cw | ISSUE 26- NOveMeneR DECEMBER a Show reviews FROM HARROGATE TO CHICAGO TO BARCELONA New ; directions * TAKING A DIFFERENT APPROACH TO YOUR BUSINESS Footnotes SHOES WITH ADDED SPARKLI Sleeve: WITHOUT Qi ION, THE NEW ESSENTIALS Bridal is back! AND IT FEELS SO GOOD06 32 18 28 40 46 Contents TALKING POINT News worth knowing FIRST PERSON Laura Daly does the show HARROGATE BRIDAL ‘Allook at the numbers SECOND OPINION Sue Lovell loves being back HARROGATE HIGHLIGHTS Faves chosen by our retail pane! BEST SELLERS ‘Gowns already pegged as the new CROSSING OVER ‘Morilee’ latest recruit come from the retail sector. That's great news LETTER FROM AMERICA Pete Grimes gives a thumbs up from across the pond. BRAVO BARCELONA Innovative thinking, and global benefits OUT KINDA TOWN Chicago worked! MEMBERSHIP MATTERS What the "RBA is doibg for its members PORTFOLIO We bring you the best of boho 64 68 74 7 82 86 90 92 ELLIE'S PLACE ‘Making a difference to your reputation PETA’S PICK Favourite labels and what they have planned, GORGEOUS GUYS ‘Whats popular right now TWINKLE TOES ‘The shoes that get attention anything but plain MOVING PICTURES ‘The importance of video in today’s ‘communications \ MAKING PLANS } iol 7 LEGAL Understanding the landlord/tenant situation resulting from Covid TRAINING ‘Moving forward in this new world of retail TECHNO Says farewell o tradtional phones AND FINALLY.. You talk, we listen 6515 PHO _—Py kd ZOANI.COM fay}_ Ed’s Letter Contact Us Editor Having spent the past 18 months. like you, having eee meetings on Zoom, chats on Facetime, and photo exchanges on Instagram, this year’s return to the good, old days of full-on trade events has been a real reward for all that patience and, dare | say, nail biting, Deputy Editor \We've heard from so many about the release of long-held tensions, the Eaieeeprerall sheer excitement of meeting up with old friends, making new ones, touching fabrics and hearing the rustle as models twitled, and seeing the sparkle of shimmering beadwork. One retailer reported that for the full three days of the show she completely forgot about the trials and tribulations of the past year. Another said that the pandemic had her thinking clearly. and better able to Director evaluate what she was seeing and what she would be ordering, ‘Andy Allen ‘And we've had much the same story from those attending shows abroad ~ their particular delight in discovering new names and designers who have worked hard throughout the Covid-ridden months, to ensure thei latest offering would also be their greatest yet ‘And now, with orders placed and a new season to look forward to, we have Menswear Editor to think about protecting ourselves, our Dominic Bi businesses, our staf, and staying safe by observing guidelines, Its vital that we pull together today more than ever before to ensure an always-improving tomorrow. susi@rogol-goodkind.com jade@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07568 069785 andy@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 0785 558 7219 ‘dominic:bliss@btopenworld.com © evrctingtradetuK © aweddingtadecag © swecingtrader wedldingtradermag.com Trader \Wedksing Teer mages isan online EDITOR smoossne esa by Bes bl tse i cherthe Uk Desgred snd casted by he SUSI ROGOL-GOOPKIND Bridal is back! pegs [AND IT FEELS $0 6000, Wedding redersthe radotng {othe oer consumer bow of Cover image: It doesn't get better Meant To Be Moca Ld than this! Gown by Morilee Andy Allen Art Director “Learning what the top wedding planners are being asked for gives a clear dea of weddings of the near future.” (p82) Jade Pepperell Love Our Weddling | “Being in Harrogate was such a glorious, } highlight. So many smiles, and all those stunning collections: (pia) NOVEMBER/DECEMSER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 5The pride of New York, and always fast to dazzle the design senses, Reem ‘Acra has brought together rich textiles embroidered laces, and handmade embroideries in her Bridal Love and Dream collection for 2022, 6 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 LOTS OF LOVE You almost certainly saw Rebecca Baddeley of the Halesowen store, The Dressing Rooms, at Harrogate, and discovered she was there selling. She's been retailing private label Lux & Love for some four years in TDR, under the name Rebecca's Choice, and was asked to become the company's UK agent. Her husband, Lawson, stepped into those shoes and is heading up sales in the UK, Ireland and Europe. The gowns are spat ‘on in fashion terms and impeccable in quality and make, Best of ala store can sell them for whatever they like, (TDR retails them at a minimum X 4 margin and sometimes even X 10). There is no undercutting as images are not permitted online, which protects stockists from the bride who shops around for the best price. Want to know more? Lawson can be contacted on 0725 478569 or by email at ukaluxandlovedesigns.com. And yes, Rebecca did her Harrogate shop. She bought Lux & Love, of course, and Ellis,WEDDINGFLATION According to Norton Finance, who is seeing an increase in interest in loans to fund the big day, the average UK wedding costs between £18,000 and £32,000, and couples could be forking out an extra £1,000 to get married this year, due to record inflation rates and pent-up demand after almost a year and a half without nuptials, Here are the top wedding trends that brides, ‘grooms, and wedding guests can look forward to in 2022, ‘Macro weddings. Irs back co big old school receptions and a move away from intimate ‘minimonics'of lockdown. Thanks to triple- jabbed, 50-plusers, and acceptance of pre- ceremony Covid testing etiquette, big weddings are likely to find their way back into thediary Sequel Weddings. Many couples are plumping for ‘part two’ of their day and celebrating with friends and fuily like i's 2019. Wedding Weekenders in the UK. There's litle chance of a return to pre-pandemic destination weddings abroad. You're more likely to gecan invite toa British Isles-based weekender in 2022 instead. Great for keeping the carbon footprint One of our favourites from the Latest collection from Herve Paris is Alize, RRP £1,450. This s a’see it and fall instantly in : . (as eee Sustainable Weddings. Green credentials are reaching every aspect of wedding planning, and manageable to. FEET FIRST eae aati aie ee pede at ‘One for the fellas. Duke + Dexter's bespoke service make the big day finally reaching brides, hitting the press thanks to brides like Carrie Symonds who rented her £2,830 wedding dress for £45 ast year. When it comes to minimising single-use plastic, extra special with their unique designs. From custom hand painted ‘works of art to embroidery options across all their styles, a truly one-of-a-kind shoe fora groom and groomsmen can be created — the : possibilities are endless. More info about Duke + Dexter's wedding, bespoke service at www:dukeanddexter.com likely o be shunning the likes of plastic confetti and crockery, instead hiring tableware, using cco-friendly table-scaping, and keeping invites and. thankyou’ online to reduce waste ‘Outdoor venues arc likely to be a feature for big events for as long as Covid is still around, b= > ae oy MI cus a2 wool cnddr (OM VICTORIA JANECURVY NUMBERS South Aftican designer Elbeth Gils for 2002 - just five gowns focusing on the female sh Sensat jonal sleeves, collars, bows and overskits can be added to superbly-cut basic shapes, allowing a bride to get fully involved in designing her special gown. Shown here is Charlotte st Jown in Mikado, with hick Ul, wom with an off-the-shoulder collar. Ema HATS ON Hiccing headlines, an enchanting hhat from Poitiers Festival Collection, from Jupon. In ivory cor vintage pink, ic has its own polkador veil. The sryle number is HT-103. Check it out at www. jupon.com FLORAL THEMES eee ened Re eet et es searched for in 2021 for bridal bouquets. Here’s the top ten: 1 Poppies PRES) Posy 2,302,700 ER aC mE 4 Hydrangea 2,081,600 5 Daffodils SWE TRCY Coed TEU Teer 1,403,600 Ear ese r 9. Chrysanthemums 1,216,500 SC sssrc or Now this should inspire Sram ee acomtem ce ty display... NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 9First Person Back from Harrogate, Laura Daly of Bellissima Weddings reviews what she got absolutely ‘d intended to come back from Harrogate this year content in the knowledge that Id placed sensible orders and not let myself be swayed by the fashion-forward creations to which we all occasionally succumb (if you know, you know ~ if you don't, then well done for always being sensible; you are my hero), By fashion-forward Imean the ‘ones that you tell yourself will be marvellous ‘for the window’, the daring transparent ones that looked great on the model and promised your boutique all the trendy vibes, with their backless, unlined, unboned continental chicness. The very same gown that once tried on ina size 16 ona grey winter's day in the UK is more likely to have you (and the poor bride brave enough to have tried it on) right! seriously wondering if youre still cut ‘out for the job of spotting winners. tempt me! However, reviewing what ‘we actually did buy, and the new label we managed to snafe, we left Harrogate with a sense of optimism that we'd not felt for the past 18 months or so. We'd been sensible, lucky, inspired and we'd socialised more in four days than we had in the year gone by. considered the whole trip a huge success, Abig but.. ‘What | hadnt intended to pick up from Harrogate was Covid, but