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OTHER PRACTICAL "HOW-TO" BOATING BOOKS PUBLISHED BY GLEN-L:

"BOATBUILDING WITH PLYWOOD"

"INBOARD MOTOR INSTALLATIONS IN SMALL BOATS"
"HOW TO BUILD BOAT TRAILERS"
"RIGGING SMALL SAILBOATS"

FOR FREE BOOK LITERATURE, WRITE TO:

GLEN-L MARINE DESIGNS
9152 Rosecrans
Bellflower, CA 90706
 how to
fiberglass
boats
BY KEN HANKINSON,
NAVAL ARCHITECT

PUBLISHED BY GLEN - L

SB
FOURTH PRINTING
COPYRIGHT 1974
GLEN-L, Bellflower, California
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOG CARD NUMBER 74-27715
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
No part of this book may be reproduced in any form
without permission in writing from the publisher.
 . . .contents

PART I - introduction 6

CHAPTER 1 - why cover a boat with fiberglass? 8

CHAPTER 2 - fiberglass materials 10

CHAPTER 3 - resins 15

CHAPTER 4 - how much will you need? 20

CHAPTER 5 - tools & equipment 24

CHAPTER 6 - fiberglassing old boats 30

CHAPTER 7 - how to use the materials 34

CHAPTER 8 - how fiberglass boats are made 71

PART II - introduction 77

CHAPTER 9 - "one-off" construction methods 78

CHAPTER 10 - Vectra polypropylene fiber fabric 98

CHAPTER 11 - Dynelmodacrylic fiber fabric 102

CHAPTER 12 - Arabol glue & fabric sheathing 105

CHAPTER 13 - Cascover sheathing process 109

CHAPTER 14 - safety 111

glossary 113

acknowledgements 119
 . . . introduction

A college professor once told me that the

purpose of an introduction to a book is "to
tell the reader what you're going to tell him!"

So what this book is going to tell about is

how to cover boats with fiberglass (specif-
ically), plus a lot more about the subject of
fiberglass and related materials (in general).
This is a practical "how-to" book, however
there's some technical information thrown
in wherever necessary to explain the topic

on hand, but not so much as to boggle the

mind.
The book is divided into two parts, with
the first part being concerned with the basic
p/\|\ I I materials, tools, and equipment used in
covering boats with fiberglass, and how to
apply and work with the materials. This first
section is applicable to the covering of boats
made from virtually any material, besides
being applicable to the use of the materials
in "one-off" construction methods dis-
cussed in the second part of the book.
There's also a chapter on how fiberglass
boats are actually produced in the factory
which should prove of interest to the
inexperienced amateur boat-builder as well
as to the novice boater.
The second part of the book is concerned
with other processes and materials using not
only fiberglass and resin, but other materials
which either complement fiberglass pro-
cesses or compete directly with them. The
final chapter concerns safety in a handy
concise reference format which hope the I

reader will review PRIOR to beginning his

work. There's also a Glossary at the back of
the book where most of the terms used
throughout the text are defined.
The style of the book has been kept
informal and (I hope) easy to read. Where a
fact is a fact, I have tried to state it as such.
But, there are many "opinions" as well as
 . . . introduction

observations in this book based not only on opinions associated with fiberglass materials
the testing and research made in writing the and processes. The responses received to-
book, but also as a result of the combined gether with all the experience we had
experience over a twenty-year period work- accumulated still left many doubtful points
ing with the amateur boat-builder under the and varying opinions in spite of a lot of
auspices of CLEN-L Marine Designs. Hence, excellent information gained. As a result, a
there are numerous statements made in the were made simulating
series of "test panels"
text with the preface of "I" (your author), or a tvpical hull section of a boat.Under these
"we" (the combined experience of the "test" conditions, various methods, mater-
GLEN-L organization). ials, and procedures were tried in an attempt

Why was this book written? Most amateur to help provide solutions to common prob-
boatbuilders today will include fiberglass lems as well as to prove or disprove various
materials in at least some part of building processes and differing points of view.
their boats, and over the years we have been However, must caution the reader that the
I

approached countless times with questions
from amateurs concerning fiberglass mater-
ials and procedures. In digesting all these
questions, our conclusion has been that
many opinions and much controversy exists
on the subject, not to mention the wide
results obtained, as well as the opinions
stated in this book, ARE NOT THE LAST
WORD! Much controversy still remains
unresolved and there will probably be
instances where all the "facts" are still not
in.

variety of materials and methods which can But resolving controversy and making a
be used. For example, some may wish to compendium on the "state-of-the-art" are
cover a new plywood boat with fiberglass, not the primary purposes of this book. What
while others might like to cover an old IS the goal of the book is to enable the reader

existing wood boat. Or, there are instances to work with the materials as easily as
where fiberglass may be used to reinforce possible, obtain satisfactory results, and
and strengthen various parts of an old boat; avoid pitfalls. Moreover, hope to take
I

orone may even wish to build an entire boat some of the fear and anxiety out of the task
using fiberglass materials and resin, together of using fiberglass materials as well as to
with one of the "one-off" materials dis- dispell some of the myths, and tell the
cussed in this book. The less ambitious may "how-and-why" of failures so the reader
desire only to replace an old covered deck or won't have to suffer through them.
cabin top with fiberglass or one of the other In short, if you are not experienced with

competing materials available. Whichever fiberglass, or your experience is limited,

category you fall into, this book is an
attempt to provide the information you'll
require in order to turn out an acceptable
and satisfactory job.
In writing and researching material
book, questionnaires and letters were sent
around the world to noted authorities and
there's a lot of information here that will be
useful to you. If you have a lot of experience
with fiberglass, you'll probably find a lot
that's new, or a new "twist" that has been
for this added which you may not be familiar with.
For me, writing this book was a learning
experience, and hope it will be the same for
I

other naval architects in order to gain some the reader using this book. Best of luck!
consensus on many of the questions and
 CHAPTER 1 . . .

. . . why cover a boat with fiberglass?

Beginning a chapter heading with a ing, and for this reason, the boat owner
question such as the preceeding may seem should not be misled into thinking that he
self-evident in this day and age. But the can take a structurally weak or unsound
surprising thing is that many people do not hull, slap some cloth and resin on it, and
realize the REAL reasons why they even make it sound. This practice has led to
want to use fiberglass, especially when it more than one rescue effort on the part of
comes to covering boat hull. Unfor-
a the U. S. Coast Guard.

tunately, much of the misconception is a Probably one of the most repeated claims
result of promotional efforts and false about covering a boat with fiberglass ma-
information disseminated from those with terials and resin (as well as for factory-built
vested interests, i.e. people who want to fiberglass boats too!) is that "you'll NEVER
make a buck selling the materials. The have to paint your boat again, EVER!" This
primary reasons for covering (or "sheath- statement is ONLY true if you don't give a
ing") a boat hull with fiberglass cloth and darn what your boat looks like! It IS true
resin are as follows: that the resin coating used with the mater-
1. Reduced hull maintenance ial as well as the resin gel coats (outer
2. Improved appearance coating) used on factory-built fiberglass
3. To keep the water out of the boat boats are finished surfaces in themselves
Any ONE of the above is reason enough and offer some degree of protection. How-
to go through the work and expense of ever, even though the gel coat on factory-
doing the job, if you think your boat is built fiberglass boats contains a "molded-
worth it. Of course, there can be secon- in" color, and resin can be pigmented in
dary reasons, the importance of which will covering work over other boats, the sur-
vary considerably depending on the type faces will sooner or later fade, loose their
of boat, the waters in which it is located, color intensity, become "blotchy" with
and the service to which it is put. For sanding and dockside abrasions, and be
example, you can add new life to an old subject to other atmospheric changes
boat by covering the hull with fiberglass which will require paint of some type to
material which will add some strength and enhance or restore the appearance of the
watertightness to the seams and joints. Or boat.
you can use fiberglass material for repair- What IS true, however, is that in most
ing or restoring old or damaged parts cases the boat will probably go two, three,
within the boat, thereby extending its use- or more seasons without needing paint.
ful life. Or you might cover a boat with This is still improvement over old
quite an
fiberglass material just to prevent marine uncovered wood boats which require paint
parasites (primarily shipworms or teredos) each season. Note, however, that for boats
and But generally speaking, a fiber-
rot. which remain in the water all season, a
glass covering of cloth should be consid- special anti-fouling bottom paint is still
ered as a non-structural, cosmetic cover- required on any boat regardless of what it

8
 why cover a boat with fiberglass?

is made from. In short, a fiberglass boat or which will give good results when used
one covered with fiberglass materials WILL properly. By not following instructions,
require maintenance, but probably not at you'll probably wind up with a boat that
the rate of other boats and probably will actually looks WORSE than before it was
not be as expensive to maintain overall covered with fiberglass.
when maintenance is required. The use of fiberglass cloth forms a
As can be seen by photographs of some seamless envelope around the hull which
of the boats in this book, a covering of effectively keeps water from passing
fiberglass cloth and resin can do wonders through any seams or joints (which are
for a boat's appearance. Of course, this structurally sound!) and into the boat. This
applies only when the job isdone correctly same quality can also be put to good use on
according to the methods specified in this decks and cabin tops to keep water out of
text, as well as when the surfaces are the accommodation spaces on larger cruis-
painted or coated with a suitable paint ing boats.
system applied per the manufacturer's in- Now that you know some of the PEAL
FOLLOWING THE INSTRUC-
structions. reasons for covering boats with fiberglass,
TIONS PROVIDED WITH THE PRODUCTS you can better decide if your boat should be
YOU WILL USE THROUGHOUT THE FIBER- covered. You'll have to weigh the benefits of
GLASS APPLICATION CANNOT BE OVER- the covering, both with regard to the value
STRESSED! Generally speaking, the manu- of your boat as well as the cost and effort
facturers of resins and paint systems spend a required to do the job. In the next chapter
considerable amount of time and effort in fiberglass materials are introduced and their
testingand research to arrive at products various qualities discussed.
 CHAPTER 2 . . .

fiberglass materials

WHAT IS FIBERGLASS?

Fiberglass materials and the composite The fiberglass filaments are made into the
products made from them suffer from an materials known as "fiberglass." These ma-
abundance names which, quite simply,
of terials include cloth (or "fabric"), various
refer to the same thing. Depending on the mats, rovings, and woven rovings. These
geographical area or who is talking, you materials will be discussed in more detail
might hear terms like "glass-fibre," or "glass later. In the process of making the materials,
reinforced plastic," or "GRP," all of which the strands of filaments must be protected
are in common use in England, for example. from abrasion and breaking with a "sizing"
Or in this country, the terms "fiberglass material containing oil and other elements.
reinforced plastic," "FRP," "glass fiber," as Since this sizing material incompatible
is

well as the term "fiberglass" are in common with the resins which will be used with the
use. In all cases, these terms mean the use of fiberglass material, the sizing must be
fiberglass material conjunction
usually in cleaned or specially "finished" so the resin
with some type To keep
of plastic resin. will saturate and bond to the fiberglass
things simple, this book will use the term material. There are many cleaning processes
"fiberglass" throughout because that's what (or "finishes") used in making the materials,
most people call it. but for boat work, the two common types
What is fiberglass? Basically, it's a mater- are known as "chrome" and "silane" finish.
ial made from glass filaments. With the These finishes give the fiberglass materials
advance of technology, many new types of their characteristic "white translucent" ap-
glass filaments with high strength properties pearance. This leads us to a tip for the
and other specialized characteristics are unwary: If someone offers you fiberglass
now available or in the process of develop- material which does NOT have this white
ment. However, due to economic consider- translucent quality, or otherwise looks "dir-
ations and the fact that boats generally need ty" or "greasy," DON'T BUY IT NO MATTER
only materials of medium strength with high HOW CHEAP IT MAY BE! Such material has
rigidity, the type of fiberglass filament used not been cleaned or finished, and will not
in fiberglass boat work is
materials for bond with the resin.

technically known as "type E-glass," the "E"

standing for "electrical grade." For you
CLOTH
technical "buffs," the actual glass used is a
lime-alumina borosilicate glass of low alkali Fiberglass clothis woven from fine yarns

content with a high chemical stability and and ply construction into a
of various twist
moisture resistance. This glass composition wide range of types, weights, and widths
offers ample properties of flexibility, For boat covering purposes, cloth selected
strength, and abrasion resistance under should be a plain square open-weave type.
most marine conditions. Cloth is categorized by weight per square

10
 fiberglass materials

BASIC FIBERGLASS MATERIALS

(a) Roving —
Strands of glass fibers are grouped (c) Mat — Randomly oriented strands of glass
together to form untwisted yarn. The roving fibers forming a bulky thick felt held
iseither used in a "chopper gun " or woven to together with a resinous binder.
form woven rovings.

(b) Woven —
roving A coarse fabric made from
roving. It resembles cloth but is much
heavier.

[d] Cloth— Woven fabric made from fine yarns

of fiberglass. Two examples shown are a
regular 70 ounce cloth, while the finer cloth
is a light weight 4 ounce "deck" cloth.

11
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

yard and ranges from approximately 2 willbond and saturate the material. The
ounces (very light!) to 40 ounces (very completed fabric is again treated or finished
heavy!) per square yard. Cloth thinnerthan 4 so the cloth will have the characteristic
ounces is not durable enough for most boat "white translucent" appearance.
work, while cloth much heavier than about There seem to be many types of processes
10 ounces is more difficult to wet out and for getting this "finish" and each fiberglass
form around corners and contours as is often cloth weaver wants to "protect" his own
required in boat covering work. "special process." Of course, there are
Lightweight 4 and 6 ounce cloth is often various names given to these processes
sold as "deck cloth" and is ideal, for which are, in the end, basically the same.
example, where a natural wood surface is Some of the names for various cloth finishes
desired to be left exposed, and yet the include: "chrome treated," "Volan," and
durability of fiberglass reinforced covering is "Garan." From the consumer's standpoint,
wanted. The weave of this lightweight cloth this just makes the situation confusing,
is easy to conceal so the true beauty of the because you go down to your local
if

surface below stands out through the clear
resin. For covering purposes such as the hull,
deck, and cabin top areas, cloths ranging
from 7Vi to 10 ounces should be used as they
offer greater durability and resistance to
scrapes and abrasion.
Commonly used widths of cloth are 38",
44", 50", and 60", usually sold by the
running yard. Also available are cloth tapes
supplier and ask for a cloth with one of these
finishes, he probably won't know what
you're talking about! The usual reply from
local merchants is, "we've got boat cloth,"
which IS what you want and will probably be
treated with one of these finishes. Again,
however, if the cloth does not look white
and translucent, or is dirty or greasy, DON'T
BUY IT!

with selvaged edges in widths from about 2"

to 12" which are ideal for reinforcement of
MAT
localized areas and seams for making a boat
watertight. Cloth is the most expensive of Fiberglass mat a reinforcing material
is

fiberglass materials, and hence is not much made of glass fibers about 1" to 2" in length
used for building of fiberglass boats. If cloth or continuous strands arranged in a random
were the primary material used in building swirl pattern held together with a resinous
an all-fiberglass boat, it would be very binder. The type of mat used in boat work is
uneconomical to use as it takes too much of commonly referred to as "chopped strand
the material to build up the hull to the mat" and is categorized by weight per square
required thickness. When cloth is used in foot (not square yard as for cloth and woven
fiberglass boatbuilding, it is usually used in roving). Weights vary from approximately
conjunction with various compositions of 3/4 ounce to 3 ounces per square foot. Most
mat and woven roving. Cloth by itself is used commonly used weights, however, are 1
almost exclusively for covering or sheathing ounce, IV2 ounce, and 2 ounce per square
hulls, decks, and cabins, or for repair work. foot mats.
In weaving the fiberglass cloth, the yarns Mats are less expensive than either cloth
(that are made from the strand of filaments or woven and hence are commonly
roving,
discussed earlier which have already been used in laminates. Mat is easy to wet out as it
"chrome" or "silane" treated) must again be absorbs resin readily. In fiberglass boat-
protected from breaking and abrasion dur- building, the mat gives good bonding be-
ing the weaving operation by another "siz- tween layers of cloth and/or woven roving,
ing" treatment. Of course, now the cloth is quick thickness build-up, reinforcing prop-
"dirty" again and must be treated so the resin erties, and can be molded into complex

12
 fiberglass materials

shapes easilv Mat, however, is not as strong woven roving is 24 ounce per square yard
as cloth or woven roving, and this is one variety.
reason it is commonly used in conjunction Woven roving gives high strength to a
with other fiberglass materials, especially in laminate composition at a cost lower than
fiberglass boatbuilding. cloth fabrics, which makes it an important
Mat in a lightweight form known as structural element in laminate composition
"surfacing mat," is often used as the initial in fiberglass boatbuilding. But because of its

laver against the mold surface in female coarse appearance, it is not used where
molds used tor fiberglass boat construction surface appearance is important, as the
to form a watertight barrier as well as a weave cannot be concealed without exces-
smooth blemish-free surface, Bee auseof the sive resin build-up. Woven roving is more
open weave pattern of cloth and roving, difficult to wet out than mat or most cloth
these materials can absorb water to some fabrics, but it builds up thickness rapidly and
extent, and there is a tendency for the weave adds strength The material is often used in

toshow through the gel or surface coat in alternate layers with mat for boatbuilding
molded boats. The use of mat prevents or laminates.
minimizes these problems. Another type of roving fabric is unidirec-
Mat can be purchased by the yard in tional woven roving. This material consists
widths usually the same as fur cloth. Also of heavy crimped parallel rovings with a
available are various sized pre cut packages smaller number of light rovings at right
of mat for use in smaller projects. Because angles to them. adds high
This material
the mat fibers are only held with a thin directional strength properties to a laminate
resinous binder man\ loose strands are where required in the design of a fiberglass
apparent This is not important and does not boat. The use of unidirectional roving is

mean that the m.it defective. Even small

is somewhat commercial boatbuild-
limited in

holes and voids an be tolerated in the mat

< ing due to higher costs and the fact that the
without detriment, tor once the material is
saturated, you can push it around to some
degree and cover over these aieas. '30 don't
be too hard on your rnei hanl if the mat you
( usually available in the same widths as cloth
receive looks a little like it
apart. That's the nature of the stuff.
WOVEN ROVING
Woven roving is a coarse,
heavy fabric which resembles loth fabrics.
The square-weave type is commonly used in
boat building. Woven roving is made from
rovings which consist of continuous strands
of glass fibers grouped together to form
untwisted yarns or rope-like structures.
These rovings are arranged into a lattice
work weave to form the woven
material. Woven roving is categorized by
weight per square yard, ranging from ap-
proximately 14 ounces to 40 ounces per
square yard A commonly used weight of
more common fiberglass materials will
usually do the job.
When purchasing woven roving, it is
might he falling and mat materials, and is also sold by the
yard. In some cases there are pre-cut
packages of woven roving available for
smaller applications. The edges of woven
roving are usually not selvaged as with cloth,
open weave, and there is a tendency for the rovings to pull
< apart and away from one another, especially
along the edges. A few loose strands won't
affect the material, but care should be
exercised in handling the material so as not
to pull it apart.
OTHER FIBERGLASS MATERIALS
roving
Cloth, mat, and woven rovings are the
three primary materials which this book is
concerned with as they are the most com-
monly used fiberglass materials. However,
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS . . .

there are some other materials which will be such combination material mates a layer of
mentioned inform the reader., Unidi-
just to mat and woven roving together. Another
rectional rovings have already been noted, material is chopped strands of fiberglass
and in Chapter 8, ordinary rovings and how available bulk and used for making fillers
in
they are used will be discussed. Some other or putty materials. But in most cases these
fiberglass materials are available that consist other materials are variations on the ones
of a combination of mat, cloth, and/or previously noted.
woven roving to form another product. One

This plywood planked boat was built by an
amateur who had never built a boat before. The
entire hull was covered with a single layer of
fiberglass cloth and clear polyester resin. The
natural finished foredeck of ribbon grained
mahogany was covered with lightweight deck
cloth without staining the wood beforehand.
The entire boat was finished with a sprayed
two-part epoxy paint system for a rich, deep
finish, using a clear finish on the foredeck.
The resulting hull will be maintenance free for
many seasons.

14
CHAPTER 3 . . .
Fiberglass laminates are a synergetic
position; that is, they consist of two or
materials which work together to develop
characteristics that are better or greater than
if one of the materials was used separately.
One of these materials, the fiberglass
has already been discussed. The other
material in the composition is the resin. The
world of plastics has developed so
different types of resin that it is a wonder the
chemists can keep matters straight. But, in
boat work, we are only concerned with two
basic resin types: Polyester and epoxy. Even
still, there are numerous types and formula-
tions available depending on the application
requirements. In the following, an attempt
will be made to sort things out as well as to
tell something about the characteristics of
these two types of resin
POLYESTER RESIN
By far the most common resin used in
boatbuilding is the polyester type. Polyester
resins are classed as "thermosetting" resins;
that is, they cure or set up by internally
generated heat and cannot be melted or
liquified again by the application of heat,
unlike a "thermoplastic" resin. The resin is in
liquid form weighing about nine pounds per
gallon, and there are no by-products result-
ing from the curing process. Polyesters are
petrochemical-based products which begin
life in the oil refining process. The following
describes how the resin is made and my
apologies if it seems a little technical to
many, but sometimes there are no substi-
tutes for some of the chemical terms.
In the manufacture of the resin, various
resins
com- anhydrides, glycols, and styrene are made
more by reaction processes from benzene, propy-
lene, and ethylene, which the resin manu-
facture "mixes" together and "cooks" in
large kettles. This cooking process tends to
itself, "harden" or polymerize the resin as well as
to increase the thickness or viscosity. The
cooking process is stopped short (or "half
many cooked") and then thinned with styrene.
Resin used in boatbuilding usually contains
between 38% to 48% of this styrene. Once
thinned with styrene, the resin is ready to be
sold. Of course, resin manufacturers can
vary the ingredients and formulate resins
which are suited to particular applications,
and as a result, all polyesters are not the
same. Also, various fillers, promoters or
accelerators and other modifying additives
may be added for special duty end uses.
If the cooking process just described was
carried through, the resin would harden
completely. But since the process is halted
part way through, the resin is said to be
"pre-polymerized" or partially hardened.
However, because the resin has been sent on
its way to hardening, the "cooking" proce-
dure causes a lasting effect on the resin and
it will still eventually harden over an
extended period of time on its own even
when cool. This is why resin should be
"fresh" when purchased and used, as old
resin will not function properly because it is
"on its way" to eventual cure. Most resin
manufacturers do a good job in assuring that
they, as well as their distributors, maintain
fresh stock. The useful shelf life denoted by
most manufacturers is from six months to
one year, although this can be increased by
refrigerated (not frozen) storage.
15
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
When using resin, of course you can't wait
forever for it to harden, so to fully polymer-
ize ("cook" or cure) the resin in use, two
additional ingredients are required. One is
called the "accelerator" and the other is
called the "catalyst." These two elements
work as a "team" to help the resin speed up
its final job. The accelerator and the catalyst
produce an internal heat in the resin which
makes the final cure or "hardening" pos-
sible.
in boat work, the
For polyester resins used
common used is technically
accelerator
known as cobalt napthanate (commonly
called "cobalt"), while the usual catalyst is
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide. This catalyst
is commonly referred to as "M-E-K" however
itshould be called "M-E-K-P" (although few
use this terminology). Methyl ethyl ketone
(or "M-E-K" without the "?") is actually a
solvent in the acetone family and NOT a
catalyst. The heat these two materials
(accelerator and catalyst) cause is the result
of a rapid oxidation, the speed of which is
determined by the amount of these ingred-
ients added, as well as the ambient temper-
ature where the curing takes place.
Several years ago polyester resins were
sold without either of these two elements in
the resin. They were added later by the user
as required. However, one serious problem
developed. It was violently discovered that
when cobalt and M-E-K peroxide were mixed
into the resin AT THE SAME TIME, they
could explode due to the immediate, rapid,
and uncontrollable release of oxygen cre-
ated by the coming together of the two
materials. As a result, resin manufacturers
now mix the cobalt into the resin by itself at
the factory, and the catalyst is packed
separately for final addition by the user.
However, because these two items can be
purchased separately by the ultimate user,
one important safety rule must be em-
phasized:
16
. .
WARNING: DO NOT MIX COBALT
NAPTHANATE AND METHYL ETHYL
KETONE PEROXIDE TOGETHER AT
THE SAME TIME AS A VIOLENT RE-
ACTION OR EXPLOSION WILL
OCCUR.
The final addition of the catalyst will
make the resin cure or get hard by the heat
reaction.The speed of this reaction varies
depending on the ambient temperature, the
amount of catalyst added (both previously
mentioned), and the humidity of the work-
ing area. High humidity slows or may even
prevent curing, while low humidity speeds
curing. The resin will also cure more rapidly
in a compact mass (such as the container it is
in) than over a widely dispersed area such as
the working surface, as the heat will be more
concentrated in the smaller area.
Polyester resin is an air-inhibited resin;
that is, the air exposed surface will not cure
in the presence of air and will exhibit
tackiness. In order for the resin surface to
cure, it must be sealed off from the air. This
can be done in two ways. The ordinary way is
to purchase a resin that contains a non-air
inhibiterwhich is usually a wax solution (or
you can add your own wax solution as will be
noted in Chapter 7). Once the resin has been
applied, the wax will "float" to the surface
thereby sealing out the and allow the
air
resin surface to cure. A polyester resin which
contains this wax is often referred to as
"finishing resin" because it is usually used as
the final coat of a laminate or covering
application so it will cure.
The other way to cure the resin is to seal
the surface from the air AFTER applying the
resin by applying a surface coating over the
applied resin. This can be done by using a
sheet material such as cellophane or Mylar,
or with a spray applicatoin of a product such
as polyvinyl alcohol (known commonly as
"P-V-A"). Resins which do not contain wax.
 . . . resins

as does the finishing resin previously noted, quality of thixotropy is a variable. Some
are commonly referred to as "laminating resins will be more or less thixotropic than
resin." Therefore, the two basic types of others, and generally speaking, a laminating
polyester resin most commonly used are: resin is somewhat more fluid (less thixo-
tropic) than other resin types. The quality of
LAMINATING RESIN (AIR INHIB-
thixotropy can be a mixed bag, having both
ITED, CONTAINS NO WAX) AND FIN-
good as well as bad features depending on
ISHING RESIN (NON-AIR INHIBITED,
the ultimate use of the resin.
CONTAINS WAX).
When purchasing polyester resin, it is

Of course, there are many other types of often difficult for the consumer to tell just
polyester resins which are available, such as what he is getting. I have not seen any resin
"casting" resins. But the above two types are may be some manufacturer
(although there
the common ones used in boat work and the somewhere who does have this policy)
novice should stick to these. There are some which is clearly date-stamped as to shelf life.
manufacturers who formulate variations of Nor have seen a commercial resin for boat
I

these two resins and give them other names,
such as "sanding" resin or "surfacing" resin,
but these still fall into the two categories;
that they either contain wax or they do
is,
not contain wax.
A term which frequently confuses the
novice is "thixotropic." Many people think
that "thixotropic" resins are those
work at a retail outlet that didn't have the
word "thixotropic" on the label. And taking
off the lid and looking at the resin won't
prove anything. Some are clear and a pretty
shade of clear purple, while others are a
thick, murky, brown color (they all seem to
work regardless of the physical appearance
which are in the container). Experience has shown that

"thick" (partly true and not true as I hope to if you purchase from a reputable distributor

explain). Others read statements or hear who appears to do a reasonable business

proclamations from resin merchants that
their resin is "thixotropic" and "won't run or
sag." But the actual definition of "thixo-
tropic" (see Glossary) is
resin to thicken at rest but
again on agitation and stirring."
ally, have always been somewhat mystified
I containers without any knowledge of their
by this definition (which comes from the
plastics engineers themselves). But
means in plain English is
for a resin to run or sag is
quality of thixotropy. Please note my em-
(good turnover of resin), then you'll not go
wrong. However, beware of so-called "cut
rate" or "marked down" (probably too old!)
"the quality of a resins, or resins which weigh far less than
become fluid about 8 or 9 lbs. per gallon (probably have
(!) Person- been "thinned"), or resins in unmarked
origination. This is one area where you
what it might save by careful shopping, but you'll
tendency
that the probably "get what you pay for" if you
MINIMIZED by the accept so-called "bargain resin."
Another type of polyester resin which is

phasis on that word, minimize. The myth commonly mentioned is the so-called "gel
that there are some polyester resins which coat." Primarily, a gel coat is simply a layer
will NOT run or sag should be dispelled. ALL of resin applied to the female mold surface
polyester resins will run or sag to some in the production of fiberglass boats built
degree at least on vertical or near-vertical using this process, and allowed to set or
surfaces. It IS true that a polyester resin "gel" before applying the first layer of
could be formulated that would not run, but fiberglass material in the lay-up process (see
experts in the field assure me that it would be Chapter 8). This definition is somewhat
so difficult to use that it would be useless, let over-simplified because gel coats are a
alone virtually impossible to wet out the special fieldthemselves and require
in
fiberglass material. In other words, the different formulations and characteristics

17
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
than do the ordinary laminating and finish-
ing polyester resins. Gel coat resins are
almost always sprayed on and are pigmented
in any number of colors. Since they are air
inhibited (wax-free), gel coat resins are
rarely used in covering work where the gel
coat would be the final coating, except
where a surfacing agent (wax or PVA) or film
cover (such as cellophane) is used, and this
is usually only done over small areas such as
in repair work. Gel coat manufacturers do
NOT recommend that gel coats be applied
with a brush. Some of the reasons for this are
as follows. First off, polyester resin of any
type goes on like a bad paint, that is, it is
difficult to flow on and level out with a
brush. Secondly, this problem means that
the uniform thickness necessary for a good
application of gel coat is virtually impossible
to maintain or verify. This leads to surface
flaws and problems which may be impos-
sible to correct. Finally, not practical to
it is
work more than a small area with a brush at
one time; and generally speaking, the
success of a good gel coat is dependent on
how quickly, evenly, and thoroughly it can
be applied. I've elaborated on gel coats at
this point more than may seem necessary.
But, sooner or later, the question invariably
comes up as to why it is not recommended
that gel coats be used EXCEPT for the
purpose which they were intended. And this
purpose is for spray application in female
mold fiberglass boat construction. you If
think this is "hogwash," or you think you
might have some special application where
gel coat might work, the best thing to do is to
contact one of the gel coat manufacturers
directly and discuss the problem with them.
EPOXY RESIN
The other type of resin used in boat work is
the epoxy type. Here again, epoxy resins are
classed as "thermosetting" resins as they too
cure by internally generated heat. Epoxy
resins for boat work consist of two parts that,
when mixed together, activate and cure the
18
material. The curing agent is ordinarily
called the "hardener," as opposed to the
catalyst used with polyester resins. There is a
tremendous variety of epoxy resins avail-
able, and indeed the selection of a correct
one for a particular application can be
confusing. The novice must depend to a
large extent on what the product label tells
him. While polyester resins occupy a major-
ity of the market in resins for boat work,
there are certain applications where only
epoxy resins are practical. This statement
gets us into a discussion of the various
differences between both types.
Epoxy resins have greater bonding
strength, less shrinkage and better weather-
ing and physical characteristics than poly-
ester resins. However, their use has been
limited due to higher cost, slow curing
(normally 24 hours before subsequent work
can be performed) and problems with
handling (they are not as safe for people to
use).
Epoxy resins require greater care in use.
They also require more care in selecting the
proper type for a given application along
with a suitable hardener. For example, some
epoxy resins use amine hardeners and these
can cause dermatitis, skin burns, and respir-
atory problems with many people, espe-
cially those subject to allergic reactions.
While many resin manufacturers formulate
their epoxy resins with matching hardeners,
there are epoxy resins which can be mixed
with hardeners from other companies, and
in varying proportions to arrive at a given
result. While this makes epoxy resin versatile
(if you know enough about them), it does
tend to confuse matters for the novice who
has probably heard a lot of good things
about epoxy resins. In short, if you want to
use an epoxy resin, follow the manufac-
turer's recommendations explicitly. And if
you are going to use an epoxy resin of a
certain brand, and another brand of hard-
ener, do so only on the most reliable
technical information you can obtain.
In application over the following mater-
 . . . resins

ials, epoxy resins are highly recommended a polyesterresin onto an epoxy-coated

— or a must! These include aluminum, steel, surface, theepoxy resin MUST be thorough-
teak, oak,redwood, western red cedar, and ly cured. Wait at least several days before

cypress, as well as other non-porous sur- applying polyester resin to the epoxy
faces. It is possible to use an initial coat of surface.
epoxy resin over a surface to act as a "seal" Epoxy resins are not so temperamental to
coat, and then polyester resins can be ambient conditions. For example, many
applied over this coat together with the types can be used in relatively humid
complete the lay up.
fiberglass materials to conditions. But when using epoxy resins,
The reason for making an application of this always wear protective clothing, eye protec-
type is to assure a complete bond on a tion, and avoid working in closed spaces. If
questionable surface, plus save money by you get any on your skin, wash the area
using polyester resin for the balance of the immediately with soap and water or de-
job as it is cheaper (and in my opinion easier natured alcohol.
and safer) to use. However, before applying

19
 CHAPTER 4 . . .

. . . how much will you need?

