice I can give, which is probably a
contender for the most unhelpful advice
ever given, is just to climb plenty of
really sketchy routes as a young climber.
Preferably when you are young and
ignorant of the real dangers, you need
to get out there and have some real
leg-shaking moments, make some really
bad decisions and, only thanks to a bit
of luck, be able to walk back to the car
at the end of the day. Obviously, I’m not
really recommending this approach but
it’s basically what I did. Although my
first few dangerous routes were a real
shambles, little by little I improved and
evolved. Whilst, at first, the danger ele-
ment definitely brought out the worst in
my climbing I used to want to top-rope
routes 10 times in a row before I’d com-
mit to the lead, knowing on the sharp
end I’d climb like a gibbering wreck.
Eventually the opposite became true,
where danger and commitment would
take my climbing to levels I could only The Walk of Life, whilst still a trad so quickly and he’s not the same person
normally dream about. route, was like nothing I’d climbed from one week to the next. More impor-
The only way I can rationalise this before. Unlike the grit routes I’d grown tantly, I think the first experiences we
progression is that under such intense up on where the actual lead effort might have of something tend to be the ones
pressure, with the consequence of failure be over in less than a couple of minutes, that stick with us and it’s really hard to
being so high, my mind was somehow The Walk of Life took me over an hour break a habit, or re-learn the same skill
able to evolve to survive, forcing myself to climb and my way of coping with the in a different way. Hard grit trad is what
to absorb or develop just the right skill stress fell to pieces. For over an hour I know how to do best and like it or not
set for climbing on the grit. Towards the I tip-toed in terror, certain I would fall I think it will always be that way. Sure,
end of my hard grit days (around 2008) I and die, over-gripping like my life de- I can improve in other aspects, train and
was actually attempting to lead danger- pended on it and obviously getting very, develop skills I feel are lacking and give
ous routes I’d not been able to top-rope very pumped. It wasn’t a fun route to myself the possibility to climb and enjoy
and, not only getting away with it, but climb and, if all the bold routes I climbed other things, but nothing feels quite
really feeling like I was floating up them. felt like that one, I’d have given up trad as much like home as balancing on a
Never to this day have I found peace and climbing a long time ago. Luckily, by smear, slopers in my hands and slack
serenity like that I felt on my hardest working on my general fitness, in time, rope beneath my feet. n
gritstone ascents and the arrogance of I could adapt to climbing longer routes –
youth made me believe I had it all figured allowing my mental tactics to grow and
out. Long story short, a certain long and change, eventually finding similar expe-
scary slab on the north Devon coast put riences in the mountains and sea cliffs to Caroline and james are supported by Edelweiss, La Sportiva, The North
a quick end to that, and after coming to those of my early grit routes. Face, Wild Country, Altimssimo and Biomechanica. They founded the S.P.O.T.
terms with the fact I wasn’t God’s gift to You can’t teach an old dog new tricks project, a charity aimed at helping less fortunate climbers. You can find out
climbing, a realisation that I still had a and, inversely, it’s easier to learn new more about this and maybe make a donation, buy a T-shirt or pass on some
lot left to learn set me on the path I’m things when you are young. I can see that climbing gear at www.spotclimbers.com
still walking today. already with Arthur, he picks things up

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 51

feature

LEADING THE WAY

THE PINNACLE CLUB TURNS 100
The Pinnacle Club – the national women’s rock-climbing club – celebrates its centenary
this year. Abi Chard digs into the archives to look at how the Club was founded and what
it still means today.

26th March 1921. Nine women gather

in the billiard room of the Pen y Gwryd
Hotel below Pen y Pass in Snowdonia
for the inaugural meeting of the
Pinnacle Club. It opens with a stirring
speech by Eleanor Winthrop-Young,
known as Len, their soon-to-be Club
President.
The small numbers in the room belie
the enthusiasm that there was for the
creation of a national rock-climbing club
for women. Almost as many again had
intended to be there to witness the birth
of the new club, but, true to form, they
were still out climbing on Tryfan and The
Parson’s Nose or squirming their way up
Lockwood’s Chimney and arrived just as
the meeting ended. Nevertheless, the
newly elected committee had over 40
application forms to look through from
women keen to join. By its second year,
the Club’s membership had swelled by
half as much again. Not bad for a sport
in which women were very definitely
the minority.
The Pinnacle Club was not the first
women’s climbing club in the UK. The
Ladies Alpine Club came first in 1907,
with members mainly in the south of
England and, as the name implies, a
focus on Alpine ascents. The Ladies
Scottish Climbing Club arrived a year
later, drawing its membership from
women interested in summer and
winter mountaineering in that country.
The Pinnacle Club was different. It
had an unashamed focus on rock-climb-
ing in its own right, even though at the
time this was sometimes still viewed as
a ‘lesser’ sport, merely preparation for
proper mountaineering. The Club’s
objectives were specifically to ‘foster
the independent development of
Jill Lawrence and Gill Price rock-climbing amongst women and
at Raven Crag in the Lake bring together those interested in the
District in 1984 during filming pursuit’. Although open to women in
for Border Television where the UK and abroad, ‘Pinnaclers’ as they
they climbed Empire (E3 6a). then called themselves, hailed mainly
Photo: Border Television from the north of England.

52 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk

 Leading the way – the PinnacLe cLub turns 100

The Club wasn’t set up in anger or from

antagonism to the male-dominated climb-
ing world, but rather to create something
new that would enrich it, according to
Pinnacle Club archivist Margaret Clennett:

“Many of those who joined the Club

were already members of the Fell
and Rock Climbing Club which was
one of the few that accepted both
men and women,” she says. “The
Rucksack Club also helped out,
with joint meets and space in their
journal before we had our own, so
the Club could record its activities.”

The rationale for the Club was in large

part about the issue of leading. This was
a far more serious job in the 1920s than
it is now. Along with limited protection
and hemp rope tied round the waist
came the adage that ‘the leader must not
fall’. As such, the strongest or most ex-
perienced of any party tended to lead the
route. Couple this with social attitudes
to ‘the weaker sex’ and, in reality, this
meant that women rarely took the lead
in mixed groups.
President Len Winthrop-Young and
Club Secretary Emily Kelly describe this
dynamic, writing jointly in the Rucksack
Journal of 1922.

‘In climbing with men, where ‘the

best must lead’, women have little
opportunity to master, or to enjoy, the
finer points and sensations of the art
itself; to learn the business of finding
their climbs, of steering a mountain-
eering course or of exercising
judgement and responsibility in the
actual climbing. To meet this general
want, the new Club makes a special
feature of the training of its begin-
ners, both in route-finding and in
technique; and in order to maintain
the standard, it supplies an energetic
central criticism – free from the polite
restrictions imposed by differences
of sex – of the methods and the
capabilities of all its members’.

The focus on training – and the scarcity of

women leaders at the time – meant the
Club allowed two types of membership;
full members who could lead competently
and less experienced associates, who 8 Emily Kelly making a solo
could not. In the early days, as there was ascent of Scoop Face (HVS
sometimes a shortage of leaders, men 5a) at Castle Naze in 1920.
were occasionally recruited from the FRCC A route that commands
or Rucksack Club to help out on meets. respect even today. Photo:
However, not all in the climbing world A Burgess
supported the concept of a women’s
climbing club – and the article on the 4 Angela Soper climbing
Club’s founding in the first journal in Blizzard Ridge (HVS 5a) at
1924 talks of ‘fierce opposition to parry Rivelin Edge near Sheffield in
and overcome’. 6 the mid-80s. Photo: Ian Smith

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 53

feature
Eleanor Winthrop-Young
at Pen y Pass Hotel, North
Wales in 1926. Photo:
Pinnacle Club Archive
54 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk
“Most men climbers then, if they
gave the idea a moment’s attention,
thought it at least very odd. Not
too many women climbers really
thought it a practicable scheme,”
recalled founding member Dorothy
Pilley in the Club’s 50th anniversary
journal, where she also recounted
“what would-be women climbers
had to put up with by way of
mockery and waggery in the late
‘teens and early twenties of this
century.”
Put this in context for a moment: in
1921, only women over 30 who owned
property could vote; married women
were barred from many professions;
a woman wearing trousers still had the
power to shock. Luckily then, as now,
climbing circles were less bound by
convention than the rest of society.
TRIUMPH AND TRAGEDY
The March meeting in 1921 was the
result of several years’ preparation,
most of it driven forward by the woman
credited as the Club’s founder and first
Secretary; Emily Kelly, known as Pat.
Pat had first conceived of the idea of a
women’s climbing club several years
before and worked hard to generate
those first 40 application forms, either
through her own contacts or by writing
speculative letters to women climbers
of whom she was aware.
Pat had come to climbing late, when
she was 42 years old, introduced to the
sport by her husband whom she’d
married a few years earlier. She was
clearly talented and soon became a very
competent and assured climber, often
soloing on Derbyshire gritstone, as
described in the first Pinnacle Club
journal:
‘Few have ever moved more lightly
or surely, with better balance or
more of that confidence which
comes from the perfect realisation
of her own powers and the problem
before her. She was a climber whom
one watched not only with admira-
tion, but without the slightest sense
of anxiety which frequently accom-
panies the watching of others in
exposed positions’.

Pat was small and slim and described
as ‘frail-looking’ but appearances can
deceive. That first journal also talks of her
‘indomitable will, an almost inexhaustible
vitality (which had remarkable powers of
recovery), organizing ability, and selfless-
ness’. She was clearly conscious of ineq-
ualities between men and women from
an early age, having defended the author
George Eliot from ‘the cheap male sneer
that a woman’s only place is at home
looking after the baby’ in a presentation
to a Literary Society while still in her teens.
Not only was her drive pivotal to the
creation of the Club, but she had a strong
influence on how it ran in that first year.
She gave up many hours helping to teach
novices and, by 1924, the Club main-
tained that ‘one result of this is that
Leading the way – the PinnacLe cLub turns 100
today we have a number of women
leading difficult rock climbs on a scale
which would hardly have been possible
had she not come into their lives’.
The Club’s founding was her triumph,
but tragedy was to strike just over a
year later, with her death in April 1922,
following a fall while descending from
Tryfan. She tripped on the way down a
grassy gully, put her hand out to steady
herself on a rock which then gave way,
causing her to fall 150ft. She died a few
days later in Bangor Hospital.
The Club has few photos of Pat in
its archives. “She was quite reserved,
preferring to remain in the background,”
says archivist Margaret Clennett. “She
chose to take on the role of Secretary,
rather than President, as Len Winthrop-
Young was deemed a more high profile
figurehead for the nascent Club, partly
through her father, William Cecil
Slingsby, and husband, Geoffrey
Winthrop-Young, both well-known
mountaineers.”
Pat’s death could have meant the
end of the Club, so central was she
both to its founding and initial success.
Every member knew her well and every
member felt her loss. But, as Len wrote
in the Rucksack Journal in 1923, ‘The
effect of this heavy blow was that every
member of the Club felt a new and
increased responsibility for the carrying
on of work Mrs. Kelly had begun, upon
the lines she hoped it would follow’.
So the Pinnacle Club survived – for
one hundred years and counting. 6
Milena Muhlen on The Fang
(HVS 5a) at Tremadog in
North Wales during the
making of a film about the
club in 2020. Photo: Jessie
Leong/Everyfield Films
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 55
feature

