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Decoding

chocolate mousses
Part II
The experiment

By
Ramon Morató

Collaboration
Scinnov (Scientific advice)
Six classic mousse recipes for assembling desserts

1. Chocolate bavarois 4. Ganache-based mousse


2. Crème anglaise-based mousse 5. Chocolate chiboust
3. Pâte à bombe-based mousse 6. Egg white-based mousse

Ramon Morató Scinnov


Creative Director Cacao Barry® Scientific advice 3
1. Chocolate bavarois
The main characteristic of the bavarois is that it is creamy, Basic recipe Usage
containing relatively little air and with a balanced flavour
between the chocolate and the crème anglaise, since the mousse 430 g Milk A bavarois is used in particular with
is not very rich in chocolate. 110 g Whipping cream (35% fat content) ingredients that provide subtle flavours.
For this reason, to stabilise it, it always needs a percentage of 110 g Egg yolks For assembling in desserts in which the
gelatine, giving it a crème caramel-like texture. 55 g Sugar mousse will be surrounded by a sponge,
Most classic bavarois are based on a high percentage of crème 1 u Vanilla pod as its stability after a few days is lower,
anglaise, ranging from 40 to 60%, to which gelatine, the chosen 10 g Gelatine sheets given it contains less couverture. The final
chocolate, and semi-whipped cream are added. 315 g Fleur de Cao™ dark couverture chocolate (70% cocoa) texture—semi-liquid—means desserts can
970 g Semi-whipped whipping cream (35% fat content) be assembled using a ladle.
It is not recommended for use in desserts
1. Create a crème anglaise by heating the milk, cream, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla pod that will be glazed.
together to 80/84°C.
2. Add the gelatine sheets, which have been previously soaked in cold water.
3. Emulsify the crème anglaise completely with the couverture.
4. Leave the base to cool to 25/26°C and then fold in the semi-whipped cream.

Since the bavarois contains a lower percentage of couverture than the other mousses, the
final temperature will be the lowest; ideally around 20 to 23°C.

Couverture (or
Gelatin chocolate)

80ºC / 84ºC

+ + Increased foam
volume (or
increased mousse
volume)

Proteins coagulate and Gelatin proteins gel Stabilization of the structure


thicken the preparation. little by little. by the gelification of gelatin
and the incorporation of
crystallized fat.

Sugar Crystallized fat


Water Gelatin
Egg protein Air
Fat Dry matter of cocoa

Flavour Texture Functionality

Cocoa Milk Egg Sweetness Aeration Creaminess In-mouth Colour Viscosity Stability
intensity notes flavour fusion

Chocolate bavarois • ••••• •• •• ••• •••• •••• • • ••

Decoding chocolate mousses Cacao Barry® Ramon Morató Scinnov


Part II. The experiment Creative Director Cacao Barry® Scientific advice 5
2. Crème anglaise-based mousse
The main characteristic of this type of mousse is that it is creamy, Basic recipe Usage
glutinous and contains relatively little air. It has a powerful, direct
chocolate flavour. 380 g Milk This mousse, together with the ganache-
100 g Whipping cream (35% fat content) based mousse, is very versatile. It is used
100 g Egg yolks in assembling all types of dessert. The
45 g Sugar final texture —semi-liquid— enables it
1 u Vanilla pod to be assembled with ladles. It has good
515 g Fleur de Cao™ dark couverture chocolate (70% cocoa) stability when refrigerated.
860 g Semi-whipped whipping cream (35% fat) It is the best for use in desserts that will
be glazed.
1. Create a crème anglaise by heating the milk, cream, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla pod
together to 80/84°C.
2. Emulsify the crème anglaise completely with the dark couverture.
3. Check the temperature of the mixture: it should be around 40 to 45°C. Finally, fold in
the whipped cream.

The final temperature of this mousse should be around 24 to 28°C, at most.

Emulsion
(couverture-crème anglaise)

80ºC / 84ºC

+ Increased foam
volume

Proteins coagulate and Emulsion Stabilization of the structure


thicken the preparation. by the incorporation of
crystallized fat.

Sugar
Water
Egg protein
Fat
Crystallized fat
Air
Dry matter of cocoa

Flavour Texture Functionality

Cocoa Milk Egg Sweetness Aeration Creaminess In-mouth Colour Viscosity Stability
intensity notes flavour fusion

Crème anglaise-based mousse ••••• ••• •• • • ••••• ••• ••• ••• •••••

Decoding chocolate mousses Cacao Barry® Ramon Morató Scinnov


Part II. The experiment Creative Director Cacao Barry® Scientific advice 7
3. Pâte à bombe-based mousse
The main characteristic of this mousse is its very airy and Basic recipe Usage
balanced chocolate and egg flavours.
646 g Pâte à bombe base This mousse can be used for all kinds of
1 un Vanilla pod dessert. The final texture is not liquid due
536 g Fleur de Cao™ dark couverture chocolate (70% cocoa) to the pâte à bombe. To assemble the
818 g Semi-whipped whipping cream (35% fat content) desserts, you can use a ladle or a piping
bag with a wide tip. It has good stability
1. Once the pâte à bombe has been beaten with the vanilla, leave it to cool to 25/30°C when refrigerated.
in the mixer while beating at medium speed.
2. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate at 50 to 55°C and whip the cream.
3. Mix a part of the cream with the warm couverture and emulsify.
4. Mix this base with the pâte à bombe and finally add the remaining
semi-whipped cream.