The amount of materials needed to do a the fact that some materials tend to wet out
given job, of course, will vary depending on better and with less resin than others. One
the fiberglass material being used, the way of determining the amount of resin to
composition of the fiberglass materials, and use is the same way boat
that fiberglass
the size of the project. Because every manufacturers and naval architects do, and
application will vary, it may be necessary to this is the resin/glass ratio. For example, a
increase or decrease the amount of material typical mat laminate should contain about
somewhat depending on such things as the 30% fiberglass material and about 70% resin
widths of fiberglass materials available, or by weight. A woven roving laminate should
the manner in which the materials are contain about 45% fiberglass material and
applied (longitudinally, or cross-wise, for about 55% resin content. A variation of 5%
example), and even depending on how far plus or minus is usual. Because it may be
away you are from a source of supplies. difficult to go to a supplier and actually
Generally speaking, it is best to buy more "weigh" the materials, I'll break down these
than not enough material, as it always seems percentages and give a couple of concrete
(at least in my experience) that you use more examples.
than you had figured. Of course, mistakes If using 2-ounce mat, using the ratio of

can happen and it's best to figure a little resin-to-glass as noted above, one gallon of
extra just for such eventualities. resin will saturate and give the ideal resin/
glass ratio over an area of about 30 square
feet. If using 24-ounce woven roving for the
FIGURING RESIN
above proportions, one gallon of resin will
The amount of resin required depends on saturate and give the ideal resin/glass ratio
the type of fiberglass material being used as over an area of between 40 and 45 square
well as the viscosity of the resin. Figuring the feet. Of course, these figures are the ideal
amount of resin if working with cloth is and don't take into account any material
much easier than for the other materials which will be wasted (and you will waste
such as mat and woven roving. Both poly- some too!), or any problems with saturating
ester and epoxy resins will saturate approx- the material. If anything, these figures are
imately the same amount of material. If somewhat optimistic based on experience,
using 10-ounce fiberglass cloth, one gallon and they do assume an ideal resin/glass ratio
of resin will provide three coats of resin for which is somewhat difficult to achieve or
approximately each 40 to 45 square feet of maintain. While only two examples are
area. If using 7V2-ounce cloth, one gallon given, it would not take much effort to
can cover an area between 55 and 60 square extrapolate from these figures to suit varying
feet using three coats. material weights. If the fiberglass material
If using mat or woven roving, getting an being used is somewhat lighter, just reduce
exact estimate is difficult not only because the resin required. If it is heavier, then add
of the varying weights of material, but also somewhat more.

20

FABRIC WILL PULL
AWAY IN THESE AREAS
WRONG
SKEG COVERING
OPTIONAL
CORRECT
HOW TO UTILIZE FIBERGLASS CLOTH
In covering a boat with fiberglass cloth,
success of the job depends partly on how the
cloth is used. While a simple small boat may
be covered in a single piece of cloth, a boat of
any size or with varying contours and angles is
usually best covered in several pieces or "pan-
els" which will conform to the surfaces better.
For example, in the illustrations, the hull
section to the left has been covered from sheer
to sheer in one piece of cloth, even over a
protruding skeg. Several things are wrong with
such a practice. In the example, no corners
have been radiused which means the cloth will
pull away from these areas. Even if the corners
were radiused, there would be a problem
keeping the cloth in position in one area while
another area was being worked. Even on a
small boat, it would be very difficult to work
an area with as many surfaces as are shown
before the resin set up. In short, the job would
probablv turn out to be a mess.
The other examples {center and right) show
the correct manner in utilizing the cloth.
Whenever possible, all hull appendages should
how much will you need?
"'%
CORRECT
&) USE TWO PIECES ON
be removed and the cloth then applied after
proper hull preparation. If an appendage, such
as the skeg in the center example cannot be
removed, then at least the inside corners
should be filleted or fitted with cant strips. In
this case, the boat is covered in two halves
and a small piece of cloth used to cap the
skeg. Where the boat is fairly large, it is often
better to do the bottom in two pieces. The
reason is much like the first example. There
will be a tendency to pull the material away
from the skeg as the material is worked closer
to the chine edge, and it can be difficult to
work such an area fast enough.
The example to the right will provide the
easiest application because the appendages
are removed thereby reducing the number of
surfaces to be covered. After the application,
the appendages can be reinstalled. These can
be bedded in resin saturated scraps of fiber-
glass cloth or mat for bonding in place. If the
appendages are to be made removable, they
are best bedded in a flexible marine-type
mastic permanent bonding in place.
in lieu of
21
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
In figuring the amount of
quired, note that most resin manufacturers
provide pre-measureed containers in the
correct amount per each quantity. Some-
times they don't provide enough (because
temperatures vary depending on the geo-
graphical area), and more may be required.
In most cases, extra catalyst can be pur-
chased, but the extra amount would rarely
exceed 25% of that provided with the resin
originally.
FIGURING FIBERGLASS MATERIALS
Fiberglass materials, whether cloth, mat,
or woven roving, are usually sold by the
yard. Widths for all these materials are
usually standard, and come in 38", 44", 50"
and 60" widths. Of course, there are prob-
ably some exceptions to these sizes, and also
all may not be in stock at local
these widths
outlets. Inany case, the amount of material
required depends on several factors, such as
which direction (longitudinally or trans-
versely) the material runs, number and size
of overlaps (if any), and the widths of
material available which will affect the
manner in which the material is used.
In general, it is usually easiest to lay the
material longitudinally along a boat hull,
deck, or cabin top. However, there are
exceptions where it might be easier to set the
cloth transversely or even diagonally. An
instance where this might be the case would
be on deep-keeled sailboats. In any case, the
job will probably be easier if the materials
are utilized so as to keep the number of
joints (not the length of joints!)
minimum. And because there will be more
joints when working transversely, it is gen-
erally easier to do the job using longitudinal
joints.
In covering work, joints in fiberglass cloth
should always be overlapped at least 4"
wherever possible. Butt joints, especially in
a single layer of cloth, should not be made.
However, when using the heavier materials,
such as mat and woven roving, for example,
22
. . .
catalyst re- more easily made, and should
butt joints are
always be made when two or more layers of
these materials will be used. So in figuring
the amount of fiberglass cloth required,
determine extra material for any lap joints
where required.
The way the material is utilized will vary
with the hull form (for hull covering work),
as well as the widths of material available.
For example, on some small round-bilge
hulls, it may be possible to cover the entire
hull in a single width of cloth without joints.
On larger round-bilge hulls, an overlap joint
can be made along the centerline at the keel
and a single width used around the half girth
of the hull up to the sheer rails. With small
hard-chine hulls, it may be possible to also
get by with a single width of cloth for both
the bottom and the sides. But, with larger
hard-chine boats, it is usually more conven-
ient to figure two widths of cloth for the
bottom, overlapping along the keel center-
line and lapping over the chine onto the
sides, and then using two widths (one for
each side), which will overlap onto the
bottom at the chines. Remember, wide
widths of cloth can be cut lengthwise to
make any number of smaller widths that may
be required. Ordinarily, figure the length
required by actually measuring along the
hull in one directon only. Do not try to
measure the cloth and figure what the exact
shape of the cloth piece will be in the hopes
of saving material. In other words, put a tape
measure along, for example the keel or
sheer, and buy the material in this length in
at least the maximum width needed to cover
the area PLUS allowances for overlaps along
to a the longitudinal direction of the cloth if
required. Allow an extra foot for overlaps at
each end, plus, if the boat has a transom
stern, or appendage keel, figure enough
material for these areas as well. Be sure to
allow enough material for DOUBLE LAPS
when using cloth; that is, at the transom for
example, the bottom and side cloth will lap
over onto the transom, while the transom
covering will lap over onto the sides and
bottom.
 resins

HOW THICK?
The chart below is included to give some for most work. The chart is given only for
ideahow thick the various materials will be reference purposes; for example, if you want

when laid up. For materials which are to buildup a laminate to a certain thickness,
heavier or lighter in weight, extrapolate from or if you want to figure what materials or
the figures given and arrive at an approx- how much to use to build up to a certain
imate figure which should be close enough thickness.

FIBERGLASS THICKNESS WITH RESIN

Number of layers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
2oz.mat .058" .116" .175" .237" .299" .361" .423"
24 oz. woven roving .036" .071" .109" .147" .185" .223" .262"
10 oz. cloth .016" .032 .048" .064" .080" .095" .111"

Variations of plus or minus 10 percent may occur with mat, somewhat less with
woven roving and cloth.

NOTE: To convert the above figures to ordinary fractions or

metric approximations:
1/64" = .016' or .4 mm
1/32" = .031' or .8 mm
1/16" = .063' or 1.6 mm
1/8" = .125' or 3.2 mm
1/4" = .25" or 6.4 mm

23
 CHAPTER 5 . . .
The tools and equipment required will
vary depending on the size of the boat being
worked on, as well as the complexity of the
job at hand. If merely sheathing the exterior
of a new small plywood hull, for example,
not as many tools or as much equipment and
supplies will be required as if recovering a
largeexisting hull which might require
modifications for a suitable fiberglass appli-
cation. Because of possible variations such
as this, specific tools cannot
mended for all tools and
jobs. Instead,
equipment will be discussed in some detail
and then the reader can decide what will be
required for his particular application. After
reading what follows, it will be easier to
determine the tools and equipment, as well
as the amount of supplies, that will be
necessary to do a particular job. The
the end of this chapter can be used as a guide
in preparing for the job and checking to see
that all equipment, and supplies
tools,
be provided and ready to use.
SANDERS & SANDPAPER
If you're the he-man type or a brute for
punishment, it is conceivable that any areas
could be hand sanded as required, espe-
cially if the job being done is small or not of
much consequence. But even working on a
small boat, a lot of blood, sweat and tears
will be saved by using power sanders.
Naturally, because the boat can't be taken to
the equipment in most cases, you should use
the hand portable type, either electric or
pneumatic powered.
There are generally three types of power
sanders; these being belt sanders, disc
24
tools & equipment
sanders, and finish sanders with either
reciprocating action, orbital action, or both.
If you don't have these machines, they can
usually be rented, or you might be able to
borrow them if you're lucky enough to know
someone who has them. In any case, get the
most rugged equipment available because
some using sanders in fiberglass work is a real
heavy-duty job. The cheap, lightweight
equipment commonly being sold at dis-
be recom- count stores just won't stand up to the
arduous continuous-duty use required in
fiberglassing, so try to get good equipment,
preferably "commercial quality" machines.
Depending on the job being done, all
three types of sanders may be required
(you'll work a lot less on any job if you have
all three types), or it may be possible to get
list at by using only one sander. If you must narrow
your choice to one type of sander, a disc
sander will probably be the most versatile.
will This type is perfect for feathering the edges
of fiberglass material, grinding down unfair
surfaces, and trimming hardened edges. A
disc sander does, however, take some
practice in using as is easy to gouge the
it
surface and take off too much material.
Practice a little first if you've never used one
before.
Belt sanders are ideal for removing old
paint during surface preparation. Belt san-
ders also can be used to smooth out uneven
surfaces, and they too will remove a lot of
material rapidly. As with a disc sander, a
little practice is required to keep from
gouging the surface. In using belt sanders, I
prefer a heavy machine which won't skip
around, attempting to hold the sander so the
sanding belt can do the job without bearing
 tools & equipment
down much on the surface. A more even aluminum oxide paper is a dark gray or
surface resultsif you work the machine back brown and black speckled color, and the
and forth instead of from side to side, being silicon carbide paper is sort of a charcoal
careful to keep the sanding surface as level color. While aluminum oxide and silicon
as possible. carbide sandpapers are quite expensive
remove much mater-
Finish sanders don't initially, they will hold their grit much longer
ialand for this reason, they can be used with and not load up as quickly as other types,
a heavy hand on fiberglass work without fear and therefore are worth the added cost.
of damaging the surface. This feature makes The question of what degree of grit
their use quite suitable for the inexper- (coarseness or fineness) of sandpaper to
ienced, but conversely, you'll spend a lot of buy, as well as how much, will depend on
time using one if you want to remove a lot of the size of job and the quality of finish
material or make an unfair surface smooth. desired. In buying sandpaper, there's a
However, for final finish work they are number on the back of the paper telling the
almost a necessity, especially on large areas. degree of coarseness (or fineness) of the
Although many good quality sanders have paper. The larger the number, thefiner is the
dust bags attached, there will still be a lot of sandpaper. For example, a#25 paper is quite
dust flying about, and because this dust will coarse, while a #600 paper (often referred to
probably be filled with fine glass particles, as a "wet-or-dry" type) is very fine and
always wear a sanding mask. There are intended for final finish work where an
several types of these available at low prices, exceptionally clear, glossy, and smooth
some of which are disposable. In the event surface is desired.
that you don't have a sanding mask, at least Regarding the amount of sandpaper to
wrap a cloth around your face several times buy, about all that can be said is to buy as
so you won't breath an excessive amount of much as you can afford. You'll probably
dust. need MORE LATER! Get a good selection of
Most jobs will still require a generous varying grits for the finish sander if one is
amount of hand-sanding even though power being used. These could range from say a
sanders can be used. This is especially true #80 up through a #220, with a few sheets of
around corner areas where power equip- each grade between. For a disc or belt sander
ment will easily grind too much material probably one or two coarse grit papers
away, or in areas too small or confined for somewhere between a #25 and #50 will
power equipment, or in some cases where it suffice for all but finish work. In any case,
may actually be easier to hand sand. For don't be afraid of buying too much sand-
hand-sanding a good sanding block comes paper as it can always be used in the future
in handy although sandpaper can be anyway especially if you are a boatowner or
wrapped around any suitably sized block of hobbyist.
wood.
For fiberglass work, there are really only
SHAPING TOOLS
two kinds of sandpaper to buy. These are the
aluminum oxide type or the silicon carbide Depending on the job, some tools may be
type. If the sandpaper does not state what it required for shaping not only wood mem-
is made from, the color will
tell. Ordinary bers to be fiberglassed, but also various
flintpaper (often sold in grocery stores!) is a shaped, curved, or filleted areas made from
lighttan color, while garnet paper is reddish- filled polyester resin or putty. For wood-
orange. Both of these types are commonly work these can include wood rasps, wood-
used in woodworking, but will wear out working files, and wood planes. Some of the
quickly when used for fiberglass work. The best tools in my opinion are the various

25
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
surface forming toolsmade by Stanley under
the "Surform" (I hate to mention
label
specific products because the next thing you
know, Universal Widget will comeout with a
better product next month and be offended
at me for not waiting to publish the book and
noting their "super new tool").
An ordinary putty knife will be required
for working with putty and filler. Shaping
can be done with the edge of a suitably
fillets
radiused tin can or lid, or even the back side
of aspoon. I'm sure you'll be able to think of
other shaping devices, but the point is to
have them ready when needed if the job
requires them.
FILLERS & PUTTY
For filling small holes, minor imperfec-
tions, and countersunk screw holes,
the many non-oil base wood putties avail-
able under several brand names can be used.
These dry rapidly, don't shrink (at least
much!), and sand easily. Just make sure that
they don't contain any oil! Resin won't stick
to them if they do. For larger areas where
filler or putty is required, one of the many
polyester putties can be used. Many
types readily available automotive parts
in
supplies are suitable for marine use also.
These putties are sometimes a little hard to
sand and work with as opposed to other
types, and also a little more expensive. You
can make your own putty or filler with a
combination of plastic resin or resorcinol
glue, or resin with sawdust or chopped
strands of fiberglass for much surface prep-
aration work.A resin filler can be made with
Microballoons or Microspheres also, as will
be noted in Chapter 7.
APPLICATION TOOLS
Tools used for applying fiberglass mater-
ialsconsist mainly of brushes, rollers, and
squeegees. In these three categories, there
are many types and sizes of each available,
and it is not possible to specifically tell what
26
types you should have. However, here are
some guidelines to use in selecting tools for
application of fiberglass and resin.
When buying brushes, make sure the
handles are BARE wood, UNpainted. If the
handles are painted, chances are the resin
will eat off the paint and it will be tracked
along in the resin causing a mess. Don't use
old paint brushes either as the resin will
attack the old paint within the brush and
mess up the resin. Use new brushes or
well-cleaned brushes previously used with
resin only. All brushes should have NATUR-
AL bristles which are fairly stiff. Here again,
resin will attack and soften many synthetic
bristle types. Don't worry about getting fine
quality bristles as these are usually too
flexible anyway and you'll probably wind up
throwing the brush away when you're done.
one of In short, get the cheapest fairly short natural
bristle brush available with an unpainted
handle. A brush width from 3" to 4" is
usually adequate.
Many types of rollers can be used in
applying resin. Probably the most common
type is the ordinary mohair paint roller. Use
the ones which have a cardboard core. It is a
of the good idea to have a couple of roller elements
around so a fresh roller will be ready while
one isthe cleaning solvent. In selecting a
in
consider one which can be fitted with
roller,
an extension handle if working on a large
area. Some have plastic parts and
rollers
handles which may be softened with resin or
other solvents. Unfortunately, there will
probably be no way of knowing what plastic
this will be beforehand, so if possible, try to
find a roller with a wood handle without
plastic parts.
For applying fiberglass chopped strand
mat, a metal serrated disc roller is ideal.
They are, however, expensive, but worth it.
They come in many sizes and shapes for use
on flat surfaces, outside corners, and inside
corners, and many have wood handles
which can be fitted with extensions. There
are also many mohair paint rollers available
for special application purposes also, such

as for corner work or around moldings, etc.
Squeegees come in many sizes and mater-
ials also. A size about 6" wide is good for
most boat work, although a wider one may
be more suitable on large areas. Here again,
some can be fitted with an extensoin handle,
but one of the handiest ones I've seen is
simply a 6" x 3" piece of semi-flexible
vinyl-rubber with a tapered edge which is
held by hand. These are inexpensive, easy to
clean, and not affected by resin or ketone
solvents such as acetone.
PROTECTIVE CLOTHING & GEAR
Some people are not affected by working
with fiberglass and resin, while others just
can't stand to be around it any form. Some
in
people break out in rashes and scratch and
itch for a week or more afterward. Most
people have a reaction somewhere between
This serrated metal roller is used specifically
for the application of fiberglass mat. While
more costly than ordinary mohair paint rollers,
the mat roller is virtually indispensable for the
proper wetting out and effective bonding of
mat. The serrations prevent dragging the mat
to shreds as happens with a squeegee, and
does not pull the free strands around as occurs
with a mohair roller. Other versions of this
roller are available specifically for contoured
areas, and inside or outside corners.
tools & equipment
these two extremes but do consider protec-
if you
tive clothing a necessity, especially
have not worked with the materials before.
Luckily, I'm not much affected when
working with fiberglass materials except for
a slight amount of itching while sanding and
when working with epoxy resins. However,
my hands are affected by the use of some
cleaningsolvents. For these reasons, I like to
use polyethylene gloves, both during resin
application and when cleaning up. These
gloves come a package
in roll of a dozen and
are thin enough so you can still feel what
you're doing, and can be used for quite some
time before discarding. Some people don't
like gloves but they sure make cleaning up
easier as well as saving a lot of cleaning
solvent.
Another item which is used to protect the
skin is barrier cream. The cream is rubbed on
the skin and it supposedly keeps the irritants
from entering the pores. Soap or detergent
and water do not wash off the barrier cream;
it wears off the skin eventually as the old skin
cells wear off. Instead of wearing barrier
cream, most exposed skin can be protected
by wearing long sleeved shirts and gloves.
By all means wear some kind of eye
protection when using either resins or the
various cleaning solvents and thinners.
These can be ordinary glasses, safety gog-
gles, or a safety face mask. Getting resin in
the eyes and getting it out again is a painful
experience that can do permanent damage,
so it's best to get an ounce of prevention
beforehand.
Naturally, when selecting gear and cloth-
ing to use while working with resin and
fiberglass, use the oldest and sloppiest junk
clothing available because you will probably
end up throwing it all away when the job is
done. Cured resin cannot be removed from
clothing.
MIXING CONTAINERS
You can go to your local fiberglass
supplier and buy special uncoated paper
27
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
pre-measured buckets intended specifically
for resin if you like. However, it's cheaper to
use waxed paper cups available at any
market as long as they are big enough, or use
ordinary coffee cans. The best thing can
think of is to cut the top off of old plastic
bleach and ammonia bottles. Most of these
are not affected by resin or solvents. These
plastic bottles can be used over and over,
because once the leftover resin inside cures,
it will break free from the container and
literally fall Of course, if too much
out.
leftover resinremains in them, the heat
generated from setting up might melt the
plastic.
Don't try to use Styrofoam containers or
other plastic drinking cups for mixing resin
as the resin will fall right out the bottom.
These plastics are dissolved by styrene as
well as acetone and other solvents. In any
case, have enough containers to do the job.
Figure on at least four mixing containers per
each gallon of resin (for example). A quart of
resin at a time is about all that most
inexperienced workers will be able to work
once the resin has been catalyzed.
CLEAN-UP
Acetone is probably the most common
cleaning solvent used for fiberglass work but
don'tthink it's the best. It's sometimes hard
I
to find and has become rather expensive.
The big problem with acetone is that it
evaporates so fast, and large quantities are
required. Besides this, it's hard on the skin
for some people and highly volatile. A better
cleaning solvent in my opinion is lacquer
thinner. It does not evaporate very vast and
seems to work better in my opinion. Some-
times the resin will settle in acetone and
eventually set-up, but this does not seem to
occur with lacquer thinner.
have been told by chemists that lacquer
I
thinner contains toluene or xylene and these
are the solvent ingredients. It may be
possible to purchase them under their names
"toluene" or "xylene," but if you purchase
28
. . .
from a local paint store the clerk might look
at you kind of funny, as he's probably never
heard of them. But, lacquer thinner, he'll
probably have plenty of that!
I Another solvent which have not used but
I
have heard works well is methyl isobutyl
ketone. understand that this solvent is
I
commonly sold by fiberglass suppliers and
may be referred to as some brand name of
solvent. Whichever solvents are used, al-
ways keep them in metal containers.
Probably the best cleaning agents are the
many products available under various trade
names and commonly referred to as "resin
cleaners." While fairly expensive, these
concoctions take very do the job.
little to
Some are available as and others as a
a paste
liquid. prefer the liquid type which consists
I
of a detergent solution with methyl ethyl
ketone (M-E-K). Just pour a small amount
on, work it in well, and then wash off with
water. For cleaning rollers, it's much easier
and more economical than other solvents,
and tends to make the roller softer when dry.
If you can find it, by all means use one of
these products. They save money and
solvent in the long run. Otherwise, keep a
pail of water around with ordinary detergent
to wash up hands and tools after cleaning in
solvents.
MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT
Use an old pair of scissors to cut fiberglass
materials. Don't use a good pair as cutting
fiberglass will dull the edge rapidly. Besides
that, it's easy to get resin into the blade and
jam them up if you're not careful, especially
when working with epoxy resins. Also get a
good utility knife for trimming fiberglass
material just before the resin sets up. A
staple gun and/or tacks will come in handy
for tacking fiberglass materials in position.
Masking tape and old newspaper can be
used to mask off areas to prevent resin from
running onto them where it is not intended.
Also have plenty of stirring sticks around for
mixing up resin and catalyst or pigments.
 tools & equipment

Once a batch of resin has been mixed, throw finished wood deck, oryou wantto finish off
the stick away and get a new one formixing the job and have a yacht-like surface, a
the next batch If not done, a glob of buffer and accessories for the buffing opera-
semi-cured resin will fall off the old stick and tion may be desired.
into the fresh batch of resin.
It the job must be done in cold temper-
TOOL & EQUIPMENT LIST
atures (say anywhere less than 60°) try to
heat the area if possible. You can use The following tools and equipment are
portable heaters, heat lamps, or even bare used for various applications of fiberglass
light bulbs if the area enough.
is small materials and resins. The list can vary
Beware, however, as these could be a fire depending on the size of the job, the types of
hazard depending on the use of such materials being used, the surface being
equipment. Because of the danger of fire worked on, as well as to suit the desires of
when working with any fiberglassing mater- the workers. Consult the text for more details
ials and solvents, always keep a fire extin- on options and alternatives which exist in
guisher handy. If the job being done will order to determine the tools and equipment
require a high gloss, such as a natural best suited to the particular job at hand.

TOOL & EQUIPMENT LIST

Paint remover, water-base Polyethylene disposable gloves

Belt sander with several sanding belts Barrier cream
Disc sander with several assorted sanding Protective clothing
discs Eye protection gear (glasses, goggles, or
Finish sander, reciprocating or orbital face mask)
Sandpaper, several sheets of assorted grits Mixing containers and buckets
Sanding block Cleaning solvent (see text)

Sanding mask Resin cleaner solution

Wood rasps, files, plane, or other surface Detergent and water with bucket
forming tools Scissors
Putty knife Utility knife or razor blade knife
Non-oil base wood putty Staple gun, tacks, or masking tape
Resin filler, Microballoons or Micro- Newspaper (not for reading!)
spheres
Stirring sticks
Brushes, natural bristle, bare wood
Fire extinguisher
handles
Portable heaters or heat lamps
Rollers, mohair-paint-type and serrated-
metal-mat-type with handles Buffing equipment

Squeegees Floor protection tarps or paper.

29
 CHAPTER 6 . . .

fiberglassing old boats

Before going into the actual "how-to" and the planks tend to shrink when the boat
process of fiberglassing, a discussion is in is removed from the water, and to expand

order regarding the use of fiberglass mater- when the boat is returned to the water, all
ials on existing old boats because many with a consequent tendency for the material
readers may want to protect their boats with to split and crack at the seams. The same
fiberglass in addition to those who want to problem occurs with lapstrake or "clinker"
use the materials on new boats. In covering construction, and for these reasons, two
old or previously painted boats with fiber- layers of cloth should always be used on
glass cloth and resin, the most critical step in carvel or lapstrake boats, even though this is
a satisfactory application proper prepara-
is not a guarantee that the job will be success-
tion of the surface. In all cases, the fiberglass ful. Also, if there is any doubt about the

and resin must be appled ONLY over a adhesion of the resin on an old hull surface,
surface that is clean, dry, and free of old an epoxy resin should be automatically
paint, varnish, dirt or grease. selected in lieu of polyester resins. Also,
For boats of wood or plywood construc- epoxy resins are more flexible than most
tion, polyester resincan be used, although polyester resins so the tendency to crack at
as previously noted, epoxy resin should be seams is reduced.
used over dense, physically hard woods such
as oak or teak, or woods which contain
HULL PREPARATION -OLD WOOD
elements that prevent the proper bonding of
BOATS
the resin, such as redwood and western red
cedar. For boats of aluminum or steel, only To make the fiberglass and resin applica-
epoxy resins should be used as the polyester remove all appendages such as
tion easier,
types will not adhere as well to these skegs, external keels, rubbing strakes, and
surfaces. However, covering aluminum and rails, if possible. Also remove hardware
all

steelboats with fiberglass and resin is such as mooring cleats, metal rub rails, and
seldom done, except for localized repair similar fittings. Remember that fiberglass
work and to seal seams or other leaking materials and resin must be applied only
areas. over a clean, dry, and bare wood surface.
Fiberglassing of wood boats is most This means ALL existing paint, varnish,
that
done on
satisfactorily stable hull types such oil, dirt, or grease must be removed if the

as plywood planked boats, strip planked material is to bond The best method (but
boats, and double or triple diagonally not the easiest!) to sand with coarse
is

planked hulls. Boats planked in the conven- sandpaper preferably using portable power
tional methods, such as carvel, can be done tools.
with varying degrees of results from success The fastest power tool for this purpose is

to failure, with the latter being more either a disc or a belt sander. These tools do
common. The problem is that these planking require careful use as previously noted, for
methods are sensitive to moisture changes they do remove a lot of material in short

30

order and it is consequently easy to gouge
the surface accidentally. A power finish
sander with orbital or reciprocal action is
much easier to use, but you'll probably not
be able to remove any but a very loose finish
with this tool and at a slow rate. There is a
tendency to over-sand Douglas fir plywood
causing the surface to develop "hills" and
"valleys" due to the grain pattern in the ply
construction of the outer laminations. For a
smooth surface which is flat and level, this
over-sanding must be avoided. The outer
veneers of some hardwood veneer plywoods
are quite thin and care should be taken not
to sand through these.
A "water rinse" paint remover can be used
to remove paint conjunction with sand-
in
ing, especially paint which has a
with
tenacious grip or has been built up with
many coats. Do NOT use ordinary paint
removers which contain waxes, oils, or other
petroleum products as these will be ab-
sorbed into the wood and prevent proper
bonding of the resin. When using the "water
rinse" type of remover, be SURE that all
traces of the remover are washed away as
any residue remaining will cause problems
with bonding. Surfaces can be washed with
detergent and water, lye solution, or ace-
tone. Be sure also that the surface is
ABSOLUTELY dry before applying the fiber-
glass material and resin. Do NOT use a
blowtorch to removeold paint. The heat will
drive the oil solvents from the old paint and
fuse theminto the wood fibers. Also, do
NOT use oil based solvents such as gasoline
or paint thinners to remove oil or grease
spots. Oil and grease should be removed
with a mild solution of detergent and water
or carbon "tet" (be careful as this is toxic and
do NOT use it to remove paint!).
Remove all LOOSE putty and caulking
materials,and tighten all loose planks and
boards. All screw holes and other minor
imperfections should be filled with an
oil-free hard-setting wood putty. All seams
. fiberglassing old boats
between planks on conventionally wood
planked hulls should be re-caulked using a
non-oil compound. For large areas requiring
filling,use one of the fiberglass resin putties
available ready-made, or make your own
filling material with resin and chopped
strands of fiberglass cloth or mat, or Micro-
bailons, or Microspheres (see Chapter 7).
All crisp outside cornersshould be radi-
used as much as possible. With some boat
styles this can be a problem and even a
detriment to performance. For example,
planked wood boats using the lapstrake or
"clinker" method which present the alter-
nating inside and outside edge of each
successive plank are extremely difficult if
not impractical to cover with fiberglass cloth
and resin unless each strake corner is gently
radiused and each inside corner built up
with a cant strip or fillet of resin putty or
filler material. Then too, the job will be
somewhat easier (or at least more practical)
if the cloth used is lighter in weight, say no
more than 1
a 7 /2-ounce type.
Also, on high-speed boats such as hydro-
planes and planing hulls, edges along the
bottom, especially at the transom or along
sponsons, should be kept as crisp as pos-
sible. In areas of inside corners such as at
skegs or along the deadwood (where these
appendages cannot be removed), the inside
corner should be fitted with a cant strip or a
generously rounded fillet (see Chapter 7).
One note of caution should be noted on
plywood boats with relatively thin planking
(say Va" or less). It is sometimes difficult to
radius an outside corner enough as the
fastenings may be in the way. It is also easy
to take away too much of the plywood
laminations, so be careful when radiusing
corners on this type of planking. Also, on old
wood and if
boats, inspect for areas of rot,
detected, the rotted area should be removed
and replaced or otherwise repaired with one
of the many rot prevention and repair kits
available for this purpose.
31
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
HULL PREPARATION-ALUMINUM
& STEEL BOATS
Modern technology has advanced the
quality and durability of coating systems
and construction methods used in building
boats of steel and aluminum to the point
where covering these hulls with fiberglass
cloth and resin would be largely a waste of
time, work, and money. However, in older
hulls where the metal shelf plating has
become damaged or thin as a result
corrosion, new life can be given by localized
covering and repair using fiberglass mater-
ials in association with various resin formu-
lations, preferably of the epoxy type. .
Metal hulls which have become dented or
—. .
ZT-,
x$^
*± '••/- :?~yV?
~_:
WOOD PLANKING TYPES & THEIR SUITA-
BILITY FOR COVERING WITH FIBERGLASS
CLOTH
The success of covering wood boats with
fiberglass cloth and resin depends primarily on
the stability of the planking method used.
Wood planking methods which expand and
contract more with variations in moisture
content are more prone to cracking and de-
laminating the fiberglass covering than stable
planking types. The illustration lists common
wood planking methods, with the most stable
types at the top of the list. The order that the
different methods are given is roughly the
order of the degree of success that can be
expected from the particular application. The
judgment of the stability of a particular plank-
ing method is subjective and can vary consid-
erably depending on the boat, the type and
quality of the wood used, the structural sound-
ness, and the actual use of the boat,
(a) STABLE— Plywood sheet, double or
32
.
otherwise deformed in localized areas can
often be brought back to shape with a
combination of ordinary auto body repair
techniques to reshape the area, and a
surface filling coat of epoxy-type body fillers
used to smooth out the area. There are many
products available for just such purposes,
and they are usually available through auto
body repair equipment distributors. Always
of follow to the letter the instructions provided
by the manufacturers of these products.
Holes metal hulls can be repaired with
in
fiberglass resin much the same as holes
and
in wood or fiberglass hulls. Much has been
written about repairing boats and since this
diagonally applied plywood or solid wood,
or "Ashcroft" planking methods present
few problems with fiberglass cloth appli-
cations.Two layers of cloth should be
used on all but sheet plywood planking,
which can usually be made with a single
layer of a suitable weight of cloth.
[b] STABLE— Strip planking, usually glued and
edge fastened. Faying surface {joint be-
tween planks) may vary from that shown.
Presents few problems with fiberglass cloth
applications. One or two layers can be
used, depending on the size of the boat,
cloth weight, and durability requirements.
[c] VARIABLE— Batten seam planking. Two
layers of fiberglass cloth should be used.
Best results come with narrow planks of
good quality wood solidly backed up and
fastened.
[d] VARIABLE— Double planked hulls. Two
layers of fiberglass cloth should be used.
triple Best results come with narrow planks of

is not the topic of the text, these procedures
will not be covered. The most important step
in the application of fiberglass and resin on
metal hulls, as with wood hulls, is surface
preparation To achieve a satisfactory bond,
. well.
the surface must be taken down to the bare
metal All paint, rust, oil, grease, and dirt
must be removed. Various paint removers
can be used as long as all traces are
removed. Surface paint on metal hulls can
also be removed by other mechanical means
such as a disc sander with coarse paper, or
powered paint chipping machines.
If equipment is available, the metal hull
surfaces can be sandblasted down to the
good quality wood well fastened and
bonded to the inner planking, and secured
to a sound structure.
(e) VARIABLE— Shiplap planking. Not too
common, but two layers of fiberglass cloth
should be used. Best results come with
narrow or thick planks of good quality
wood over a sound structure.
(0 VARIABLE — Tongue-in-groove. Not com-
monly used for hull planking, but some-
times used for decking. Two layers of
should be used. Best re-
fiberglass cloth
sults come
with narrow or thick planks of
good quality wood over a sound structure.
(g) UNSTABLE— Carvel planking. Wide planks,
poor wood, cupping, severe contraction and
expansion are common problems prevent-
ing a successful application. Two layers of
fiberglass cloth should always be used.
Epoxy resins together with other materials
such as Vectra or Dynel {Chapters 10 and 7 7)
will give better results.
[h) UNSTABLE— Lapstrake or "clinker" plank-
. fiberglassing old boats
bare metal and the application of resin and
fiberglass material can be done immediately
following. Any zinc or galvanized protective
coatings must be removed from steel hulls as
On aluminum hulls, the entire surface
should be washed with fresh water after
preparation to remove dust, but the surface
should not be touched by bare hands or
otherwise contaminated by any dirt. With
metal hulls, proper bonding can only be
assured if the resin is applied as soon as the
bare metal surface has been exposed. If you
have to wait (even overnight) to apply the
material, the hull surfaces must again be
cleaned and dried before applying the resin.
ing. Not recommended for covering with
fiberglass cloth. Hull type tends to "work" or
flex too much. Wide planks, poor wood,
cupping, severe contraction and expansion
are common problems. Covering alternating
inside and outside corner of plank virtually
impractical unless well radiused and/or
fitted with cant strips. Use epoxy resins with
Dynel for best results.
In any of the above wood planking methods,
if there is any question regarding the stability of
the wood planking method, it may be best to
select another sheathing material, such as
Vectra or Dynel, which will "stretch" more
with the wood than will fiberglass cloth. This
especially applies to the unstable and variable
tvpes. Also, it is best to use epoxy resins in
these cases due to their greater flexibility. In
all cases where adhesion may be a problem,
regardless of the planking method, epoxy res-
ins should be used with fiberglass, Vectra, or
Dvnel.
33
 CHAPTER 7 . . .