CHANGE AND CONTINUITY

There is no doubt that the world and
climbing has changed hugely since 1921
but there is also so much from those early
years of the Club that still holds true today.
The proliferation of women’s climbing
events shows that there is still an
appetite for spaces where women can
grow independently as climbers. While
the number of female climbers – and
leaders – has increased, women are still
a minority in the sport and that means
some of the same issues that prompted
the creation of the Club remain.
Stereotypes around gender still affect
the dynamic of climbing in mixed groups,
according to Club Treasurer, Milena
von und zur Mühlen: “In my university
climbing club, the men were more
outwardly confident, willing to take risks
and push themselves forward,” she says.
“Sometimes I felt my lack of confidence
was interpreted as a lack of competence,
which was never the case at all.
Climbing with women creates a totally
different environment, one that is much
more supportive and encouraging,
allowing you to step up and build your
confidence, drawing on the skills you
already have.”
Plenty of today’s Pinnacle Club
members would also recognise them-
selves in those laggards who rolled in
late to the inaugural meeting rather
than finish climbing early, not least
current President, Alex Nicholson. “Club
committee meetings are held in an
evening on a regular weekend climbing
meet and they rarely start on time if the
weather is good. I’ve often been the one
rushing in at the last minute with glass
in hand,” she admits. “But that’s simply
because now, as then, we’re keen
climbers first and foremost and always
want to get just one more route in.”
While all members now need to be
competent trad leaders, the supportive
atmosphere that helps those with less
experience is still a prominent feature of
the Club. The early Pinnaclers were soon
able to dispense with the help of other
clubs to boost the numbers of leaders
at a meet, but the close relationships
remained and joint meets are still a
regular part of the Club’s calendar.
In the 1920s, simply being a climber
set you apart from the norm, yet the
Club’s founding members were very
self-deprecating about their achieve-
ments. Even those who made history
(the first guideless female ascent in the
Alps in 1923, the first female traverse of
the Cuillin Ridge in 1928) wrote about it
in very low-key terms. Over the years,
the Club has undoubtedly had its ‘stars’,
well-known names in the climbing world
such as Dorothy Pilley, Nea Morin, Gwen
Moffat and Jill Lawrence. Any history of
the Club by default picks these out, but
of the 600 or more who have joined the
club over the last century, the majority
would be classed as ordinary climbers
but when these ‘ordinary’ women come
together in the Pinnacle Club, they create
something extraordinary. Pat Kelly would
surely be proud of her legacy.

The 2019 Pinnacle Club

introductory meet at
Stanage Edge in Derbyshire.
Photo: Pinnacle Club Archive

NO 1950S HOUSEWIVES
As post-war Britain was attempting to push women back from the workplace
into the home, the Club acquired two of its most well-known members. Nea
Morin – who made many Alpine first female ascents and put up the Llanberis
Pass classic that bears her name – joined in 1947. She worked during the
1950s as an instructor at Plas y Brenin. Gwen Moffat joined in 1949, now
aged 96, she is currently the Club’s longest standing member. In 1953,
Gwen qualified as the first female British Mountain Guide and made her
Gwen Moffat climbing living taking others climbing and mountaineering around the UK and Europe.
Superdirect (HVS 5a) The guiding was supplemented by writing and, in 1961, she published her
at Milestone Buttress autobiography, Space Below My Feet, to rave reviews. The book was the
in Ogwen, North Wales in inspiration for the 2015 film, Operation Moffat, which won seven awards
1960. Photo: S R G Bray at international film festivals.

56 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk

 CHECK OUT
THE CLIMBER
DOWN JACKETS AND 80S LYCRA
The 1980s saw another name well-known in the climbing world
become President of the Pinnacle Club – Angela Soper. Angela’s
profile drew many new members to the Club, as did an event she
organised in North Wales in 1984: a women’s international climbing

WEBSITE
meet. The meet brought together some of the best women climbers
in the world: including Catherine Destivelle and Christine Jambert
from France, Rosie Andrews from the USA and Jill Lawrence and Gill
Price from the UK. The highlight was May 29th, Dinas y Gromlech.
Rosie Andrews and Jill Lawrence flipped a coin for the lead. Jill won
the toss and became the first woman to lead Right Wall (E5). On the
same day, avoiding the crowds at the Gromlech, Gill Price and
Mandy Glanvill made the first female ascent of Comes the Dervish,
also graded E5 at the time. Gill, Jill and Mandy joined the Pinnacle
Club the same year and Gill and Mandy remain members to this day.
At the end of the decade, Club member, Rhona Lampard, and
Polish mountaineer, Wanda Rutkiewicz, reached the top of Gasher-
brum II in the Karakoram region, in the first British-led all-female
expedition to an 8,000m peak. The climb was made without high
altitude porters or oxygen and is counted amongst the most
prestigious ascents by women in the Greater Ranges. The eight-
member team also included Club members, Becky Thorp and Brede
Arkless. Brede had followed in Gwen’s footsteps 20 years earlier,
becoming the second woman to qualify as a British Mountain Guide.

A PLACE TO CALL HOME

They must have passed it many times heading back from
Lockwood’s Chimney – always a good option for a wet day – to the
Pen y Gwryd but it wasn’t until Easter 1932, that some members
looked at a cottage just above the Nant Gwynant hydroelectric
power station and saw its potential as a club hut. The Club got
the lease soon after and the Emily Kelly Hut was opened that
November. It had two rooms downstairs with an open fire in one
and a stove in the other and sailcloth bunks to sleep in upstairs.
Cooking was on a primus stove, water came from the stream and
the toilet was… outdoors. If it rained enough, water sprang up
through the floor and you had to keep your feet up to stay dry
but for the Club, it was a dream come true, a place to, finally,
call home. The hut was purchased in 1988 and has since been
extended and modernised – it now has a kitchen, shower and
FOR UP TO DATE NEWS,
toilets, drying room and proper bunks; all mod cons. Tucked
away at the head of the valley and far from the main road, it is
less accessible than many huts, but all the more special for it.
ARTICLES, BOULDERING,
INTERVIEWS, VIDEOS,
History in sight and sound
One hundred years of the Pinnacle Club have been brought to life in a dedicated
COMPETITIONS, REVIEWS,
TRAINING AND SKILLS
website at www.pc100.org which includes archive photos, extracts from journals
and snippets of interviews with Pinnacle Club members, both new and old. Digitising
the Club’s archive and making it accessible in this way has been possible thanks to
a grant from the National Lottery Heritage Fund (NLHF). The full recorded interviews,
with members including Nea Morin’s daughter, Denise Evans, Rhona Lampard,
Angela Soper, Gill Price, Jill Lawrence and Gwen Moffat, will be lodged in the British
Library, to create the first dedicated oral collection on climbing in the library’s
Now easier to navigate and
Sound Archive. Two films are being made through the NLHF grant: one an editing of
footage from a 1960s Pinnacle Club Himalayan expedition, supplemented by
works across all devices
interviews with surviving members; the other looking generally at the Club, past and
future. The Club is planning events throughout the year to highlight its history and
look to the next 100 years. Find them on Facebook or Instagram: @pinnacleclubuk
WWW.CLIMBER.CO.UK
AROUND THE BLOC
THE BEST IN BRITISH BOULDERING

FROGGATT
EDGE
MAIN CRAG BOULDERS
Words and photography by David Simmonite

Derbyshire’s iconic Froggatt Edge is well-known for the superb

collection of routes along its not inconsiderable length and is
festooned with some of gritstone’s finest routes, pioneered by
some of Britain’s best-known climbers. However, few people
know it as well for the quality bouldering that resides there.
Intrigued? Then please read on.

Tody’s Playground is home to a good collection of easier problems including this one,
Tree Wall (V1). Caroline Ciavaldini is making the stretch to the break from the thin flake.

58 MAY–JUN 2021 www.climber.co.uk

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 59
around the bloc

INTRODUCTION PINNACLE BOULDERS

Whilst there are many fine problems throughout the Edge, starting from close The first area you reach by taking the
to the road at the parking at the Hairpin Bend, and continuing in clusters main path is the Pinnacle Boulders.
scattered all the way to the Main Crag at the far end, the focus of this article This set of squat rounded boulders are
will be the Main Crag. sat on top of the edge close to the iconic
Why this area you ask when you allude to other good stuff along the edge? Froggatt Pinnacle and next to the main
In truth, there’s no singular reason apart from keeping the article concise and path from the A625 parking.
not overlong – hence focusing on one part that is easier to navigate, especially What’s great about this area is that
for a first-time visitor, with problems in a more concentrated area. On other there are the number of easier low height
parts of Froggatt, you often have to search around for problems with no real problems on the well-featured rock and
tightly grouped circuits. This, in turn, means a bit of walking and exploring is with predominantly flat landings – perfect
needed to seek out the wheat from the chaff. if you are new to bouldering or climb at
There is a great mix of grades in this area from V0 to V11, with many lower a more moderate grade. It also gives a
grade problems too and you don’t have to walk too far between them once good compact circuit with plenty of flat
you are there, so more time spent bouldering rather than walking. There is a grass for the picnic blanket/bouldering
slight downside, it will take you around 30 minutes or so to get there but the mat to eat your sandwiches and keep
walk is pleasant, flat and the views are stunning. It can also work well as a the family happy too.
family outing – a nice stroll and plenty of places to picnic whilst you style/ With 20 problems to choose from (a
thrash around on a few problems and earn brownie points at the same time. good challenge would be to tick them all
So, what is there at the Main Crag? For the purpose of this article, I’ve split in one session), the problems weigh in
the problems into three main areas – Pinnacle Boulders, Tody’s Playground at V0- to V4 with the majority around V0.
area, and those residing at the base of the edge itself – with a couple of The stand-outs are Areet (V0) up the arête
excellent outliers mentioned if you want to explore further. next to the path on the first boulder
reached, starting on the right and finishing
on the left to a rounded finish. Right of it
is a scooped bulge which is home to two
neat problems, Pick Pocket (V0-) climbing
the left edge of the bulge and The
Northerner (a tricky V2) direct through
the bulge – both are really satisfying.
Heading up onto the boulders behind
this one – these boulders look like
they’ve been trodden on and squished by
a giant but maybe that’s my overactive
imagination. If you like mantels then
this is a good place to be. First up on
the mantel train is Mini Mantel (V0-) and
this is a good one to start your mantel
apprenticeship. Things pick up a bit with
Naughty (V0-), a tad harder and using a
couple of naughty chipped holds to aid
the mantel finish.
Not quite a mantel per se but with a
mantel/roll-over finish is Air Bear (V0-)
using a steep crack to reach jugs and
the aforementioned finishing moves.
Care Bear (V0+) traverses the lip from
the right to gain the finish of Air Bear
and is a wonderful, slightly burly problem.
Finally, for those who like their mantels
tough, then seek out Mantelicious that
squirms direct over a rounded nose.
V4 and worth every penny. By the way,
many of the problems on the Pinnacle
Boulders don’t feature mantels so if you
don’t like them choose any of the others
thereabouts, they are all fun to do.

