BCW 312-Current Approach in Chemical

Waving

Module 1

Hair- Hair is simple in structure, but has important functions in social functioning. Hair is made
of a tough protein called keratin. A hair follicle anchors each hair into the skin. The hair bulb
forms the base of the hair follicle. In the hair bulb, living cells divide and grow to build the hair
shaft.

THREE LAYERS OF HAIR SHAFT

The medulla – the deepest layer of the hair shaft, only seen in large and thick hairs.
The cortex – the middle layer of the hair shaft which provides the strength, colour and texture of
a hair fibre.
The cuticle – the outer layer of the hair shaft is thin and colourless.

Hair Growth

The four phases of hair growth include anagen, catagen, telogen, and exogen. Each phase
lasts for a different length of time. A healthy lifestyle of low stress, proper diet, and gentle hair
care should help promote healthy hair growth for a long time.
 1. Anagen: Growing phase
The stages of hair growth begin with the anagen phase. It’s the longest phase, lasting
about 3 to 5 years for the hairs on your head, though for some people a single hair
could continue growing for 7 or more years.
2. Catagen: Transition phase
The catagen phase starts when the anagen phase ends, and tends to last about 10
days or so. During this chapter, hair follicles shrink and hair growth slows. The hair also
separates from the bottom of the hair follicle, yet remains in place during its final days of
growing.
3. Telogen: Resting phase
The telogen phase typically lasts around 3 months. An estimated 10 to 15 percent of
your scalp hairs are in this phase.
Hairs don’t grow during the telogen phase, but they don’t usually fall out either. The
telogen phase is also when new hairs start to form in follicles that have just released
hairs during the catagen phase.
4. Exogen: Shedding phase
The exogen phase is essentially an extension or a part of the telogen stage of hair
growth. During the exogen phase, hair is shed from the scalp, often helped along by
washing and brushing. Losing 50 to 100 hairs per day during the exogen phase is
normal.
During the exogen phase, which can last about 2 to 5 months, new hairs are growing in
the follicles as old hairs fall away.

Types of Hair

Straight-Hair texture generally refers to the natural shape or pattern

of your strands. ... If it dries straight without a bend or curl, then your hair is straight

Wavy-Wavy hair is not straight or curly, but curves slightly.

Curly- having hair that forms curls.

 Coily- is a type of curly hair that is super voluminous.

There are four main types of hair texture: Type 1 - straight, Type 2 - wavy, Type
3 - curly and Type 4 - tightly curled. The hair type and texture can be further
broken down into a, b and c based on the hair's curl pattern, density, porosity,
width and length. For example, someone with loose curls would be Type 3a and
someone with tight curls would be Type 3b.

Commented [Q1]:
Types of hair and texture are as follows:

 Type 1 is straight hair that doesn't curl. This hair type also has the most
sheen, is the most resilient and is hard to damage. It is also immensely
difficult to curl this type of hair because the scalp sebum spreads easily
from the scalp to ends, making it the most oily type of hair and difficult to
style.
o 1a - Stick straight
o 1b - Straight with more volume
o 1c - Straight with body wave and a couple of visible S-waves, usually
the neck or temples
 Type 2 is wavy hair that is in between straight and curly. The sheen is in
between wavy and curly. Wavy hair is also more likely to become frizzy
than straight hair. Certain types of wavy hair are easy to style, whereas
others are more resistant to styling.
o 2a - Loose, stretched S-waves
o 2b - Shorter, more distinct S-waves
o 2c - Distinct S-waves with some spiral curls
 Type 3 is curly hair that looks like the letter “S” or “Z.” This hair type is
usually voluminous. It is highly climate-dependent and can become frizzy
and get damaged easily. Proper care is required to maintain healthy, well-
defined curls.
o 3a - Big, loose spiral curls
o 3b - Bouncy ringlets
o 3c - Tight corkscrew curls
  Type 4 is the hair that is coiled very tightly. It is often fragile with a very
high density. This type of hair shrinks when wet because it has fewer
cuticle layers than other hair types. It is more susceptible to damage than
other hair types.
o 4a - Tightly coiled S-curls
o 4b - Tightly coiled, Z pattern curls
o 4c - Mostly Z-patterned, tightly kinked and less defined curls

Function of Hair

The primary function of human hair is to insulate the human body. Hair does this in
two ways: it serves as a physical barrier between external cold air and the skin, and it
also traps warm air in between the skin and the hair, keeping the body warmer.

Skin diseases affecting the scalp

Dandruff
Little white flakes signal an old-fashioned case of dandruff. It can be annoying when the
flakes fall on a dark shirt. Dandruff is simply a buildup of shedding dead skin. We don’t
know the cause, but it may be due to a fungus on the skin.