the universe had other plans for me and, by the time | was home, | was well, and truly consumed by the virus. Cue several positive tests, ten daysin bed anda loss of smell and taste that still stubbornly refuse to return. Too poorly to work but still able tothink, spent a lot of my time in isolation going over the days 'd been in Harrogate, and trying to decide if ithad been busy or not, to what level ithad been a success in terms of written-up sales, and where our industry looked like it was heading The complete lack of foreign buyers meant that the halls were certainly quieter than past years, but there seemed to be a huge representation of UK shops happily mingling, chatting away, and (although | know it's hard to imagine) clogging Up the bars, so it appeared to be very Happily this year | think Imanaged much business as usual. toswerve Whether or not all that particular this action translated bridal-shop- I'm reallly, really hoping into signed orders lady trap. In Re tim not sure, although part.owingto hat when we reconvene — most ofthe buyers havingbeen in London Excel, we'll find |speke tohad been there on more spending. than one some new avenues to There was a occasion, and definite feeling already having the t-shirt (and the dress, of course) In part itwas down to my manager's hawk-eye and clever boss-wrangling abilities, and in part because there was, if truth be known, very little sufficiently ‘cifferent’ to 12 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 explore and something to capture the imagination of both buyers and brides of making up for lost time’ as far as socialising was concemed, but were the wholesalers busy? My impression was that the stands that are traditionally inundated ‘were seeing business as usual, but that some of the European companieslooked quieter. | sincerely hope that this wasn't the case, but it's not unreasonable to wonder if there is a lite uncertainty about dealing with post-Brexit importing, VAT payments and customs clearing ‘So what's new? As faras new styles went, well. it ‘was a right pick-&-mix, with several different flavours on offer. Some designers had carried on where they'd left off and were offering more of the same; some had backed a more traditional look: some had gone for more colour. But no-one had really decided to go out ona limb and lead bridal into new pastures. This year. | think as an industry welllall get away with itas our new customers have been in the unusual position of taking their inspiration from real life brides who are only now managing to get married, and who are sporting designs purchased 18 months to three years ago - thus still very much in a backless lace sheath with a long train - but its not going to be long before well need some really frosh looks. There was a moment when we reopened that we thought brides ‘were returning to a more traditional look, but that demand seems now to have evaporated, and it's only a matter of time before we are going to have to roll out something special and new, So, did Harrogate deliver this year? Well, yes, sort of, but we need now to see change. I'm really, really hoping that, come next spring, when we all reconvene in London Excel, well find some new avenues to explore and something to capture the imagination of both buyers and brides. Ideally. these gowns will be different, yet wearable and, on a grey and rainy Essex morning, bring alittle magic to all, from a size 6 to a size 16. Because, ‘when itall boils down, that's our business, isn'tit? Delivering a touch of wonder with beautiful gowns...and I'm really not sure how many more lace fishtails can do the trick! CMe ae ML AO ONAN TOSS OU LL MeL Trader TO WORK WITH US, CONTACT: OC) ode eae ea fabulous team hav n of fascinating ete iene Ree ci cca Tees ene NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 13 elec ema een en nena ereHARROGATE BRIDAL ; SHOW... The numbers. add up beautifully The party started on Sunday night with t WEDDING TRADERNumber of catwalk shows: Four over two days. It was amazing to see the Gala Performance on the Sunday night return } with a full theatre and lots of excited buyers! Number of glasses of wine Number of models consumed: More than 2,000 ‘ glasses of wine and fizz... on stands: Over 150 buying can be thirsty work. Number of collections showing: Over 300 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 15Number of Covid tests sorted for visitors: Over 100. A special mention to the overseas exhibitors who had to organise their Day 2 Covid tests, and to the Amsale ladies who had to drive to Leeds when their postal ones did not show up! Number of visitors and from where: Around 4,000, mainly UK, but also Irish and Scandinavian retailers, and one from Lithuania! Late nights because orders were still being written: The show didn't close until nearly 7pm on Monday as business continued. I6 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 202Secovd Opinion a Putting aside all our Covid fears, Harrogate happened! he first It's been an eternity, and finally we eh \ / morning, _ were back together. We survived! i as long Getting our Covid passports ready queues _to be inspected, some of us with FORRGd, it was so lovely masks in hand, we lined up, got our tose people chatting excitedly, so lanyards, showed absolutely no-one glad tobe back, eager tosee what —_our proof of vaccinations, put our ‘was on offer, and thankful to meet up masks away, and got on with doing with our friends and colleagues again. Harrogate. It was business as usual, Ib + WEDDING TRADER » NOVEMBER/DECEMGER 2021 Jtactually happened, and it was bloomin’ brilliant to. be back. Sue Lovell enjoyed almost every mintule Covid be dammed Itfelt liberating, even exhilarating to be back in the beautiful world of bridal, where hugs and kisses have been alien for so long, and a squeeze from a bridal shop comrade in arms felt good. It felt ike home. For a few glorious hours, that rolled into a few days, the Covidthreat that has dominated our lives for so lang, didnt seem to exist. Bars and restaurants were busy: we ate, laughed and were merry. We have learned to live with it, adapt our daily routines, and although we are still navigating the impact of Covid, we have to look to the future. Shining The bright lights and glorious stands were just what we needed to see. After two tough seasons, we wanted sparkle, because as an industry, we need to sparkle. This industry needs to exude excitement, inject joyful anticipation into our shops, because after almost two years of uncertainty, itis time to shine, Brides are ready to plan, and. ‘whether they want a sophisticated understated dress, or a dazzling statement gown, the one thing every bride has in common is that they want an experience - to try on and to enjoy and to bring the focus back to her, to the wedding day, and to the dress, (Our shops are going to be beacons of light, glittering and gorgeous and full of positivity. The gowns on offer are definitely meeting the wants and needs of tomorrow's brides. They are Joyful. they are fabulous and they are a clear signal that weddings are back, bold and bright and to be celebrated, Forward-thinking I particularly loved how some designers are embracing sustainability and are looking into how we can reduce waste, Does a dress really need four labels, can we recycle more elements, are there ways less water can be used in producing the materials we need to create a dress? For designers to take their responsibilities to both the environment and consumer is so encouraging. Looking ahead, rather than just filling an immediate or shortsighted need, is where we all, need to be heading, Thinking of how we can adapt to the environmental changes that consumers will be demanding is how we stay fresh and. relevant. We have to be innovative, creative and lead the way; if we don't, we will just become a follower. We need to know where we are heading, find ways of getting there, and invest in the future of this industry. Seeing sustainability in an industry renowned for its ‘one day’ use is inspiring, and needs to become the rule, not the exception. Propress handheld steamers with the power of bigger machines will both reduce running costs, and help eliminate virus, Especially useful when we are dealing with one dress that needs a steam. Keeping an eye on the carbon footprint without compromising on quality can be found in many Obviously, suppliers and buyers are all looking to the future with confidence. We all understand that we have to ‘work together to make this happen. We plan for success, and we deal with disappointment, ‘There have been some major supply issues this year. with bridesmaids and Suits being affected in particular. To get a call from a supplier to say that ‘what was ordered in plenty of time. is. now net going to be delivered at all. is, like a physical punch in the stomach ‘Someone on the end of the phone ‘may hear our anguish, but they cannot Possibly know what its like to detiver that news to a bridal / grooms party face to face. As shop owners, we are expected tohavea Plan B, we are expected to have an answer, and we are expected torefund and compensate when we can't offer either. So owners have worked together. and begged, borrowed, swapped and sobbed into our pillows at night to find a solution, because no one wants to leta customer down. But sometimes there is no alternative, other than Learn the lessons from 2020/21 - order early, sell from stock, ensure terms