THE EDGE
If you walk to the end of the Main Crag
and head down back right along the base
Caroline Ciavaldini making of the crag you can search out many fine
the most of a cold winters problems that take in short walls or the
day by bouldering out The start of some of the routes. Starting on
Northerner (V2) on the the very right of the Edge is a gem, at
Pinnacle Boulders. least in my eyes but I daresay some will

60 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk


say otherwise. It comes in the shape
of The Whillans Direct (V3) which is
essentially a direct start to the route
Jankers Groove. The problem was first
climbed by Don Whillans and with such
pedigree, you will know what to expect.
A brutal fist jamming special, although
there is a trick to make it much less
painful though I’m keeping quiet as
it took me a while to figure it out. But,
hey, working it out is part of the fun is
it not? You can up the grade with a sit
start at V4 but you still have to use the
jam at some point.
Froggatt EdgE – Main Crag BouldErs
James Pearson cuts loose
on Jerry Moffatt’s sought-
after highball test piece
Sole Power (V9).
To the left, through the left side of the
undercut arête at the base of Chequers
Buttress, there is a sought-after highball
test piece in the shape of the very
technical and very powerful Sole Power
(V9). First climbed by another legendary
climber, Jerry Moffatt, back in 1983, 6
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 61
around the bloc
8 Caroline Ciavaldini heel
hooking along Care Bear
(V0+) on the Pinnacle
Boulders. This gem traverses
the lip from the right to
gain the finish of Air Bear.
6 Caroline Ciavaldini is
enjoying the moves on
Joe’s Slab (V1), a super
classic problem from
the master Joe Brown.
62 may–jun 2021
and climbed wearing an early pair of
Boreal Firé rock shoes. These were
revolutionary at the time and took the
climbing world by storm with sticky
rubber soles (hence the name) and a
better fit. The right-hand side can also be
climbed; Our Soles (V9). In the bay left
again, two desperate problems exist
(again from Jerry) that see very few
ascents, partly due to the landing and the
height but also the fact they are really
hard. If you fancy either Slingshot (V10)
or Chequers Groove (V11) make sure you
have plenty of skin and pads too.
Interestingly Slingshot was a top-rope
problem before pads existed and the first
ascent above pads was by Mo Overfield
in 2000, 12 years after Jerry’s ascent.
A short distance along is a short wall
leaning against the edge. On the left side
of this, from a small low recess, are a
couple of neat, squat problems in the
form of Spinal Crack (V2) via an undercut
jamming crack and Spinal Tap (V5)
pulling on in the same place but heading
through the bulge rightwards using a
slanting crack.
A short distance along, the next area
for the boulderer is the brilliant Joe’s
Slab. With half a dozen problems and
eliminates, this perfect slab is a test of
one’s technique and footwork. The
original problem, Joe’s Slab (V1), linking
up a collection of small edges was first
climbed by Joe Brown and is still as
www.climber.co.uk

testing and as good as ever. Equally as
fine is the classic Joe’s Slab Arête (V3)
taking the left arête of the slab. Looks
easy doesn’t it but never judge a book by
its cover. Personally, I would go as far as
saying that if you only had time to climb
two problems at Froggatt then these two
would be the ones.
Heading back under the edge in the
direction of the parking you can’t miss
Froggatt Pinnacle. The lower part of this
gives a handful of harder highballs and
whilst the climbing is good, the
downside is none of them finish
anywhere and instead stop at a point a
boulderer would be comfortable with.
Some are basically the start of routes
that continue to the top. Nevertheless,
there a couple of excellent traverses, the
first being Oedipus Traverse at a finger
testing V4 (first climbed by Peak legend,
Tom Proctor, as the start to the route
Oedipus! Ring Your Mother – I told you
some legends had left their mark on the
Edge) and its neighbour Pinnacle Traverse
(V7). If you want to do an ‘up’ problem
then jump on Oedipus Direct (V3) that
reaches good holds at the end of the
Oedipus Traverse.
TODY’S PLAYGROUND
Perhaps my choice bouldering area at this
end of Froggatt is this beauty tucked away
beneath the path that runs under the edge
close to Tody’s Wall. More a short crag
rather than a boulder, this steep wall doesn’t
really have a bad problem on it, the rock
is excellent, it’s nicely sheltered and wait
until you get to the top-outs. All in all, a
pretty neat and secluded part of the edge.
Grade wise it caters for low to mid-grade
boulderer with the problems coming in at
V0 to V3 (albeit apart from a newer addition
based around the low steep bulge at the
left side of the wall that goes at around
V5/6 – Hot Toddy) and there’s nine to try.
Whilst you won’t go wrong with any of
them, my top picks are Tree Wall which
gives a good stretchy problem via a thin,
fingery flake at V1. Immediately right of
this is the splendidly technical The Eyes (V3)
through a pair of eye-shaped dishes. For
a great warm-up, and a way to get the
measure of the wall and the height, you
can’t go wrong with Tody’s Pocket at V0
and a fun, juggy finale. Finally, Tody Bear
(V0+) gains the big flake at the right-hand
end of the wall and is a bit of a reach to
gain the flake but delightful when you do.
Froggatt EdgE – Main Crag BouldErs
OUTLIERS
There are a couple of problems close to the
three areas mentioned that need a shout-
out due to their quality. First up is the
fierce and strenuous problem, Rambeau
(V8), that moves up the overhung slanting
arête at the left edge of the cave in the
Cave Crack area. This is a direct start to
the aforementioned route, Cave Crack,
and was put up by Mark Leach in 1986.
About 50m before the start of the
Main Crag proper and before Strapa-
dictomy Buttress is a beautifully formed
boulder with the awesome classic tra-
verse Ape Drape (V6) – again strenuous,
pumpy climbing moving leftwards on flat
flakes to smaller holds and a sprint for
the finish and a good place to finish this
round-up of the quality problems that
Froggatt has to offer. n
The brilliant Joe’s Slab on
Guidebooks the Main Crag offers up
Peak District Bouldering (Vertebrate half a dozen problems and
Publishing), Peak Bouldering eliminates. All are excellent
(Rockfax) and Froggatt to Black but Slab Arête (V3) is the
Rocks (BMC) stand out. James Pearson
climbing.
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 63
#BelayBetter
ON THE ROUTE
Clipping
Clipping the rope into a
quickdraw whilst lead climbing is
a fundamental component of any
climber’s skillset. It’s essential for
safe climbing and is also an
important part of climbing
performance.
There are many ways to clip the
quickdraw in terms of how you
hold the rope and offer it up to
the carabiner, It’s a good idea to
find a method that you’re
comfortable with that works for
both hands and all sorts of hand
positions.
Everyone has their own preferred
method, but it’s important to
practice it and make sure you’re
confident in it before stepping off
the floor.
If you’re struggling it's worth
practicing on the ground. This
may sound daft, but efficient
clipping makes a huge difference
to overall performance!
Remember that before using your equipment,
you must have read and understood the
supplied Instructions for Use.
Available at
CLIPPING QUICKDRAWS
Image © Petzl / Sam Bie
With small carabiners, it's more Planning your clipping positions before climbing can help you
effective to keep the fingers on the choose the optimal time to clip, avoiding clipping early out of fear,
outside. Stabilise the quickdraw perhaps in stretched out positions and having to pull up lots of
carabiner with the hand on the rope, or clipping too late, potentially even being unable to clip and
outside edges and push the rope
through the gate either with the
risking a big fall! Being comfortable in your clipping technique and
timing allows you to focus more on the climbing!
thumb or first finger (depending on
which way the carabiner is facing).
With larger carabiners, you can put
a finger in the bottom to stabilise it
before inserting the rope (which is
usually pushed through the gate
with the thumb).
Try to preempt your clipping
positions; aim for above waist to
shoulder height, allowing you to
pull up the rope and insert it in one
movement. This way you don’t
need to pull up extra slack (and
hold it in your teeth), which could
result in a long fall!
If the quickdraw ends up
positioned low around the harness
area it can be awkward to get the
rope in - don’t leave it too late!
Think of the ‘clip’ as a ‘move’ on
the route. It costs energy to clip so
make sure you’re as efficient as
possible when clipping to give you
the best chance of climbing the
route.
 ON THE ROUTE

Clipping Errors To Avoid

When clipping, it’s good to run some very quick

safety checks, much the same way as you make
buddy checks on the ground. Of course, energy
is a precious commodity when leading but with
practice, you should be able to do this in the
time it takes to clip and chalk up.

A common mistake is to ‘Z-clip’. This may occur

when the quickdraws are very close together
and in the heat of the moment, we reach down
and take the rope from below the previous 1
quickdraw (instead of from above it) and then
‘high clip’ it into the next draw. The result is that
we can’t proceed due to excessive rope-drag
and the threat of an unpleasant fall. To fix the
problem, down climb, unclip the ‘live rope’ from
the lower draw and then re-clip correctly. Better
still, don’t do it in the first place!

Another classic error is ‘back-clipping’ (referring

to the way we clip the rope into the carabiner).
The rope must always run from the cliffside,
through the carabiner and out to the climber.
Back-clipping can cause two dangerous
scenarios: one is that the rope could pull across
the gate of the carabiner in a fall and unclip
itself. The other may occur if the climber moves
across while climbing above, this can cause the
top carabiner to flip over in the bolt hanger and
in a fall either unclip itself from the bolt or Back Clipping Can Cause The Rope To Unclip Across The Gate
produce a damaging load on an open carabiner.
Available at
A quickdraw has a ‘rope end’ and a ‘bolt end’,
with a carabiner for each. Ensure you know
which end of your quickdraws is for the rope
and the bolt, and always stick to this. Often
quickdraws have a bent gate for the rope end
(which aids clipping of the rope).
Contact between the metal bolthanger and the
carabiner can cause burrs in the carabiner
surface, which, if the quickdraw is attached the
wrong way round, can damage the rope.

Keep a look out for projecting rock features,

which are likely to cause rope-drag or worse
still, for the gate of the carabiner to snag and for Back Clipping May Cause The Quickdraw To Flip And Unclip
it to be loaded when open in the event of a fall.
Available at
If in doubt, simply use a longer or shorter
quickdraw to solve the problem..

Finally, after clipping and as you move through,

double check the direction that the rope will be
travelling through the carabiner and that the
quickdraw is hanging correctly on the bolt.

