NODAK SPUD LLC

7683 WASHINGTON AVENUE SOUTH

EDINA MN. 55439
Ph: 952-942-1909 Fax: 952-942-1912
info@nodakspud.com

Thank you for purchasing the NDS-1948 “UZI” type receiver from
NoDak Spud LLC & McKay Enterprises
This is a short tutorial to help you understand what you need to do to make
this a safe, fun, and 922R compliant semi-automatic rifle.

The Legal Stuff:

1. According to ATF Technical Branch: the UZI has 13 parts out of the 922R list of 20 countable imported
parts. In order to make this firearm compliant, you may only have a MAXIMUM of 10 imported parts from
the list. This means you need AT LEAST three (3) US made parts on this firearm.

2. The receiver and front trunion count as two (2), and a 16” US made barrel would be the third. This is the
easiest way to do the build. A US made semi-auto bolt will give you another, and we recommend you use
a McKay bolt available from NDS as it has the “B” model striker blocking lever. This safety feature helps
keep the gun from firing out of battery (“OOB”) when a round won’t fully seat in the chamber for some
reason.

**You cannot use an original style 10” barrel on this receiver without registering it with ATF as an “SBR”
(Short Barreled Rifle), or building the gun as a Pistol **

Also, if you are reclaiming the receiver parts from your kit, you CANNOT use the front trunion for a rifle
build as it will allow the short barrel to be installed.You must use a “semi-auto” style trunion which has a
reduced inside diameter for the 16” semi-auto barrels.

3. Receivers that have NEVER been assembled into rifles can be built legally into a Pistol, but there are
requirements regarding the stock attachment features that need to be followed. Contact ATF Technical
Branch for the exact details and legal requirements. Ph: 304-260-1699

4. There are several features on this receiver (fully welded model) that preclude the use of “full-auto”
military parts.

• The front trunion will not allow a military barrel to be installed.

• The rear barrel support ring will not allow a military barrel to be installed
• The bottom of the feed ramp will not allow “full-auto sear” to be used. You must modify it to a
“semi-auto” configuration. (instructions are found later in this tutorial)
• The right rear of the receiver has a blocking bar welded in that will not allow a “full-auto” bolt to
be used.

5. According to ATF: you MUST use a semi-auto bolt in this firearm, and you MUST weld in a blocking plate
inside the lower grip frame to keep the selector lever from being moved forward to the “auto” position.
(instructions are found later in this tutorial)

**Failure to do so will result in a violation of Federal Law regarding the illegal manufacture of a machine
gun. DON’T BE THAT GUY**
The Building Stuff:
1. If you are starting with a fully welded receiver and a military surplus parts kit you will need the following
parts from the kit:

• Barrel nut
• Barrel nut latch w/ spring
• Front sight post w/ washer and lock nut
• Handguards w/ screws
• Top cover assembly
• Extractor and cross pin from bolt
• Recoil spring assembly
• Rear sight aperture w/ cross screw, nut, and flat spring
• Top cover latch w/ coil spring
• Folding buttstock w/ attaching screw and nut (or fixed buttstock)
• Complete lower grip frame
• Take-down pin for grip frame

2. You will need to remove the parts from the old receiver chunks:

• Depress the barrel nut latch and unscrew the barrel nut.
• Use a punch to depress the tail hook of the barrel nut latch, and pull it forward out of the receiver
chunk. (don’t lose the small spring)
• Use an UZI sight tool or a pliers to unscrew (counter-clockwise) the lock nut on the front sight post,
then unscrew the post, lock nut, and washer.
• Unscrew the rear sight cross screw nut; you may need to fabricate a slotted tip screwdriver blade to
unscrew it. Unscrew the cross screw while depressing the aperture against the flat spring.
• Hold the flat spring down as you pull the aperture out; there is a coil spring underneath and it will fly
out if not controlled. Gently lift the flat spring up while holding the top cover latch to the rear, then
pull the latch and coil spring out the front.

3. Remove the cardboard “plate” from the back of the recoil spring assembly by clamping it in a vise and
carefully cutting/tearing it off. Do not bend the recoil spring rod.

4. You must remove the ratchet mechanism from the top cover assembly for a semi-auto build:

• Unscrew the large screw in the center of the cocking knob (it may be staked in) and pull the knob and
slot cover plate off.
• Underneath the cover plate is the small ratchet pawl, remove it. You can now reassemble.
• If the cocking knob return spring is stretched out and sloppy, you should replace it with a new one.
 IT’S YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING WORKS PROPERLY BEFORE YOU
SHOOT YOUR FIREARM.
IF YOU CANNOT DO THESE OPERATIONS TAKE IT TO A PROFFESIONAL GUNSMITH, OR TRADE
THEM IN TO D & D SALES FOR PRE-MODIFIED SEMI-AUTO PARTS.

5. You must disassemble the lower grip frame to weld in a blocking plate:

• Unscrew the two (2) grip panel screws, making sure that you don’t let the grip safety spring launch
when the panels separate.
• Remove the panels and the grip safety spring.
• Pull the grip safety all the way to the rear so the clearance cut is under the rear pivot pin.
• Unhook the two legs of the trigger spring from the disconnector block and push the trigger pivot pin
out from left (safety side) to the right. You may have to wiggle the trigger as you push/pull the pin
out.
• Pull the trigger spring and trigger/disconnector assembly out the top.
• Remove the bolt interrupter lever from the left side; it is not used on a semi-auto build, and will keep
your lower grip frame from fully seating on a semi-auto receiver.
• Remove the grip safety by pulling to the rear, then move straight up, and finally forward up and out.
• Push/pull out the sear pivot pin and remove the sear and sear spring.