and conditions are very clear, and try to prepare for every eventuality to offer a sincere apology and a full refund. That damages our reputation, our confidence and our cash flow forecasts. We have to restore that confidence, Learning lessons | personally was disappointed to see a lack of suit hire companies exhibiting at Harrogate this year: that doesn't instill confidence going forward, But Iwas also pleasantly surprised to see other companies that have let down so many shops and their brides. They knew they havea lot of very disappointed and angry customers, bbut they came anyway. and faced the criticism, and also showed that they were planning for the future, and that. says something Because all of us, whether supplier or stockist, have faced unforeseen problems, These are not normal times, and | think we can all appreciate that sometimes there is absolutely nothing that can be done to avoid a terrible situation. Covid happens. But facing up to that, acknowledging that there have been supply issues and reassuring customers that steps are being taken to ensure this won't happen next year = well that in itself is commendable. You can't do that if you don't show up! ‘And | gett It costsa lot to be an exhibitor, to fund and staff a stand, and businesses have been hit hard, but confidence in certain sectors thas been rocked, and needs to be restored, Accountability. explanations and acknowledgments that there have been serious issues. a lack of communication anda lack of an understanding of how shops and their customers have been affected, both with damage to reputation as well as financial damage. Apologies and re-assurance that lessons have been learned - that is what is needed. NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 19Many shops have had to refund huge amounts, and have had very hard and upsetting conversations with distraught and often furious customers, and that has devastating effects, and lam net convinced that this is fully understood by some suppliers. IFthey were there, perhaps | ‘could have asked them. So while this year HBS was a huge ‘success for everyone - Im sure, it certainly fett a triumphant return - we do have to remain both positive and cautious. Boris has not given us huge ‘confidence that further lockdowns will not take place over the winter months ‘We have to move on, adapt and have a few Plan Bs, Cs and Ds up our sleeves. ‘We have to have confidence, in both supplier and customer, we have to trustin the economy, that we will be able to trade fully. We have to buy and look to the future, because right now that’s all we've got. If we stop buying, itwe hold of for another year, there won't be the choice for our customer. We will limit our own possibilities, and in turn create further issues. Communication is vital Social media posts from across the industry have been incredible, showing our customers that we are here, excited and prepared for another year of uncertainty with confidence. We are better prepared. We have shown up, stepped up and Fdup at times, but not without taking responsibility, learning and educating ourselves, Covid is here to stay, many of us brought it home from Harrogate. It will now inevitably spread through families and staff again, weddings are still being cancelled because ofit, people are still getting sick, and we still haven't quite got our heads around how to stop the spread But what we can dois learn all the lessons from 2020/21 - order early, sell from stock, ensure terms and conditions are very clear, and try 20 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 to prepare for every eventuality. It's exhausting, but we now know that ‘when we are in a crisis, we can turn to our industry colleagues, and we will find a way, an alternative or, ifnothing else, a shoulder. Mask wearing, social distancing, hand sanitising that has to be part of our daily life for a while yet. We owe itto our customers to keep them safe and protect them and their day. as muchas we can | didn't live up to that example uring at the show. I wasn't thinking about Covid at all once | walked through the doors. It was just a thrill to bbe back, to hug my friends, to laugh ‘out loud, to drink to eat and be normal for once It felt comfortable, natural ‘and good to think about buying, rather than masks and the miseries of Covid, But as my Mum used to say, on more occasions than should have been necessary (I was obviously a very slow learner). ‘you won't get out of this mess with that attitude, lady” and we won't, not yet.EMMA HARTLEY EMMA HARTLEY BRIDALWEAR 2. Meeting up with our wonderful reps and designers who greeted us with hugs and Prosecco, Team Emma Hartley together for the first time in months. Those girls had me in hysterics all day. During lunch they told me how appreciated they allfolt, and | told them how much their support had helped me during the past 18 months. This led to a lovely spontaneous group hug, which was a very cial moment. Being VIPs, it was so nice to be able to take a break whenever we needed and the refreshments were very much appreciated 4, We found a stunning jumpsuit on Casablanca Bridal, which we are super excited about. (BL375 Willow ) 5 At Randy Fenoli, we found and loved Charlie, with its, detachable ethereal cape. 6 Nicola Anne excelled herself with a gorgeous range ofjackets and overskirts, We absolutely loved the Impulsive shrug and Francie skirt 7. Also at Nicola Anne, we couldn't resist the gorgeous dress appropriately called Bohemia, It had the dreamiest detachable sleeves and we think our brides are going to fall head over heels in love. 8 We loved the new designs from The Empty box, and were starry eyed over the new solar design 9 My giits love hair accessories and couldnt resist, trying them all on! We chose some stunners from Richards Designs, CP367 and CP 359 stood out as, perfect to match the dresses we had ordered. 10 The drinks reception. Chatting to our industry ‘chums before the fabulous fashion show was the perfect end to a very enjoyable and successful buying trip HARROGATE HIGHLIGHTS We asked five retailers who regularly contribute to Wedding Trader what made this Harrogate Bridal Show truly special. This is what they had to say.. 22 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMER 202CHRISTINE SKILTON LOVE YOU FOREVER 1 Taking part in the Bridal Buyer's Advice Clinic 2. The Maggie Sottero stand and fashion show. 4 Meeting up with Get Say members. 5 Meeting up in person rather than on Zoom. 6 The Harrogate hustle and bustle. 7. Sign-up of a very exciting, private label new designer, 8 Taking a picture with a McLaren supercar. 9. Seeing my daughter h catwalk skills. 20 Having a Five Guys’ burger for the frst time! whi SHARON McPHERSON ag OPUS ATELIER AND OPUS COUTURE g fun showing off her 1 Taking my staff to the runways, instead of making them happen We went to buy square necklines / tong sl and plain fabrics, Tick Meeting good friends, getting good advice, and sharing industry stories, with Prosecco. Finding the finer details for our brides. NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 23ANDREW PEARCE CREATIQUES 1 Daisy by Mark Lesley, with its little capped puff sleeve ‘and beautiful daisy lace. Sleeves are going to be big next season, \Winnie from the Rebecca Ingram collection, a one- shouldered gown with soft lace beaded appliqués. Norivana by Sottero & Midgley, incredible in black, ivory and nude. the ultimate in a statement gown ‘Andrea by Eliza Jane Howell..the beadwork on this gownis insane, Meeting up with friends, of course - it was lovely ‘seeing all the members of the RBA at their drinks event, after months of seeing so many of them ‘on Zoom. Saying hello to Hayley from the Bridal Collection and Becky from Bromley Brides The bespoke hangers from Hanger World ~ we've just to count how many we need, and we shall be placing ‘Twilight new headpieces and veils Meeting David Emanuel. We had a very long chat with him about bridal: such an interesting man to talk to He signed my Diana book, and | was very touched, that he did, ‘The only thing we didn't have time for was to go round the show. it was a fleeting visit, but it was good to be boack 10Can | also say a big thank you to Jenny and Kirsty from, Maggie Sottero; they know why. SLEEVE STORY Daisy, from the Mark Lesley Fabulous, and asf only Eliza Jane Howell can doMARIA MUSGROVE THE PANTILES BRIDE 1 Texture: Lots of lovely 3d applique on skirts. We'd seen this with Suzanne Neville back in June and at Harrogate with Josus Peiro and with Amsale. Lovely appliqué on orgar very feminine and dreamy 2 Customisation: Many brides want to make changes to their gown eg longer/shorter train, and Maggie Sottero have recently introduced a personalisat programme and this was showcased at Harrogate, 3. Marina from Paul Zeni excels at her bespoke offering taking it one step further with changes in necklines, raising lowering the back and a full made to measure service. Awesome at her pricepoint and very reasonable prices for the changes making fora mark up even on changes, and yet still affordable for the bride. 4, Diversity: Many more plus sizes on offer particularly impressed with Bridal Collective. 