Clymer Suzuki GT 380 750

M368
HIGH
PERFORMANCE
HOW-TO
CLYMER
380-75Occ TRIPLES • 1972-1977

SERVICE • REPAIR • PERFORMANCE
;
-
380-750ccTRIPLES '1972-1977
ALAN AHLSTRAND
Editor
JEFF ROBINSON
Publisher
CLYMER PUBLICATIONS
Wor!d's largest publisher of books devoted exclusively to
automobiles and motorcycles.
J2860 MUSCATINE STREET • P.O. BOX 4520-ARLETA, CALIFÓRNIA 91333-4520

Chapter One
General Information
Chapter Two
Periodíc Maintenance
Chapter Three
Engine/ Transmission, and Clutch
Chapter Four
Liquid Cooling System
Chapter Five
Eléctrica! System
Chapter Six
Carburetors
Chapter Seven
Frame, Suspension, and Steering
Chapter Eight
Troubleshooting
Chapter Nine
Performance Improvement
Appendix
Specifications
CONTENTS
QUICK REFERENCE DATA . . . . . . . . VII
CHAPTER ONE
GENERAL INFORMATION
Service hints Mcchanic's tips

Tools Safety first
Expendable supplies
CHAPTER TWO
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Maintenance schedule Idle speed
Engine tune-up Periodic checks
CHAPTERTHREE
ENGINE, TRANSMISSION, AND CLUTCH 23
Engine principies Primary pinion

Engine lubrication Crankcase
Oil pump Crankshaft
Preparation for engine disasscmbly Transmission
Engine removal Kicksíarter
Cylinder head Shífter
Cylinders Oil seals
Piston, pin, and rings Bearings
Clutch
CHAPTER FOUR
LIQU1D COOLING SYSTEM 71

Radiator Cooling systcm maintenance
Thermostat Fan circuit
Water pump Troubleshooting
CHAPTER FIVE
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 80
Ignition system Starter relay

Alternator Síarter clutch
Rectifier Lighís
Voltage regulator Horn
Electric startcr Battery
QUICK REFERENCE DATA
Breaker plate screws
Breaker
plate
screws
Base plate screvv
IGNITION SPEC1FICATIONS
in. (mm) In. (mm)
Breaker point gap 0.014 (0.35) GT380 L 0.094 (2.40)
Spark ptug gap 0.028 (0.7) GT380 M 0.090 {2.30r

o.oas (2.25)-^
Ignition timing {distance BTDC)
GT550 0.132 (3.37)
GT3SO A, B O.OS2 (2.09)* GT750 J, K, L, M 0.143 (3.64)*
0.080 (2.05)** 0.134 (3.42)**
GT3SO J, K 0.117 (2.99)'- GT750 A, B 0.142 (3,63)*
0.115 (2.93)** 0.134 (3.42)**
:: RigHt and left cylindors Centc-r cylinder
vn
IDL.E M1XTURE ADJUSTMENT ADJUSTMENTS
Model Turns Throttle cable free play VM carburetors — 0.04 in.

(Imm); BS carburetors —
GT380 !'/< 0.1-0.2 in. (2-3mm) cable
slack bctween adjuster and
GT550J, K pulley on carburetor
GT550 (allothers)
GT75G J, K Clutcli lever frec play 0.12 in. (3mm) free play at
at handlebar lever
GT750 L
GT750 M, A, B
Dríve chain free play 0.6-0.8 in.(15-20mm)
NOTE: Tolerancc for adjustmcnts is -• '/; turn.

Adjust for smootricst idle. Front drum brake 0.8-1.2 in. (20-30mm)
lever-to-grip
BATTERY APPLICATION
Rear brake pedal free play 0.8-1.2 in. (20-30mm)
GT3SO B; GT550 K, L, M, A, B 12N11-3A-1

GT550J 12N11-3B
GT380J. K, L, M. A 12N7-4A
RECOMMENDED FUEL AND LUBRICANTS
GGT750 12N14-3A
SPARK PLUG APPLICATION
SAE 20/40 oil

Moilel NGK ND Champion
GT3SOJ. K B-7ES W22ES N3-MC Front forhs SAE 10 W. 30 oil, ATF (automatic
transmission fluid), or speciol
GT550J, K, L B-7ES W22E3 N3-MC
front fork oil
GT75D J, K B-7ES W22ES N3-MC
GT3SO L, M, A, B B-8ES W24ES N2-MC Drive chain SAE 30 oil or spcdal chain
iubricant
GT550 M, A, B B-8ES W24ES • N2-MC
GT750 M. A, B B-8ES W24ES N2-MC

Fuel Low-lead or non-lead gasoline
GT750 L B-6ES W20ES H4-MC 85-95 (research) octane
CAPACITIES
Transmission Front Fork (each leg)

Model cc U.S. pt. Imp. pt. cc U.S. oz. Imp. oz.
GT380 J, K 1400 2.9 2.5 210 7.1 5.9
GT380 (allothers) 1500 3.2 2.6 145 4.9 4.1
GT550J, K, L 1500 3.2 2.6 235 7.9 6.6
GT550 f a t l others) 1500 3.2 2.6 160 5.4 4.5
GT750 J, K 2200 4.6 3.9 235 7.9 6.6
GT750 (ali others) 2200 4.6 3.9 160 5.4 4.5
VIII
CHAPTER ONE
GENERAL INFORMATION
This book provides complete service and agent. Gasoline prcsents an extreme fire hazard.
repaír information for owners of Suzuki triple Be sure to work in a well ventilated área when
cylinder motorcycles. The contents apply to íhc you use cleaning solvent. Keep a fire extin-
GT380, GT550, and GT750. guisher, rated for gasoline fires, handy just
in case.
SERVICE HINTS Special íools are required for some service
procedures. These tools may be purchased at
Most of íhe service procedures described in Suzuki dealers. Tf you are on good terms with
this book are straightforward, and can be per- the dealer's service department, you may be
formed by anyone who is reasonably handy with able to use his.
tools. It is suggested however, that you con- Much of the labor charge for repairs made by
sider your own capabilities carefully before you dealers is for removal and disassembly of other
attempt any operation which involves major parts to reach íhe defective one. It is frequently
disassembly of the engine. Some operations, for possible for you ío do ali of this yourself, thcn
example, require íhe use of a press. It would be take the affected subassembly into the dealer
wiser to have those operations performed by a for repair.
shop equipped for such work, rather than to try Once you decide to íacklc the job yourself,
to do íhe job yourself wiíh makeshift equipmení. read the entire section in this manual which pcr-
Some procedures require precision measure- lains to lhe job. Study the illustrations and the
ments. Unless you have the skills and equip- text until you have a good idea of what is in-
ment to make these measuremenís, it would be volved. Tf special tools are required, make
better to have a motorcycle shop make them arrangements to get them before you starí íhe
for you. job. It is frustrating to get paríly into a job and
You will find íhat repairs will go much faster then find íhat you are unable to complete it.
and easier if your machine is clean before you
begin work. There are special cleaners for wash-
ing the engine and related parts. Just brush or TOOLS
spray on the cleaning solution, let it stand, then Every motorcyclist should carry a small toof
rinse it away with a garden hose. Clean ali oily kit with him, to hclp make rninor roadside ad-
or greasy parts wiíh cleaning solvení as you justments or repairs. A suggesíed kit, available
remove them. Never use gasoline as a cleaning at most dealers, is shown in Figure 1.
CHAPTER ONE
11
MOTORCYCLE TOOL KIT

1. Tool bag 7. No. 3 Phillips screwdriver
2. 10 x 14mm Open-end wrench 8. 135mm Pliers
3. 17 x 19mm Open-end wrench 9- 9 x 12mm Open-end wrench
4. Spark plug wrench 10. 10 x 13mm Open-end wrench
5. Screwdriver handle 11. Screwdriver handle
6. No. 2 Phillips and slotted
screwdriver
GENERAL INFORMATION
For more exíensíve service, an assortment of 3. Hydrometer (Figure 4). This instrument
ordinary hand tools is required. As a minimum, measures battery state of charge, and tells much
have the following available. Note that ali about battery condition. Hydrometers are avail-
threaded fasíeners are metric sizes. able at ali auto parts stores.
1. Combinatíon 6. Phillips screw-
wrenches drivers
2. Socket wrenches 7. Pliers
3. Plasíic mallet 8. Slot screwdrivers
4. Small hammer 9. Feeler gauges
5. Snap ring pliers 10. Spark plug wrench
A few special íools are also required. The
first few are inexpensive, and will pay for them- 4. Multimeter, or VOM (Figure 5). This in-
selves very quickly. strument is invaluable for electrical system
1. Ignirion gauge (Figure 2). This tool com- troubleshooting and service. A few of iís func-
bines round wire spark plug gauges with breaker tions may be duplicated by locally fabricated
poiní feeler gauges. substitutes, but for the serious hobbyist, it is a
must. Its uses are described in the applicable
sections of this book. Prices.start at around $10
at eíectronics hobbyist stores and mail order
outlets.
2. Timing gauge (Figure 3). Suzuki bikes re-

quire that ignition timing be sei individually for
each cylinder, wiíh each piston in a specified
posiíion. By screwing this instrument in each
spark plug hole, piston position may be deter-
mined easily.
5. Compression gatige (Figure 6). An engine

with low compression cannot be properly tuned
and will not develop full power. The corapres-
síon gauge shown hás a flexible stem, which
enables it to reach cylinders where there is little
clearance between the cylinder head and frame.
6. Irnpact driver (Figure 7). This tool might
have been designed with the motorcyclist in
mind. It makes removal of engine cover screws
easy, and eliminates damaged screw slots.
CHAPTER ONE
For a frozen bolt or nut, apply penetrating

oil, then rap it with a hammer. Turn it off with
the proper size wrench. If the points are rounded
off, grip with vise-type pliers as described for
screws.
Stripped Threads
Occasionally, threads are stripped through
carelessness or impact damage. Often íhe
threads can be cleaned up by running a tap (for
internai threads) or die (for externai threads)
through the threads. See Figure 8.
EXPENDABLE SUPPLIES
Certain expendable supplies are also re-
quircd. These include grease, oii, gasket cement,
wiping rags, cleaning solvent, and disíilled
watcr. Cleaning solvent is available at many
service stations. Distílled water, required for
battery service, is available at evcry super-
markct. It is sold for use in steam irons, and is
quite inexpensive.
MECHANIC'S TIPS
Rcmoving Frozcn Nuts and Scrcws
When a fastener rusts and cannot be re-
moved, severa! methods may be used to loosen
it. First apply penetrating oil liberally. Rap the
fastener several times with a small hammer; do Broken Screw or Bolt
not hít it hard enough to cause damage. When the head breaks off a screw or bolt,
For frozen screws, apply oil as described, several methods are available for removing the
then insert a screwdriver in the slot and rap the remaining portion.
top of the screwdriver with a hammer. This If a large portion of the remainder projects
loosens the rust só the screw can be removed out, try gripping it with vise-type pliers. If the
in the normal way. If the screw head is too projecting portion is too small, try filing it to fit
chewed up to use a screwdriver, grip the head a wrench or cut a slot in it to fit a screwdriver.
with vise-type pliers and turn the screw out. See Figure 9.
E GENERAL INFORMATION
If the head breaks off fíush, as it usually does,

remove it with a screw extractor. Refer to Fig-
ure 10. Center-punch the broken part, then drill
a hole into it. Drill sizes are marked on the tool.
Tap the extractor into the broken part, then
back it out with a wrench.
Removing Damaged Screws

WARNING
When removing screws by this method,
always wear suiíable eye protection.
1. Center punch 2. Drill hole
3. Tap extractor into hole 4. Remove screw

CHAPTER ONE
CAUTION
Use clean rags to cover bcarings or
ony olher paris which mighí bc harmed
by metal cínps proditced during this
proccdurc.
Figure 11 illustrates damaged screws typical

of those on many bikes. Such screws may usu-
ally be removed easily by drilling. Sclect a bit
vvith a diameter larger íhan that of the damaged
screw, but smaller than íts head, then drill into
tht: screw head (Figure 12) until the head sepa-
rares from the screw. The remainder of the
screw may then be turned out easily. Figure 13
iilustratcs onc scrcw head removed in this man-
ner. The other hás been drilled to jusí the point SAFETY FIRST
where the head is separating from the screw
body. Note that there is no damage to the plate Professional mechanics can \vork for years
which these screws reíain. without sustaining serious injury. If you observe
a few rules of common sense and safety, you can
also enjoy many safe hours servicing your own
machine. You can also hurt yourself or damage
the bíke if you ignore these rules.
1. Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent.
2. Never smoke or use a torch near flammable
liquids, such as cleaning solvent in opcn
containers.
3. Never smoke or use a torch in an área where
batteries are charging. Highly explosive hydro-
gen gás is formed during lhe charging process.
4. If welding or brazing is required on the
machine, remove the fuel tank to a safe dis-
tance, at least 50 feet away.
5. Be sure to use proper size wrenches for
nut turning.
6. If a nut is tight, think for a moment what
would happen to your hand should the wrench
slip. Be guided accordingly.
7. Keep your work área clean and uncluttered.
8. Wear safety goggles in ali operations involv-
ing drilling, grinding, or use of a chisel.
9. Never use worn tools.
10. Keep a fire extenguisher handy. Be sure thaí
it is rated for gasoline and electrical fires.
CHAPTER TWO
To obtain the utmost in safety, reliability, and Table l MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

performance from your motorcycle, it is neccs-
Inilial Miles Thereaftw
sary to perform periodic inspections, adjust- Service Item 500 1,000 2,000
menís, and maintenancc procedures. Frequently,
minor problems found during such inspections Chance oil X X
are simple and inexpensive to correct at the Check electrical equipment X X
time, but could lead to major faílures later. This Service breaker points X X
chapter describes such services. Spark plugs x X

Aiijust ignltíon timing x X
Table l is a suggested maíntenance schedule. Service air cleaner X
Note that under more severe riding conditíons Adjust oil pump x x
some maintenance items may require attention Adjust cluícli x x
more frequently. Remove carbon x
Glean exhaust system x
ENGINE TUNE-UF
Clean fuel strainer x
Check brakcs x x
The number of definitions of the term "tune- Check chain x x
up" is probably equal to the number of people Check spokes x x
defining it. For purposes of this book, we will Tighten ali fasteners x x
define a tune-up as a general adjustment and/or Grease chassis x
service of ali scheduled maintenancc items to
ensure continued peak operating efficiency of a spark, and adequate compression. I!' for any
motorcycle engine. As part of a proper tune-up, reason compression is low, the engine will not
some service procedures are essential. The fol- develop full power. A compression test, or even
lowing paragraphs discuss details of these better, a series of them over the life of the bike,
procedures. will tell much about engine condition.
To make a compression test, proceed as
Compression Tcst folio ws.
An engine needs 3 basics to develop full 1. Start the engine, then ride the bike long
power—proper fuel mixture, properly timed enough to warm it thoroughly.
CHAPTER TWO
2. Remove ali spark plugs. the engine's past history, it is an indication of

3. Screw the compression gauge into one spark trouble.
plug holc, or if a press-in type gauge is used, It is for the reasons outlined in the foregoing
hold it firmly in posiíion. paragraphs that íhe serious motorcycle hobbyist
4. With the throttle fully open, operate íhe will want to own and use his own compression
kickstarter briskly several times; the compres- gauge, and also keep a permanent record of its
sion gauge indication will increasc wíth each findings. It sbould be pointed out, however, that
kick. Continue to crank the engine until the measurements taken with different gauges are
gauge indicates no more increase, then record not necessarily conclusive, because of produc-
the compression gauge indication. tion tolerances, calibration errors, and other
factors.
Example:
Ist kick 50psi
2nd kick 80 psi Spark Plugs
3rd kick 90 psi Among the first steps to be done during any
4th kick 100 psi tune-up is to examine the plugs. Spark plug con-
Sth kick 100 psi dition can tell much about engine condition and
carburetion to a trained observer.
5. Repeat this proccdure for each remaining To remove a spark plug, first clean íhe área
cylinder. around its base to prevent dirt or other foreign
Because of differences in individual engines, material from entering the cylinder. Then un-
compression gauges, and various other factors, screw the spark plug, using a 13/16 in. deep
no deíinite compression pressures can be spe- socket. If difficulty is encountered removing a
cified for any one engine. However, a series of spark plug, apply penetrating oil to its base and
measurements madc over a period of time may allow some 20 minutes for the oil to work in. It
reveal trouble ahead, long bcfore the engine may also be helpful to rap the cylinder head
exhibits serious symptoms. Consider this exam- lightly with a rubber or plastic mallet; this pro-
ple (Tablc 2) for a typical bike. cedure sets up vibrations which help the pene-
trating oil to work in.
Table 2 COMPRESSION HISTORY
Figure l illustrates various conditions which
Mileage Compression Press ure might be encountered upon plug removal.
Left Center Right
Normal condhion—\i plugs have a light tan or
New 120 125 120 gray colored deposit and no abnormal gap wear
2,000 120 125 120 or erosion, good engine, carburetion, and igni-
4,000 125 125 120 tion condition are indicated. The plug in use is
6,000 125 120 115 of the proper heat range, and may be serviced
8,000 120 90 120 and returned to use.
Carbon fouled—Soft, dry sooty deposits are evi-
dence of incomplete combustion and can usually
Notice the sudden drop in center cylinder
be attributed to rich carburetion. This condition
compression. On multicylinder machines, a 20
is also sometimes caused by weak ignition, re-
pcrcent differencc between compression pres-
tarded timing, or low compression. Such a plug
sures for any cylinders should be taken as an
may usually be cleaned and returned to service,
indication of trouble. Likcwíse, a difference
but the condition which causes fouling should
of 20 percent between successive compression
be corrected.
pressures, measured over a period of time, is
also an indication of trouble. Note that a one- Oil fouled—Thís plug exhibits a black insulator
time compression test taken at 8,000 miles tip, damp oily film over the firing end, and a
might be considered normal, but compared with carbon layer over the entire nose. Electrodes
SPARK PLUG CONDITIONS

©
NORMAL USE
OIL FOULED CARBON FOULED
GAP BRIDGED
OVERHEATED
\N OUT
SUSTAINED PREIGNITION
Photos courtesy of Champion Spark Plug Company.

10 CHAPTER TWO
will not be worn. Common causes for this con- Spark plugs may usually be cleaned and re-
dition are listed below. gapped, which will restore them to near new
a. Oil pump misadjustment condition. Since the effort involved is consider-
able, such service may not be worth it, since new
b. Wrong type of oil
spark plugs are relatively inexpensive.
c. Idle speed too Io w For those who wish to service used plugs, the
d. Idle misture too rích following procedure is recommended.
e. Clogged air filter 1. Clean ali oily deposits from the spark plug
f. Weak ignition with cleaning solvent, then blow dry with com-
g. Excessive idling pressed air. If this precaution is not taken, oily
h. Spark plug too cold deposits will cause gumming or caking of the
sandblast cleaner.
Oil fouled spark plugs may bc cleaned in a 2. Place the spark plug in a sandblast cleaner
pinch, but it is better to replace them. It is im- and blast 3-5 seconds, then turn on air only to
portant to correct the cause of fouling before the remove particles from the plug.
engine is returncd to service.
3. Repeat Step 2 as required until the plug is
Gap hridging—Plugs with this condition cxhibit cleaned. Prolonged sandblasting will erode the
gaps shortcd out by combustion chamber de- insulator and make the plug much more sus-
posits fused between electrodes. Common causes ceptible to fouling.
of this condition are improper fuel/oil mixture 4. Bend the side eléctrodo up slightly, then file
or a clogged exhaust system. Be sure to locate the center electrode só that it is no longer
and correct the cause of this spark plug condi- rounded, and the side electrode só that its edges
tion, Such plugs must be replaced with new ones. are not rounded. The reason for this step is that
• Overheaicd—Ovcrhcatcd spark plugs exhibit less voltage is required to jump between sharp
burned electrodes. The insulator tip will be light corners than between rounded edges.
gray or even chalk white. The most common 5. Adjust spark plug gap to 0.028 in. (0.7mm)
cause for this condition is using a spark plug of for ali models, using a round wire gauge for
the wrong heat range (too hot). If it is known measurement (Figure 2). A spark plug gapping
that lhe correct plug is used, other causes are tool does the best job, if one is available.
lean fuel mixture, engine overloading or lug-
ging, loose carburetor mounting, or timing
advanced too far. Always correct the fault be-
fore putting the bike back into service. Such
plugs cannot be salvaged; replace with new oncs.
Worn oiti—Corrosive gases formed by combus-
tion and high voltage sparks have eroded the
electrodes. Spark plugs in this condition require
more voltage to firc under hard acceleration;
often more than the ignition system can supply.
Replace them with new plugs of the same heat
range,
Preignition—\t electrodes are melted, preignition
is almost certainly the cause. Check for carbu-
retor mounting or intake manifold leaks, also
overadvanced ignition timing. It is also possible Carbon Removal
that a plug of the wrong heat range (too hot) is Two-stroke engines are particularly suscep-
being used. Find the cause of preignition before tible to carbon formation. Deposiís form on the
placing the engine back into service. inside of the cylinder head, on top of the piston,
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 11
and within the exhaust port. Combustion cham-

ber deposits result in an increase in compression
raíio, which can cause overheating, preigniíion,
and possible severe engine damage. Carbon de-
posits within the exhaust port, exhaust pipe, and
muffler restrict engine breathing, thus causing
loss of power.
To remove carbon from the engine, it is first
necessary to remove the cylinder head, cylin-
ders, and pistons. Refer to Chapter Three for
details of reraoving these components.
An easy method for removing cylinder head
deposits is to use the rounded end of a hacksaw
blade as a scraper, as shown in Figure 3. Be very
careful not to cause any damage to the sealing
surface.
The same tool may be used for removing car-

bon deposiís from piston heads (Figure 4). After
cleaning ali deposits from the piston head, clean
ali carbon and gum from piston ring grooves,
using a ring groove cleaning íool or broken
piston ring (Figure S).
To remove piston rings, it ís only necessary
to sprcad the top ring carefully with a thumb on
each end (Figure 6), then remove it over the top
of the pisíon. When installing rings, be sure that
the ends of the rings engage the locating pins in
their grooves (Figure 7).
Finally, scrape ali carbon deposits from each
cylinder exhaust port (Figure 8). A blunted
screwdriver is a suitable tool for this job.
Be sure to lubricate cylinders and pistons Servicing Breaker Poluís
liberally before assembly. Refer to Chapter Normal use of motorcycle causes íhe breaker
Three for details. points to gradually become pitted and worn. To
12 CHAPTER TWO
WARNING
Do not use a flammable substance
Locating pi n such as gasoline or lacquer thinner to
Piston ring clean poluís. Excess cleaner may get
trapped behind and below the breaker
plate. When the enginc cover is re-
placed, sparks from the breaker points
will ignite the trapped fumes and cause
an explosion.
Piston ring Close the points on a piece of clean white

paper such as a business card. Continue to pull
the card through the closed points until no
paríicles or discoloration remains on the card.
Finally, rotate the engine and observe the points
as they open and close. If they do not meet
WRONG squarely, replace them (Figure 9).
Incorrect
maintain peak ignitíon efficiency, breaker points
must be serviced regularly. Do not attempt to After the points have been dressed and
file or dress factory Suzuki ignition points. They cleaned, they must be adjusted. See Figure 10.
have a special hardened contact surface that will 1. Rotate the engine until the points for the
be destroyed if filed or sanded. Pitted points center cylinder are open to their widest distance
must be replaced. apart. Marks (C), (L), and (R) by each set of
Oil or dirt may get on the points, resulting in points identify points for center, left, and right
premature failure. Common causes for this con- cylinders.
dition are defective crankshaft seals, improper 2. Loosen íhe center breaker point attaching
breaker cam lubrication, or lack of care when screw (A) slightly, só that the stationary point
the crankcase cover is removed. may be moved with a screwdriver in pry
If poínt springs are weak, breaker points will slots (B).
bounce and cause misfiring aí high speeds. 3. Insert a clean 0.014 in. (0.35mm) feeler
Clean and regap breaker points every 2,000 gauge into the opening between the points.
miles (3,000 km). To clean the points, spray Move the stationary point só that there is barely
with a non-flammable contact cleaner available perceptible drag on the feeler gauge as it is
at most auto parts stores or motorcycle shops. pulled out from between íhe points. Be sure that
no oil or grease is transferred to the points from system is installed when ordering ignition sys-
the feeler gauge. tem componenís.
4. Tighten point attaching screw (A), then re- To remove and replace breaker points in
check the adjustment. either system, proceed as follows.
5. Apply a very small amount of distributor 1. Remove the breaker point attaching screw.
cam lubricant to the felt lubricator. A bead the 2. Remove both wires from the points.
size of a small match head is more than enough. 3. Clean the breaker cam thoroughly, then
6. Repeat Steps l through 5 for the remaining apply a very small quantity of breaker cam
cylinders. lubricant,
7. Ignítion timing is affected by any change in 4. Reverse the removal procedure to install new
point gap. Always adjust timing after servicing breaker points.
breaker points. 5. Be sure to adjust point gap and ignition
timing.
Replacing Breaker Points Certain special precautions must be taken on
Suzuki machines are equipped with either model GT380, since the breaker cam is driven
Kokusan or Denso ignition systems. Although by a nylon gear (Figure 13). Should it become
entire breaker assemblies are iníerchangeable, necessary to loosen the breaker cam nut, be sure
individual parts, such as breaker points, are not. to remove íhe right crankcase cover first. Failure
Therefore, it is necessary to identify the system to do só will probably resulí in a broken gear.
on the motorcycle in question. Figures 11 Two crankcase cover screws are under the con-
and 12 illustrate Kokusan and Denso systems, tact breaker plate, só the breaker plate must be
respectively. Be sure to specify which type of removed first. It is not necessary to remove the
KOKUSAN BREAKER ASSEMBLY
1. Conlací breaker
2. L H & R H point assembly
3. Center point assembly
4. LH condenset
5. Center condenser
6. RH condensGr
7. Contact breaker cam
8. Screw
9. Lockwasher
10. Washer
n
s
PKRIODIC MAINTENANCE 15
DENSO BREAKER ASSEMBLY
1. Contact breakerassembly 12. Screw 23. Igniíion coíl assembly

2. Cam 13. Screw 24. Lockwasher
3. Contact point shift plate 14. Washer 25. Bolt
4. Screw 15. Lockwasher 26. Breakcr cam shaft
5. Breaker stator assembly 16. Washer 27. Bearing
6. Lead wire clamp 17. Lockwasher 28. Circlip
7. Condenser 18. Nut 29. Pin
8. Screw 19. Breaker lead wire clamp 30. Breaker cam shaft oil seal
9. Point assembly 20. Breaker lead wire clamp 31. Breaker cam shaft spacer
10. Point screw 21. Lead wire plate 32. Breaker cam shaft 0-rÍng
11. Point assembly 22. Ignitiontiming plate 33. Breaker cam shaftrubbcr
16 CHAPTER TWO
GT380 BREAKER ASSEMBLY
Camshaft driuen gear (Nylon)
brcaker cam and timing plaíe before crankcase faces and rubbing blocks, affects ignition timing.
cover removal. To adjust timing on these models, proceed as
To reinstall the right crankcase cover, pró- follows.
ceed as follows. If these síeps are not followed
NOTE: If is importam that left cylin-
exactly, it will not be possible to .set ignition der timing be adjusted first, bccause
timing. any adjustment to ií affects bolh other
1. Align the punched mark on the breaker cam cylinders also.
shaft drive gear with íhe alignmení mark on the
crankshaft setíing plate. 1. Insert a dial gauge into the left cylinder spark
plug hole (Figure 14).
2. Align the red line by the (L) timing mark on
the timing plate with the alignment mark on the 2. Slowly rotate the engine in its normal run-
right crankcase cover. ning direction until the left piston is at top dead
center, as determined by the dial gauge.
3. Be sure the alignment pin on the crankcase
matches the hole on the crankcase cover. 3. Set the dial indicator to zero.
4. Rotate the engine in reverse to lower the
piston about 1A in. (6mm).
Ignition Timing 5. Connecí a test lamp, buzzer, or other con-
Any change in point gap, including that which tinuity tester across íhe points for the left
results from normal wear of breaker point sur- cylinder.
PERIODIC MAINTENÁNCE 17
tact mounting plate (B) to advance or retard

timing. Timing is advanced when the plate is
moved opposite breaker cam rotation. Tighten
the screws and recheck the adjustment.
a
8. Repeat Steps l through 7 for each remaining
cylinder, by loosening screws (D) or (E), and
moving breaker plates (F) or (G) as applicable.
Note thaí on GT750 models, timing is different
for the ceníer cylinder.
Air Cleaner
6. Slowly rotate íhe engine in iís normal run-
The air cleaner filters abrasive paríicles from
ning direction until the timing tester or con-
air on its way to íhe engine. If íhe air cleaner
:inuity checker indicates that íhe points open at
becomes clogged, power drops and fuel con-
:he distance below top dead center specified
in Table 3. sumpíion increases. Remove dirí from the air
cleaner by brushing or blowing with an air hose.
Ncver operate the bike withoul an air cleaner.
NOTE: On GT380 models, it is very Since fuel and air pass through íhe crankcase,
importaní íhat lhe engine be íitrned by dirí drawn in may damage crankshaft and con-
the allernator bolt on the Icft side of
necíing rod bearings in only a few miles.
the engine. This procedure ensures that
any slack íhat exists between brcaker
cam drivc gcars is taken up. Oil Pump Adjusíment
Oil pump adjustment is similar for íhe various
Table 3 IGNITION SPECIFICATIONS models. Be sure ío follow íhe procedure exactly.
in. (mm) 1. Remove alignment hole plug from the right
Breaker point gap 0.014 (0.35) carburetor (Figure 16).
Spark pluggap 0.028 (0.7)
Ignition timing (distance BTDC)