how to use the materials

GETTING READY EOR THE JOB fection that was somehow overlooked
and now discovered after the catalyst
It might seem a little trivial to make a
has been added to the resin. For ease of
special section on getting ready for the job.
application, try to have the hull up-
But it's surprising how many fiberglassing
sidedown if covering a hull. The more
jobs have been botched up simply because a
horizontal any surface is, the easier the
little thought and organization was not done
application and the better the surface
before the job got underway. A little careful
will come out.
planning at this stage can help assure that
everything will go smoothly once the work 3. Pick a suitable area to do the job.
begins. After all, once the catalyst is added Avoid working in direct sunlight as the
to the resin, it's on its way and it won't wait heat will speed the cure, and perhaps
for you if it is necessary to run around and cause undue shrinkage or other de-
look for a paint brush or roller that has fects. If possible, do the work under
suddenly been misplaced. So, plan ahead! It cover, or at least in the shade. Have
is often desirable to make a checklist of plenty of ventilation and good light,

everything that will be required. The points
below can be used to help prepare for the job
ahead. Let me emphasize at the outset that if
instructions are followed, it is almost impos-
sible to make a mistake when working with
fiberglass materials and resin
NOT BE CORRECTED; and by planning
but avoid extreme fan-forced air circu-
lation devices or windy conditions
which might "dry" the solvent from the
resin.
4. Pick the best weather conditions and
WHICH CAN- allow enough time to do the job. Start
in the morning preferably, with temp-

ahead most errors can be prevented before eratures ranging between 70° and 85°,
they do occur. and with as low humidity as possible
1 Have all tools and supplies ready to go (no rain!). If the work must be done in
and handy. Try to have a proper place colder temperatures (under 60°.) buy
for everything, and arranged so the resin mixed with a cold weather addi-
fiberglass material will remain clean tive, if available (although this cold
and not become inadvertently soiled weather additive is usually just a larger
or spattered with resin. Have plenty of amount of cobalt napthanate which
everything so it won't be necessary to may be available for addition by the
chase around for something when it user as well). If the temperature is

might be needed the most. OVER 85°, experiment a little with the
resin/catalyst mix to determine how
2. Prepare the surface as noted previously
much LESS catalyst will be required for
for old existing boats, or as noted in the
proper working times.
following for new boats. Check the
surface carefully so it won't be neces- 5. Cut and fit material before application
sary to fill a screw hole or other imper- at least to rough oversize in order to

34
 how to use the materials

make sure there will be enough mater- applying various fiberglass materials and
ial to do the job. The material, how- working with resins on boats. Due to the
ever, can be cut to exact size after it many variables in methods, materials, and
has been applied as will be noted surface applications, it is not possible to
further in this chapter provide "step-by-step" procedures for every
situation.What IS provided is the technical
6. Divide the catalyst container in some
and practical information required to com-
manner if this has not been done by the
plete just about any project which entails
manufacturer. One way to do this is to
the surface application of fiberglass mater-
put a strip of masking tape on the con-
ials and resin, or even the building up of
tainer and mark off equal increments
fiberglass laminates as used in male mold
for the number of resin batches per
"one-off" boats described in Part II. While
each container of resin.
most of the information provided is basic to
7. Pour the container of resin into smaller surface applications on wood or plywood
mixing containers of equal increments. boats, the principles are applicable to other
One quart of resin is about as much as materials as well, whether they be steel,
can be used by ONE person in a 20-to- aluminum, fiberglass, or other composite
30-minute period before the resin materials to which resins will bond.
starts to gel. By having the resin
divided before starting, a new batch
POLYESTER RESIN SELECTION
can be catalyzed without delay so the
& HANDLING
application can be a continuous oper-
ation. For each gallon of resin, have no In Chapter 3, it was noted that there are
LESS than four mixing containers hold- two basic types of resin used in boat work:
ing no more than one quart of resin Polyesters and epoxies. Since most resins
ready to mix with catalyst. If using used in boat work are the polyester type, this
epoxy resin, some formulations come type will be discussed first. Also, as was
in two equal parts, which means that emphasized in Chapter 3, there are two basic
the total volume of containers must types of polyester resins: Those which
equal somewhat MORE than the total contain wax (called "finishing" resin), and
amount combined. For
of both parts those which do NOT contain wax (called
example, a pint can of epoxy resin and "laminating" resin). During the fiberglass
a pint can of hardener will require at application, usually several coats of resin
least one mixing container that is will be applied, especially for covering
slightly larger than one quart. work. Many resin suppliers have therefore
developed special resin systems designed for
8. Have all clean-up materials and equip-
the sequential application of the various
ment ready at all times. It is far easier
coats of resin. For example, one supplier will
to remove any resin before it begins to
"formulate" three resins for his system which
set than after. A bucket of water and
might include a "laminating" resin for the
strong solution of detergent plus sol-
initial coat, a "sanding" resin for the next
vents and resin cleaner will not only
coat (or "flow" coat as it is sometimes
protect the tools, but also your skin.
called), and a final "finish" resin for the
surface coat. The first coat uses a wax-free
resin, while the latter two coats use a resin
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER . . .

which contains wax. The so-called "sand-

What follows in the balance of this ing" resin is another type of finish resin
just
chapter is the actual "how-to" methods of in this case, but is formulated to "sand

35

z
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
easier." Actually, all this variety often tends
to confuse the beginner and it is hoped that
this section will help clarify matters.
The point to make is to state that any
first
covering work with fiberglass can be done
with EITHER laminating resin OR finish resin
as long as certain rules are followed.
however, generally easier to use a laminat-
ing resin for the initial coats than it is to use a
finish resin. The wax in the finish resin used
to'lock out" theairso the resin will set hard,
rises to the surface due to the heat generated
during the cure. This wax must be removed
in order to obtain a good bond if additional
coats of resin are required over a previously
applied coat of finish resin. After all, wax is
"greasy" and resin won't bond to grease,
correct? True enough, but there is
nical"contingency" to this situation which
we found in our experimentation and re-
search for this book, and have confirmed
with various resin experts and chemists.
This "contingency" concerns the fact that
WITHIN A TWO HOUR PERIOD under
normal application temperatures, the wax is
still fluid or "soft" enough so that additional
coats of resin containing wax can be applied
directly over the initial surface
LONG AS THE SUR-
bonding problems AS
AND VIGOROUSLY
FACE IS LIBERALLY
WASHED DOWN WITH SOLVENT. The
solvent can be acetone, lacquer thinner,
toluene, or xylene. prefer lacquer thinner
I surface, which could interfere with the bond
containing toluene because it does not
evaporate as rapidly as acetone, and it is
easy to find. By applying the second resin
coat within this time period, the wax is still
able to float to the surface of the second
coat. However, if a longer period transpires
before applying the second coat, for exam-
ple one or two days, not only should the
surface be washed down with solvent, but
the surface should be sanded as well to
remove the wax, as it will be hard by this
time. The reason for washing down the
surfaceis that it makes sanding easier, keeps
the paper from loading up so much, and
prevents the heat generated during sanding
36
from driving the wax back into the surface.
After washing the surface with solvent, it
will tend to be tacky, but this soon disap-
pears and the surface seems hard again. Let
this "tackiness" go away before starting to
sand the surface. Since it is difficult on an
It IS, object as large as a boat to keep applying
resin within the two hour limit, the preced-
ing should not be considered "normal
procedure." It is still recommended that the
surface be sanded at least lightly as it will
assure a positive bond between the resin and
fiberglass material when using finish resin
for all coats.
Laminating resin, on the other hand,
contains no wax, and because of this the
surface will not cure COMPLETELY in the
a tech- presence of air. Especially on a warm day, or
if over catalyzed, surfaces coated with
laminating resin may seem to have cured
after many hours, but there will always be a
certain degree of tackiness remaining which
can be checked by pushing hard with your
thumb or thumb nail. This quality of
laminating resin allows successive coats of
resin to be applied with no surface prepara-
tion, providing the surface has not been
without contaminated with dirt or dust. If some time
does occur before applying another coat
over a previously applied coat, it is a good
idea to wash the surface with solvent just in
case any dirt or dust has landed on the
of the next coat.
In fiberglass covering work, the final resin
coat, or the "finish" coat surface must be
allowed to cure, and it is for this reason that
finish resin containing wax is usually used
for this coat. However, laminating resin can
still be used for this coat also BY DOING
ONE OF TWO THINGS. Obviously, to have
the resin surface cure, the air must be
"locked out." One way to "lock out" the air
when the final coat of laminating resin has
been applied is to spray or brush the partially
cured surface with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)
solution. An even coating of PVA is not
important, and once the resin cures com-

COVERING A BOAT HULL WITH FIBERGLASS
CLOTH
This series of photographs shows the basic
procedure of covering a boat hull with fiber-
glass cloth and resin. Because the boat is
planked with plywood, only one layer of cloth
is required. The "dry" method {see text) is
being used together with polyester resin, al-
though the process would be much the same if
epoxy resin was used. The fiberglass cloth is
laid onto the bare wood surface which must be
clean and dry. Tape, tacks, or staples can be
used to hold the cloth in position on vertical
surfaces or where it can move. The resin is
applied in a series of three coats for most
applications, although four coats could be
how to use the materials
^y>
'
necessary depending on many variables. The
fiberglass cloth is saturated with the initial
coat of resin to wet out the material and make
it smooth. The second coat of resin fills and
conceals the weave of the fiberglass cloth. The
third coat provides the final finish surface
which should be smooth and hard. Note that
the worker is trimming the overhanging edges
of the cloth before the resin sets up hard. The
fiberglass cloth yet to be applied on the hull
sides will overlap the bottom cloth the re-
quired amount along the chine and at other
joints.
37
.
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
pletely (give it a day or two), the PVA is beat or above this temperature also. In cold
washed off with water. As noted in Chapter weather, the surfacing agent may appear
8, PVA is a mold release agent used in female cloudy or a clear solid will form on the
mold fiberglass boat production. One prob- surface of the solution in the container. If
lem, however, is that PVA may not be this happens, warm the container of surfac-
readily available at the retail level. Usually ing agent to about 90° by placing it in a
the material is availableonly in bulk as it can container of warm TAP water. DO NOT
only be shipped by freight carriers; it cannot HEAT THE SURFACING AGENT OVER OR
be sent through the mails. NEAR AN OPEN FLAME OR ELECTRIC
The second (and in my opinion, prefer- HEATER! Also do not allow water to enter
able) way to "lock out" the air if using the container.The amount of surfacing
laminating resin for the final coat, is to put agent to use can vary between 1% and 5%
the wax in the resin yourself! This way, BY WEIGHT OF RESIN, although 2% to 3%
ONE resin can be used throughout the seems best. In other words, for each gallon
fiberglassing operation, making finish resin of resin which usually weighs about 9 lbs.,
in just the quantity needed when it's needed. add approximately 2 to 4 ounces of surfacing
Also, most sanding between coats is elim- agent or as noted in the instructions if
inated as is required when only finish resin is provided with the product. Add surfacing
used throughout. Some may find this idea agent BEFORE the catalyst and stir it in well,
quite radical, and indeed many resin sup- but not so vigorously that a lot of bubbles get
pliers will not even offer the wax additive into the resin. Thorough mixing is impor-
(called "surfacing agent"). The reason for tant! You'll be able to "see" the surfacing
this involves the way the resin manufacturer agent in the resin for it appears as a silky
adds the wax to the resin when he makes it. "film," and this filmy appearance should be
Because the resin during manufacturing is well dispersed in the resin batch. Hence, it is
"cooked," and is therefore heated, the wax a good idea to stir the resin frequently during
(usually paraffin) is readily dispersed use also. If too much surfacing agent is
throughout the resin batch. The resin man- added, the resin could become too thin as
ufacturer is thereby assured that a complete the surfacing agent is partly styrene. If not
surface cure will be effected when the resin enough surfacing agent is added, the resin
is used. On the other hand, when adding surface will not cure completely, and at
your own "surfacing agent" (actually a worst, the surface will have to be sanded and
mixture of paraffin wax held in solution by another finish coat with more surfacing
styrene), it is done at room temperature agent added so it will cure. Take care when
which the resin manufacturer has no control using surfacing agent as the material is
over. Also, because you are adding the wax, harmful if inhaled or swallowed, and may
the resin manufacturer cannot control the the skin, eyes, nose, and throat. Keep
irritate
amount added with accuracy (although it is it out of the reach of children, avoid
hard to add to much or too little if done with breathing a spray mist, and use only with
care). adequate ventilation. Keep the container
But for those who want to use laminating closed when not in use. Wash after hand-
resin throughout and make their own finish ling, and if any gets on your clothing, wash
resin, here's how to do it using surfacing the clothing before re-using.
agent. Don't attempt to "heat" the resin as One aspect of resin use which the begin-
the manufacturers do; this is dangerous! But ner wants advice is pigmentation of the
do try to have the resin at normal room resin. The hope most frequently expressed is

temperature or higher, preferably around that by pigmenting the resin used in fiber-
65° minimum. The surfacing agent should glass covering work, no painting will be

38
 how to use the materials

required. you would accept a poor paint

If "pinholes" which develop through the resin-
job on your car, you would probably accept fiberglass covering. If these "pinholes" de-
the pigmented resin finish on your boat. But velop and are not taken care of, possible
if you want your boat to look like a "real failure or delamination may occur due to
yacht," then don't waste money using water entering the laminate. Another ben-
pigments. realize that most resin suppliers
I efit of using pigment which is seldom
will be set back by these remarks as they mentioned is that by pigmenting the resin
usually do recommend pigmenting the the same color as the final paint to be used,
resin. But the fact of the matter is that you'll less undercoat be required, plus the
will
probably wind up painting the surface color will carry through clear to the hull
anyway. Here's why. material which will make surface abrasions
The pigments generally sold by resin which inevitably occur less evident to the
suppliers are less than perfect. They are not eye. In short, pigmenting of resin is not
opaque enough, and hence it is possible to necessary nor required to get a good fiber-
"see through" them even if used in all coats glass application, and will not provide a
of the resin. Then too, the colors do not have finished surface equal in quality to a well
the brilliance and depth of color that good applied paint system. pigmenting the resin
If

paints have. Whites tend to be less than is should be done for the benefits
desired, it

white, and deep colors like red and blue are which can be achieved in consideration of
subject to fading. But the big problems the drawbacks, as noted above. And from an
come during application, and here again it is appearance and durability standpoint, a
probably because most people think that good paint covering, especially when one of
applying resin is much like applying paint. the new modern coating systems is used, is

However, as noted previously, resin goes on far superior to a resin surface.

like a"bad" paint. It is difficult to get a If pigments are used, they are added
smooth and even finish, especially on BEFORE the catalyst. If using a surfacing
vertical surfaces. And besides, much sand- agent, should be mixed before the
this
ing may be required on the final coat as well pigment so the surfacing agent can be seen
as between coats. There is no harm from while mixing. On some pigment containers,
sanding between coats of resin, but in all the there are no instructions on how much to use
times we have used pigments, sanding of the with the resin. Pigments are usually mixed in

final coat immediately destroys the surface
gloss and makes the color appear blotchy
and uneven, and is certainly not up to a good
paint job. Using pigments in the
especially when used for all coats, does
make it difficult to see some types of defects
such as air bubbles which may form in the
laminate. Another problem with using pig-
mented resin isthedifficulty in mixing many
batches of resin to the precise color each
time no matter how carefully controlled.
However, there are some benefits in using
pigment as it is an aid in determining the
evenness of the coat being applied, espe-
cially if the surface below is not pigmented.
Also, when using a white pigment in cover-
ing applications, it is often easier to spot
a ratio of 4 ounces of pigment per each
gallon of resin. In order to get good depth of
color, more pigment than would seem
resin, necessary is usually required, and should be
mixed into all coats. Excessive pigmenta-
tion, however, will slow the gel time, retard
the cure, and cause surface tackiness, so
don't use too much. If using white, don't be
surprised if the brilliant white in the pigment
tube suddenly turns murky when mixed in
the resin, and comes out less than white
after curing on the surface.
When adding catalyst to the resin, mea-
sure as carefully as possible and follow the
manufacturer's directions concerning temp-
erature requirements. Even still, it may take
one or two batches of resin before the proper

39
'
HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
TEST PANEL-USING PIGMENTED RESIN
Using pigmented resin is usually less than
successful for reasons noted in the text and as
illustrated. In the photographs, a third coat of
resin which has been pigmented white is being
applied to the test panel previously fiber-
glassed (a). Normally, this third coat would be
the final coat being applied if the resin were
not pigmented, and the surface would then be
painted afterward for the final finish. Note
that the previously applied resin coats were
NOT pigmented and that the coat being ap-
plied is not totally concealing the surface
below. In this instance MORE pigment was
. being used than recommended by the manu-
facturer, and it still did not make the surface
opaque. A roller is normally used to apply the
resin, but in the case of this final pigmented
coat, the cured results are clearly shown to the
left in (b). The test panel surface to the right,
however, was applied with a brush giving
40
much better results. The rollered surface re-
sulted in a stippled effect with many "pock
marks" over the area providing an unsatis-
factory surface which would require much
finish sanding. These "pock marks" or craters
can also be caused by using too much catalyst
or working when ambient temperatures are too
high, thereby causing excessive shrinking due
to rapid evaporation of solvents in the resin. A
second coat of pigmented resin [now the
fourth coat of resin applied!) was used with a
brush in order to "smooth out" the previous
surface (c). The resulting cured surface (d) was
much more acceptable using the brush, but
still would have required finish sanding and a
paint finish, or at least considerable buffing
and finish work. Better results come with using
pigmented resin THROUGHOUT all coats, as
well as spraying the resin, although the latter
requires equipment and some skill.

working time in relation to ambient temper-
atures is arrived at. This is why it
recommended to start out with a small area,
such as the transom of a boat, when doing a
big job. When using MEK peroxide catalyst,
treat it with respect as this chemical IS
DANGEROUS! Read the cautions on the
label carefully and adhere to them. This
product can cause severe skin burns and
permanent blindness, so always wear eye
protection and protective clothing.
If it is necessary to work in cold weather
(temperatures lower than 60-65°), there are
resins formulated with "cold weater addi-
tives" for such purposes, or additional
promotor can be added to the resin as
recommended by the resin manufacturer.
So-called "cold weather additives" or pro-
motor is usually a solution containing cobalt
napthanate. To prolong the time available to
work a batch of catalized resin, especially in
hot weather, the container can be placed in
ice or a bucket of cold water. You could even
refrigerate the resin, however, it should not
be placed near foodstuffs which may be-
come contaminated by the resin. There is no
way to exactly determine how much more
working time such practice will allow other
than by trial and error.
If the resin being used is "old," MORE
catalyst is generally required. But in some
cases, LESS catalyst could be required. This
seemingly contradictory situation depends
on the resin formulation and whether or not
thestyrene has evaporated from the resin. If
the styrene has not evaporated, LESS catal-
yst will be required, as the resin will be
nearer to curing due to age. But from the
user's standpoint, the only way to find out is
to try a batch and wait. Thus getting fresh
resin is very important. When adding the
catalyst, stirit well, but not vigorously and
by all means do not stir with an electric
mixer such as those commonly used with
power drills. Stir by hand for about 2 minutes
scraping the edges of the mixing container,
and then apply immediately. For most
applications, don't worry about dabbing the
how to use the materials
resin on as would be done with paint. Just
is pour the resin on the surface and use the
tools to spread it around. Once the resin has
been catalyzed, you'll probably need all the
time you can get to make a good application
before the resin starts to gel. Once the resin
does stop application
start to get like "jelly,"
immediately and make no further attempt to
apply more of this batch. Throw the batch
away along with the stirring stick used. Don't
try to mix another batch in this container or
stir with the old stick as it will start to set up
the new batch of resin as well. If there is
quite a lot of resin remaining after gelation
starts, pour it out onto the ground some-
where so it is well dispersed and not
concentrated. The reason for this is that
once curing begins, a lot of heat is gener-
ated, and sometimes a container with a
batch of resin setting up in it can get so hot
that it can catch on fire! Also avoid throwing
the container in trash cans which contain
refuse, as these might catch fire also. Once
the resin starts to gel, wait until the surface
has reached a firm gel before making
another application of resin over it. A
professional or person familiar with working
with polyester resins can, however, often
"catch" a gelled area with a fresh batch of
resin and retard gelation somewhat if addi-
tional work on the area is required. This is a
somewhat tricky procedure and should be
done only after a little experience is gained.
Thinning or thickening the resin should
generally be avoided by the amateur. How-
ever, there are times when either can be
done for special application, especially by
those more experienced in the use of resin.
Resin should never be thinned with the idea
of "stretching out" the resin in the hope of
saving money. Doing so can affect the resin
qualities and make the final results ques-
tionable. Resin can be thinned, however, for
spraying purposes which will be discussed
later. A thin resin can be made thicker (or
more"thixotropic") by the addition of many
filler materials, but the most common and
accepted one is a fumed silica additive
41
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
better known as "Cabosil" made by the
Godfrey Cabot Company. The silica is
normally added at the rate of 1 to 2% by
weight in orderto be classed as a thixotropic
resin, but too much additive will prevent
wetting out and saturation of the fiberglass
material. Too much thickener should be
avoided as ittoo will affect the final qualities
of the resin.
When working with resin, be sure that the
floor of the work area is protected (unless
you don't care about it or are working on the
ground). Spread plenty of scrap paper or
plastic sheeting to catch resin drips, and
remember that any resin on shoes will have
to cure before tramping around inside the
house you don't want it to get on rugs and
if
floors. Uncured resin can be removed fairly
well with acetone, and partially cured resin
is softened by carbon tetrachloride, various
alkalies, cleaning fluids, and most paint
removers. For removing cured polyester and
epoxy resins, methylene chloride is effec-
tive. If it is desired to mask off an area and
apply resin around it, remember that the
adhesive of masking tape is dissolved by the
resin. Inother words, the resin can "creep"
under the tape somewhat. When working
with fiberglass and resin on a boat hull, let
the resin cure for AT LEAST 3 DAYS AND
PREFERABLY 7 DAYS FOR POWER BOATS
before putting the boat into the water.
ALLOW 48 HOURS MINIMUM BEFORE
PAINTING any resin-coated surface.
THINNING & SPRAYING POLYESTER RESIN
As noted previously, polyester resin
should generally only be thinned for spray-
ing purposes. The resin can be thinned up to
5% with acetone for spraying purposes, but
should NOT be thinned with acetone for any
other purpose. In fact, even for spraying,
adding acetone is questionable. The ace-
tone does not participate in the curing
process of resin and actually tends to lower
the temperature of the resin, thereby affec-
ting the cure time. When being sprayed,
42
. . .
there is a tendency for the acetone to "trap"
in the resin, and becauseit evaporates so
rapidly, tends to leave "pinholes" in the
it
surface. Pinholes seem to form inherently in
any fiberglass-resin composition to some
degree, so there is no sense in adding to this
problem by the use of acetone thinner. Also,
in curing, the acetone can cause cracking,
shrinking, and a surface glaze to form due to
the rapid evaporation. A better thinner is
liquid styrene monomer because the resin
already contains styrene and therefore is
compatible with it. For spraying, the amount
depending on the viscosity
of styrene varies
of the resin. to 15% of styrene can be
Up
added, but the usual proportions vary from
5% to 10%. Resins with less viscosity (such
as laminating resins) require less thinning
than more viscous resin with a high degree of
thixotropy (such as finish resins).
Spraying of resin is usually only done for
thefinal orfinish coats. It is not practical nor
necessary to spray resin for wetting out and
saturating the fiberglass material. A pres-
sure-feed spray gun should be used to apply
the resin as opposed to a siphon-feed type
due to the viscosity of the resin. Use acetone
to clean the gun BEFORE the resin sets up or
else the spray gun could be ruined. A batch
of resin can usually be sprayed through the
gun in about 3 minutes, but the resin should
be catalyzed for a pot life of from 15 to 20
minutes. If flaws or thick areas build up, use
a brush to smooth out these areas before the
resin gels. The technique used to spray resin
is otherwise the same as spraying paint, so
that anyone familiar with paint spraying
should have no problem adapting to resin.
Repeated coats of resin can be sprayed on as
long as the surface does not set up. If a delay
occurs or the resin does set up, the surface
should be sanded before spraying additional
coats when using finish resin. Spraying resin
puts a lot of fumes and spray mist into the air
which can be dangerous. Use only with
adequate ventilation, wear a respirator, and
avoid any open flames, heat sources, or
smoking in the area. Do NOT attempt to

spray in direct sunlight or in a windy or
drarty area.
EPOXY RESIN SELECTION & HANDLING
Epoxy resin is far more expensive than
polyester resin and not used as frequently.
However, for some applications epoxy
are necessary or desirable, as was noted
Chapter 3. For those who want to use
resins, certain precautions and techniques
are required. Most important of the precau-
tions concern the toxic effects of
resins, especiallythose which utilize amine
hardeners. Keep these resins away from all
areas of the skin, or else dermatitis and
severe skin irritation usually results. Also
avoid breathing the fumes, and always wear
protective clothing.
Probably the biggest difference working in
characteristics between polyester resins and
epoxy resins is the difference in the cure
time. Epoxy resins take 12 to 24 hours to
become hard, and will remain fluid or
semi-fluid on a surface for hours. Complete
cure can often take many days, depending
on the temperature, formulation, etc. This
can be a blessing, as it does allow plenty of
time to work the resin; however, on vertical
surfaces the resin will have to be worked a
long time before the resin sets up enough so
it won't run or sag. There's not much that can
be done about this slow cure feature with
many of the commonly available two-part
products short of using heat lamps or other
heating devices to warm the surface being
covered in order to speed the cure. How-
ever, there are some epoxy formulations of
resins and hardeners which do allow varying
the proportions in order to affect the cure
time as well as the final characteristics of the
resin but care must be exercised in selecting
these.
Unlike polyester resins, the epoxy types
do not depend on curing by keeping air away
from the surface. They cure only by the heat
generated by the catalyzed mixture. This
means that successive coats can be applied
how to use the materials
without any surface preparation (providing
the prior coat is smooth). However, because
curing does take a long time, and each coat
should be allowed to cure before applying a
successive coat, the job will take longer to
do. The resin when in the container reacts
much like polyester resin; that is, it tends to
resins gel and set soon and builds up heat,
up fairly
in but when applied to the surface, it remains
epoxy workable for a longer period than polyester
resins. Like polyester resins, a catalyzed
container of epoxy resin can be put in ice, or
epoxy a bucket of cold water, or even refrigerated
to extend the working time for an indefinite
period.
As with polyester resins, most beginners
will tend to apply too much resin on the
surface with each coat. Excess resin should
be squeegeed off the surface and discarded.
While the epoxy resin seems quite thick and
as though it could be difficult to wet out and
saturate through the fiberglass, this is not
the case. Epoxy resin tends to even out
somewhat better than polyester resin and
comes up with a better surface without as
much sanding between coats. The resin
sands easy enough, but the paper quickly
loads up, which is a problem, so try to get a
smooth surface with each coat. The epoxy
surface has a more "flexible" feel to the
cured surface than polyester resin, but it is
tough. In most cases with covering work,
three coats will be required just like poly-
ester resins. However, if the work is carefully
done, there may be no sanding required on
the final coat. This means also that pigments
can be used with better results, although the
pigments are still not totally opaque. The
same pigments used in polyester resins can
be used also in epoxy resins and are mixed
similarly. Especially good luck seems to be
had on horizontal surfaces, so if possible,
keep the area being worked on as level as
possible. Cured surfaces can be washed
down with acetone or lacquer thinner before
or after sanding to get rid of dirt and dust,
but unlike polyester finish resin there is no
wax which requires removing. The solvent
43
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
TEST PANEL-USING EPOXY RESIN
The techniques used to apply epoxy resins
are much the same as for applying polyester
laminating resins. The test panel was covered
with a single layer of fiberglass cloth using
pigmented {red) epoxy resin by the "dry"
method. This particular test panel was fitted
with a skeg and inside corner fillet. The cloth
has been stapled in place and the resin is
being worked into the material (a). A squeegee
is being used to saturate the cloth and distrib-
ute the resin. Note that the worker is wearing
protective polyethylene gloves which should
be considered a must when working with
epoxy resin. The epoxy resin is rather thick
when applied and it is easy to use too much.
Using too much resin, however, should be
avoided in order to prevent runs and sags. Use
only enough in the first coat to wet out and
saturate the material. No sanding is required
between coats if the application is made
carefully, as the resin does not contain wax. In
the test panel application, too much resin was
44
applied and the surface required sanding to
remove runs and sags (b). Because the resin
takes so long to cure, it is not possible to sand
the resin until the following day. Epoxy resin
sands easily enough, but the sandpaper loads
up quickly making it less effective. A second
and third coat of epoxy resin was applied to
finish the surface, (c) and (d). The final
surface was very glossy and virtually smooth
enough to pass as a final finish. The red
pigment prooved to have good color depth
and brilliance, however, it was not totally
opaque. The vertical surface along the skeg
was somewhat less successful. It was difficult
to keep resin on the vertical surface to the
same thickness as on the more horizontal
surface, and sanding was required between all
coats. Part of the problem causing this is that
epoxy resin remains fluid on the surface for a
long time making it difficult to work and
distribute the resin until it cures enough to
prevent runs and sags.
 how to use the materials

makes the surface somewhat tacky just like just ain't so! For a given thickness, plywood
with polyester resins, but it soon dries to a will ALWAYS be much lighter in weight, plus
hard surface again. A higher degree of plywood by itself is MUCH stiffer than
smoothness and glossiness seems to result fiberglass panels of comparable thickness.
on the final coat if a brush is used to apply To make the fiberglass panel rigid would
and even out the resin. This is done much require additional stiffening in the form of
like a good paint which is also unlike sandwich cores, stringers, and other rein-
polyester resin, but avoid using too much forcing not required for the plywood panel.
resin.Other than noted in this section, Reducing the plywood panel thickness also
epoxy resins are used and applied in much reduces its stiffness which will not be made
the same manner as polyester resins. up with a heavy build up of fiberglass
material. This is not only more expensive,
but very difficult to do for a good finish. If
FIBERGLASS COVERING WITH CLOTH
the fiberglass is not heavy enough to prevent
Most boat covering or sheathing applica- the thinner plywood panel from flexing, the
tions involve the use of fiberglass cloth and and fatigue with eventual
fiberglass will flex
resin, using one or two layers of cloth. More failureand delamination resulting. It should
layers of cloth could
be used, but there are be emphasized that the covering of fiber-
The most important
several reasons not to. glass on a plywood boat is intended to
reason not to use more than two layers of protect the plywood surface (which is prone
cloth is that the bond between successive to checking if Douglass fir plywood is used),
layers of cloth (also referred to as "peel make for watertight joints, reduce main-
strength") is not as good as between alter- tenance, and provide a more durable finish.
nating layers of mat and cloth, for example. The fiberglass covering is NOT provided for
In other words, there is a tendency for the additional strength in a well-designed and
cloth layers to delaminate from one another well-built plywood boat.
when too many layers are used together.
Other reasons to use no more than two layers
TWO TECHNIQUES FOR FIBERGLASS
are less cost, less weight, less time, and less
COVERING APPLICATIONS
work. Besides these reasons, there is really
little to gain in using more than two layers of There are basically two techniques used in
cloth. If thickness must be built up, it is applying fiberglass cloth coverings. One
better to use alternating layers of mat and technique is referred to as the "wet method"
cloth. and the other is called the "dry method."
Let's diverge a moment into a topic which The "wet method" refers to the laying of the
comes up frequently, especially with ply- cloth on a wet catalyzed resin surface,
wood boats. Many would-be boatbuilders smoothing it out and saturating it, and then
come up with the idea of reducing the applying subsequent coats of resin. The "dry
thickness of plywood planking and making method" refers to laying the cloth on a bare
up the thickness with a build-up of fiberglass uncoated or "dry" surface and then soaking
materials and resin. There are many reasons and forcing catalyzed resin through the
why this should not be done and I'm afraid cloth thereby saturating both the cloth as
that the "reasoning" behind this idea is well as the bonding surface. Subsequent
based on some myths and fallacies regarding coats are later applied just as with the "wet
fiberglass. First off, the novice has been led method," and in either method, the end
to believe that by using more fiberglass should be identical.
results
instead of plywood, his boat will not only be When reading other literature concerning
lighter, but stronger as well. The fact is, it fiberglasssing, invariably you'll find instruc-

45
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

TEST PANEL-APPLYING FIBERGLASS CLOTH

WITH THE "WET" METHOD

The test panel simulates a typical hull sec-

tion including a "skeg" (a) that is to be
covered with fiberglass cloth and resin in a
single layer using the "wet" method. A wood
cant strip is installed along the inside corner
prior to applying the cloth so the cloth will
adhere to this area (d). The cloth has been
previously fitted to the area and rolled onto a
cardboard tube. The side of the test panel has
been protected with masked paper to prevent
any resin from running and curing onto the
sides. A coat of resin is applied to the bare
surface and then the roll of fiberglass cloth is
unrolled onto the surface (fa). Getting the
cloth into the correct original position as it
was when being fitted is tricky because it can't
be moved around too much once on the wet
resin without forming wrinkles and air bub-
bles. The cloth is smoothed out and saturated
as much as possible with this first coat. The
photograph (fa) shows parts of the cloth where
the resin is saturating through from the surface
side. A second coat of resin is applied imme-
diately after the cloth is in position and
smoothed out The panel has been sanded
(c).
after the third coat of resin (d). The dark spots
showing are low areas as well as various "pock
marks" which mean another coat of resin will
be required (or four coats total). The cant strip
on the inside corner between the bottom and
the skeg is clearly shown in (d). The side is
being covered after completing the bottom
(e), although the sequence on an actual boat
makes little difference. The resin initially ap-
plied to the surface is forced through the cloth
laid onto the surface with a squeegee. The
"dry" or white areas must be saturated with
more resin by applying a second coat.