5, Sleeves: Lots of them f lacy and long to floaty and ‘ull No brand springs to mind at Harrogate but the week after we were blown away by Sassi Holford's| ‘Love Conquers All 2022 collection showcased at her Fulham Ro: boutique ‘Square necklines: Jesus Peiro’s were standout square ecklines. to add to those seen with Suzanne Neville’s Nova collection, Second dresses: Bring it on. Let's sell two gowns the same bride, and not because she's gone off her first, or doesnt fit it after the Covid kilos, or the Lockdown Baby! 8 Amsale's Little White Dress collection had some great pieces retailing around £150 to £300. My ‘off button’ was that they sell online, so | took a rain check! {9 Veils: The longer and the more appliquéd the better and all adding to the average spend per bride! Richard JESUSPERO Novem ER/DECEMBER 2021 WEDDING TRADER PoTHE WEDDING TRADER GUIDE TO The Best Sellers Orders placed, delivery dates arranged - we checked out with the designers and manufacturers which gowns from their 2022 collections are the current stand-out winners ANGELA BIANCO. From the Soul Collection, style 1049, in chiffon and lace, with beautfuldetail on the bodice and tiny cap sleeves. UK sizes 6-28, plus sizes also available. Rob Bevington Agencies +44 (017852 990078 ‘monicalorettisoutlookcom DANIELA DIMARINO ‘Style 6360 from the Incanta collection features long detachable shoulder wings Also available witha plain tulle skirt. UK sizes 6-28, Rob Bevington Agencies +44 (017852 999079 monicalorettigoutlookcom 28 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 DIANE LEGRAND This flowing organza ballgown, style 7838 has cross-bodice pleating and a sparkling ‘bet. t comes in the palest pink. or ivory. Ukssizes 4-30, Helen Cooper +44 (077933 370825 wellconnectedagentagmaileomELLAROSA Pretty as a picture, style BES76, in English ret. with stretch lining, US sizes 2-28. Private Label by G 144 (on765 590262 contactapprivatelabetbyg co.uk GENERATION IV satin and organza, and an amazing cut Eloise, in satin and organza, UK sizes 6-28. Studio Ellis +44 (0120 8888 8833 infosstudioelis.co.uk ELYSEE EDITION Francoise, for gorgeous curves, in lace and tulle, with special detaling, UK sizes 20-36. Bridal Collective a4 1792 586615 infoabridal-collective.couk FREDABENNET ‘Austin sa strapless dress in Mikado, with pockets, With sequinned cardigan, Monaco. UK sizes 6-24, Freda Bennet 44 (on322 537741 helloafredabennetcouk KENNETH WINSTON Style 1934, in embroidered cotton lace, English net and satin with stretch ining US sizes 2-28 Private Label by G +44 (001765 530282 contactapprivatelabelbygcouk YOUR COUTURE BRIDAL From this brand new labels style LHPogi Inccrepe, with a soft net skirt and hand- bbeaded appliques. UK sizes 4-32 Richard Lil 144 (0) 787 351270 / 244 011423 876380 infoayourcouturebridaicom NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 29ENZOANI Love Chic and confident and every inch red Keeping it deliciously simply, and carpet glam, Rexane, in beaded Chantilly wonderfully elegant, sculpted Arlette, in lace. UK sizes 4-34 rmikado. UK sizes 4-34 Bridal Collective Bridal Collective +44 On7o2 58665 +44 (792 586615, Infoabridal-collectivecouk Infoatbridal-collective.co uk 30 ¢ WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMSER/DECEMBER 2021LE PAPILLON Orla, from Medeca’s Le Papilon collection, features curvy side cut outs with lace appliques overilusion net. US sizes 0-28 AB Agencies 144 (0204 534817, abagenciesltdaegmailcom MODECA CURVES: Pela isa real beauty, in beaded lace and tulle, wth plunge neck and flattering cross-over bodice. US sizes 28+ llusion panels, see-through lace and ‘Sparkling tulle make Nouk an undoubted ‘winner. US sizes 0-28, AB Agencies +44 (011204 534817 abagenciesttdagmailcom AB Agencies 44 (01204 534817 abagenciesitda@gmaiicom 5 DONNASALADO Faith saysit all High style, chie and Understated. Deep v-neck to the waist, with ilusion inset. In Mikado, UK sizes 8-22, ‘MASCARALONDON, Lace fichtall gown with illusion bodice sprinkled with floral appliques. Style MC311943, UK sizes 6-8. Mark Lesley 44 (0) 1621 784784 infoamarklesteycouk Danny Sau ‘+4aloi20 8965 1522 infoamascaratondon NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + StBADGLEY MISCHKA, Flynn mixes beaded 30 embroidered lace with beaded linear lace, glitter tulle andl chiffon, a perfect combination. UK sizes 4-34 Bridal Collective +44 (0h702 586615 Infoabridal-collectivecouk 32 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 ETOWLE Nathalie features floral, botanical and Chantilly laces and tulle. Feminine and romantic. UK sizes 4-34 Bridal Collective +44 (0hx792 586615, infoabridal-collective.coukMIKAELLA Crepe and Mikaela lace, style 2380, with its plunging neckline and split skit. UK sizes 6-26, Marie Murphy-Campion +44 (017881 630802, mariesipalomablancacom PALOMA BLANCA Style 4977, in mikado, has a full circle srt with pockets, and covered buttons. UK sizes 6-26, Marie Murphy-Campion 144 (017881 630801 mariegipalomablancacom DANIELLE COUTURE 1088, soft lace fishtail dress Also avallable in blush, sand and Champagne Ukssizes 6-32, Phoenix Gowns 44 (017792 466656 Inforphoenixgowns.couk PHOENIXGOWNS PH0077, an off-the-shoulder ballgown with soft fauna lace detail and layered train, UK sizes 6-32, Phoenix Gowns +44 (017792 466656 infoaphoenigowns.couk ENVY BY PHOENIX PH8039 has a beaded bodice, full A-line tulle skirt and soft utr sleeves. UK sizes 16-34 Phoenix Gowns 44 (017792 466656 infoapphoenixgowns co.uk MONICA LORETT “The square neckline and long puff sleeves that are setting new trends Style 8201, in ccomes in stretch jersey, and UK sizes 6-28. Rob Bevington Agencies +44 (007852 999079 ‘monicalorettigoutlookcom NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 33ukmarketingamorilee.com M+ WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 202RANDY FENOLI BRIDAL, Chloe brings together sharp cuts and oversized bows to make real high- fashion statement. US sizes 0-28, AB Agencies +44 (1204 534817 abagenciesitdegmailcom There ate hints of blooms throughout the collection and nowhere more evident than in Paloma, where sheer comes fst. UK sizes2-32 Kelly Weaver/Chiis Bush +44 (1527 832373 salesawatters.com SANYUKTASHRESTHA From the Vegan Dream Collection comes. Eaiga, in vegan organic lace, chiffon andl bamboo. UK sizes 618. Sanyukta Shrestha +44 (0) 160 7588 507 Infossanyuktashrestha com WILLOwBY Top Renae, and skirt inka, in an amazing, shade - dusky hibiscus, Romantic sleeves and corded lace are highlights here. US sizes 0-22. Kelly Weaver/Chvis Bush +44 (13527 832373 salesawatterscom NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + WATTERS Pearland sequin beading feature on Vivianne, and exaggerated puff-shaulder sleeves demand attention. US sizes 0-22. Kelly Weaver/Chels Bush 44 (01527 832: salesavatter LILLIAN WEST Bows, plunging V-neck, illusion bodice, modern lace. 2D appliques, sparkle, low back - these all feature in style 66012 UK sizes 4-34 Justin Alexander +44 (01908 615599 info-ukajustinalexandercomROMANTICA Classic ballgown in tlle with beaded la -ctheart neckline with cenquiriesromanticaofdevon couk 46 + WEDDING TRADER JENNIFER WREN Fitand fare style J ine, illusion la er straps Jennifer Wren ofdevon.coukUBELLE abagenciesltca gmailcom NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 37RONALD JOYCE Felicia, style 69652 from the Sicllan Sun Collection is in tulle with lace appliques and horsehair edging, UK sizes 6-30. Ronald Joyce UK +44 (On636 503483, enquiriesronalgjoyce.com 38 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 SPECIAL DAY Style C21756 is from the Claddagh collection, and features a beaded lace bodice and chiffon skit. UK sizes 6-36. Special Day +9531 8665882 infoaspecialday-irelandcom‘TRUE BRIDE Barcelona in tulle and glitter tulle, wth hhand-beaded shoulder straps and narrow hand-beaded belt of chunky pearls and crystals. UK sizes 6-36 True Bride +44 (011273 728637 enquiriesatruebridecouk SOPHIA TOLL! Stretch Mikado, style Yi2237, with detachable of-the-shoulder straps, and an optional overskirt UK sizes 6-32. Mon Cheri Bridals| +44 (01823 674908 lenquiriesamoncherbridals co.uk NICKY FLYNN cheme is what the name suggests, bridal glam with a bohemian twist. Beaded lace, Sequined over-lace, and a body-curving silhouette. UK sizes 6-36. Nicky Flynn +44 01273 728637 enquiriesixtruebride.couk MARTIN THORNBURG Mixing the classic with the contemporary, Style 122241 has an illusion back with lace- trimmed keyhole detailing. UK sizes 6-32. Mon Chet Bridals| +44 (0823 674908 enquiriesamoncheribridals;couk ‘TRUE CURVES Softly-draped tulle, lace appliqués amd a detachable cape are the special features (of Rhodes. from this exceptional plus-size collection. UK sizes 18-36. “True Curves a4 (01273 728637 lenquitiesatruebride.couk SILHOUETTE Meet Bella-Marie, a beautifully shaped ‘Aine in glistening tulle with an illusion Veneckline. UK sizes 18-34 Romantica +44 0n823 674412 cenguiriesaromanticaofdevon.co.uk NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 39Emma, a whole new career - what brought it about? Having been in bridal retail for 25 years as the owner of a busy city Centre shop in Cambridge, and now visiting shops around the UK asa Wedding Shop Consultant, | understand the constant hard work. that goes into creating unique and ‘magical bridal experiences that brides ‘want to share, post and shout about Over the years | managed to really fine-tune the selection of designers, that excited our customer base while sharing our values as a business, which is how | got to know the ‘amazing and supportive Moritee team, loved my years as a bridal retailer but also very much enjoyed time away from the shop working closely with other businesses and the BA fashion