GT380 J, K 0.117 (2.99)*
0.115 (2.93)'::;::
GT3SO L 0.094 (2.40)
GT380 M 0.090 (2.30)*
0.088 (2.25)** Aligning hole
GT380 A, B 0.082 (2.09)*

0.080 (2.05)"*
GTS 50 0.132 (3.37)
GT750 J, K, L, M 0.143 (3.64)*
0.134 (3.42) —
GT750 A, B 0.142 (3.63)*
0.134 (3.42)::=::: 2. Remove oil pump cover.
Righí and left cylinders Center cylinder 3. Turn throttle grip until mark on throttlc
slide is at the top of the hole.
7. If the points do not open at the specified 4. Loosen pump cable adjuster locknut, then
distance, refer to Figure 15. Slightly loosen turn cable adjuster until the line on the oil pump
iiming plate screws (A), then move breaker con- aligns with mark (Figure 17) on the oil pump.
18 CHAPTER TWO
IERIODIC MAINTENANCE
5. Release the throttle, tighten pump cable lock- Carburetor Synchronization

-ut, then recheck adjustment. Power output will be unbalanced unless ali
-". Replace alignment hole cover screw. cylinders are synchronized. If one cylinder re-
ceíves more fuel/air mixture from its associated
VM Carburetor Adjustment
carburetor than the other cylinders, overall
poor performance will result. To synchronize
Begin carburetor adjustment by turning in the carburetors, proceed as follows.
each ídle mixture screw until it seats lightly, then 1. Remove the screw from the alignment hole
rurn it out the number of turns specified in in each carburetor.
Table 4. At higher altitudes, above approxi-
-ately 3,000 feet (1,000 meters), back out each 2. Open the throttle approximately halfway,
ícrew an addítional turn. until the alignment mark (Figure 18) one one
cylinder is even with the top edge of the inspec-
Table 4 IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT tion hole. Hold the throttle grip in this position.
3. Turn the cable adjusters on the 2 remaming
Model Turns
carburetors só that the alignment marks occupy
GT3SO the same relative posiíion as that of the refer-
GT550 J, K ence carburetor.
GT550(allothers)
4. Return the throttle to idle position. Be sure
GT750 J, K
that there is at least 0.04 in. (Imm) play in the
throttle cable at each carburetor.
GT750 L l/4
5. Install each alignment hole cover screw.
GT750 M, A, B 3/4
6. Finally, adjust throttle cable play at the
throttle grip. Turn the adjuster to provide 0.04-
NOTE: Tolerance for adjustments is VA. turn.
Adjust for smoothest itlle. 0.08 in. (l-2mm) slack in the cable, measured
at the throttle grip. This adjustment may affect
Turn each throttle cable adjuster to pro- oil pump adjustment, só be sure to readjust the
vide 0.1-0.2 in. (3-5mm) play in each throttle oil pump lever cable if necessary.
:able. There is an adjuster at the top of each
ISS 40 Carburctor Adjustment
:arburetor.
The simplest method for adjusting each car- If the carburetor hás been disassembled, as
buretor idle speed screw is to start the engine, afíer overhaul, perform Steps l through 15. If
•varm it for a few minutes, then stop it and dis- just routine adjustment is rcquired, as during
connect ali but one spark plug lead. Restart the engine tune-up, perform Steps 4 through 15.
ingine, then very slowly reduce idle speed by 1. Turn throttle valve adjustment screw (l,
turning the idle speed screw until the engine Figure 19) until throttle butterfly valve (2, Fig-
just dies. Repeat this procedure with each re- ure 20) aligns with edge of No. l bypass hole
maining cylinder. Reconnect the spark plug (l, Figure 20).
.eads, then screw equally to achíeve the idle 2. Gently turn each idle mixture screw until it
speed specified in Table 5. bottoms lightly, then back it out as specified
Table 5 IDLE SPEED SCREW ADJUSTMENT in Table 4.
3. Refer to Figure 21. Turn cable adjuster (1)
Model Idle Speed to provide about 0.1-0.2 in. (2-3mm) side play
GT350 1,100 rpm under Hght finger pressure to throttle cables. Be
GT550 1,100 rpm sure to tighten ali locknuts.
GT750 1,000 rpm 4. Start engine and warm it thoroughly.
NOTE: Spark plugs In nonfiring cylinders may become fouled
5. Turn throttle valve stop screw (l, Figure 22)
during this procedure. Clean them if this situatlon occurs. until engine runs at approximately 3,000 rpm.
20 CHAPTER TWO
íl n fl n fl r
Approx. 0.04 in. (Imm)
Cabie adjuster
Alígníng mark
Aligning hole
1. Tlirottlo valve acljustment screw 2. Throttle valve lever
_J
1. Throttle cable adjuster

2. Pulley
3. Cable end
4. Throttle valve stop screw
BS CARBURETOR
1. Throttle valve stop screw 10. Pilot screw 18. Mainjeí

2. Bracket 11. FUGI strainer 19. Float
3. Mixing chamber top 12. Valve seat 20. Needle jet
4. Piston valve spring 13. Needle valve 21. Pilot jet
5. Jet needle set plate 14. Float arm pin 22. Throttle valve
6. Jet needle 15. Float chamber gasket 23. Starter plunger
7. Piston valve 16. Float chamber 24. Fuel hose
8. Starterrod 17. Drain plug 25. Pulley
9. Choke lever
22 CHAPTER TWO
Do not confuse this screw with individual screws tained in Chapter Five. Briefly, the following
on carburetors. iíems should be attend to regularly.
NOTE: // /ó' necessary to ínitially set 1. Tesí state of charge. Recharge if at half
idlc aí approximatdy 3,000 rpm to charge (l .220 specific gravity) or less.
enable engine to run on only onc cyl- 2. Add distilled water if required.
incler for the remainder of the adjitst-
tncnt procedurc. 3. Clean battery top.
4. Clean and tighten terminais.
6. Stop engine and remove left and center spark
plug wires.
Dríve Chain
7. Start engine and adjust throttle valve stop
screw on right cylinder (4, Figure 21) until Inspect the drive chain periodically. Pay par-
engine idles at 1,000 rpm. ticular attention to rollers and link plates. Re-
place the chain if there is any doubt about its
8. Stop engine and disconnect right spark plug
condition. Adjust chain play to 0.6-0.8 ín.
wire. Connecí center spark plug wire.
(15-20mm).
9. Start engine and adjust throttle valve ad- Refer to Chapter Seven for further details on
justmení screw (l, Figure 19) on ceníer carbu- drive chain service.
retor until engine idles at 1,000 rpm.
10. Stop engine and disconnect center spark
Electrical Equipment
plug wire. Connect left spark plug wire.
11. Start engine and adjust throttle valve ad- Check ali electrical equipment. Refer to
justment screw ( l , Figure 19) on left carburetor Chapter Five for electrical system service.
until engine idles at 1,000 rpm.
12. Stop engine and connect right and center Fuel Straincr
spark plug wires. Remove and clean the fuel strainer element.
13. Start engine. Engine speed will be approx- Be sure that the fuel petcock does not leak. Dirty
imately 3,000-4,000 rpm. fuel strainers are a major cause of carburetor
14. Turn throttle valve stop screw (4, Fig- fiooding.
ure 21) until engine idles at J ,000 rpm.
15. Checfc oil pump adjustment and readjust Othcr Service Items
if necessary. Go over íhe entire bike carefully, examining
it for loose spokes, bení wheels, oil leaks, or
Baffcry Service anything else which conld result in unsafe riding
Time-up time is also baítery service time. conditions or cause major problems later. Cor-
Complete battery service information is con- rect any such condition at once.
CHAPTER THREE
ENGINE, TRANSMISSION, AND CLUTCH
Thís chapter describes remova], disassembly,

íervice, and reassembly of the enginc, transmis-
sion, and clutch. It is suggested that the engine
be serviced without removing it from the chassis
:xcept for overhaul of the crankshaft assembly,
:ransmission, gearshift mechanism, or bearings.
Dperating principies of two-stroke engines are
_!so discussed in this chapter.
ENGINE PRINCIPLES
Figures l íhrough 4 illustrate operation of the
r.vo-stroke engine. During this discussion, as-
-ume that the crankshaft is rotating counter-
;Iockwise. In Figure l, as the piston traveis
iownward, a scavenging port (A) between the
:rankcase and the cylinder is uncovered. The
sxhaust gases, which are under pressurc, leave
lhe cylinder through the exhaust port (B), which
:s also opened by the downward movement of moves upward, closing the exhaust and scaveng-
the piston. A fresh fuel/air chargc, which hás ing ports. As the piston continues upward, the
previously been compressed slightly, traveis air/fuel mixturc in the cylinder is compressed.
from the crankcase (C) to the cylinder through Notice also that a low pressure área is crcatcd in
the scavenging port (A) as the port opens. Since the crankcase at the same time. Further upwtird
the incoming charge is under pressure, it rushes movement of the piston uncovers the intake port
into the cylinder quickly and helps to expel the (D). A fresh fuel/air charge is thcn drawn into
sxhaust gases from the previous cycle. the crankcase through the intake port bccausc of
Figure 2 illustrates the next phase of the cycle. the low pressure created by the upward piston
As the crankshaft continues to rotate, the piston movement.
24 CHAPTER THREE
The third phase is shown in Figure 3. As the Tt can be seen from the foregoing discussion
piston approaches top dead center, the spark that every downward stroke of the piston is a
plug fires, igniting the compressed mixture. The power stroke. Three-cylinder engines are só ar-
piston is then driven downward by the expand- ranged that one cylinder fires for each 120 de-
ing gases. grees rotation of the crankshaft, thus producing
three power strokes for each crankshaft revolu-
tion.
ENGINE LUBRICATION
A conventional two-stroke engine cannot re-
ceive its lubrication from an oil supply in the
crankcase. Oil splash in the crankcase would be
carried into the cylinders with the fuel/air
charge, resulting in high oil consumption and
spark plug fouling. To overcome this objection,
Suzuki íhree-cylinder engines utilize an engine-
driven oil pump to deliver lubricating oil under
pressure to the crankshaft bearings and to the
lower connectíng rod bearings and cylinder
walls. The output from the pump is controlled
not only by engine speed, but also by throttle
position, which is closely related to engine load.
When the top of the piston uncovers the ex- Therefore, the engine is supplied with íhe proper
haust port, the fourth phase begins, as shown in amount of oil under ali operating conditions.
Figure 4. The exhaust gases leave the cylinder Figure 5 illusíraíes a typical oil distribution
through the exhaust port. As the piston continues system.
downward, the iníake port is closed and the A further refinement is Suzuki Recycle In-
mixture in the crankcase is compressed in prep- jectionSystem (SRIS). SeeFigure 6. Thepurpose
aration for the next cycle. of this system is to reduce exhaust smoke.
C8 l D . i-t ; CP M* »4 C* ** T « U* >i CO CI> l
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

26 CHAPTER THREE
Small quantities of oil accumulaíc in each crank

chambcr during normal use of thc motorcycle.
Positive prcssure in cach crank chamber forces
any accumulatcd oil through a check valve into
thc induction tract of another cylinder.
OIL PUMP
Figure 7 (next page) illustrates a typical oil
pump. Tiie pump is driven by gears, só that it
operates at ali times when lhe engine is runníng. - Aligning hole
Never aítempt to disassemble the oil pump. Re-
place the pump in the event of any rnalfunction.
Oil Pump Adjustment

Oil pump adjustment is similar for the various
models. Be sure to follow the procedure exactly.
1. Remove the aligning hole plug frorn the right
carburetor (Figure 8).
2. Turn the throttle grip uníil the mark on the
throttle slide is at íhe top of the hole (Figure 9).
OIL PUMP CONSTRUCTION
1. Oil pump botíy 5. Purnp valva

2. Pump control body 6. Cam guide
3. Control cam 7. Plunger
4. Plunger ho!e S. Spring
28 CHAPTER THRE1
4. Release the throttle, tighten the pump cabl

lock nut, then recheck the adjustment.
5. Replace the alignment hole cover screw.
BIccding the Oil Pump

Air enters the oil pump and lines wheneve
the pump is disconnccted or the tank hás rui
dry. After such an occurrence, the oil pump mus
be bled.
To bleed air from the inlet side, loosen thi
blecder screw (Figure 11), until oil flows freely
with no air bubbles. Then tighten the screw.
After the inlet Une is bled, start the engim
3. Remove oil pump cover, and loosen íhe
and run it at 1,500 to 2,000 rpm. Hold the pumf
pump cable adjuster lock nut. Turn the cable
control lever in the full open position by hand
adjuster uníil the line on the oil pump lever
untii ali air is bled from the outlet tubes. If an;
aligns with the mark (Figure 10) on oil pump.
bubbles longer than 0.4 inch (10 millimeters'
appear, stop the engine, then force a smal
amount of oil into the outlet tubes at the checl
valves, as shown in Figure 12. Check the con-
nections at inlet and discharge ports, the viny"
tubes, and plunger housing. If the bubbles dis-
appear when oil or grease is applied to these
points, air leakage is occurring.
Check Valves
Check valves prevent oil from flowing back
into the pump as a result of pressure in the
i
CHAPTER THREE
4. Release the throttle, tighten the pump cable

lock nut, then recheck the adjustment.
5. Replace the alignment hole cover screw.
Bleeding the Oil Pump

Air enters the oil pump and lines whenever
the pump is disconnected or the tank hás run
dry. After such an occurrence, the oil pump must
be bled.
To bleed air from the inlet side, loosen the
bleeder screw (Figure 11), until oil flows freely,
with no air bubbles. Then tighten the screw.
After the inlet line is bled, start the engine
3. Remove oil pump cover, and loosen the
and run it at 1,500 to 2,000 rpm. Hold the pump
pump cable adjuster lock nut. Turn the cable
control lever in the full opcn position by hand,
adjuster until lhe line on the oil pump lever
until ali air is bled from the outlet tubes. If any
aligns with the mark (Figure 10) on oil pump.
bubbles longer than 0.4 ineh (10 millimeters)
appear, stop the engine, then force a small
amount of oil into the outlet tubes at the check
valves, as shown in Figure 12. Check the con-
nections at inlet and discharge ports, the vinyl
tubes, and plunger housing, If the bubbles dis-
appear when oil or grease is applied to these
points, air leakage is occurring.
Check Valves
Check valves prevent oil from flowing back
into the pump as a result of pressure in the
the steps carefully and follow those which apply

to your engine.
ENGINE REMOVAL
The procedurc for removing the engine is
generally similar for ali models. The following
steps are set forth as a guide:
Models GT380 and GT550

1. If the engine runs, start it and allow it to run
for a few minutes to warm the transmission oil.
Then stop the engine and drain the oil.
2. Turn the fuel petcock to OFF. On models with
automatic fuel cocks. turn the lever to ON.
3. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel cock.
If the machine hás an automatic fuel cock, dis-
connect ali línes (Figure 13) from the fuel cock.
;rankcase. Pour about 0.3 ounce (10 cubic

centimeters) of oil into the check valve mounting
hole before you install the check valve. Do not
.ittempt to disassemble the check valves.
Engine Oil
Do not mix brands or types of engine oil.
Sslect a good brand of 2-cycle oil and stick with
i:. Some types, particularly synthetics, are not
compatible with those having a mineral oil base. 4. Remove the rubber fuel tank retaining strap,
then lift off the fuel íank (Figure 14).
PREPARATION FOR ENGINE
DISASSEMBLY
l. Thoroughly clean the engine exterior of dirt,
3Í1, and foreign material, using one of the clean-
:rs formulated for the purpose.
Z. Be sure you ha vê the proper tools for the job.
Soe General Information in Chapter One.
5. As you remove parts from the engine, place
:hem in trays in the order of their disassembly.
Doing só will make reassembly faster and easier,
_nd will ensure correct installation of ali engine
parts.
4. Note that disassembly procedures vary slight- 5. Disconnect the battery leads (Figure 15).
lv between the various models. Be sure to read 6. Remove ali spark plug wires (Figure 16).
30 CHAPTER THREE
7. Disconnecí the wiring to the breaker con-

tacts (Figure 17).
8. Remove rear stop light switch (Figure 18).

9. Disconnect the tachometer cable (Figure 19).
10. Disconnect íhe starter cable at terminal "M"
at the starter relay (Figure 20).
11. Disconnecí alternaíor wiring (Figure 21).
12. Disconnect the oil pump control cable (Fig-
ure 22). Figure 23 illustraíes the procedure for
releasing the pump wire. loss of oil. A tire valve cap is a suitable plug.
13. Remove oil line at the oil tank (Figure 24). 14. Loosen the righí footrest and rear brake
Be sure to plug the oil tank outlet to prevent lever, then remove the brake pedal (Figure 25).
15. Remove the air cleaner (Figure 26).

16. Remove ali three carburetors (Figure 27).
17. Remove the gearshift pedal (Figure 28).
CABLE END PIECE
18. Remove the left footrest (Figure 29).

19. Remove clutch release cover (Figure 30).
20. Remove engine sprocket cover (Figure 31).
21. Remove three bolts, then rotate engine
sprocket reíainer slightly and remove it from the
output shaft (Figure 32).
22. Remove the engine sprocket (Figure 33).
23. Remove both of the cylínder head covers
(Figure 34).
32 CHAPTER THR
24. Remove both rear footrests (Figure 35).

25. Remove both outer mufflers and exhaust
pipes (Figure 36).
ÍÍT *
26. Loosen íwo connectors (Figure 37), the

pull both center muíflers backwards.
27. Remove the conter j\n:iu-t îre 'Figure 38
29. Remove engine mounting plate (Figure 41).

30. Make a final check of the engine for any
attachments which miqht have been missed.
31. Straddle the motorcycle, then lift the en-

gine and pull ií out from the right side of the
frame (Figure 42).
IS. Remove the four enginc mount bolís (Fig-

•re 39) on model GT550, or the íhrce bolts
Figure 40) on model GT380.
Model GT750
Engine removal is generally similar to that
describcd in thc foregoing stcps, with thc follow-
ing additions:
1. Drain thc cooling systcm by rcmoving thc
drain plug (1), shown in Figure 43.
2. Disconnect the radiator inlet hose (sce
Figure 44).
3. Remove the fan, together with its bracket
(Figure 45).
CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder head may be removed for
service without removing íhc enginc, Ou model
GT750, thc cooling system musí be drained.
34 CHAPTER THREE
1. Waterdrain plug
GT550. Loosening and tightening sequence for

model GT750 are shown in Figure 47.
To install the cylinder head, run the nuts down
until they are snug, then tighten them in the
same order as they were loosened. Always use
a new gasket. Torque th e nuts as in Table l,
Table l CYLINDER HEAD NUT TORQUES
Torque
Model Pound-Fe«t Kilogram-centimeters
GT380 26 350
GT550 18-29 250-400
GT750 (Sm m) 13-16 180-220
(lOrnm) 22-29 300-400
Removing Carbon Deposits

Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber
result in an increase in compression ratio and
can cause preignition, overheating, and excessive
fuel consumption. To remove these deposits,
scrape them off with the rounded end of a hack-
saw blade or a screwdriver. Be careful that you
don't damage the gasket surface.
Checking Warpage
The cylinder head is subjected to vibration,
Removal and Installatíon pressure, and high temperature. These conditíons
Wait until the engine is cool before removing may result in warpage. To check for this con-
the cylinder head to avoid possible warpage. dition, lay a straightedge along the cylinder head
Then loosen and remove the cylinder head nuts at each location shown in Figure 48. Measure
in proper sequence. Figure 46 shows loosening clearance between the straightedge and cylinder
and tightening sequence for models GT380 and head with a feeler gauge. Repair or replace.the
CYLINDERS
Cylinders are made of aluminum alloy. On
models GT380 and GT550, they are mounted
individually. Cylinders on model GT750 are
combined into one casting. After wear from
long usage or damage from piston seizure, the
cylinders may be bored and honed.
Cylinder Rcmovnl
Remove and tag each SRIS tube. Remove the
cylinder retaining nuts (Figure 49). Tap the
cylinder around the exhaust ports with a plasíic
mallet, then pull it away from the crankcase.
;ylinderhead if íhat poríion of the cylinder head

"hat covers any one cylinder is warped more than
-.012 inch (0.03 miílimeter), or if warp exceeds
1.06 inch (0.15 miílimeter) for the whole unit.
If warpage is found, it may be possible to
salvage the cylinder head. Fasten a sheet of No.
130 emery paper to a surface plate, then move
Í!e head back and forth until the gasket surface
.'í no longer warped. Finish the job with No. 400
;mery paper. Do not take oíí any more metal
:han is necessary. Clean íhe cylinder head care-
rjlly after you finish.
36 CHAPTER THREE
Stuff clean rags into the crankcase openings to

prevent entry of any foreign material.
Checking the Cylinders
Measure cylinder wall wear at the locatkms
shown in Figure 50 with a cyUnder gauge or
inside micrometer, as shown in Figure 51. Posi-
tion the instrument parallel and then at right
angles to the crankshaft at each measuremenl
depth. If the difference between any 2 measure-
ments exceeds the service limit (Table 2),
replace or rebore the cylinder. Oversize pistons
are available,
Table 2 CYLINDER SERVICE LIMITS
If the cylinder is to be rebored, first add the
Service Limit desired oversize to the standard cylinder bore.
Model Inch (Millimeter) The total will be the diameter to which the
cylinder should be bored and honed. After bor-
GT380 0.0039 (0.10)
GT550 0.0039 (0.10) ing and honing, the difference between maximum
GT750 0.0018 (0.07) and minimum diameters should not be more than
0.0004 inch (0.01 millimeter).
l
It is essential that the sharp edges of the The rounded end of a hacksaw blade is a suitable
-/.inder parts be broken to prevent rapid piston tool for carbon removal.
-g wear and noise. Chamfer the edges as
: own in Figure 52, using a file or hand grínder. Cylinder Installation
Be sure that each piston ring end gap is
Removing Carbon Deposits aligned with the locating pin in the ring groove.
Scrape the carbon deposits from around the Lubricate the piston and cylinder, then insert
jvlinder exhaust port, as shown in Figure 53. the pisíon into the lowcr end of the cylinder. It
Unit: mm
0.3-0.5 0.3mm = .012 in.
0.4mm — .016 in.
O.Smm — .020 in.
0.7mrn = .026 in.
l.Omm = .039in.
1-1.5 1.5mm = .059 in.
38 CHAPTER THREE
will be necessary to compress each piston ring rection, another seizure will develop. To correct
as it goes into the cylinder. Always use a new this condition, lightly smooth the affected área
cylinder base gasket upon reassembly. Use no with No. 40 emery paper or a fine oilstone
sealer on the cylinder base gasket.
PISTON PIN, PISTON,

AND PISTON RINGS
Piston Pin
Remove the clips at each end of the piston
pin (Figure 54). Then press out the piston pin.
It is easier to press out piston pins if the pistons
are first beated by wrapping them in rags which
have been soaked in hot water.
J
(Figure 56). Repíace the piston if it is deeply
scratched.
Examine thc piston pin for scratches or wear.