46
 how to use the materials

tions to the effect that "the surface should
be coated with resin FIRST, then allowed to
set up slightly, and then the cloth applied"
which pretty well describes the "wet
method." Personally, thinkthewet method
I it won't get soiled, but is convenient.
is a waste of time and work (for reasons
which will follow), and somewhat "messy,"
but there is nothing particularly wrong with
this method. One of the reasons often heard
for using the wet method is that some woods
tend to absorb resin at an unequal rate. That
is, the resin soaks into the wood in one area,
but not in another. The reasoning behind the
wet method is to allow the worker to apply
an even coat of resin by going over areas
where the resin may have tended to soak
into the wood. However, the fallacy is that
this same effect occurs even when a layer of
cloth is applied over the bare surface first
and then saturated with resin as in the "dry
method." The areas where the resin tends to
soak into the wood show up equally well
with the cloth in position, and hence
case leave plenty of cloth at edges, joints,
and overlaps, say 4" to 6". Roll the cloth
onto a mailing tube, dowel, broom stick, or
other similar cylinder, and set it aside where
Next apply the resin. Only a limited area
can be coated with resin before gelation
occurs, and of course the cloth must be
applied BEFORE the resin starts to set up.
This means that only so much cloth can be
unrolled onto the resin-coated surface at a
time. The cloth should be cut where the
resin coat stops unless the work can be done
fast enough to continue applying resin
before gelation forces a stop. If the cloth is
cut too late (after the resin starts to set),
there will be a protruding area which will
have to be feathered out for the next
adjoining piece. If the cloth is not cut, resin
MUST be applied continuously along the
length of cloth to prevent any premature
gelation. For most beginners working alone,
it is best to limit the area worked to about 20

additional resin can still be applied just as to 30 square feet at a time, cut the cloth, and
easily to any dry areas. Also, in practical make an overlapping joint with the next
application, especially Douglas fir
with piece. Of course, on an area such as the
plywood, there does not seem to be much of transom of a boat, a joint would probably
a problem in extremes between areas of a not be required so there would be no
surface where the wood tends to soak up problem in this matter, and therefore, you
resin, and other areas which remain "wet" might want to try the wet method in an area
with the resin. There could be some justifi- such as this to see how you like it. As can be
cation for using the wet method on vertical readily seen, however, on a large surface
surfaces where the tacky resin may hold the such as a boat hull, many joints along the
cloth in position better. However, in most length of the cloth could be required, but
instances, there will be an opportunity to with the dry method (which will describe I

tack or staple the cloth to hold it in position later), no would be necessary.

joints
using either the wet or dry method. If using the wet method, highly recom-
I

mend the use of polyester laminating resin

(unless the surface requires the use of epoxy
"WET" METHOD
resin), at least for the initial coat. The
There may come a time when the wet reason is that in applyingthe initial coat, it is

method may be desired, so the procedures difficult to remove the wax which would
will be discussed (even though am hard putI float to the surface as with using polyester
to find a reason to use this method). First, lay if the work cannot be
finish resin, especially
the cloth on the area to be covered and cut done enough to get a second coat of
fast
roughly to shape. For large areas it may not resin applied. The wax would then get into
be necessary to do this as the material can be the weave of the fiberglass cloth, and if the
unrolled directly onto the surface. In any resin did set up, the cloth would not be

47
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
totally covered with resin. Since the only full-bodied coat by applying in all direc-
way to remove all the wax after this time tions. If it appears that the resin is soaking
would be to sand, it would be virtually into the wood, apply more resin over these
impossible to avoid sanding into or through areas. A dry area will appear dull so it is easy
much of the cloth, thereby ruining the to spot. The cloth can be applied at any time
protective layer. Thus, if a resin with wax IS after the first application prior to gelation.
used, the buildup of resin on the cloth must However, if the resin is allowed to "stiffen
be adequate before sanding to prevent up" a bit first, the cloth will not slip and
sanding through the cloth, and this is move around on resin that is too wet. As can
difficult to do. Unless the wax can be added be deduced, the cloth must be applied at
by the user, it is often an advantage, just the right point if the job is to be easier.
however, to purchase all of the resin of one Take the cloth rolled onto the cylinder
type (i.e. finishing resin with wax) as the wax and start unrolling it by hand over the
free resin will not cure on the surface in the surface to position it and work in the resin.
final coat. For these reasons, when using a This is pretty messy work (especially if you
finishing resin throughout all coats, it is are not wearing gloves!) and is not required
better to use the dry method described later. using the dry method. Sometimes it is
When using laminating resin with the wet difficult to get the cloth in the same position
method, sanding the surface with the fiber- it was in when and
fitted this can be hectic.
glass cloth partially exposed is not neces- Also, there is a tendency for sticky hands to
sary. Once the laminating resin starts to gel drag and move the cloth about. Try to do the
and cure, additional coats can be applied saturation as quickly and
completely as
without further ado. possible so that another coat can be applied
As might be deduced from the above, one if at all possible so the weave of the cloth is

of the problems with the wet method can be
getting good saturation of the cloth with the
first and second coats of resin. Part of the
reason for this is the fact that the resin
cannot be applied to the entire area at
precisely the same time before applying the
covered. There must be no white or "milky"
areas where the weave of the cloth appears.
When totally saturated and wetted out, the
weave will disappear and be transparent. If
you are lucky and have complete coverage,
it may be possible to get by with only one

cloth, and some resin will start to cure or gel
while some of it will still be wet. The resin
which is fairly wet will saturate
well, but that resinwhich has been on the
surface longer can make it difficult to wet
out the cloth. Indeed, on our small test
panel, we had difficulty in wetting out the
cloth even with the SECOND coat of resin,
^fobablyjiooe thing which should be done
when using the wet method is to UNDER
catalyze the resin so more time is available
to wet out the cloth. Getting the cloth
saturated is a must, and under no circum-
stances should you wait to apply the cloth
AFTER gelation begins, for a complete bond
will not result.
*
When applying the first coat of catalyzed
resin, use a brush or roller, laying on a good
more coat of resin (for a total of 3 coats), but
it is not uncommon to require a total of 4
the cloth coats of resin using the wet method. The
foregoing describes the basic initial proce-
dures of the wet method. The balance of this
chapter should be read for information in
completing the job plus various other appli-
cation tips.
In the description of both the wet method
and the dry method, it is assumed that one
worker is doing the job. However, if two or
more workers are available, some tech-
niques could be used so that the fiberglass
application may be done in one continuous
operation along a length of cloth, especially
with the wet method. For example, one
worker can apply the resin, while another
can roll on the length of cloth progressively,

48
 how to use the materials

wet it out, and smooth it in
resin is applied, all without the need to make
any joints as long as the resin can be
continuously applied in one operation with-
out let-up. Immediately following the cloth
application, another worker can be laying
on the second and even the final resin coats
if laminating resin is used. The key word
here, however, is CONTINUOUS APPLICA-
TION, for as soon as the work along a piece
of cloth is halted, a joint would be required.
In other words, if a length of cloth cannot be
place after the throughout the operation although it tends
to pull the cloth about unless well stapled in
position.
Pour the resin onto the surface directly
from the container wherever possible to save
time. As with the wet method, an area of
approximately 30 square feet can be worked
by one person before the resin starts to gel.
However, as long as the application is
continuous, there is no need to worry about
cutting the cloth and making joints. All that
is required is to catalyze another batch of

applied in a normal work period, for exam- resin and proceed along the length of cloth
ple one day, a joint must be made in order to into the next area. With the dry method,
recommence the application on another there is usually no problem in saturating the
day. The above should not be confused with cloth or in building up the resin enough to
lap or butt joints that might occur with conceal the weave. However, as is usual, the
adjacent parallel pieces of cloth which can beginner tends to apply TOO MUCH resin
be applied at any later period without which causes excessive runs and sags,
problems with either method, but only along especially on vertical surfaces. Another
a given length of cloth although such joints common problem is that the cloth will not
are also lapped. adhere well around outside or inside cor-
ners. The resin tends to "bleed out" as the
cloth lifts unless the corners are well
"DRV METHOD
radiused. If this problem does occur, keep
With the dry method, the fiberglass cloth working resin into these areas until it begins
is spread over the dry, bare surface initially. to set up. If an area does not receive
The cloth can be cut to shape, although this adequate saturation, it is possible to cut out
is not necessary as it can be done later. The the cloth with a razor knife before the resin
cloth can be tacked, stapled, or even taped sets up and apply a patch of new cloth and
in position (however, remember that poly- resin. If the resin does set up and an area

ester resin tends to dissolve the adhesive does contain bubbles where the cloth has
used in masking tape). The resin may be a lifted, the cloth must be sanded through and
laminating type (wax free) for the initial the edges adjoining must be feathered so a
coats; however the finish resin (containing patch of fresh cloth can be inserted. Such a
wax) can be used throughout, although with patch should overlap onto sound cloth for
the difficulties between coats previously integrity of the surface. To minimize these
described. The resin is then forced through problems, be sure that any corners are well
the cloth by using a brush, roller, or radiused FIRST and the surface prepared
squeegee. On large areas, a brush is usually properly. The wet method and the dry
too slow, although have heard of some
I method are the two basic methods used for
people having good luck using a large applying fiberglass cloth coverings. Either
stiff-bristled brush like those used to apply method can be used on vertical or horizontal
wallpaper. A mohair roller works well for surfaces. What follows in the balance of the
quick spreading and saturation of the resin chapter are various situations where appli-
initially, with a squeegee used after to cation techniques require special consider-
smooth out the cloth and scrape off any ation, such as working on vertical surfaces,
excess resin. Or, a squeegee can be used handling edges, joints, corners, and over-

49
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS . . .

laps, sanding between coats of resin, surface

finishing methods, making and using putty
and filler, plus the application methods
required for combinations of fiberglass ma-
terials other than one layer of fiberglass
cloth. Except as specifically noted, either
the wet or dry method can be used in a given
application of fiberglass material, although
it is my opinion that the "dry" method is less

work, quicker, and generally superior.

SUMMARY OF BASIC STEPS IN APPLYING

COVERINGS OF FIBERGLASS MATERIALS

'WET'' METHOD
1 Fit the material to the surface to rough
size.

2. Roll the material onto a cylinder tube

or wood dowel and set aside.

3. Coat the surface with a full coating of

catalyzed resin.
4. Unroll the material onto the surface,
smoothing out wrinkles and air bub-
bles.

5. Apply another coat of resin to satur-

ate and conceal the weave of the
material.
6. Apply a final finish coat of resin.

"DRY" METHOD
1. Fit the material to the surface to
rough size and tack, tape, or staple in
position.

2. Saturate the surface with a full coat-

ing of catalyzed resin.

3. Smooth out wrinkles and air bubbles

before the resin sets up. TEST PANEL-APPLYING FIBERGLASS CLOTH
WITH THE "DRY" METHOD
4. Apply another coat of resin to con- The side of the test panel is masked with
ceal the weave of the material. paper just below the point where the bottom
cloth will lap over onto the side (a). The
5. Apply a final finish coat of resin. fiberglass cloth is fitted to rough oversize over
the bare surface and stapled in position (b). A
These are the basic steps in either pro- coat of resin is poured onto the cloth surface
cess as described more fully in the text.
and distributed with a squeegee or roller (c).
Laminating resin is being used which means
Variations may be required depending on

50

that no sanding between coats is required. A
second [d] and third coat (e) can be applied
successively to build up the laminate suffi-
ciently final sanding.
for When laminating
resin used, the final coat must be mixed
is
with "surfacing agent" so the resin will cure
completely. Or, a finish resin containing wax
could be used for the final coat. Before the
resin sets up hard, however, the masked area
how to use the materials
as well as all overhanging areas must be
trimmed and removed {f) and (g). If this is
done too soon, the cloth may be pulled away.
Sanding the final surface can be done with a
finish sander (h). Slightly low areas can be
hand sanded {i), but if the surface is very
irregular, another coat of resin might be re-
quired after this sanding. In either case, the
final sanded surface can now be painted.
51
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
COVERING SMALL BOATS WITH FIBERGLASS
CLOTH & RESIN
Sometimes it is possible to cover a small
boat with a single piece of fiberglass cloth
with no joints or overlaps as is being done in
this group of photographs. The bare hull has
been prepared to receive the cloth with all
screw holes and minor imperfections filled
with a compatible wood putty (a). All corners
have been gently radiused so the cloth will
conform to the hull without forming air bub-
bles. The length of cloth is draped over the
hull and the resin applied in a continuous
operation for each coat (b). A roller is used to
distribute the resin quickly, while a brush is
used in areas where required (c) and (d).
52
Overhanging edges of the cloth are trimmed
before the resin sets up hard (e). On this boat,
the fiberglass cloth overhanging along the
gunwhale was trimmed flush with the deck
surface and the deck was covered later over-
lapping onto the sides. However, the fiberglass
cloth could have been trimmed up to the deck
edge and then capped with a rub rail without
covering the deck surface. When using one
piece of cloth as is done here, no overlaps or
joints are required in the cloth. The completed
craft is protected from leaks, has a neat
appearance, and will not require any main-
tenance for many seasons (f).
 how to use the materials

the resin type used (laminating resin, finish better on vertical surfaces than does a brush.
resin, or epoxy resin), degree of surface Many people think that they can "paint"
quality desired, tools and equipment used, or even out a coat of resin much like they
and other factors. The text should be read would a coat of good enamel paint, but resin
thoroughly before commencing the fiber- does not work this way on vertical surfaces.
glass operation in order to fully understand Using a brush working in one direction first
the various factors involved. appears to even out the resin, but shortly
after, the resin begins to run and sag,
developing a stippled surface or one with
WORKING ON VERTICAL SURFACES
"pock marks." If the brush strokes are in a
Most people have good luck using on
resin horizontal direction along the vertical sur-
But vertical
fairly flat surfaces. surfaces can face the sags appear in a prominent hori-
often bedisheartening. One reason forthis is zontal line. Better luck comes by using the
that many people believe the myth that brush strokes in a vertical direction, but
resins which are called "thixotropic" won't even still the stippled affect occurs to some

run or sag. They then proceed to use these extent. In both cases, the brush (whose
resins fully convinced that they will apply original purpose is to provide an even but
like a good paint and not run or sag, only to consistently thick coat of paint), distributes
find out that this is indeed what occurs. the resin, but does not get rid of the excess.
While it is true that there are resins which This is what the squeegee should be used for.

will run and sag MORE than others, it is best (However, don't junk your brush yet! It's
to proceed with the thought that ALL resins perfect for finish coats which are discussed
will run,and then take preventive action to later).
stop or at least minimize running and
sagging.
EDGES, CORNERS, JOINTS & OVERLAPS
One way to prevent and runs is to use
sags
LESS resin and make good use of the
squeegee the same time. As noted
at In covering with fiberglass cloth, whether
previously,most beginners tend to apply too using one or two layers, all joints should be
much resin, and if there is more resin on the overlapped at least 4" and preferably more.
surface than the fiberglass material can Of course, wherever there is an overlap,
absorb, sheer gravity will make it run down there will be an additional thickness of
somewhere. Use only as much resin as is material and in order to not cause a lump or

required to saturate and bond the material in "high spot," the lower layer should be
the first coat, to fill the weave in the second "feathered" or tapered so the transition is
coat, and to finish off the surface in the third gradual. Then the upper layer can be sanded
coat. down after the resin cures for a smooth
Because the resin will run, work the area surface. Likewise, all be
corners should
in all directions as long as possible until the lapped over at least 2" or more, which means
resin begins to gel using a minimum amount that a double or triple layer of material will
of resin on the first coat. If the resin is reinforce the corners where a single layer is
running out or leaching out from an upper used on other areas. In many cases, slits or
area, use a squeegee to redistribute the resin gores will have to be cut in the cloth,
up into this area again. Putting a bit more especially at corners such as where the
catalyst into the resin initially will make it bottom, side, and transom join. A corner
set up faster which can help prevent runs such as this is probably the most difficult

and working on an area for long periods of area to cover properly.

time. A roller or squeegee seems to work Another way to provide extra material at

53
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
AIR BUBBLES
FORM HERE
POOR
JOINTS IN FIBERGLASS CLOTH
All joints in a single layer of fiberglass cloth
should be overlapped. The amount of overlap
is preferably a nominal 4". If the edge of the
first layer of cloth is not tapered or "feath-
ered," an abrupt lump will occur where the
second piece overlaps the first. There can also
be problems with air bubbles forming at such a
lap just as with a crisp corner. If the edge of
the second piece is not feathered also, a raised
AIR BUBBLES
FORM HERE
EDGES & OVERLAPS ALONG EDGES
Fiberglass material will not conform to ab-
rupt or crisp edges. The illustration to the left,
shows what will occur if the fiberglass material
is forced around a "hard" edge. The material
will lift off the surface and air bubbles will
form. Along such areas, the fiberglass material
and resin are useless. The sander will probably
go through such an area virtually on contact,
or water will get under the area and perhaps
leak into the hull or even cause damage to the
wood and delamination. This is why all edges
should be radiused as shown in the center
illustration. Generally, the corners should be
radiused as much as possible, but care must be
taken so that the joint is not damaged or
weakened by hitting the fastenings, or taking
54
. . .
BEST
area equal to the width of the overlap will be
formed on the surface which will be an
eyesore, even if this edge is feathered. There-
fore, the edges of EACH adjoining piece of
cloth should be feathered so the surface will
be smooth and fair. A disc sander is ideal to
taper or feather the edges, and the amount of
taper should be as gradual as possible {even
more than the illustrations suggest).
2"MIN.
too much off of plywood laminations.
The illustration to the right shows a com-
mon junction, such as might occur along the
chine where the bottom and side planking
meet. Usually one piece of material will be
used on the bottom, while another piece is
used along the side. The two pieces should be
lapped as shown. This type of lap is referred to
as a "double lap" which will amount to at least
4" of material in two laminations. This amount
of lap is a minimum and more is always
desirable. Note that the edges of the material
in both cases are well "feathered" or tapered
to fair into the surface smoothly. The double
lap reinforces the junction and makes it vir-
tually leakproof.
 how to use the materials

xvN

CANT
/STRIP
**y "
^s

POOR GOOD GOOD

HOW TO HANDLE INSIDE CORNERS

Just as fiberglass materials will not bend
around a crisp outside corner, so they will not
bend into a hard inside corner either. Attempt-
ing to do so will cause air bubbles in the
corner due to the material lifting and pulling
away from the surface. In order to prevent
this, the corner should be radiused or fitted
with a cant strip in order to minimize the
abrupt corner area. The radius can be made
from a filler material formed into a concave
shape called a fillet.

BOTTOM

CRISP

HOW TO GET A CRISP EDGE

The well radiused corner required for proper
application of fiberglass cloth is not desirable
on some areas of certain types of boats. For
example, the bottom edge along the transom
of high performance boats or the inside edge
along sponsons of hydroplanes should have a
hard crisp corner for ultimate speed and per-
formance. The method illustrated does feature
a radiused corner which allows the proper
application of the cloth. But the edge is then
built up with pieces of cloth or mat in order to
provide sufficient bulk of fiberglass material
and resin so the area can be ground down to
form the crisp edge. Enough material should
be provided to allow a smooth transition into
the adjacent area so the hull lines are straight
and true. In other words, the built up area
should not form an abrupt "bump" or 'hump"
at the edge. This could deter from the perfor-
mance of such a boat. The illustration to the
right shows how the completed edge should
appear in section view.

55
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

these junctions is to use fiberglass cloth tape Store the strips of fiberglass cloth tape so
along all joints such as the chine and keel formed an air-tight container such as a
in

members. Then the cloth can be lapped onto plastic bag or box to keep the resin from
the previously applied taped surface. Fiber- drying out until used. The tape should be
glass cloth tape is sold with a selvaged edge used within a few days as it may become
which keeps from unraveling. But, you can
it difficult to wet out if the resin bead loses too
make your own fiberglass tape in the much of the solvents through drying.
following manner. Stretch out a length of If using other fiberglass materials, such as
cloth over a sheet of cardboard using mat or woven rovings, overlapping joints
masking tape to hold the material in place. should generally be avoided. The reason
Use a straight edge to marked off widths as beingthatthese materials build up thickness
desired. Brush along these lines with uncat- rapidly, and adouble layer in an overlapping
alyzed resin, which may be thinned up to joint would be "lumpy" and difficult to
10% with acetone for this purpose, (an smooth over. Also, mat and woven roving
exception to the rule of not thinning with are ordinarily used in laminates where the
acetone) using the edge of the brush so as to materials can be butted together in a butt
form a thin bead of resin. This resin edge Then the next layer is applied over the
joint.
allows easy cutting and keeps the yarn from butt joint, and any butt joints in this
unravelling. Let dry for 10 or 15 minutes and successive layer are located at some other
then cut along the lines with a razor knife. point. This is what is meant by "staggering"

HOW TO HANDLE CORNERS

Probably one of the most difficult areas to

cover with fiberglass cloth is a corner where
three surfaces join. An example of this is
where the side and bottom planking on a
hard-chine boat meet the transom. Because
three pieces of fiberglass cloth will join over
this corner, the cloth must be "gored" or cut
to fit around the corner so that excess layers of
cloth and resin are not built up. The illustra-
tion shows one piece of cloth on the bottom
cut with the gore to cover the corner. The lap
over and onto the adjoining surface must be at
least 2" and preferably more. The pieces of
cloth on the sides and the transom are done in AREA
a similar manner so that when the application HULL BOTTOM
is completed, there will be a triple lamination

of cloth over the corner area itself. While the

bottom cloth is shown being installed first, the
usual method is to install the transom cloth
first, and then either the side or the bottom.
The angles shown assume a 90° corner on all
planes [as if a cube were being covered), and
may need to be varied somewhat depending
on the adjoining angles.

HULL SIDE TRANSOM

56
 how to use the materials

joints. the butt joints happened to fall

If all to hand sand corners for this reason.
in same place, the structure of the
the Try to start sanding as soon as possible
laminate would be very weak at the point of after the resin cures. The longer the resin
the butt joint. Woven roving which does not cures, the harder it and the harder it is to
gets
have a selvaged edge, should have joints sand. When you can touch the resin and not
made between pieces with the loose rovings leave a fingerprint when pressed hard, the
along the edges lapped into each other for resin can be sanded. In areas where the
structural continuity. But avoid overlapping weave of the cloth shows through, these
the PARALLEL strands along the joint as must be recoated with resin. If finish resin
these will form a high spot. was used, wash these areas with solvent
and/or sand lightly but not enough to cut
the cloth.
SANDING BETWEEN COATS
If using laminating resin and applying APPLYING TWO LAYERS OF CLOTH
smooth and even coats, there is no need to
do any sanding between coats assuming Two layers of fiberglass cloth can be
there is no dirt or dust on the surface which applied using either laminating resin or
could affect the bond. However, there may finishing resin, as long as they are put on
be some nubs or high spots which must be consecutively, one layer after another. Of
knocked down to make the surface even. course, this is somewhat like doing the job
The preceeding statements apply to epoxy TWICE, and many will probably wonder why
resins as well. However, if a finish resin they can't do the job in one operation
containing wax has been used for laminating applying both layers of cloth and wetting out
purposes, the wax may have to be removed as with the dry method. The answer is that
by sanding. Prior to sanding (regardless of you can as long as some different techniques
the resin used), the surface should be are used and a few hints are utilized. First
washed with a solvent as previously noted. off, two layers of cloth at one time should
A finish sander will smooth out the surface only be attempted if you have some exper-
best, but it will also take longer than a disc or ience at fiberglassing. If you've never fiber-
belt sander. On the initial coat, a disc or belt glassed before, don't attempt to do two
sander should be used with care as it is easy layers at once on something as large as a
to gouge through the cloth. However, the boat, as it is just simply too much to bite off
disc sander is perfect for feathering edges at and chew for a beginner. Get some practice
corners and joints, although care must be on a small area first.
taken not to gouge into any adjacent bare Apply the cloth using the dry method and
wood areas. The initial coats of resin should by all means use laminating resin. Gener-
be sanded as level and smooth as possible ally, just about TWICE as much resin will be
for this will directly reflect into the final required to saturate a given area initially, or

finish coat. Start with a #80 to #120 paper
and finish out with a #180 to #220 grit paper.
Hand sand low areas where the machine
sanders won't reach without removing too
much material from adjacent high areas.
These low spots will show up as "glossy"
areas, whereas the sanded areas will have a
"frosted" appearance. Be careful if using a
machine sander around corners as it is easy
to go right through the material. It is better
put another way, half as much area can be
saturated with a given amount of resin using
two layers at once, at least for the first coat.
Always use LESS catalyst than would be used
with a single layer as a lot more time will be
needed to work the resin through both layers
and work out wrinkles and bubbles. Apply
the fiberglass material over the bare surface
and staple or tack well into position as the
layers of cloth will tend to slide about easily.

57
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS . . .

Apply a thin coating of resin to help keep the

cloth in place all around the size area
that you think can be worked at one time.
Then keep on adding resin using a squeegee
or roller to distribute and saturate the cloth.
The heavier the cloth, the harder it will be
to saturate two layers at once. Cloth heavier
than 10 ounce should be avoided for this
reason. There is a tendency for bubbles to
form under either layer of cloth and these
must be worked out together with any
wrinkles. While finish resin could conceiv-
ably be used for this application, the
problem as noted earlier about the wax
would be even more of a problem with two
layers. Also, laminating resin generally
seems to wet out easier and quicker than
finish resin and should be used for this
reason as well. The balance of the job is
done just as would be done for any other
application of fiberglass cloth.

APPLYING A LAYER OF MAT AND CLOTH

Where a bare surface has irregularities, it
may be desirable to first use a layer of mat
and then cover this with cloth. Some
examples where this might be desirable are
on wood strip-cored boats, strip-planked
hulls, and double-diagonally planked boats
using either solid wood or plywood. Here
again the mat can be applied first to help
smooth out rough spots, and then the cloth
applied subsequently. However, many will
wonder if they can do the job at once. The
answer is that this is NOT recommended.
With a layer of mat and a layer of cloth, it is
just about impossible to wet them both out
thoroughly and evenly. If the mat and the
cloth were very lightweight types, there may
be a possibility that the job could be done at
one time, but usually for the cases where this
application would be required, the mat and
the cloth would be of heavier weights. Apply
the layers consecutively!
TEST PANEL-APPLYING TWO LAYERS OF
FIBERGLASS CLOTH AT ONCE
Applying two layers of cloth at one time can
be done if some hints are followed. Don't use
cloth heavier than 10 ounces, always use
laminating resin at least for the first coat, and
try to get some experience before doing an
object as large as a boat. Apply the cloth using
the "dry" method and use LESS catalyst in
order to have more time in working a given
area. Remember that a given amount of resin
the surface can be coated with resin first (as
in the wet method), or the mat can be
applied over the bare surface first and
wetted out from above (as in the dry
method). With heavy mats, it is best to coat

Laminating resin is again recommended the bare surface first with resin and immed-
for the initial coats using mat and cloth. iately apply the mat, then coat the mat
Depending on the weight of the materials, surface next. By so doing, resin will be

58

will only go about half as far in the initial coat
as would be the case if using only one layer of
cloth.
In the photographs, the process is illustrated
being done on the test panel. The side surface
is first fitted with two layers of cloth and
stapled in position (a). Then the resin is
applied to saturate and wet out the material
(b). The brush is used to keep sufficient resin
penetrating the matfrom BOTH sides. When
the mat is saturated, the cloth can be rolled
onto the surface much as is called for in the
wet method. If the resin is still very wet,
there can be a tendency to move or "drag"
the mat around while working on the cloth,
so it is best to let the resin "stiffen up" a bit to
prevent this. Do NOT let the saturated mat
how to use the materials
around the edge where it tends to drain away.
After curing, the edge is "feathered'' with a
disc sander (c). Then two layers of cloth are
fitted and stapled to the bottom surface {d).
Resin is poured over the surface and the cloth
saturated using a roller (e). A second coat
being applied with a roller fills the cloth and
conceals the weave of the cloth [f). A final
coat will be applied after this coat.
set up and cure before the cloth is applied
however, especially if a smooth final fin-
ished surface is desired. Apply the cloth over
the wet mat and smooth out the surface
BEFORE the resin sets up.
A serrated mat roller should be used to wet
out the mat, but a roller or squeegee can be
used to smooth out the cloth. Going around
59
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
TEST PANEL-APPLYING A LAYER OF MAT
& CLOTH AT ONE TIME
Applying a layer of fiberglass mat and cloth
(a) at one time is not recommended. The
reason is that it is extremely difficult to wet
out the mat under the fiberglass cloth as it
would normally be used. This clearly shows in
the photograph (b) by the numerous "dry"
areas on the test panel. These "dry" or white
corners is easily done with the mat, but
on
possible to get resin rich areas (especially
inside corners) when mat is used, so watch
out for these along with bubbles which
might creep in under the cloth or below the
mat. With the cloth in place and saturated,
the balance of the operation is just like any
other fiberglassing process used for cov-
ering.
USING MAT & WOVEN ROVING
Very seldom is mat and roving together
recommended covering work, as the
for
materials are quite heavy and the strength is
simply not needed. Besides, getting a good
finished surface is a lot more work than with
cloth. However, there are some laminating
procedures where the two materials are
used, such as on "one-off" construction
where the mat and woven roving are used to
build up a laminate.
As with mat and cloth, mat and woven
roving should NOT be applied at one time.
60
. . .
areas remained even though large amounts of
resin were applied to the surface and worked
over a long period of time, both with a roller
and squeegee. In all cases, these dry white
areas cannot be permitted; all portions of the
laminate must be thoroughly saturated and
"transparent."
it is Woven roving by itself is difficult enough to
wet out without adding more material to the
job. Mat is usually applied first with the
woven roving placed over it in most applica-
tions, and therefore should be applied as
discussed in the preceeding section. That is,
for heavier mats, the surface should be
coated first and the mat then laid in position
and coated again. This not only helps wet
out the mat better, but helps maintain the
position of the mat too. Also, only laminat-
ing resin should be used for reasons which
should be obvious by now.
In some cases, mat or roving may be used
to reinforce hull members using rather small
pieces worked into corner areas, and it is too
cramped to get rollers or squeegees into
these places. It is sometimes practical to
pre-soak small pieces prior to putting them
in place. A brush is often a practical tool to
use, but if you don't use the brush right, it
will justdrag the mat to pieces. The proper
way to handle the brush is to dab and stipple
the mat with plenty of resin, using the hands

TESTPANEL-BUILDING UP A COMMON
LAMINATE
A common laminate used for structural
purposes usually consists of alternating layers
of fiberglass mat and woven roving. The num-
ber of layers of each depends on the final
strength characteristics desired, but the appli-
cation procedures are the same. In most cases,
the first and last layer of such a laminate is
fiberglass mat, as the mat will bond better to
another material {such as a sandwich core
material), and is more watertight on an exter-
ior surface as well as forming a smoother
surface. On this test panel, a layer of mat
being applied to the surface material, which in
this case is wood, but it could be another
material such as foam sandwich core or "C-
FLEX" fiberglass planking [materials both de-
scribed in Chapter 9). Here the mat is being
how to use the materials
applied by the "dry" method primarily to
determine how difficult it is to wet out the
material this way (a). Applying the mat in this
manner is much more difficult than if the
surface had been initially coated as is done
with the "wet" method, for a lot of resin and
working time is required to wet out and
saturate the mat (b). Once the mat is saturated
and wetted out (c), the layer of woven roving
is immediately applied (d). The wet surface of
the mat below will aid in wetting out the
is roving. Plenty of laminating resin is required
to saturate the mat and it is difficult to do.
Therefore, less catalyst should be used in the
resin in order to allow plenty of working time,
and the area should be limited in size per each
resin batch.
61
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

to keep things in position. Another tech- laminating resin for the final coat, a roller
nique which can sometimes be used with does not have this effect and works well to
mat is to saturate the mat and immediately give an even coat. suspect that this
I

apply woven roving over this, using a lot of difference is caused by the fact that finish
resin on the roving to saturate the roving resins sometimes have more thixotropic
too. Then a brush and hands or other filler than laminating resin. However, this

suitable tools can be used to wet out the two could vary with the resin being used, and I

pieces without damaging or dragging the advise the worker to experiment with differ-
mat to shreds. But when working with woven ent techniques on a small area initially to
roving, use as little catalyst as possible with find the best method for his particular
proper curing as it is very difficult to wet out application.
the material. On all except the most carefully applied
epoxy coated surfaces, sanding of the final
coat be required. Of course, how
will usually
FINISHING FIBERGLASS SURFACES
MUCH sanding depends not only on the
When applying fiberglass materials, only quality of the previous surface, but also the
as much resin as will saturate and conceal quality of the final surface which the worker
the fiberglass material should be used. More will accept. If the quality of the surface prior
resin than this can cause cracking and to applying the finish coat has excessive
delamination of the outer resin coat due to sanding marks, gouges, or other imperfec-
resin richness and the fact that a thick outer tions, these will NOT be hidden by the final
coating will not be properly reinforced with coat. These defects must be eliminated if a
fiberglass material. On fiberglass covering top quality finish is desired. Before sanding
work, once the fiberglass material is cov- the final resin coat, the surface should be
ered, the finish coat can be applied. For checked carefully to assure that the resin is

sheathing work the fiberglass material will sufficiently cover the fiberglass
thick to
usually be cloth, and sometimes the outer material. A finish sander is recommended
covering might be mat. In either case, the for sanding although they do work slowly. A
finishing procedures are similar. Since the value judgment will have to be made of the
final coat must be allowed to cure com- surface quality before sanding to determine
pletely, either a finish resin or a laminating the grade or coarseness of sandpaper that
resin mixed with surfacing agent should be should be started with. The less smooth and
used, although PVA mold release could be even the surface, the coarser should be the
used over the laminating resin, if available. sandpaper. But remember, if starting with a
The final resin coat should be no thicker coarse paper, more grades of sandpaper
than is required to develop a smooth varying from coarse to fine will be required
surface. Before application, the surface to get a smooth which also means
surface,
must be smooth and fair which may involve that the resin coat will probably have to be
much sanding. Pigment may be added to the thick enough to get a smooth finish without
final coat, but the primary reason for doing cutting into the fiberglass material. Where
so will be that the pigment will quickly show the material is must be built up
cut into, it

up any uneven spots in the coat being again with more material and resin.
applied. It NOT preclude the need for a
will Someone may be asking at this time how
painted finish. When using finish resin for to keep the resin coat thin and yet have
the final coat, especially with pigment, a enough thickness for proper sanding. This is
brush seems to give a smoother surface where a personal judgment on the part of the
finish than a roller, as the roller tends to worker must be made to determine the
"stipple" the surface. However, when using quality of the various coats applied as well as