students at Cambridge University Although the decision to solely focus on training and consultancy was a hard one to make, the offer to become part of the Morilee family couldn't have happened at a more perfect time. What help are you able to bring toyour retailers - what can they expect from you? ‘The support Morilee offers its stockists is on several levels and usually starts with a ‘get-to-know-you' phone cal. a preliminary chat to see ‘what we can offer that would best Crossing Over Who better to advise a supplier about dealing with their stockists, than a highly-successful retailer? We caught up with Morilee’s newest member of the famil Emma Arnold, who has joined the UK team as Retail Development Consultant suit a business and its team. At this, stage, we will decide whether to begin with some fun product knowledge and sales training for the sales team, or an ‘owner visit. The latter prioritises what has to be at the top of every retailer's Uist, which is to ask the question: ‘Am | getting the maximum retum possible from the collections | have invested in? Ifnot. why not and how do | bridge that gap Ordering samples is just one part of the complex equation that, once calculated correctly, will equal healthy returns and strong profitability. Morilee caters for all brides - | love how broad the company's customer reach is - yet by fully understanding its collections 40 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 and targeted merchandising, shops can also use this diversity to drive their ‘own USP. Our training starts with how to get enough ready-to-purchase brides walking through the doors, and encouraging past customers to become advocates for your boutique. Together we look at the customer journey and address any pressure points along the way, while highlighting potential areas for growth and increased margins. What are the main challenges facing your stores? Its been a great start to the training programme and fantastic to see shops\isited fired up and motivated, ready to ‘maximise on the predicted increase in weddings forecast for 2022. Challenges vary, but often come back to time management, and knowing what to prioritise next when there barely seems enough hours in the day. As owners, we didn't stop, with many working all the hours under the sun while most staff were on furlough, to ‘make sure that the business transition ‘out of lockelown was as smooth as possible. Stopping for a few hours and. focusing on team training has really helped. The productivity of less- experienced staf will increase, and there will be a greater level of understanding from your staff on how, asa team, they can be an integral part of a growing business with clear goals. ‘What do you think the main issues stores will have moving into 2022? Functionality. Shops need to look now at their systems, capacity and AMORILEE HIT telling white recasing potent Deborah te ee eee ee tyson Bas east eoein ys ee eae reaaee watstoand and Bie We cfeceTocre athe) | Ronswia-sdged a plan needs to be put in place now hem. RRP £1900 (again something we are more than happy to help our stockists with) that will allow retailers to focus on driving new sales forward and ensuring a healthy 2023, while offering top notch service to existing brides Having said that, the issues and pressure points shops are facing are always unique to their specific business, which is why we, as a supplier, believe indoing our best to support and understand our resilient and highly valued independent stockists Is there was one piece of advice you would give to stores right now, what would it be? People buy from People. Don't just be a business - | can't emphasise this message enough and again..its all part ofthe Morilee training! NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 41' Mn, elm, ca mit PURE BRIDALb- J Letter from America Well poised for the next stage, that’s the view of Peter Grimes of VOWS magazine, who is seeing areal change for the better Uthe advice we've been hearing (and have repeatedly told ourselves) has served us well through those dark days of the past 18 months, regardless of whether our boutique's location is in the US or the UK.. advice and actions that will now sustain us. as we confront the brighter days of incraased store traffic and sales against the dark reality of shortages, shipping delays and multiple price increases. In the US as in the UK. actions ‘were taken and advice followed that resulted in expanding the resilience in ourselves and in all those we lead and love, Steps such as: + Trusting in ourselves and monitoring our processes * Concentrating on the ‘trees’ instead of the ‘forest + Giving our best every moment and through every interaction with staff and client + Ignoring those debilitating ‘what if 44 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 voices that do nothing but paralyze + Expressing gratitude when we might have been able to see what we were thankful for + Rejuvenating our enthusiasm for what we do and haw we do it In addition to attitude and perspective, the steps many boutiques have taken this season will carry them through to the next + Continually re-evaluating off-the- rack merchandising programmes * Concentrating on sellable styles by buying in multiples of sizes and pieces + Pursuing vendors with in-stock inventory + Passing through increases in shipping fees and manufacturer pricesAnd there are two additional factors for which to be grateful: 1. The issues we continue to face, address and react to are not unique to ‘our industry, nor any specific segment oft, Virtually every ‘The conclusions Every research paper studying the impact of COVID-19 and its variants on consumer attitudes and spending presents a picture of bridal retail done well: Today's consumer wants business worldwide and expects is facing similar ahuman headwinds, . connection, though some more In-person shopping cigitalty debilitating than offers real-life touch-_ enhanced ‘thers. that addresses Additionally, and-feel experiences and satisfies, ‘widespread their individual near-saturation media coverage has increased every consumer's awareness of these issues. especially Consequently, we now have a (mostly) understanding, though still nervous, bride who is more willing to listen to and follow our advice. and ‘who is less deterred by the costs of her gown and accessories. We will always have a smatl percentage of self-absorbed over-the- top brides who ‘don't want to hear it.’ which is certainly true here and now. For sanity sate, i's even more crucial to learn from the dificult, hard-to-service few, and not let them overshadow the understanding many who appreciate what you do. 2, Recent studies, reports and books from retail consultants and business- to-consumer marketers confirm what ‘we've known and focused on these past two years: bridal retail is uniquely positioned to provide exactly what. today’s post-COVID consumer wants and needs, that build deep customer relationships that simply can't be replicated online desires within memorable experience. ‘An example of the advice offered to retailers is from Shopify's Retail Blog, in which it announced that: "Were entering a new era for physical retail stores, and in-person shopping offers real-life touch-and-feel experiences that build deep customer relationship (and simply can't be replicated online)” It's specific ‘must dos'for bricks and mortar stores reads like a blueprint for bridal + Invest in store design + Create community hubs + Offer gift customisation and personalisation + Leverage one-to-one interactions + Make stores a sensory experience ‘Asa consequence, retail in general, whether brick and click, e-commerce only, ora hybrid of both. is embracing these researched conclusions. Digital. direct-to-consumer brands are rapidly expanding into physical environments, as the result of these changing consumer preferences, and due to increasing costs of online customer acquisition Other signs + New physical stores are opening (both national chains and small single owner/operated. independents. = Amazon is expanding its physical store concept into larger department store-type settings + Luxury goods brands are ramping Up their physical ‘footprint’ both in number and in store presentation tomore effectively support their brand and deliver that personalised experience to ardent followers. And of special note All this activity, and surprisingly strong retail sales numbers in the US (as reported by the National Retail Federation), are happening against the headwinds of major supply chain disruptions caused by allack of shipping, warehousing and truck and rail capacity compounded by a shortage of labour across all categories and segments. My point is this: there are still difficult times ahead in a marketplace that appears to be changing daily, but by enthusiastically providing what you do best is precisely what your bride needs and wants. especially right now. ‘So keep smiling - It's proven to elevate mood, alleviate stress, reinforce resilience, and enable that great secret of life: enthusiasm, ‘As Norman Vincent Peale, best known for his work in popularising positive thinking, said: “There is a real ‘magic in enthusiasm. It spells the difference between mediocrity and accomplishment’ NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 45BRAV 1 unique event —a gala with catwalks, fashion and music i fountai back in the spotlight o bridal fashion 46 + WEDDING TRADER Sparkling ° offevent Mini 3 