Find more technical advice and videos

on climbing at petzl.com
the climbeR’s coach
6 Richard Hubbard climbing
the second pitch of the classic
Crackstone Rib (S 4a), Carreg
Wastad, Llanberiss Pass.
A great route and perfect
for getting in some mileage.
Photo: David Simmonite
Opposite page: A perfect
spring day. Tim Henson high
on the classic Direct Route
(VD) on Milestone Buttress in
the Ogwen Valley. Just the
kind of route for getting
some early season mileage
under your belt to shake
away the cobwebs. Photo:
David Simmonite.
66 may–jun 2021
BEING KIND
TO YOURSELF
God knows what’s happening right
now. I wrote this in late January in
the midst of a winter of discontent,
with what was the latest brutal
lockdown and endless rain, making
even daily outdoor exercise from the
home about as desirable as a dodgy
RP micro-wire to protect a long run-
out with deck-out potential. With over
a year now of on and off climbing,
what I am suggesting this issue is
even if we can go outside then we
need to be kind to ourselves.
The reason for this is skill fade. What
I mean is that if we have not been able
to climb as regularly as we once had
then all of those skills become rusty
and disjointed. So, when it comes to
www.climber.co.uk
by mark Reeves
actually climbing then our relative ability
will have dropped, so whatever grade
you think you might be climbing is
likely to be an over estimate.
Whilst you may be able to jump
on a sport route near your grade limit
with few consequences, other than
failure, of course. However, when it
comes to trad climbing, we have to
remember that everything from finding
resting places, to looking for gear and
even the act of placing gear, will be
something of a forgotten art for the
first few routes or days. As such it
is more important than ever to wind
your neck in and try to enjoy some
easy mileage to ease yourself back
into your trad game.
However, the fact you have lost
some of those skills through enforced
neglect, means that more than
ever, now is the time to focus on
the basics and re-train those funda-
mental climbing skills. The reason
being is that you are now, more than
ever, a blank slate, so rather than
trying to alter old techniques and
behaviours it is the perfect time to
start on perfection, without having
the baggage of previous poor
technique.
“Practise does not make
perfect, only perfect
practise makes perfect”
THE JOYS OF EASY MILEAGE
There are several reasons that easy
mileage is a great way to help start that
perfect practise. Firstly, because the
climbing is ‘easy’ relative to your ability
then you should feel like you have time
to think more consciously about focusing
on technique and gear placements without
the added distraction of rising levels of
pump and fear that can catastrophically
affect your climbing ability.
Easy climbing also means that you
should be able to get a few pitches of
climbing done, the more you climb the
more you help to start to ingrain those
better techniques and tactics. This is key
as it takes a fair amount of replication
and repetition of good technique and
tactics in order to form strong neurologi-
cal and psychological pathways. Experts
suggest somewhere in the region of 150
repetitions of a simple movement just to
get it imbedded in our brain.
So, whilst somewhere like gritstone
might be a good place, as you can climb
easy multiple shorter routes in a day.
I personally prefer medium-sized multi-
pitch routes as it often allows you to lead
a pitch and second the next, if alternating
leads. This way you can focus on some
easier-to-control skills whilst leading,
then push the technique drills a little
more when seconding. The journey type
nature of multi-pitch routes for me can
help make the whole experience a bit
more of an adventure. 6
BEING KIND TO YOURSELF

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 67

the climbeR’S cOach
WHAT TO FOCUS ON
There are many things that we can focus
on but in terms of setting yourself up to
become more efficient at movement,
finding rests and placing gear, focusing
on just one or two things from this list
on each pitch is a good way to prevent
yourself overthinking and becoming
overloaded.
1. Focus on footwork and body
position
Look at using the inside and outside
edges of your rock shoe, this forces
you to be more side-on to the cliff
which, in turn, will help movement
efficiency. Other footwork technique
improvers are to make foot place-
ments silent or just slow everything
down so your footwork is much more
accurate. That side-on technique
can be increased by trying to get
your hip of the inside leg bumping
into the cliff, as this means not only
are your feet sideways but your torso
as well.
2. Finding rests on the go
By breaking the route down as
you climb, you will work on your
efficiency, with the idea you place
the protection gear at rests. I teach
this through getting clients to
answer two questions before they
leave a restful position: “Where are
you going to stand in balance next
and where is the next gear?” Don’t
move until you have answered these
and are happy that you can get
there. One client distilled this to
one word, ‘anticipate’, in that if we
plan ahead we can avoid climbing
ourselves into a bad place because
we are anticipating consequences
on the move.
3. measure twice and cut
once placement
This old carpenter adage is so
applicable to trad climbing. I see
so many people simply just start
to throw wires or cams at a crack
without really looking at it and five
minutes later come out with an okay
runner. The reality to being more
efficient at placing gear is you have
a really good look at the crack and
sometimes have a feel about to find
the best constriction. Only when you
have decided exactly where in a
crack you are going to place gear
is it time to start sizing it up. Then,
and only then, choose the gear from
your rack. So, look and feel twice
68 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk
then place once. The hope is that Mark Reeves enjoying some easy
with a little longer in the planning mileage on the Lakeland classic, Corvus
phase, you will eventually execute (D) on Raven Crag in Borrowdale. A route
much quicker placement times where taking it easy doesn’t have to
because you manage those ‘first mean there’s no adventure to be had.
time’ placements. Photo: Mark Reeves Collection
4. One or no-handed rock-climbing
This is one of the higher risk ways to
improve your footwork and balance.
However, it is best to practise this when
seconding a route at first, that way
you should be safer. Both techniques
lend themselves to slabbier terrain,
but if you are only using one or no
hands it forces you to be in balance
and have good footwork, as without
it the task is impossible.
5. Solid and efficient belays
There are so many ways to make a
belay solid and efficient in use. There
is no real secret way, just knowing the
systems you use inside out and using
them regularly. The key here is to focus
on part of the process of making a
belay which could be those first-time
gear placements. It might be building
a belay with a sling, the rope or a
cordelette. Or it could even be the
process of arriving at a belay ledge
where you have to make the decision
of what your belay is going to be
based on the endless permutations
of placement position, ledge size,
direction the climber approaches
the belay from seconding etc…
by bReaking the
ROute dOwn aS
yOu climb, yOu
will wORk On
yOuR eFFiciency
6. Recomposing yourself
Even on easy routes there are likely to SUMMARY
be a couple of places where you are There are, of course, many more
faced with a more challenging move, parts of your climbing performance
which might switch you from cruise you can focus on, the key is that
mode to battle climbing. If you find these fundamentals are the founda-
yourself there really focus on finding a tion of climbing performance. So
restful position to stop and recompose rather than focus on finer, much
yourself. I like to use a large exhalation higher level skills, which may well
of breath whilst letting my shoulders be built up on a variable house of
drop and relax. Followed by a few climbing performance cards. We
deep and slow breaths to slow myself instead start at the base of the tree
back down again. and work our way up.

You might even find after a day
or two of easy mileage you have
reconnected the parts of the brain
that deal with movement and tactics
meaning you are rapidly back where
you were. The reason for this is any
skill you have is effectively stored in a
filing system and if you don’t use it then
the file gets moved further and further
back until it gets old, forgotten and
dusty. As such reaching back into the
depths of the filing system and giving
some of these basics skills a dust off
is one of the key parts of any climbing
year for me and not just this year.
That personally is the joy of easy
mileage, it allows you to re-up the skills
that have been partially forgotten over
winter and bring them back up to speed
and at the same time enjoying some of
those amazing classic routes. n
BEING KIND TO YOURSELF
mark Reeves is a Mountaineering
Instructor with a Master’s Degree in
Applied Sports Science; he has a first-rate
understanding of effective coaching, sport
psychology and performance physiology.
He applies this to this column and
coaching climbers and mountaineers
through howtoclimbharder.com and
snowdoniamountainguides.com
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 69
RevieWS
South Wales Rock Climbers’ Club and South Wales Climbing Wiki (SWCW) £29.95
The brand-new South Wales Rock guide-
book landed on my doormat over Christ-
mas. As we are currently in another Covid
lockdown, I thought I would put my time
to good use and try to give it a thorough
read and review.
The previous comprehensive South Wales
SWMC (2003) guide covered the whole of
South Wales with the obvious exception of
Pembroke and Wye Valley. This included
not only the many sandstone quarries of the
South East Wales valleys, but also inland
and coastal limestone and the beautiful area
that is Gower. However, the guide quickly
felt dated as it was published just prior to the
revolution in digital photography and printing
that enabled a sea change in how climbing
guides looked. There followed a long period
of time where the locals kept track of new
crags and routes on an extensive Wiki data-
base developed by Al Rosier and Tim Hoddy
and many of us could be seen walking along
crag bases with handfuls of A4 printouts. In
the intervening years from the last SWMC
guide, other publishers have taken the oppor-
tunity to develop guides to this area.
Gower was the first to be split off when
Stuart Llewellyn and Matt Woodfield published
the Gower Rock selected guide in 2012. Whilst
covering all styles it mainly documented
the huge sport climbing revolution that had
taken place to pepper the excellent compact
limestone walls. This has recently been
republished with even more great routes.
In 2016 Rockfax published South Wales Sport
Climbs. This was a selected sport climbing
guide covering an area stretching across
the south, around Gower and as far west as
the newly developed crags near Camarthen
and again led the way in high class photo
style guides.
So, to the new guide… The area cov-
ered in this new guide now compliments
rather than includes Gower. The volume of
development in South East Wales has been
enormous. Even in the relatively short period
since 2016 significant new crags have been
found and existing crags re developed. The
discovery of the natural gritstone-esque
outcrop of Cilfrew was a superb find and has
provided over 100 trad routes on solid rock
with strong, mainly well-protected, lines.
Temple Bay inlets provide a plethora of lower
grade coastal sport routes. Pen Pych gives
steep sport routes tucked in the Rhondda’s
upland forests and there are plenty more that
I don’t have space to praise here. I’m aware
of at least one more brand new ‘Valleys Su-
percrag’ that just missed the print deadline.
Check the Wiki soon for Space Mountain.
The variation in climbing styles covered
by the guide is huge, from well-protected
V Diffs or easy sport routes on new sandstone
70 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk
quarries, though to powerful sport lines in the
F8s and the adventurous Extremes found on
Ogmore. For one guide to cover the whole of
South Wales now would require a mighty
tome. This guide manages this task in a novel
way, it is neither a select guide nor compre-
hensive in the traditional sense. The guide is
a combination of the printed guide in your
hand and a huge online database which cover
all of the best that the area has to offer. The
best crags and the best routes within those
crags are included in print. For those wanting
to discover the less well-travelled routes at
a particular crag, there is a QR code, which
links directly to the Wiki (SWCW.org.uk) data-
base, which also contains many crags in the
more esoteric vein. I believe that this gives
the best of both worlds and stops the printed
guide becoming too unwieldy or expensive
whilst still comprehensively documenting
every climbable bit of South Wales Rock.
The choice of what to include and what
to leave out of the paper version is always
a difficult one. I feel that in the main the
authors have captured this well, but ,the
exclusion of such a large crag as Llanbradach
in the main guide seems an unusual choice
when other much lesser venues such as New
Tredegar, a crag almost without a single star,
are included.
The guide begins with a very brief history
that gives a taste of the efforts put in by the
route developers but seems to concentrate
detail on the older developments of previous
eras and I personally would have liked to
have seen more written of new crag develop-
ments in the last 10 to 15 years and the more
recent key players credited. An incredible
amount of work has been put in by the likes
of Gary Gibson and Roy Thomas, Al Rosier,
Robin McAllistair, Andy Sharp, Martyn Rich-
ards, Will Calvert, Simon Rawlinson, Paul
Bowen, Paul Tucker, Pete Blackburn, Dai
Emanuel, Goi Ashmore and many others and
they should be given the credit they deserve.
The following section after the history is
a lovely explanation of the area’s complex
geology which amongst other things explains
why all the crimps at Dinas Rock seem to slope
and why we get such lovely positive pockets
on the local sandstone. A very useful double
page tabular guide to all the crags provides
an easy to access overview of crag location,
aspect, climbing style and grade range. The
size of this means you might need a ruler to
follow all the info though. The mention of
options for deep water soloing seem to be
missed, they are, however, pretty rare.
On locating routes, this guide really does
do a great job at getting you to the crags.
This may sound odd in the days of sat navs,
but some of the valleys’ quarries really do
take some finding. Simple clear maps, GPS
and post code info, followed up by nice
sketch maps for the walk -ins, do everything
the writers could do other than chauffeur
you there.
All the described routes are accompanied by
an extensive series of very good photo topos.
The ones for Taff’s Well and Mount Pleasant,
in particular, bring clarity to complicated crags
that were previously difficult to navigate. The
Ogmore topos really open up this excellent
venue and will ease the tricky route finding.
The topo print quality can sometimes tend
towards being grainy (page 285 vs 287) but
won’t affect your route finding.
Photos of climbers in action litter the
book, from thumbnails to full spreads. These
serve to give a real feel for the quality and
variation of superb venues this book covers.
Print quality again is a little variable but
doesn’t detract. My particular favourites are
Rob Lamey, high above the sea soloing Davey
Jone’s Locker (F7b+) and the other showing
Al Rosier sucking up the pain as he fist jams
up one of his new HVS routes at the fantastic
Cilfrew.
Niggles are minor and very few and far
between. On the whole the proof reading has
been excellent, with very few typos evident.
As with all other previous guides the use of
the rock piles used to access starting holds
on some routes at Dinas Rock is omitted – a
visiting climber will be baffled without local
knowledge. I’m sure these will be corrected
when the next reprint is done and I don’t
think that will be long coming as this superb
guide should fly from the shelves.
Overall, this is an excellent piece of work
which really showcases all that South Wales
has to offer. I hope it will show the area to
be well worth a visit from afar as well as
documenting a lifetime’s climbing for locals.
It’s even put a bit of fire back into me…
I thought I’d done all the good stuff, how
wrong I was. I just needed this book to
show the way.
Bill Gregory

