Clutch Kit Install Guide

Let's Get Started!

This will show you a typical
clutch replacement and help you
with the little nuances which will give
you the best result. A clutch is
constructed using asbestos so use a
mask before removing the clutch disc.
Gloves and protective eyewear are a
good idea as well. There will be several
subsequent guides that will need to be
performed before the clutch can be
• Jack up and support the car on jack stands replaced which are listed below:
• Remove the exhaust system (some models)
• Remove the driveshaft (rear wheel drive)
• Remove CV axle (front wheel drive)
• Manual transmission removal
1. Remove the Clutch: Once the above jobs have been done it's time to inspect and remove the
clutch pressure plate. The picture below shows what it looks like once the transmission has been
removed which exposes the clutch assembly that is mounted onto the flywheel at the rear of the engine.
Again this part deals with asbestos so an air mask is recommended.

The pressure plate will be held onto

the flywheel by 10 12mm, 13mm or
14mm bolts in most cases. When
you start to undo the bolts the
flywheel will want to move and turn the
engine over so you will need to break
the bolts loose by applying leverage
inward or outward from the flywheel.
An impact gun also works well for this.

Do not remove all of the bolts at

once because the pressure plate
traps the clutch disc which can be
heavy and can fall causing an injury.
As the last bolts are undone have
an extra hand to control both the
pressure plate and disc. The
pressure plate will start to
move outward from the flywheel as the
the bolts are undone.
 While the last bolts are being
removed keep your hands on the disc and
plate to control these parts. Support
the disc while using a finger which is a
good method of holding the disc onto
the pressure plate.

Once the bolts have been removed the

pressure plate may still be held onto the
flywheel with 3 or more alignment
dowels. Gently work the pressure plate
from the flywheel using a standard
screwdriver until free.

2. Inspect Clutch Wear: The clutch disc

is the part that wears down much like a
brake pad, in fact the clutch disc has
brake pad material on either side of it
which is held on by rivets. When this
lining wears it allows the rivets to contact
the flywheel or pressure plate which
causes the clutch to slip.

3. Check the Flywheel: The clutch

mating surface of the flywheel will now
be exposed. You are looking for extreme
heat checks, hot spots and cracks which
are a sign the clutch was slipping for a
long period of time and will warrant the
flywheel's replacement. The flywheel
below is what a the typical wear pattern
looks like during a clutch replacement
and can be re-machined which must be
done anytime you are servicing the
clutch.
If this step is skipped when the new clutch is installed you will have a good chance that it will chatter when the
clutch pedal is released and the job will need to be redone.
4. Replace Pilot Bearing: On rear
wheel drive and some front wheel
drive cars the clutch will have a pilot
bearing which is designed to support
the input shaft of the stick shift
transmission. If this bearing locks up
or becomes worn out it allows the
input shaft to wonder and will cause
the clutch to not disengage. The pilot
bearing should be replaced during the
clutch service.

5. Match the New Clutch: Place the old

clutch next to the new clutch on a
table. Check the diameter of the disc
and the surface area of the clutch
material. Also look at the pressure
plate height with one next to the other,
they should be fairly close. This will
present a problem if they are way off in
the operation of the clutch, either not
releasing or engaging.

Before re-installing the clutch disc

back onto the flywheel fit the disc over
the input shaft of the transmission. It
should slide onto the shaft with little
resistance. This is too help avoid a
problem when reinstalling the
transmission.

6. Install the New Clutch: This part is

very important! The clutch disc can
go onto the pressure plate in either
direction but only one direction is
correct. The part of the disc that is
protruding outward must go toward
the pressure plate or the clutch will
not release so it's important to install
the disc in the proper direction. Also it
is important to use brake cleaner to
remove grease and dirt from the
flywheel and pressure plate clutch
contact surfaces before installation.
 Gently install the new clutch disc and
pressure plate onto the alignment
dowels of the newly resurfaced
flywheel while installing the
mounting bolts by hand. Leave the
pressure plate bolts a little lose so the
pressure plate can move around. This is
so you can insert the clutch
alignment tool included in the clutch kit.

Locate the clutch alignment tool

included in the clutch replacement kit.
This is needed to line up the clutch
disc to the pilot bearing so the
transmission can be easily
reinstalled.

With the clutch disc loose position and

install the clutch alignment tool into
the clutch disc and pilot bearing. Slightly
tighten the bolts further to hold the
disc in place and move the tool in a
circular motion. It will give some
resistance in all directions and you want
to find a good center point. This
means the disc is in the middle of the
pressure plate.

Tighten the pressure plate evenly and

slowly in a star pattern using a ratchet. Do
not tighten any one bolt all at once and do
not use air tools. This will bend the
pressure plate and cause the clutch not to
disengage. Work your way around the
pressure plate slowly tightening several
times until completely tight. You will
notice the fingers of the pressure plate
traveling inward as you tighten the bolts.
You want this progression to be as even as
possible. and 30 foot pounds.
Again the flywheel will try and turn the engine over so tighten inward. If this step is not done correctly the
clutch will not release properly which can cause hard shifting. Finish tightening the bolts to factory torque
specifications which is usually between 25
Remove the clutch alignment tool and
recheck all of the mounting bolts.

7. Replace Throughout Bearing: The

throwout bearing is designed to push the
fingers of the pressure plate inward to
disengage the clutch. When these fingers
are out or with no pressure on them the
clutch is engaged. When replacing the
clutch assembly it is highly advised to
replace the throwout bearing because it
has a high failure rate. Some throwout
bearings are attached to the clutch slave
cylinder which should be replaced as a
unit.

8. Clutch Break-in and Adjustment: Once

the transmission has been reinstalled
slowly pump the clutch pedal until
normal pedal operation is present. Watch
and add clutch fluid (brake fluid) in the
process. After the repair start the engine
and push the clutch pedal down
completely while shifting the transmission
through its gears. It's normal for this
operation to be a little rough while the
clutch is in it's "break in" period. Normal
shifting characteristics should return after
a few miles.