To chcck thc bearing for wear, insert the bearing Piston clearance is the difference betvveen the
into thc small end of a new connecting rod, then maximum piston diameíer and the minímum
insert a new piston pin into the bearing. Rcplace cylinder diameíer. Measure thc outside diameter
thc bearing if radial clearance is excessivo. of the pisíon skirt (Figure 57) at right angles to
Typical standard clearances are 0.00012 to the piston pin. Tablc 3 specifies the distance
0.00086 ínch (0.003 to 0.022 millimeter). Any from the bottom of the písíon skirt (Figure 58)
clearance over 0.0018 inch (0.045 millimeter) at which the measurement should be made.
should bc considercd excessive.
Table 3 PISTON CLEARANCE
Piston Distance
Scrapc the carbon from the head of the piston Model Inch (Millimeter)
(Figure 55). Then clcan ali carbon and gum GT380 1.02 (26)
from íhe piston ring grooves using a broken GTS 50 1.14 (29)
piston ring, or a ring groove cleaning tool. Any GT750 1.26 (32)
deposíts left in the grooves will cause the rings
to stick, thereby causing gás blowby and loss
of power. Tnstall the pisíon with the arrow mark (Fig-
A piston showing signs of seizure will result ure 59) pointing toward the front of the rnachine.
in noise, loss of power, and damage to the cylin- This is important because the hole for the piston
der wall. If such a piston is reused wiíhout cor- is offset slightly to prevent piston slap.
Piston Rings
Suzuki three-cylinder machines are equipped
with keystone pistons and rings. A sectional view
of a keystone ring is shown in Figure 60. The
design of the keystone ring uses combustion gás
pressure to force the ring outward against the
cylinder wall.
UPWARD
An important advantage of the keystone ring

is illustrated in Figure 61. As the piston moves
up and dovvn, the piston ring moves inward and
outward, thus varying ring groove clearance.
This varying clearancc tcnds to prcvcnt the ring
t from sticking in its groove.
EXHAUST INLET
SIDE SIDE Carbon
40 CHAPTER THREE
To remove the piston rings, spread the top

ring with a thumb on each end, as shown in
Figure 62, then remove the ring from the top.
Repeat thís procedure for the remainíng ring,
Be careful só that you don't brcak or damage the
rings, or damage the pisíon.
rings carefully with your thumbs, just enough

to slip them over the piston. Align the end gaps
with the locaíing pin in each ring groove, as
shown in Figure 62. Be sure that any markings
are upward.
Measure ring groove side clearance, using a
Measure each ring for wcar as shown in feeler gauge (Figure 65). Replace the piston
Figures 63 and 64. Inscrt the ring approximately
and/or the piston ring if side clearance exceeds
0.2 inch (5 millimeters) into the cylinder, then 0.006 inch (0.15 millimeter).
measurc the gap wiíh a feeler gauge. To ensure
that the ring is inserted squarely into the cylin-
dcr, push ií into position with the head of the
piston, If either ring gap cxceeds the wear limit
(Table 4), replacc both ríngs.
Table 4 RING GAP
Wcar Limit Standard Ring Gap

Mo dei Inch (Millimeter) Inch (Millimeter)
GT3SO 0.006-0.014 (0.15-0.35) 0.039 (1.0)

GT550 0.006-0.014 (0.15-0.35) 0.039 (1.0)
GT750 0,006-0.014 (0.15-0.35) 0.027 (0.7)
When you replace the rings, first install íhe

lower one, then the upper one. Use a pair of
piston ring pliers, if available. If not, spread the CLUTCH
Ali models are equipped with wet multidisc
clutches. A handlebar lever controls the clutch.
Clutch Operation
Figure 66 is a sectional view of a typical clutch
assembly, showing alternating cork and steel
plates. The cork plates are splined to the engine
shaft and always rotate with the shaft. When the
hand lever is released, clutch springs press the
steel and cork plates together, thereby trans-
mitting engine torque to íhe transmission. As the
TYPICAL CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Clutch pressure disc

Clutch drive plate
r\y driven
gear bushing
Clutch release inner
bali guide
Clutch release adjust

nut
Clutch
release shaft
\)ilseal
Clutch release outer

bali guide
Clutch release arm
•fesasJ- Clutch sleeue hub Clutch spring

42 CHAPTER THREE
rider pulls in the hand lever, the push crown

presses against the pressure plaíe and compressos
the clutch springs. When the springs are com-
pressed, pressure is removed from the cork and
steel plates, which then separatc and interrupt
power transmission.
Clutch Removal
Clutch removal and disassembly procedurcs
vary between difTcrent models. Be sure to follow
the correct proccdurc.
Modela GT380 and GT550

\ Remove the righí crankcase cover. See
Figure 67.
STARTER
CLUTCH
GEAR
2. Remove the pressure plate (Figure 68), then

each clutch plate.
\. Figure 72 is an exploded
clutch on models GT380 and GT550.
Model GT750
1. Refer to Figure 73. Remove the clutch in-
spection cap, then loosen both shaftnuts (1) and
3. Flatten the lockwasher (Figure 69), then hold remove the clutch lever (2).
the clutch hub and remove its retaining nut 2. Remove the clutch cover (3).
(Figure 70). 3. Refer to Figure 74. Remove six nuts, then
4. PulI off the clutch housing. On model GT550, remove the pressure plate (1) and release
remove the staríer clutch together with the clutch shaft (2).
housing (Figure 71). 4. Remove the steel and cork clutch plates.
44 CHAPTER THREE
o ^_, -—
m Ta fa
*- jc *-
Ia TD n
1. Shaftnut 2. Clutch lever 3. Cover
TO
O.
ra
§b
re
z
o
o J= H
1. Pfessure plate
o •s 2. Release shaft
Lfl s
* •»
n
5. Hold the clutch hub in position, then remove

•o its retaining nut,
C
(D
6. Refer to Figure 75. Remove the primary
00 gear spacer (1) and bushing (2) by pulling with
n
two bolts (3).
u
7. Remove the transmission oil reservoir plate.
8. Figure 76 (page 27) is an exploded view of
the clutch on model GT750.
Clutch Inspection
Measure the thickness of each drive plate in
(O l_
several places with calipers, as shown in Fig-
ure 77. Replace any plaíe which is worn un-
E E E
evenly, or worn or warped beyond the wear
limit. See Table 5.
Measure the thickness and warpage (Fig-
ure 78) of each steeí plaíe. Replace any plate
that is worn or warped beyond the repair limit.
1. Primary driven gearspacer

2. Bustiing
3. Bolis
Table 5 DRIVE PLATE THICKNESS
Model Standard Wear Limit Warpage

Inch Inch Inch
(Millimeters) {Millimeters) {Millimeters)
GT380 0.138 0.126 0.016

(3.5) (3.2) (0-4)
GT550 0.138 0.126 0.016
(3.5) (3.2) (0.4)
GT750 0.11-0.12 0.102 0.012
(2.93.1) (2.7) (0.3)
Measure free length of each clutch spring, as

shown in Figure 79. Tf any spring is shorter than
thc service limit (Tablc 6), replace ali springs.
Table 6 CLUTCH SPRING LENGTH
Model Standard Service Limit

Inches (Millimeters) Inches (Millimeters)
GT380 1.51 (38.4) 1.45 (36.9)

GT550 1.51 (38.4) 1.45 (36.9)
GT750 1.59 (40.4) 1.54 (39.0)
Inspect the primary gear teeth on the clutch

housing. Minor burrs may be smoothed with an
oilstone. Check for backlash between the
Ji.
c\0 CLUTC
1. Primary driven gear assembly

2. Washer
3. Spacer
4. Primary driven gear bushing
5. Clutch sleeve hub
6. Nut
7. Washer
8. Clutch drive plate
9. Clutch driven plate
10. Clutch pressuredisc
11. Bearing
12. Clutch spring
13. Bolt
14. Clutch spring washer
15. Clutch spring spacer
16. Shim
17. Clutch release shaft
18. Clutch release shaft oil seal
19. Clutch release outer bali guide
20. Clutch release bali
21. Clutch release inner bali guide
22. Clutch release arm
n
23.
24.
25.
Nut
Washer
Screw
ss
26. Clutch release return spring
27. Clutch oil reservoir plate
PS
H
tNGINE, TRANSMISSION, AND CLUTCH 47
1. On model GT550, be sure that the washer

and spacer (Figure 80) are assembled correctly.
2. On model GT550, assemble the starter clutch
and primary gear together before installing
them.
3. The ends of the clutch release rods go toward
the clutch.
Clutch Adjustment
Normal use of the clutch causes wear of the
clutch plates and clutch cable. Thereforc clutch
adjustment is required from time to time. Clutch
adjustment procedures differ slightly among the
various models, só be sure to read the instruc-
r-.r.ary gears. Backlash greatcr than 0.006 inch tions carefully.
r ". 5 millimeter) should be considered excessive.
Check for worn splines in the clutch hub. If Model GT380
r-i splines are worn, clutch plates may stick 1. Refer to Figure 81. Loosen lock rmt "A".
ir L result in abrupt or rough clutch action.
2. Turn in screw "B" until it bottoms against the
Theck the release mechanism for wear or
pushrods, then back it off one-quarter turn.
« • -s^ness. If damage or excessive wear exists,
-rr*ace the entire release assembly. Be sure that 3. Tighten lock nut "A".
r :- pushrods are not bent. 4. Loosen clutch cable lock nut "a".
5. Turn cable adjuster "b" until there is about
Ootch Installation 0.16 inch (4 millimeters) play at the handlebar
R^verse the removal procedure to install the lever (Figure 82).
; _:ch. Observe íhe following notes: 6. Tighten lock nut "a".
STARTER CLUTCH GEAR

PRIMARY GEAR
WASHER SPACER WASHER

48 CHAPTER THREE
Model GT750
l. Refer to Figure 84. Loosen cable adjuster
"A" until clutch cable "l" is slack.
A. Lock nut . Screw

a. Lock nut b. Cable adjuster
A. Cable adjuster 2. Double nuts

1. Clutch cable 3. ReSease shaft
r - 4jnm(0.16in)
2. Loosen and adjust double nuts "2" until
there is 0.008 inch (0.2 millimeter) end play in
release shaft "3"! Tighten both nuts and recheck
Môdel GT550 end play.
\ Refer to Figure 83. Be surc that thc end of 3. Retighten cable adjuster "A".
Lhe cluteh release lever aligns with the line on 4. Refer to Figure 85. Adjust cable adjuster "B"
the crankease. If not, correct its position by to provide 0.12 inch (3 millimeters) free-play at
removing íhe release lever and adjusting the the handlebar lever.
lever position as required.
2. Loosen lock nut "B". B. Cable adjuster
3. Turn in scrcw "C" until it seats lightly, then

back it off one-half turn.
PRIMARY PINION
4. Tighten lock nut "B".
5. Turn the cable adjuster at the handlebar Removal
lever (Figure 82) to provide 0.016 inch (4 milli- 1. Using ahammer and a blunted chisel, flatten
meters) free-play at the lever. the tab on the primary pinion lockwasher.
INGINE, TRANSMISSION, AND CLUTCH 49
- Hold the connecting rod in position with a

r!iíon holder, then loosen the pinion nut.
;. PulI the pinion from the shaft by hand.
-. Remove the woodruff key.
I-spection
Check the gear teeth for wear or damage.
vight roughness may be smoothed with an oil-
::ne. Replace the unit if damage cannot be
:r.oothed.
ínsíaUafion
r
4. Pull the upper crankcase half away, as shown
Reverse the removal procedure to install the in Figure 88. It may be necessary to tap the
-rimary pinion. Be sure to check backlash after projecting lugs lightly with a rubber mallet to
-.itallation, as described in the foregoíng break the halves apart.
:ction.
UPPEB CASE
CRANKCASE
Crankcases on ali models split into upper and
•.verhalves. Crankcase disassembly is required
r service on the crankshaft, bearings, trans-
~:ssion, and internai paris of the shifter and
tickstarter.
Disasscmbly
. There are numbers cast into the crankcase
• ilves by each crankcase bolt. Remove the lower
- r:ts (Figure 86) first, beginning with the highest Inspecfion
, then continue in descending order.
Inspcct the crankcase halves for damage, par-
ticularly aroimd the sealing surfaccs. Be sure
that ali lubricant passages are clcan and un-
obstructcd. Clean any gasket cement from the
mating surfaccs.
Reassembly
Reverse the disassembly procedure to as-
semble the crankcase halves. Pay particular
attention to the following points.
1. Apply a suitable gasket cement to the uppcr
crankcase half joining surfaccs, and allow the
cement to becomc tacky bcforc asscmbly.
2. Tap the uppermost crankcase half with a
1. Remove the upper crankcase bolts (Fig- soft mallet, if necessary, to fit the two halves
•re 87J. Begin with the highest number, then together. Be sure that the dowel pins are aligned.
r r n t i n u e in descending order. 3. Rotate íhe crankshaft and transmission shaft
'. Place the engine on a workbench with the by hand to check for smooth movemení. Do not
,:nnecting rods upward. proceed. if the shafts don't turn smoothly.
50 CHAPTER THREE
4. Tighten crankcase bolts first by running them

down snug, then tightening the upper ones in
the order marked. Repeat the procedure on the
lower bolts. Torque bolts. See Table 7.
Table 7 CRANKCASE BOLT TORQUES
Torque
Size Pound-feet (Kilogram-centimeters)
6 millimeter 4.4-7.2 (60-100)

8 millimeter 9.4-16.6 (130-230)
10 millimeter 18.1-28.9 (250-400)
NOTE: // model GT750 crankcase

halves are replaced, refer to special (Figure 90). To measure this distance, mount íhe
instriíctions in the transmission section crankshaft assembly in a suitable jig. Measure
of this book. the total travei (connecting rod shake) of the
upper end of the connecting rod as you move it
from side to side. Hold the big end of the rod
CRANKSHAFT to one side só that you don't mistake big end
The crankshaft operates under condítions of side play for wear. Repair or replace the crank-
hígh stress. Dimensional tolerances are criticai. shaft assembly if connecting rod shake exceeds
It is necessary to locate and correct crankshaft 0.12 inch (3.0 millimeters).
defects to prevent more serious trouble later.
Crankshaft Inspection
Mcasurc crankshaft alignment as shown in
Figure 89. Mount the crankshaft in a lathe,
V-blocks, or other suitable centering device.
Rotate the crankshaft through a complete revo-
lution and measure runout as shown by the dial
indicators. Measure runout at each end of the
crankshaft. Repaír or replace the crankshaft if
runout exceeds the repair limit (Table 8).
Table 8 CRANKSHAFT RUNOUT
Repair Llmit
Model Inch (Millimeter) Be sure that the connecting rods are not bent
or twisted. To check for bent connecting rods,
GT380 0.002 (0.05) assemble the crankcase, crankshaft, pistons, and
GT550 0.002 (0.05)
cylinders. Do not install piston rings. While turn-
GT750 0.003 (0.08)
ing the engine, check to be sure that each piston
is not pressed against either side of its cylinder.
To correct runout, tap the crank wheels with Be sure that ali crankshaft oil seals are in
a brass or lead mallet, as required. Check the good condition. Primary compression leakage
crankshaft assembly after each adjustment. will occur in the event of defective oil seals.
The simplest method for determining if there It is usually better to replace the crankshaft
is excessive wear in the connecting rod big end rather than to attempt repairs which require its
bearings is to measure the total distance that the disassembly. Special tools and alignment fixtures
connecting rod may be shaken from side to side are required.
51
ENGINE, TRANSMISSION, AND CLUTCH
Cnmkshaft Insfallation
Thoroughly clean and lubricate ali parts be-
•?re installation.
Z Be sure that ali oil seals are pushed as close
r the bearings as possible (Figure 91).
3 Pins on crankshaft bearings should be placed
• :he corresponding grooves in the lower crank-
c*e half (Figure 92).
Crankshaft CD
1. Puncti marks
orientation of each part. Figures 94A through

94F illustrate powcr flow in the various gears of
a typical transmission. Figures 95 (p. 56), 96
(pp. 57-58), and 97 (p. 59) are exploded vicvvs
of transmissions in models GT380, GT550, and
4 Punch marks (l) on bearings in model GT750 GT750, respcctívcly. Refer to thesc illustrations
--•: align with the crankcase mating surface during disassembly and rcasscmbly.
Figure 93).
Disassembly
Remove cach gear and bearing from the shafts
TRANSMISSION by removing the snap rings which rctain thcm.
Dperating and service procedures are similar Some gears, such as 2nd driven gear, may nave
- ali transmissions; differences are pointed out to be pressed from the shafí. Take particular care
»-;re the exist. During transmission disas- to observe the location and orientation of ali
mi-bly, take careful note of the location and small parts such as thrust washers.
Oil seal
52 CHAPTER THREE
'94)A
NEUTRAL
'94)B
FIRST GEAR
94)C
SECOND GEAR
94)D
THIRD GEAR
54 CHAPTER THREE
34)E
FOURTH GEAR
FIFTH GEAR
Inspecíion
Examine ali parts for wear or damage. Pay
._jse attention to the teeth on the dog clutches,
.hipped or damaged gear teeth, and wear in
,jar or shaft splines. Also check the bushings
:::cí bearings for wear. Measure clearance be-
.òeen the shift forks and the grooves. Replace
>.e gear and/or the fork if clearance exceeds
\332 inch (0.8 millimeter). Replace any other
orn or damaged parts. If any gear is replaced
::cause of worn or damaged teeth, it is good
-ractice to replace the mating gear also.
On model GT750, measure backlash between
.zears as shown in Figure 98. Replace gears with
replaced, note that 2 gears are supplied as
r^cklash greater than specified in Table 9.
replacemcnts. Each gear hás a painted mark on
Table 9 GEAR BACKLASH
it. There is also a painted spot on the sidc of thc
right lowcr crankcase. Sclect thc proper gear
Gear Backlash Limit according to Table 10.
Inch (Millimeter)
Table 10 GEAR IDENTIFICATION
Ist, 2nd, 3rd 0.002 (0.05)
Kíck gear 0.002 (0.05) C rã n kc a s e Ist Dríven 2nd Driven Kickstarter
Ali oihers 0.004 (0.10) Color Gear Gear Drive Gear
Brown
Black Yellow Yellow Brown
Red
Yellow
Yellow
Blue
Green White White Yellow
White
If it is necessary to press 2nd driven gear back

into position on niodels GT550 or GT750, note
that dimensions are criticai. Distancc between
Ist and 2nd gears on thc shaft must bc 4.488 to
4.492 inches (114.0 to 114.1 millimetcrs) for
model GT550, as shown in Figure 100. On
model GT750, distance between gears must be
4307 to 4.311 inches (109.4 to 109.5 milli-
On model GT750, measure shifter cam wear
meters), as shown in Figure 101. Apply thread
?y measuring its diameíer (Figure 99). Standard
lock cement to the bore in the gear beforc prcss-
iiameteris 1.768- 3.771 inches (44.90-44.98
ing it onto the shaft. Do not apply cement to
millimeters). Replace the cam if it is worn to
>ss than 1.760 inches (44.70 millimeters). the shaft.
Apply thread lock cement to ali threads.
Model GT750 crankcases, Ist driven, 2nd
::riven, and kickstarter drivc gears are selectively
ntted. If the crankcase is replaced, install the KICKSTARTER
which are supplied wíth it in place of those Three types of kickstarters are used, depend-
g. If any of the gears mentioned above are ing on engine size. Ali types have parts which
56 CHAPTER THREE
1380 TRANSMISSION W
Z
1. Countershaft
O
l—l
2. 2nddrívegear
14. Countershafí bearing
15. Countershaft C-ring
27. 4th driven gear thrust washer 40. Lockwasher •zH
28. Transmission shaft bushing 41. Engine sprocket
3. 3rd drive gear 16. Countersliaftreíainer
4. 4íh drive gear
5. 5ífi drivo gear
17. Driveshaft
29. Transmission shaft bearing
30. Transmission shaft bushing pin
42. Engine sprocket plate
43. Plate bolt
3
>
18. Ist dríven gear 31. Driveshafí retainer 2
44. Drive chain assembly
6. 6tíi dcive gear 19. 2nd driven gear ^
32. Retainer screw
7. 3rd drive gear circlip 20. 3rd dríven gear 33. Bearing
45. Chain joiní 2
*•<
46. Kickstarter idle gear c»
8. 3rd drive gear lockwasher 21. 4tb driven gear cn
34. Driveshaft oil seal 47. Kich idle gear thrust washer >•*
9. 6íh drive gear thrust wasner 22. 5th dríven gear O
35. Oil reservoir cup 48. Idle gear circlip
10. 6th drive gear thrust washer 23. Ist driven gear tlirust washer Z
36. Screw 49. Idle gear wave washer
11. 6th drive gear thrust washer 24. 4tíi driven gear RH washer
12. 6th drive gear íhrusí washer
37. Screw 50. Kickstarter driven gear
z
13. 6th drive gear bearing
25. 2nd driven gear ring
26. 2nd dríven gear circlip
38. Oilguideplaíe 51. Kickstarter driven washer o
39. Oil guide plate screw
C!
H
n
S
GT550 TRANSMISSION (See Diagram on Next Page)
1. Countershaft assembly 12. 3rd driven gear 23. Driveshaft RH bearing (1) 34. Screw
2. Countershaft 13. 4th driven gear 24. Driveshaft LH bearing (2) 35. Screw
3. 2nd drive gear 14- Sth driven gear 25. Countershaftbearing RH C-ring 36. Oil guíde plate
4. 3rd drive gear 15. Ist driven gear washer 26. Countershaft bearing LH C-ring 37. Oil guíde plate screw
5. 4th drive gear
16- 2nd clriven gear LH washer 27. Driveshaft bearing LH C-ring 38. Lockwasher
6. 5th drive gear 17- 3rd driven gear washer 28. Driveshaft bushing C-ring 39. Engine sprocket
7. 4th drive gear washer 18. Driven gearcirclíp 29. Driveshaft oíl seal 40. Engine sprocket p'aíe
8. 4th drive gear circlip 19. Countershaíí RH bearing 30. Driveshaft bushing dowel pin 41. Sprockei plate bolí
9. Driveshaft 20. Countershaft LH bearing 31. Countershaft oil reservar plug 42. Engine sprocket washer
10. Ist driven gear 21. Driveshaft RH baaring 32. Oil guide plale oil seal 43. Drive chain a
11. 2nd driven gear 22. Driveshaft bearing RH bushing 33. Oíl reservoir plate 44. Chain joirtt
58 CHAPTER THREE
32
GT750 TRANSMISSION
(See Key on Next Page)
60 CHAPTER THREE
._ ._ tr:
4.488 —4.492 in.
(114.0-114.1mm)
OJ
uo
nj
O.
(A
3
_O
V *: -K 4.307-4.311 in.
-(109.4 - 109.5mm),
c
o
E
tu
<u
5
in
c/>
z £2 L: ro
EE can be serviced without major disassembly of
I- the engine, and also parts which require splitting
O
of the crankcase for service. Figures 102, 103,
and 104 are exploded views of kickstarters
on models GT380, GT550, and GT750,
respectively.
Disassembly
Refer to the applicable instructions for split-
ro i- rr
- ra^ ta ^to íro E ^ ting the crankcase. Ali kickstarter parts can be
*J ™ m CD *-"
*•— *" «i *»» m ai aí ™ removed easily. Note carefully the locations of
the various small parts, such as thrust washers,
.2 *- as you remove them.
^- Ift
^ UÍ U)
Inspection
Check gear teeth for wear or damage. Kick-
starter gears should slide freely on their shafts.
Any spring showing evidence of fatigue or cracks
should be replaced.
GT380 KICKSTARTER
Kickstarter siiaft
Ratchetwhee!
-20
Kicksíarter spring
Tlirust washer
Kickstarter guide
Kickstarterstoppcr
7. Kicksiartef stopper washcr
8. Kickstarter síopper boft
9. Kickstarter drive gear
10. Kickstartcr shaft busfiing (1)
11. Kickstarter shaft bushing (2)
12. DOWÉ! pin
13. Dowel pin
14. Kickstarter shaft plug
15. Kickstarter shaft spring
16. Kickstarter shaft spring guide
17. Kickstarter shaft guide washer
18. Kickstartcr shaft oilseal
19. Kickstarter tever assembly
20. Kickstarter rubber
2L Kickstarier lever bolt
22. Lockwasher
13 M
62 CHAPTER THREE
23
GT550 KICKSTARTER
1. Kíckstaríer shaft
2. Ratchetwheel
3. Kickstarter spring
4. Thrust washer
5. Circlip
6. Kickstarter guide
7. Kickstarter síopper washer
8. Kickstarter stopper bolt
9. Kickstarter drive gear
10. Thrust washer
11. Kickstarter shafí bushing (1)
13. Dowel pin
14. Dowel pin
15. Thrust washer
16. Thrust washer
19. Kickstarter shaft spring guide
20. Kickstarter shafí guide washer
21. Kickstarter shsft oil seal
22. Kickstarter lever
23. Kickstarter rubber
24. Kickstarter lever bolt
25. Lockwasher
<
M 17
GT750 KICKSTARTER
1. Kickstarter shaft
3. Ratchetwheel
4. Kiekstarter spring
5. Thrust washer
G. Kickstarter guíde
7. Screw
8. Kickoil reservoir plate
9. Screw
10. Kickstarter drivc gear
11. Oil pump drive gear
12. Thrust washer
13. Kickstarter shaft bushing(l)
15. Dowel pin
17. Starter shaft spring guide
18. Starter shaft spring holder
19. Starter shaft oil seal
20. Kickstarter lever assembly
21. Rubber
22. Bolt
23. Washer
64 CHAPTER THREE
Reassembly
Reverse the disassembly procedure to as-
semble the kickstarter. After the crankcase is
assembled, install the kickstarter externai parts.
Observe the following notes:
MoSel GT380
1. Be sure to align the punched mark on the
kickstarter shaft with that on the ratchet wheel
(Figure 105).
4. After installation, turn the kickstarter shaft

approximately 3Á turn counterclockwise, then
set the ratchet wheel só that its boss engages
the stop.
ModelGT750
1. Refer to Figure 109 (page 66). Install ratchet
wheel (1) só that the punch mark aligns with the
punch mark on the shaft (2).
2. Be sure that the oil guide hole (3) is upward
when the ratchet wheel (1) coníacts the guide (4).
2. Check the kickstarter shaft after installation 3. Apply thread cement to the kickstarter guide
to be sure that it turns freely. screws.
ModelGT550 4. Align the punch marks on the kickstarter
shaft and kickstarter lever (Figure 110).
1, There are 2 bushings which must be installed
correctly. Figure 106 shows the correct way to
install them.
2. When the crankcase halves are joined, be
sure that the end of the kicfcstarter spríng is in
the hole in the crankcase (Figure 107),
SHIFTER
Operafion
Figure 111 illustrates the major functional
3. Install the ratchet wheel over the kickstarter components of the shifter. When the gearshift
shaft só that the two punch marks are aligned lever is pressed, the gearshift shaft (1) rotates.
(Figure 108). The gearshift pawl gear (4), which engages the
nnQQQQQQQQ
WASHER
OD : 1.18 in. (30mm)
(D :0.63 in. (16mm)
T :0.12in. (3mm)
WASHER
OD : 1.34 in. (34mm)
ID :0.87in. (22mm)
T : 0.08 in. (2mm)
1.34 in. (34mm)

0.67 in. (17mm)
0.08 in. (2mm)
1.10 in. (28mm)

THIS PUNCH 0.79 in. (20mm)
TH l S GROOVE 0.04 in. (Imm)
MARK TO FACE
TO FACE LEFT
RIGHT
66 CHAPTER THREE
1. Gearshiftingshaft
2. Shifting pawl lifter
3. Cam guide
4. Shifting cam driven gear
5. Neutral stopperspringholder
6. Shifting cam
7. Shifting forkshafts
sector gear on the gearshift shaft, turns also. associated gears into engagement or disengage-
Attached to the pawl gear are two pawls which ment as required to select the desired gear ratio.
rotate the shift cam (6). Grooves on the shift Figure 112 is an exploded view of the shif ter
cam are só arranged that rotation of the gear- mechanism on model GT380. The shifter used
shift cam causes the shift forks to move sideways. on models GT550 and GT750 is shown in
As the shift forks move sideways, they slide their Figure 113 (pages 68-69).
GT380 GEARSHIFT MECHANISM
Os
00
GT380 GEARSHIFT MECHANISM (See Diagram on Previous Page)

1. Transmission brake shoe 12. Gear shifting pawl click pin 23. Cam stopper spring 34. Gear shífting levar assemhly
2. Transmission brake shoe tappet 13. Pawl return spring 24. Spring holder screw 35. Gear shifting pedal mbber
3. Brake shoe tappet spring 14. Gear shifting cam bearing 25. Stopper arm spring 36. Bolt
4. 2nd drive gear shifting fork 15. Gear shifting pawl lifíer 26. Stopper plateplate 37. Lockwasher
5. 3rd drive gear shifting fork 16. Screw 27. Stopperplate screw 38. Gearshiftingswitch body
6. Sth driven gear shifting-fork 17. Gear shifting cam guide 23. Gear shifting fork shafí 39. 0-ring
7. Sth drive gear shifting fork 18. Screw 29. Gear shifting shaft 40. Screw
8. Gear shifting cam 19. Gear shifting cam thrustwasher 30. Return spring 41. Washer
9. Gear shifting cam driven gear 20. Gear shifting cam stopper 31. Shifting arm stopper 42. Gearshiftingswitch contact
10. Gear shifting pawl (1) 21. Gear shifting cam stopper 32. Lockwasher 43. Screw
11. Gear shifting pawl (2) 22. Stopper spring holder 33. Gear shifting shaft oilseal 44. Screw
GT550 AND GT750 GEARSHIFT MECHANISM
1. Gear shifting fork (1) 11. Shifting pawl guide 21. Shifting cam stopper plate 31. Bolt
2. Gear shifting fork (2) 12. Screw 22. Cam stoppGrarrn spring 32. Lockwasher
3. Gear shifting fork shafí 13. Shifting cam guide 23. Screw 33. Gearshiftingswitch body
4. Shífting cam 14. Screw 24. Gear shifting shaft 34. 0-ring
5. Shifting cam bearing 15. Thrustwasher 25. Shifting shaft return spring 35. Screw
O
6. Shifting cam driuen gear
7. Shifting pawl (1)