Boulder Britain (2nd Edition) Ape Index £35
Amazingly it’s all but a decade since the
first edition of Boulder Britain rolled off the
printing press. Written by Niall Grimes,
a.k.a. Grimer, Boulder Britain was a
revelation; a single bouldering guide to the
whole of Britain. What was not to like?
Climbers countrywide couldn’t resist its
charms, so much so that the original print
run, then a reprint and a second reprint all
sold out. Like a moth drawn to a light, in
all consciousness Grimer had to undertake
a second edition. In time, he duly rolled up
his sleeves and knuckled down to the job
and here it is.
One of the obvious appeals of Boulder
Britain is that there is a lifetime of bouldering
in just a single guide. Off on a trip some-
where? Anywhere? No sweat, Boulder Britain
will be along for the ride for in many
instances. Why not, no matter where you
wash up, Boulder Britain will have your back.
Keeping pace with the huge growth in
bouldering over recent years the second
edition now has 200 venues, up from 180,
and 4,000 problems, up from 3,200.
Unsurprisingly the page count is up too, from
444 to 528. And yet by some miracle the
second edition remains the same size and
girth as the first; what sorcery is this you
might ask? Is it a classic Grimer trick or else
smoke and mirrors or perhaps a bit of paper
technology? Truth be told, it’s something of
an irrelevance how, the plain fact is that
there’s more action-packed fun days between
the covers and that is really all that need
concern us.
Talking of covers, what an excellent place
to dig in. Leaving aside a shift to an emerald
green tint from the original blue, I’m pleased
to say that Dan Arkle’s excellent Photoshop
shenanigans have been retained; if it isn’t
broke then don’t fix it – right? The action
shots within the guide have had a shake-up
though. There was absolutely nothing amiss
with the old action shots but it’s a delight
that the bulk of the action shots in the
second edition are new.
Adopting the role of anal reviewer, I got to
Combeshead Tor in the South West section
(page 68) before I spotted the first ‘old’ action
shot. Continuing in said role, I then got to
The Agglestone (page 86) before spotting a
further repeat. By the time I’d reached page
100 I’d seen a few more repeats and I got
bored of turning simul pages in two editions
so I stopped. The conclusion being that the
majority of shots are new. Not just new
either, all are inspiring and the stand-outs
have a whiff of ‘other worldliness’ as they
have a feel they were taken in some faraway
blocfest spot halfway around the world.
Taking Tintagel North for instance – Ned
Feehally’s shot of Shauna Coxsey cranking
hard on Merlin’s Beard (Font 8b) is a cracker
and Shauna’s subsequent shot of Ned on a
different section of the same problem on the
next page returns the favour.
The cracking photographs continue
and they aren’t all of hard problems either.
The shot of Aeron Thomas on Gap of Rohan
(Font 6c) at Rhiw Goch by Phillip Mitchell
is another inspiring image of what looks an
ace unlikely-at-the-grade problem. If you’re
getting the picture that the action shots are
‘up there’ then good. I’ll wrap this up and
say the bulk of the action shots aren’t from
professional photographers either; it seems
that phone cameras, amongst others, have
been well and truly harvested by Grimer,
kudos to all.
So, to the text. In any guidebook, space
is limited, in Boulder Britain – as in any
selected guide – space is at a serious
premium and whilst the author needs to
make every word count it’s the little asides
and jovial comments which make all the
difference. Grimer, of course, is a master of
this, his crag introductions are, despite their
brevity, very often little short of magnificent.
A would be stand-up, Grimer lets rip and
it’s good entertainment. Thereafter, crag
approaches are functional, supporting maps
good and the problem descriptions minimal.
Yes, it’s formulaic but in such a guide that
can’t be avoided.
New crags then – which and where?
Running broadly with the order of the guide
the big addition to the South West is Biblins.
Wales gets several new crags and chief
amongst the additions being Mallory Boulder,
Crafnant and Rhiw Goch. The Lakes likewise
gets several new crags including Lad Stones
and Christianbury. Lad Stones is now famous
amongst the cognoscenti following Aidan
Roberts’s ascent of Superpower weighing-in
at Font 8c; it’s now reckoned to be the
hardest bloc (of its kind) in the UK. Grimer
openly admits that because of this he had to
add Lad Stones to the list. Christianbury has
been written up for the guide by Dan Varian
so, as well as a seriously long approach,
grades could well be stout.
Three areas which come up short for new
additions are the North West and Northum-
berland as well as the South East. Not so,
however, with Yorkshire and the Peak which
between them have a total of 10 new crags
between them. Barry the Boulder at the
North York Moors gem, Stoupe Brow, must
surely satisfy the need for any boulderer that
wants to go big – MYXOMOP sounds okay
at Font 7c but it also has an E9 highball tag
with it. Kilnsey, famous for its amazing routes,
is now equally famous for its stunning
bouldering which has now matured giving
an excellent, hard venue for the pad-people.
BOOK REVIEWS
Amongst Yorkshire’s other additions, venues
such as Park Nab and Scugdale offer a much
more balanced collection of boulders, plus
some cracking scenery too.
That brings us to the Peak and the
additions therein. Like the Lad Stones,
Yarncliffe has been added since Ned Feehally
created The Boss (Font 8b+). Said to be the
hardest thing on grit it’s a good bet to be stiff
at the grade. The rest of the Peak’s additions
are all on the limestone: Blackwell Dale, Lees
Bottom and The P – collectively they account
for over 60 new problems across the full
grade range and understandably all are
popular – if perhaps a little esoteric. Finally,
for the Midlands, Anston Stones is another
major and popular addition.
Heading north to Scotland and, if there is
a criticism of the guide, it’s that the coverage
there is on the light side. Granted that for the
vast majority of Boulder Britain’s fan-base
Scotland is a faraway land. With some
justification, therefore, the Scottish bloc
venues have been bolstered for the second
edition. That said, the problems at the
Scottish venues aren’t described in the same
way as they are in the rest of Boulder Britain
and readers have to make do with general
notes on the character of the venues and
approaches alone.
Whilst the addition of more venues is a
bonus, this still isn’t good enough for me.
Yes, there is a perfectly good bouldering
guide to Scotland, as Grimer says, but it
either needs to be in the guide or not and if
it’s in then it needs to be better. To his credit
Grimer admits that he hasn’t been to Scotland.
On behalf of boulderers everywhere I’d make
a strong plea that this is addressed for the
third edition. In summary then, and Scotland
excepted, a thoroughly excellent guide and
a worthy second edition well worth buying
even by those that were lucky enough to
have a copy of the first edition.
Keith Sharples
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 71
reviews
i’m Alan Hubbard, who are you?
Who is Alan Hubbard? Well, I’m privileged
to call him my friend, also someone I have
the utmost respect for, to coin one of his
phrases... kindred spirits. As this is a
review for his book I will try to be as
impartial as possible. The book is the story
of an octogenarian who is a lifelong
climber and the politics which shaped his
and every one of our lives. Not being the
retiring type, this book is unapologetic in
its sentiments. It is forthright and honest,
attributes the author has in abundance.
The journey starts in the smog-ridden
industrial streets of Salford during the Second
World War. Having lost his father to cancer
before reaching the age of two, Alan and his
two elder brothers were brought up by his
mother in relative poverty. We are then taken
on a journey through derelict post-war Salford
and the playgrounds that youth can find in such
chaos. Like myself, Alan started his working
life in engineering but, after finding climbing,
through a youth club work is a distraction to
the lures of moors and mountains. The folly
of youth, the mistakes made and the voyage
to adulthood are all depicted against the
backdrop of a gloomy city and the escapes to
the beautiful places that climbing takes you to.
Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage by Hermann Buhl Vertebrate Publishing £9.99
‘It was the kind of passion which knows
no frontiers, no constant, attainable end.’
HERMANN BUHL
Hermann Buhl was born in Innsbruck in
1924. He was a weak child but even at an
early age he dreamt of the mountains and
felt that the hills spoke a ‘special language’
to him. He explored the local landscapes
with his father and climbed Austria’s
greatest mountains. Climbing became an
obsession that Hermann found difficult to
control. He enjoyed early carefree years of
remarkable climbing with good companions.
Hermann travelled to Italy and France
to explore and to follow in the footsteps of
climbing giants who he had read about and
who inspired him. Hermann climbed in the
Alps at a time when numerous immense
routes had been established and offered
irresistible opportunities to repeat, to climb
faster, to ascend solo and to climb during
winter. Hermann was like a child in a sweet
shop. He barely knew which way to turn to
find new challenges. An enormous climbing
world lay at his feet.
During the late 1940s and early 1950s
Hermann completed many impressive
ascents in the Alps. His climbs included the
South Buttress of the Marmolada, the first
72 mAy–juN 2021 www.climber.co.uk
Independent Publishing Network £15.95
We are then taken on a journey through
decades when, like most climbers, he was
working to fund the next adventure, be it
the Highlands of Scotland, the sea cliffs of
Cornwall, the Alps and beyond. The big
difference with this book is the philosophies
that are underlying the whole of the narrative.
Alan has a love of nature and of fairness and
the often harsh reality of the politics that shape
our lives are in juxtaposition with this. So, if
you’re after a read purely in the interests of
climbing, this is not for you. If you want to
read something with substance and meaning
it is without doubt worth a read. If you cross Jenny and all his friends and a contrast in
Perrin’s The Villain with Gibran’s The Prophet, trying to understand the cruelty that political
you are somewhere near. decisions can make to normal people. It is
The contrast in the chapters keep you a true autobiography of a fascinating life.
constantly interested. Chapter 7 explores the This has been a labour of love for Alan over
wild sea cliffs of Cornwall and the ensuing the last few years and this is clear in the
adventures. Chapter 14, Dogs, is about the love quality of writing.
you have for these amazing companions that All profits from this book are being
enrich your life for a brief time and Chapter 19 distributed to various charities including
is an impassioned rant on the state of politics Amnesty International and Médecins Sans
now. This chapter is absolutely unapologetic, Frontières. To obtain this book email
chillingly accurate and will be uncomfortable jenniferhubbard761@btinternet.com. Total
to anyone on the wrong side of politics. cost including postage and packing is £20.
The book has a beauty in the depiction of
our natural world and the love for his wife Stuart Wood
solo ascent of the South East Face of the
Fleischbank, the first winter ascent of the
West Wall of the Mauk, the first winter ascent
of the South West Wall of the Marmolada,
the first complete traverse of the Chamonix
Aiguilles and an early ascent of the North
Face of the Eiger.
In 1953, Hermann was invited to join
an expedition to the Himalaya to make an
attempt on Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest
mountain in the world, the ‘mountain of
terror’. At that time only two 8,000m peaks
had been climbed and climbing at high
altitude was a new challenge to most
mountaineers. Hermann completed an
extraordinary ascent to write his name little interest in the easy and ordinary. He
into the history of mountaineering. thrived on the edge of what was possible
Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage is a very long and danger was often part of the exhilaration
and challenging read but it is extremely of the climb.
rewarding. The narrative successfully carries The text showers the reader with
the reader to amazing landscapes to share Hermann’s remarkable passion for the
in Hermann’s excitement, frustration, pain mountains: the struggles; the route finding
and success. The chapters are short and and the joy of what could be achieved.
tell complete stories. Each chapter is an The book was an inspiration to many who
adventure written in great technical detail followed. Al Parker in Alpha Males and
ending with reflective thoughts of what had Richard McHardy in Echoes of a Dream both
been achieved and what had been learnt. remember Saturday evenings in the late
The reader shares how Hermann revelled 1950s in a cave on Stanage after the pub
in the exhaustion of success. So many when Alpha Club members would snuggle
ascents develop into epics. Hermann had in sleeping bags while a chapter from the