which the stunning coar teatd eet eee Pet ne Generalitat of Catal life’ following the dificult Yolaneris; Isabel Sanchi ding ‘The New Bi by the pand The Voila: R al of bringing Sala has prov >undin rena Pane: designer tion istina Tambor from the world will help the sector to ashion to contribute r rking with enthusi 1g the sector ng their work ding to Jesuis Diez Betriu, th Influencers, models and celebrities ner oF the G Barcelona has always been a magnet for names at the heart of the industry and those surro! WEDDING TRADERCrit) Cae) eee Ce ortant influencs an 24 mill ch as Mel pani Iles resenter Masco, M Barcelona has set newOUR KINDA TOWN Our kinda show ‘the National Bridal Market Chicago, the leading US tradeshow for bridal and occasionwear opened ils doors in August and added a full day on to its schedule to accommodate the visitors who couldn't wait to get back into the swing of things tthe National Bridal Market, Chicago this year, there was a real buzz after the pandemic period that brought a halt to all travelling for what ‘seemed lke an eternity, Attendees and exhibitors were heard to repeat the same comment throughout the show period - ‘lam so glad to see you. my friend!” More than 150 companies were in the not-so-windy city, the majority with multiple label portfolios. And in ‘excess of a greater-than-expected 52 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 3,000 retailers proved to bein the mood for an adventure into the latest designs for the season ahead, anda total buying experience. A package of daily ‘happenings’ contributed to the event, froma ‘welcome at the Mimosa bar, toa complimentary signature lunch, drinks breaks at the specialty coffee bar, the YOW's ice cream cart, and more. The Riverfront celebration, on the first day of the show. was the reunion everyone had been waiting for. Located on the MART's newlydesigned terrace - drinks and appetisers were served against a backdrop of the amazing Chicago skyline, and river view, Fun was in the air, the weather was perfection, and everyone was celebrating. and in good company. Exhibitors reported healthy orders across their collections and over the full four days. Proving to be real winners were unusual necklines, billowing sleeves, low backs, delicate beading, ribbon florals, and dramatic tiaras in every colour. Jewel tones and high-style black lace dresses were a highlight that grabbed and held attention ‘Occasionwear, including prom, social occasions, MOB, and quinceanera lines, pulled in big business, as retailer rails had been depleted over the past two years and shops were keen to build up thelr stock once again, and with the latest looks that consumers were demanding having had a taste of what was to come through the various spcial media chanels. New designers that exhibited for the first time at National Bridal Market Chicago included Tiscareno Bridal Couture, La Premiere, Ragazza Fashion, Kelly Faetinini and Blue Willow by Anne Barge. ‘The next National Bridal Market Chicago showing Fall 2022 collections, is scheduled to take place 33-15 March 2022. Visit www.nationalbridalmarket.com for regularly updated information NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 53Being part of a long-standing industry body has a huge number of advantages, and solid support is core to the proposition. Sharon McPherson talks RBA business k, so the Retail Bridalwear Association (RBA) has been around for a long time - 26 years to be precise. think we are the longest-serving bridal retail association out there, lam, however, delighted to report that we have consistently moved con from those early years..just as the industry itself has completely changed, so has the Association. And today more than ever, with all of our businesses constantly changing, so + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 the RBA has needed to consolidate its activities, and build on its offering to members We bridal business owners ~ and. that includes the volunteer Executive ‘Council (EC) members - are forever reinventing ourselves; we have to in order to stay one step ahead at all times. We recognise that its vital if we are to compete in the retail industry in this day and age, and te further encourage and stimulate growth and improvement in our sector. The past 28 months have proved that we never know what's coming next, and that we need to be ready to move with times. Like everyone else, the RBA have had to adapt to a new way of working, Ithas actually been amazing - not at alleasy, though - but out of adversity ‘comes innovation. opportunity and strength, and thats just for starters, Time well spent \We have used the past year and a half to set up new training programmes, new events, new discounts, new discussions, new ways of communication, new marketing, and many more new ways to support our members. It's all on our new website. One of the things Ihave appreciated most was our once a month members’ Zoom meeting, My businesses are in ‘Scotland and it has kept me in touch with the rest of the industry around. Britain. It was great to actually hear this from some more of our members during the Harrogate Bridal Show Rob and Andrew Pearce from Creatiques, have been members of the RBA for the past seven years. They said “Asa long-standing bridal business, ‘we have felt the RBA support - from the advice from the legal team. to discussions with fellow bridal shop “Through this past year we have all experienced the highs and lows of our industry, but with our regular Zoom ‘meetings and support calls from other members, we have the knowledge that the RBA has our businessinterests and needs covered” For me, hearing this makes all the hard work the Association's EC puts in so very worthwhile, Looking ahead am also very excited for our next block of training coming up soon, ‘some for business owners and some for our staff We are covering many different subjects with new trainers who have a wealth of expertise in their own areas. We have also partnered with Wendy Riviera and her Do You Speak Bride team to provide free quarterly sessions, and we are jointly offering RBA members a substantial discount for the unlimited full DYSB training and resources. With that alone, the cost of my RBA membership is already covered, and that’s not including our established benefits of: Free legal advice Brides Assurance Scheme "RBA Times bi-monthly newsletter “Terms and conditions pro forma "HR resource pack Health and Safety resource pack “Recruitment resource pack ‘Access to the Kickstart Scheme Discounted shop insurance, gown bags, quality printina payroll management, training days, conference weekends, online training I think you will have realised by now that | ama fan. Although | sit on the EC, lam very aware that lam not an expert on everything ~ none of us are - but as a group, our collective years of experience are off the scale, and this, resource is the one | use most of all. Ihave met wonderful business owners, seen the most encouraging quality of service and provision, and made friends for life. Best of all, we all understand that we are a part of the fashion retail industry thatis ke no other. and just, as Andrew said, I, too, know that the RBA has our businesses covered, FUN WEDDING FACTS, FROM RBALTD.ORG.UK + The largest wedding attendance was a Jewish wedding in Jerusalem in 1993, where 30,000 people attended. + ‘The most expensive wedding was the one held in a purpose-built stadium in Dubai for a Sheik’s son. The wedding cost over £22 million. + The longest wedding dress train was found in Germany, it measured over 515 feet. ‘* Tuck a sugar cube into your glove — according to Greek culture, the sugar will sweeten your union. + Rain on your wedding day is actually considered good luck, according to Hindu tradition! + For good luck, Egyptian women pinch the bride on her wedding day. Ouch! * Peas are thrown at Czech newlyweds instead of rice. * A Swedish bride puts a silver coin from her father and a gold coin from her mother in each shoe to ensure that she'll never do without. + A Finnish bride traditionally went door-to-door collecting gifts in a pillowcase, accompanied by an older married man who represented long marriage. + Moroccan women take a milk bath to purify themselves before their wedding ceremony. * In Holland, a pine tree can be planced outside the newlyweds’ home as a symbol of fertility and luck. + Engagement and wedding rings are worn on the fourth finger of the left hand because it was once thought that a vein in that finger led directly to the heart. + Diamonds set in gold or silver became popular as betrothal rings among wealthy Venetians toward the end of the 15th century. * Snake rings dotted with ruby eyes were popular wedding bands in Victorian England — the coils winding into a circle symbolized eternity. * Queen Victoria started the Western world’s white wedding dress trend in 1840 — before then, brides simply wore their best dress. + In Japan, white was always the color of choice for bridal ensembles -long before Queen Victoria popularized it in the Western world. + In Asia, wearing robes with embroidered cranes symbolizes fidelity for the length of a marriage. * In Korea, brides don bright hues of red and yellow to take their vows. * Ancient Greeks and Romans thought the veil protected the bride from evil spirits. Brides have worn veils ever since. + The “something blue” in a bridal ensemble symbolizes purity, fidelity, and love. + The tradition of a