16. Shifting cam stopper
17. Stopper spring holder

26. Shifting arm stopper
27. Lockwasher
36. Washer
37. Gearshiftingswitch contact

55-d
H
8. Shiftingpawl(2) 18. Shifting cam stopper spring 28. Gear shifting shaft oil seal 38. Screw
9. Shifting pawl pin 19. Spring holder washer 29. Gear shifting lever 39. Screw
10. Shifting pawl reíurn spring 20. Shifting cam stopper 30. Shifting lever rubber
PI
w
rvj
70 CHAPTER THREE
Inspection
Check the shift forks for burrs or scratches.
Oi! seal Musí be even
Be sure that the shift fork shafts are not bent.
Examine the shift pawl stopper for wear. Check
that the shift pawl lifter is not worn. Check
springs for evidence of fatigue or cracks. Replace
any worn or damaged parts. RIGHT
OIL SEALS
Oil seals pcrform several important functions.
The first is to preveni loss of oil from the engine.
Oil seals also preveni primary compression
íeakage from the crank chamber, which is
essential to two-stroke engine operation. Finally, WRONG
oil seals also prevcnt entry of foreign matter into
the working parts of the engine. Always replace
the oil seals upon engine reassembly.
Observe the following notes when you install
íhe oil seals. BEARINGS
1. Always lubricate the oil seal lips with grease Always check bearing condition upon engine
before installation (Figure 114). reassembly. To do só, first clean the bearing
thoroughly in solvent, dry it, then lubricate it.
Spin the bearing (Figure 116), and check for
abnormal noise or roughness as it coasts down.
Do not spin a dry bearing.
Grease
2. Be very sure that the oil seal is not cocked in

its bore, A light coating of grease on the outside
surface of the seal will aid installation.
3. Be sure that the lips are not bent (Figure 115).
C H A P T E R FOUR
LIQUID COOLEVG SYSTEM
Model GT750 hás a liquid cooling system Inspection

similar to that of a conventional automobile. An 1. Chcck thc radiator for leakagc at ali scams
;-ngine-driven water pump circulates coolant and in thc core. Rcplace thc radiator in the event
through the cylinder head and cylínder jackets, of Icaks.
:hen through an aluminum radiator. An auxili-
2. Chcck thc core for clogging by mud, insects,
nry fan, controlled by a thermoswitch, provides or any othcr forcign material which might im-
idditional airflow through thc radiator during
pede propor airflow. A strcam of watcr from a
-reriods of high cnginc tcmperaíurc.
gardcn hosc dircctcd at thc back sidc of thc
radiator will usually clean away any foreign
m a t te r.
RADTATOR
3. Straighten any bent cooling fins.
Thc radiator is of conventional corrugated fin
and tube construction. Tts approximatc dímcn- Installation
sions are 9.5 inches (240 millimeters) high, 17
inches (430 millimeters) wide, and 2.3 inches Reverse the removal procedure to install thc
(60 millimeters) thick. radiator. Note that the radiator is aluminum;
therefore particular attcntion must be paid to its
proper installation to avoid stress concentratíons
Removal which couid lead to cracks.
Therc are 3 different thicknesses of mounting
1. Drain coolant.
shims. Scc Table 1.
2. Remove the fuel tank.
3. Loosen nccessary clamps, then remove the Table l SHIM THICKNESS
radiator inlet and outlet hoses, surge tank and
Shím Thickness
its hose, and the inlet tube. Inch (Millimcter)
4. Remove the fan and fan shroud.
5. Remove the radiator guard. A 0.079 (2.0)
B 0.063 (1.6)
6. Remove the radiator. Note the position of C 0.031 (0.8)
cach mounting shim as it is rcmovcd.
72 CHAPTER FOUR
Refer to Figure l for shim location. The upper

and/or lower tanks may or may not be marked
with a white circle. Refer to Table 2 for washer
locations.
Table 2 WASHER LOCATIONS
Tank and Mark Shim Location

Inside Outside
Upper with circle A B

Upper without circle B B
Lower wítli circle B A
Lower without circle B B
pressure relicf valve should open at 12.8 ± 1.4

pounds per square inch (0.9 ± 0.1 kilogram per
squarc ccntimeter). If no pressure tester is avail-
able, support the valve in an inverted position
and place weights upon the valve as shovvn in
Figure 3. The valve should open at approxi-
mately 15.4 pounds (7 kilograms).
Use shim "C" as required to fill any of the re-

maining gap.
RADIATOR CAP
The radiaíor cap (Figure 2) is equipped with
three valves. The first is a pressure release valve
which opens if cooling system pressure exceeds
approximaíely 13 pounds per square inch (0.9
kilogram per square ceníimeter). Valve "A"
operates by finger pressure to bleed any residual
pressure from the system before cap removal. THERMOSTAT
Valve "B" acts as a vacuum breaker. As system A thermostat (Figure 4) controls coolant flow
pressure drops as a result of cooling and con- through the radiator, thereby maintaining a
tracíion, valve "B" opens to preveni possible more constant engine temperaíure. At coolant
damage to the radiator. temperaturas of 180 degrees F (82 degrees C)
Check the pressure cap for opening pressure, or lower, the thermostat closes, blocking coolaní
using a conventional radiaíor cap tester. The flow to íhc radiator. Coolaní then flows íhrough
IIQUID COOLING SYSTEM 73
Thermo-swiícn
Cover
Thermostat
Cooline
solution
To water pump
a bypass duct back to the engine. As coolant

temperature rises to 180 degrees F (82 degrees
C), the íhermostat valve begins to open, and
allows some coolant to flow through the radi-
ator. When coolant temperature reaches 203 de-
grees F (95 degrees C), the thermostat opens
completely, closing íhe bypass and directing ali
coolant through the radiator. Expansion and
contraction of a wax pellet provides operating
power for the thermostat (Figure 5).
Service on the thermostat is Hmited to check-
ing the pellet for cracks, and measuring its op-
erating temperature. Immerse the thermostat in
a vessel of water (Figure 6) together with an
accuraíe thermometer. Heat the water, and stir
continuously to maintain auniform temperaíure.
If the valve is operating properly, it will begin
to open at l80 degrees F (82 degrees C), and be
fully open at 203 degrees F (95 degrees C).
Valve stroke at full opening is 0.3 inch (8 milli-
meters).
74 CHAPTER FOUR
CLOSED OPEN
ARROWS SHOW DIRECTION OF FLOW
A thermostat which operates impropcrly may WATER PUMP

lead to engine overheating or overcooling. Ke-
place the thermostat if its operating tempera- The water pump (Figure 7) is mounted in the
tures vary appreciably from normal. Thermostat transmission chamber at the bottom of the en-
troubles are usually caused by one of the gine. It is of centrifugal type, with a six-blade
following: impeller.
a. Rust or scale in the coolant solution Removal
b. Weakened spring 1. Drain the coolant.
c. Wax leakage from pellet 2. Remove both central mufflers.
Reverse the remova! procedure to install the 3. Remove the water pump cover. Be careful
thermostat. Always use a new gasket. not to damage its gasket surface.
LIQUID COOLING SYSTEM 75
GT750 WATER PUMP

76 CHAPTER FOUR
4. Remove the impeller after removing its snap

ring (Figure 8).
GT750 WATER PUMP
(See Diagram on Previous Page)
1. Water pump case

2. Water pump case gasket
3. Dowel pin
4. Bolt
5. Water pump driven shaft
6. Pump driven shaft holder
7. Circlip
S. Water pump holder bolt
9. Washcr
10. O-ring
11. Water pump impeller
12. Key
5. Remove pump holder snap ring (Figure 9),
13. Circlip
then wrap the pump shaft in a rag and pull it out
14. Water pump sealing seat
with pliers (Figure 10). Be sure that the pump
15. O-ring
shaft is not damaged duríng this step.
16. Bearing
17. Water pump drive shaft
18. Pump drive shaft pin
19. Water pump driven gear
20. Pump driven gear pin
21. Washer
22. E-ring
23. Pump drive shaft ring
24. Air breather pipe
25. Union bolt
26. Union bolt gasket
27. Water by-pass hose No. l
union
28. Water by-pass hose No. 2
union
29. Union gasket
30. Water by pass hose
31. Water by-pass hose clamp
32. Grommet
33. Tachometer driven gear
34. Tachometer driven gear
sleeve
35. Thrust washer
36. Circlip
37. O-ring
38. Driven gear sleeve bolt
39. Washer
Disassembly and Inspection
1. Heat the pump holder and shaft assembly to
approximately 165-185 degrees F (75-85 de-
grees C), then pull the shaft from the pump 4. Apply gasket cement to both sides of the gas-
holder. ket before installing the pump cover.
NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the
seals from the pump holder. Replace
the pump holder if these seals are COOLING SYSTEM
damaged. MAINTENANCE
Becausc of the special nature of a liquid cool-
2. Check the bearing for roughness or excessive ing system, certain cautions must bc obscrvcd,
:-nd play. and certain maintenance operations performed
3. Remove any rust or corrosion from the pump periodically.
íhaft, using emery paper.
-. Check the impeller for bcnt or broken blades. Coolant Solution
5. Be sure that the seal seat is not worn ex- As a general rule, the cooling system shonld
cessively. Replace the pump holder and seal seat be kept filled with a mixture of half distillcd
:f íhis condition exists. water and half permanent typc (ethylcne glycol)
^. Check the O-rings for wear or damage. antifreeze solution. Antifreeze is necessary, not
~. Check the drive gears and bearings for wear only for protection from freezing, but also be-
or roughness. cause it contains corrosion inhibitors. Tt also
acts as a water pump lubricant and serves to
í. Check the outer surface and the circumfer-
raise the boiling point of the coolant solution
ence of the impeller for evidence of rubbing (Figure 11). For these reasons, coolant solutions
igainst the crankcase or pump cover. There
with less than 30 perccnt antifreeze are not rec-
ihould be 0.02 to 0.06 inch (0.5 to 1.5 milli- ommcnded at any time.
-p.eíer) gap between the impeller and crankcase.
Ordinary tap water is usually not suitable for
use. Most tap water contains minerais which
may cause corrosion in the engine and radiator.
Reassembly Always use distilled water when making up new
coolant solution. Disíilled water is available aí
Reverse the disassembly procedure to reas- almost any supermarket. Tt is sold for use in
í^mble the water pump. Observe the following steam irons.
points: Table 3 Hsts approximatc proportions of dis-
'_. Lubricate the outside of the water pump tilled water and anti-freeze required for refill
holder with oil before installation. after draining. When addíng a srnall amount to
2. Be sure that the hole in the pump holder make up for normal loss, use distilled water. If
iligns with the hole in the crankcase. Rotate the more than a little is needed, use a mixture of
'-older slightly each way só that the crankcase water and anti-freeze.
"?olt engages the notch in the pump holder. Always check coolant levei before staríing the
J . Install the impeller, then install its snap ring. engine. With the engine cold, coolant levei
3e sure that there is 0.06 inch (1.5 millimeters) should be 0.2 to 0.6 inch (5 to 15 millimeters)
:!earance between the impeller and crankcase. from the bottom of the reservoir (Figure 12).
Table 3 ENGINE COOLANT
Concentration Antifreeze Distilled Water Protects to

(percent) Quarts (Liters) Quarts (Liters) Degrees F (Degrees C)
30 1.40 (1.35) 3.30 (3.15) 14 (-10)

40 1.90 (1.80) 2.90 (2.70) -4 (-20)
50 2.40 (2.25) 2.40 (2.25) -24 (-31)
60 2.90 (2.70) 1.90 (1.80) -58 (-50)
78 CHAPTER FOUR
("F) 11
302'
284-
266-
248- 120
U
230-1 110
212- 100
t
10 20 30 40 50
Density (%)
12
Hnshing System should operate with the wire disconnected. If the

Every two years or 20,000 miles (35,000 fan does not operate, test the fan motor and relay
tilometers), whichever comes first, the cooling by disconnecting the brown/white wire from the
; item must be drained, fíushed, and refilled fan, then applying battery power to that wire. If
-ithfreshsolution. the motor then works, the relay is defective. If
. Remove the crankcase water drain plug and the motor doesn't work, replace or rcpair the
motor.
-idiator cap.
I. Replace the drain plug, then refill the system
- ith tap water. TROUBLESHOOTING
_:. Run the engine until it is at normal operatíng Table 4 lists symptoms, probable causes, and
:emperature. remedies for possíble cooling system problems.
-. Repeat Steps l, 2, and 3 until the drained
-ater is colorless.
5. Replace the drain plug and tighten it securely. Table 4 TROUBLESHOOTING
l
f. Fill the system with antifreeze and distilled Gverlieating
•vater mixture. a. Insufficient coolant Replenish solulion
". Add approxímately 2Vs ounces (70 cubic b, Clogged system Clean
centimeters) liquid stop-leak to the coolant c. Incorrect ignition timing Adjust
d. Stickingthermostat Replace
solution. e. Defective pump Replace
CAUTION f. Dragging brakes Adjust
Be sure íhat the stop-leak used is com- g. Fan inopcrativc Repair
patible with permanent type antifreeze
and aluininum engines. Overcooling
a. Defective thermostat Replace
S. Run the engine until normal operating tem- b. Coldweather Cover radiator
perature is reached, then check for leaks.
9. Check and adjust coolant levei after the en- Coolant loss
gine hás cooled. a. Leaking radiaior Remir
b. Loose hoses Tighten clamps
c. Leaking pump cover Repairor replace
FAN CIRCUIT
d. Defective head gasket Replace
The fan is controlled by a thermoswitch. e. Warped cylinder head Resurfaccor replace
Whenever coolant temperature rises to 221 de- f. Cracked cylinder head Replace
g. Cracked cylinder block Replace
grees F (105 degrees C), the fan begins to oper-
h. Defective pressure cap Rcplace
ate. As coolant temperature drops to about 212
degrees F (100 degrees C), the fan stops. Noise
To test the fan circuit, turn the ignition switch a. Defective water pump Replace
on, then dísconnect the brown wire from the b. Loose orbent impeller Replscc
thermoswitch on the cylinder head. The fan
CHAPTER FIVE
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
This chapter discusses operating principies induced in the secondary winding of the ignition
and troubleshooting procedures for Suzuki igni- coil. This high voltage is sufficient to jump the
tion, charging, starting, signal, and lighting sys- gap at the spark plug.
tems. AU Suzuki 3-cylÍnder machines are The condenser assists the coil in its job of
equipped with alternators as the source of elec- developing high voltage, and also serves to pro-
trical system power. tect the breaker points. Inductance of the ignition
coil primary tends to keep a surge of currení
flowing through the circuit even after the points
IGNITION SYSTEM have started to open. The condenser stores this
Ali models are equipped with battery igniíion surge and thus prevenis arcmgat the points.
systems. This system operates in a manner simi-
lar to tliat of a conventional automobile. Troubleshooting
Ignition system problems can be classified as
Operation no spark, weak spark, or improperly timed
Figure l is a simplified diagram of the ignition spark. These conditions can affect any or ali
system used on these machines. Note that the cylinders of a multicylinder engine. Table l lists
system is shown for a singlc cylinder only; ali common causes and remedies for ignition system
components except the battery, fuse, and igni- malfunction.
tion switch are duplicated for the other cylinders. If the problem is no spark at any cylinder, it
When the breaker points are closed, current is almost certainly because current is not reach-
flows from the battery through the primary ing any coil. Since the only current is through
wínding of the ignition coil, thereby building a the battery connections and main switch, the
magnetic field around the coil. The breaker cam defect will be easy to locate.
rotates with the crankshaft and is só adjusted Ignition failures confined to one cylinder are
that the breaker points open as the piston also easy to isolate.
reaches the firing position. 1. Rotate the engine until the points associated
As the points open, the magnetic field col- with the affected cylinder are closed.
lapses. When the field collapses, a very high 2. Disconnect the high voltage lead from the
voltage (up to approximately 15,000 volts) is affected spark plug and hold it 14 in. away from
ECTRICAL SYSTEM 81
Ignition switch
Condenser
Moveable
breaker
4 co n ta et
Breaker
Ignition
tr cam
Fixed breaker contact
IGNITION coil
SYSTEM
Table l IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy
No spark, or weak spark, Discharged battery Charge battery

ali cylinders Def ective f use Replace
Defective main switch Replace
Loose or corroded connections Clean and tighten
Broken wire Repair
No spark, or weak spark, Incorrect pointgap Reset points. Be sure to readjust ignition
onecylinderonly timíng
Dirty oroily points Clean points
Spark plug lead damaged Replace wire
Broken primary wire Repair wire
Open windíng in coil Replace coil
Shorted winding in coil Replace coil
Defective condenser Replace condenser
Misfires Dirty spark plugs Clean or replace plug

Spark plug is too hot Replace with colder plug
Spark plug is too cold Replace with hotter plug
Spring on ignition points is weak Replace points, reset timing
Incorrect timing Adjust timing
82 CHAPTER FIVE
the cylinder head. Turn on the ignition. With an required is that of keeping the electrical con-
insulatcd tool, such as a piece of wood, open the nections clean and tíght, and occasíonally check-
points, A fat, blue-white spark should jump from ing to see that the coil is mounted securely.
the spark plug lead to the cylinder head. If the If coil condition is doubtful, there are several
spark is good, clean or replace the spark plug. checks which may be made.
If there is no spark, or if it is thin, yellowish, or 1. Measure coil primary resistance, using an
weak, continue with Step 3. ohmmeter, between both coil primary terminais.
3. Connect the leads of a voltmeter to the wire Resistance should measure approximately 5
on the points and to a good ground. Turn on the ohms. Some coils, however, have a primary re-
ignition switch. If the meter indicates more sistance of less than one ohm. Compare the
than. V* volt, the problem is defective points. measurement obtained with that of a known
Replace them. good one.
4. Open the points with an insulated tool, such 2. Measure resistance between either primary
as a piece of wood. The voltmeter should indi- terminal and the high voltage terminal. Resist-
cate battery voltage. If not, there are 3 possi- ance range should be 10,000 to 25,000 ohms.
bilitiesr 3. If these checks don't reveal any defects, but
a. Shorted points coil condition is still doubtful, substitute a
b. Shorted condenser known good one.
c. Open coil primary círcuít Be sure to connect ali wires to their proper
terminais when replacing the coil.
5. Disconnect the condenser and the wire from
the points, Connect the ungrounded (positive on
most bikes) voltmeter lead to the wire which was Condenser
conneeted to the points. If the voltmeter does
The condenser is a sealed unit that requires
not indícate battery voltage, íhe problem is an
no maintenance. Be sure that both connections
opcn coil primary circuit. Replace the suspecíed
are clean and tight.
coil with a known good one. You may borrow
Two tests can be made on the condenser.
onc from another cylinder. If that coil doesn't
Measure condenser capacity with a condenser
work, the problem is in the primary wiring.
tester. Capacity should be 0.16 to 0.20 micro-
6. If the voltmeter indicates battery voltage in farad. The other test is insulation resistance,
Step 5, the coil primary circuit is OK. Connect which should not be less than 5 megohms, meas-
the positive voltmeter lead to the wire which goes ured between the condenser pigtail and case.
from the coil to the points. Block the points open In the event that no test equipment is avail-
with a business card or similar piece of card- able, a quick test of the condenser may be made
board. Connect the negative voltmeter lead to by connecting the condenser case to íhe negative
the movable point. If the voltmeter indicates terminal of a 12-volt battery, and the positive
any voltage, the points are shorted and must lead to the positive battery terminal. Allow the
be replaced. condenser to charge for a few seconds, then
7. If the foregoing checks are satisfactory, the quickly disconnect the battery and touch the
problem is in the coil or condenser. Substitute condenser pigtail to the condenser case. If you
each of these separately with a known good one observe a spark as the pigtail touches the case,
from another cylinder to determine which is you may assume that the condenser is OK.
defective. Arcing between the breaker points is a com-
mon symptom of condenser failure.
Ignition Coil
The ignition coil is a form of transformer Breaker Points
which develops the high voltage required to Refer to Chapter Two for details of breaker
jump the spark plug gap. The only maintenance point service.
ALTERNATOR 2. Start the engine and run it at 2,000 to 3,000

An alternator is a form of electrical generator rpm. If the voítmeíer indicates 13.5 to 14.5
in which a magnetized field called a rotor, re- volts, you may assume that the alternator and
volves within a set of statíonary coils called a regulator are OK.
stator. As the rotor revolves, alíernating current 3. If the voltmeter does notindicate 13.5 to 14.5
is induced in the stator. Stator current is then volts, further checking will be required. Trouble
rcctified and used to operate electrical acces- may lie in the alternator, regulator, or wiring.
íories and for charging the battery. Proceed with Steps 4 through 8.
The output from the alternator is controlled 4. Measure field winding resistance between
by a voltage regulator, which performs its func- both alternator slip rings. If resistance is not
::on by controlling the amount of fíeld current approximately as specified, replace the rotor.
:o the alternator rotor. Denso rotor 10-12 ohms
Suzuki machines are equipped with either Kokusan rotor 4-5 ohms
Denso (Figure 2) or Kokusan (Figure 3) alter-
na tors. Service procedures for the 2 types are 5. Measure insulation resistance of the field
similar. Differences will be pointed out where winding. Set the ohmmeter to its highest range,
:hey exist. Charging system connections (Fig- then measure resistance between either slip ring
ure 4) are the same for both systems. and the rotor shaft. Insulation resistance must
If alternator or regulator problems are sus- be essentially infinite.
pected, as in the case of a chronically under- 6. Check the alternator brushcs (Figure 6) for
charged battery or dim headlights, check alter- wear. Rcplacc Denso brushcs whcn thcy are
nator output voltage. worn to 0.28 in. (7mm). Kokusan brushes shoiild
l. Connect a 0-20 DC voltmeter across the bat- be replaccd when they are worn to the limit niark
tery terminais (Figure 5). Be sure to connect the on the brush. On GT750 models, rcplncc brushcs
positive voltmeter lead to the positive battery when thcy are worn to 0.22 in. (5.5mm).
terminal, and the negative voltmeter lead to the 7. Check for coníinuity between each pair of
negative battery terminal. yellow wires coming from the alternator stator.
Alternator
Ignítion switch Regulator
84 CHAPTER FIVE
20
KOKUSAN ALTERNATOR
1. Alternator
2. Stator assembly
3. Screw
4. Washer
5. Lockwasher
6. Rotor
7. Bolt
8. Washer
9. Lockwasher
10. Screw
11. Lockwasher
12. Lead wiredamp
13. Brush (+)
14. Brush (—)
15. Brush holder
16. Screw
17. Washer
18. Brusli holder ínsiilator
19. Screw
20. Voltage regulatorassembly
86 CHAPTER FIVE
Voltmeter
pi—{pnwKJ-
H J Voltage regulator
Altcrnator
\t be greater
this lengtíi
Must be greater
than 0.2 in. (5.5mm)
Limit linc
DENSO KOKUSAN
8. Set the ohmmeter to its híghest range, then ternator into direct current which is used te
measure insulation resistance between the staíor charge the baítery. Tt also prevents discharge o:
housing and any of the 3 yellow leads. Insulation the battery through the alternator when the en-
resistance must be essentially infinite. gine isn't running, or at other times when alter-
nator output voltage is less than battery voltage.
The rectifier assembly hás 3 yellow leads, one
RECTIFIER red lead, and one black/white lead (Figure T).
The rectifier assembly serves 2 purposes. It l. Measure resistance between each yellow leac
converts alternating current produce by the al- and the red lead. Record each measurement.
l
ÉLECTRICAL SYSTEM 87
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
Operation
o Red
Suzuki alternators use separately excited field
windings. As engine speed increases, alternator
Normal direction
output tends to increase. It is possible, however,
Yellow
Yellow
to control alternator output by controlling
Yellow
field current.
Reverse direction
Figure 8 illustratcs the situation at low cnginc
speeds. Rectífied alternaíor output is applíed to
coil "B", However, since the output is low, thc
o Black/White
magnetic field developed by coil "B" is too low
to open contacts P! and P 0 . Under these condi-
tions, field current is supplicd by thc battcry
through thc ignition switch, and is at its
Reverse ohmmeter leads and repeat Step 1.
maximum value.
. íf each pair of measurements was essentially Figure 9 illustrates the circuit as engine spccd
::inite in one direction and low in the reverse increases. As alternator output voltagc tcnds to
^rection, proceed with Step 4. If any pair of increase, coil "B" generates more magnetic
-. :-asurements was either high or low in both force, which breaks contacts P! and PO- Fíeld
^ctíons, replace the rectifier assembly. current is then supplicd from thc alternator out-
. Measure resistance between each yellow lead put through resístor "C". Resistor "C" limits
-.d the black lead. Record each measurement. field current., and thereby reduces alternator
. Reverse the meter connections and repeat output só that contacts Ci and C0 again close,
:^p 4. If any pair of measurements was either repeating the cycle.
igh or low in both directions, replace the At high engine speeds and light electrical
::íifier assembly. íoads, action of the upper and center contacts is
To ignition switch,
battcry and
alternator output
To alternator field
-n
B
Ground
88 CHAPTER FIVE
To ignition switch,
battery, and
alternator output
ro
To alternator field
Ground
insuílícient to control alternator output. As out- 1. Remove the regulator.

put voltage continues to rise, coil "B" pulls the 2. Check for continuity between the green and
movable contact (P0) down to the lower contact orange wires, and also between the black/whitc
(P-). Under this condition the field is grounded, and orange wires (Figure 10). Reconnecí the
and alternator output drops to zero. As is drops, ohmmeter between the green and orange leads.
the movable and lower contacts scparate, and the Remove the regulator cover, then gently pres?
cycle repeats. the armature (l in Figure 11) só that the mov-
able contact touches the other fixed contací. Thc
ohmmeter should indicate about 10 ohms.
Regulaíor Testing
NOTE: The regulator cover is sealed
The most common causes of voltage regulator to preveni entry of dirt and moisturc.
trouble are open wires or short circuits. To check Do not remove the rcgnlator cover
thc regulator, proceed as follows. unless it is necessary to do só.
TobeO
Green
Orange
Black/white
Regulator
To be conductive
2. Connect a voltmeter of known accuracy to

measure system voltage (Figure 4).
3. Start íhe engine and run it at approximately
3,000 rpm. Note the voltmeter indication.
4. Bend the adjustment arm on Denso regu-
lators, or turn the screw on Kokusan regulators
(Figure 12) until the voltmeter indicates 14,0
±0.5 volts.
5. Turn off thc ignition and replace the cover.
6. Check adjustment with cover installed.
L Regulator íever
2, Lever
ELECTRIC STARTER
Models GT550 and GT750 are equippcd with
Connect a voltmeter across the battery ter- electric self-starters. Starting motors are supplicd
minais. Reconnect the regulaíor. by 2 different manufacíurers, Denso and Koku-
-. Start íhe engine and run it at 3,000 rpm. Tf san, só it is important to specify the make of
measured voltage is 14.0 ± 0.5 the regulator motor when ordering replacernent parts. Service
is OK. Adjust or replace the regulator if regu- procedures are similar; difTerences will bc
voltage is not within those limits. pointed out whcre they exist.
NOTE: Denso and Kokusan r giilutors
are interchangeable. Síarícr Operafion
Figure 13 illustratcs a typical síarter motor
circuit. When thc rider presses the engine starter
Voltage Regulator Adjustment button, current flows from the battery through
Do not atíempt to adjust íhe regulator unless íhe coil of the starter relay, causing the rclay
:: hás first been determíned that aíl other paris armature to connect terminais "M" and "B",
:-f the charging system are in good condition. Current thcn flows directly from the battery to
I . With the engine noí running, and the ignition the starter motor. Figure 14 is a pictorial dia-
r.vitch off, remove the regulaíor cover. gram of the system connections.
-*~\R
ARM
M ADJUSTER
SCREW
DENSO KOKUSAN
90 CHAPTER FIVE
STARTING CIRCUIT
Starter relay
Fuse ?
Ignition \h f
Starter Engine ; Battery

buíton stop
switch
Figure 15 illustrates a typical starter drive drives the clutch housing, the engine may be
train. When the starter turns, torque is trans- started with the transmission in gear if the clutch
mitted through, and multiplied by, the idler gear is released.
and starter clutch gear. The starter clutch will
transmh torque in only one direction. When the
engine starts, the outer race, connected to the Starter Disassembly
clutch housíng, overruns the inner race and dis- Figures 16 and 17 are exploded views of
connects the drive. Note that since the starter Denso and Kokusan starting motors; refer to the
STARTER
DRIVE CHAIN
Starter motor
STARTING SYSTEM
Starting
motor
92 CHAPTER FIVE
m
(5) n
H
se
KOKUSAN STARTER
C/l
1. Starting motor assembly B. Brusi; holder assembly
«!
2. Housingbolt 9. Brush (+) t/1
3. Lockwasher 10. Brush (—) H
M
11. Brush spring
4.
5.
Armature
Shim 12. Nut
2
6. Shim 13. Lockwasher
7. Shim 14. Wasfier
15. Screw
94 CHAPTER FIVE
applicable illustration during disassembly and

reassembly. To disassemble the starting rnotor,
procecd as follows, Undercut
1. Remove both thru-bolts, commutator end
frnme, bolts, brushes, shims, and thrast washers.
Note locaíions of ali small parts as thcy are
remove d.
2. Press out bushings from both end frames.
3. Reassembly is the reversc of disassembly.
Pay particular attention to the following points.
a. Apply a small amount of multipurpose

grcase to both armature bushings.
b. Tnstall armature brushes into the brush
holders after armature is installed.
c. Be surc that ali shims and thrust washers
are positioned correctly.
d. Be sure that íhe shaft turns freely. 7. Using an ohmmeter or armature tester, check
for open windings in the armature (Figure 19).
Starting Motor Overhaul
1. Mcasure clearance bctwcen each bushíng and
the armature shaft. Replace bushings if clear-
ancc excecds 0.008 in. (0.2mm).
2. Examine íhe commutator for rough, burned,
ar scored segmenís, and for possible sígns of
overheatingor thrown solder.
3. Mouní lhe armature in a lathe, V-blocks, or
other suiíable centering device and measure the
commutator for runout. If runout exceeds 0.012
in. (0.3mm) turn it down, but do not take orf só
much that ovcrall commutator diameter is less
than 1.045 in. (26.5mm).
4. After turning, undercut the mica insulators
betwcen commutator segments to 0.020-0.030
in. (0.5-0.8mm). If commutator turning was not
rcquired, bc sure that the mica insulators are 8. With the armature removed, test the shun:
undercut at least 0.012 in. (0.3mm), as shown field coils by connecting the motorcycle baíter.
in Figure 18. A broken hacksaw blade is a suit- between the starter terminal and the starte:
able tool for undercutting the mica. Be sure to housing as shown in Figure 20. Inseri a screw-
clean cach slot thoroughly. driver into the motor housing. If the screwdrive:
5. Using an ohmmeter or armature growler, íest is drawn to coils "A" and "C", the shunt fielc
each commutator segment to be sure íhat it is not coils are not open. Do not leave íhe battery con-
shoríed to ground. Replace the armature if any nected any longer than is necessary to makc-
short exísts. Do not connect either test probe to this test.
the bearing surfaces of the shaft. 9. Disconnect the shunt field coil wire at th;
6. Using an armature growler, test for armature ground brush. Then with an ohmmeter set to its
coil shorts. Follow the manufactureis instruc- highest range, check for continuity between the
tíons on the íest equipment. starter terminal and ground. If the ohmmete:
ICTRICAL SYSTEM 95
jr.dicates anything other than an open circuít,

replace the shunt field coils. Shunt field coil
::sistance, measured between the starter ter-
minal and the grounded brush, should bc Must be greater
ipproximately 2.5 ohms. than 0.4 in. (lOmm)
10. Check series field coils by connecting the
r.otorcycle battery between both brushes, as DENSO
•r.own in Figure 21. Then again insert a screw-
.inver into the motor housing. The screwdriver
íhould be attracted to the shunt coils ("A" and
"C"). Do not leave the battery connected any
!:nger than is necessary to make this test. Must be grcater
than 0.4 in. (lOmm)
11. Disconnect the shunt coil wire at the starter
:erminal. With an ohmmeter set to its highest
range, measure between the starter terminal and KOKUSAN
"já motor housing. If the ohmmeter indicates