62
 how to use the materials

the degree of final surface quality which will Applying deck cloth is the same proce-
be acceptable. For example, in a covering dure as doing any fiberglass covering oper-
application using a single layer of fiberglass ation using cloth. The only difference is that
cloth, three coats of resin should be suffi- because a clear surface is desired, more
cient if the job has been done with thought work will be required to get a smooth,
and consideration. However, more coats glossy, and clear surface. Sanding will be
may be required if the surfaces are not required using fine papers and eventually
smooth, and just how many will be required working with wet-or-dry papers, and even
depends on the degree of irregularity of the buffing with rottenstone abrasive and pol-
particular surface. In all cases, to get a ishes for the ultimate finish. Bare resin
smooth, yacht-like surface, there MUST be surfaces are not durable and will deteriorate
enough resin on the surface which can be in the sun much like a varnished surface,

removed by sanding to smooth out an especially on horizontal surfaces. Vertical

irregular surface, even if it might seem that surfaces may last a few seasons, but in all

too much resin is being applied. In other cases, it is best to cover a bare resin surface
words, getting a high-quality, smooth, for protection. Good protection and surface
glossy surface is largely a matter of using quality results with the clear epoxy or
plenty of plain old "elbow grease" during the urethane systems. When these coatings are
sanding sequence. applied over bare resin, final buffing and
polishing before or after the coating applica-
tion is not required, especially if these
CLEAR TRANSPARENT FINISH
products are sprayed on.
The amount of sanding and finishing is

especially important where a clear trans-

PAINTING
parent surface is desired, such as on natural
finished wood decks where the grain pattern When the desired degree of smoothness
of the wood (usually some exotic type) is to has been reached, the fiberglassed surface
be "displayed." The resin together with can be painted (except for surfaces which
fiberglass clothcome out quite transparent are to be clear as described above). Actually
by themselves on any surface. However, for "paint" should be referred to as a "final
a greater degree of clarity on such a surface, coating," because many of the modern
instead of using ordinary fiberglass cloth, a marine coatings involve rather complex
lighter and finer fiberglass cloth (often plastic formulations often referred to as
referred to as "deck cloth") is used. Because "coating systems" and do not resemble
of the qualities of deck cloth, it is virtually ordinary enamel paints which most people
impossible to see the weave of the cloth in think of when the term "paint" is used.
all but the most intense highlights once Because of the wide variety of coating
saturated and built up with resin. systems available, be sure that the system is
On many wood surfaces, the resin itself compatible with fiberglass and resin coated
will give a good deep grain color. However, surfaces, and follow the manufacturer's
in some cases of grain variation, it may be instructions for use TO THE LETTER!
desirable to stain the wood surface first. If The most common paint system involves
this is desired, an oil-based stain must NOT the use of a paint primer or enamel under-
be used. The only stain which is acceptable coat over which a marine enamel is applied.
is an alcohol-based stain. Also, do NOT use A "marine" enamel is ordinarily specified
any water-based vinyl stains as they will peel because this term usually designates a paint
off together with the resin when the resin is with the highest gloss finish in a paint
applied. manufacturer's line. For an acceptable (al-

63
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
though far from ultimate) final surface, a
compatible enamel over undercoat system
can be used, and will be the most inexpen-
sive coating. The undercoat, which can be
tinted to match the final color is
brushed onto the finished fiberglass surface.
This undercoat can be used to build up the
surface somewhat as an aid in
sanding marks, and to make this build-up,
spraying is far easier than brushing. When
spraying on the undercoat, a good thick coat
can be built up without any problem, as it is
not important how much is built-up, but
rather how much of the undercoat will later
be removed by sanding in order to provide a
smooth surface for the final enamel coating.
Sanding of the undercoat is easy, and once
smooth, usually only two coats of enamel
will be required.
Better and more expensive coating sys-
tems using plastic formulations include the
polyester, polyurethane and epoxy paints.
These types provide high-gloss, tough, dur-
able surfaces. The polyurethane systems are
one-part formulations, while the polyester
and epoxy systems consist of two parts,
although there are some one-part types
available. Because these paints are quite
specialized and varied, all that can be added
is to follow the directions for
preparation and application which
with the product.
One question which comes up frequently
concerns the use of pigmented gel coat over
the exterior surface in lieu of painting,
primarily with the idea of "duplicating" the
gel coat surface of factory produced
glass boats. This seemingly "simple" idea
hasmany complexities and problems which
must be considered, especially from the
standpoint of the amateur. Gel coat resins
are intended PRIMARILY for spraying up on
the INSIDE surface of a mold for factory
production work as will be noted in Chapter
8, and the evenness and consistency of the
coating is critical. Gel coat resin is pig-
mented polyester resin, and as such, lacks
total opacity. In the factory
64
fiberglass boat, the manufacturer normally
sprays an extra coating of black gel coat over
the previously applied pigmented gel coat in
the mold to prevent "light transference" and
sprayed or to make the gel coat opaque. Therefore,
unlike paint systems which are totally
opaque when applied OVER the hull sur-
covering face, a coat resin sprayed over the
gel
surface would lack opacity without the
black back-up just like any pigmented
polyester resin as noted earlier. Of course,
this lack of opacity will vary with the color,
but because gel coat thickness should be
kept to a minimum, coverage without
excessive resin build-up would be a prob-
lem. This is why gel coats are normally only
sprayed OVER a surface in a small area, such
as for repair work. Also, because the gel coat
is air inhibited (does not contain
wax),
surfacing agent must be added to the gel
coat when sprayed on the outside of a boat
in order for the resin to cure. The surfacing
agent must then be removed by sanding and
the entire surface will require much buffing
and finishing work to arrive at a surface gloss
equal to epoxy paint, for example. This is
much more work than smoothing down the
final resin coat and painting the surface with
one of the modern coating systems which
surface will turn out with a glossy and durable
come surface when dry without all this finish work.
Hence spraying of gel coat in this manner is
best left to the professional, and then
tempered with the recommendation of the
gel coat manufacturer, as these products do
vary considerably.
fiber- In many cases, it is not necessary to paint
the bottom of many types of boat hulls,
especially those which will not remain in salt
or brackish water, or for boats which will be
trailered. On boats covered with fiberglass
materials and especially on plywood hulls,
the final resin coat can be finished smooth
and transparent for a durable final surface
on the bottom without painting. Because
the bottom surface is not exposed to the sun
and will be in the water much of the time,
produced adding paint is merely done for cosmetic
 how to use the materials

reasons, except where anti-fouling paint is mixed into the form what is called a
resin to
required. From a practical aspect, the clear "syntactic foam," which is just another term

resin surface on the bottom also makes for a resin which has been "stretched out,"
inspection of the fiberglassed surface easy made lower in density, lighter in weight, and
for any faults or tendency to delaminate can less viscous. Both of these products look like
be quickly spotted. In areas where water a fine powder, but the grains of powder are
may get in behind the fiberglass cloth and actually hollow little balls or spheres. Micro-
the wood hull material, a dark smudge or balloons are brown in color while Micro-
black area will showthe path of the water on spheres are white, and both of the materials
sight. If the hull were painted, it would be hardly weigh anythingat all, probably about
difficult if not impossible to spot such a one pound per cubic foot or so.
defect. Also, a clear coating makes it easy to There are some arguments as to which of
see any fastenings, fractures, or other struc- these materials is better, and both com-
tural defects in the underlying structure panies will provide technical data to anyone
which would otherwise be concealed by a interested in them. However, for purposes of
painted surface. making a filler, they seem to come out about
even, although cost and availability could
be a factor in choosing one over the other.
PUTTIES & FILLERS
As a result of our testing and experience, we
There are many and epoxy
polyester think the filler made with Microballoons is
putties and fillers on the market readily somewhat easier to sand, but have heard I

available. Some of these consist of thick- others who have used both materials say just
ened added silica or
resin only (usually by the opposite. So it seems to be somewhat of
talc compounds) while others include a toss-up.
chopped strands of fiberglass material. For Mixing up a batch of filler is pretty much
convenience and economy, however, it is guesswork. It is hard to tell how much will be
easy to make your own filler or putty needed to do an area, plus how much of the
material as you need There are several
it. filler material to add in order to arrive at the
methods that can be used. First, silica can be proper consistency. The makers of Micro-
added as well as chopped fiberglass strands. spheres say that a 5% concentration BY
Usually there are plenty of scraps of fiber- WEIGHT is trowelable, and that a 10%
glass material around which can be cut and concentration is "very viscous." However,
chopped up to make a filler. Also, ordinary when working in small amounts, figuring out
sawdust with resin or glue can be used to 5% or 10% of the filler material by weight
make a filler. One problem, however, with requires a very accurate scale capable of
all these methods is that the resin filler made small increments because the f ler is so light
r I

is quite hard to sand when cured, and quite and bulky. After working with either filler for
dense and heavy, especially where the area a time, you'llprobably be able to figure
being filled is large, such as on an inside better not only how much will be needed to
corner fillet. fill an area, but howmany"handfuls" gives a

There are two products which can be used good consistency.

to make a better filler that is both easier to
sand and much lighter and less dense. These
two products are Saran Microspheres (made
by Dow Chemical), and phenolic Micro-
balloons (made by Union Carbide). Both
products may be difficult to find in small
quantities. Either of these products can be
Mixing either material in the resin is done
before catalyst is added. Use a finish resin
for mixing so the filler will cure, or add
surfacing agent. There is little problem in
mixing, although the Microspheres tend to
"ball up" like pancake batter to some extent,
but this seems to have no affect on the

65
 HOW TO FIBERCLASS BOATS

TEST PANEL-MAKING AN INSIDE CORNER

FILLET

The test panel simulates an inside corner

which may often exist on a boat hull, espe-
cially where the planking adjoins a skeg or
deadwood. In order for fiberglass material to
bond well to such a corner, a wood cant strip
or radiused fillet filler should be applied. In
this instance a filler fillet is being applied. Two
filler materials are being used. The filler to the
right is made from a mixture of polyester resin
and Saran Microspheres, while the filler to the
left is made from a mixture of polyester resin
and phenolic Microbal loons. Once the proper
consistency is arrived at, either filler material
is applied in the same manner, and the results

are also much the same. The Saran Micro-

spheres are almost white in color, while the
phenolic Microballoons are a chocolate brown
color. A putty knife is being used to position
the filler, while a polyethylene lid was used to
shape the fillet. Any similarly shaped object
could be used. For large fillet areas, it is
usually better to make two progressive appli-
cations of the fillet material, as a better job
can be done. Either of these fillet materials
sand acceptably, however, the Microspheres
tends to have a "tacky" feel causing the
sandpaper to drag. The Microballoons on the
other hand seems to react more like sanding a
hardwood.

completed application. Most lumps which
form can be eventually worked out with
enough stirring. The makers of Microspheres
state that the Saran material is sensitive to
heat and to some solvents such as styrene in
polyester resin; however, it takes several
days the liquid resin for it to lose its
in
density or for the microscopic balls to
become "collapsed." Microspheres tend to
shrink somewhat more than Microballoons,
but the difference is slight. Because both
materials are "closed cell," water absorption
is practically non-existent.
Oncethe filler is mixed to the proper
consistency, the catalyst can be added. If
you have measured the resin accurately,
merely add the proper amount of catalyst
normally required. However, if the filling
operation will involve some shaping and
forming, less catalyst might be desirable in
order to provide more working time. On the
other hand, it might be desirable for the
resin to set up faster once the material is
applied to prevent sagging, so MORE cata-
lyst would be needed. If the area being filled
is large, it may be desirable to do the work in
two or more applications to build up and
shape more carefully. If the mixture is too
thin, it will still shape satisfactorily if you
wait awhile for the catalyst to start setting up
the resin somewhat. Just about any tool can
be used to apply the material, depending on
the job. Putty knives, spoons, tin can edges,
as well as polyethylene putty spreaders and
plastic lids all work well. Once the filler has
cured hard, it can be sanded and covered
with fiberglass material and resin.

66
 how to use the materials

MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATION TIPS

On surfaces where resin and fiberglass If any of the

fiberglass material is being
material are being applied, there may be held place with tacks or staples, these
in

adjacent surfaces which you don't want to must be removed before the resin sets up
get any resin on. One place where this may also. Just as in the foregoing,
you can
occur would be on a hard chine boat hull remove the tacks and too soon,
staples
where the bottom was being covered first especially on vertical surfaces, and the
before covering the sides. In cases like this, fiberglass material may then slide down the
the sides can be covered with newspaper surface or otherwise "move."
taped in position with masking tape. The When doing a large f iberglassing job, have
fiberglass is allowed to drape over the corner at least TWO sets of application tools so that
the specified distance and masked off with one can be used while the other set is
set
the tape and newspaper to protect the being cleaned and readied for the next use.
surface below. If the surface is not protected Once a batch of resin starts to gel, the resin
this way, the resin will drain down the bare batch is not only discarded, but the tools
surface, set up, and cure. Then the excess should be cleaned before using with another
resin would have to be removed by sanding. fresh batch of resin. Rollers are very hard to
With the surface protected properly, a utility clean, and they can hold enough resin in
knife can be used to cut along BOTH the them to apply another coat in some cases.
tape and overhanging fiberglass cloth edge So, if you wear gloves, wring out this resin
for a clean and neat edge which can be from the roller using your hands before
feathered later for the overlapping piece of trying to wash the roller in solvent. For
fiberglass material. rollers, I one
prefer of the resin cleaners.
Although the fiberglass material can be
applied to an area and cut to shape initially,
there is no reason why this cannot be done
AFTER the resin has been applied in most
cases, unless you must cut the material in
advance for optimum material utilization.
However, there is a "right" time to cut any
overhanging edges, and this is neither too
soon nor too late. The best tool to use is a
utililty knife or razor blade knife with a sharp
blade. If you try to cut the material
too soon,
not only will not cut, but the material will
it

drag along the surface thereby displacing it,

and it will have to be rolled or squeegeed
down again. If you wait too long to trim, the
This photo shows the assembling of the
resin will simply be too hard and the knife centerboard trunk on a small sailboat. To
just won't cut. Of course, there are many protect the inner surfaces of the plywood
places where a disc sander can be used to trunk, the two halves of the assembly must be
covered with fiberglass cloth and resin PRIOR
trim edges once the resin does cure. The
to final assembly. Each half of the centerboard
"right" time to trim the material is about an trunk is covered separately and then the two
hour (under normal conditions) after appli- halves are joined together and fastened before
cation just before the resin sets up hard and the resin sets up. No glue is necessary as the
wet resin will bond the two halves together
yet is "stiff" enough to hold the material in and fastenings will provide the required
position. clamping pressure.

67
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
Only a small amount is required to wash out any case.
the resin, and then the roller can merely be Sooner or later the solvent used for
rinsed well with plain water and leftto dry. If cleaning will begin to accumulate too much
solvent is used, it is difficult to get rid of the resin, and because this resin has been
"stickiness" caused by residual resin. By catalyzed, it may even tend to set up and
working the roller (as well as brushes!) in a cure. It is even possible for the curing resin

bucket of sawdust after cleaning in solvent, in the solvent to get hot enough to be
much of this "stickiness" is removed. Even dangerous. This tendency seems to be more
still, using resin cleaner leaves both rollers prevalent when using acetonedue to its high
and brushes in nicer condition and thereby rate of evaporation, and
anotheris just
gives them a longer life. Many squeegees reason why prefer lacquer thinner over
I

should not be left in solvents as they can dry acetone, for clean-up as well. In all cases
out and get hard. They should be cleaned in using solvents, they are usually flammable
the solvent, washed in detergent water, and or highly volative, and all label precautions
then dried. Some types, however, should be should be followed. Store them only in
kept in clean acetone, so read the label in metal containers.

PROBLEMS-SOLUTIONS & PREVENTION

POLYESTER RESINS:

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES SOLUTION/PREVENTION

A. Resin notcuring 1. Catalyst not added. 1. Add catalyst
2. Insufficient catalyst added. 2. Check amount of catalyst used,
and try adding more.
3. Too cold. 3. Apply a "hot" batch or move
to warmer area.
B. Spotty curing 1. Improper mixingof catalyst 1 Stir catalyzed resin for at least
in resin. 2 minutes.
C. Surface too tacky 1. Applied too thin or under 1 Do not thin resin, apply under
damp or cold conditions. damp conditions, or cure
under 60 degrees without
using "cold weather additive"
in resin.

D. Too rapid curing 1. Too much catalyst. 1 Reduce catalyst used.

2. Ambient temperatures too 2 Apply during more moderate
high. temperatures.
t. Slow curing 1. Not enough catalyst. 1 Use more catalyst.
2. Ambient temperatures too 2 Apply during more moderate
low. temperatures.
F. Partially tacky surface 1. Excessive brushing at 1 Do not over-brush surface or
time of gelation brush after gelation begins.
G. Resin hard or coagulating 1. Resin too old. 1 Discard resin and use fresh
in can stock.
2. Contaminated catalyst. Discard resin batch and use
fresh catalyst.

68
 . . . how to use the materials

EPOXY RESINS

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES SOLUTIONS/PREVENTION

A. Resin not curing 1. Used only one portion. 1. Mix parts in proper ratio.
B. Spotty curing 1. Improper mixing. 1. Stir mixed resin for at least 2
minutes.
C. Slight tacky surface 1. Conditions too damp. 1. Do not apply in damp
conditions.
D. Too rapid curing 1. Too much hardener. 1. Mix per instructions
2. Ambient temperatures too 2. Apply at temperatures be-
high. tween 70-85 degrees for best
results.
E. Slow curing 1. Not enough hardener used. 1. Mix per instructions.
2. Ambient temperatures too 2. Apply at temperatures be-
low. tween 70-85 degrees for best
results.
F. Final surface too flexible 1. Mixing proportions not 1. Mix per instructions.
correct.

FIBERGLASS MATERIAL

A. Bubbles forming on wet 1. Insufficient wet-out. 1. Work bubbles out with appli-
surface cation tools.
2. Material moving on surface. 2. Tack or staple material ade-
quately to prevent movement,
or change application and
tool technique.
B. Bubbles on cured surface 1. Insufficient wet-out. 1. Sand or grind out bubble and
2. Material movement. replace with material patch
3. Vigorous or excessive stirring and fresh resin. Applies to all

of resin. causes.
C. Excessively dry or wet areas 1. Insufficient resin distribution 1. Add resin to dry areas and
squeegee out wet areas before
setting up.
D. Partial bonding 1. Dirty or greasy surface. 1. Prepare surface properly to be
free of dirt or grease.
2. Wax not removed from resin 2. Sand and wash with solvent to
coated surface. remove wax when using finish
resins.

69
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

FINISH PROBLEMS
A. Surface "blushing" 1. Surface immersed in water Let surface cure at least 3 days
too soon. before putting in water.
Uncured surface exposed to Avoid damp conditions during
wet night air, fog, etc. cure.
B. Material delaminates 1. Air bubbles in material. For satisfactory use, all appli-
2. Material improperly applied. cation procedures must be
3. Surface improperly prepared. carefully done.
4. Resin not cured.
5. Wax not removed from finish
resin between coats.
C. Paint will not adhere to Wax not removed from final Sand surface adequately
surface resin coat. before applying paint.
Paint system not properly Use paint system compatible
applied or selected. with fiberglass.
Resin not fully cured. Allow resin to cure for at least
48 hours before applying paint
coatings.
D. Resin surface comes off in 1 Resin rich area not ade- 1. Apply resin properly and
certain areas quately reinforced. evenly.
2. Resin applied over dirt, 2. Be sure surface is clean and
grease, wax, or moisture. free of these substances.

The foregoing is a representative sampling about any of the problems listed, and
resin
of the most common problems which can this is why fresh always be used.
resin should
arise. It is by no means a list of all problems In all the above solutions and preventions, it
that can occur, as there can be problems and should be noted that they all involve proper
causes in many cases that are unique to a application methods and care for satisfac-
given situation. Also, some obvious condi- tory results, even though virtually any
tions have not been listed; for example, the application mistake can be corrected.
fact that old resin can be responsible for just

70
CHAPTER 8 . . .

. . . how fiberglass boats are made

Probably one of the most common inquir-

THE "PLUG"
iesmade by the beginning amateur boat-
builder is, "Why can't I make my own The factory produced fiberglass boat is

fiberglass boat just like the factory built literally made from the outside in. This is

jobs?" Rarely does the novice understand, at
least completely, the entire process of how
mass produced fiberglass boats are made
and why the process is not usually practical
for a custom "one-off" boat. It is true that
the job can be done largely with unskilled
labor unlike the skilled craftsman once
needed to turn out high quality wood boats
in the past, and the results will probably be
acceptable as long as all the proper tech-
niques are followed and the right materials
are used. The big problem is one of cost.
In building just one fiberglass boat as
done in a factory, the builder literally must
build THREE "hulls" before getting a com-
plete one he can call his own. The first of
these "hulls" in the manufacturing process
of building fiberglass boats is
"plug." From the "plug," the next "hull"
made and this is called the "mold."
from the completed "mold," the first com-
plete hull is built. While this triple-stepped
process is not entirely universal in the
industry, it is by far the most common
method used to mass produce fiberglass
boats at the present time, and
remain so for a long time. The process
discribed in more detail so the reader
better understand the various procedures,
some of the problems involved from the
standpoint of the "one-off" amateur builder,
and why the factory method is not usually
suitable for the amateur who wants to build
only one boat.
virtually the opposite of the process of
building wood boats in the past "inside out,"
where the keel backbone was first erected
and the various frames were then set up
about the keel with construction proceeding
from this point. The fiberglass boat hull is
made inside of a "female" mold which has
been formed about the "plug" (or "male"
part). The "plug" is an exact replica of the
finished hull and indeed it might be an
actual boat hull. Many an existing hull
(whether made from wood, fiberglass, or
whatever) has been used to form the "plug"
and this is one way (although somewhat
unethical?) to reduce the cost considerably.
In fact, some unscrupulous builders who
want to cash in quickly by not taking the
called the time to design their own hulls, and go to the
is trouble and expense of making their own
And plug, will simply purchase another manu-
facturer's boat and use it as the plug. Most
often, these counterfiet builders will make a
few subtle or not so subtle changes as
necessary to "disguise" the new plug so he
can call the new boat his own creation.
is likely to The legitimate builder, on the other hand,
will be will have his boat designed first, either by his
can own staff of designers or by a reputable
naval architect. Then the plug will be built
from the designer's plans. In many cases
where the hull design is an unproven type, or
where prototype testing might be desirable,
the plug will be made into an actual boat. In
other cases the plug will be built upside-

71
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

down in the factory in a stationary position.

Many materials can be used to make the
plug using various methods of construction.
One of the most common ways to build the
plug is virtually the same way that a wood
boat would be Using wood, the plug is
built.
built upsidedown over a rough framework
on which plywood sheets and/or strips of
soft wood are "planked" over. Then fiber-
glass materials and resin are used to cover
this "hull" and built up as required. The
surface then finely ground and polished
is

smooth and flawless. To get a high degree of

perfection on this final surface, many
builders will spray many fine coats of
lacquer onto the surfaces, finishing with
wet-or-dry sandpaper, rottenstone, rubbing
compounds, and waxes. If the plug has been
made into an actual boat hull for prototype
testing, any features found wanting are
relatively easy to correct at this point before
additional tooling is done.
Another common plug material is plaster,
or "plaster-of-paris." Here again, the plug is

made over rough forms onto which "chicken

M0LD I2)
wire" or other suitable reinforcement mater-
ial draped to form the hull shape. The
is

plaster material is built up to the proper

THE THREE-STEP PROCESS OF
MANUFACTURING FIBERGLASS BOATS
In commercial
fiberglass boat production,
the standard procedure involves making vir-
tually three hulls to get the first complete one.
The first step in the process is making the
"plug" (Hull #7). The second step involves
thickness and surface shape. Then the
surface is allowed to set up and dry. Many
coats of lacquer are then sprayed and
finished until the surface is fair, smooth, and
glossy. Care must be taken in using the
plaster molds as they can chip and crack
rather easily.
Whichever method is used to make the
plug, imperative that it be perfect,
it is

making a "mold" (Hull #2) directly off the
"plug." The third step is making the first hull
(Hull #3) from the mold. The mold is com-
monly called a "female" or "cavity" mold
because the completed hull (or "male" part) is
made inside of the mold. Many complete hulls
can be made from the mold before it must be
replaced with a new mold. For "one-off" or
limited production hulls, this process is usu-
ally prohibitive in time, labor, and cost.
without flaws, and that the surface be glossy
smooth. The careful builder will take more
time in this process than in any other part of
the boatbuilding procedure because any and
all flaws will be transferred directly to the
mold where their correction will be ex-
tremely difficult. After the plug is complete,
the mold can then be built from it.

72
 how fiberglass boats are made
THE MOLD
The plug is waxed to a high gloss before to work on horizontal surfaces!), as well as
making the mold. The wax not only imparts a aiding the removal of the completed part.
in

glossy surface to the mold, but it also aids in On smaller hulls, the stiffening framework
allowing the mold to separate from the plug can be made from lumber braced as
after it is completed. After waxing, a required.
"parting agent" is applied to the surface of Sometimes there will be some difficulty in
the plug. This "parting agent" can be many removing the mold from the plug (as well as
things, but in the factory it is commonly a removing a completed part from the mold).
thin spray coating of polyvinyl alcohol This problem is usually solved by a couple of
(PVA). The wax itself acts as a parting agent solid raps with a mallet, or water or
also,and some builders depend only on the compressed air injected between the pieces
wax; however, it is not as reliable as the PVA which will usually release the sticky parts.
parting agents. In any case, once the parting When the mold has been removed from the
agent has been applied, the mold is made off plug and righted, and the surfaces checked
the plug much the same way that the first for flaws and any flaws corrected, the first
hull will be made from the mold. hull can then be built. Usually, however,
The surface of the plug is now sprayed several hulls will be required until the mold
with a coating of a special polyester resin is fully broken
although there should be
in
called "tooling gel coat" which is formulated nothing technically wrong with these first
purpose. The color of the tooling
just for this parts.
gel coat resin is usually black, which means
that the completed mold surface will be
LAYING UP THE HULL
sometimes a bright orange
black; or is used.
The color has a purpose which will be The process of building the fiberglass hull
detailed later. When the tooling gel coat has is called the "lay up" and takes place in the
cured somewhat, layers of fiberglass mater- "cavity" portion of the mold (hence the term
ials (usually mat and woven roving in "cavity mold"). The method is commonly
alternating layers) and resin are built up to a referred to as "female mold construction" as
thickness which will make the mold rigid. It opposed to "male mold construction"
is critical in factory production work that the (which is how the plug was made and is also
mold be extremely strong and rigid, as many used for making "one-off" boats in fiberglass
hulls will probably be made from such a construction as will be discussed in the
mold. The mold should therefore not change forthcoming chapter). The construction of
contour, as these changes will automatically the hull now starts by literally working from
be molded into the final hull or molded part, the outside of the hull inwards. It is this
and perhaps be detrimental to both the characteristic which allows the glossy, hard,
appearance and performance of the com- low-maintenance hull surface to be so easily
pleted boat. incorporated into the completed hull.
To increase the rigidity of the mold, and to The surface of the mold must be polished
make the final mold more mobile as well, a and waxed to a flawless sheen free of any
steel pipe framework is usually made inte- scratches, pinholes, or other imperfections.
gral with the mold. This framework is usually Again, the PVA parting agent is sprayed on
fitted with casters, and often with rotational so the completed part will be easily removed
devices (similar to a barbeque rotisserie) so from the mold. Now it will become apparent
it is easier to work with (remember it is easier

73
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

why black is usually used as the color for the It is at this point in the construction that

mold surface. Once the mold is ready for the lay up procedures will vary. The compo-
laying up, the first material applied is the sition of the fiberglass laminate can consist
"gel coat." This gel coat is a special polyester of any of several combinations of fiberglass
resin tinted to the desired color, which is mats, cloth, and woven roving or unidirec-
usually white but can be other colors also. tional rovings, or the hull can be made using
By having a black mold surface, it is easy for chopped fiberglass strands applied with a
the gel coater to determine how much spray gun device called in the trade, a
material is being applied as the gel coat "chopper gun." Also, the design may call for
contrasts with the black mold surface. the addition of various "sandwich" or core
Spraying on the gel coat is one of the most materials, reinforcing members, or even
critical parts ofbuilding the hull. The gel special "exotic" reinforcing materials (such
coat should not be so thin that the fiberglass as carbon or boron fibers) required as a part
reinforcement will be exposed or show of the design at critical areas.
through, nor so thick that the gel coat might In the smallest of boats (as well as those
chip or flake off under impact loads or considered inferior in quality in the larger
deflection of the laminate due to "resin sizes), the lay up can be done using the
richness" (too much resin in relation to "chopper gun." The chopper gun is some-
fiberglass reinforcement). If not applied what like a paint spraying gun except that it
with the proper technique or correct gel coat shoots out resin as well as chopped strands
formulation, the final hull could be a failure of fiberglass rovings and disperses these
and this may not be known until the hull has onto the gel-coated mold. The application is
been completed. Many have been the quick and easy except that the thickness of
builders who have gone out of business due the lay up is difficult to control and hence
to poor quality control and/or inexper- the final qualities of the hull construction
ienced labor causing rejected hulls directly are somewhat questionable as the lay up is
attributable to failure during this step of the directlydependent on the skill of the
lay up process. chopper gun operator. In the factory, sev-
Gel coat is virtually always sprayed and eralworkers are usually kept busy rolling out
not brushed (for reasons previously stated in and wetting out the dispersed strands fol-
Chapter 3). In general, the recommended lowing the chopper gun before the resin
thickness of application will range between cures. With the chopper gun method it is
.015" and .020", and should never exceed easy for the resin to build up to an excessive
.030" thick. A semi-rigid resin is used for the amount in some areas ("resin rich") and to
gel coat formulation as this type of resin is not have enough resin for proper wetting out
less brittle than rigid resins, but offers in other areas ("resin starved"). For these
greater resistance to weathering and a better reasons, the chopper gun method is usually
gloss than flexible resins. In other words, the relegated to very small boats as well as to
gel coat resin offers a good compromise other parts the boatbuilding procedure
in
between rigid and flexible resins for making which are not as critical from a strength and
a durable hull surface. Once the gel coat has durability standpoint.
been applied, it is allowed to set up The more acceptable and common
somewhat, but because the gel coat resin is method (at least with larger boats) is referred
an air-inhibited type (no wax), the exposed to as "hand lay up." This consists of using
surface will remain somewhat "tacky" and layers of fiberglass material (usually mat and
not cure completely. By remaining "tacky" it woven roving of various weights and qual-
will then bond properly to the following ities) cut to fit, and resin worked in place by
layers of fiberglass material. hand. The layers of material are built up to

74

the desired thickness using resin to saturate
the material and bond them together.
Reinforcement materials and sandwich
cores can be added in the process as
required to add strength and rigidity to the
hull. In this manner, the quality of the hull
can be better controlled and the strength
characteristics specified by the designer can
be more closely incorporated. A common
technique that fiberglass boatbuilders do
before commencing the lay up is to spray
another black resin coating over the pre-
viously applied gel coat. This is done for
reasons. First, the black color shows up any
defects easier when the workers are laying
up the reinforcement. Any material which is
not completely wetted out, or weakening air
bubbles in the resin or laminate, can be
easily seen and remedied. The second
reason for the black coating is that
prevents light transfer through the
laminate.
Atthis point, you might be asking yourself
many questions concerning the quality of
the finished product, especially from the
consumer's standpoint. Indeed it is virtually
impossible to determine the quality and
strength of the completed hull even if the
composition of the laminate is known.
Unlike conventional wood, or even steel and
aluminum hulls, thickness by itself is not a
guarantee of hull quality. Because quality
control is so important in fiberglass boat-
building, and to point out why the novice
may have problems if he attempts to build
his own fiberglass boat using "factory pro-
duction methods," an attempt will be made
to point out some of the problems involved.
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
One of the problems often overlooked in
fiberglass boatbuilding is the handling and
dispersion of the resin. All resin must be
fresh, properly stored and rotated, and kept
within the proper temperature range. Good
boatbuilders have special storage facilities
where the temperature does
for their resin
how fiberglass boats are made
not fluctuate greatly and the humidity is
controlled. Ideally, the resin should be kept
at temperatures between 50° and 70° (al-
though this is seldom the case). Rotating
stock is important not only from the stand-
point of the builder, but also from the
supplier, and hence good boatbuilders at-
tempt to purchase their resin supplies from
reputable sources only. Resin which is too
old or has "gone stale" will not give optimum
strength and durability characteristics
needed in a hull laminate.
two Even if the resin is properly handled and
catalyzed, often the workers will be so
unskilled that the resin will be improperly
applied. they are not careful, the workers
If
can get too many air bubbles in the resin and
transfer these to the laminate. Or, there may
be a tendency to get too much resin in some
it areas (especially corners and low areas of
hull the mold), and not enough resin into other
areas (especially upper hull sides and over-
head areas). In either case, the finished
laminate will not have the strength that the
designer intended, and serious problems
could result in the future of the boat.
Cleanliness, temperature, and humidity
are probably three of the most important
elements in the control of quality in the
manufacture of fiberglass boats. Fiberglass
materials which get "dirty," especially with
grease or oil, will not bond correctly in the
laminate. Then too, high humidity (too
much moisture in the air) will cause "craz-
ing" or localized delamination within the
laminate. And for proper curing and cata-
lyzing of the resin thetemperature range in
the work area should be strictly held within
a range of 70° to 85° ideally. Temperatures
above these limits will cause the resin to
cure too rapidly, causing shrinkage of the
laminate and perhaps distortion of the
completed part, while temperatures below
these limits may prevent proper curing and
consequent bonding of the laminate.
There are many other problems too num-
erous to discuss here, but the preceeding
should give some idea of the technological
75
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

difficulties that the fiberglass boatbuilder involved in making just one boat in the
must contend with. And from the standpoint manner described will hardly be practical,
of the consumer, his best assurance of and that there is a chance that the com-
getting a quality product is to know the pleted hull might turn out to be a "flop." Of
reputation of the manufacturer, or at least course, there is always a chance that
try to check out the manufacturer's factory additional boats could be made from the
to see how they operate. As can be seen from mold to defer the initial investment. But
the above, the "human element" plays a big getting rid of several boats might be a
part in the quality of factory-built fiberglass problem unless a group can be formed
boats. beforehand to share the work and expense.
As far as the novice is concerned who Even then, it is unlikely that the boats could
wants to make his own fiberglass boat "just be produced more cheaply than the cost of a
like the factory-built jobs," it has been ready-made boat on such a small-scale
shown that the time, effort, and cost operation.