wedding cake comes from ancient Rome, where revelers broke a loaf of bread over a bride's head for fertility’ sake. + The custom of tiered cakes emerged from a game where the bride and groom attempted to kiss over an ever-higher cake without knocking it over. + Queen Victoria's wedding cake weighed a whopping 300 pounds. + Stag parties were first held by ancient Spartan soldiers, who kissed their bachelor days goodbye with a raucous party. NOVEMBER/DEGEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER + 55THE WEDDING TRADER PORTFOLIO The best of Bobo This is a story that gets better and better with each chapter as designers become increasingly adventurous with cuts and embellishments and Fabric manufacturers come up with new ideas KELSEY ROSE Style’ Sicily 50407 Fabric: Chifon and lace Colour: Ivory Special features: Flutter sleeve, tie back tacsel detal, flattering pleats overthe tummy Size range: UK 6-22 RP. £749 T-+4g (0120 8888 8833 E infoastudioelis couk ‘www kelseyrose.co.ukE info wwwadishlome.comMORILEE Style Clara 5926 Fabric: Lace and net Colour: lvory/Champagne/heney. vory/porcelain Special features Laced-up corset ‘back Size range: UK 2-30 SS RRP. £1300 Tr+44 (01636 700860 € ukmarketingamorizecom 4 hitps://ukmorilee.com/ fA LNoven ETERNITY Style: 22 collection Fabric: Venics Free To Be Me lace, chiffon and tulle Colour: lwory/aud Special features: Banded illusion back Removeable off- the shoulder sle Size range: US 0-30 RRP: POA E-infoweternitybridal.couk ‘wwrw.eternitybridalco.uk ER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADERRONALD JOYCE Style: Veni 18558 Fabri: Lace, satin, net Colour: Ivory Special features: Off-the-shoulder three-quarter length flared sleeves Size range: UK 6-30 RRP: £3,000 Tr4a (0) 1636 593483 E:enquiriesronaldjoyce.com ‘www.ronaldjoyce.com NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER +‘SOPHIA TOLLI Style: ¥22174 Fabric: Tulle and la 7olush: ivory, white the-sh with deticate lace falling into a floaty tulle skirt Size range: UK 6-32 RRP. £3,509 1636 5934 E-enquiries@moncheribrida ‘wrww.moncheribridals.com= RONALD JOYCE UNITED KINGDOMee ‘ Time For Change With a complete brand refresh, Ellie Sanderson is set to face the future of bridal retail head-on — and in her own, inimitable style. Sarah Dawson reports G4 + WEDDING TRADER NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2 Wie Sanderson revealed the brand's beautiful new look in October. Here, we chat with Ellie and Jonathan Harris, the Creative Director of Harrisment Design & Branding, who helped bring Ellie's vision to life, about how the brand has evolved, and what the future holds for bridal retailers. What prompted the decision to re-brand Ellie Sanderson? ES: A number of things came into play. Firstly, lam hugely critical of everything we do and always have been, so during the third lockdown Thad a moment when | was staring ‘at my logo and I fett ito longer represented what we stand for as | abusiness. | feltit didn't have a big ‘enough personality ~ somehow the block capitals felt anonymous and impersonal. I's hard to put it into ‘words, but | instinctively knew it was time for change and time to move forward. Owning this well-known brand and its legacy means lam constantly pushing forward, not only in aesthetics, but in products and processes, All change! Why did you feel now was the time for change? JH: Successful brands are constantly evolving; they never stand still They are always relevant and connected to their customers, as well.as the world around them, ‘Sometimes change is responsive, in Ellie's case it's often to lead, Over the past few years, there have been a raft of changes to the ‘world we live in - some due to the pandemic and Brexit, others longer inthe making, This is a great moment to recognise and signal how well the Ellie Sanderson brand has responded to these challlenges. ‘What's the idea behind the re-brand and new look? ES: | wanted to mark the start of the next chapter; Covid. 2020 was ‘a tumultuous time for us all in this, industry and things will never be the same again. They will be similar, but different, and I felt we needed to be, too. Similar but different: similar but better: similar but fresher. I worked for months with Harrisment Design & Branding and Jonathan really got under the skin of my business. He took time to listen to what was driving my desire for change: he spent time assessing my feelings about font, look, colours and The brand tool kit we now haveis personal and far reaching and so many ideas have come from it!JH: It's all inspired by energy, positivity, inclusion and engagement ~ as well as remaining classy and fabulous! We want to celebrate the work done by staff and supporters of Ellie Sanderson, maintaining their poise, hope and creativity, both recently and throughout the lifetime of the brand. Never letting their heads go down, always being exible and with acan-do attitude. Always human, ‘empathetic and with a sense of humour. Forward looking, but pen to new ideas and respectful of the old traditions, How would you describe Ellie ‘Sanderson's new look and new direction? ES: feelit's personal - ithas my signature on it after all! | think the new look epitomises our hands-on approach to client care and supplier relations. | feel it shows my name is above the door and lam behind the door It's got a face and it's trustworthy, open and honest, Just like us, The timing of the rebrand was not a happy accident - it's not just because we are coming out the other side of the pandemic, but also because we have properly launched ‘our Woodstock business. The original launch was under the Covid cloud, and my poor Woodstock studio ‘was shut down after three months because of this. So, now it's time to shout about it! We have a vastly different collection in the Woodstock studio to our Beaconsfield studia, Woodstock is more relaxed and the labels in there are not big national brands, but significant brands to watch, like Eva Lendel, Anna Kara and Rish. They are blended with our usual favourites, including Suzanne Neville and Jesus Peiro, and work perfectly. JH: The Ellie Sanderson new look has ‘energy and movement: it's informal and fluid. without losing its elegance. ‘The style reflects Ellie's willingness to have her vision and values front and centre. thas a certain NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 + WEDDING TRADER +couture confidence, reflecting Ellie Sanderson's stature within the bridal sphere. There's also a playfulness, reminding us that the buying of a wedding dress is a time of, celebration and joy, along with a hint of indulgence. ‘What does the future of wedding dress shopping look like and how is. Ellie Sanderson going to embrace it? JH: Ellie Sanderson will embrace it by staying true to its core values. On the face of it overall, the economic trends suggest that, sadly, bridal shops will diminish in number. The exodus to online, tess in people's pockets and the escalating cost of premises, all paint a pretty gloomy picture. Ellie Sanderson is already navigating a different course. They look at the bride's journey beyond their first appointment. The brand is so much more than simply shifting dresses, It's about creating memories for the bride, supporting with honest advice when requested. offering options, taking the time to get to know her, her goals and ambitions for her big day. ‘We know that online will generate ideas and enthusiasm and Ellie ‘Sanderson wants to encourage that, especially as its online presence is incredibly rich and visual. Elie ‘Sanderson wants brides to come along with their Pinterest boards, or whatever, and use that as a springboard into an appointment. Equally, Ellie Sanderson prides itself on its fashion knowledge and aesthetic sensibilities, so if you come totthemas a blank canvas, they can help explore the collections together. ‘They're in constant conversation with designers, influencers, Photographers, stylists and florists across the industry, which allows them to curate their collections and innovate their services every year. Sitting in front of a screen generates awareness, excitement and anticipation, The more of the Ellie Sanderson brand you experience, the more memories you will make. ‘The elements that the digital world and other retailers can't provide are the personal attention, sympathetic appreciation, creative spark and outstanding levels of tailored service. ‘The goalis to build personal connections with the bride, to make the dress-finding process unforgettable and emotionally fulfiling. To make her into the bride she dreams of, giving her confidence and presence, Choosing a top bridal boutique is more than a skip-and-click to PayPal it's one of the longest and most personal relationships you'll have throughout your wedding preparations. Ellie Sanderson's goal is to ensure it remains fabulous throughout and beyond, ‘What lessons have you learnt about the business over recent years and how are these going to be worked into the brand, moving forward? ES: A huge number of lessons have been learned in the past few years, and more will be learned in the years tocome, We will continue to work with suppliers who supported us through the past 20 months, those who 66 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 genuinely listen to our feedback land those who want solid brand partnerships, | don't want to work with labels that saturate the market-place until there isa glut of their product, and