*Pâte à bombe base


270 g Egg yolks
228 g Eggs
210 g Invert sugar
140 g Water

1. Boil the water with the invert sugar.


2. Scald the egg and yolk mix with the syrup and heat as if it were a crème anglaise
until it starts to coagulate (around 80°C).
3. Weight out the required amount and start to beat immediately until it Sugar
forms ribbons.
Water
In this mousse type, since you cannot mix the couverture directly, as the different Egg protein
densities would affect the pâte à bombe, the correct temperature before mixing with Fat
the cream cannot be guaranteed. For that reason, you need to heat the couverture to a Crystallized fat
maximum temperature of around 50°C.
The final temperature of this mousse should be around 24 to 28°C. Air
Dry matter of cocoa

Incorporation of air
and stabilization by
egg proteins.
Emulsion (couverture-pâte Semi-whipped
à bombe) cream

Crystallization of
+ + the fat which stabilizes
the structure.

Flavour Texture Functionality

Cocoa Milk Egg Sweetness Aeration Creaminess In-mouth Colour Viscosity Stability
intensity notes flavour fusion

Pâte à bombe-based mousse ••• •• ••••• ••••• •••• •••• •• •••• ••••• ••••

Decoding chocolate mousses Cacao Barry® Ramon Morató Scinnov


Part II. The experiment Creative Director Cacao Barry® Scientific advice 9
4. Ganache-based mousse
The main characteristic of this mousse is it is creamy, contains Basic recipe Usage
relatively little air and is rich in chocolate. Since it doesn't
contain crème anglaise or pâte à bombe, it has a very direct 250 g Whipping cream (35% fat content) This mousse is very versatile. It can be
chocolate flavour. 250 g Milk used for a range of desserts. The final
1 u Vanilla pod texture —semi-liquid— means it can
560 g Fleur de Cao™ dark couverture chocolate (70% cocoa) be assembled using ladles. It has good
940 g Semi-whipped whipping cream (35% fat content) stability when refrigerated.
It is recommended for use in desserts that
1. Boil the whipping cream and milk together. Infuse with the vanilla pod. will be glazed.
2. Pour the liquid gradually onto the couverture and emulsify until homogeneous. It is a good option as a recipe for people
3. Check the temperature of the emulsion. It must be around 40/45°C. Finally, fold in with egg allergies.
the whipped cream.

The final temperature of this mousse should be around 22 to 28°C.

Semi-whipped Emulsion
cream (couverture-cream)

+ + Stabilization of
the structure by the
crystallization of the fat.

Sugar
Water
Fat
Crystallized fat
Air
Dry matter of cocoa

Flavour Texture Functionality

Cocoa Milk Egg Sweetness Aeration Creaminess In-mouth Colour Viscosity Stability
intensity notes flavour fusion

Ganache-based mousse ••••• ••• • • •• ••••• ••• ••• ••• •••••

Decoding chocolate mousses Cacao Barry® Ramon Morató Scinnov


Part II. The experiment Creative Director Cacao Barry® Scientific advice 11
5. Chocolate chiboust
The main characteristic of this type of mousse is that it does not Basic recipe Uses
contain cream as an aerating agent, rather whisked egg whites.
Its texture is creamy and very airy. Its flavour is balanced between 250 g Milk This mousse can be used in all types of
the base cream and the couverture. 250 g Whipping cream dessert, however ideally it should be used
1 un Vanilla pod in those where the mousse doesn't need
50 g Sugar to be handled much. The final texture is
170 g Egg yolks not liquid, due to the whisked egg whites,
30 g Corn starch so a piping bag with a wide tip can be
7 g Gelatine sheets used for assembly. It has good stability
620 g Fleur de Cao™ dark couverture chocolate (70% cocoa) when refrigerated.
500 g Pasteurised egg whites
124 g Invert sugar

1. Create the base pastry cream with milk, cream, sugar, egg yolks, corn starch and
vanilla, heating the mixture to 85°C.
2. Add the gelatine sheets, which have been previously soaked in cold water.
3. Separately, whisk the egg whites with the invert sugar to medium peaks. Do not beat
until stiff as it will make it difficult to incorporate the other ingredients.
4. Mix a small part of the whisked whites with the cream and add all the previously
melted couverture. Sugar
5. Finally, fold in the remaining egg whites.
Water
For this mousse type, you can optionally add approx. 0.1/0.2% of gelatine sheets (2 to 4 Egg protein
g of gelatine sheets for this recipe) to stabilise the mousse and prevent syneresis or water Fat
loss during refrigeration. Crystallized fat
The final temperature of this mousse isn't as important as those that include whipped Gelatin
cream. It can be worked at a higher temperature, although after tests we found that Air
it is best to keep the temperature within 24 to 28°C to ensure the couverture starts to Dry matter of cocoa
crystallise to obtain a better final texture in the chiboust.
Starch
Gelatinized starch

Meringue
+
Gelatin Chocolate couverture

85ºC
+ + Stabilization of the structure
through the gelation of gelatin
and the incorporation of
crystallized fat.

