traditional clothes in Tunisia

Clothing- The clothing in Tunisia varies with the region, though much is influenced
by Western-style of clothing. However,
traditional dresses are still worn in the
villages and especially among elderly people.
The traditional Tunisian dress for the women
is “Sifsari” which is an outer garment with
loose folds and a head covering worn over
western outfits. In the rural areas, women
wear “Mellia” which falls across the head and
shoulders. Tunisian men wear Chehia, a type
of head-dress made of red or brown felt
which is either rounded or flat on the top.
Other outfit worn by Tunisian men is baggy
pants and jalabiyya which is a long dress-like
garment.

Tunisian mourners wear traditional bright

red costumes at funerals. Corpses are laid on
the left side, facing Mecca.

A bedouin family drink tea in Matmata. Tunisian families are patriarchal.

 Women's responsibilities can include spinning
and weaving wool.

Tunisian chechia struggles to survive

Despite numerous attempts, the Tunisian chechia has not reclaimed its place among
Tunisians. Meanwhile, the government tries to support the traditional industries
sector, which reflects the country’s identity.

Text and photos by Iheb Al-Tounisi for

Magharebia in Tunis—16/03/07

In a traditional market in Tunis, there is

an area in disrepair, dotted with closed
shops and crumbling walls. It is the
chechia makers' market, and it has fallen
on hard times. Many craftsmen have left
it behind to pursue other, more lucrative
trades, such as selling perfume, fast
food, or gifts to tourists.
Manufacture of the chechia is
The history of the chechia in Tunisia categorised as a refined craft and is
dates back five hundred years, to the subject to strict traditions
time when Andalusian Arabs arrived from Spain. A cousin of the European
beret, the head piece comes in several types: a Tunisian chechia is red in
colour, where its Libyan counterpart is black.

Official figures from the Tunisian Traditional Industries Office indicate that
80% of chechias are exported. Manufacture of the cap is categorised as a
refined craft and is subject to strict traditions. Anyone seeking to become a
craftsman in the industry undergoes a thorough examination administered by
a committee of ten craftsmen.

"The chechia industry is the most refined traditional industry, and is still
subject to stringent tests," Hajj Hechmi, a member of this committee, tells
Magharebia. "Not everyone can join the chechia craft. One either learns the
craft through [his] father, or studies with a skilled craftsman."

Despite its importance in Tunisia’s history and culture, the chechia has seen a
major decline. After Tunisia’s independence in 1956, and with the arrival of
manufactured materials and Western customs, it began losing its lustre. The
craftsmen’s earnings thus declined, and many were forced to leave the craft.
Figures show that the number of chechia makers, which used to exceed 100,
has fallen to fewer than 50 craftsmen.

Wearing the chechia is now typically confined to

holidays and religious occasions, or is associated
with the elderly. Moreover, people living in the
countryside have given up the traditional,
handmade cap for its cheaper, manufactured
equivalent.

Also to blame for the decline of the Tunisian

chechia, in the view of traditionalists, is the
absence of a coherent government programme
to rehabilitate this craft.

"Before independence, all civil servants wore the

chechia, but this was abandoned after
independence," Hajj Hechmi says. "Also, the…
Before independence, all manufactured chechia appeared, which comes at
civil servants wore the a lower price [than] the traditional ones". A
chechia traditional chechia typically cost between five and
25 dollars, where the price of a manufactured

chechia averages two dollars.

"The Secretary of Chechia Artisans prohibits us from marketing the

manufactured chechia, but he’s unable to do anything with regards to the
chechia factories. As for the Trade Ministry and Office of Traditional
Industries, we spoke with them numerous times, but to no avail," Hajj Hechmi
adds.

Despite these protestations from within the industry, many Tunisians and
specialists hold the chechia craftsmen themselves responsible for its decline.

Some feel chechia craftsmen keep

making the same forms and lack
creativity
Sunia, a student, feels the chechia craftsmen keep making the same forms
and lack creativity and innovation.

Nabil, a fine arts teacher in Tunis, says workers in the traditional industries
generally reject innovation and modern production techniques, considering
them to be solely handmade and family crafts.

In the late nineties, in order to revitalise the industry, many craftsmen began
manufacturing new varieties of chechias in different colours, shapes and
decorations. The buyer was no longer limited to hats in red or black; one
could now choose yellow and green chechias, especially for women to wear
during weddings and engagement parties. The craftsmen succeeded in
winning over a large number of young men and women, but before long, this
resurgence faded like so many trends in fashion. Once again the craftsmen
were forced to stop production, and the Tunisian chechia entered a crisis it
has yet to escape.

Mohammed Ali, a chechia craftsman since 1971, says, "We didn’t stop
making the coloured chechia. Rather, the consumer is the one who no longer
asked for it. This is from one side. Most craftsmen consider the coloured
chechia to be novelties, [insisting] that the true chechia is red."

In addition to the decline of the local market, export of Tunisian chechia to

African nations, such as Libya, Algeria and Nigeria, has also suffered.

Mohammed Ali says, "Previously the Libyan kept more than seven chechias in
his wardrobe. Now even the Libyan no longer wears one at all… same with
Algerians," Craftsman Mohammed Ali says.

Hajj Al-Nasser thinks a possible solution is to open African markets.

Meanwhile, Hajj Hechmi maintains the only solution is to ban the less
appealing manufactured chechia, which, in his opinion, wiped out the
traditional market.

According to Hajj Al-Amouri, "one of the reasons for the neglect of the
traditional chechia is the loss of primary materials from the market. For more
than three months, the National Chamber of the Chechia Industry hasn’t
purchased the wool necessary for production". He ponders, "How do you want
us to [work] when the primary materials are missing"?

Al-Amouri says, "The reason is they have a monopoly. They buy wool at a low
price and sell it to chechia makers at a higher price".

The Tunisian government says it supports all traditional industries.

Last week, government officials reviewed a draft law intended to ascribe

traditional products with their place of origin, geographical indicators or
statements of the source. The aim of the plan is to appraise the authentic
features of traditional industry products and to protect their characteristics.
Every year, March 16th in Tunisia marks National Traditional Industries and
National Dress Day, when all civil servants wear traditional dress, including
the chechia.

The Tunisian trade ministry said this year it would conduct three campaigns to
promote awareness of traditional industries. The first such campaign on
March 16th will feature price reductions on traditional clothing. The second
campaign will be launched in June, coinciding with the beginning of the
wedding and engagement season. The third will be held during the month of
Ramadan.