7b
 . . . introduction

Now that the subject of fiberglassing is

more readily understood, as well as the

process of building boats by factory meth-
ods, it is highly probable that the reader may
well think that fiberglass is the only material
which can be used for covering work, and
also he may be discouraged from attempting
to build his own fiberglass boat. However,
there are other materials and methods which
can be used with or as a substitute for
fiberglass suitable for the amateur, both
from a covering standpoint and for building
a "one-off" boat. Note that some of these
materials will compete with fiberglass ma-
PART II terials, or complement them (that is, func-
tion as a composite material), or both! Some
of these materials and processes are rela-
tively new as of this writing, and perhaps
have not "stood the test of time." In
addition, there chance that some of
is a
these materials may not even be viable
alternatives due to present world conditions
(material shortages, distribution problems,
inflation, etc.). In some cases there is very
little technical information or experience
available, at least on a formal level, and
what be mentioned may be little more
will
than a cursory glance based upon rather
incomplete data.
The next chapters will include discussions
on some ways that an amateur can build his
own fiberglass boat using such materials as
"C-Flex" fiberglass planking, and the many
core materials, including wood, plywood,
balsa, and the various synthetic plastic
foams being used in conjunction with the
male mold method to build "one-off" boats.
Alsodiscussed are other sheathing materials
and processes such as Vectra polypropylene
fabric, Dynel modacrylic fiber fabric, Arabol
polyvinyl glue in conjunction with various
fabrics, and Cascover sheathing.

77
 CHAPTER 9 . . .

. . . "one-off" construction methods

What is "one-off" construction? Gener- because of this feature, the PRIMARY

ally speaking, it means that only one boat of problem with the male mold processes is
a given design will be built; or in other that because the lay up is not made against a
words, it be a custom-built boat. The
will smooth and glossy mold surface, a lot of
term also refers to a limited production boat work and trouble must be expended in
in which the basic forming members used to arriving at a finished hull surface which will
construct the boat would be used to build equal that produced in a female mold.
only a few boats at most. The builder would
realize that it would be uneconomical to
SANDWICH CONSTRUCTION
"tool up" for series production as is com-
monly done for factory-built fiberglass Swiss cheese and ham on rye is one form
boats. A one-off boat can be built from any of "sandwich construction," with the cheese
common boatbuilding material, but this and ham serving as the "core material" and
book is concerned with fiberglass materials the bread "encapsulating" these in the form
and resin only. In this chapter a look will be of "outer laminations." Sandwich construc-
taken at some of the methods available at tion in one-off boat construction is basically
the present time by which it is possible to the same and hence the nomen-
principle,
build a one-off boat using these materials. clature. A "core material" (which can be
Both professional yards and amateurs can wood, end-grain balsa, plywood, or syn-
use the one-off methods that follow. In all thetic plastic foams) is "encapsulated" in

the methods under consideration, the boat "outer laminations" composed of fiberglass
hull is built over a formwork which may or materials and resin. The purpose of the core
may not remain a part of the hull, and material is to separate the outer laminations
imparts the shape to the boat. Around this and keep them apart, and in so doing add
formwork are applied various materials over strength and rigidity to the final product.
which the fiberglass laminate is laid up. The Because two or more materials are used in
purpose of these meth.ods is to duplicate as the construction methods, it is often re-
closely as possible the attributes of regular ferred to as "composite" construction,
factory-built fiberglass boats without the where the sum total of qualities is greater
expense and trouble of the female mold than the individual qualities of each com-
process discussed in Chapter 8. Because the ponent in the composite.
hull is shaped OVER a formwork (instead of In one-off sandwich construction the core
within the "female" cavity mold), the one- material is usually relatively thick or bulky in
offmethods following are also referred to as relation to the outer laminates and of rather
"male mold" methods. Unlike the female low strength, while theouter laminations are
mold process where the boat is built from thin and of high strength. The
relatively
the outside IN, these male mold methods integrity of sandwiched laminate is
the
mean that the boat is built from the inside directly dependent on the bond between the
OUT (just like the good old days!). And outer laminations and the core material, as

78
 "one-off" construction methods

well as the physical integrity of the core Secondly, wood core material IS thick
if the
material. If the bond sandwich
fails, or the enough, probably be strong enough IN
it will
decomposes, the strength of the sandwich ITSELF to serve as a hull material without the
composite is weakened. For these reasons, a need for outer laminates. In this case the
core material should be selected carefully to sandwich method is quite useless and a
assure that it will not break down (at least waste of time, money and work. Of course,
substantially) in use, and that the bond will conversely, if the wood is made thinner, it

not fail. willprobably be too weak to serve as a core

For one-off boat construction using fiber- material. You CAN, however, protect such a
glass and resin, only a few
there are hull on the outside with a layer or two of
acceptable core materials, and they must be fiberglass material, but this is NOT sandwich
used with thought and consideration if a construction.
durable and safe product is to result. The An exception to the foregoing consists of
next few paragraphs will discuss some of using awood core made up of thin longi-
these core materials. tudinal strips edge-nailed together over
temporary forms using a light wood such as
ordinary pine. The boat shown in Chapter 10
CORE MATERIALS
was built by such a process with the pine
Probably the most immediate core ma- stripwood core together with laminations of
terial to come to mind is ordinary wood. Vectra polypropylene fabric and resin to
Indeed, fiberglass boatbuilders commonly form the outer laminates. Here the wood
use wood encapsulated in the fiberglass hull core is light enough to be practical for a core
to reinforce relatively large and/or flat areas material as well as being inexpensive and
inthe form of long heavy stringers to support easy to build. The completed hull in this
engines, as well as various other stringers to instance is a "monocoque" or stress-skin
reinforce the hull shape, etc. But to use unit which does not require any framing.
wood (such as used to build wood boats in Other than the above exception, about
the past) would not be very practical as a the only place where some wood IS suitable
core material as would be quite heavy, and
it for a core material is in large flat areas (such
some degree of expansion and contraction as a transom or flat bottom surface). In such
would probably cause cracking and splitting cases a sheet of encapsulated plywood will
of the outer laminates. Besides this, depend- give enormous strength using much thinner
ing on the wood used, there could be outer laminates than if the area were built up
bonding problems between the laminates in thickness with fiberglass and resin alone

(especially with woods like oak and teak).
The next thought which comes to mind is
to take the wood, cut it into thin planks
much like veneer, and make the core using
the double diagonal planking method, or
even use plywood cut into strips for this
to arrive at this strength. Fiberglass boat
manufacturers commonly use plywood
sheets to reinforce transom and flat bottom
surfaces not only for better strength and
rigidity,but because it's cheaper and lighter
in weight. But unless the boat being built is a

purpose. Why not use this relatively inex- virtual box, using a plywood core is not very
pensive material to form the core and cover practical.
both sides with fiberglass laminates? This To diverge into controversy for a moment,
can be done but there are some practical I'd like to comment on two matters that
reasons against the idea. First, any wood always seem to crop up in any discussion
which would be bulky enough for a suitable using plywood and fiberglass materials. One
core material would also be quite heavy is the question of whether or not wood will

thereby making the composite too heavy. rot if encapsulated in fiberglass, and two,

79
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
should the INSIDE of a plywood boat be any moisture that can cause rot. Just about
covered with fiberglass and resin, thus any plywood boat (whether sheet or double
basically forming a sandwich structure? diagonally planked) will have members
Unfortunately, these two seemingly separ- inside, whether they be frames, bulkheads,
ate matters are inextricably linked and or stringers, around which it will be very
cannot be answered directly. With factory difficult to apply the fiberglass material and
produced fiberglass boats, it is common to saturate it with resin WITHOUT getting air
install a sheet of plywood against the bubbles. Once an
air bubble is formed, so
transom area of the mold after some portion too an "entrance" for moisture. Just add
is

of the outer laminate together with the gel the right temperature together with stagnant
coat has been applied. Then the transom is air, and you've got rot! Besides this, the

covered on the inside with additional lam- designer of the boat probably coupled a lot
inate so that the entire plywood panel is of experience and thought to arrive at the
"sealed." ideal thickness of planking required for
Will this plywood panel eventually rot strength and durability, and what little extra
away? Probably not. But parts of it might! It reinforcing imparted by the inside fiberglass
all depends on many variables, including the could more than be offset by eventual
quality of the laminate (any air bubbles or rotting which might occur in the structure.
voids?), the quality of the plywood panel On top of these reasons, it's a heck of a lot of
(was it Or
at the proper moisture content? work, and at today's prices for resin and
"wet?"), whether or not holes were cut fiberglass materials, just seems like a waste
it

through the completed transom and sealed
properly, etc. have heard the argument
I "breathe," and if it worries you, douse it with
that fiberglass and resin actually PREVENTS
wood from rotting, but I have also heard
more than once from boat repairmen who
were attempting to work on a fiberglass hull
(such as installing outboard motor mount-
ings and other through-hull fittings) that
when they drilled through an area (like the
transom) containing a plywood core, they
ran into void areas, and indeed found the
plywood in a "punky" condition with the
fiberglass laminate in less than rigid con-
dition. One reason for this could be that an
inferior grade of plywood was used origin-
ally, or the moisture content was not
correct. Whenever plywood is to be used in a
boat it should always be at least Exterior
grade or Marine grade; Interior grade ply-
woods should never be used.
Regarding the use of fiberglass covering
on the INSIDE of plywood boats, it is more or
less because of the problem just cited that
the practiceis not generally recommended.
The big problem with covering the inside of
the boat with fiberglass material is getting a
high degree of integrity which will lock out
of time, effort, and money. Let the wood
a good wood preservative and paint the
surfaces (if you like clean bilges).
BALSA CORE
One wood that does make an acceptable
core material is balsa. While botanically
speaking balsa is actually classed as a
"hardwood," it is still quite physically "soft."
However, when arranged so the end grain is
in compression (as if you cut off a block and
stood on it on edge), the balsa wood is
amazingly strong. This feature, together
with light weight and resulting buoyancy of
the wood, makes balsa suitable for a core
material in one-off construction. The com-
mon application material of balsa consists of
small squares (about 2" square) of end-grain
chunks of balsa arranged over a light scrim
or fabric to form a somewhat flexible
"sheet." The size of the sheet varies and
common thicknesses are 1/4", 3/8", 1/2",
3/4", and By arranging these squares on
1".
the scrim fabric, the sheet will easily form to
contours common in boatbuilding, plus the

HO

i
 "one-off" construction methods

BALSA CORE SANDWICH CONSTRUCTION

Factory built fiberglass boats are often rein-
forced with balsa core material (a). This photo
shows a common example of a boat hull being
made in a female mold as is done in the
factory. The outer hull skin {including the gel
coat and outer fiberglass reinforcing saturated
with resin) has already been applied, and the
workers are now laying sheets of end grain
balsa in position. When this is completed, the
inner skin laminate can be made (b). This
photo clearly shows the square pieces of balsa
core material coated with resin and being
covered with fiberglass mat. Subsequent layers
of fiberglass reinforcing material will be used
to complete the laminate. If a section or piece
of the completed sandwich composite were
cut away from the boat, it would resemble the
illustration (c). This shows the relatively thick
low density core in relation to the relatively
thin and strong high density outer skins. In
most cases, the fiberglass material used adja-
cent to the core material on either side will be
fiberglass mat. This is usually followed by
subsequent layers of woven roving and mat as
required to form a strong hull. By using the
sandwich core method, less fiberglass material
and resin is required than if no core material
was used, assuming eqUal strength and rigid-
ity. Hence, sandwich core construction offers
lighter weight with comparable material sav-
ings in most cases.

81

A
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
resin will flow in between the squares for
good bonding. The use of balsa core is
common with factory built fiberglass boat
manufactures usingfemalemold techniques
as the builder can lay up the sheets inside the
mold, have it adapt and form to contoured
surfaces, and reinforce the hull with less
weight than if a thicker all-fiberglass lam-
inate was used, plus reserve bouyancy is
added in the process. Using balsa core in this
manner can be described as female mold
sandwich construction.
But what about male mold "one-off"
construction? The material can be used for
one-off construction, and during the late
60's, there were several prominent one-off
boats built using balsa core sandwich meth-
ods. But the interest at this time seems to be
leaning toward other materials for sandwich
cores, especially foams which will be dis-
cussed next. The procedures in building a
one-off boat using balsa core are basically
the same as for the foams, except for the
different core material used. There are some
designers who recommend that the balsa
core NOT be carried below the waterline on
one-off boats built over male molds as they
contend that the outer skin WILL absorb
some moisture and consequently cause the
balsa to get wet and possibly rot. There may
be some truth to this as the fiberglass skins
on one-off boats will absorb more moisture
than on a female molded boat due to the
virtue of the gel coat and adjacent mat
which largely prevents water absorption in
female molded boats. However, the balsa
manufacturers point out that balsa is closed
cell, thereby localizing any water which
might seep in, and also state that it would
take adamaged portion of the outer skin to
allow enough incursion of water to cause
problems. It should be pointed out that
balsa core for sandwich construction is
accepted by Lloyd's Register of Shipping,
which says a lot for the durability of the
material.
Some other qualities of balsa for a core
material might be important in deciding if
82
. . .
the material should be used for a one-off
boat. Balsa core soaks up vibration and is
highly fatigue resistant (which not the case
is
for some foams). Balsa cores can withstand
heat, plus they have good thermal and
sound insulation capabilities. Of course,
impact strength is tremendous when used in
the composite and the material has good
shock absorbing ability. On the other hand,
balsa core material is much more expensive
per square foot than ordinary plywood of the
same thickness, but probably about the
same as some foam materials. Another
problem is distribution and shipping. Lo-
cating a source for balsa may be difficult,
and if the material must be shipped, bulky
lightweight materials usually cost more to
ship than denser, more compact materials.
FOAMS- POLYSTYRENE
To the novice, foam is foam and as far as
he's concerned all foam is "styrofoam" (just
like all gelatin dessert is "jello," right?). Of
course, this is not true but people have a
habit of applying trade names to a wide
range of similar products. However, "styro-
foam" (which incidentally is the trade name
for polystyrene foam made by the Dow
Chemical Company) is hardly a suitable core
material for one-off boats. It's not only too
brittle,but structurally unsound as well. On
top of this, polyester resins can't be used
with the material because the styrene in the
resin attacks the foam on contact. Try
mixing a batch of polyester resin in a
Styrofoam cup and you'll quickly see what I
mean; the bottom of the cup will fall out
virtually on contact (together with a large
glob of resin).
Styrofoam can be used for incidental
items such as reserve flotation material, and
for insulative purposes. But because of its
low strength, styrofoam should be limited to
non-structural applications. If you insist on
using polystyrene foam with fiberglass ma-
terials, the foam can be covered with a
barrier coating of epoxy resin, and a lay up of
 "one-off" construction methods
fiberglass and polyester resins made over
this, although the process would be some-
what expensive. For flotation purposes,
chunks of the foam can be cut to any size or
shape and put into various places in a boat.
To estimate the amount of flotation, one
cubic foot of foam will support about 55 to
60 lbs. (this figure also applies to the other
foams mentioned in this chapter).
FOAMS- POLYURETHANE
Most people are familiar with polyur-
ethane foam in its flexible form as used for
seat cushions, and popularly referred to as
"foam rubber." In boatbuilding, polyur-
ethane foam is used in its rigid form, as well
as the "pour-in-place" type, which changes
into the rigid foam. Polyurethane foam is
available in chunks and slabs which can be
easily shaped and cut to any configuration.
The material is often used in sheet form as a
structural sandwich core material between
laminations of fiberglass material and resin.
However, one of the problems with rigid
polyurethane foam is that the material will
tend to disintegrate and crumble when
subjected to excessive vibration and pound-
ing (common conditions in both powerboats
and sailboats). The effect on the foam is to
literally turn it into dust. With regard to all
important strength characteristics, rigid
polyurethane foams are about one-half the
strength of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) foams,
discussed next. Even in crushability, the
polyurethane foam is about one-half that of
PVC foams (which are not too great in this
respecteither!). This does not mean that the
one-off builder should exclude the use of
polyurethane foam for building a boat.
What it does mean, though, is that the use of
polyurethane foam should be restricted to
smaller craft or those not subjected to
adverse conditions. Some designers recom-
mend the use of polyurethane foam in fairly
large boats, plus there are suppliers selling
the foam for boatbuilding purposes, but the
low strength qualities plus the tendency to
disintegrate under vibration and pounding
cannot be denied (at least at this point in
history). Another problem with the rigid
polyurethane foam is that it does not bend
easily, even when heated, which means that
some contoured shapes may be difficult to
make. However, polyurethane foam is much
cheaper than PVC foam.
In spite of the above reasons, or because
of them, you may decide on using polyur-
ethane foam as a core material in sandwich
construction. Basically, it can be handled
much the same way as PVC foam except for
the difficulty in bending. Also, initially
polyurethane foams are somewhat softened
by polyester resins in the liquid state, but
rather slowly and not noticeably. As the
resin cures, the dissolution stops and the
resin bonds to the foam material. In order to
keep this dissolution to a minimum, some-
times a "hot coat" of resin is initially applied
to the foam surface. A "hot coat" is a coating
of resin which can be "thinned" as well as
"over catalyzed" so it will set-up rapidly and
act as a seal coat on the foam. Then the
reinforcing fiberglass material can be ap-
plied over this coat and there will be no
danger of dissolving the foam material.
The pour-in-place foam is also of the
polyurethane type. While this foam is not
ordinarily used as a sandwich material, it
does have applications in one-off construc-
tion such as filling void areas of "chambers"
for use as a flotation material. While the
rigid polyurethane foam can also be used for
flotation material, the pour-in-place type is
ideal for hard-to-reach areas or for spaces
which are irregular in shape. The pour-in-
place foam consists of two liquid compon-
ents that, when added together, create a
reaction causing the mixture to rise and
expand much like bread dough. The mixture
expands to many times its original volume
and becomes rigid very quickly, usually
within a minute. It is difficult to determine
not only the quantity to use, but also which
way the expanding foam will go, as it tends
to have a "mind of its own." In fact, when
83
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
used in some confined spaces it is possible to
use too much of the mixture and literally
have the material "bust out the seams" of the
confiningobject. For these reasons, it is best
to make a "trial run" with a small amount
the product.
The pour-in-place foam has good adhe-
sion qualities and will bond well to polyester
resins, wood, and metal surfaces. The foam
is resistant to salt water, oil, gasoline, and
some solvents, but not strong mineral acids
and alkalis. It is extremely important to
follow the directions provided by the
ufacturer. Complete and rapid mixing of the
two parts is essential as the mixture will react
within a minute of mixing. Hence, a me-
chanical beater in an electric drill (for
example) should be used for mixing. It is best
to mix smaller quantities and fill the void
area with thefoam mixture in several smaller
batches as opposed to trying to make the fill
in one pouring. This will allow better and
more even distribution of the material in the
void area.
The area to be filled should be clean and
freefrom dust and dirt. Any seams or holes
should be sealed to prevent any of the foam
mix from leaking or seeping out of the area
where not desired. Temperature has a lot to
do with the volume of foam obtained as well
as the time it takes for a complete reaction.
Lower temperatures will result in less vol-
ume and a somewhat longer period for the
reaction to complete. If the ambient temp-
eratures are TOO cold, an incomplete
reaction can occur. If possible, the area
where the foam is to be poured should be
heated somewhat order to assure a good
in
foam as well as to get
distribution of the
more volume (and hence more value) from
the batch of material. One way to provide
the heat is to use ordinary light bulbs for a
short period of time in the immediate area to
be filled. Wait until the reaction is complete
before adding fresh foam mix to the pre-
viously applied foam.
Care should be taken when working with
pour-in-place foams. The material is
84
during mixing and the vapors should not be
inhaled. Work only in a well-ventilated area.
Any foam splashed on the skin should be
immediately removed by thorough washing.
of Some type of plastic gloves, as well as
protective or old clothing, should be worn
when using the foam. Containers should be
kept well sealed and away from direct
sunlight and extreme heat. The pour-in-
place foam ingredients deteriorate in the
presence of air in their liquid form, and
containers should therefore be kept well
man- sealed. Always try to buy fresh stock.
Acetone can be used to clean tools and
equipment.
USING POUR-IN-PLACE FOAM
Polyurethane pour-in-place foam can be
used in void areas of the hull for flotation
material. An irregularly shaped area such as
this bow chamber is ideal for this type of
foam. One pouring has been made, but there
are areas where the foam has not filled the
void entirely. For best results to assure an even
and thorough distribution of the foam, a panel
can be placed over the area with several good
sized holes made with a hole saw. A 2"
diameter hole is a good size and the plugs can
be replaced and glued back into position after
more foam has been poured. With the holes
made, the next batch of foam can be poured
through one of the holes, and the excess foam
will be forced through the other holes thereby
Whenever
filling the balance of the cavity.
foam is poured into a confined space, holes
should be drilled to allow the excess foam to
escape. If this is not done, and too much foam
is poured in, the foam can cause the confining
toxic structure to rupture.

FOAMS-POLYVINYL CHLORIDE
foam is
Polyvinyl chloride (or "P-V-C")
becoming more widely known due to the
promotional efforts on the part of AIREX,
Limited, Switzerland, a major producer of
the product. The company is quick to point
out that there are two types of PVC foam.
One type is classed as "chemically blown
cross-linked PVC," and the other is pro-
duced under a high-pressure process with-
out theaid of chemical blowing agents. This
latter type is produced from pure PVC. The
first type is very brittle, friable (crumbles
easily), and breaks when bent. The latter
type, on the other hand, is rigid elastic,
non-friable, and will not break even when
bent to 180°. This latter type is the variety
produced for boatbuilding by AIREX and the
type referred to in this section. Much of the
information given here is taken directly from
publications as well as verbal and written
communications from the AIREX firm, who
seem to be very cooperative in supplying
data on the PVC product.
While PVC foam is an excellent flotation
material, its primary attributes are
strength qualities, especially when used
core material sandwich construction. PVC
in
foam can be used for reinforcing large areas
of fiberglass hulls built by the female mold
method used in production boatbuilding by
laying panels of the foam in place in
fiberglass laminate against the mold surface
much like balsa core material. For limited
production one-off boats, the material is
usually used over a male mold or form
consisting of mold frames around which are
sprung longitudinal stringers closely spaced.
The foam sheets are then attached to this
formwork and the fiberglass laminate of the
outer skin is applied. When this is com-
pleted, the hull is removed from the form
and righted into a supporting cradle. Then
the inside hull surfaces are laid up with a
suitable fiberglass and resin laminate, there-
by completing the sandwich hull.
Because the hull is not made in a female
"one-off" construction methods
mold, considerable work must be done to
make the outer hull surfaces fair, smooth,
and yacht-like. This is usually accomplished
by sanding and building up of the outer resin
coatby using a suitable filler. The amount of
work and filler used, however, depends
much on the initial fairness of the hull as
well as the fairness and care given to the
successive lay up. In any case, such a filler
coat should be kept to a minimum thickness.
Once the hull surface is faired, the hull is
painted.
The qualities of PVC foam over the other
types previously mentioned are many. First
off, the PVC foam recognized as an
is
approved core material by many boatbuild-
ing authorities such as Lloyd's Register of
Shipping and the Ministry of Transport of
both Canada and the United Kingdom. The
foam does not crumble, break down, or
absorb water even if the outer laminate is
punctured. The foam can be compressed up
to 50% of its thickness without destroying
the cell structure. What this means is that
the sandwich composite can suffer a con-
its siderable impact without damaging the core
as a or the integrity of the composite. What's
more, the composite will tend to regain its
former shape as the foam seems to have a
built-in "memory" for this sort of thing. As
with other foams, the qualities of good
the insulation (both heat and sound), plus lack
of condensation on the inside of the boat
result with PVC foams. Also, the material is
easy to work with, as it can be cut with a
knife, sanded, machined, and thermo-
formed after heating to 200°F.
There are some disadvantages with PVC
foam, some of which are shared with other
foams as well. Mainly, the PVC foam is
expensive and not readily available, com-
pared to other materials. Plus, the formwork
required for the male mold is a bit more
elaborate than required for other materials,
such as plywood. The foam requires care in
designing as well as in application under
certain conditions. For example, because
85
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

M
H(>
 "one-off" construction methods

"ONE-OFF" FOAM CORE SANDWICH

CONSTRUCTION USING A MALE MOLD
This series of photographs shows the pro-
cedures of building a "one-off" boat using
sandwich construction with a foam core. The
boat being built is a fairly large sailboat using
"AIREX" PVC foam. The principles are similar
for polyurethane foams, although this type of
foam is not recommended for a boat this
large.
The mold frames or transverse members are
used to determine the basic hull shape. These
are often spaced to suit the station lines of the
designer's drawings, or can be spaced any
suitable distance apart. The mold frames are
made to the contour of the hull LESS the
thickness of the longitudinal battens, foam
material, and outer skin. The longitudinal
battens are usually 7" x 2" strips spaced apart
two to three times the thickness of the foam
being used, and are fastened to the mold
frames. The keel area along the centerline is
built of solid fiberglass laminate in order to
provide adequate bearing strength for the
ballast keel and through-hull fittings. This area
is therefore built up initially with solid wood
The hull is removed from the mold once the
outer laminate has been applied. The hull will
be very flexible at this point and must be
prevented from distorting. A cradle is made to
support the hull rigidly in the upright position
so the inner laminate can be applied. The solid
laminate along the keel centerline area is
clearly shown. The edges of the foam which
adjoin this solid area should be radiused so the
fiberglass material will conform without caus-
ing air bubbles. The workers are using rollers
with long handles to wet out the fiberglass
material while others are brushing the resin up
onto the vertical surfaces. When the inner
laminate is completed, the various bulkheads
can be installed and the hull completed.

members to the thickness of the foam and

shaped as required. The wood portion is
coated with a parting agent so the hull can be
pulled free from the male mold.
Sheets of the foam material are fastened in
virtually any sequence to the completed male
mold. In the photographs, the sheets are being
placed athwartships for convenience, although
they could be placed in any other direction on
another type of boat, joints in the foam will
allow some of the resin to seep through onto
the mold members possibly making it difficult
to remove the completed hull from the male
mold. This can be prevented by backing up PVC FOAM THERMOFORMING OVEN
the joint with a plastic film, or the entire mold AIREX PVC foam is thermoplastic and can
could be covered with this material. The foam be formed if heated to approximately 200°F.
sheets can be screw fastened through the Heating the foam, which is usually only re-
battens from the underside of the mold, or the quired in areas of extreme compound curva-
foam can be surface nailed using small headed ture, can be done in a simple "oven" made
nails which are later pulled through from the from plywood using a strip heater and fan. The
underside after the outer laminate has been "oven" should be put on casters so it can be
applied. In some cases, the foam can be moved to the area where the foam is being
"sewn" in place using tough nylon thread applied. For spot forming or in limited areas,
around the battens. Nails with thin plywood an industrial hand blower heater or even a
"washers" are being used in the photographs heat lamp or naked light bulb of high wattage
to hold the foam down on the mold so the can be used. However, the air temperature
foam can be fastened from the underside with should not exceed 200°F as the foam will
screws. The plywood "washer" protects the smoke and burn. Sometimes, small inden-
foam from the hammer, distributes the pres- tations in the foam will occur during the work
sure, and makes removing the nail easy. and these can be removed by local application
Whichever method is used to hold the foam in of heat as the foam will return "by memory" to
place, no more fasteners than are necessary to its original position.
do the job should be used, as they must be
removed from the underside in order to re-
move the hull from the mold.

87
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
the foam crushes relatively easily, certain
areas of the construction must be reinforced
with other materials. The keel area of a
sailboat with outside ballast should not have
any foam material between the fiberglass
layers where the bolts pass through as the
foam will be crushed. The same applies to
areas where cleats, chainplates, winches,
and other through-hull mountings are re-
quired. These areas must be backed up with
solid bearing materials or backing blocks.
Another unique condition is that the mater-
ial does not stand heat too well. At about
140°, the foam will start to become flexible.
This can be a problem any area of the boat
in
where heat will be concentrated (such as
around engines and exhaust systems) as well
as deck surfaces which are painted with a
heat absorbing color such as yellows, reds,
blues, or black. For this reason, deck
surfaces using the foam should be kept light
Of course, many
colored, preferably white.
of the above problems can be overcome by
using plywood decks covered with fiber-
glass.
PVC FOAM BOATBUILDING-GENERAL
PRINCIPLES
The easiest way to build a one-off boat
usingthefoam sandwich principle is to build
the hull upsidedown over a male mold or
form. This form is made from ordinary
lumber consisting of a series of frame
members which correspond to the lines of
the hull MINUS the thickness of the outer
skin, and the longitudinal stringers,
core,
which are closely spaced lengthwise over
the erected frames. In areas of the hull
where the keel will be attached, and in
similarsituations where the foam should not
be used, the form is built up with solid
members to the outer surface of the foam
core material. These solid members must be
coated with parting film such as cellophane
or wax release agent so the fiberglass
laminate applied to the surface will pull free
when the completed hull is removed from
88
the formwork and righted.
Numerous methods can be used to attach
the foam sheets to the formwork longitud-
inals. The sheets can be nailed from the top
surface, screwed from the underside, and
even "sewn" on. It is important that the
formwork be true and fair, as the better it
looks at this point, the easier will be the job
of getting a fair hull in the end. The foam can
be put over the form in just about any
sequence. Edges of the foam can be joined
using resin to form a bond, although this is
not required for the strength of the boat. The
edges can merely be butt joined dry if
desired. The foam sheet does not always
take an expected shape as with a plywood
sheet, and may entail some cutting and
forming, but this is usually minor in nature.
If there are rather tight bends, the foam may
require heating first. For large areas or where
a full sheet must be formed with heat, a
suitably sized "oven" can be made. The heat
required minimal (about 200°F.
is very
maximum). Spot forming can be done with a
heat lamporeven a high wattage naked light
bulb, although be careful nottomelt or burn
the material in so doing. Once the foam has
been applied, the surface should be faired to
be smooth and even. This can be done with
ordinary sanding and surface forming tools.
Small cracks at butt joints will not cause any
problem with thefinal sandwich, although it
is best to fill with a fiberglass putty. Large
gaps, however, should be filled in with foam
scraps. All overhanging edges can be
trimmed once all the foam has been applied.
With the foam applied, the lay up of the
outer laminate can proceed. Polyester resin
in contact with the foam will tend to soften
it,especially if uncatalyzed. Therefore, the
surface must be sealed first. If AIREX foam is
being used, the manufacturer of the foam
has taken care of this by spraying a thin
coating of cobalt napthanate onto the
surface. You can tell if this has been done, as
the surface of the foam will have a purple
cast unlike the usual yellow color of the
foam . If the foam has not been sealed, a thin
 "one-off" construction methods

The foam can be attached to the longitudinal

battens by using a small headed nail. After the
fiberglass laminate has been applied, the nail
is pulled through the foam from the underside

so the hull can be released from the male

mold.