Seborrheic Dermatitis
Dandruff is a mild form of seborrheic dermatitis. In more severe cases, you’ll see a
reddening of the scalp and a lot of oil. You may also see reddish, greasy crusty scales
between your eyebrows, and around your nose and ears. According to the American
Academy of Dermatology, it’s common in those with oily skin or hair, acne, or psoriasis.

Cradle Cap
This form of seborrheic dermatitis affects infants, typically in the first 6 months. It causes
greasy, yellowish scales or crusts on the scalp. Although it may frighten parents, cradle cap
is not a sign of a more serious infection, and it will usually clear up by the baby's first
birthday.
For treatment, try rubbing your baby's scalp softly with baby or mineral oil to loosen the
scales. After a few minutes, wash your baby's hair with a gentle baby shampoo. Then
brush the scalp very gently with a soft brush to loosen the flakes. If a regular shampoo isn't
working, ask your pediatrician about a medicated one.

Head Lice
Lice are an unpleasant but all-too-common part of childhood. More than 12 million
Americans get them every year, and most are between the ages of 3 and 11. Once lice find
their way into a school or summer camp, they spread quickly as children share combs,
brushes, and hats.
Lice are wingless insects about the size of a sesame seed. They feed on blood, and the
females lay their eggs on the hair close to the scalp. Although they don't cause serious
illness, they are something that children -- and their parents -- would rather live without.
Having lice doesn’t mean a child is dirty, as they can pop up in anyone’s hair.

Ringworm
Despite the name, ringworm has nothing to do with worms. It's an infection that leaves
round, scaly, red rashes and patches of hair loss on the scalp. Ringworm is most common
in children between the ages of 3 and 7, but it can affect adults, too. It’s spread through
close contact or by sharing hats, clothing, towels, and combs. In rare cases, it's possible to
catch ringworm from a dog or cat.

Folliculitis
Folliculitis is an inflammation or infection of the hair follicle, the sac that contains the root of
the hair. It's usually caused by bacteria (usually staphylococcus) that find their way into the
hair follicles from a nearby infection. The follicles also can be irritated from
shaving, makeup, or clothing. Some people get folliculitis after taking a dip in a hot tub.
Look for small, pus-filled pimples. Some mild cases will go away without treatment, but an
antibiotic can help clear up the bacteria quickly. If shaving, waxing, or plucking is the cause,
you may need to hold off on these for a few weeks to allow healthy hair to grow. Be sure to
keep the affected area clean, cool, and dry.

Psoriasis
This skin condition can show up anywhere, but often happens on the scalp. It causes
the body to make too many new skin cells. This buildup can form thick, crusted scales
that can feel itchy or sore.
You usually treat psoriasis with steroid creams or ointments. Shampoos with tar or
salicylic acid may also be helpful. Ultraviolet light therapy (shining UV light on the skin to
slow the growth of skin cells) is another option. Severe cases may need medication
taken by mouth or in an injection.

Lichen Planus
Lichen planus affects the skin or mouth. No one knows what causes it, but there are a
number of theories, ranging from stress to genetics. It may also be linked to the hepatitis B
or C virus, dental materials, or thyroid disease. Doctors believe lichen planus is
an autoimmune disease, which means your immune system attacks your own body by
mistake. Anti-malaria medications and those used to treat high blood pressure, heart
disease, and arthritis can sometimes cause a lichen planus-like irritation.
 Diseases and Disorder of Scalp and Hair

Telogen Effluvium

Hair shedding

Shedding is most often temporary and due to telogen effluvium (hair bulbs present), but
may also be during anagen (no hair bulb) if due to alopecia areata or provoked by a
drug (e.g. retinoid, hormone, anticoagulant, statin, cytotoxic).
Telogen effluvium may follow two or three months after a provoking event, most
often parturition, sudden weight loss, blood loss, fever or stress. The shedding stops
within a few months but it may take a couple of years for the hair bulk to appear normal.
Chronic telogen effluvium arises when the hair cycle has sped up so that the anagen
phase is shorter; identify and treat iron deficiency (test ferritin) and hypothyroidism. it is
rare in children; most cases are women with diffuse non-androgenic pattern balding.

Diffuse Hair Lose

Pattern Balding (Male) Pattern Balding (Female)

Diffuse alopecia

Diffuse hair thinning in adults is most often due to male pattern balding in men
(androgen-dependent) and female pattern balding (non-androgen-dependent) in
females. These rarely present in adolescents. However, diffuse hair thinning may
accompany internal disease (particularly systemic lupus erythematosus and syphilis).
Thin fragile hair may also accompany iron deficiency. Coarse dry hair may be due to
hypothyroidism. In the absence of other symptoms, alopecia areata may be responsible.