book would be read aloud to all. They were
‘gripped’ and always eager for the next
adventure. The Alpha Club climbers could
barely wait to travel to the Alps to climb
the stunning faces and walls that Hermann
described. They held a wonder and fascina-
tion that was impossible to resist.
Hermann Buhl loved the mountains.
There was always another climb. ‘Many
Morocco Rock – The Anti-Atlas
Pulling together a high-quality, modern
guidebook is really hard. Bear in mind
that producing a UK guidebook leverages
a century of previous generations’ docu-
mentation. So, imagine how much trickier
documenting climbing in the Anti-Atlas is
for the South Wales Crack Addicts team of
Emma Alsford, Paul Donnithorne and Don
Sargeant. Questions that authors must
answer are much harder to handle. It can
be a quick trip out for a local team to fix
most queries, whereas checking a remote
Moroccan cliff involves a five-hour flight
before even putting approach shoes on. In
this regard, we have to applaud any guide-
book to this world class venue. Production
difficulties accepted, this review shares
my point of view of what to expect from
the new edition of Morocco Rock – The
Anti-Atlas.
I first visited Morocco in 2010 and the only
guide was Claude Davies’s 2004 adventurous
old-style book; it left most detail out attempt-
ing to preserve the adventure. Guidebooks to
the area have evolved and Morocco has
changed too. In 2010 I felt besieged by street
sellers, “Would you like a carpet?” (An aside,
if it’s of interest, is that I do recommend a
peek at the carpets.) Nowadays things have
grown up, Tafraout is a pleasant calm place.
Infrastructure development also goes on at
a pace. The Samazar road has changed from
a 4x4 adventure to what the Crack Addicts
describe as a ‘highway’. A highway it isn’t,
but it is recognisable as a road.
This review considers three questions.
Does this book do a good job guiding climbing
the Anti-Atlas? Should you buy it (assuming
you’re going to Morocco)? Should you climb
in Morocco?
To answer the first crucial question let’s
look at these features:
Style – Morocco Rock follows a tried
and tested design formula: coloured-coded
grading; crag-comparison table; quality,
easily read mapping; photo-diagrams
throughout; amazing photography etc.
Regular guidebook users are familiar with
this formula, making Morocco Rock easy
to pick up which is especially useful in
such a foreign location.
of my wishes were fulfilled, yet, each time,
fulfilment gave birth to another wish’.
Hermann describes the mountains as ‘…
the law of my life’. Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
follows Hermann’s climbing life, his long
and exhausting journey, his determined
path to a time when he climbed to stand
on the summit of one of the greatest
mountains in the world. The book has an
Crack Addicts £39.50
Size – a mighty tome, 480 A5 pages
weighing 790g. You’ll need to manage this
on must-do routes that make the Anti-Atlas
so good. Take photos, cut pages out, whatever
solution you choose I’m confident that most
won’t want to carry it up a 500m route.
Photography – I may be mesmerized,
but honestly, there isn’t a poor photo in the
book. The images do their job, they inform
and inspire.
Non-climbing options – highlighting
non-climbing activities such as exploring a
souk (market), is covered well. An interest-
ing feature being the inclusion of 10 walks.
Possibly rest day activities for some or full-on
adventures for others.
Crack Addicts have also published a
companion booklet, 15 Walks in the Anti-Atlas,
and a fold-out map, Map of the Jebel el Kest.
I haven’t seen these companions, but the
maps in this guidebook are marvellous,
so I don’t imagine either are required for
a climbing trip. But maybe consider them
for non-climbers. Take a peek at www.
moroccorock.com
Coverage – the coverage is massive, both
north and south sides of the Jebel el Kest;
more than enough for any keen team. Another
element is the inclusion of Tafraout granite.
A fun area to visit, perhaps on a break from
the mountains if only to see the surreal
painted boulders. There’s even some bolt-
protected climbing thereabouts. Maybe not
worth the journey to Morocco, but if variety
is the spice of life, and Morocco’s a country
full of spice, you’ll enjoy some time there.
Mapping – finding your way around is
a fundamental of any guidebook and the
mapping quality is faultless. The authors
have included Google mapping QR codes
to car parking locations. Magic technology
– scan the code with your smart-phone, tap
the ‘navigate’ button and an appropriate drive
later you arrive having skipped arguments
about how to get there. The codes are hidden
near the rear of the book. I’d rather them be
on the pages they relate to and one could use
this book for an entire trip and not realise
they’re there. Also, the co-ordinates aren’t
printed, meaning those with old-school
devices can’t manually enter them.
BOOK REVIEWS
important story to share of a significant
time in mountaineering history and of a
fine mountaineer who could not wait for
the next climbing day to arrive to venture
to vast, intriguing unknowns where he
felt that life was good and that exciting
challenges awaited.
Noel Dawson
Accuracy – my method of checking
accuracy is simple, I’ve re-lived adventures by
re-reading routes I’ve done. Happily, they’re
exactly as remembered. One cautionary word,
Paul and Emma’s grading can be low. Maybe
their intimacy with the area built up over
years makes it so. Whatever, my recommen-
dation is read carefully. For example,
‘Firesword E1… high in the grade’ is E2 in
other books. Remember, have some ability
in hand because there’s little help available
and it’s a long time coming if needed.
To summarise the first question. This book
is clear: style, maps, diagrams, images and
descriptions combine in this attractive
colourful book doing an excellent job guiding
any visitor.
Question 2 – should you buy it? Yes, if
you’re considering a trip, get a copy. It’s the
easiest thing to recommend this book, it does a
fantastic job getting you to crags and indicating
what to do once you get there. A less easily
measured but massively important attribute
is ability to inspire. In this regard Morocco
Rock is exemplary. There’s some intangible
ingredient in books that inspire and it’s a
great joy that this guidebook has a je ne sais
quoi that puts it ahead of its competition.
Question 3 – should you climb in
Morocco? The easiest question, yes. Climbing
in the Anti-Atlas is a fabulous adventure and
this book is an amazing tool helping make
dreams of enjoying warm sunny quartzite
a reality.
Peter Sterling
www.climber.co.uk MAy–jun 2021 73
Gear review
BASE LAYERS 2021
When I was asked to write a base layer review enthusiasm
was not that high. So, having looked in my base layer drawer
where the average age was at least eight years with some
older pieces in there too, maybe it was time to have a look at
what’s happening in the market.
Like socks, base layers are often overlooked as an essential
part of any clothing system. In my life as a Guide I see a lot of
different kit in action on different body types and one common
denominator is that most blisters can be attributed to poor
(cheap) socks. Whilst a poor base layer may not have the same
painful effect on you as bleeding feet, it can make a significant
difference to how warm and comfortable you are.
A base layer is designed to fulfil a number of roles, it is worn
against the skin, thus is the first line in insulation within your
layering system, it then wicks moisture away from the skin, the
moisture is then dissipated through your other clothing layers.
This wicking effect is what stops you feeling cold as soon as you
stop exercising by moving sweat and moisture away from the skin.
The right fabric and design can help with temperature regulation.
Base layers come in a variety of weights, as we are heading
into the summer season at the time of writing we will focus on
BASE LAYER FABRICS
The first choice when looking at a base layer is what it is made of,
there are two main choices, Merino wool or synthetic fabric – there
are also now a number of hybrid fabrics on the market.
merino wool
Merino wool comes from a specific breed of sheep, the wool is
extremely fine and generally very comfortable. Merino is superb at
temperature regulation, breathable, wicks very effectively and, in my
opinion, its finest quality is it doesn’t smell. If you are just wearing
a base layer for a day this isn’t such a problem or if it is really cold
when you don’t sweat much but if you are going to wear a base layer
for multiple days, then having a non-smelling base layer is a big plus.
I remember the first time I wore a Merino base layer was on an
eight-day ski tour in the Tatras. It was an all-in test as I didn’t take
a spare but had a cotton T-shirt to wear in the evenings. At the end
of the day, I just hung it out to air overnight then on it went in the
morning, this one trip had me converted.
One of the other considerations when choosing Merino is its
sustainability – wool comes from shearing sheep, sheep eat grass.
There are, of course, environmental considerations attached to
transport, dyes, etc but the wool is a renewable resource unlike
synthetic fibres which are made from oil. In addition, wool stays
warmer when wet than a synthetic equivalent.
It is not all good news with Merino there are a few down sides
– it is generally less durable than synthetic fabric, it takes longer to
dry, is heavier, more expensive, some people find it itchy and it can
need some care when washing it.
Synthetic
Synthetic base layers, as the name implies are made from oil (like
many materials in the outdoor industry), so with base layers you
are in an unusual position of actually being able to choose between
two garments that effectively do the same job but have potentially
different environmental considerations.
74 may–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk
by Bruce Goodlad
thinner layers, but it is worth considering the arguments for
and against thicker base layers. My personal view is that I would
prefer to use multiple thin layers rather than one thick layer, the
reason is that it’s more flexible. If you only have one thick layer,
it is impossible to reduce your insulation if it turns out warmer
than you thought. A thick layer does not dry as quickly, either
on your skin or if washed on a trip. Multiple thin layers also
means that you won’t end up with more clothing that is very
seasonally specific.
I’m sure there are readers who’s first base layer was a Helly
Hansen Lifa top, blue with white stripes on the arms, usually
paired with Ron Hill Tracksters. In the Alps a face smeared in
white sun block finished off the ensemble, the wearer was often
then surprised when suavely dressed Europeans knew they
hailed from the UK.
When coming down to choosing a base layer there are a few
considerations – one of the key things for me is fit, the general
wisdom seems to be that a snug fit promotes wicking which I am
sure is correct but personally I don’t like tight fitting garments.
When choosing a garment its worth considering this if you don’t
have the chance to try it on before you buy.
It’s not all bad when it comes to choosing synthetic, they are cheaper,
they are harder wearing, they dry more quickly, they are generally lighter
weight and generally absorb less water. On the flip side they smell.
I don’t care how or what magic treatment manufacturers have come
up with to make them not smell, it doesn’t work. We have extensively
tested every garment in this review and all the synthetics smell
second day on, not as bad as an old Lifa top mind but they do smell.
I wouldn’t write them off though, I once spent three months
guiding on the Vinson Massif in Antarctica, the temperature seldom
got above -20C and I had two synthetic base layers for the whole trip.
Every couple of days I would just rinse one in a pan of warm water
then let it freeze dry outside, give it a good shake to remove the ice
crystals then finish the drying off in the tent. The quick drying nature
of the material meant this worked really well and being so cold, smell
wasn’t much of an issue. I did throw them straight in the bin when I
got back to South America.
Blended Fabrics
As the name suggests these are a blend of Merino wool and a synthetic
fibre, the idea is to give the quick drying and hard-wearing nature of
synthetic with the low smell of Merino. In my experience this actually
works really well and we have a few to discuss in the review.
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
The final considerations are design – if you planning to use the base
layer for summer cragging in the mountains then a T-shirt style makes
a lot of sense, you can wear a long sleeve base layer on top if it is a bit
colder and this gives a really nice system. I often use this for spring ski
touring as well.
Cut in relation to your body shape is really important for comfort
and a zip neck is really nice for temperature regulation and a collar
will help keep the sun off and can help stop a rope chaffing if carrying
coils. If you are heading for the Alps this summer then a long sleeve
will keep the sun off your arms plus a light colour will help you keep
cool in the Alpine sun.
 gear review – base layers 2021