_nything other than an open circuit, replace the
series field coil. 14. Upon reassembly, check brush spring ten-
sion. If tension is less than 0.85 pound (600
12. With the ohmmeter set to its highest range,
grams), replace the springs.
;heck for any short circuit between the insulated
starter brush and ground. Repair or replace the
brush holder if any short circuit exists. STARTER RELAY
13. Examine both starter brushes. Replace them The starter relay controls operating current to
when they are worn to the limits shown in the staríer motor. When the starter button is
Figure 22. pressed, the relay coil is energized, closing the
96 CHAPTER FIVE
relay contacts. Current then fíows from the bat- STARTER CLUTCH
tery, through the relay contacts, and finally The starter clutch transmits torque from the
through lhe starting motor. starter to the engine, but releases whenever the
To check the síarter relay, momentarily con- engine overruns the starter. Figure 24 is a sim-
nect the battery as shown in Figure 23. The plified drawing of the staríer clutch mechanism.
relay should clíck as the battery is connected.
Then remove the rclay covcr and check the con-
tacts for burrs or roughness. Dress the contacts,
if nccessary, with a fine file.
Inner race
(part of starter clutch gear)
Housing
(connectingto primary gear)
Figures 25 and 26 are expíoded views of

starter clutches for models GT550 and GT750.
respectively. Refer to the appropriate illustratíon
duríng disassembly and reassembly.
GT550 STARTER CLUTCH

1. Starteridlegear
2. Startcr idle gear shaft
3. Screw
4. Thrustwasher
5- Circlip
6. starter idlc gear bcaring
7. Starter clutch gear
8. Roller
9. Spring
10. Roller push piece
11. Startcr clutch hub
12. Starter clutcliplate
13. Screw
During reassembly, observe the following

notes.
1. Apply thread lock cement to each assembly
bolt or screw.
2. On GT750 models, be sure that punch mark
(l in Figure 27) aligns with pin (2) on the water
pump drive gear.
3. Tighten the retaining nut on model GT750
to 33-40 ft.-lb. (4.5-5.5 mkg). A starter clutch
holder (Figure 28) will make the job easier.
4. On model GT750, turn the breaker cam shaft
by hand to align its cutaway with the pin on the
water pump drive gear (Figure 29). 1. Punch mark 2, Pin
Headligfit
LIGHTS The headlight unit consists primarily of a
Machines which are intended to be ridden on lamp body, a dual-filament bulb, a lens and
public streets are equipped with lights. Check reflector unit, a rim, and a socket. To adjust íhe
them periodically to be sure that they are work- headlighí, loosen the 2 mounting bolts and move
ing properly. the assembly as required.
98 CHAPTER FIVE
24 25 28
GT750 STARTER CLUTCH
1. Starter idlegearwasher 10. Starter clutch housing 19. Lockwasher

2. Starter idle gear 11. Key 20. Breaker cam shaft
3. Idle gear pín 12. Starter clutch plate 21. Breaker cam shaft bearing
4. Síarterclutch gear 13. Breaker cam shaft rubber 22. Bearing
5. Starter clutch bearing 14. Water pump drive gear 23. Circlip
G. Starter clutch hub 15. Breaker cam shsft drive pin 24. Oil seal
7. Roller 16. Screw 25. Spacer
8. Starter clutch spring 17. Nut 26. 0-ring
9. Push piece 18. Washer 27. Dowel pín
ELECTRIC AL SYSTEM 99
Tum Signals
If any turn signal bulb burns out, bc sure to
replace it with the same type. Tmproper action
of the flasher relay, or even failure to operate
may result from use of the wrong bulbs.
HORN
Current for the horn is supplied by the bat-
tery. One horn terminal is connected to the
battery through the main switch. The othcr ter-
minal is connected to the horn button. When
the rider presses the butíon, current flows
through the horn.
Figure 30 illustrates horn operation. As cur-
rent flows through the coil, the core becomcs
magnetized, and attracts the moving plate, or
armature. As the armature moves toward the
coil, it opens the contact points, cutting ofí
current to the coil. The diaphragm spring ílien
rcturns the armature to its original posilion.
This process rcpcaís rapidly until the ridcr re-
leases the horn button. The action of the arma-
ture striking the end of the core produces the
sound, which is amplified by the resonator
diaphragm (Figure 31).
Diaphragm
Moving plate
J
Iron core
Horn tone may be adjusted by turn i n g the

adjuster screw in the back of the horn asscmbly.
P-rake Light Loosen the locknut before adjustment, then bc
The switch is actuated by the brake pedal. sure to retighten it after adjustment is complete.
Adjust the switch só that the stoplight goes on The horn will not sound if its contact poinís
just before brakíng action occurs. Move the are burned. Dress them if necessary, using a
switch body up or down as required for adjust- small point file or flex stone. Adjust the horn
ment. Tighten the clamp nut after adjustment. after dressing its contact points.
100 CHAPTER FIVE
Diaphragm
Coníact point
Adjusting screw
Coil
BATTERY When batteries are being charged, highly ex-

Suzuki motorcycles are equípped with lead- plosíve hydrogen gás forms in each cell. Some
acid storage batteries, smaller in size but similar of this gás escapes through the filler openings
in consíruction to batteries used in automobiles. and may form an explosive atmosphere around
the battery. This explosive atmosphere may exisi
WARNING for severa! Jiows. Sparks, open flame, or a
Rcad and thoroughly undcrstand the
lighted cigaretíe can ignite this gás, causing an
seclion on safcíy precauiions bcfore
dóing any battery service. internai explosion and possible serious personal
injury. The following precautions should be
taken to preveni an explosion.
Safety Prccautions 1. Do not smoke or permit any open flame near
When working with batteries, use extreme any battery being charged or which hás been
care to avoid spilling or splashing electrolyte. recently charged.
This electrolyte is sulphuric acid, which can des- 2. Do not disconnect live circuits at battery ter-
troy cloíhing and cause serious chemical burns. minais, because a spark usually occurs when a
If any electrolyte is spílled or splashed on cloíh- live circuit is broken. Care must always be taken
ing or body, it should immediately be neutralized when connectíng or disconnecting any battery
with a solution of baking soda and water, íhen charger; be sure its power switch is off before
flushed with plenty of clean waíer. making or breaking connections. Poor connec-
Electrolyte splashed into the eyes is extremely tions are a common cause of electrical ares
dangerous. Safety glasses should always be worn which cause explosions.
when working wiíh batteries. If electrolyte is Battery electrolyte levei should be checked
splashed into the eye, force the eye open, flood regularly, partícularly during hot weather. Most
with cool clean water for about 5 minutes, and baíteries are marked with electrolyte levei limit
call a physícian immediately. Hnes. Always maintain electrolyte levei between
If electrolyte is spilled or splashed onto the 2 lines, using distilled water as required for
painted or unpainted surfaces, it should be neu- replenishment. Distilled water is available at
tralized immediately with baking soda solution almost every supermarket. It is sold for use in
and then rinsed with clean water. steam irons and is quite inexpensive.
Overfilling leads to loss of electrolyte, result- Motorcycle batteries are not designed for high
:ng in poor battery performance, short life, and charge or discharge rates. For this reason, it is
excessive corrosion. Never allow the electrolyte recommended that a motorcycle battery be
"evel to drop below the top of the plaíes. That charged at a rate not exceeding 10 percent of its
portion of the plates exposed to air may be per- ampere-hour capacity. That is, do not ex-
manently damaged, resulting in loss of battery ceed 0.5 ampere charging rate for a 5 ampere-
performance and shortened life. hour battery, or 1.5 amperes for a 15 ampere-
Excessive use of water is an indication that hour battery. This charge rate should continue
the battery is being overcharged. The 2 most for 10 hours íf the battery is completely dis-
:ommon causes of overcharging are high battery charged, or until specific gravity of each cell is
tsmperature or high voltage regulator settíng. up to 1.260-1,280, corrected for temperature. If
It is advisable to check the voltage regulator, on after prolonged charging, specific gravity of one
machines só equipped, if this suitation exists. or more cells does not come up to at least 1.230,
the battery will not perform as well as ií should,
Geaning but it may continue to provide satisfactory
Check the battery occasíonally for presencc of service for a time.
dirt or corrosion. The top of the battery, in par- Some temperature rise is normal as a battery
ticular, should be kept clean. Acid film and dirl is being charged. Do not allow electrolyte tem-
permit current to flow between terminais, which perature to exceed 110°F. Should temperature
will slowly discharge the battery. reach that figure, discontinue charging until the
For best results when cleaning, wash first with battery cools, then resume charging at a
iilute ammonia or baking soda solution, then lower rate.
~iush with plenty of clean water. Take care to
•:eep filler plugs tight só that no cleaning solution
snters the cells.
Tesíing State of Charge
A hydrometer is an incxpensive ínstrument
Battery Cables
which measures electrolyte specific gravity,
To ensure good electrical contact, cables mus t which is directly related to state of charge,
be clean and tight on battery terminais. If the To use a hydromeíer, place its suction tubc
battery or cable terminais are corroded, the into the first filler opening, then draw in just
cabíes should be disconnected and cleaned sepa- enough electrolyte to lift its float. Hold the
rately with a wire brush and baking soda solu- Ínstrument in a vertical position, and read spe-
tion. After cleaning, apply a very thin coating of cific gravity on the float scale, where the float
petroleum jelly to the battery terminais before stem emerges from the electrolyte (Figure 32).
installing the cables. After connecting the cables, Repeat this procedure for each battery cell.
apply a light coating to the connecíion. This pro- Electrolyte specific gravity varies with tem-
êdure will help to preveni future corrosion. perature, só it is necessary to apply a tempera-
ture correction to the measurement só obtained.
For each 10° that battery temperature ex-
Battery Cliargiug
ceeds 80°F, add 0.004 to the indicated specific
WARNING gravity. Likewise, subtract 0.004 from the indi-
Do not smoke or permit any open
cated value for each 10° that battery temper-
flame in any área where batíerics are
being charged, or immediately afíer ature is below 80°F.
charging. Highly explosive hydrogen Repeat this measurement for each battery cell.
gás is fonned during the charging pro- If there is more than 0.050 difference (50 points)
cess. Be sure to re-read Safety Pre- between cells, battery condition is questionable.
cautions in the beginning of t f tis State of charge of the battery may be deter-
section. mined from Table 2.
102 CHAPTER FIVE
Tafale2 STATE OF CHARGE

Take reading aí eye levei
Specific Gravity State of Charge
1.110- 1.130 Discharged

1.140-1.160 Almostdischarged
1.170-1.190 One-quarter charged
1.200- 1.220 One-half charged
1.230- 1.250 Three-quarters charged
1.260- 1.280 Fully charged
Don't measure specific gravity immediately

after adding waíer. Ride the machine a few miles
to ensure thorough mixing of the electrolyte.
It is most important to maintain batteries fully
charged during cold weather. A fully charged
battery freezes at a much lower temperature
than does one which is partially discharged.
Freezing temperature depends on specific gravity
(see Table 3).
TableS BATTERY FREEZING TEMPERATURE
Freezing Temperature
Specific Gravity (Degrees F)
1.100 18
1.120 13
1.140 8
1.160 1
1.180 —6
1.200 —17
1.220 —31
1.240 —50
1.260 —75
1.280 —92
CHAPTER SFX
CARBURETORS
For proper operation, a gasoline engine must allows fuel to flow past the valvc and seat into
:e supplied with fuel/air, mixed in proper the float bowl. As this occurs, the float is then
proportions by weight. A mixture in which there raised, pressing the valve against its seat, thereby
:s excess fuel is said to be rich. A lean mixture shutting off the flow of fuel. It can be seen from
:s one which contaíns insuíficient fuel. It is the this discussion that a small piece of dirt can be
:unction of the carburetors to supply the proper trapped bctwccn the valve and seat, preventing
mixture to the engine under ali operating the valve from closing and allowing fuel to rise
conditions. bcyond the normal levei, resulting in flooding.
Figure 2 illustrates this condiíion.
CARBURETOR OPERATION
Pilot System
Major functional systems of a carburetor are
a float and float valve mechanism for maintain- Under idle or low specd conditions, at less
;ng a constant fuel levei in the float bowl; a than ¥s throttle, the engine does not require
pilot system for supplying fuel at Io w speeds; a much fuel or air, and the throttlc valve is almost
main fuel system, which supplies the engine at closed. A separate pilot system is required for
médium and high speeds; and a starter system, operation under such conditions. Figure 3 illus-
•.vhich supplies the very rich mixture needed to trates the operation of the pilot system, Air is
start a cold engine. Operation of each system drawn through the pilot air inlet and controlled
is discussed in the following paragraphs. by íhe pilot air screw. The air is thcn mixcd with
fuel drawn through the pilot jet. The air/fuel
mixture then traveis from the pilot outlet into
Float Mechanism the main air passage, where it is further mixed
Figure l illustrates a typical float mechanism. with air prior to being drawn into the engine.
Proper operation of the carburetor is dependent The pilot air screw controls idle mixture.
on maintaining a constant fuel levei ín the car- If proper idle and low speed mixture cannot
buretor bowl. As fuel is drawn from the floaí be obíained within the normal adjustment range
bowl, the float levei drops. When the float drops, of the idle mixture screw, refer to Table l for
:he float valve moves away from its seat and possible causes.
104 CHAPTER SIX
Table l PILOT SYSTEM PROBLEMS
Too Rich
Fuel
Clogged pilot air intake
Clogged air passage
Needle seat
Clogged air bleed opening
Fuel neodle Pilot jet loose
Pivot
Too Lean
Fuel levei
Obstructed pilot jet
Float bowl Obstructed jet outlet
Worn throttle valve
Carburetor mounting loose
Main Fuel Sysíem

As the throítle is opened still more, up to
Fuel about !/í open, the pilot circuit begins to supply
less of the mixture to the engine, as the main
Valve seat fuel system, illustrated in Figure 4, begins to
Foreign
Needle matter
function. The main jet, needle jet, jet needle,
valve and air jet make up íhe main fuel circuit. As the
throítle valve opens more than about Vs of its
travei, air is drawn through the main port, and
(THROTTLE OPENING O TO '/8)
Pilot outlet
Pilot air screw

Pilot jet
i
CARBURETORS 105
®
(THROTTLE OPENING V& TO V4)
Main jet
B
passes under the throttle valve in the main bore. fuel to pass. Air passing through the air jet
Velocity of the air stream results in reduced passes to the needle jet to aid atomization of
pressure around the jet needle. Fuel then passes the fuel there.
through the main jet, past the needle jet and jet Figure 6 illustrates the circuit at high speeds.
needle, and into the air stream where it is atom- The jet needle is withdrawn alraost completely
ized and sent to the cylinder. As the throttle from the needle jet. Fuel fiow is then controlled
valve opens, more air flows through the carbu- by the main jet. Air passing through the air jet
retor, and the jet needle, which is attached to continues to aid atomization of the fuel as de-
the throttle slide, rises to permit more fuel scribed in the foregoing paragraphs.
to flow. Any dirt which collects in the main jet or in
A portion of the air bled past the air jet passes the needle jet obstructs fuel flow and causes a
through the needíe jeí bleed air inlet into the lean mixture. Any clogged air passage, such as
needle jeí, where the air is mixed with the main the air bleed opening or air jet, may result in an
stream and aíomized. overrich mixture. Other causes of a rich mixture
Airfíow at small throttle openings is con- are a worn needle jet, loose needle jet, or loose
trolled primarily by íhe cutaway on the throttle main jet. If the jeí needle is worn, it should be
slide. replaced; however, it may be possible to effect
As the throttle is opened wider, up to about a temporary repair by placing the needle jet clip
34 open, the circuit draws air from 2 sources, in a higher groove.
as shown in Figure 5. The first source is air
passing through the venturi; the second source Starter System
is through íhe air jet. Air passing through the A cold engine requires a mixture much richer
venturi draws fuel through the needle jet. The íhan normal. The starter system (Figure 7) sup-
jet needle is tapered, and íherefore allows more plies this fuel/air mixture for cold starts.
106 CHAPTER SIX
(THROTTLE OPENING VA TO 3/4)
(THROTTLE OPENING 3/4 TO F
CARBURETORS 107
(D
STARTER SYSTEM
(1) Starter
air passage
Starter plunger (2)
.Starteroutlet(5)
Emulsion tube Í4)
Starter jet (3)
When the starter lever is operated, startcr

plunger (2) opens. As the engine is cranked, air
miles, Poor engine performance, hesitation, and
litíle or no response to idle mixture adjustment
B
is drawn through staríer air passage (1). Engine are ali symptoms of possible carburetor mal-
vacuum in the starter plunger chamber draws function. As a general rule, it is good practice
fuel from starter jet (3). Fuel passing from the to overhaul the carburetors cach time you per-
starter jet íhrough emulsion tube (4) is mixed form a routine decarbonization of íhe engine.
with air which enters íhrough a small hole. The
fuel is then further mixed with air in the starter
plunger chamber, where it is atomized. This VM Carburetor Disassembly
atomized fuel/air mixture is then drawn into the VM carburetors are installed on GT380,
engine through starter outlet (5). GT550, and early GT750 models. Figure 8 is an
exploded view of a typical carburetor of íhis
CARBURETOR OVERHAUL íype. Rcfcr to it during disassembly and service.
There is no set rule regarding frequency of 1. Remove mixing chamber cover (Figure 9) if
carburetor overhaul. A carburetor used on a ií hás not been removed previously. Be careful;
machine used primarily for street riding may this cover is under spring pressure.
go 5,000 miles without atteníion. If the machine 2. Pull out íhroítle valve and its return spring
is used under very dusty condiíions, íhe carbu- (Figure 10).
retor might need an overhaul in less than 1,000 3. Remove float bowl (Figure 11).
108 CHAPTER SIX
TYPICAL VM CARBURETOR
1. Boot
2. Adjusier
3. Nut
4. Pilot air scrow
5. Spring
6. Throttie valve return spring
7. Drain plug gasket
8. Drain plug
9. Screw
10. LockwashGr
11. Throttie valve spring seat
12. Needle clip
13. Mainjet
14. Wasiíer
15. Jet needle
16. Throtíle valve
17. Floaí
18. Float chambergashet
19. Pilotjet
20. Needle nozzle
21. Needle valve
22. Floatpin
23. Valveseatgasket
24. Starter valve spring
25. Starter valve
26. Boost hose 7 8
CARBURETORS 109
8. Remove pilot jet (Figure 16).

9. Push out needle jet, using a plastic or fibcr
tool (Figure 17).
10. Remove idle speed and idle mixture screws.
Take care not to lose their springs.
11. Reverse the disassembly procedure to as-
4. Pull out float pivot shaft (Figure 12), then semble thc carburetor.
gently remove float assembly.
5. Remove float needle (Figure 13). BS Carburetor Disassembly
6. Remove main jet and its washer (Figure 14). BS carburetors are installed on laíer GT750
7. Remove float valve seat and its washer models. Disassembly and service procedures are
(Figure 15). generally similar to those of VM carburetors.
110 CHAPTER SIX
Figure 18 is an exploded view of this carburetor.

Rcfcr to it during disassembly and service.
Shake the float to check for gasoline inside.
Carlwretor Inspcction If fuel leaks inío íhe float, float chamber fuel
Clean ali paris in carburetor cleaning solvent. levei will ríse, resulting in an overrich mixture.
Dry them with compressed air. Clean jets and Replace the floaí if it is deformed or leaking.
other delicate parts with compressed air after Replace the float valve if its seating end is
the float bowl hás been removed. Never attempt scratched or worn. Press the float valve gently
to clean jeís or passages by running a wire with your finger and make sure that the valve
through them; to do só will cause damage and seats properly. If the float valve does not seat
destroy their calibration. Do not use compressed properly, fuel will overflow, causing an overrich
air to clean an assembled carburetor, since the mixture and flooding the float chamber when-
float and float valve can be damaged. ever the fuel petcock is open.
CARBURETORS 111
D
(13)
©—i)
BS CARBURETOR
1. Throttie valve stop screw 10. Piloí screw 18. Mainjet

2. Bracket 11. Fuel strainer 19. Float
3. Mixíng chamber top 12. Valve seat 20. Needle jet
4. Piston valve spring 13. Needle valve 21. Pílotjet
5. Jet needle set plate 14. Float arm pin 22. Throttie valve
6. Jet needle 15. Float chamber gasket 23. Starter plunger
7. Piston valve 16. Float chamber 24. Fuel hose
8. Starter rod 17. Drain plug 25. Pulley
9. Choke lever
112 CHAPTER SIX
CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT
Carburetor adjustment is not normally re-
quired except for occasional adjustment of idl-
ing speed, or at time of carburetor overhaul.
Refer to Chapter Two for rouíine adjustments
which are normally made during engine íune-up.
Float Levei
The machine was delivered wiíh the floaí levei
iidjusted correctly. Rough riding, a bent float
arm, or a worn float needle and seat can cause
the float levei to change.
Figure J9 illustrates float levei adjustment. A. Bend tang to adjust floaí levei
Remove the carburetor, then the float bowl.
Measure distance (D) between the gasket surface
and the top of the float, wiíh the carburetor in- Speed Range Adjustments
verted. Distance (D) must be equal for each float The carburetors on your machine were de-
and as spccified in Table 2. signed to provide the proper mixture under ali
operating conditions. Litíle or no benefit will
result from experimenting. However, unusual
operating conditions such as sustained operaíion
at high altitudes or unusually high or low tem-
peratures may make modificaíions to the stand-
ard specifications desirable. The adjustments
descríbed in the following paragraphs should
only be underíaken if the rider hás definite
reason to believe they are required. Make the
tests and adjustments in the order specified.
Make a road test at full íhroítle for final de-
termination of main jet size. To make such a
test, operate the moíorcycle at full throttle for
at least 2 minutes, then shut the engine off,
release the clutch, and bring the machine to
a stop.
If at full throttle, the engine runs "heavily,"
the main jet is too large, If lhe engine runs betíer
Table 2 FLOAT LEVEL
by closing the throtíle slightly, the main jet is
too small. The engine will run aí full íhrottle
Carburetor Distance D
evenly and regularly if the main jets are of
Model Inches (Millimeters)
correct size.
VM24SC 1.01 (25.7) After each such íest, remove and examine íhe
spark plugs. The insulators should have a lighí
VM28SC 1.01 (25.7)
tan color. If the insulaíor hás black sooty de-
VM32SC 1.06 (27.0)
posits, íhe mixture is too rich. If there are signs
BS40 1.09 (27.6) of intense heat, such as a blistered white appear-
ance, the mixture is too lean.
As a general rule, main jeí size should be
If floaí levei is not correct, bend tang on the reduced approximately 5 percent for each 3,000
float (A, Figure 20) as required. feet (1,000 meters) above sea levei.
CARBURETORS 113
Refer to Table 3. Note that the center carbu- 3. Turn in each idle speed screw equally until
retor main jeí is different from that in each of the engine runs slower and begins to falter.
the left and right cylinders on models GT550 4. Adjust each pilot air screw as required to
and GT750. make the engine run smoothly.
Table 3 MAIN JETS 5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 to achieve íhe lowest
stable idle speed,
Model Standard Main Jet Next, determine proper throttle valve cut-
away size. With the engine running at idle, open
VM24SC 80
VM28SC (center)
íhe throttle. If the engine does not accelerate
97.5
smoothly from idle, turn each pilot air screw in
VM28SC (left and right) 95
VM32SC (center)
(clockwise) slightly to richen the mixture. If the
100
102.5
condition still exists, return each air screw to its
VM32SC (left and right)
original position and replace each throttle valve
BS40 (center) 107.5
BS40 (left and right)
with one which hás a smaller cutaway. Tf engine
110
operation is worsened by turning the air screw,
replace each throttle valve with one which hás
Table 4 lists sympíoms caused by rich and a larger cutaway. Ali carburetors should have a
lean mixtures. throttle valve with the same size cutaway.
For operation at 1A-Â throttle opening, ad-
Table 4 MIXTURE TROUBLESHOOTING justment is made with the jet needle. Operate
the engine at ¥2 throttle in a manner similar to
Condition Symptom
that for the full throttle íesí described earlier, To
Rich Rough idle , richen the mixture, place the jet needle clip in a
mixture Black exhaust smoke lower groove. Converseíy, placing the clip in
Hard starting, especially when hot a higher groove leans the mixture. Note that the
"Blubbering" under acceleration center carburetor on model GT750 uses a dif-
Black deposits in exhaust pipe ferent needle jet than do the carburetors for the
Gas-fouled spark plug left and right cylinders.
Poor gás mileage A summary of carburetor adjustments is
Engine performs worse giveninTableS.
as it warms up
Lean Backfiring CARBURETOR COMPONENTS

mixture Rough idle The foliowing paragraphs desenhe various
Overheating components of the carburetor which may be
Hesitation upon acceleration changed to vary performance characteristics.
Engine speed varies at fixed throttle
Loss of power Throttle Valve
White color on spark plug insulator The throtíle valve cutaway controls airflow at
Poor acceleration
small throttle openings. Cutaway sizes are num-
bered. Larger numbers permit more air to flow
at a given throttle opening and result in a leaner
Adjust the pilot air screws as follows. mixture. Converseíy, smaller numbers resulí in
1. Turn in each pilot air screw until ií seats a richer mixture.
lightly, then back it out about l l /2 turns, except
for BS40 carburetors. Back out idle mixture Jet Needle
screws on íhese carburetors 3Á turn. The jet needle, together with the needle jet,
2. Start the engine and warm it to normal oper- controls mixture at médium speeds. As the
ating temperature. throttle valve rises to increase airflow through
114 CHAPTER SIX
Table 5 CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT SUMMARY
Throttle opening Adjustment If too rich If too loa n
0-i/s Airscrew Turn out Turn in

ys - v* Throttle vá Ive Use larger Use smalier
cutaway cutaway cutaway
>/4 - % Jet needle Raiseclip Lower clip
%-full Main jet Use smalier Use larger
number number
the carburetor, the jet needle rises with it. The MISCELLANEOUS
tapercd portion of the jet needle rises from the CARBURETOR PROBLEMS
needle jet and allows more fuel to flow, thereby Water in the carburetor fíoat bowl and stick-
providing the engine with the proper mixture at ing carburetor slide valves can result from care-
up to about % throttlc opening. Grooves at the less washing of the motorcycle. To remedy the
top of the jet needle permit adjustment of mix- problem, remove and clean the carburetor bowl,
ture ratio in the médium speed range. main jet, and any other affected parts. Be sure
to cover the air intake when washing the
Needle Jet machine.
The needle jet operates with the jet needle. Be sure that the ring nut on the top of the
Several holes are drilled through the side of the carburetor is secure. Also be sure that carbu-
needle jet. These holes meter airfíow from íhe retor mounting bolts are tight.
air jet. Air from the air jet is bled into the If gasoline leaks past íhe float bowl gasket,
needle jet to assist in atomization of fuel. high speed fuel starvation may occur. Varnish
deposíts on the outside of the float bowl are
Main Jet evidence of íhis condition.
The main jet controls the mixture at full Dírt ín the fuel may lodge in the float valve
throttle, and hás some effect at lesser throttle and cause an overrich' mixture. As a temporary
openings. Each main jet is stamped with a measure, tap the carbureíor lightly with any
number. Fuel flow is approximaíely propor- convenient tool to dislodge the dirt. Clean the
tional to the number. Larger numbers provide fuel tank, peícock, fuel line, and carburetor at
a richer mixture. the first opporíunity, should this siíuation occur.
CHAPTER SEVEN
FRAME, SUSPENSION, AND STEERING
FRAME 4. Disconnect the wiring from the handlebar

inside the headlamp housing.
Frames on these machines are of welded steel
:-jbing (Figure 1). Service on the frame is Umited 5. Remove the clamp bolís, then lift off the
:o inspection for bending of. the frame members handlebar.
:: cracked welds. Examine the frame carefully
Inspection
:r; the event that the machine hás been subjected
:o a collision or hard spill. Chcck the throttie cablc for smooth opcration
and for strctching of the inner cable. Be surc that
HANDLEBAR ali controls opcrate smoothly. Lubricate the
íhrottle cables, also the throttie gríp. Tf the ma-
The handlebar is made from solid drawn steel chine was spilled, check for bending of the
:ubing. Most of the manual controls (Figure 2) handlebar.
-ré mounted on the handlebar assembly. Wiring
from the switches on the handlebar assembly is Reassembly
routed to the headlight assembly, where it ís con- Reverse disassembly procedure to assemble
nected to the main wiring harness. handlebar. Observe the following notes:
Disassembly 1. Be sure that no wires are pinched between
the handlebar and switch bodies.
Handlebar removal is generally similar for ali
2. Adjust throttie grip íension as desired with
models. The following steps are set forth as a
guide: the throttie grip adjuster. Be sure to tighten the
locknut after adjustment.
!. Pull the clutch cable, then disconnect it from
the clutch lever. 3. Be sure to install new cotter pins in the
handlebar lever bolts.
2. Loosen the adjustment nut at the front brake,
then remove the cable at the front brake hand
lever. FRONT FORKS
3. Remove the mixing chamber caps from each Figure 3 is an exploded view of a typical front
carburetor, íhen remove the throttie cables from fork assembly. Service procedures are generally
the throtíle valves. similar for ali models.
116 CHAPTER SEVEN
ta. o.
E E E E
E o)
> .,_ :> ^ ^ ^«