6. As the dimensions of surplus parts vary, you will need to measure the distance from the inside front of
the grip frame to the front of the safety lever with the selector switch in the “semi” position. This will tell
you how long the blocking plate needs to be. Ours was “around” 5/8th inch (.625”) yours may be longer or
shorter so measure it well.

• Place the trigger pivot pin back in the grip frame to hold the safety lever down in the proper position,
and shift the selector to the semi (middle) position.
• Now measure the distance between the front of the lever and the inside front of the grip frame.
7. The blocking plate should be between .050” to .075” thick. If you make it thicker it may impede the
operation of the sear. If it’s too thin it may not block the safety lever and allow it slide over it to the “auto”
position.

• Remove the trigger pin, safety lever, selector switch, and selector spring to allow access for
welding.
• Weld the plate into position, let it cool down, clean off any slag, and grind/mill the top of the
welds flush with the top of the plate.
• Reassemble the safety lever, selector switch, and spring. Hold it in place with the trigger pin as
before.
• Check to see if the selector switch can be pushed from the “semi” position forward to the
“auto” position. If not, then you are free to reassemble for a further functions check.
• If the selector switch can be pushed past the middle (semi) position, but not all the way into the
third (auto) position, it can still cause problems by allowing the disconnector to fall behind the
safety lever and jam up. Add some weld or reposition your blocking plate until the selector
switch clicks firmly into “semi”, but doesn’t move forward to “auto”.
• If you can’t get the selector to “click” firmly into the middle (semi) position from the rear (safe)
position now, you made your blocking plate too long. Trim the rear edge of the plate until it
operates correctly.

Here’s how a properly installed blocking plate should look

8. The sear must be modified to a semi-auto configuration to work in our receiver:
• You can cut the back of the sear with a vertical mill or dremel. Make sure the finished face is
smooth and even.
• Make sure you remove enough material to clear the feed ramp, the small flat in front of the sear
“hump” will bottom out against the bottom, outside of the receiver shell when done properly.
• This is important because you want to sear to be able to have its full penetration into the
receiver for proper engagement of the striker.
• Cut the engagement surface of the sear at 90 deg to the top of the sear “hump”. See picture
• When installed, you want the engagement surface of the sear to be as close to perpendicular to
the bottom of the receiver as possible. You may have to adjust the angle to suit your parts.
• You can check the sear to striker engagement by using spray on sight black or candle soot. This
will show how much “grab” the sear has on the striker.
• Too loose of a top cover fit can allow the striker to “jump” over the sear. Top cover gap should
be between .005”-.015”. Check with a feeler gauge inserted between the bolt and top cover.

Here’s a picture comparing a modified and an original sear

9. Once you have a properly functioning semi-auto lower grip frame, the rest of the build is simple.

• Reinstall the sight hardware and top cover latch in the reverse order that you took it apart.
• Screw the front handguards in place using the holes on the bayonet lug and rear handguard
mounting pin.
• Snap the barrel latch (w/ spring) into the slot at the front of the receiver. If the latch does not
stay in place you may need to gently bend the hook up to engage the rear of the front sight
base.
• Take the stock attaching nut and insert the round end through the hole in the back of the
receiver, making sure that the flat of the flange is facing down. Hold this in place with one finger.
• Take your buttstock with your other hand and place the mounting plate on the back end of the
receiver so that the round tab of the nut is in the hole on the stock. Insert the Allen head screw
and tighten down.
• Insert the front tab of the grip frame into the corresponding slot on the bottom of the receiver
and rotate the back end up until the hole in the grip frame lines up with the hole on the grip lug
on the receiver.
• Install the grip frame take down pin. You may need to wiggle the grip front to back to get the
holes to line up.
10. At this point you will need the following “New Parts”:
• A 16” US made semi-auto barrel.
• The rubber buffer/spring guide insert for the back of the receiver.
• Complete semi-auto bolt assembly with striker and spring (we recommend the McKay bolt
assembly with the “B” model striker safety lever).

Here’s a picture of the remaining parts to be installed:

11. Once you have the complete firearm assembled, you need to perform a functions check before shooting
it.

• Make sure the magazine is removed and the selector switch is in the “safe” (rearmost) position.
• While holding the grip safety down (normal firing grip), pull the cocking knob to the rear and look
inside to make sure the chamber is empty.
• Double check to make sure the gun is unloaded.

12. With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction and the selector switch in the “safe” (rearmost) position:
• Release your hand from the grip safety and attempt to pull the trigger. It should not fire.
• Depress the grip safety and attempt to pull the trigger. It should not fire.

13. With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, move the selector switch to the “semi” (middle) position:
• Remove your hand from the grip safety and attempt to pull the trigger. It should not fire.
• Depress the grip safety and attempt to pull the trigger. It should fire now.
• Holding the trigger and grip safety down, pull the cocking knob to the rear to re-cock the firearm.
• Then release the trigger only. You should hear and feel the trigger reset.

Once you are satisfied that the trigger pack functions properly, you may go test fire your rifle.

If you have any questions please call us at 952-942-1909.

Sources for UZI parts:

Numrich Gun Parts

SARCO INC.
Apex Gun Parts
D and D Sales
DSA
Green Mountain Rifle Barrels
RobertRTG