La Sportiva Planet Long Sleeve Montane Primino Hybrid Alpine Hoodie

REVIEW
La Sportiva Planet Long Sleeve RRP: £75
It’s great to start with a good environmental story, the La Sportiva Planet
synthetic base layer is manufactured from 90% recycled polyester and this
is recycled from plastic bottles. In my view the more the outdoor industry
can get involved in this type of technology the better. The top features a
zip at the front for easy on-and-off and temperature regulation. I really like
the Planet, it feels cool next to the skin and wicks moisture incredibly well.
Its Polygiene anti-odour coating is no better than anyone else’s. The size
I chose had a relaxed feel that I really enjoyed so definitely worth a look.
The Dash Long Sleeve is the women’s version of this.

Montane Primino Hybrid alpine Hoodie RRP: £80

When I took the Primino out of the packet for some reason I didn’t
immediately take to it. Maybe it was its thin feel, I’m not sure, but when
I started to use it I fell in love – what an amazing and versatile garment.
Montane have used a mix of Merino wool and a Primaloft yarn to
maximise wicking and drying ability. It really works, lots of sweating
during both ski touring and early season climbing and it’s kept me dry
and comfortable. The design has an offset front zip to avoid chaffing
under the chin and a snug under-helmet hood is great for climbing in
the mountains or even wearing under a hat on cold days. This top is
a great piece from Montane.

Montane Dart Zip T-Shirt RRP: £34

Another base layer using recycled materials, the Apex eco fabric is 100%
recycled and offers a classic synthetic base layer. We tested the Dart Zip
T-Shirt but a long sleeve version (Montane Dart Long Sleeve Zip T-Shirt,
RRP: £38) is also available. I really liked the Dart, the fit is comfortable and
the fabric worked really well wicking moisture away and feeling comfort-
able. Like all the synthetics it will smell after a full day out but you know
that before you start. A really nice top for mountain cragging and the long Montane Dart Zip T-Shirt
sleeve for all-round use at a really great price. Well worth a look and
there’s also options without the zip plus women’s versions too. 6

www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 75

geAR Review

Salewa Zebru Responsive 1/2 Zip Tee Patagonia Long Sleeve Cap Cool
Merino Shirt (Women’s)

Salewa Zebru Responsive 1/2 Zip Tee RRP: £90

A really nice hybrid top from Salewa, with 83% wool and 17% nylon mix
that is woven into a thin comfortable garment. The Zebru has quite a
technical look with body mapping to increase moisture transfer at high
sweat areas, then increased insulation where they felt it is needed.
Salewa have used a circular knitting pattern which means no seams,
so the top is incredibly comfortable and there is a front zip for increased
temperature regulation. The weave is thin so the fabric wicks well
and dries very quickly, I thought the fastest of the garments tested.
We have to discuss Salewa’s responsive yarn – this is ‘loaded’
with ‘a natural mix of thermo reactive minerals’, the idea is that the
minerals absorb infrared radiation then feed it back to the muscles.
Apparently, research has proven that this increases blood flow and
oxygenation to the muscles. This is a pretty big claim. In our test
we went ski touring and climbing and I found the Zebru comfortable
and effective but without a lab I could not say that I felt empowered.
What I would say is that the Zebru comes in a light grey which is
perfect for a warm summer’s day on the glacier; a great top.

Patagonia Long Sleeve Cap Cool Merino Shirt RRP: £75

Many of you will be familiar with Patagonia’s Capilene base layers. They
are pretty much an industry standard and are one of the hardest wearing
base layers you will find. My wife has one that’s at least 10 years old
and just won’t wear it out, though like all synthetics it does smell from
day two onwards. Coming for this summer Patagonia have blended 65%
Merino and 35% recycled polyester to create the Capilene Cool range.
I really liked this top right from the off, even with a crew neck (I prefer
a zip for ventilation but that’s personal preference), it’s really comfort-
able, it wicks fantastically well, it regulated my temperature nicely on
ski tours that started in the cold, climbed through a ‘base layer only’
sweat fest in the sun, then onto a cold windy summit. It will be available Mammut Aegility Half Zip Long Sleeve
in four colours which appeals to my aversion to black in the outdoors.
This is a great addition to the Patagonia range and will make an indis-
pensable part of your outdoor wardrobe – they size a little bit bigger comfortable top that you don’t even notice you are wearing when
than normal for Patagonia though and there’s a women’s version too. climbing. The cut is quite long so stays in your harness or trousers
and a zip keeps you vented when sweating on a steep approach. The
Mammut Aegility Half Zip Long Sleeve RRP: £50 thin fabric dries incredibly quickly and feels very soft and comfortable
This lightweight (150g) super breathable synthetic top from Mammut next to your skin. It also packs incredibly small in your pack if you are
does exactly what it says on the tin. A simple design (the essence of going to carry it as a spare or for layering. I have been testing the
good design) with raglan sleeves so no rubbing under a pack, a slightly Aegility for over a year now and it has become a go-to in my synthetic
articulated arm combined with amazing stretch makes for a really collection.

76 MAy–jun 2021 www.climber.co.uk

 Icebreaker Merino Body Fit Zone 150 Long Sleeve (Women’s) BAM Black Rocks Zip Neck

Icebreaker Merino Body Fit Zone 150 Long Sleeve

RRP: £75 (Crew) £85 (Zip)
Icebreaker started the Merino revolution in outdoor clothing over 20 years
ago and have been developing and refining their products ever since.
They have Merino base layer products at a variety of different weights
– we tested the 150 weight which is spun with Lycra to maximise flexibility
and comfort. The body fit zoning features a more breathable/open weave
fabric across the shoulders and underarms which are high sweat areas.
This really helped to keep these areas dry, which combats Merino’s slower
drying time very effectively. Raglan sleeves and flat stitching avoids any
chaffing and a drop tail keeps everything tucked in. Icebreaker was the
first Merino base layer I used and, in my view, they have stayed ahead
of the rest in terms of design fit and quality.

Smartwool Merino 150 Base Layer Long Sleeve RRP: £75

Smartwool started by making Merino wool socks back in 1994 and I’ve been
using their socks for over 25 years of Alpinism and skiing and they are still my
go-to brand. If you get blisters, buy some of their socks before looking for
new boots but I digress. Their expertise started by making socks and has now
progressed into all types of apparel. We have been testing their 150-weight
base layer, this is their lightest and, in our view, most versatile base layer.
Available as a crew or with a zip, Smartwool use a construction where
the wool fibres are wrapped round a nylon core, this gives enhanced
durability while keeping the comfort and performance of wool next to your
skin. The design is simple with a few nice details like the side seams that
wrap round to the front of the body to enhance the fit, offset shoulders
and flat seams to reduce any possibility of chaffing. I also really liked the
eight different colours available including some which only use plant-
based dyes. Personally, I thought the Icebreaker had the edge in terms of Smartwool Merino 150 Base Layer
breathability and hence comfort but the Smartwool is a great top as well. Long Sleeve (Women’s)

BAM Black Rocks Zip Neck RRP: £49

This will be a bit different for most people, the idea of making fabric and
clothing from bamboo. But before we get to what it’s like to use it’s worth
considering the environmental advantages to using bamboo. It absorbs five
times the carbon of hardwood trees, it takes half the land cotton needs and
it doesn’t need irrigation and grows effectively without pesticides. BAM
offset 100% of its carbon emissions in 2020 and aim to be carbon neutral
by 2030, plus all packaging is compostable.
That all sounds really impressive but only if the garments actually work.
Out of the packet the garments are incredibly soft and comfortable to wear,
so much so they have become one tester’s go-to piece for pretty much
all outdoor activities. The fabric wicks really well and dries incredibly fast
and, like Merino, there is no smell even after a week’s hard graft in the
mountains. We tested the Black Rocks Zip Neck and we were really
impressed – the feel is incredibly soft, and it matched up to all the claims
about performance. The cut is really comfortable with a long body to keep
everything tucked in and will stretch to add total freedom of movement.
There are no seams in the shoulder area for comfort and a zip for venting.
The Velocity is the women’s version and is every bit as good. 6

www.climber.co.uk May–juN 2021 77

gear review

Picture Nangha Top

Kora Shola Top Crew

Kora Shola Top RRP: £106 (Crew) £117 (Zip)

Kora use Yak wool sourced from Tibetan herders’ co-operatives.
The wool weight for warmth is warmer than Merino and is equally
as soft, better wicking but harder wearing plus, like Merino, it
doesn’t smell. We have had some Kora products on long term test
and four years in the testers are using the same garments and
confirmed all these great qualities.
The Shola is the lightest and most versatile of Kora’s base
layers. The cut is excellent but snug so check sizing first. The
comfort and breathability are both excellent but we did find it
a bit warm for summer use, so perfect then for autumn through
to spring. It is the most expensive top in the review but it will
outlast all the other garments featured.