Localised alopecia
Balding can be reversible, but if there is scarring it is permanent. Alopecia areata is the
most common cause of one or more areas of localised baldness on the scalp and other
hair-bearing areas. It is an autoimmune skin disease and is more common in those
affected by, or with a family history of, vitiligo, diabetes and thyroid disease. It is also
more common in Down syndrome. Although the onset may be at any age, it most often
starts in childhood or young adult life.

The scalp appears normal in alopecia areata, but there may be broken-off short hairs
resembling exclamation marks (!) In typical alopecia areata, there are one or several
round smooth bald patches. In about 5% all hair from the head is lost (alopecia totalis)
and in 1% the body hair is also lost (alopecia universalis). In 80% there is regrowth
within a few months, but it may be lost elsewhere at the same time or
later. Prognosis seems less good in very young children, if the initial hair loss is severe
and extensive or affecting facial areas. The nails may be affected resulting in pitting and
ridging.

Alopecia Areata

Alopecia Universals Loss of Eyebrows

Marginal Regrowth Improvement

There is a strong placebo effect of treatment because spontaneous regrowth may occur
at any stage. It is therefore hard to assess the value of individual treatments. Limited
localised disease in children is best managed by
ultrapotent topical steroid cream or gel under occlusion. Older children may tolerate
intralesional corticosteroid injections 6 to 8-weekly (maximum 20mg per visit).

District Health Boards provide a subsidy to obtain a wig, if medically necessary.If bald
patches are accompanied by inflammation (erythema, scaling, pustules) consider other
reasons for hair loss in children:
  Tinea capitis (positive microscopy/culture of scale and extracted hair)
 Trichotillomania (hair that has been pulled or twisted out: look for broken hairs)
 Traction from plaits and braids

Inflammatory Hair Loss

Tinea Capitis Trichotillomania

Hair shaft abnormalities

These are rare and diagnosed by light or electron microscopy. They present as thin,
short, or unruly hair in young children. The most common abnormalities are:

 Monilethrix: beaded hair

 Pili torti: twisted hair

Hair shaft abnormalities

Loose of anagen syndrome Spangled Hair Shaft Abnormality

Excessive hair

Hirsutism is excessive hair growth in females in the beard area, around the nipples, in a
male pattern on the abdomen (diamond-shaped pubic hair) and often elsewhere. It is
more common in darker skinned Europeans or Middle-Eastern women. It causes a
great deal of distress and onset may be at puberty.

Hirsutism is the result of the conversion of fine vellus hair to coarse terminal
hair induced by androgens. These may be endogenous (adrenal, pituitary or ovarian
origin) or exogenous (androgenic drugs). Excessive androgens will also result in
virilism, amenorrhoea and infertility. Investigations should include:

 Free testosterone and sex hormone binding globulin

 Cortisol, FSH, LH
 Ultrasound examination for polycystic ovaries

However, end-organ sensitivity in idiopathic hirsutism is more common, in which

investigations indicate hormone status to be normal.

Idiopathic hirsutism

Physical methods of hair removal include:

 Shaving
 Depilating cream
 Waxing
 Electrolysis
 Laser epilation

Medical treatment may be helpful: spironolactone, ethinyloestrodiol/cyproterone

contraceptive pill or 50-200mg cyproterone for days 1 to 10 of the menstrual cycle.

Hypertrichosis may be congenital (hairy congenital naevi, hypertrichosis lanuginose

and familial hypertrichosis) or acquired. Acquired hypertrichosis may be due to
medications (ciclosporin, minoxidil, antiepileptics) or disease (hypercorticism,
hypothyroidism, porphyria cutanea tarda, anorexia nervosa). Medical treatment should
be directed at the underlying disease.

Hypertrichosis
 Congenital Hypertrichosis Becker Naevus Effect of Ciclosporin

Basic Tips to Maintain Healthy Hair

Hair Care Dos

1. Wash Your Hair Regularly

Washing your hair regularly ensures that your scalp and hair is free of dirt and
excess oil. However, the right frequency depends on your hair type and personal
preferences. If you have extremely dry hair, limit your washing to twice a week. If
you have an oily scalp, washing your hair on alternate days can help.

2. Use Chemical Free Shampoos

You really can’t control all the environmental factors that damage your hair, but
what you can control is the kind of shampoos you use. Lesser the number of
chemicals in your shampoo, healthier your hair. Go for gentle shampoos that suit
your hair type.
Sulfates and parabens in shampoos are used for lathering and preserving
respectively, but they can cause skin irritation over time and increase the risk of
hormonal disruptions.

3. Condition Correctly

Your conditioner contains ingredients that make the hair fall straight and
manageable. It protects your hair from environmental aggressors and heat styling.
However, it should be applied only on the tips of the hair and not on your scalp.
Also, make sure to rinse it off thoroughly post application.