5 % Q o o o
omejocjcjcio
^ E E E E E E E
FRAME, SUSPENSION, AND STEERING 117
HANDLEBAR
1. Handlebar
2. Handlebar clamp, upper
3. Handlebar clamp, lower
4. Handlebar washer, lower
5. Nut
6. Cotter pin
7. Bolt
8. Lockwasher
9. Handle clamp bolt
10. Rearviewmirror, RH
11. Band
Removal 2. Remove the snap ring at the top of the outer

1. Place a sturdy box under the engine só that íube (Figure 4). The whole assembly may then
the front wheel is free of the ground. be pulled apart.
2. Remove the speedometer cable at the front
brake panei.
3. Disconnect the front brake cable aí the front
brake. On models with dual front dísc brakes,
unbolt both caliper assemblies from the fork
sliders.
4. Remove the front wheel.
5. Remove the front fender.
6. Remove the headlamp and housing.
7. Remove the upper and lower fork attach-
ment bolts.
S. Pull íhe fork tubes downward for remo vai.
3. Remove the bolt at the lower end of the outer
Disassembíy tube (Figure 5).
1. Drain the oíl from the fork. 4. Remove the oil seal.
118 CHAPTER SEVEN
FRONT FORK
L Front fork damper assembly
2. Irinertubc
3. Outertube
4. Bolí
5. Drain pluggasket
6. Front fork spring
7. Inner tubcguídc
8. Inneríubc piston
9. Axls; holder
35
10. Damper
11. Piston snap ring
12. Volvcstopper ring
13. Piston stopper ring
14. Circlip
15. Oitseal
16. Oilseal
17. Nut
18. Lockwasfier
19. Washer
20. Boot
21. 0-ring
22. Inner tube cap
20
23. Fork upper bracket

24. Fork lower bracket
25. Bootsguíde
26. Steering outer lower raco
27. Headlamp RH bracket
29. Headlamp bracket seat
30. Headlamp bracket cushion
31. Headlamp bracket cap
<Í. 32. Headlamp bracket upper cushion
33. Fork upper bracket bolt
34. Fork upper bracket washer
Ti 35.
36.
Bolt
Washer
37. Nut
38. Lockwasher
39. Bolt
40. Loekwasher
41. Bolt
42. Lockwasher
Table l FORK OIL CAPACITY
Front Fork (each leg)

Model cc (oz.)
GT380 J, K 210 (7.1)

GT380 (alf others) 145 (4.9)
GT550J, K, L 235 (7-9)
GT550 (ali others) 160 (5.4)
GT750 J, K 235 (7.9)
GT750 (ali others) 160 (5.4)
2. Use a seal driver (Figure 6) to install the oil

seal.
Inspection 3. Install each fork spring with its tapercd end

1. Assemble the inner and outer tubes, then slide downward (Figure 7).
:nem together. Check for looseness, noise, or
bínding. Replace defective parts.
2. Any scratches or roughness on the inner tube ®
:n the área where it passes through the oil seal
-.vill damáge the oil seal. Examine this área care-
íully.
3. Inspect the dust seal carefully. If this seal is
damaged, foreign material will entcr the fork.
4. Check the fork spring for wcar. If you replace
3ne spring, replace the other one also.
THIS SIDE DOWN
Reassembly
Reverse the disassembly procedure to reas-
semble the forfc. Be sure to replace the oil seal. STEERING STEM
Clean the inside of the outer tube with solvent The steering stem is made from steel and cast
before reassembly. Be sure to refill the fork legs iron. The steering stem pivoís on bali bearings
with the proper quantity of oil as shown in within the steering head.
Table 1. Also observe the following notes.
1. The bolt shown in Figure 5 must be installed Remova!
and tightened with the fork completely bot- 1. Remove the steering stem attaching bolt,
tomed, but without the fork spring installed. íhen the two fork attaching bolts.
120 CHAPTER SEVEN
2. Remove the steering stem lock nut and lock- between the steering stem and steering head, but
washer. the front fork turns smoothly and freely.
3. Loosen the steering stem nut slightly, then
raise and support the steering stem. DRIVE CHAIN
4. Remove the steering stem nut by hand. The drive chain becomes worn after prolonged
5. Pull the steering stem downward to remove use. Wear in the pins, bushings, and rollers
it from the steering head. Be careful that you causes the chain to strctch. Sliding between the
don't drop and damage any of the steel balis. roller surfacc and sprocket teeth also coníributes
6. Remove the inner races by tapping them out to wear.
with a long punch and hammer.
Inspection
7. Use a hammer and chisel to remove the lowcr
ou ter race. Inspect the drive chain periodically. Pay par-
ticular attention to cracks in the rollers and link
Inspcction plates, and replace the chain if there is any doubt
about its condition.
1. Check the balis and races for wear, cracks,
or rust. Replace the entirc bearing asscmbly if Adjust free play in the chain só that there is
about 0.6-0.8 in. (15-20mm) vertical play
any part is damaged. Do not use any combina-
tion of new and used parts. (Figure 8) in the center of the chain run with
the machine on the ground. Be sure to adjust
2. Chcck the steering stem for bending or
each side equally. The rear brake is affected by
cracked wclds.
any chain adjustment. Be sure to adjust the rear
Installation brake after you adjust the chain.
If the chain hás become só worn that it must
1. Tap the inner bearing races into position wíth be replaced, use a chain breaker to remove it
a bearing installation tool. (Figure 9). Suzuki bikes are equipped with flare-
2. Pack the lower inner race with grease, then type chain joints (Figure 10) for additional chain
install the steel balis. The grease will hold the strength.
balis in position. Clean the chain, then lubricate it at intervals
3. Pack the uppcr inner race with grease, then not exceeding 1,000 miles (1,500 km), or more
iastall the steel balis. often if necessary.
4. Tnscrt the steering stem into the steering head.
5. Install the steering síem nut, lockwasher, and WHEELS AND TIRES
lock nut, Various sizes of wheels and tires are installed
6. Tighten the lock nut, then turn the steering on Suzuki motorcycles. Consult the spetifica-
stem nut counterclockwise until there is no play tions to determine the size of your machine.
0.6-0.8 in. (15-20mm)

Wheel Balance
An unbalanced wheel results in unsafe riding
conditions. Dependíng on the degree of unbal-
ance and the speed of the moíorcycle, the rider
may experience anything from a mild vibraíion
to a violent shimmy which may even result in
loss of control. Apply balance weights (Fig-
ure 11) to the spokes on the lighí side of the
wheel to correct th i s condítion.
EMBOSSED NUMBER
SHOWS THE WEIGHT
Before you attempt to balance the wheel,

check to be sure that the wheel bearings are in
good condition and propcrly lubricated, and that
the brakes do not drag, só that the wheel rotatcs
freely. With íhe wheel frec of the ground, spin
it slowly and allow it to come to rcst by iíself.
Rims Add balance weights to the spokes on the light
side as required, só that the wheel comes to rest
The rim supports the tire and provides rigidity at a different position each time it is spun. Bal-
to the wheel assembly. A rim band protects the ance weights are avaiíable in measures of l O, 20,
inner tube from abrasion. and 30 grams. Remove the drive chain when you
balance the rear wheel.
Spokcs
Front Hub
The spokes support the weight of the motor-
cycle and rider, and transmit tractive and braking Figure 12 is an explodcd view of a typical
forces. front wheel and hub assembly. The entire hub
Check the spokes periodically for looscncss assembly rotates on two bali bearings. The
or bending. A bent or otherwise faulty spoke will speedometer gears transmit front wheel rotation
advcrsely affect neighboring spokes, and should to the speedometer.
therefore be replaced immediately. To remove If the bearings are worn, tap them out with a
the spoke, completely unscrew the threaded small hammer and long punch, then replaee
poríion, then remove the bent end from the hub. them. Examine the lips of the oil seals for wear
or damage, then replaee them if necessary.
Spokes tend to loosen as the machine is used.
Retighten each spoke one turn, beginning with Examine the brake drum for groovcs or
those on one side of the hub, then those on the scratches.
other side. Tighten the spokes on a new machine
after the first 50 miles of operation, then at Rear Hub
50-mile intervals until they no longer loosen. Figures 13 and 14 are exploded views of
If the machine is subjected to particularly typical rear wheels and hubs. Service on the rear
severe service, check the spokes frequently. hub is similar to that on the front hub, with the
122 CHAPTER SEVEN
FRONT WHEEL
73
1. Front wheel hub 13. Circlip 25. Cotterpin 37. Front Iorque link bolt
2
2. Front brake anchor panei 14. Front axle 26. Cam lever return spring 38. Front Iorque link washer w
3. Front brake shoe 15. Front axle spacer 27. Front brake cam lever bolt 39. Wheel rim
c
4. Brake shoe spring 16. Front axle nut 28. Nut 40. Front spoke set •o
5. Front brake cam 17. Front hub bearing spacer 29. Washer 41. Wheel spoke, inner
Z
6. Front brake cam washer 18. Bearing 30. Brake cam lever rod set 42. Wheel spoke, outer HH
o
7. Speedometer gear 19. Bearing 31. Nut 43. Spoke nípple z
8. Speedometer pinion 20. Speedometer pinion oil seal 32. Front hub oil seal 44. Wheel balance weight (1) "^
9. Spaedometer pinion bushing 21. Front brake cam lever (1) 33. Front hub dust seal cover 45. Wheel balance weight (2) z
34. Front brake cam 0-ring 46. Front tire
o
10. Spesdometer gear thrust washer 22. Front brake cam lever (2) «J
11. Speedometer gear driver 23. Cam lever pivot pin 35. Anchor panei oil seal 47. Wheel inner tube H
M
12. Speedometer thrust washer 24. Washer 36. Front torque link 48. Wheel inner tube protector M
S
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124 CHAPTER SEVEN
45 44
with fresh grease. Be sure that wheel grease

seals are in good condition.
INTERNAL
EXPANDING BRAKES
Earlier models are equipped wiíh internai ex-
panding brakes on both wheels.
REAR WHEEL Front wheels are equipped with dual leading
1. Rearwheel hub
shoe front brakes. Two camshafts, one for each
2. Rear brake anchor panei shoe, are used in this design. As each camshaft
3. Brake shoe spring turns, its forces its associated shoe into contact
4. Rear brake cam
5. Rear brake cam washer
with the brake drum. As the drum turns, its
6. Rearsprocketdrum movement tends to increase pressure on the
7. Rear hub shock absorber brake shoe against the brake drum, thereby in-
8. Rearaxle
9. Rearaxle RH spacer
creasing braking power.
10. Sprocket drum retainer Later models with front disc brakes have
11. Rear axle spacer, LH internai expanding brakes on rear wheels only.
12. Rearaxle nutwasher
13. Rearaxle nut
14. Cotter pin
15. Rear brake shoe Disasscmbly
16. Rear hub bearing spacer
17. Rear hub bearing, RH
Pull the brake shoes, with its springs attached,
18. Rear hub bearing, LH from the brake panei. Remove the springs with
19. Rear sprocket drum bearing plicrs, íf neccssary, after íhe shoes are rcmoved.
20. Rear brake cam lever
21. Bolí
Install thc shoes with the springs attached.
22. Nut
23. Washer
24. Cam lever return spring Inspcction
25. Sprocket drum oil seal
26. Rear brake cam 0-ring Examine the brake lining for oil or other
27. Rear sprocket foreign material. Dirt imbedded in the brake
28. Rear sprocket bolt lining may be removed with a wire brush. Re-
29. Nut
30. Rear sprocket lockwasher place boíh brake shoes if the lining is worn ex-
31. Chain adjuster cessively. Measure brake lining wear as shown
32. Chain adjusíerbolt in Figure 17. Replace both brake shoes if either
33. Nut
34. Chain adjuster support is worn to less than wear limit givcn in Toblc 2.
35. Bolí Measure inner diamctcr of each brakc drum.
36. Washer Replace any drum worn beyond the wear limit,
37. Rear tire
38. Wheel inner tube
See Tablc 3.
39. Inneríube protector If the brake shoe return springs are worn or
40. Wheel rim stretched, thc brakc shoes wiíl not retract fully
41. Wheel spoke, inner
42. Wheel spoke, outer and the brakes may drag. Replace the springs if
43. Wheel spoke nípple they are stretched.
44. Wheel balance weight (1)
45. Balance weight The brake camshaft O-ring prevenis water or
dust from corroding thc camshaft. Be surc that
the dust seal is in good condition and is propcrly
installed.
Replace the camshaft if it is worn or badly
corroded. To remove the camshaft, tap it out
with a soft mallet. Remove any light corrosion
with emery paper. Lubricate the camshaft with
126 CHAPTER SEVEN
n co cri
h-
LU
LJ
LU
I O
_J
<
_J
LJ LJ
LU
o:
X
«j .O
=3 o
5E 3:
o: aí a: a: cê cê o:
< CO
128 CHAPTER SEVEN
Lock nuí Brake cam lever rod
Brake
ca m
Brako cam Ist lever

Brake wire
Table 2 BRAKE SHOE LIMITS
Wear Limit
GT3SO 6.93 (176)

GT550 7.64 (194)
GT750 7.64 (194)
Table 3 BRAKE DRUM DIAMETER
Wear Limit
GT380 7.11 (180.7) perpendicular to the brake lever wh e n the front

GT550 7.90 (200.7)
brake is fully applied (Figure 20).
GT750 7.90 (200.7)
grease before installation. Check the camshaft

for free rotation.
Front Brnkc Adjustmenf

Do not adjust the brake lever connector
(Figure 18) except after replacement of brake
shoes or if front brake performance hás becorne
poor as a resull of only one shoe contacting the
brake drum. To adjust the connector lever, pro-
ceed as follows.
1. See Figure 19. Loosen cable adjuster (A). Rear Brake Adjustmenf
2. Loosen connecting rod locknut (B). Adjust íhe rear brake by turning the adjusí-
3. Lightly press lever (C), and while holding it ment nut on the rear brake lever. There should
in position, turn the connecting rod until lever be 0.8-1.2 in. (20-30mm) free-play at the brake
(D) does not move. pedal (Figure 21) before braking action occurs.
4. Tighten connecting rod locknut (B).
5. Turn each cable adjuster at the front brake DISC BRAKES
lever to provide about one inch (20-30mm) Later models are equipped with disc brakes
free-play at the brake lever, with the equalizer on front wheels. Model GT750 hás dual discs
and calipers for greater stoppíng power. Service

procedures for ali models are similar; differences Brake fluid is hydroscopic, that is, it absorbs
are pointed out where they exist. Figure 22 moisture from the atmosphere, só ceríain pre-
shows location of major disc brake componenís. cautions must be íaken in its use and handling.
1. Never use brake fluid from old or unsealed
containers.
2. Do not replenish thc rcscrvoir whcn therc
Master cylindcr is a possibility of rain entering it.
Front brake hose 3. Change brake fluid yearly, or immediately if
Brake lever there is reason to believe it may be contaminated
with water. See Changing Brake Fluid.
R.ight brake hose

CAUTION
Brake fluid will damagc paint and in-
strntncnt íenses. To avoid spnrting
Brake line
Caliper
brake fluid, do noí operate brake lever
when reservoir cnver is removed.
Brake line clip Front
brake
disc
Bleeding Brakcs
Air entrapped in the brake system causes
senous loss of braking power. Symptoms of this
condition are a soft, spongy feel, and increased
travei of the brake hand lever. When this sítu-
Brake Fluid
ation occurs, it is ncccssary to blecd the system.
To check brake fiuid levei, the motorcycle Note that this operation is much easicr to per-
must be upright and levei. It is suggested that il forni if an assistant is available.
be placed on its center stand, with the front 1. Locate the bleeder screw, then remove its
wheel pointed straight ahead. dusí cover (Figure 24). On Model GT750, per-
Refer to Figure 23. Remove cover (A) and form this operaííon on the left caliper first.
diaphragm (B). If brake fluid levei is below mark
2. Slip one end of a length of plastic íubing
(C), replenish with brake fluid metting specifi-
over the bleeder scrcw. Submerge the other end
cation DOT 3 or DOT 4. Brake fluid meeting
Ín a vessel containíng brake fluid (Figure 25).
those specifications will be só marked on its
container.
WARNING NOTE: The end of thc tubing must
Do noí use any other type fíitid ín this rcmain submerged during thc entire
system. hiccding procedure.
130 CHAPTER SEVEN
Changing Brake Fluid

Moisture tcnds to accumulate in brake fluid,
thereby lowering its boiling point and causing a
loss of braking povver. It is íherefore recom-
mended that fluid be replaced at least once a
year, or more often if neccssary.
To change brake fluid, open bleeder screw,
then operaíe the brake hand lever until no more
brake fluid runs out. Refill the reservoir, then
bleed the system as described in the foregoing
section.
Brake Pad Inspcctíon

Inspect brake pads periodically. Replace them
as a set whenever any pad is worn down to the
red line marked on its circumference. Pads
should also be repfaced in the event of con-
tamination by oil or grease.
Pad Rcplaceimmt (GT380 and GT550)

Before replacing brake pads, remove ali dirt
and foreign material from the front wheel and
brake caliper.
1. Support motorcycle só that the front wheel
3. Be sure reservoir is full. It must be at least l/2 is free.
full during this entire procedure. Replace its 2. Remove front wheel and brake disc as an
cover. assembly.
4. Prcssurize the system by operating the hand 3. Remove pad No. 2 by taking out its reíaining
lever several times, then holding it tightly in screw (Figure 26).
brake-applied position.
5. Open bleeder valve ¥2 turn, then press brake
lever to its fully applied position. Tighten the
bleeder screw. Do not rclease brake lever until
bleeder screw is tightened.
6. Repcat Steps 4 and 5 until no more air bub-
bles are expelled, and hand lever action is firm.
NOTE: Check brake ftuid levei peri-

odically during this procedure. Reser-
voir must remain at least l/2 full.
4. Operate brake lever several times to force
1. Remove bleeder hose and replace dust cover. out pad No. 2.
Replenish reservoir. 5. Refer to Figure 27. Apply a very light coat
8. On model GT750, repeat Steps l through 7 of brake pad grease fsupplied in pad repíacc-
for the right-hand caliper assembly. ment kit) to the circumference and back surface
9. Do not reuse brake fluid drained from the of pad No. 1. Do not apply any other type of
system. grease, and do not allow any grease to get on
FRAME, SUSPENSION, AND STEERJNG 131
the pad's friction surface (Figure 28). Do not

apply any grease to pad No. 2.
Brake disc side
Do not apply grease

atthis portion
Portion requiring
grease 5. Replace left caliper assembly.
6. Inscrt a spaccr, approxímately Í4 in. (6mm)
Piston side
thíck betwcen both pads of the riglit caliper
assembly. Hold this spacer in position with a
rubber band.
6. Press pad No. l into caliper holdcr.
7. Replace both pads in the left caliper. Follow
7. Install pad No. 2, then replace its retaining
Steps 3 through 7 of foregoing Pad Replucement
screw. Be sure that pad No. 2 is not cocked
(GT380 and GT550).
when it is installed.
8. Install front wheel. 8. Remove spacer from caliper and install it
between pads of left caliper.
9. Operate brake lever several times.
9. Replace pads in righí caliper, foliowing samc
10. Bleed brake system if necessary.
procedure.
Pad Replacemcnt (GT750) 10. Remove spacer from left caliper.
11. Remove left caliper assembly and support
Before replacing brake pads, remove ali dirt it out of the way. Do not disconnect brake line.
and foreign material from the front wheel and
brake caliper assemblies. 12. Tnstall front wheel.
1. Refer to Figure 29. Remove cover (1) and 13. Install left caliper assembly.
guide (2). 14. Replace cover and guide.
2. Loosen both left caliper retaining bolts (3), 15. Operate brake hand lever several times.
as shown in Figure 30. Do not disconnect the 16. Bleed brake system if necessary.
brake line.
3. Remove left caliper assembly, then support
it with string or wíre. Master Cylinder Removal
4. Remove front wheel and both brake discs as Figure 31 is an exploded view of the masíer
an assembly. cylinder on models GT380 and GT550. Master
132 CHAPTER SEVEN
MASTER CYLINDER
Mastcrcylinder assembly
Secondary cup
Primflry cup
Síop plate
Snap ring
Boot
7. Check value
8. Diaphrarjm
9. Diopliragm plate
10. Reservoir cap
11. Washer
12. Bolt
13. Master cylinder boot
14. Bolt
15. Washer
16. Brakcfront hosc
17. Rieht brnke hosc
IS. Brakc hose guitíe
19. Nut
20. Lôckwashcr
21. Grommet
22. Brake hose urommet
23. Brake hose damp
24. Hose clamp fock plaíc
25. Grommet
26. Lockwasher
27. Screw
28. Brake line cover
29. Brake line
30. Spring
31. Piston
32. Boot plate
33. Boot stopper
cylinders on GT750 models are similar (Fig- Master Cylinder Inspection

ure 32), buí díffer slightly in details. Refer to 1. Measure master cylinder inner diameter. Re-
the applicable illustration during service. Num- place it if its inner diameter exceeds the wear
bers in parentheses refer to the legends in these limit specified in Table 4.
illustrations. 2. Measure piston diameter as shown in Fig-
1. Remove stoplight switch. ure 33. Replace it if it is worn to its wear limit.
2. Place a rag under union bolt (14) to catch any See Table 5.
brake fluid, then remove union bolt to díscon-
nect brake hose from master cylinder.
3. Drain brake fluid from reservoir.
Master Cylinder Disassembly

1. Remove brake lever.
2. Remove boot stopper, then boot. Take carc
not to damage boot.
3. Remove snap ring (5).
4. Remove piston, primary cup, spring, and
check valve.
Master Cylinder Reassembly
NOTE: Jt is recommended tliat a new Reversc the dísassembly proccdure to reas-
master cylinder kit be installed when- semblc the masíer cylinder. Be sure that ali parts
ever master cylinder is disasscmbled. are installed corrcctly. Figure 34 illustratcs
proper assembly order and orientation. Blecd
5. Clean ali parts in fresh brake fluíd only. the system after installation.
When installing master cylinder, be sure that
WARNING there is abouí 0.08 in. (2mm) gap bctwecn it and
Ncver use any peíroleum solvents on the switch housing (Figure 35). Note also that it
brake syslem componcnts cxposccl to should be installed só that its cover is horizontal
brake fluid. with the bikc in normal riding position.
Table 4 MASTER CYLINDER INNER DIAMETER
Standard Diameter Wear Limit

M ode l Inch (Millimeters) Inch (Millimeters)
GT380 0.5512 - 0.5527 (14.00 - 14.04) 0.5531 (14.05)

GT550 0.5512 - 0.5227 (14.00 - 14.04) 0.5531 (14.05)
GT750 0.6248 - 0.6264 (15.87 -15.91) 0.6268 (15.92)
Table 5 MASTER CYLINDER PISTON DIAMETER
Standard Diameter Wear Limit

Model Inch (Millimeters) Inch (Millimeters)
GT380 0 5496 - 0 5504 (13 96 - 13.98) 0 5488 (13 94)
GT550 0 5496 - 0 5504 (13 96 - 13.98) 0 5488 (13 94)
GT750 0.6232 - 0 6240 (15 83 - 15.85) 0.6224 (15 81)
134 CHAPTER SEVEN
MASTER CYLINDER
GT750 MODELS
1. Master cylinder assembly

2. Secondary cup
3. Primary cup
4. Plate stop
5. Snap ring
6. Boot
7. Check valve
8. Diaphragm
9. Diaphraem plate
10. Reservoir cap
11. Washer
12. Bolt
13. Masíer cylinder boot
14. Union bolt
15. Washer
16. Front brake hose
17. Brake iiose
18. Brake hose Ruide
19. Grommet
20. Grommet
21. Right hrakc line
22. Left brako line
23. Right bfake line cover
24. Left brake line cover
25. Left brake line guide
26. Screw
27. Lockwasher
28. Three-way joint
29. Spring
30. Piston
31. Boot plate
32. Boot stopper
Throttle grip
Reservoir cap
Diaphragm plate
Diaphragm
- -Reservoir
Reservoír
Throttle grip
— 0.08 in. (2mm)
Brukíí Hoses and Tubing