Proteins coagulate and


thicken the preparation.
Gelatinization of the starch

Flavour Texture Functionality

Cocoa Milk Egg Sweetness Aeration Creaminess In-mouth Colour Viscosity Stability
intensity notes flavour fusion

Chocolate chiboust •••• •• ••• ••• •• ••• • ••••• •••• ••

Decoding chocolate mousses Cacao Barry® Ramon Morató Scinnov


Part II. The experiment Creative Director Cacao Barry® Scientific advice 13
6. Egg white-based mousse
The main characteristic of this type of mousse is that it does not Basic recipe Usage
contain cream as an aerating agent, rather whisked egg whites.
Its texture is very airy and its flavour is the strongest of chocolate. 255 g Fresh milk This mousse can be used in all types of
To stabilise it, a percentage of gelatine needs to be combined 255 g Whipping cream (35% fat content) dessert, entremets or served in glasses,
with the couverture. 1 u Vanilla pod however ideally it should be used in
660 g Fleur de Cao™ dark couverture chocolate (70% cocoa) those where the mousse doesn't need to
660 g Pasteurised egg whites be handled much. The final texture is not
170 g Invert sugar liquid, due to the whisked egg whites,
so a piping bag with a wide tip can be
1. Boil the milk and whipping cream together. Infuse with the vanilla pod. used for assembly. It has good stability
2. Emulsify the liquid homogenously with the couverture. when refrigerated.
3. Separately, whisk the egg whites with the invert sugar to medium peaks. Do not beat
until stiff as it will make it difficult to incorporate the other ingredients.
4. Mix a part of the egg whites with the emulsion, blend and finally fold in the
remaining whites.

For this mousse type, you can optionally add approx. 0.1/0.2% of gelatine sheets (2 to 4
g of gelatine sheets for this recipe) to stabilise the mousse and prevent syneresis or water
loss during refrigeration.

The final temperature of this mousse isn't as important as those that include whipped
cream. It can be worked at a higher temperature, although after tests we found that
it is best to keep the temperature within 24 to 28°C to ensure the couverture starts to
crystallise to obtain a better final texture. (Remember always: white and milk couvertures,
lower temperature; dark couvertures, higher temperature). Sugar
Water
Egg protein
Fat
Crystallized fat
Air
Dry matter of cocoa

Emulsion Egg whites


(chocolate couverture-cream) with sugar

Aeration of the structure by


+ + the incorporation of the egg
whites and stabilization by the
crystallization of the fat.

Flavour Texture Functionality

Cocoa Milk Egg Sweetness Aeration Creaminess In-mouth Colour Viscosity Stability
intensity notes flavour fusion

Egg white-based mousse •••• • •• ••• ••••• ••• ••••• •••• ••••• •

Decoding chocolate mousses Cacao Barry® Ramon Morató Scinnov


Part II. The experiment Creative Director Cacao Barry® Scientific advice 15
Comparison

Flavour Texture Functionality

Cocoa Milk Egg Sweetness Aeration Creaminess In-mouth Colour Viscosity Stability
intensity notes flavour fusion

Chocolate bavarois • ••••• •• •• ••• •••• •••• • • ••

Crème anglaise-based mousse ••••• ••• •• • • ••••• ••• ••• ••• •••••

Pâte à bombe-based mousse ••• •• ••••• •••• •••• •••• •• •••• ••••• ••••

Ganache-based mousse ••••• ••• • • •• ••••• ••• ••• ••• •••••

Chocolate chiboust •••• •• ••• ••• •• ••• • ••••• •••• ••

Egg white-based mousse •••• • •• ••• ••••• ••• ••••• •••• ••••• •

* The "•" values are ascending.



* The viscosity value refers to the mousse once mixed and ready to be used in assembling desserts
(the thickest is the pâte à bombe-based mousse and the most liquid, the bavarois).

1 2 3 4 5 6
Chocolate Crème Pâte à Ganache-based Chocolate Egg
bavarois anglaise-based bombe-based mousse chiboust white-based
mousse mousse mousse

Decoding chocolate mousses Cacao Barry®


Partie II. The experiment
Decoding chocolate mousses
Part II
The experiment

Ramon Morató
Creative Director Cacao Barry®

Scinnov
Scientific advice

Cacao Barry®

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