5. Dry Your Hair Naturally

We know. Blow drying makes your hair as beautiful as that of your on-screen idol.
But excessive heat styling can damage your hair scalp. Limit it to important events,
if you have to style. Air drying or towel drying after shampoo is the best way to go.
Never sleep in wet hair or comb wet hair. Harsh rubbing with a towel can damage
the cuticle of your hair. Be gentle.

5. Oil Your Hair Properly

Pre-shampoo treatments like oiling and massaging improve blood circulation on

the scalp, relax your muscles, boost shine and nourish the hair. It also restores
moisture content, enables hair growth and repairs split ends. You can choose from
coconut oil, almond oil, olive oil, castor oil and the likes. Avoid using mineral oil on
your hair.
Pro Tip:
Once in a while, apply warm oil and wrap your head in a towel to let the oil work its
way. Consider a mask to soothe the cuticle of your hair before shampooing. It helps
in reducing the friction between hair strands during shampoo application.

6. Use A Wide-toothed Comb

Wet hair is fragile and prone to breakage. Let your hair dry and then use a wide-
toothed comb to brush your hair. This kind of a comb prevents damage to your
hair.

7. Style Your Hair Naturally

Who does not like those gorgeous curls or perfect waves? But you can achieve
these without putting your hair through heat. Here’s how:

If you still wish to use a curler or straightener or a blow dryer, invest in a good heat
protectant serum first.

8. Trim Your Hair Regularly

Trim your hair every 6-8 weeks to get rid of split ends. Split ends form when the
hair is damaged due to heat styling, pollution, smoking, stress and so on. Trimming
does not magically make the hair grow faster. Hair growth happens at the scalp
level, but trimming ensures healthy hair.

9. Drink More Water

Internal hydration coupled with external hydration is the key to well-balanced and
healthy hair. You may be using hydrating hair care products and oils, but drinking
at least 3 litres of water everyday ensures good hair health.

10. Eat Healthy

We will go on repeating ‘you are what you eat’ as long as we write about hair care
and skin care. Your hair is made of proteins and amino acids. It needs the right
nutrition to grow well and maintain itself. Eggs, berries, nuts, fish, green leafy
vegetables, sweet potatoes are some of the many great foods for healthy hair.

11. Use Hair Caps/hats

Just as sunlight has a damaging effect on your skin, it applies to your hair too.
Harsh sun rays can remove the moisture from your hair making it dry, brittle and
damaged over the course of time. Use hats when you step out to protect your hair
from this damage. Protect your hair with caps when you are in a swimming pool.
Chlorinated water is bad for your hair.

12. Use Hair Bands

We love to flaunt our open hair, but do use hair bands to limit the hair exposure to
environmental aggressors. Use fabric hair ties instead of the plastic ones. Don’t
pull your hair too tight when making a ponytail or any other hairstyle.

13. Use A Hair Wrap Or Old T-shirt To Dry

This one’s new. Your t-shirt can be used to dry your wet hair without causing
damage to the hair. Traditional towels are rough on your hair cuticles and damage
your hair over time. Save up your soft, old t-shirts from now on!

Hair Care Don’ts

5. Hot Showers

Hot showers strip off the natural oils from your scalp leaving it dry and flaky. Cold
showers are your best bet.

5. Stress

If you notice someone with healthy hair, we can bet our lives and say that they
worry a little less. Stress can cause hair fall and unhealthy hair.
 5. Chemicals

Chemicals from dying, perming and other hair treatments affect your hair follicles,
disrupt hair growth and can also lead to hair fall.

5. Hair Styling Products

Heat styling using straighteners, blow dryers and curlers for prolonged periods
changes hair texture, makes hair dry and prone to breakage.

5. Salt Water Hair Wash

Salt water damages the hair cuticle, irritates the scalp and makes the hair tangled.
Avoid chlorinated water in swimming pools.

What Happens When You Don’t Take Care Of Your Hair?

If you don’t take care of your hair, it may stop growing after a point. Slowly, you
may start experiencing dandruff, hair fall, dryness and dullness.
Not washing hair for long periods can cause ingrown hairs. Yes, you heard it right!
They can occur on the scalp too. Also, by leaving your hair unwashed for a long
time, you are attracting more dust. Using wrong hair care products can make you
feel itchy and lead to hair fall.
Wrapping Up
So by using chemical-free products created for your individual hair type, eating
right, avoiding heat styling and following all the above tips, you can bid bad hair
days a goodbye! But most importantly, if you experience excessive hair fall and
damage despite following a good hair care routine, consult your doctor. And hair
or no hair, celebrate yourself nevertheless.

Prepared by:

Queenie T. Tocol