5. Separatc inner and outer caliper bodics.
Periodically check hoses, tubing, and con- 6. Remove caliper holder.
nections for wear, swelling, corrosion, leaks, or
7. Remove O-rings from caliper shafts.
any other íype of deterioration. Figure 36 illus-
trates locations to check. 8. Remove caliper shafts.
9. Remove piston boot.
Caliper Remova! and Disassembly 10. Refer to Figure 39. Force out piston by
Figure 37 is an exploded view of a typical blowing compressed air into caliper assembly.
caliper assembly. Refer to it during service. Catch piston as it comes out.
1. Remove brake line. 11. Remove piston seal (Figure 40).
2. Remove retaining bolts.
3. Remove caliper assembly.
4. Remove both sbaft bolts (Figure 38).
NOTE: It /i rccommendcd that a cali-

per overhaiíl kit be installed whenever
caliper is disassembled.
136 CHAPTER SEVEN
CD
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
1. Caliper assembly
2. Caliper holder
3. Caliper stopper
4. Stopper rubber
5. Píston
6. Piston seal
7. Pad No. l
8. Pad No. 2
9. Screw
10. Lockwasher
11. Caiiper shaft
12. Axie dust cover
13. Caliper axle 0-ring
14. Piston boot
15. Bleedercap
16. Bleeder
17. Bolt
18. Washer
19. Lockwasher
20. Caliper emblem
Caliper Inspection
1. Measure inner bore of caliper. Replace if it
is worn to more than 1.5047 in. (38.22mm). Caliper Rcosscmbly
Standard bore is 1.5031 to 1. 5039 in. (38.18 Caliper reassembly and installation is gen-
to 38.20mm). erally the reverse of remova!. Observe the
2. Measure piston outer diameter (Figure 41). following notes.
Replace if it is worn to less than 1.5000 in. 1. Refer to Figure 42. Apply caliper shaft grease
(38.10mm). Standard pisíon diameteris 1.5020- (available at Suzuki dealers) to both shafts in
1.5031 in. (38.15-38.18mm). the área shown. Do noí substitute another type
3. If piston seals must be reused, be sure they of grease.
are in good condition. 2. Lubricate piston and its bore liberally with
4. Check piston boot for damage. brake fluid before assembly.
5. Be sure that pads are not worn to their 3. Be sure thaí piston seal (Figure 43) is not
limit lines. cocked or twisted when it is installed.
•_r_t_ i fc.
.
place the disc if it is worn to 0.236 in. (ô.OOmm)

or less at any point.
4. Refer to the applicable section for ínstallation 3. Be sure that no oil or grcase gcts onto the
of brake pads. brake disc.
5. Bleed system after assembly. 4. If the brake disc is rcmovcd, torque Í!s re-
6. Ride the bike, then check that front wheel taining bolts to 11-18 ft.-lb. (1.5-2.5 mkg). Be
does not drag. sure that lockwasher tabs are secure.
NOTE: // is recommended that a cali-

per overhanl kit bc installed a! intervals SHOCK ABSORBERS
noí cxcceding 2 years.
Figure 46 is a sectional view of a typical rear
shock absorber. The major parts of the shock
Brake Disc absorber are a spring, and hydraulic damping
mechanism encased within the inner and outer
Brake discs are made of stainless stecl and shells. The shock absorbers may be adjusíed
should have a long service life. Note that brake to suit various riding condiíions. Adjust both
disc runout or wear can, however, adversely sidcs equally.
affect brake performance. To remove the shock absorbers, remove the
1. Refer to Figure 44. Set up a dial indicator só mounting bolts. Do not damagc the rubbcr bush-
that runout may bc measured. Standard runout ings as you remove and rcplace the bolts.
tolerance is 0.004 in. (O.lmm). If runout cx- Check the damping force by attempting to
ceeds 0.012 in. (0.3mm), the cause may be compress and extend the units quickly. Tf there
either the front wheel bearing or the disc itself. is not marked difference between the cffort
Replace whichever is defective. required to operate the unít quickly, or slowly,
2. Measure brake disc thickness (Figure 45). or if there are any oil leaks, replace the shock
Standard thickness is 0.276 in. (7.00mm). Re- absorber.
138 CHAPTER SEVEN
Spring Adjuster hole
• Adjuster cam
Cylinder
-Síop cushion -Oil seal
SWINGING ARM Reassembly

Figure 47 illustrates a typical swinging arm 1. Grease the pivot shaft liberally.
assembly. The entire assembly pivots up and 2. Apply thread lock cement to the pivoí shaft
down on the pivot shaft. The rear part of the threads before you install the nut.
swinging arm is attached to the motorcycle
frame through the shock absorbers. AIR CLEANER
The air cleaner filters abrasive particles from
air on its way to the engine. If the air cleaner
Disassembly becomes clogged, power drops and fuel con-
1. Remove the drive chain. sumptíon increases. Remove dirt from the air
2. Remove the rear sprocket. cleaner by brushing or blowing with an air hose.
3. Remove the pivot shaft. Never operate the bike without an air cleaner.
Since fuel and air passes through the crankcase,
4. Remove the swinging arm.
dirt drawn in may damage crankshaft and con-
necting rod bearings in only a few miles.
Inspecilon EXHAUST PIFES

The pivot scctíon is susceptible to wear, espe- AND MUFFLERS
cially in the bushings and shaft. Examine these Carbon deposits within the exhaust pipe and
paris carefully. Replace the pivoit shaft if it is raufller cause the engine to lose power. Remove
bení more than 0.02 in. (O.Smm). Replace the the baffle íubes and clean carbon from íhem by
bushings and/or the shaft if clearance between heating with a torch, then tapping the baffle tube
shaft and bushings exceeds 0.014 in. (0.35mm). lightly with any convenient tool. Clean carbon
Shimmy, wander, and wheel hop are common from the curvcd exhaust pipes by scraping with
symptoms of worn swinging arm bushings. If a screwdriver or by running a used chain through
either of the arms is bent, the rear wheel will be the pipe.
out of alignment. Examine the weld carefully. Be sure íhat the rubber connectors are not
Replace the entire swinging arm assembly if the hardened or cracked. Replace them if they are
weld is cracked. no longer serviceable.
•*1
30
>
REAR SW1NGING ARM 2
pi
1. Swinging arm 16. Screw
2022
2. Bushing 17. Lockwasher
3. Swinging arm center spacer 18. Rear shock absorber assembly
4. Greasenipple 19. Nut
5. Swinging arm pivot shafí 20. líeaf shock absorber washer (1)
6. Swinging arm pivot nut 21. Rear shock absorber washer (2)
o
7. Washer 22. Rear shock absorver washer (3) z
8. Swinging arm pivot spacer 23. Rear shock absorbef washer (4)
9. Bushing dust seal cover 24. Rear brake torquelink >
0-ring 25. Bolt z
Thrust washer 26. Nut
c
C/5
Upper chain case 27. Lockwasher H
Chain case brackel 28. Reartorque linkclip, front W
14. Chain case washer 29. Rear Iorque link clip, rear w
30
15. Chain case bolt 30. Bolt HM
31. Nut Z
u
«
CHAPTER EIGHT
TROUBLESHOOTING
Diagnosíng motorcycle ills is relatively simple be atíempted at home. A few simple checks
if you use ordcrly procedures and keep a few could save- a large repair bill and time losí while
basíc principies in mind. íhe bike sits in a dealer's service department.
Ncvcr assume anything. Don't overlook the On the other hand, be realistic and don't attempt
obvious. If you are ridíng along and the bikc repairs beyond your abilities. Service depart-
suddenly quits, chcck the easiest, most accessible ments tend to charge heavily for puítíng íogether
problem spots first. Is there gasoline in the tank? a dísasscmbled engine that may have been
Is the gás pctcock in the "on" or "reserve" posi- abused. Some won't even take on such a job—
tion? Hás a spark plug wire fallen off? Check the só use common sense; don't get in over your
ignition switch. Sometimes the weight of keys head.
on a key ring may turn the ignition off suddenly.
If nothing obvious turns up in a cursory check,
look a little further. Learning to recogníze and OPERATING REQUIREMENTS
describe symptoms will make repairs easier for An engine needs three basics to run properly:
you or a mechanic at the shop. Describe prob- correct gas/air mixturc, compression, and a
lems accuraíely and fully. Saying that "it won't spark at the right time. If one or more are miss-
run" isn't the same as saying "it quit on the high- ing, the engine worTt run. The electrical system
way at high speed and wouldn't start," or that is the weakest link of the íhree. More problems
"it sat in my garage for three months and then result from elecírical breakdowns íhan from
wouldn't start." any other source. Keep that in mind before you
Gather as many symptoms together as pos- begin tampering with carburetor adjustments
síble to aid in diagnosis. Note whether the engine and the Hke.
lost power gradually or ali at once, what color If a bike hás been sitting for any length of time
smoke (if any) came from the exhausts and só and refuses to start, check the battery for a
on. Remember that the more complex a machine charged condition first, and then look to the gas-
is, the easier it is to troubleshoot because symp- oline delivery system. This includes the íank,
toms point to specific problems. fuel peícocks, lines, and the carburetors. Rust
You don't need fancy equipment or compli- may have formed in the tank, obstructing fuel
cated test gear to determine whether repairs can fio w. Gasoline deposiís may have gummed up
TROUBLESHOOT1NG 141
carburetor jets and air passages. Gasoline tends loosc connections at the coil and battery. If a!I
to lose its potency after standingfor long periods. seems in order there, check next for oily or dirty
Condensation may contaminate it with water. contact points. Clean points wilh electrical con-
Drain old gás and try starting with a fresh tact cleaner, or a strip of paper. On battery igni-
tankful. tion models, with thc ignition switch turned on,
Compression or the lack of it, usually enters open and close the points manually with a
the picture only in the case of older machines. se r e wd ri vê r.
Worn or broken pisíons, rings, and cylinder No spark at the points wilh Ihis test indicates
bores could preveni starting. Generally a gradual a failure in the ignition system. Refer to Chapter
power loss and harder and harder starting will Five (Electrical System) for detailed troublc-
be readily apparení in this case. shooíing procedures for the entire system and
its individual components. Reíer to Chapter
Two (Periodic Muintenance) for checking and
STARTING DIFFICULTIES sctting ignition timing.
Check gás flow first. Remove the gás cap and Note that spark plugs of thc incorrcct heat
look into the tank. If gás is prcsent, pull off a range (too cold) may cause hard starting. Sct
fuel line at the carburetor and sce if gás fio ws gaps to specifications. If you have just riddcn
freely. If nonc comes out the fuel tap may bc through a puddlc or washcd íhc bikc and it \von't
shut off, blocked by rust or foreign mattcr, or start, dry off plugs and plug wircs. Watcr may
the fuel line may be stopped up or kinkcd. Jf the have entcred the carburetor and foulcd the fuel
carburetor is getting usable fuel, turn to thc under these conditions, but wct plugs and wires
electrical system next. are the more likely probíem.
Check that the battcry is chargcd by turning If a healthy spark occurs at the right time,
on the lights or by beeping the horn. Refer to and there is adequaíe gás flow to the carburetor,
your o\vner's manual for starting proccdures check the carburetor itself at this time. Make
with a dead battcry. Have the battery recharged sure ali jets and air passages are clean, check
if necessary. Moa t levei, and adjust if necessary. Shake the
Pull off a spark plug cap, remove the spark float to check for gasoline inside it, and replace
plug, and reconnect the cap. Lay the plug against or rcpair as indicatcd. Check that the carburetors
íhe cylinder head só its base makes a good con- are mountcd snugly, and no air is Icaking past
nection, and turn the engine over with the kick- the mountings. Check for a cloggcd air filter,
starter. A fat, blue spark should jump across Compression may be checked in the fíeld by
the electrodes. If there is no spark, or only a turning the kickstarter by h and and noting that
weak one, there is electrical system trouble. an adequate resistance is felt, or by removing a
Check for a defcctíve plug by replacing it with spark plug and placing a finger over the plug
a known good onc. Don't assume a plug is good hole and feeling for prcssure.
just because it's new. An accurate comprcssion check givcs a good
Once the plug hás been cleared of guilt, but idea of thc condition of thc basic working parts
there's still no spark, start backtracking through of íhe engine. To perform this tcst, you need a
the system. If the contact at the end of the spark compression gauge. The motor should be warm.
plug wire can be exposed, it can be held about
1. Remove the plug on the cylinder to be tested
Vá inch from the head while the engine is turned
and clean out any dirt or grcasc.
over to check for a spark. Remember to hold
the wire only by its insulation to avoid a nasty 2. Insert the tip of íhe gaugc into thc holc,
shock. If the plug wires are dirty, greasy, or making sure it is scated corrcctly.
wet, wrap a rag around them só you don't get 3. Open íhe throttle ali íhe way and make sure
shocked. If you do feel a shock or see sparks the chokes on the carburetors are open.
along the wire, clean or replace the wire and/or 4. Crank the engine several times and record
its connecíions. the highest pressure indication on the gauge.
If there's no spark at the plug wire, look for Perform this test on each cylinder. Refer to
142 CHAPTER EIGHT
Chapter Two (Periodic Maintenance) to supply of coolant and sufficient airflow through
interpret results. the radiator. Coolant will boil away if the radi-
ator pressurc cap is not in good condition, or if
a sufficient conccntration of antifreeze is not
POOR IDLING maintaincd.
Poor idling may be caused by incorrect carbu-
reíor adjustment, incorrect timing, or igniíion
system defects. Check the gás cap vent for an BACKFIRING
obstrucíion. Check that the timing is not advanced too far.
MISFIRING Chcck fuel for contaminaíion.
Misfmng can bc caused by a wcak spark or
dírty plugs. Chcck for fucl contaminadon. Rim
thc machinc at night or in a darkcncd garagc to ENGINE NOISES
chcck for spark leaks along thc plug wircs and Experience is nceded to diagnose accurately
undcr thc spark plug cap. Tf misfiringoccurs only in this área. Noises are hard to diffcrcntiate and
at ccrtain throttlc scttings, rcfcr to thc carburetor hardcr yct to describe. Deep knocking noises
chaptcr for thc specific carburetor circuits in- usually mcan main bearing failure. A slapping
volvcd. Misfiring undcr heavy load, as when noisc gcncrally comes from loose pistons. A light
climbing hills or accclcrating, is usually caused knocking noisc during acceleration may be a
by bad spark plugs. bad connccting rod bearing. Pinging, which
sounds like marblcs being shaken in a tin can,
is caused by ignition advanced too far or gasoline
FLAT SPOTS with too low an octane rating. Pinging should be
Tf the cnginc seems to die momcmarily when corrected immediately or damage to pistons will
thc throttle is opcncd and thcn recovcrs, check rcsult. Compression leaks aí the head-cylinder
for a dirty main jet in the carburetor, watcr in joint will sound likc a rapid on and off squeal.
the fucl, or an excessively lean mixture.
PISTON SEIZURE
POWER LOSS
Piston seizure is caused by incorrect piston
Poor condition of rings, pistons, or cylínders clearanccs when fitted, fitting rings with im-
will cause a lack of powcr and speed. Ignition proper end gap, too thin an oil being used, incor-
timina should bc checked. rect spark plug heat range, or incorrect ignition
timing. Overheaíing from any cause may result
OVERHEATING ín seizure.
Tf the engine seems to run too hoí ali the time, EXCESSIVE VIBRATION
be sure you are not idling it for long periods.
Air-cooled engines are not designed to operate Excessive vibration may be caused by loose
at a standstill for any length of time. Heavy stop motor mounts, worn engine or transmission
and go^traffic is hard on a motorcycle engine. bearings, loose wheels, worn swinging arm bush-
Spark plugs of the wrong heat range can burn ings, a generally poor running engine, broken or
pistons. An excessively lean gás mixture may cracked frame, or one that hás been damaged
cause overheating, Check ignition timing. Don't in a collision. See also Poor Handling.
ride in too high a gear. Broken or worn rings may
pcrmit compression gases to leak past th em,
heating heads and cylínders excessively. Check CLUTCH SLIP OR DRAG
oil levei and use the proper grade lubricants. Clutch slip may be due to worn plaíes, im-
Water-cooled engines require an adequate proper adjustment, or glazed platcs. A dragging
TROUBLESHOOTING 143
clutch could result from damaged or bent plates, LIGHTING PROBLEMS

improper adjustment, or uneven clutch spring Bulbs which continuously burn out may be
pressure. caused by excessive vibration, loose connecíions
that permit sudden current surges, poor battery
connections, or installation of the wrong type
POOR HANDLING bulb.
Poor handlíng may be caused by improper tire A dead battery or one which discharges
pressures, a damaged frame or swinging arm, quickly may be caused by a faulty generator or
worn shocks or front forks, weak fork springs, rectifier. Check for loosc or corroded terminais.
a bent or broken steering stem, misaligned Shorted battery cclls or broken terminais will
wheels, loose or missíng spokes, worn tires, bent keep a battery from charging. Low water levei
handlebars, worn wheel bearing, or dragging will decrease a battery's capacity, A battery left
brakes. uncharged after installation will sulphate, ren-
dering it useless.
A majority of light and hora or other elec-
BRAKE PROBLEMS trical accessory problems are caused by loose or
corroded ground connections. Check those first,
Sticking brakes may be caused by broken or and then substituíe known good units for easier
weak return springs, improper cable or rod ad- troubleshooting.
justment, or dry pivot and cam bushings. Grab-
bing brakes may be caused by greasy linings
which must be replaced. Brake grab may also be TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
due to out-of-round drums or linings which have The following quick refercncc guidc (Table 1)
broken loose from the brake shocs. Glazed summarizes part of the troubleshooting process.
linings or glazed brake pads will cause loss of Use it to outline possible problem áreas, then
stopping power. refer to lhe specific chapter or section involved.
Table l TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Item Problem or Cause Things to Check

Hard starting Detective ignition system Spark plug condition
Breaker point condition
Igniíion timing
Spark plug cabias
Ignition coil
Condenser
Detective fuel system Starter system
Fuelcock
Corburetor mounting
Clogged fuel lines
Clogged fuel tank cap vent
Carburetor
Engine Piston, rings, cylinders
Crankshaft oil seals
Cylinder head
Loss of power Poor compression Piston rings and cylinder
Head gaskeís
Crankcase leaks
(continued)
144 CHAPTER EIGHT
Tabie l TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE (continued)

Item Probletn or Cause Things to Check
Loss of power (cont) Overheated engine Lubricating oil supply
Clogged cooling fins
Oil pump
Ignition timing
Slippingclutch
Carbon in combustion chamber
Improper mixture Dirty air cleaner
Starter lever position
Restricted fuel flow
Gás cap vent hole
MisceManeous Dragging brakes
Tight wheel bearings
Defective chain
Cfogged exhaust system
Gearshifting difficulties Clutch Adjustment
Springs
Friction plates
Steel plates
Transmission Oil quantity
Oil grade
Return spring or pín
Change lever or spring
Drum position plate
Change drum
Change forks
Steering Hard steering Tire pressures
Steering damper adjustment
Steering stem head
Steering head bearings
Steering oil damper
Pulís to one side Unbalanced shock absorbers
Drive chain adjustment
Front/rear wheel alignment
Unbalanced tires
Defective swing arm
Defective steering head
Shimmy Drive chain adjustment
Loose or míssing spokes
Deformed rims
Worn wheel bearings
Wheel balance
Brakes Poor brakes Worn linings
Brake adjustment
Oil or water on brake linings
Loose linkage or cables
Noisy brakes Worn or scratched lining
Scratched brake drums
Dirt in brake housing
Disc distortion
Unadjustable brakes Worn linings
Worn drums
Worn brake cams
C H A P T E R NINE
PERFORMANCE IMPROVEMENT
The history of Suzuki's three triple two-stroke íncreased along with the power, a built-up
street bikes, the GT380, GT550, and GT750, motorcycle may become acíively hazardous
proves that Americans are not necessarily to ride.
logical in their motorcycle preferences. High performance may also ínvolve correct-
Ali three of these bikes have similar virtues. ing model deficiencies. For example, ali three
They are totally reliable, inexpensive to own, GT-series Suzukis wcrc equipped with marginal,
and they may be repaired ínexpensívely and high-wear shock absorbers (as werc and are
easily when they do break. Ali of them have most Japanese motorcycles). Even the ridcr of
more than acceptable performance, not far short a stone stocker may benefit from the installaíion
of today's crop of superbikes. of improvcd shocks under normal riding
Yet, none of them ever became a big favorite condiíions.
of American bikers. This lack of appeal may Suspension modificaíions are particularly in
have been due to their generally unexciting order for the "Water Buffalo." Touring owners
image, rather poor styling (at least on the earlier of the GT750, with their heavy-loaded, long-
models), or simply the fact that American road disíance style of riding, will benefit greatly from
riders have never been particularly fond of such changes.
íwo-strokes. Performance modifications will be outlined on
Even the GT750, which for years was the best a step-by-step basis in this chapter, and it is
bargain available in thelarge-displacement tour- suggested that this sequence be followed.
ing bike field, never had more than a small hard- Since very few bike owners can afford to
core group of adnrirers. spend $500 and up for modifications at onc
Yet, whatever the reason for their unpopu- time, they must build on a budget. Budget
larity, the bikes remaín excellent choices for building is ideally suited to step-by-step modi-
street machines, and will accept high perform- fication. Following this outlined procedure
ance modifications easily. keeps the outlay of money as low as possible,
Many cyclists consíder high performance to and ensures that each modification will give full
mean only one íhing—more horsepower. Yet, if benefits when it is made, rather than three steps
overall handling, reliability, and braking are not down the road.
146 CHAPTER NINE
Since ali three Suzukis have excellent engine This consists of two extremely heavy replace-
performance within their respectíve displacement bushings, a shaft equipped with a lube
ment limitations, modifications to ali three fitting, and mounting bolts and washers.
should begin by improving th e bike's handling Alíhough the instructions say íhat this kit is
and braking. a hand tool installation, the builder is strongly
advised to have a power drill fitted with a reamer
SUSPENSION tip handy. It may be necessary to enlarge the
swing arm to fit the new bushings. While this
It is senseless to thínk ín terms of custom may be done with a circular file, it is slow and
wheels, competition brake linings, gas-remote-
tedious.
rcscrvoir shocks, and the rest if you are riding
The Target kit offers several advantages.
a worn-ouí bike. Tolerances are far closer than stock swing arm
Obviously, trick shocks will not improve to frame dimensions, só there is less possibility
handling if there is half an inch of side play in
of vviggle. Secondly, the Target bushing will gíve
your swing arm due to worn-out bushings. Nor better life than the stock part—it should last at
will aírcaps improve fork performance if the
least 25,000 miles before replacement. This kit
steeríng head bearings are square.
is highly recommended for use on any GT-series
Só, just as with engine modification, suspen-
Suzuki, and a necessity on a performance-
sion modification should begin with rebuilding
modified machíne.
the stock suspension system. Following the
inspection procedures outlined Ín Chapter
Seven, make sure that ali components in the Shocks—AH Models
system fali well within allowablc tolerances.
The stock rear shocks on ali models of the
This is especially important on high-mileage
GT Suzukis may be expected to last no more
machines, such as a touring GT750.
than 10,000 miles.
If stock components are worn out, they obvi-
Unfortunately, although a lot hás been wrítten
ously should be the first to be replaced. How-
about worn-out shock absorbers, and how they
ever, in some cases, there is little point in usíng
adversely affect handling, no one hás yet found
an OEM replacement when a heavier-duty,
a valid way for the average motorcyclist to
better-quality, and often lower-priced accessory
check his shocks with common tools. Hand
part is available.
compression with the shocks off the machine and
the springs removed proves nothing. Nor does
Swing Arm—AH Modcls
"feel," since shocks go progessívely bad, and
One of the most frequent causes of poor most riders subconsciously adjust to this loss of
handling is worn out swing arm bushings. handling wíthout realizing it.
Riders who feel that they can improve handling Two test methods exist, but unfortunately
by replacing shocks or installing high perform- both of them are "feel" íests. The first is to have
ance forfc kits or other expensive modifications a friend, who is knowledgeable about shocks,
will geí nowhere if the swing arm hás any side try the machine through some dips, across some
play whatsoever. bumps, etc. Since this person will not be familiar
This should be checked by removing the rear with the machine, he may be able to tell if your
wheel, and unbolting the shocks at their lower shocks are worn out. Obviously, this method of
mount. testing is very subjective.
With the bike on its centerstand and braced, The second method is to have a friend ride
attempt to move the swing arm sideways. If behind you in a car or on a second bike, and
there is any appreciable movement, the bushing watch the behavior of your shocks. If they pogo
should be replaced. (repeatedly spring-return-spring-return) without
Rather than use the OEM pari, a Target any apparent dampmg, the shocks need
Products swín» arm bushins kit should be used. replacement.
PERFORMANCE IMPROVEMENT 147
Also, there is a cynícal rule of thumb which

states that if you think your shocks are going
bad, they are.
Rather than using OEM parts to replace
worn-out shocks, ií is highly recommended that
quality aftermarket components be used.
These are frequently less expensive than th c
stock shocks, almost invariably have a íonger
lifespan, and always offer superior performance.
Since the GT380 and GT550 Suzukis are
basically transportation machines, and seldom
see continued use as síreeírods or long distancc
touring bikcs, probably the best shock to use is
the extremely inexpcnsive, but very high quality,
S&W shock absorber (Figure 1).
These give excellcnt damping performance on
any burnps, and havc a lifespan wcll in excess
of 50,000 miles.
For solo riding on the GT380 or GT550, the
S&Ws should be equipped with 85-115 Ib.
dual-rate springs. For canyon riding or tour-
ing, 95-125 Ib. springs should be used.
These shocks are also available for the
GT750, although touring riders should consider
installing S&W air adjustablc shocks (Figure 2)
instead.
148 CHAPTER NINE
On the airshocks, the conventional springs

are replaced with rubber airbags. Damping is
Standard oil hydraulic.
These rubber bags are pressurized to meet
the rider's exact needs. With an almost-infinite
variation, the rider can set the shocks for a soft,
plush ride for long distance on íhc throughwavs,
or stiff and exact for canyon travelling. The
shocks can be adjusted for load conditions from
single rider to two riders with full touring gear.
The rubber bags are protectcd by nylon
sleeves, to prevent wear.
These airshocks may be equipped with an
optional handlebar-mounted pressure gauge and
a small syringe só thaí air pressure may be ín-
creascd without having to look for a gás station
air pump (Figure 3).
There are two differences between the air-
shocks and conventional shocks (besides their
design): an airshock-equipped bikc will sit ap-
proximately one inch lower at the rear than
•beiore; care must be taken íhat the shock is
given proper clearance around chain guard,
saddlebags, etc., when installed.
These airshocks (which are also available for
One inch
the 380 and 550) are probably thc most sensible spring
for the 750 owner who needs a wide variance spaccr
capability in his rear suspension.
Other recommended conveníional shocks for
the GT-scries bikes are from Koni or Number
One. Number One also offers a hydraulically-
adjustable-ride shock for touring riders.
Forks—AH Moclcls
Whilc íhc stock front forks on the GT-series
Suzukis rate as acceptable under "normal" rid-
ing circumstanccs, for performance riding or Even with a new set of springs, the front end
touring they are marginal. will be somewhat undersprung, particularly if
Before modification, as with other compo- a fairing ís mounted.
nents, the entire front end should be carefully There are no heavy-duty fork springs avail-
inspected. Be especially attentive to abrasion able for the GT-series Suzukis, só the stock
marks on the fork legs or sliders, out-of-round springs must be retained. Adding a one inch
or dry steering head bearings, insufficient or diameter shim inside the fork cap on each fork
broken-down fork oil, and, most likely, worn- leg (Figure 4) will slightly preload the springs.
out fork springs. The fork oil should be replaced with Torço
The springs can be removed and measured 30-weight fork oil.
against a new set of springs. If shorter íhan the These changes will slightly improve spring
new set, replace the old springs. preload and damping actíon.
Wheeis—AH Models
Fully committed performance riders may
wish to replace the stock wire wheeis with cast
alloy wheeis.
Unsprung weight (those portions of the
motorcycle affected directlyby road shock, such
as the swing arm, brakes, wheeis, etc.) will be
slightly reduced, and the new wheeis will have
greater rigidity. Both these changes will slightly
improve handling.
More practical for the síreet rider, cast wheeis
vastly reduce motorcycle maintcnancc time,
since there are no more spokes to clean, tighten,
replace, eíc.
The single drawback to cast wheeis is cost—
around S300 for a set of bare wheeis and
bearings.
The only cast wheeis available for the GT-
series bikes are from Morris Industries (Fig-
ure 6). On disc brake equipped front wheeis,
installation of the Morris wheeis will require
only removal of íhe front wheel, disassembly of
> the brake components and their reassembly onto
N
the new wheel. The new wheel then bolts
into place.
Drum brake equipped GT machincs, though,
must havc the front drum rcplaced with a com-
plete disc assembly. Most recomrnended is
SuzukFs own system for the GS-series four-
stroke bikes or, for those who want dual front
discs, the entire GT750 kit. This kit must
include both lower fork legs intended for the
GT750, as the 380 and 550 lack mounting lugs
for duais.
More significant ímprovement may be made Also, it will be necessary to fabricate mount-
by installing aírcaps on the forks (avaílable at ing hardware to mate the disc to the drum brake
most Suzuki dealers or by mail order from mounting lugs on 380's or 550's.
Suzuki City). These replace the stock caps, and The addition of a second disc brake looks
permií pressurization of the fork internais. See great, but Suzukfs single disc is more than
Figure 5. efficient enough for normal and even mildly
This accomplishes two íhings. First, it effec- hard riding conditions.
tively preloads the forks, thus increasing spring Since the rear Morris Mag wheel hás no pro-
poundage and ground clearance when cornering; visions for íhc stock rcar drum brake used on
it also decreases the possibiliíy of seal leakage, OEM wheeis, an accessory rear disc system must
since the air pressure forces the seals more be installed.
tightly into position. One solution to adding a rear disc is to pur-
Normally, S to 10 pounds air pressure will chase the complete Suzuki rear disc assembly
be adequate loading for the performance or used on the 1978 and laíer GS750C models.
touring rider. See Figure 7. The late-model GS rear brake uses
150 CHAPTER NINE
a smaller disc than the 1977, and is therefore far