The foam can be attached first with nails fitted

with "washers" made from plywood at several
points to keep the foam in place. Then screws
can be used from the underside into the foam.
The surface nails are then removed and the
fiberglass laminate applied. The screws are
removed from the underside so the hull can be
released from the male mold.
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
coat of overcatalyzed laminating resin
should be applied to seal the foam. It is
important to keep this coat thin so the partly
open cells of the foam are not filled up
completely. The good bonding character-
istics of the foam
result from these partly
open contact with the resin and first
cells in
layer of the laminate. Because polyester
resin does make such a good bond, there is
really no reason to use the more expensive
epoxy resins.
The AIREX people recommend that the
seal coat (if not factory sealed as noted
above) should be a pigmented polyester
resin which will preferably cure tack-free
(wax added!). They claim that this will allow
the resin to cure more thoroughly and that
the pigment will allow the builder to
determine better the evenness with which
the seal coat is being applied. Supposedly
the wax resin does not affect the bonding of
the successive layers of fiberglass and resin,
and sanding or using solvents to remove the
wax should not be attempted (acetone and
lacquer thinner will attack the foam so be
careful with these around the foam).
Right
// fhe PVC foam not coated with a seal coat
is
from the supplier, it must be coated with a
"hot" seal coat of resin before applying the
first layers of fiberglass material and resin. The
partly open cells of the foam should not be
filled up with resm This process will provide
the ultimate bond with the laminate.
90
The lay up procedure is virtually the same
as would be used for building any fiberglass
boat, with the most common system being
alternating layers of mat and woven roving.
Mat as theinitial layer is preferable to woven
roving as the mat will bond better to the
foam. Mat should also be used as the final
layer on the outside of the hull in order to
make fairing the surface easier, plus the fact
that themat will have a greater resin content
and therefore absorb less water. Surfacing
veil and lightweight 3/4 to 1 oz. mats are
better for this layer than the heavier mats
used in the lay up. A layer of this surfacing
veil or mat is commonly used against a layer
of heavier mat on the outer lamination.
applying the fiberglass materials, do
In
NOT any joints. Use butt joints through-
lap
out, staggering the butt joints between
successive layers of the laminate. For added
strength, the layers of fiberglass material can
be laid in a double diagonal manner. Or, the
builder could elect to use the unidirectional
rovings alternating the direction of the
rovingsto utilize their strength or using them
in one direction where strength in that
direction is important. Unidirectional rov-
ings are more expensive than mat or woven
roving, and when used, there is no need to
use the mat between layers, as the bonding
qualities of the unidirectional rovings are
satisfactory due to the weaving structure.
The outside layer, however, should still be
some form of mat to make fairing the final
surface easier.
The keel section of an unballasted boat is
made in a similar manner as with a ballasted
sailboat. The area where the foam was initially
omitted isbuilt up with thicknesses of foam as
required to gain longitudinal stiffness and to
distribute point loadings onto both skins of the
hull.
 "one-off" construction methods

Longitudinal Battens

Stations or Frames

The two primary methods of fastening the

foam in place on the male mold. Note that in
both instances the fasteners go through the
longitudinal battens. The nails from the sur-
face side must not be over mold frames as Outer Fibreglass Skin
they cannot be pulled through the foam. AIREX Foam Core

The inside skin plus additional layers of

fibreglass produce a solid backbone of

Right and wrong ways to attach bulkheads to

PYC foam sandwich boats. The foam should
not be removed from the area where the
bulkhead joins to the hull or else a "hard spot"
will be formed which may lead to an unfair
hull or even a failure at this point. The correct
bulkhead connection utilizes a foam piece
with canted sides inside the hull bearing
directly to the laminate. The foam piece
provides extra bearing material plus the proper
canted surface to prevent air bubbles along
the bonding fiberglass.
The foam is applied over a male mold or
plug. " The keel section is increased in size by
the thickness of the foam where the area will
be solid fiberglass. When the outer laminate
has been applied, the hull is removed from the
mold and set into a receiving cradle. Then the
inner laminate can be applied. Additional
laminate can be built up along the keel as
required.

91
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
Thefinal resin coat can beafinishing resin
(ifthe surface seems to be very fair), or
another coating of laminating resin. In any
case, the laminate surface should bebuilt
with enough resin to thoroughly cover all
fiberglass material. Usually the surface will
lack a high degree of fairness, and it is here
that final fairing and finishing is required.
Probably the easiest method is to make a
mixtureof finishing resin and Microballoons
or Microspheres into a putty-like con-
sistency and apply this to the entire hull
surface as thinly as possible, but with
enough material to take care of low spots. If
the hull surface is unfair, this final resin filler
finish is done much like a plastering
ation in order to build up a smooth surface.
A linoleum adhesive spreader with a serrated
edge can be used to spread on the resin filler
and then allowed to cure. The surface can
then be sanded. Because of the serrations
caused by the spreader, less resin filler will
be removed and the sanding will be easier.
Also, any unevenness or low spots will be
readily visible and these can be coated with
additional resin filler until the serrations are
filled in and the surface is fair. In some
may be necessary to
it repeat this procedure
many times to get a top-quality surface.
Therefore, to eliminate as much of this final
fairing as possible, great care should be
taken throughout the lay up process to
assure that the surface is fair, even and
smooth. Sanding of the resin filler is far
easier than if only resin were used, and can
be used even over a fair surface as long as the
final surface is painted. Throughout the lay
up sequence, the use of pigmented resin is
not recommended as it is easier to see
defects, air bubbles, and to control thick-
ness of the laminate when the resin is clear.
After final fairing, the hull surface can be
painted.
A completed foam sandwich hull
mold without the inside laminate applied is
"floppy" and weak. For this reason great care
should be given to the hull in the righting
procedure. A series of forms can be made to
92
. . .
make a cradle in which the righted boat can
be positioned for completion. One way to
make these forms is to cut strips of carpet
up and lay them over a strip of cellophane or
plastic sheet directly onto the hull at several
areas. These carpet strips are then saturated
with resin and laminations of fiberglass
material to duplicate the hull contour at that
point. The strips will form into rigid shapes
which can be used to build a cradle that will
duplicate the exact shape of the hull so it will
be evenly supported once righted. The cured
carpet forms can be removed from the hull
easily because of the cellophane or plastic
sheet serving as a parting agent. The cradle
oper- MUST distribute the weight of the hull as
evenly as possible so that no concentrated
stress points will occur which could deform
the hull shape. The hull can be removed
from the form initially or the hull together
with the form, can be righted, depending on
the size of the boat, the way the form has
been built, and the type of equipment
available for the righting operation. The
righted hull should be checked to see that it
is resting on the form so as not to affect the
cases shape of the boat.
When this is done, the balance of the lay
up can proceed on the inside. In areas where
there will not be any foam (such as along the
keel), the edges of the adjoining foam must
be radiused so the laminate can form over
the area without air bubbles forming. If the
design calls for it, these areas can later be
filled with foam fillers and then covered over
with additional laminate. In no case should
foam be removed for attaching bulkheads,
longitudinal stringers, motor stringers, or
similar members. In so doing, a "hard spot"
will befo'fmed by concentrating stresses and
could result in an unfair hull, or even a hull
failure in use. However, in areas of through-
hull fittings, bolts, chainplates, etc., the
on the foam must be removed and either filled with
solid blocking, or compression fittings, or
the inner and outer laminations must join
together to form solid laminate.
The application of the inner laminate is
 "one-off" construction methods
virtually the same as the outer laminate; However, since the material is unidirec-
however, there is no need to use mat as the tional in nature, the common manner is to
final layer or get a high quality finish. Once apply them longitudinally which does in-
this final innerlaminate has cured, the hull crease longitudinal strength somewhat, de-
will beextremely rigid. Bulkheads and pending on the composition of the rest of
various other structural and non-structural the structure. Of course for continuity of
components are easily attached to the boat strength, the planks should run in one
forming the completed vessel. Because continuous length without joints between
boatbuilding in foam requires special design them.
consideration, it is not recommended that Building with C-FLEX gives all the advan-
the amateur boatbuilder attempt to convert tages of a fiberglass boat, plus the unidirec-
plans of a boat designed in some other tional properties of the material can often be
material to foam without at least profes- used to good strength advantage, particu-
sional help. larly when oriented in a fore and aft
direction in sailboat hulls. The C-FLEX, when
used in this manner, increases the longitud-
inal stiffness or rigidity of the sailboat hull
C-FLEX FIBERGLASS PLANKING
thereby allowing greater headstay tension
C-FLEX fiberglass planking is made by and hence better setting of the headsails
Seemann Plastics, of New Orleans. The without distorting the hull. The boat built
material is composed of parallel rods of with C-FLEX will probably be cheaper to
fiberglass reinforced polyester resin alter- build than a boat built using the foam
nating with bundles of continuous fiberglass sandwich method because the inner fiber-
rovings, with the whole held together by two glass laminate is not required and the
layers of lightweight open-weave fiberglass formwork not so elaborate. A much more
is

cloth. The C-FLEX comes in standard contin-
uous lengths of 100' or 250', both about 12"
in width, and are rolled into a coil about 4' in
diameter for shipping. Two
weights of the
material are available at the present time;
one lightweight grade (CF-39) for smaller
boats, and a standard grade (CF-65) for most
applications.
Basically, the C-FLEX fiberglass planking
isused in "one-off" construction to form the
"shape" of the boat by applying it over a
male mold or form much like that used for
sandwich foam construction, and then the
fiberglass laminate is applied over this to
form the hull. Hence, the builder can build
an all-fiberglass hull without going through
the elaborate mold making process required
for factory production. The C-FLEX is more
or less self-supporting and will conform
easily to compound curves without any
deforming or stretching. The "planks" (as
they are called) are laid over the form,
successively butting to one another They
can be applied in virtually any direction.
elaborate formwork is required with the
foam sandwich method, and none of this
formwork remains in the finished hull. With
C-FLEX, the bulkheads and stringers of the
finished boat can actually be used for the
formwork thereby eliminating the extra cost
of a separate form which will not be used
after the hull is completed. Also, the cradle
used to support the foam sandwich hull
while the inner laminate is applied is not
required with the C-FLEX hull. C-FLEX does
not require any heating to shape to assume
compound curves. Most of the fiberglass
work is done only on the outside of the hull,
and many through-hull fittings and bulk-
head connections are easier to do as op-
posed to foam sandwich methods. On the
other hand, however, the foam sandwich
hull does offer superior sound and thermal
insulation, and better local impact resis-
tance which can be important consider-
ations in selecting one material over
another, depending on the use of the boat
and where it will be used.

93
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

BUILDING WITH C-FLEX

There are several variations which can be enough of them, or they can be stapled in

used to build in C-FLEX, but the basic theme
is the same. Basically, a male mold form is
built using temporary frames and/or bulk-
heads (which may remain in the boat in
some cases) spaced about 18" apart. If the
lighterC-FLEX is used, thisspacingshould be
reduced to about 14" apart. The C-FLEX
planking is applied over this formwork,
usually longitudinaly. The C-FLEX can be
held in place with ice picks, if you can get
place with heavy-duty staples.
On most boats, the planks can be started
along the sheer line working toward the keel.
Or with chine boats, the planks could be
started either along the chine, sheer, or keel.
The sequence matters little; in fact some
builders have even applied the strips trans-
versely as well as diagonally. The material
can be cut with an ordinary hand power saw
using an abrasive cut-off disc. Because the

TEST PANEL- USING "C-FLEX"

A coat of wax-free resin is applied to the
outer surface of the "C-FLEX" for bonding to
the initial layer of fiberglass material (a). It is
not necessary to fully saturate the "C-FLEX" at
this time, as the back surface can be coated
with resin later. The initial layer of fiberglass
material applied on the "C-FLEX" is usually
mat. A serrated roller especially intended for
mat is being used to smooth and saturate the
mat (6). This type of roller prevents pulling the
mat apart. The next layer of fiberglass material
in a laminate using "C-FLEX" is usually woven
roving (c). The mat roller is being used,
although a squeegee would also be used. Even
with only one layer of mat and one layer of
woven roving, the test panel became quite
rigidupon curing. The original "C-FLEX" panel
weighed .5 lbs. per square foot. With the 2
ounce mat and 24 ounce woven roving ap-
plied, the weight increased to 1.5 lbs. per
square foot.

94

material develops a slight "set" when rolled,
it is best to apply the side facing inside to the
roll DOWN on the form. Normally it is not
necessary to bevel any of the frame mem-
bers. The builder should check along the
hull to assure that it is fair and eliminate any
protruding "nubs" or unfair spots which can
lead to a lot of fairing work later.
When theC-FLEX has all been applied, the
outer surface is coated with polyester wax-
free resin. It is NOT necessary nor desirable
to completely saturate the C-FLEX at this
time as it will tend to stick to the form, plus it
can be done later after the hull has been
righted. (This does not mean, however, that
the C-FLEX does not need total saturation.
The builder must see to it that all areas are
coated, even behind frames and bulkheads).
The makers of C-FLEX state that a non-thixo-
tropic resin which will cure slowly with little
shrinkage should be used in the laminating
procedure. The reason is that a "hot" resin
which is quick curing will shrink too much,
thereby pulling the material down some-
what between frames where there are tight
convex curves. If this occurs, it will not
affect the strength of the hull, but will make
fairing more difficult. Rollers, brushes
squeegees can be used to apply the resin,
although heavy nap paint rollers seem to be
the simplest and quickest method. Amateurs
seem to use TOO MUCH resin, and with
C-FLEX, this should be avoided. Once the
material is well saturated and wet through
completely, all excess resin should be
squeegeed off as excess resin will add
weight, cause a brittle laminate, and exces-
sive shrinking.
With the C-FLEX applied and saturated
with resin, the lay up can proceed. The hull
should be sanded lightly to knock off any
high spots and resin build-ups. As with foam
sandwich construction, the common lamin-
ate over the C-FLEX consists of alternating
layers of mat and woven roving, with the
mat being used as the initial layer against the
C-FLEX as well as the final or finish layer. A
grooved metal roller works best with the mat
"one-off" construction methods
as it the valleys well. The C-FLEX will
fills in
tend to between planks but this is of no
flex
consequence as the cured laminate will form
a strong bond. Woven roving is best applied
at right angles over the C-FLEX, or at least
not parallel with it. In all cases, joints in the
fiberglass material should be butted; not
lapped, and alternating butt joints between
laminations should be staggered.
Care should be taken in the lay up to
prevent lumps, hills, and valleys from
forming. In other words, work with the
thought that the hull should be kept as fair as
possible throughout the lay up procedure.
One technique is to use a large steel putty
knife as a squeegee over the entire hull after
each layer of woven roving is applied to help
smooth out high spots and excessive resin in
the lay up. The final layer of fiberglass
material should be a lightweight surfacing
mat. The final finish can be applied as noted
for the foam sandwich method, and then the
hull The hull will be somewhat
righted.
flexible,and care should be exercised in the
righting procedure to maintain the shape of
the hull. A cradle should be built to support
the completed hull until all the structural
and components have been installed although
this cradle need not be as elaborate as that
used for foam sandwich methods.
Depending on the method used to build
the hull, frames or bulkheads may already be
a part of the hull, or will have to be added
once the hull is righted. In any case, the
interior of the hull is saturated with resin to
completely wet out the C-FLEX. Then a layer
of mat should be applied to complete the
interior using a finish resin. This mat will
give a more finished appearance to the
inside of the hull as well as provide a
paintable surface and consequently easier
maintenance. If longitudinals and bulk-
heads were a part of the form and are to
remain in the hull, these must be fiber-
glassed in place. The common method is to
use strips of mat and roving saturated with
resin and applied before any finish resin is
used.
95
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
"ONE-OFF" MALE MOLD CONSTRUCTION
USING "C-FLEX" FIBERGLASS PLANKING
This series of photographs show the pro-
cedures of building a "one-off" boat using
"C-FLEX" fiberglass planking. The boat being
built is a fairly large sailboat, but the prin-
ciples apply to just about any other type of
design. The mold frames or transverse mem-
bers are spaced no more than about 18" apart
and these determine the basic hull shape. The
"C-FLEX" fiberglass planks come in long rolls
which are laid in place over the mold frames
longitudinally in continuous lengths. Ice picks
are being used to hold the fiberglass planks in
place, although staples could also be used.
The fiberglass planks are coated with resin
once in position, thereby making them more
rigid after the resin cures. The laminate is then
applied, usually consisting of an initial layer of
mat and alternating plies of woven roving and
mat. The workers are using a large squeegee to
wet out the lay up and remove excess resin
from the laminate. A flexible resin is recom-
mended in order to prevent undue shrinking
which will cause unfairness in the completed
laminate. When the outer laminate is com-
pleted, the hull can be righted. In this case,
the form and the hull are being righted to-
gether in order to prevent distorting the hull.
The final photograph shows the hull interior
with the mold frames removed and much of
the interior structure installed. Longitudinal
stiffeners are used to reinforce the hull. These
are "U"-shaped channels made from fiberglass
material and resin. The bulkheads made from
(
)(>
. . .
plywood, together with the longitudinal stif-
feners, are bonded in place using mat and/or
woven roving strips. A layer of mat can be
used on the inner surface, together with resin,
to complete the interior. The completed hull is
basically a single thickness of reinforced
fiberglass.
The method shown in the photographs is
only one way in which the "C-FLEX" can be
used to build a boat. There are other variations
in both the mold construction as well as the
manner in which the "C-FLEX" is used. For
example, the mold can be framed with bulk-
heads spaced apart which will remain
fairly far
a part boat. The longitudinal "U"-
of the
shaped channels of fiberglass can be notched
or laid across these bulkheads, and then the
"C-FLEX" laid across these longitudinals either
diagonally or transversely. Then the laminate
can be built up in the usual manner. It makes
little difference in most cases which way the
fiberglass planks are oriented. With this meth-
od, there are no mold frames required except
for the bulkheads.
Another method is to build a wood frame-
work just as if a wood boat were being built,
except that the "C-FLEX" is used to provide the
planking. The laminate is laid up in the usual
manner and the completed boat righted. The
framework inside remains in the boat thereby
making it easy to install the interior and saves
wasting the material used in the formwork as
in the first method.
"one-off" construction methods

"J
 CHAPTER 10 . . .

. . . Vectra polypropylene fiber fabric

Vectra is name for polypropylene

a trade although there may be considerable stocks
olefin fiber made by the Vectra Company in various parts of the country.
which is woven into fabrics by other com- Another factor which limits the use of
panies. The fabric is made in much the same Vectra fabric is the somewhat higher cost
way as fiberglass cloth, and indeed it looks over fiberglass cloth fabrics offering com-
just like fiberglass cloth to the novice. parable qualities. As with the case of Dynel,
Vectra fabrics can be used in most cases fiberglass boat manufacturers have no real
where would be used, such
fiberglass cloth need for the fabric, as cheaper fiberglass
as sheathing of hulls and decks. Vectra reinforcements such as mat and woven
fabrics have some purported advantages roving can be utilized more effectively in the
over fiberglass cloth as well as Dynel which female mold process used in fiberglass
is described in the next chapter. boatbuilding. Therefore, the primary use of
The material is much weight than
ligher in Vectra fabrics is limited to the covering of
fiberglass, and even than Dynel.
lighter existing and new boats mainly of wood
Vectra fabric weighing approximately 4 construction, although its use is broader
ounces per square yard can be substituted than that of Dynel for reasons which will
for fiberglass cloth fabric weighing 10 follow.
ounces per square yard using a similar Vectra fabric can be used in sandwich
amount of resin. Abrasion resistance, flexi- boatbuilding as a composite one-off mater-
bility, and adhesion are supposedly better ial whereas Dynel is not recommended for
than fiberglass cloth fabric, and equal to or this purpose. The boat illustrated in this
better than Dynel in these respects. The chapter was built using a soft pine core of
material is non-irritating and wets out easily. thin strips edge nailed in place over a
Vectra fabric will stretch somewhat, is inert temporary form. Over this core, two layers
inwater, and will not lose its strength when of Vectra fabric and polyester resin were
wet. applied to both sides. The resulting hull is
During the late Ws
the Vectra Company, extremely strong and rigid with no frames
along with its various distributors and mills, required. The completed hull is not as
promoted the material heavily. Much was lightweight as if foam had been used for the
written about polypropylene fabrics both by core, but is not excessively heavy, and the
the boating press as well as by naval core material is much cheaper. This boat has
architects and builders. However, polyprop- been proven in use under all conditions and

ylene is a synthetic plastic by-product of the has not suffered any ill effects.
gasoline-making process, and this has lim- However, the use of Vectra is not prob-
ited the amount as well as increased the cost lem-free. This is confirmed not only as a

of the basic material from which the fibers result of the above prototype experience,
are made due to the energy problems of the but also by reports from many boating
70's. In fact, one of the major producers of experts and naval architects who have
the fabric has discontinued the product, utilized the material in even larger craft

98
 Vectra polypropylene fiber fabric

using similar methods. One of the main resin. For this reason,Vectra is best applied
problems with Vectra is also one of its in multiple layers with
the butt joints
attributes. The light weight of the fabric staggered. However, as with fiberglass
(which allows the weight of the boat to be cloth, peel strength is not good using more
kept low, together with adding inherent than two layers of the fabric unless epoxy
buoyancy) causes it to "float" if too much resin is used.
resin is applied. While it would seem easy Either polyester or epoxy resins may be
enough to limit the resin to an amount that used with Vectra; however, for some con-
would be sufficient bond the fabric and
to struction materials, especially where expan-
yet not allow it to raise above the surface, sion and contraction, or adhesion may be a
this can be a problem when working on problem, many who work with the material
relatively large areas AND within the time prefer the more flexible epoxy resins. To
limits imposed by the catalyzed resin AND minimize the tendency for the material to
still attempting to wet out the fabric prop- "float," the material should be appled "dry"
erly so that no bubbles or wrinkles will form. to the surface, stapled in position, cut to
The subject of wrinkles brings up another rough and then covered with a min-
size,

problem with Vectra. Unlike fiberglass imum amount of resin. Some who have
cloth, the Vectra fabric will hold a crease or worked with the material think that the resin
wrinkle, thereby making it difficult to hold should have somewhat more catalyst added
the fabric onto the surface in the vicinity of than normally required in order for the resin
the wrinkle. For this reason, the fabric to cure more rapidly so as to keep the
should be purchased form and not
in roll material down on the surface.
folded. It is possible to lay cellophane or With sandwich core construction where
other parting film against the surface and the material is used on the inside as well as
hold down a wrinkle by hand or with weights the outside of the hull, the tendency for the
until the resin sets, but this can be a material to "float" is especially strong in the
nuisance or even impractical on a large bottom of the boat where the resin will tend
surface with many wrinkles. to accumulate. For this reason, a fast cure is
Finishing the Vectra fabric also presents desirable together with a highly thixotropic
problems. When feathering a lap joint, the resin and a lot of work on the part of the
material tends to "fuzz" when sanded, builder to insure that the resin does not run
unlike fiberglass cloth which will blend into down into low areas causing the fabric to
the surface. The same holds true if you "float" the resin. This will also prevent
in

inadvertently sand through the resin and resin rich and resin starved areas in the
into the fabric. With fiberglass, the area laminate.
need be only recoated with more resin and a Vectra fabric is an entirely suitable mater-
small patch fitted in place. The Vectra ial when considered in light of its strengths

material does notwork this way, and indeed, and weaknesses. Durability seems to be
the recommended procedure is NOT to lap good and many may be attracted by its
any joints, but rather to butt them. On a non-allergenic, non-irritating qualities.

single layer of fabric, this couldallow a However, the material may be hard to find
slight along the surface being covered,
slit and will probably be more costly than
which may not be reinforced or otherwise fiberglass cloth.
protected with the reinforcing fabric and

99
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
"ONE-OFF" SANDWICH CONSTRUCTION
USING A WOOD STRIP CORE
This series of photographs shows the con-
struction of a "one-off" boat using sandwich
construction with a wood strip core over a
male mold. While the boat being built is a
small day sailer, there have been many larger
boats built, such as power cruisers, using the
same principles.
The mold frames or transverse members are
shaped to the basic hull shape LESS the
thickness of the wood strips (a). The wood
strips are made from any ordinary lightweight
wood, such as inexpensive shelving pine.
There is no need for high quality wood here,
and the strips need not be in continuous
lengths. The wood strips are edge nailed {not
necessarily glued) to each adjoining wood
strip, as well as being fastened to the transom
and the stem members {which will remain in
the boat). The wood strips are NOT perm-
anently nailed to the mold frames as these
NOT stay in the boat.
The outer sheer member is sprung around
the hull and bonded to the wood strips as well
as at each end in order to shape the final hull
contours. The outer laminate can be applied
after the hull is completed. In this case, two
layers of Vectra polypropylene cloth and poly-
ester laminating resin were used over the
outside, however, fiberglass cloth could be
used as well. If the Vectra fabric is used, the
joints should be butted and staggered with
100
respect to butt joints in the other lamination.
If fiberglass cloth is used, the joints can be
overlapped. When the outer laminate is ap-
plied and the hull finished, it can be removed
from the mold and righted for the balance of
construction. The interior of the boat is co-
vered with two more layers of cloth and resin
and allowed to cure. The resulting boat is void
of frames and is referred to as a "monocoque"
structure. A "monocoque" structure gains its
strength from the composite sandwich "skin"
of the hull itself. An inner longitudinal mem-
ber on each side makes the hull rigid along the
sheer area and provides backing material for
the various fittings.
The lightness of the core material is impor-
tant in such a design. Also, the laminate must
only be as heavy as required to gain sufficient
strength. If not, the completed hull will be
do heavier than it should be, and could probably
be built lighter by using lighter materials, such
as plywood. From a design standpoint, how-
ever, the wood strip core does allow the
designer freedom of hull shape not possible in
sheet materials such as plywood. The resulting
boat is easy to maintain as well as being
durable and strong. While
this small boat
utilized cloth for reinforcement, larger
the
boats might use mat and/or woven roving
laminates as well as cloth, in order to gain
sufficient hull strength.
Vectra polypropylene fiber fabric

.
 CHAPTER 11 . . .
. .
Dynel is a trade name for modacrylic fiber
made by Union Carbide Corporation which
is woven into fabrics that can be used very
much the same as fiberglass cloth. The
fabric is woven by other firms and the parent
firm is quick to point out that Dynel is not a
replacement for fiberglass. The main reason
for using Dynel as an overlay is the extreme
toughness of the material, giving much
higher abrasion resistance than fiberglass
cloth. This can be illustrated by examining
some characteristics of both Dynel and
fiberglass.
Dynel fiber has a breaking tensile strength
of 40,000 to 50,000 pounds per square inch
with an elongation of about 35%. Fiber-
glass, on the other hand, has a breaking
tensile strength of 300,000 pounds per
square inch but an elongation of only 3 to
4%. Where the fiberglass fabric gives high
ultimate the Dynel fabric will
strength,
stretch and elongate considerably more
before failing. Hence, the ability of Dynel to
withstand scrapes and abrasion commonly
imparted to a boat hull, deck covering, or
cabin top.
Dynel fabric is relatively lightweight
(about half the weight of fiberglass cloth),
highly resistant to chemicals, acids,
alkalies (which not the case with fiberglass
is
fabrics until they are thoroughly saturated
and covered with resin), and non-allergenic
in handlingand sanding. The material is said
to be easier to apply than fiberglass. It wets
out easily and rapidly, leaving no air
bubbles, and conforms to shapes and con-
tours easier than fiberglass fabrics. This
latter quality supposedly makes the sheath-
ingof lapstrakeor"clinker"hullsmuch more
102
. Dynel modacrylic fiber fabric
practical, as the material does not pull away
from inside and outside corners and form air
bubbles as much as does fiberglass due to
the ability to take shapes better. The
material has excellent adhesion when used
with either polyester or epoxy resins; how-
ever, Union Carbide emphasizes that epoxy
resins, which have more flexibility than do
polyester resins, should be used in order to
take advantage of the high elongation
properties of the Dynel. One resin system
that is recommended by Union Carbide
consists of 60% Bakelite Epoxy ERL-2795
and 40% Versamid 125. The company also
recommends that a test or sample panel
overlay be prepared in order for the novice
to better learn how to handle the materials,
and also to subject the finished panel to any
test conditions that the final product will be
required to endure in order to prove the resin
system used.
With the above stated advantages of the
Dynel fabric, one might think that the
material would be a suitable alternative to
fiberglass fabric, but Dynel has never caught
on to any degree in boat covering work. This
could be in part a result of some of the
following points which were gleaned from
and our survey made before writing this book.
Some of the comments made were that
Dynel was poorly promoted, not readily
available, and the fact that the material cost
was greater than fiberglass fabrics. Of
course, fiberglass boat manufacturers had
no real need for the Dynel fabric (just as with
Vectra) as they could use cheaper fiberglass
reinforcements by virtue of the female mold
boatbuilding process which precludes the
need for fabrics such as Dynel This left only
.
 Dynel modacrylic
a limited market for Dynel (albeit an
important one!) primarily for use as an
overlay material on existing boats.
During the late '60's, Dynel developed a
poor but undeserved reputation when appli-
cations of the material were made over old
planked hulls using rigid polyester resins
which were about the only type commonly
available at the time. The expansion and
contraction of the planking soon caused the
material to crack and split due to the lack of
flexibility in the resin. Even when the more
flexible polyester resins were used later, the
material still tended to crack and split along
joints when used on hulls subject to high
stresses. Some users have attributed the
failure of the material to the actual weave
pattern of the cloth and not to any inherent
weakness of the fibers. In any case, the
material became known as "notch sensitive"
(to crack or split easily along joints) and now
Union Carbide is careful to give rather
explicit instructions so that the best features
of the material can be realized.
WHERE TO USE DYNEL
Dynel fabric overlay can be used just
about anywhere fiberglass cloth would be
used, and perhaps is better for some appli-
cations as long as the proper resin system is
used. For example, the greater drapeability
of Dynel makes its use possible for lapstrake
or "clinker" type hulls although the infor-
mation from Union Carbide still states that
"some deft handling" (!) of the material is
required. On conventionally planked hulls,
Dynel can also be used but the resin should
be the highest elongation epoxy type avail-
able, and all joints should have at least two
layers of the material. This can be accom-
plished by using the two layers throughout,
or a narrow tape can be used over the joints,
and fabric used in one layer over the tape
and balance of the area.
Probably the best success with Dynel has
been over plywood or other dimensionally
stable surfaces where expansion and con-
fiber fabric
traction, especially at joints is minimal. The
material can even be used over a fiber-
glassed surface in order to increase the
toughness of the skin and give high abrasion
resistance where this quality would be
important, such as for boats in commercial
service. Dynel makes an excellent deck
covering material due to this quality and is
highly skid-resistant as long as the surface is
not over-saturated with resin.
HOW TO USE DYNEL
Surfaces to be covered with Dynel are
prepared as if they were to be covered with
fiberglass cloth. Either the wet method or
the dry method of application can be used,
although Union Carbide says "best results"
come when a uniform thin coat of resin is
applied first to the surface. The fabric is
applied longitudinally in most cases, al-
though there is no reason why it could not be
applied in any other direction.
Using the dry method over boat hulls, the
material is laid in position and stapled or
tacked along the edges as close as an inch or
two in contoured areas, then stretched
somewhat to prevent wrinkles. The over-
hanging edges are then trimmed off. Where
overlaps occur, they should be at least 2"
and preferably 4", and will require feather-
ing along the edges just as with fiberglass
materials. While the Dynel will conform to
corners much better than fiberglass cloth, it
is best to provide some and
radius to edges
inside corners. The material can then be
wetted out in the normal manner with
staples and tacks removed before the resin
sets up.
With the wet method, the surface is
coated with a thin layer of resin using a roller
or squeegee to make it uniform. The mater-
ial, which should have been previously
fitted and rolled onto a tube or dowel, is
then rolled into place and smoothed out.
When the fabric is wrinkle-free and tight to
the surface, a top coat of resin is applied to
103
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS . .

thoroughly wet out the fabric. With either placefirst and then wet it out. One of the

the wet or dry method, excess resin should problems with Dynel is that its light weight
be worked out as a resin-rich laminate tends can make the material "float" if too much
to be rigid and subject to cracking. Then let resin is applied, just as with "Vectra." For
the resin cure per the manufacturer's in- this reason, do not use too much resin; only
structions. Do NOT accelerate the resin enough to bond and saturate the cloth Use a .

curing cycle as shrinking and cracking may stiffbrush to push the saturated fabric into
occur. strakes and then make a final pass with a
If two layers of fabric are required, repeat small roller to insure a tight bond and
the lay-up process, but sand out sags and thorough resin saturation. Be sure to remove
rough spots between coats. It seems to me excess resin, and finish as noted above.
that if two layers of fabric are used, that On conventionally planked hulls, do not
overlaps should not be made, and butt joints rely on the fabric to strengthen a weak hull.
used instead, staggering the butt joints Be sure the boat is structurally sound first. As
between layers so they do not occur at the noted previously, two layers of fabric are
same point; but the on Dynel is
literature recommended, but otherwise, the appli-
somewhat vague in They do
this area. cation is the same. Non-skid decking is easy
caution, however, that overlapped areas can to do, and for this application, the material
cause a build-up of resin which tends to is butted at joints, NOT lapped. Apply the
make the area more rigid and subject to fabric to the surface and then apply a
cracking in the area of the lap. saturation coat of resin to the fabric. Scrape
To finish the job, cut away remaining off all excess resin so that the fabric is
untrimmed edges, and sand and feather all thoroughly saturated, BUT not totally filled
laps and edges. Fine sand all surfaces and covered with the resin. In other words,
smooth as required, but be careful not to the weave of the fabric imparts the non-skid
sand too deeply when sanding the first coat qualities. No fill or finish coat of resin is

or it will damage the weave of the fabric. A required.

second coat of resin seals any exposed In using Dynel per the manufacturer's
fibers, and a third coat gives a hard, smooth instructions, it appears to be a viable
surface, over which any suitable paint can covering material, especially when its qual-
be used, although the epoxy type or poly- ities of high abrasion resistance are desired.

urethane type coatings seem to give the best It is, however, not readily available and
results. probably more expensive than comparable
For lapstrake hulls, the material is fitted fiberglass cloth. The fact that epoxy resins
first and stapled or tacked in position, or are recommended may be a drawback due to
fitted and then removed, so that either the the higher cost of epoxy resins and greater
wet or dry method can be used. Here again, care required in using them.
it seems easiest to me to have the material in

104
CHAPTER 12 . . .

. . . Arabol glue & fabric sheathing

Arabol is probably one of the most or have used products on which it has been
obscure materials in the boating field and applied.
deserves much more exposure and promo-
tion than it has received. Arabol is a lagging
WHERE IS ARABOL USED?
adhesive material made by the Borden
Chemical Company used for insulating Basically, Arabol isused in combination
steam piping. Basically, the material is with some fabric to provide an overlay
almost identical to ordinary white polyvinyl composite for surface protection. The sur-
glue, but modified somewhat to give some face is coated with the Arabol glue, the
additional physical properties, primarily fabric is then placed over the wet glue
better rot and mildew resistance. Borden surface, allowed to dry, and then successive
refers to the material as a "synthetic plasti- coats of glue are used over this until the
cized resin" and designates the product with desired surface is obtained. The glue is water
a number (#60-89-05). They sell the material soluble in the can, butdries to a hard, highly
and also supply it to other firms who market water-resistant coating. Just about any fab-
the product under various trade names ric canbe used with Arabol, including
which vary with locality. One firm on the fiberglass cloth and woven rovings, Vectra,
west coast markets the product under the Dynel, nylon, muslin, canvas, and burlap.
trade name of Thorpe "Easy Deck." Where the material used is prone to shrink-
How did Arabol find its way to the boating age, joints should be overlapped. However,
field? This a mystery to me, but first
is still I other materials which don't shrink can be
heard of the material in the early '60's where butt-joined.
it was being used by boat repair and Places where Arabol together with one of
maintenance people. have yet to see any
I the above fabrics can be used are as follows:
promotional material or advertising on the Boat decks, cockpit soles, cabin tops and
product, and everyone whom talk with I sides,bulkhead coverings, transom steps,
about Arabol heard about it from someone gangways, floats, piers, diving boards,
else! Indeed, while doing research for this swimming pool borders, or any other area
book, tried several times to get information
I where great wear resistance and durability
and technical data from both the local plus water resistance is important. have I

Borden division as well as their national even heard of the material used by itself with
office and got virtually nowhere. For some ordinary water-based paints as a paint
reason can't understand, nobody wants to
I product giving excellent water and wear
promote the material, at least for marine resistance to buildings of stucco covering
use. For these reasons, what follows about located near the waterfront where weather
Arabol is based on limited experience with exposure and extreme conditions caused
the material together with what has been failures with other paint systems!
learned from others who have worked with it While the Arabol surface is not shiny,

105
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

glossy, otherwise "yachtlike," it does

or good adhesion. have my doubts about
I

offer a smooth, durable, easy-to-maintain, applying the glue to metal or fiberglass

and weathertight seal coating to all exposed surfaces, as don't think it will bond well.
I

surfaces capable of accepting the bond of The glue can be applied over previously
the glue. While the Arabol glue is classed as painted surfaces or bare wood as long as all
"water resistant," it is not totally waterproof grease and oil have been removed, along
and would probably not make a suitable hull with loose or peeling paint. It can also be
covering or replacement for other materials applied directly over previously applied
discussed in this book (although have never I canvas covered areas without removing the
heard of anyone using it for this purpose so I old material if it has a good bond, although it
cannot testify that it CAN'T be done! There ) . is a good idea to rough sand any question-

is no need to paint the Arabol surface able surface first.

although it can be done. The glue can be Pre-cut the material to be used to fit the
tinted with an ordinary water-base paint desired area. you think shrinkage will
If

pigment and eliminate the need for an occur, allow 2" on all sides, plus 2" at
undercoat. Just about any type of paint overlaps. As noted above, you can butt join
seems to work on the surface, even water- the material if it will not shrink; however,
based types. you can also overlap by 1" if desired, which
On top of all these features, Arabol is is sometimes done on cabin tops just as it

relativelycheap in comparison with poly- was once done in the past when covering
ester and epoxy resins, plus the fabric used them with canvas and glue. Some prefer this
can be inexpensive as well. The material joint on cabin tops, but it does not seem
requires no special conditions for using, is necessary at least from the standpoint of
hazard-free, and virtually foolproof. The keeping out water, as the glue will do this if
only problem seems to be locating the stuff! the butt joint is a tight fit. Tacking of the
fabric in position is not required in any case,
although it can be done temporarily if
HOW TO USE ARABOL
working on a large area and you are having
When using one of the previously noted difficulty in handling the material.
materials with Arabol, it should be deter- An area of about 10 to 15 square feet is
mined if it will shrink in the process. Any about all that can be done at a time as the
cotton material will probably shrink, but Arabol tends to skim over (depending on the
many of the canvas products on the market temperature where you are working). Don't
are either pre-shrunk or are synthetic-based try to apply the glue at temperatures near
products which don't shrink. We have used freezing as it will not dry properly. Temper-
burlap (made from jute or hemp) with no atures above 55 to 60° are preferable Spread .

shrinkage problem. Fiberglass, nylon, Vec-
tra,and Dynel do not shrink either, so when
using non-shrinking materials, pieces can be
butt joined together. But for materials
DO shrink, another technique
make lap joints, which will
later.
The first step is to prepare the surface,
which in our experience has always been
wood, although have heard of the material
I
being used on concrete and stucco with
the Arabol onto the surface right from the
can with a brush using a heavy coating
without thinning. For thin fabric materials,
which less can be used, while heavier materials
is called for to might take more. You'll have to judge by
be discussed actually trying it out, but do follow the
instructions on the can.
Lay the material over the glue-coated
surface and spread out creases and wrinkles
using your hands. Total saturation of the
fabric is NOT necessary as this first coat is to

106
 .