that product becomes devalued and over- available. In all honesty, | run from suppliers who rely on minimums to keep their business models working, and instead gravitate to those who sell great product that's exclusive and focus on selling repeats. work with suppliers where I can geta solid return on my investment so that | am happy to step up and invest into the next collection. It's a positive cycle of business achievement. The bridal industry is on the cusp of being beyond saturated with mass- produced product and these dresses are clogging up rails everywhere. The number of dresses that end up in Land fill sites annually frightens me, and we must be more accountable for that. ‘We will remain solid lovers of British design and will continue to blend this with great new worid class labels, Harrisment Design & Branding wwwharrismentcoukDon U muss an issue! Subscribe the the Wedding Trader newsletter and keep fully up to date with the latest news, articles, magazines and discussions. Trader : = ===5 - FOLLOW US BRITISH ON SOCIAL FASHION MEDIA, TOO! © @WeddingTraderUK @ @WeddingTraderMag j @ weddingtrader BRITISH FASHION COUNCILWow! Entering Harrogate on the Sunday morning was like time travelling; we stepped through the door and the past 18 months of Covid chaos were completely eradicated up with crazy schemes and great ideas furth n the line we work on. Is like a bluesky meeting room in a Smart car. (My Micra Us up there for years through thick and thin, snow, wind. rain, petrol shortages, 'o hing fire in front of 68 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER,errr {knew it was time to say goodbye, hence the Smart car and the start of anew era) twas nice to see that some things never change though. The drive-in sex shops on the side of Azare still there - they always make me wonder. and laugh! And they act as a road marker, we know we don't have long to go before we hit beautiful Harrogate. Hello bridal world What a delight to be back in the realm of bridal. As I don't have to create bridal pages anymore, just Instagram, style shoots, consultancy work and trendwatch, in theory it allowed me time to catch up with much-missed colleagues and friends. Instead of my usual of trying to catch up. photographing dresses and calling them in at the same time, So this overview represents the ramblings of a freelance stylist - well that was the plan - but the reality is more like the writings of a small over- excited child fitting from one stand to another, so delighted to see all the satin, silk sequins, lace and tulle, Oh how I've missed you.. | didn't realise how much until | started to walk. through the halls The actual exhibition was a lot busier than | had imagined, but luckily itMlowed well. Well done Wendy, and her team. And here are my highlights in no particular order and definitely no nil points here. Let's go. ‘The Eliza Jane Howell stand was, rammed, but | managed see some amazing beaded dresses, plus some lovely feathery pieces, and catch up ‘with Gill who's been working with a lot of secret celebrity clients both here and in Holly wood ~ it's so nice to have. a designer whose work is appreciated on the red carpet as well as the aisle. NOVEMBER/DEGEMBER 2021 ¢ WEDDING TRADER + 69For me it’s always been important that a designer has their ‘own handwriting and t you know what youre going to get with Eliza Jane Howell, And there's always a showstopper fit for any window or Strictly Come Dancing, | was really impressed with Donna Solado and Mark Lesley, their collections had some stunning new necklines and alot of crisp, fresh, ‘easy-to-wear styles - loved the Bridgerton-inspired lace dress, and the drama of V-back Mercado dress with a big bow. ttis a large collection bbut well put together and it flowed (| know. | witter on about ‘flowing’ butit is important that a line works and one part moves effortlessly into another, it makes you realise how much hard work goes into putting a stand and collection together) For me, it was nice to see a more compact bridesmaids range - | like to see the key colours ~_| think it helps to focus when you have less sometimes. (And yes, lam going through a house declutter at the moment - my goodness just how much stuff can a person gather? lam worried that | ‘am going to end up ona hoarding TV programme drowning under a sea of Gresses and knick knacks) Back to the Halls, Love Story Bridal was a new brand tome, very well priced, with simple shapes. The crépe ada nice madern vibe about it for the unfussy bride. | thought it was avery easy-to-like collection and | hope they do well. As always hada really good chat on the JLM stand (yes, we swapped pictures of cats dogs and caught up which was lovely), The reason why | couldn't be a great buyer was illustrated perfectly on this stand - | am drawn to dresses that sparkle and there was so much choice, | coulda't pick my favourite ten let alone two: think with my eyes and net with my head! So good luck to all buyers. you. have my respect. Lazaro’s dresses 70 + WEDDING TRADER + NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 twinkled and were beautifully cut, plenty of blush and cream choices too. I've always been a big fan of JLM because the pieces are so light and easy to pack. know I've only really dealt with models in the past, but these dresses do seem to suit most Girls and workin every destination. Ellis Bridals had a minimalist stand which | loved, because it showed off their new collection perfectly. | really ked their lace gowns ~ well, | liked the actual lace fabrics - they felt lux, and their big dresses with pockets are So easy to wear and look amazing. ig skirts should feature pockets, in my world that would be a law) This is a very sophisticated, elegant range, perfect for the modern bridal. The new collection seems much more focused and with its ‘own strong handwriting, Affordable luxury sumsit up for me and | tiked that itis a complete contrast to theirfun boho Kelsey Rose collection. Congratulations to James and the team for continuing a brand that has such heritage and moving it forward, It was a nice surprise to see that Amsale was over from the US, They brought their short dresses, which do amazingly well both on Instagram and in store, Their LWD (for that read Little White Dress) range is really successful in the US; the gowns are ata good price and it was nice to see plenty of UK stockists on their stand, Abig thumbs up from me was the main range including a wonderful satin dress with a daisy embellished tulle cape. Didn't get a chance to speak to Marguerite at Alan Hannah as she was busy with buyers, so | settled for ‘a quick chat with Alan himself. They were showing Mia Mia and AH, and have a great selection of separates which all inter-change perfectly. ‘One of the joys of having a UK- based designer house is that they can offer that personal touch, so if bride wants a different sleeve (why. you must ask, when there are already so many great sleeves?) itis doable, I'do love the off-the-shoulder jumpsuit and there are lots of interesting necklines, and flattering, ‘well cut dresses, with that Alan Hannah touch. Forme, it’s so important that adress moves well, {sal very lovely standing still, but you must be able to walk, dance, eat in your dress and AH uses beautiful fabrics that that feel and look special And I love satin-backed crepe. There's been alot of chatter about Madi Lane so it's rice to see it in the flesh 28 months on, light and easy- to-wear, with more structure thanits main Oz competitor but with the distinct Australian vibe. Evie Young is the slightly posher sister brand. The Bridal Collective (that's Enzoanietc in old money) was full of delicious sparkle and lace and | thought | discovered a new collection! It was only when | put my glasses on and got close up that | realised it was Enzoani- if you don't pay attention for a few months, lines get rebranded. They didn't have the whole collection at Harrogate, but what they they did have was exactly what you expect from them Glad to see Sanyukta Shrestha there, too. Her new collection is created without any animal products and are handmade in Nepal. She uses fabrics made from 100% bamboo, 100% organic cotton, luxe silky and floaty vegan eco-fibre, some even from the cellulose of wood pulp or recycled fibres. And they look fabulous too, not just for vegans. Rowley Hesselballe - great to see this new venture at Harrogate, looking special | first saw the collection at the press launch pre-Covid, and SSS 4 ‘wonderful news. they've survived! One of the founders has since got married - congratulations. The women who run this label all have great fashion credentials and have been working in the industry for years They came together and launched this label for the understated bride and bridesmaid who are fashion- forward, don't want to spend a fortune but do want something easy to wear and well cut. | like the collection a lot \We took that short but sharp walk up the very steep hill - we were out of exhibition practice or was it that we needed lunch? (Wagamama's vegan spare ribs delicious, but that was, later) Into the vaults of The Majestic on our way to Justin Alexander (he's engaged you know and designing a special dress) However, we got distracted again when we bumped into Walter, ex David Fielden and now at Savin London. David is no longer copen...he's retired now the shop's lease is up. I've always been a fan of Savin London, and it was lovely to see