Kora Shola Bottoms RRP: £106

We also tried the leggings, like the top these are awesome
winter leggings suitable for all mountain use under insulation
or a hard shell when climbing or ski touring and perfect for
expeditions. They retain all the positives of the Top.

Picture Nangha Top RRP: £65

Picture is more of a ski than a mountaineering brand but their
kit is superb and you will not find a more environmentally aware
company in the market. I know base layers are not usually seen
as a fashion item, but I liked the Nangha top so much I will be
wearing it climbing this summer in its own right.
This is a brilliant soft and comfortable base layer top. It’s
constructed from recycled polyester (93%) and just works. The
cut is long, so it won’t pull out of your trousers, it’s incredible
stretchy so total freedom of movement, dries quickly and has flat
seams for comfort. There are seams across the shoulders which
I was a bit concerned about as they may rub under a rucksack
but that isn’t an issue so far, but it is winter (when tested), so I
have had other layers on. While not a climbing brand I feel with
their performance and environmental credentials Picture are
well worth checking out.

Picture Lhotse Leggings RRP: £55

Made from 93% recycled polyester these leggings are incredibly
soft and comfortable. They feel like cotton and in action wicked
moisture away and kept me really warm. The low-profile
waistline layers really well and they are so comfortable I have
been wearing them for bouldering recently. n

Picture Lhotse Leggings Kora Shola Bottoms

78 may–juN 2021 www.climber.co.uk

BMC UPDATE
The national Council needs volunteers
Are you passionate about the interests of climbers, hill walkers
and mountaineers? Do you want to volunteer to share your
knowledge & experience whilst working with great people?
If you have commitment, energy and enthusiasm, now is your
chance to give something back.
The National Council is the representative body for the BMC’s
members. It has spent the past two-years reviewing how to be more
representative and as such is expanding the members’ voice through
the creation of six new councillor positions. These new councillors
will champion their areas, and work with the Council, BMC committees
and other volunteers to ensure that the BMC remains the “representa-
tive body for the sport and recreation of Mountaineering”.
Four volunteers are sought as Nationally Elected Councillors (NECs)
to represent members in each of the key participation activities of rock
climbing, hill walking, mountaineering and indoor climbing.
Two further volunteer Councillors are sought from the member
constituencies of Mountain Training and BMC affiliated Clubs.
This is an exciting time for the BMC as it seeks to expand member
engagement and increase grassroots representation, so please consider
volunteering.
FIND OUT MORE: www.thebmc.co.uk/council-volunteers
Rock out! BmC courses 2021
make your first moves onto rock by having a fun day learning
to climb outdoors with experienced instructors.
We’ve got two sets of courses that will cover the use of some key
skills and equipment. These courses are ideal for novice climbing
club members, students, parents and individuals who may have
had the odd taster of climbing outdoors and wish to gain key safety
skills at an excellent price. They may also be a good precursor for
people contemplating the Single Pitch Award training. You should
already know how to put on a harness and belay.
The courses will run on a variety of dates at a number of locations
across the country. To find out more, follow the links below to the
individual course landing pages.
Ready to Rock: Outdoor days 2021:
www.thebmc.co.uk/ready-to-rock-outdoor-days-2021 BmC Elected Officers
President: Lynn Robinson
Women’s Ready to Rock Courses 2021: Chair of the Board of Directors:
www.thebmc.co.uk/womens-ready-to-rock Gareth Pierce
CEO: Dave Turnbull
See you there.
The great BmC Climate Project
relaunch
Make a real difference – to the local landscapes that you love and
the global climate crisis. We’re relaunching this important
campaign in February.
The Climate Project is an amazing mission to support the work of
Moors for the Future. Out on our wild moorlands grows an amazing
plant called sphagnum. When sphagnum is growing healthily, this
little plant powerhouse takes as much carbon out of the atmosphere
as a tropical rainforest.
Since starting the BMC Climate Project we’ve seen donations pour
in from a huge number of people and partners. We want to thank
everyone for their vital support and especially our partners Montane
who promised to donate a whopping 5% of sales from its MONTANE X
BMC range to the cause.
So far the project has raised £25,000 and we’re excited to see how
much more we can be donated this year.
MAKE A REAL DIFFERENCE: www.thebmc.co.uk/the-climate-project
The BmC annual General meeting 2021
join the livestream on 15 may
In light of the on-going Covid-19 crisis the AGM will once again
be entirely online, there is no venue to attend. If you’d like to have
your say in the future of the BMC, get all the latest updates and see
some friendly faces, please join us live by using the link provided
on the BMC website.
As in previous years you are able to appoint anyone as a Nominated
Proxy. However, due to the virtual nature of this year’s AGM, if you
decide to appoint a Nominated Proxy that is not the chair of the AGM,
you must provide an email address for them.
AGM INFO: www.thebmc.co.uk/agm
THE BRITISH MOUNTAINEERING COUNCIL
More on news & events: www.thebmc.co.uk
The British
mountaineering Council
177–179 Burton Road,
Manchester, M20 2BB
Tel: 0161 445 6111
Email: office@thebmc.co.uk
www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2021 79
 IN LIFE WE ARE
ALL CLIMBERS
Climbing enthusiasts around the
world are wearing their CAC colours
with pride. Together, the Climbers
Against Cancer community helps
to raise much needed funds for
research in the battle against cancer,
a disease that affects so many.

SO... CHALK UP YOUR HANDS. GET

INVOLVED. LET’S CLIMB AGAINST CANCER.
GET YOUR CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES ONLINE NOW!

TO S E E H O W YO U C A N H E L P V I S IT
WWW.CLIMBERSAGAINSTCANCER.ORG
/CacClimbersAgainstCancer @ClimbersAgainst /climbersagainstcancerofficial
 Classifieds
fo rm at io n pl ea se co ntact Hayley Comey
For further in .u k Te l: 0 17 78 392445
rs gr ou p. co
Email: hayleyc@warne
RETAILERS GUIDE COURSES/HOLIDAYS/ACTIVITIES
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BOOT REPAIR
ROCK BOOT RESOLES Visit our new
Five Ten / Vibram XS/XS2 Grip Rubber £46
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WEB DIRECTORY
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Call the REC Helpline 01224 622383
CLIMBER LEGENDS
6 Victor Saunders on
the Traverse of the Gods
on the Eiger North Face
in 1978. Photo: Victor
Saunders Collection
2 Magnificent position;
awful conditions on an
attempt to make the
first ascent of Chombu
(6,362m) in the Himalaya.
Photo: Mick Fowler
82 MAY–JUN 2021
VICTOR SAUNDERS
Victor Saunders is a world-renowned British mountaineer and author.
He was born in Lossiemouth, Scotland and grew up in Malaya.
Victor started climbing in the Alps
in 1978, during which he completed
some of his earliest notable summits.
This included the winter ascents of
Shield Direct (the first route on Ben
Nevis to be graded VI) and the Eiger
North Face. Since then, Victor has
embarked on more than ninety
expeditions in mountain ranges in
Europe, the Himalayas and Karakoram.
www.climber.co.uk
Throughout his climbing career, Victor
has achieved many first ascents, with
some of his earliest being in the 1980s.
This included the East Face of Uzum Brak
(1980), the West Face Direct of Ushba
(1986), the Golden Pillar of Spantik with
Mick Fowler (1987), Jitchu Drake (1988)
and the West Face of Kangchuntse with
Stephen Sustad (1989).
Victor’s list of accomplishments
continued to grow in the 1990s, during
which he completed even more first
ascents. In 1992, alongside Dick
Renshaw, Stephen Sustad and Stephen
Venables, Victor climbed the new route
up the South East Ridge of Rajramba
and also completed the first ascent of
Panchchuli V.
Four years later, after finishing his
career as an architect in London, Victor
then became a mountain guide for the
UIAGM (known alternatively by the
English abbreviation, IFMGA – the Inter-
national Federation of Mountain Guide
Associations).
In 2003, Victor relocated to Chamonix,
France and became a member of the
SNGM (National Syndicate of French
Mountain Guides). The year after, Victor
reached the summit of Mount Everest
for the first time in May and went on
to climb it several more times. In 2013,
Victor achieved his Seven Summits bid
after completing back-to-back summits
on Aconcagua.
Alongside his various climbing
accomplishments, Victor has also won
prizes in mountain literature. His first
book, Elusive Summits: Four Expeditions
in the Karakoram, won the Boardman
Tasker Prize in 1991 and in 2015,
Victor won the Grand Prize at the Passy
International Mountain Book Festival for
Himalaya: The Tribulations of Vic & Mick.
In his new book, Structured Chaos (the
follow-up to Himalaya), Victor recounts
his incredible mountaineering triumphs
as well as his rescues, tragedies and
failures. Spanning the decades from his
initial climbing experiences as a student
to his first ascent of Sersank Peak’s North
Face, Victor chronicles his extraordinary
mountaineering career with humour and
warmth whilst highlighting the value of
friendship and the things that really
matter in life.
In collaboration with
Vertebrate Publishing
NEXT ISSUE
JULY – AUGUST 2021
CRACK SPECIAL INCLUDING:
TOP CRACK CLIMBS
OF THE UK
A locals’ run-down of the best crack climbs
in various areas of the UK.

CARNIVOROUS CORNWALL
Dig deep, growl loud. Stu Bradbury delves into
West Cornwall’s wide cracks.

IF YOU DON’T LIKE CRACKS:

HARPUR HILL
This Derbyshire quarry is home to many fine
low to mid-grade sport and trad routes.

FEAR IN CLIMBING
Helpful and unhelpful fear in climbing: how you
can use mindfulness techniques to tell the
difference and remain composed on the wall.

TRAD PROTECTION
ESSENTIALS – CAMS
AND NUTS
A look at micro-cams and cams plus passive
protection in the forms of nuts (wires) for
trad climbing.

The twin cracks of Embankment Route 2 (VS 4c) at

Millstone Edge, Peak District. Photo: David Simmonite

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