Arabol glue & fabric sheathing

bond the fabric to the surface. If you wish,
you can use a squeegee to spread out the
fabric, pressing hard to work the glue around
and into the fabric. As you do each section,
continue working until all the area is
covered with the fabric and the initial layer
of glue. There is no reason to stop. After
application, let the area dry one day or at
least overnight. Clean up with ordinary
water as long as the glue has not set up hard
corrected by just putting on another coat.
For a non-skid deck, burlap is ideal, or you
can sprinkle a non-skid compound or plain
sand onto the next to the last coat. Let the
glue dry, brush off the excess, and then
apply the final coat. Paint pigment can be
added to the glue, but painting is not
required unless desired. While the material
goes on white, it dries to a very pleasing
off-white color that very even and suitable
is

If the material being used will shrink, a for boat work. If painting is not desired but a
different technique is called for to get tight color is, it is recommended that the pigment
fitting butt joints. Apply one panel of fabric be added to ALL coats.
at a time letting it set up fairly hard before How much Arabol will you need? Its

going onto the next one, thereby giving the
material time to shrink. Then fit the next
panel allowing it to overlap the initial panel
by 2". Place a strip of wax paper on the edge
of the joint of the initial panel and then
apply glue on the surface where the next
panel will go. Place the panel of fabric over
the fresh glue letting it overlap onto the wax
paper. Then the material will shrink and you
can cut down the joint with a utility knife
impossible to determine as so many dif-
ferent fabrics can be used, plus it all depends
on how many coats are used. We have found
that one gallon will cover ordinary burlap
using four coats at the rate of about 35 to 40
square feet. Naturally, thinner and finer-
weaved fabric will take less, while coarser
ones will take more. For a previously applied
Arabol surface that needs restoring, all that
is required is to clean the area and apply

just before the glue sets up. Push the fabric additional coats directly over the old sur-
down flush with the surface of the previously face, even if been painted. The
it has
applied portion and pull the scrap away company who makes Thorpe "Easy Deck"
along with the wax paper. If carefully cut, a recommends that old coatings of the glue be
tight, flush butt joint will result even though softened with a solvent (their product
the fabric might shrink. "SS37") slightly in order to assure a good
For the next coats of glue, thin the product bond.
with 25% FRESH WATER. You can apply as How does Arabol stand up in use? In our
many coats of Arabol as you wish, but no test panels we tried an informal peel test by
less than two coats (after the initial one) are grasping the edge of the coated and cured
recommended. Let the glue dry for at least burlap and pulling it away from the bare
four hours between coats. Each coat will dry plywod surface. Itwasdifficulttodo, but we
hard, but there may be some "nubs" or gritty managed to pull the glue-saturated fabric off
spots with some fabrics. These can be the plywood, leaving a lot of the wood as
knocked off with a light sanding using a well as glue in place. The layer that came off
fairlycoarse (say #80 grit) sandpaper. Ma- was just like a tough fabric-backed vinyl . We
chine sanding is not recommended as the know of applications of Arabol on boat
paper will rapidly gum up, be stubborn to transom steps which are in and out of the
sand, and you may run the risk of gouging water constantly and have remained sound
the material. With some fabrics such as for years. Then too, we've heard of docks,
burlap, tiny "air pits" may form when piers, and floats which have been coated

brushing on the glue and look like "thin" with Arabol under tremendous foot traffic,
areas. These are no problem and can be sand, grease, gasoline and water with no

107
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS . . .

failures, not to mention numerous cabin derivitive products. Plus, we found that the
side and deck applications. For mainten- material only adds about 3 ounces per
ance, all that's usually required is occasional square foot using burlap when finished,
re-coating. have yet to hear about a failure
I which is fairly light in consideration of the
or botched-up application with Arabol, or its durability the product offers.

TEST PANEL-APPLYING AN ARABOL

OVERLAY
Applying an ARABOL overlay is easy. The
firstcoat is brushed onto the surface (a). The
fabric is laid onto the wet surface, smoothed
out, and allowed to set overnight. The next
coat of ARABOL is applied directly over the
first coat (b). This coat as well as all successive
coats are thinned with approximately 25%
water or as specified by the manufacturer.
Note how the fresh coat appears much whiter
than the dry first coat. The surface can be
built up with any number of coats as required
to suit the fabric used. This test panel surface
was covered with burlap and provided an
interesting textured surface which was hard
and durable when completed (c).

108
CHAPTER 13 . . .

. . . Cascover sheathing process

WHAT IS CASCOVER?
Another product of the Borden Chemical glass plus some additional qualities. The size
Company, this time their division in England of boat which can be sheathed with Cas-
however, is Cascover. Cascover is a patented cover appears to be unlimited and the hull
nylon sheathing process for use on wood construction method can be any type as long
hulls; but it is not well known in the United as it is wood. A boat covered with Cascover
States although it has been in use for many is purportedly "sealed" against water as well
years England and adjoining European
in as attack from shipworms like teredo. Many
countries. Its use should be more wide- older hulls have been brought back to life by
spread, and indeed the Borden Company in the use of Cascover, even those suffering
England would appreciate this as they do from leaking planking and structural prob-
state that they will ship the materials lems. The nylon cloth (called "Cascoform")
anywhere in the world, and that the process used in the process is extremely abrasion-
has been used successfully throughout the resistant, even more so than Dynel or
world. Vectra, and much more so than fiberglass
While the process can be done by the cloth. The cloth readily forms around even
amateur builder, Borden does recommend the sharpest corners and compound curves.
that they provide at least some technical Because of the flexibility of the nylon fabric
assistance during the application (which the plus the resin (called "Cascophen") used,
builder must pay for), or they are prepared to there seems to be no problem with cracking
carry out the entire job on a subcontract and splitting of the sheathing as occurs with
basis (at least in England). The above factors other fabrics used with polyester resins. The
help provide the answer as to why the process is somewhat different from fiber-
product may not be too well known at least glass and resin applications in that a third
in the United States. The cost of the process, finalproduct (called "Cascote") is used to
at least on a subcontract basis, is somewhat complete the procedure.
expensive; but this could be tempered with
the fact that the process is approved for use
on boats by the Admiralty as well as
British
HOW IS CASCOVER APPLIED?
Lloyds Register of Shipping and other gov- The surface to be sheathed is prepared
ernment agencies. Also, the user could much the same as would be required for
weigh the higher cost against the increased fiberglassing. Then the fabric is applied and
longevity of the hull as well as the reduced tailored roughly to shape. Thin wood bat-
maintenance costs brought about by using tens are tacked and stapled over the cloth to
the process. hold it in position at close intervals. When
The Cascover process supposedly offers this "fitting" process is completed, the resin
all the advantages of covering with fiber- can be applied.

109
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS . . .

The Cascophen resin is actually a two-part required are lapped 2". The battens are
resorcinol glue which is fully weatherproof removed after the glue cures, and all staples
and formulated to make a firm bond be- or tacks pulled free.
tween the wood and the cloth. The catalyst The surface is now coated with two coats
used to cure the glue is a powder which is of Cascote vinyl resin . The
coat must be
first

mixed into the liquid glue. It gives a long
working time depending on the temper-
ature, which is fairly critical, and should be
no less than 60° in the work area. Naturally,
the higherthetemperature, thefaster will be
the cure.
allowed to dry completely before applying
the second coat. This final coating is similar
to many modern paint systems, but fully
impregnates the nylon material and provides
a waterproof skin. The Cascote is available
in several colors, although other external

To apply the resin, the cloth is
feet at a time and the glue applied to the
surface under the cloth. This may sound
strange if you are familiar with fiberglassing
(as hope you are at this point!). But the
I into the water.
reason for doing it this way is so air and
excess glue are squeegeed out from under
the cloth so as NOT to saturate (that's
the fabric with the glue. In other words, the
glue used to bond the tailored cloth in
is
position and not to form a composite
laminate as is done with fiberglass cloth and
resin. Battens are removed and replaced as
the work proceeds, and any wrinkled areas,
bubbles, or blisters are flattened down or
otherwise prevented from forming by use of
the battens. Any joints which may be
lifted a few coverings or paints can be applied after four
or five days. The completed boat is left to
cure for four or five days after the final resin
coat, in any case, before putting the boat
The critical part of the job seems to be the
temperature. Borden states that if the tem-
right!) perature cannot be held to at least 60°, then
the immediate work area must be heated
somehow, and preferably up to 70° for
proper curing of the resins used. There does
not seem to be any finish sanding required to
get the yachtlike appearance which sup-
posedly results. Cascover seems like an
interesting process which should have more
attention in this country.

110
 .

CHAPTER 14 . . .

. . . safety

When working with fiberglass materials Instead of writing a verbose chapter on

and resins, safety CANNOT be overstressed. safety which many might choose to ignore,
The three most important categories of I'll make a list of variousthings to do and not
safety when doing work with fiberglass to do so that the reader can quickly refer to
materials and resins are FIRE SAFETY, BOD- this section before he begins work, and to
CONTACT WITH TOXIC SUBSTANCES,
ILY make the references more handy to use.
AND INHALATION OF TOXIC ELEMENTS.

1. Do NOT smoke while working with 6. Wear eye-protective gear such as

fiberglassand resin, or any solvents. glasses, goggles, or a face mask. If any
Avoid all open flames in the working materials get into your eyes, flood with
area, especially pilot lights on ap- water and boric acid. Contact a physi-
pliances. cian in serious cases.

2 ALWAYS work in a well-ventilated area. 7. If epoxy resins or amine hardeners come

If necessary, set up some slow speed into contact with the skin, WASH
fans to insure a complete movement of IMMEDIATELY with soap and water or
air. 1% diluted household ammonia. In any
case, wash often when working with any
3. Avoid breathing of fumes from amine resin.
hardeners used with epoxy resins, co-
balt promotors, catalysts, and styrene, 8. Do NOT mix cobalt accelerator directly
as well as most solvents. with MEK peroxide catalyst as a violent
reaction and/or explosion will occur.
4. Wear a respirator or protective mask Also do not mix MEK peroxide catalyst
when sanding, spray painting, spraying with acetone.
resin, or when working with fillers such
as Saran Microspheres or phenolic Mi- 9. Do NOT try home remedies if you
croballoons. develop toxic symptoms or extreme
dermatitis. See a physician and explain
5. Wear protective barrier cream on hands what chemicals you have been working
or arms, or better yet, use disposable with.
plastic or rubber gloves and protective
clothing when working with resins.

111
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
10. ALWAYS read instructions carefully and 13. Keep a FIRST AID kit handy, and try not
follow them to the letter on any product towork alone where you may be remote
you may be using. from assistance if you need it.

11. Dispose of gelled resin properly by 14. DON'T LET ALL THESE SAFETY RE-
dispersing it well over a broad area, QUIREMENTS SCARE YOU OUT OF
preferably the ground. Concentrated . WORKING WITH FIBERGLASS MATER-
resin which has begun to cure can get IALS AND RESINS. THE EXPERIENCE
hot enough to ignite. Do NOT throw CAN BE REWARDING IF YOU ARE
into trash barrels until fully cured if you CAREFUL.
cannot dump the gelling resin.

12. Watch out for children, pets, and other

unknowledgeable people who may
enter into the work area where resins
and solvents are being used.

112
 . . . glossary

ACCELERATOR — Material conjunc-

used in pany, and used primarily as a lagging
tion with a catalyst to produce and hasten adhesive. The product can also be used
the internal heat reaction in the liquid with various fabrics for covering surfaces
resin for The accelerator used
cure. in much like fiberglass materials and resin.
most polyester resins for boat work is

cobalt napthanate, usually referred to as BINDER — A bonding agent used to adhere

"cobalt." the various fibers together in the man-
ufacturing of fiberglass materials, espe-
ACETONE — A highly flammable and toxic cially mats.
cleaning fluid used to remove uncured
resin from tools and clothing. Acetone is BOND — The adhesion between two mater-
a solvent which will ruin some synthetic ials. Also, to attach materials together by
plastic such as rayon and Dacron. means of an adhesive agent.

ACTIVATOR -See ACCELERATOR BUTT JOINT — A joint made by positioning

materials together end-to-end or side-
AIR BUBBLES — Entrapment of air particles by-side without any overlap.
in resinor a fiberglass laminate caused by
improper mixing of the resin, improper CATALYST — Material added to resin to
wetting out of a laminate, forming of the make it cure rapidly by oxidation with an
fiberglass material around abrupt corners, accelerator as in polyester resins. This
etc. Air bubbles weaken the bond in a causes the heat which in turn cures the
fiberglass laminate. resin. The catalyst used in most polyester
resins for boat work is methyl ethyl ketone
"AIREX" — Registered tradename for closed- peroxide, usually referred to as "M-E-K"
cell, non-friable rigid elastic polyvinyl peroxide.
chloride (PVC) foam produced by AIREX
Limited, Switzerland. CAVITY MOLD — The female half of a mold
which encloses the molded hull in pro-
AIR-INHIBITED RESIN-A resin which will duction fiberglass boat manufacturing.
not completely cure or "set up" in the Often referred to as the "mold."
presence of air. Polyester resin which does
not contain wax is classed as "air in- CHOPPER GUN — A special spray gun used
hibited." for spray-up laminating which chops pre-
determined lengths of fiberglass roving or
"ARABOL" — Tradename for a synthetic strands, and deposits them together with
plasticized resin similarto white polyvinyl catalyzed resin at the same time onto the
glue made by the Borden Chemical Com- mold surface.

113
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS . . .

CLOTH — A woven fabric made from fine "DYNEL" — Tradename modacrylic fiberfor
yarns of fiberglass. invented by Union Carbide and spun or
woven into various fabrics by other mill-
COLOR PIGMENTS-Coloring material ing companies. The material is often used
added to resins to give them color, much over fiberglass covered surfaces or as a
the same as pigments used in paints. covering by itself in association with
resin.
COMPOSITE — Type of construction using
two or more different materials, such as EPOXY RESIN — Thermosetting resins in boat
resin and fiberglass material, together. work of a two-part type, that when com-
bined, cure and form into an extremely
CRAZING — Hairline cracks either within or hard and tough product. They will adhere
on the surface of fiberglass laminates, well to virtually any material, shrink less
caused by stresses generated by excessive than polyester have generally
resins,
heat during cure, removal from the mold, greater strength, and absorb less water,
impact, or flexing. although they are much more expensive.

CURE — The changing of the liquid resin to a EXOTHERMIC HEAT-The heat given off by
solid state. Once the resin begins to cure, the resin developed internally during the
the process cannot be reversed. The tech- curing process, or "polymerization." It is

nical term for cure is "polymerization." caused by the reaction of the accelerator
and the catalyst when mixed in polyester
CURE TIME — The time required for the resins, and by the hardener in epoxy
liquid resin to reach a point when it is hard resins.
enough to have other processes per-
formed with it, such as sanding or finish- FEATHER EDGE — The process of tapering
ing, or when it is no longer "tacky" or the edge of a resin-saturated fiberglass
"sticky." Technically, it is the time re- material to blend with the adjoining sur-
quired for the resin to reach a "polymer- face, as opposed to having an abrupt
ized state" after the catalyst has been edge.
added.
FIBERGLASS — Fibersimilarto those of other
DELAMINATION — Separation or failure of fabrics, but made from glass. Materials
the bond in laminate layers from each made from fiberglass fibers in boat work
other or from another surface material. include cloth fabrics, rovings and woven
rovings, unidirectional rovings, and var-
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY-The ability to ious mats.
retain constant shape and size, as op-
posed to "stretching" and "shrinking." FILAMENT — A hair-like particle or "rod" of
glass used to make fiberglass yarns and
DRAPEABILITY-The ability of a fiberglass threads. A fiberglass filament can be
material to conform to contours, corners, made in virtually an endless length.
and shapes when saturated with resin.
FILLER — Material added to resin to extend
DRY SPOT — Area of low resin content in a the volume or change the qualities of the
fiberglass and resin composite or lamin- resin. There is a limit to the amount of
ate. Also referred to as a "resin starved" filler that can be added to a resin without
area.

114
 .

. . . glossary

affecting the desirable qualities of the female mold process and usually applied
resin. by spraying.

FILLET — A rounded filling on an inside GEL TIME— The time it takes to change the
corner or angle. liquid resin toa non-flowing
gel. Also, the
time available for working the resin once
FINISH — The surface cleaning treatment applied. See also POT LIFE.
applied to the glass fibers after weaving
them into cloth in order to allow the resin HAND LAY UP-The application of fiber-
to flow freely around and adhere to them glass laminates using manual labor usu-
The finish determines the quality of the ally in a female mold to produce a boat
adhesion between the glass and the resin. hull or related structure. This is the
The common finish for fiberglass in boat common method used to produce fac-
work is chrome or "Volan" finish. tory-built fiberglass boats.

FIRE-RETARDANT — Resin type which has HARDENER-See CATALYST The catalyst

been formulated with chemicalsto reduce for epoxy resins is commonly called the
or eliminate its tendency to burn when "hardener."
once cured or "polymerized."
INHIBITOR — An additive to polyester resin
FLEXIBILITY-A qualitative term used to which retards curing or polymerization
describe the amount of rigidity imparted thereby extending the shelf life of the
by a resin after it cures. Resin is usually resin. It also influences gel time and
classed as either flexible, semi-flexible (or exothermic heat.
semi-rigid), and rigid, but the terms are
largely subjective. The purely flexible LAMINATE — A material or composition
types are not often used boat work,
in made from successive layers of resin and
while the semi-flexible resins are used fiberglass materials bonded together.
mostly for gel coats or where dimensional
stability of the item covered is a problem. LAMINATION— The laying on of layers of
For most boat work a rigid resin (which is fiberglass materials and resin, much like

really not totally rigid) is used for dur- the build-up of plywood laminations. The
ability. layers of material are bonded together
with resin to form the laminate.
FOAM — In boat work this term usually refers
foam plastics of three types: Poly-
to rigid LAP JOINT — A joint made by positioning
styrene ("styrofoam"), polyurethane (in- one material over another end-to-end or
cludingthepour-in-placetype), and poly- side-by-side as opposed to a butt joint.
vinyl chloride (PVC). The joint consists of two layers of
material.
GEL/GELATION -The partial cure of poly-
ester resin to a semi-solid or "jelly-like" LAY UP — The placing of fiberglass reinforc-
state. ing materials onto the mold surface and
applying the resin to form the completed
GEL COAT — A thin surface coat of specially laminate.
formulated polyester resin used as the
surface covering on hulls made using the

115
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
MAT — Randomly oriented strands of glass the presence of air. A surfacing agent
fibers formed into a felt and held together (usually wax) is added to the resin which
with a binder, usually of thinned polyester floats to the surface to exclude the air
resin in a powder-like form. Most mat from the resin surface, thereby allowing it
material used in boat work is the chopped- to cure or "polymerize."
strand type.
PARTING AGENT-Any material used to
"M-E-K" or "M-E-K-P"- Methyl ethyl ketone coat the mold to prevent the molded part
peroxide, a catalyst commonly used for from sticking when being removed, or a
polyester resin. See Chapter 3 for clar- material used to keep resin from sticking
ification. to any part of the work. Common release
agents are wax, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA),
"MICROBALLOONS"-Hollow lightweight cellophane, glass, and "Formica." Wax
microscopic gas-filled phenolic balloons and PVA are commonly used in female
made by Union Carbide and used as a filler mold factory production boatbuilding.
in resin. The material is of a brown
powder-like consistency, and when mixed PLUG — A male form shape to
identical in

with resin, forms what is called "syntactic the finished object over which a female
foam." mold is fabricated.

"MICROSPHERES"-Hollow lightweight mi- POLYESTER RESIN-Thermosetting resins

croscopic Saran spheres made by Dow which require the addition of a catalyst
Chemical and used with resin to make a and accelerator to effect the cure. This
The material is a white powder-like
filler. type of resin is used for most boat work.
consistency, and when mixed with resin, See also EPOXY RESIN.
forms what is called "syntactic foam."
POLYMER — The technical word for the end
MOLD — An appliance or device used to product which is usually solid, and pro-
shape and/or duplicate a part. When a duced from a monomer.
part is made over and around the exterior
of the mold, this type of mold is called a POLYMERIZATION - The chemical reac-
"male mold." When the part is made tion of monomer, usually from a liquid
inside the mold surface, this type of mold state to a solid state. See also CURE.
is called a "female mold." See also
CAVITY MOLD. POT LIFE — The length of time that a cata-
lyzed resin remains workable while in a
MOLD RELEASE-See PARTING AGENT. container until it must be discarded.
Similar to GEL TIME (see also) except
MONOMER — The technical word for a com- that gel time refers to the resin on the
pound which is usually in liquid form and surface.
has the ability to be changed into a
polymer (solid form), or "polymerized." PROMOTOR-See ACCELERATOR.
Styrene is a common monomer used in
polyester resins. RELEASE AGENT-See PARTING AGENT.

NON AIR - INHIBITED RESIN

- - A resin RESIN — A liquid plastic substance about the
which will completely cure or "set up" in consistency of honey and used in con-

116
 . . . glossary

junction with fiberglass materials to form fiberglass rovings and catalyzed

posits
a laminate. In boat work, polyester and onto the mold surface. See also
resin
epoxy resins are the common types. HAND LAY UP.

RESIN RICH — An area, especially in a SQUEEGEE — Any tool used to wet out a
laminate, where too much resin has been laminate with a smoothing, spreading, or
applied in relation to the fiberglass rein- wiping action, in order to prevent wrin-
forcing material. The opposite of a DRY kles and remove air bubbles.
SPOT or "resin starved" area. Also referred
to as a "resin pocket" and "resin streak." STRAND — A bundle of continuous fiber-
glass filaments.
ROVING — Continuous strands of glass fi-

bers grouped together to form an un- STYRENE — A water-thin liquid hydrocarbon

twisted yarn or rope. Rovings are com- monomer which is the primary ingredient
monly used for chopper gun spray-up of polyester resin. Also can be used as a
laminates and to form woven rovings. thinner of polyester resin.

SANDWICH CONSTRUCTION -A type of SURFACING AGENT-Material added to

fiberglass construction which resembles polyester resin or used in association with
a sandwich consisting of relatively dense it to prevent air from reaching the surface
but high-strength facings bonded to a less of polyester resin so the resin can cure.
dense but thicker intermediate material Surfacing agent is commonly paraffin
or "core." Core materials in boat work wax in a solution, although PVA can be
include foams, balsa, lumber, and ply- used also.
wood.
SURFACING MAT- A lightweight but rather
SET UP — Resin which cures and hardens is mat used next to the gel coat in a
stiff

said to have "set up," or "polymerized." female mold to improve surface appear-
ance of the final product as well as
SHELF LIFE — The length of time an uncat- minimize water absorption.
alvzed resin remains usable while stored
in a sealed container. Most polyester SYNTACTIC FOAM-Resin which has been
resins have a useful shelf life of from six made lower in density, lighter in weight,
months to one year. less viscous, and generally "stretched
out" by the addition of fillers.

SIZING — The surface treatment on glass

fibers during the fiber forming operation THERMOPLASTIC RESIN-A type of resin
which aids in machine manufacture as which can be repeatedly softened or re-
well as allowing the resin to adhere to the formed by the application of heat, and
fibers in use, as is the case with mats and can be rehardened by cooling. This type
rovings. Sizing is similar to FINISH for of resin is not used in boat work.
cloth, but because mats and rovings are
not "dirtied" by the weaving process, no THERMOSETTING RESIN-A type of resin
finish is required. which will undergo a chemical change
from a liquid state as the result of the heat
SPRAY-UP — In boat work, a method of induced by the addition of certain mater-
fiberglass lay up performed with a CHOP- ials. Once it becomes solid, it cannot be

PER GUN (see also) which cuts and de- reformed by reheating. Polyester and

117
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS
epoxy resins are of the thermosetting number of light rovings at right angles to
type. them so that high directional strength
properties can result in a laminate.
THICKENER — Material added to resin to
thicken or increase the viscosity of the "VECTRA" — Trade name for polypropylene
resin so it will not flow as readily. A fiber made by the Vectra Company and
common thickener in polyester resins spun or woven into various fabrics by
used for boat work is silica, which helps other milling companies. The material is
make the resin THIXOTROPIC (see also). often used in place of fiberglass cloth
See also FILLER. in association with resin.

THINNER — Material added to resin in order VISCOSITY — The measure of the resistance
to thin itor lower the viscosity of the resin. of a liquid to flow. A more viscous liquid
There is a limit to the amount of thinner will not flow as easily as one that has less
that can be added without affecting the viscosity.
desirable qualities of the resin. STYRENE
(see also) is the common thinner for poly- WET OUT — The ability of a resin to quickly
ester although acetone will thin
resin, saturate the fiberglass material.
resin also, but should generally not be
used for this purpose. WOVEN ROVING -Fiberglass rovings wo-
ven into a coarse fabric much heavier
THIXOTROPIC — A quality of some resins to than, but similar to, plain square weave
thicken at rest but become fluid again on cloth fabric.
agitation and stirring. Thixotropic resins
are used in boat work to minimize runs YARN— Twisted strand or strands of glass
and sags on vertical surfaces. fibers which can be woven, braided,
served, and processed on conventional
UNIDIRECTIONAL ROVING - Heavy textile equipment.
crimped parallel rovings with a smaller

118
 . . . acknowledgements

Many firms and individuals provided 91 which originally appeared in his book,
much material, technical advice, and re- "One-off AIREX Fiberglass Sandwich Con-
lated help in the preparation of this book. struction."
Particular thanks should be given to those Excellent photos of and mat, roving,
people who took their valuable time to woven roving appearing on page were 11
check over various portions of the text in the provided by courtesy of Owens-Corning
hopes of assuring technical accuracy, and Fiberglass Corp., while the photos of balsa
who assisted with their admonitions and core construction on page 81 were provided
confirmations of various "facts" about the by the Baltek Corp. Other photos and
subjects discussed. On the subject of fiber- illustrations were provided by GLEN-L Ma-
glass materials and resins in general, per- rine Designs or made by the author. Partic-
sonal thanks are given to Herb Gersich of ularthanks is given to the many other people
Gerisch Products, Richard L Bray, Jr., (boatbuilders, naval architects, and others
Manager Market Development of the
of experienced with fiberglass) who took the
Western District, Coatings and Resins Divi- time to respond to the surveys used in
sion of PPG Industries, and to Vince Beck of preparing the text.
Corecraft, all experts in the field Tom The following listing of firms is provided
Coleman of Custom Marine Finishes was not only so the reader may obtain additional
generous in giving his time to provide much information on the various products and
valuable assistance concerning the spraying processes presented, but also to give proper
of resins and the finishing of fiberglass credit for these firm's assistance Please note
covered boats. His local reputation for deft that the addresses are current as of this
handling of resin in these areas of finish work writing and also that many of the firms listed
is well known and highly regarded. are national in scope and may have local
Special thanks is given to two individuals representatives.
who made the effort to travel to meet with
me personally from their remote business
locations several thousand miles away as
well ascommunicating numerous times by
mail and telephone. They are William BALTEK CORPORATION
Seemann, III, of Seemann Plastics, who 10 Fairway Court
provided technical help on "C-FLEX" fiber- Northvale, NJ 07647
glass planking along with the photos appear- (Manufacturers of BELCOBALSA CON
ing on pages 96 and 97, and Thomas J. TOURKORE balsa core materials)
Johannsen of Chemacryl, Inc. Mr Johann-
sen not only provided much technical help BORDEN CHEMICAL CO
on PVC foam and the photos appearing on 50 Broad St.

page 86, but also allowed the use of the Columbus, OH 43215
various illustrations on pages 87, 89, 90 and (Manufacturers of ARABOL glue products)

119
 HOW TO FIBERGLASS BOATS

BORDEN CHEMICAL CO. (UK) LTD. RAM CHEMICALS

North Baddesley, 210 East Alondra Blvd.
Southampton, ENGLAND Gardena, CA 90247
(Manufacturers of CASCOVER sheathing (Manufacturers of resins, gel coats, release
products) agents, and related products)

CHEMACRYL, INC. SEEMANN PLASTICS

1051 Clinton St. P.O. Box 51647
Buffalo, NY 14206 New Orleans, LA 70151
(Distributors of AIREX PVC foam) (Manufacturers of "C-FLEX" fiberglass
planking materials)
CUSTOM MARINE FINISHES
6525 E. Compton Blvd. SILMAR DIVISION, VISTRON CORP.
Paramount, CA 90723 12335 South Van Ness,
(Boat fiberglassing, finishing, and repairing) Hawthorne, CA 90250
(Manufacturers of resins)
DOW CHEMICAL CO.
Midland, Ml 48640 THORPE PRODUCTS
(Manufacturers of Saran Microspheres) 2430 Broad St.

Carson, CA 90745
FIBRE GLASS EVERCOAT CO., INC. (Manufacturers of Arabol-based deck cover-
6600 Cornell Rd. ing products)
Cincinnati, OH 45242
(Distributors of fiberglass materials and UNION CARBIDE CORP.
resins) 270 Park Ave.
New York, NY 10012
GERISCH PRODUCTS (Manufacturers of Microballoons and Dynel
1335 West 228th St. fibers)
Torrance,CA 90501
(Wholesale distributors of fiberglass mater- THE VECTRA CO.
ials and resins) 350 Fifth Ave.
New NY 10001
York,
OWENS-CORNING FIBERGLASS CORP. (Manufacturers of Vectra fibers)
Fiberglass Tower
Toledo, OH 43659
(Manufacturers of fiberglass materials)

PPG INDUSTRIES
500 Office Center
Office Center Dr.
Philadelphia, PA 19034
(Manufacturers of fiberglass materials and
resins)

120
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