less prone to unexpected lockup. It will be nec-
essary to use the GS brake pedal assembly and
master cylinder, which will require welding
mounting tabs to the frame.
Another solutíon is to install a complete
Grimeca rear brake assembly (Figure 8). Thís
consists of masíer cylinder, brake line, disc, and
caliper, and may be ordered from Morris Indus-
tries for abouí $200. As with the Suzuki assem-
bly, it will be necessary to build or have custom-
built mounting hardware for the disc system.
Since the total expense of changing from wire
wheels to cast wheels could be over $700, this is
obvíously too high for the average cyclist, espe-
ciaily considcring the resalc value of these bikes.
Brakes—AH Modcls
Rear brake performance may be improved by
replacing the stock linings with automotive
metallic competition linings. Remove the stock
brake shoes and take them to a high perform-
ance automotive brake shop. They will custom
fit the metallic linings. However, this improve-
mcnt will incrcase brake wear. Also, since less
than 40% of braking involves the rear wheel,
overall braking is not improved much; the stock
Suzuki drum brakes do a satisfactory job of
braking. This modification is only recommended
for competition ríders, who need ali of the
stopping power they can get.
Metallic linings can bc fitted to the front
drum brake. However, the four-leading-shoe
drum used on the GT750's already delivers
exceptional braking performance.
One important modification is to improve the
performance of the íate-model disc brakes in
íhe rain. When it is wet, water collects on the
disc. When the brake is applied, the puck hydro-
planes ineffectively on the water surface for at
least one full revolution. At this point, the rider
generally squeezes harder on the brake lever.
Since the water now hás been cleaned from the
disc, this excessive force often produces front
wheel lockup—an extremely hazardous condi- of punching many holes, up to ¥2 inch in diam-
íion on wet pavement. eter, through the disc. In the wet, the water will
The solution is to remove the dísc(s), and be squeezed from the disc into these holes, and
have it drilled (Figure 9). Drilling consists the puck will not hydroplane.
This modification should not be made by an rider is advised to íalk to other riders with the
amateur machinist, since it is possible to mar the same bike and similar riding style who have
surface of the disc and ruin it, or make too many used these or other tires.
holes and weaken the disc fwhich will then pos- Touring-oriented owners of the GT750 are
sibly coílapse under braking and lock up the advised against changing their rear wheei to the
wheei). These holes should be slíghtly counter- popular 16 inch diameter. Although this per-
sunk on either side, to prevent the sharp cdgcs mits use of the comfortable large-diameter
from having a cheese grater effect on the puck. Harley-type tire, these compounds are more
Thís service may be done by an experienced noted for their longevity than for maximum
competition machine shop, or by mail by Bill cornering adhesion.
Bowman, Inc., for around $30 per disc.
Competition-oriented riders may also wish to
have the disc faced (have its thickness reduced) ENGINE MODIFICATTONS
to reduce the bike's unsprung weight. Again, Although any of the three-cylinder Suzukis
this should not be done by the inexpcrienced, as have excellent power, some riders may wish still
it is quite easy to "chunk" the disc and ruin it greater performance. There may be more justi-
(replacement discs cosi well over $90). fication for this than simply the egotistical one
of having the biggcst gun on the block. The tour-
ing rider may wish to compensate for the in-
creased loading of his machine and restore the
Whcels—AH Models bike's performance to unloaded stock leveis.
Rather than replacing the stock tires with The commuting rider may wish more power for
OEM components when worn out, high-quality passing and throuehway acccleration. Finally,
performance tires should be used. the owner may ride with friends who have
Tires are a necessary compromise beíween higher-performance machines and be tircd of
the hígh-wear, high-adhesion racing compounds, riding "Tai! End Charlie" ali the time.
and the low-wear, but decreased traction touring Since Suzuki's engíne design is reliable and
compounds. strong, horsepower increases may be made wilh-
Riders who are concerned with tire life, yet out weakeniníí the enginc.
who still want excellent adhesion, should replace It is possible to build either of the íhrcc cn-
the stock rubber with identical-sized Michelin gines to produce much more horsepower, How-
M45's, front and rear. ever, this will be at the expense of rideability.
However, a better compromise for the per- Even more than a four-stroke ensine, a built-up
formance rider (assuming that he is more con- íwo-stroke will be pcaky and hard to ride. Heavy
cerned with handling than tire life) is to install power increases involve port modification,
a set of Continental Twins on his machine. Caré which makes the power band narrowcr and
should be taken to ensure that you get the RB2 higher in the rpm range, much like a roadracing
front and the Kl 12 rear, as the older Conti- bike. The modifier is advised to move cau-
nentais are not noíed for either their high-wear tiously before making major changes.
or handling qualities. The owner of a GT-series Suzuki is advised to
With the Continental Twins, a rider may ex- be conservativc, even thongh various, rather
pect extraordinary handling improvements (by fascínating bits of exótica are available for ali
test, comfortable cornering at up to 10 mph per three models. For the 380 and 550, replacement
corner) but also excepíional tire lifespan (front cylinders are available from England. These
around 25,000 miles, rear 8,000 to 10,000 increase displacemení, radically alter port tim-
miles) depending on bike loading, riding con- ing, and convert the engine to water cooling.
ditions, road conditions, etc. However, these are not recommended, for sev-
Other excellení performance tires are avail- eral reasons. For U.S. owners, they are not
able from Goodyear, Pirelli, and Dunlop. The readily available, and spare parts may be even
152 CHAPTER NINE
scarcer. Another consideration is the expense This work may be done by any competent
of these parts. Finally, consider the difficulty of machine shop or by most Suzuki agencies with
finding expert help should you run into trouble. machining facilities. Mail order modifications of
Super performance paris have also been man- this type may be done through Suzuki City.
ufactured for the GT750, originally for their use With l mm removed from the head, compres-
in small-size racing automobiles. But, as with sion should be increased to an ideal 150-160 Ib.
the water-jacket big-bore barreis for the smaller
triples, these parts should be considered care-
Barrei Change—GT380
fully before purchase.
Oviously, these parts will be expensive. And In 1976, the GT380's barreis were modified,
the street-riding performance builder should and two additional transfer ports were added.
consider that these parts were intended for rac- Performance-oriented owners of pre-1976
ing application. Racers will accept parts which models would be advised to replace their older
last no more than a few races, só long as they model barreis with the higher-performance
significantly increase power. Buí the street rider late-model part.
must consider reliabílity, since he is hardly This is a simple replacement operation, to
likely to tear his bike down every thousand stock specifications, and requires no modifi-
miles or só. A final caution is that racing-only cations.
parts usually develop gobs of horsepower, but
only within the powerband needed for compe- Ram Air—GT380
tition. Since the street rider spends most of hís Performance may be increased, as already
time riding aí low- and mid-rpm, a competition mentioned Jn the section on suspension, by an
modification would noí be suiíable. overall reduction in the bike's weight. Some
owners of GT380's have attempted to cut their
Prc-modification—GT750 bike's weight by removing the cast Ram Air
Before any engine modifications are made to shroud from the engine.
the GT750, the crankshaft seals should be This should not be done under any circum-
closely inspcctcd. If worn (particularly likely on stances, since the Ram Air is an extremely
early or high-mileage Water Buffaloes), they functional and necessary cooling device. The
should be replaced with the late-model seals, cooler a two-stroke engine runs, the more
which are fitted with metal flanges. horsepower it develops. The removal of the
Since installation of these seals is a press-fit shrouding, even though it decreases bike weight,
machine-shop job, it is recommended that the will actually decrease performance through a
work be done by a competent agency rather horsepower loss.
than the owner. Competition builders may wish to go to íhe
trouble of removing the shroud and replacing it
Heacl Milling—AH Models with a far lighter, but still functional, sheet metal
shroud. This should be hand-bení ío maích the
Since ali three Suzukis have extremely low contours of the stock Ram Air shroud.
compression ratios, horsepower may be mod-
erately increased, without any sacrifices being
made in reliability or longeviíy, by increasing OU Pump Modification
the engine's compression. or Removal—Ali Models
This is done by removing íhe head and mill- Most competition-only two-strokes use pre-
ing l mm from the base, thus slightly reducing mixed oil and gás rather than the separaíe oil
the combustion chamber's área. For still further tank with pump system used on the GT-series
performance, up to 3mm may be milled from Suzukis. This saves weight and eliminates the
the GT750's head without any problems being dísastrous consequences of an oil injection
created. failure. However, it should not be done on any
síreet GT machine. Having to mix gás and oil quite exactly what improvements he wants and
at every roadside stop is time consuming and what sacrifices he is willing to make.
messy. Small improvements in performance may be
gained by removing the barreis and smoothing
the edges of the ports. This work should only
Por* Modification—AU Models be done with emery paper or sandpaper, by
According to íheory, port alteration on a hand. No power tools should be used, to preveni
two-stroke engine is quite simple. If you widen the possibility of inadvertent engine damage. It
the intake and exhaust ports, you merely in- is especially criticai that íhe angle of the port
crease the mixture amount and therefore per- edges not be altered, since these are carefully
formance without altering the timing. If you designed to be the way they are, generally to
raise the intake ports 2mm and raise the exhaust reduce engine noise.
ports 2mm, you will get more power at high
rpm without making much of a sacrifice at
lower rpm. Exhanst—AH Models
Since the theory seems só simple, some The stock exhaust systems used on the Suzuki
builders buy a Dremel tool, a handful of tips, triples are, like ali OEM systems, a nccessary
and go after performance. More often than not, compromise betwecn unií cost, maximum power
the end result is reduced performance and a bike output, and legal noise limits.
with an unusable or totally impractical Since an unmuffled two-stroke engine is one
powerband. of the loudest and most irritating noises known.
A two-stroke is deceptive in its simplicity. extreme care is taken to properly silence
Without valves, camshafts, etc., modification exhaust noise. For competition purposes only,
should be simple. significam power may be gained by installing a
But even though the engine is simple in its custom-built exhaust system with stinger tip.
component parts, in function, things are not This should not be done undcr any circum-
nearly that uncomplicated. Each part of the stances on street-ridden bikes, though. Motor-
two-stroke engine interacts with the parts to cycles are already under the governmental gun
affect the engine's behavior. What appears to be for noise pollutíon as it is, Each unmuffied or
a minor change can severely alter the engine racing-exhaust-equipped streetbike significantly
performance. increases the probability of more restrictivc and
Engine port modification is possibly the most possibly totally anti-motorcycle legislation.
criticai área of ali. Any changes should be made Riders who value their sport, and wish to con-
cautiously and only by an experienced builder. tinue being able to participate in it, must exert
In spite of many cycle magazine articles that a high degree of social responsibility.
cheerily tell you how to do your own porting, There is another excellent reason to avoid
this work should only be done by an experienced high noise levei exhaust systems on the strect.
íwo-stroke porting service, such as Don Vesco A primary cause of fatigue is noise. The louder
Yamaha or Suzuki City. a motorcycle is, the less time you can ride it
Generally, it is possible to find a local porting comforíably. For íouring riders this is highly
service that hás a successful racetrack reputa- significant, since the long distance biker must
tion. However, the buyer should still be wary— have the option of being able to puí down long
a competition porter may automatically think in milcs without exhausting himself.
terms too radical for a streeí bike, and produce The only street exhaust for any of the Suzuki
an engine with a powerband impossible for triples which can be recommended is the three-
normal strect conditions. into-one system manufactured by Strader
The rider interested in increased performance Engineering (Figure 10).
through port alteration is well advised to consult Installation of this system is bolt-on, and
the chosen porting service directly, and specify should not require carburetor rejetting.
154 CHAPTER NINE
Power will be noíiceably increased in the mid-

range, which will be of the greatest benefit to the
street rider, and the bike's overall weight will be
reduced by well over 20 Ib.
Even a non-performance-oriented rider might
wish to insíall the Strader system when his stock
exhausí rusts out, due to the extremely high cost
of the OEM replacement.
Though íhc Stradcr exhaust is generally legal,
the rider will find that noise levei is slightly in-
creased. For th i s reason, the rider who is pri-
marily conccrned with touring is best advised
to stay with the stock system, for comforfs sake.
Owners of pre-1974 GT750's may consider
replacing their exhaust system with a later stock
exhaust. Thís later system eliminates the cross- Rejetting the carburetors should not be nec-
over tubes, and therefore allows the engíne to essary when they are installed on a modi-
put out slightly greater power through the mid- fied 380, since the 550's baseline jeíting should
range. Obviously, íhe noise levei will not be be ideal on the modified smaller engine.
increased. But since carburetors see a lot of unauthor-
A less expensive change on the pre-1974 ized and amateur jetting, baseline main jet
GT750's is to simply remove the crossover tubes sizing on these carburetors should be 95 mains
and plug the holes in the pipe with appropri- on the center cylinder and 97.5 mains on the
ately-sized automotive freeze plugs. This is not outer two carburetors.
only a temporary change, but an extremely With these carburetors installed, performance
ugly one. will remain close to stock on the luw end, grad-
ually improving through the midrange, and of
greatest benefit in the upper rpm range.
Air Filtcr—AH Models
Intake fiow may be increased by replacing the
stock air filter element with a stock-dimensioned Carburetor Change—GT550
filter from K&N. A mildly modified GT550 may also have its
Some riders feel that performance will be performance increased by replacing íhe stock
increased by entirely removing the air cleaner carburetors with three 32mm slide-needle
assembly, and installing vacuum stacks (air- Mikunis (Figure 11). It is recommended that
horns, bellhorns, etc.). This is certainly not these be ordered as a closely pre-jetted kit from
recommended for street riders, due to the like- Suzuki City.
lihood of sucking cngine-damaging contami- Many riders find the expense of such a kit
nants dírectly into the engine. too great, and attempt to set up their own car-
buretors from off-the-shelf or used carburetors.
However, the slide-needle Mikuni is an ex-
Carburetor Change—GT380 tremely complex carburetor with a htfge array
After head milling and possibly mild port of available modífications and overlappíng func-
modification, the GT380's intake capability will íions. Wiíh replacement slides running close
be greater than the stock carbureíors permit. to $10, and main jets at $5 each, it takes very
The entire 24mm carburetor assembly may be few jetting changes to make the cost of a self-
removed and replaced with the 28mm set of set-up kit higher íhan that of a pre-jetted kit.
Mikunis used stock on íhe GT550. This modi- In addition, of course, the inexperienced
fication is an easy bolt-on. tuner runs the excellent possibility of ruíning his
engine wherí setting up such a carburetor constant-vacuum carburetors are known for re-
from scratch. liabílity and economy. However, they have two
When the GT550 carburetors are changed, major drawbacks for the performance enthu-
the stock throttle cable must be replaced with siast—they are sluggish in their response to
an early (pre-CV carbureíor model) cable engine demands and they offer less than maxi-
from a GT750. mum flow. After the CV carburetors are re-
placed with the larger slide-needle mixers,
Carburetor Change—GT750 engine performance will bc boosted throughout
With a mildly modified 750 engine, engine the engine's range (still most noticcably at
performance may be síill further íncreased by high rpm).
replacing the stock carburetors with a set With these carburetors installed on early
of 34mm Mikunis. As with the recommended GTs, mileage may drop 2-4 mpg, depending on
carburetor change on the GT550, these carbu- riding style. On the bikes formerly equipped
retors should be purchased as a prejetted kít with CV carburetors, mileage may drop as much
(for example, the kít available from Suzuki City) as 6-8 mpg. But sincc the Watcr Buffalo hás a
rather than ofi-the-sheli large tank and is economical, performance
Installed on a pre-1974 GT750, these carbu- oriented riders will not have any troubk adjust-
retors will keep low end performance at pre- íng to the loss.
modified leveis, improve midrange moderately, It is possible to modify the stock air cleaner
and give significant boosts to top end perform- assembly connectors on CV-carburetor GT750's
ance. for use with the slide-needle carburetors. But on
. Even greater benefits are possible when the earlier models it will be necessary to remove the
Mikunis are used on 1974-later GTs. The stock entire air cleaner assembly and use three sepa-
156 CHAPTER NINE
rate K&N or Filtron air cleaners (Figure 12) resistor (such as íhat found stock on the Kawa-
mounted directly to the carburetor bellmouths. saki Z-l) into circuit between the battery and
coil, to preveni overdriving and frying the
smaller-voltage parts.
Ignirion Change—AH Models The second change to the ignition circuit is to
There is little point in increasing the intake replace the very poor OEM ignition condenser
and exhaust efficiency if the ignition system with a higher-quality U.S.-built part. Any auto-
remains at stock leveis. motive ignition condenser rated at around 20
The performance-oriented builder should microfarads will be ideal.
plan for ignition modificatíon as the final step Finally, care should be taken to use only
in his street hop-up. Suzuki OEM points and points plate assemblies.
Stock coils are rated at only 10,000-12,000 Too many of the accessory points assemblies
volts. These should be replaced with heavy-duty, have a thin backing plate or insufficiently strong
high-output components. springs. Either of these will produce plate distor-
An excellent choice are the Lucas high per- tion or points bounce, causing an erratic firing
formance coils, easily recognized by their blue sequence at high rpm.
anodized body. In spite of the somewhat vile
reputation that Lucas components have (pri-
marily caused by the low-cost, low-reliability
parts used as stock on most British bikes), these OVERALL
high performance coils will provide noticeable If performance modifications are made sen-
power improvements and excellent reliability. sibly and relatively conservatively, the perform-
Thcy are a wíre-in replacement, and do not re- ance of the GT-series Suzukis can be signifi-
quíre modification to the ignition circuitry. cantly increased, without loss in reliability and
A second coil option is to install three 6-volt rideability. In addition, suspension modifica-
coils ín place of the stock 12-volt components. tions make the bikes far better suited to the
With íhese installed, voltage will be increased. needs of American riders, and much more fun
However, it will be necessary to wire a ballast to ride.
Table l PERFORMANCE MANUFACTURERS AND SERVICES
Manufacturar Service
Bill Bowrnan, Inc. Disc drilling and facing

2546 Manhattan Ave.
Montrose, Calif. 91020
Don Vesco Yamaha Porting
7565 North Ave.
Lemon Grove, CA 92045
Morris Industries Cast wheeis, disc brake components

2901 W. GarryAve.
Santa Ana, Calif. 92704
S&W Engineered Products Shock absorbers

13415 Marquardt
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
Strader Engineering Exhaust system

1731 Walters St.
Ventura, CA 93003
Suzuki City Head milling, portjng, performance parts,

1247 S. La Brea Ave. custom engine buildmg
Ingtewood, CA 90301
Target Products Swing arm bushing kit

2724 W. Main
Alhambra, Calif. 91801
D
APPENDIX
SPECIFICATIONS
This chapter contains specifications and performance

iigures for the various Suzuki models covered by this
book. The íables are arranged in order of increasing
ensine size.
APPENDIX 159
SPECIFICATIONS, MODEL GT380
DIMENSIONS
Length 82.9 inches
Width 33.5 inches
Wheelbase 53.4 inches
Road clearance 6.1 inches
Weíght 377 pounds
PERFORMANCE
Maximum speed 105-110 mph
Braking distance (feet/mph) 46 ft at 30 mph
ENGINE
Bore and stroke (inches) 2.13 by2.13
(millimeters) 54 by 54
Displacement (cubic inches) 22.6
(cubic centimeters) 371
Compression ratio 6.7 to l
Horsepower/rpm 38 at 7,500
Torque (foot-pounds/rpm) 28.4 at 6,000
FUEL SYSTEM
Carburetors ThreeVM24SC
Fuel tank capacity 3.3 USgallons
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Type Suzuki CCI
Oil tank capacity 3.2 US pints
IGNITION SYSTEM
Type Battery and coil
Ignition timing (degrees BTDC) 24
Spark plug NGK B-7ES
TRANSMISSION
Prirnary reduction ratio 2.833 to l
Gear ratios
l st 2.333 to l
2nd 1.500 to l
3 rd 1.157 to l
4th 0.904 to l
5th 0.782 to l
6th 0.708 to l
FR AM E
Steering angle 40 degrees right and left
Caster 62 degrees
Trai l 4.3 inches
Tire size
Front 3.00-19
Rear 3.50-18
BRAKES
Type Internai expanding
Diameter
Front 7 inches
Rear 7 inches
160 APPENDIX
DIMENSIONS
Length 85.0 inches
Width 33.5 inches
Weight 412 pounds
PERFORMANCE
Climing ability 26 degrees
ENGINE
Bore and stroke (inches) 2.40 by 2.44
(cubíc centímeters) 544
Compression ratio 6.8 to l
Torque (foot-pounds/rpm) 44.1 at 5,000
FUEL SYSTEM
Carburetors ThreeVM32SCorBS40
Fuel tank capacity 4.5USgallons
LUBR1CAT10N SYSTEM
Type Suzuki CC!
Oi! tank capacity 3.2 US pints
IGNITION SYSTEM
Type Battery and coil
Spark plug NGK B-7ES
TRANSMISSION
Prímary reduction ratio 2.242 to l
Gear ratios
l st 2.864 to l
2nd 1.736 to l
3 rd 1.363 to l
4th 1.125 to l
Sth 0.923 to l
FRAME
Steering angle 42 degrees left and right
Caster 61 degrees
Trai l 4.6 inches
Tire size
Front 3.25-19
Rear 4.00-18
BRAKES
Type Internai expanding and disc
Diameter
Front 7% inches
Rear 7% inches
APPENDIX 161
DIMENSIONS
Length 87.2 inches
Width 34.0 inches
Weight 482 pounds
PERFORMANCE
Braking distance (feet/mph) 46feetat30mph
ENGINE
Bore and stroke (inches) 2.76 by 2.52
(cubic centimeters) 738
Compressíon ratio 6.7 to l
Iorque (foot-pounds/rpm) 55.7 at 5,500
FUEL SYSTEM
Carburetors ThreeVM32SCorBS40
Fuel tank capacity 4.5 USgallons
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Type Suzuki CCt
Oíl tank capacity 3.2 US pints
IGNITION SVâTEM
Type Battery and Coil
Spark plugs NGK B-7ES
TRANSMISSION
Primary reduction ratio 1.673 to l
Gear ratios
Ist 2.846 to l
2nd 1.736 to l
3rd 1.363 to l
4th 1.125 to l
Sth 0.923 to l
FR AM E
Steering angle 40 degrees right and left
Gaste r 63 degrees
Trai l 3.74 inches
Tire size
Front 3.25-19
Rear 4.00-18
BRAKES
Type Internai expanding and disc
Diameter
Front 7% inches
Rear 73/4 inches
INDEX
Compression test 7-8

Condenser 82
Air cleaner 17, 22, 138 Cooling system, líquid
Air filter 154 Fan circuit 79
Alternator 83-86 Maintenance 77-79
Radiator 71-72
Radiator cap 72
Thermostat 72-74
Backfiring 142 Troubleshooting 79
Barrei change (GT380) 152 Water pump 74-77
Battery 22, 100-102 Crankcase 49-51
Bearings 70 Crankshaft 50-51
Brake light 99 Crankshaft seals (GT750) 152
Brake problems 143 Cylínder head 33-35
Brakes, dísc Cylinders 35-38
Bleeding 129-130
Caliper 135-137
Description 128-129 D
Disc 137 Drive chain 22, 120
Fluid 129, 130
Hoses and tubing 135
Master cylinHer 131-134
Pads " 130-131 Electrical system
Brakes, internai expanding 125-128 Alternator 83-86
Brakes, performance Jmprovement 150-151 Battery 100-102
Breaker points 11-16 Electric starter 89-95
Horn 99
Ignition system 80-82
Carburetor Lights 97-99
Adjustment 112-113 Rectifier 86-87
Components 113-114 Starter clutch 96-97
Disassembly (BS) 109-110 Starter relay 95-96
Disassembly (VM) 107-109 Voltage regulator 87-89
Float mechanism 103 Engine
Inspection 110-111 Bearings 70
Main fuel system 104-105 Crankcase 49-50
Performance modification 154-156 Crankshaft 50-51
Pilot system 103 Cylinder head 33-35
Problems, miscellaneous 114 Cylinders 35-38
Starter system 105-107 Disassembly, preparation for 29
Tune-up (BS) 19-22 Lubrication 24-26
Tune-up (VM) 19 Noises, unusual 142
Clutch Oil pump 26-29
Adjustment 47-48 Oil seals 70
Inspection 44-47 Operating principies 23-24
Installatíon 47 Performance improvement 151-156
Operation 40-42 Piston, pin, and rings 38-40
Removal 42-44 Removal 29-33
Slip or drag 142-143 Exnaust system 138-139, 153-154
164 INDEX
Fuel strainers 22
Ignitiontiming 16-17
Fan circuit 79 Intervals, maintenance 7
Fiat spols 142 Oil pump 17-18
Forks, front 115-119, 148-149 Spark píugs 8-11
Frame 115 Misfíring 142
Fuel strainer 22 Mufflers 138
Gearshift mechanism 61-70 Oil pump

General information 1-6 Adjustment 17-18, 26-28
Bleeding 28
Check valves 28-29
H Oil 29
Performance modification 152-153
Handlebar 135 Oil seals 70
Handling, poor 143 Overhcatíng 142
Headlight 97
Hcad milling 152
Horn 99
Hubs 121-123
Performance improvement
Engine 151-156
I General 145-146
Idling, poor 142 Overall 156
Sources . . . . . ' 157
Ignition system
Suspension 146-151
Condcnser 82
Pinion, primary 48-49
Igniíion coil 82 Piston, pin, and rings 38-40
Operalion 80
Piston seizure „ 142
Performance modification 156 Port modification 153
Timing 16-17 Power loss 142
Troubleshooting 80-82
K
Kickstarter 55-61 Radiator 71-72
Radiator cap 72
Ram Air (GT380) 152
Rectifier 86-87
Lighting problems 143
Lights 97-99
Lubrication (see Maintenance, lubrication,
and tune-up) Safety hints 6
Scrcws and fasteners 4-6
Service hints l, 4-6
M Shock absorbers 137, 146-148
Spark plugs 8-11
Maintenance, lubrication, and tune-up Specifications
Air cleaner 17 GT3SO 159
Battery service 22 GT550 160
Breaker points 11-16 GT750 161
Carburetor adjustment and Spokes 121
synchronization (BS 40) 19-22 Starter, eleclric
Carburetor adjustment and Dísassembly 90-94
synchronization (VM) 19-20 Operation 89-90
Compression test 7-8 Overhaul 94-95
l
Drive chain 22 Starter clutch 96-97
INDEX 165
Starter relay 95-96 Operatíng difficulties 142-144

Starting difficulties 141-142 Operating requiremcnts 140-141
Steering stem 119-120 Starting difficulties 141-142
Supplies, cxpendable 4 Tune-up (see Mamtenance, lubrication,
Suspension, performance improvement. .. 146-151 and tune-up)
Swinging arm 138, 146 Turn signals 99
V
Thermostat 72-74
Tires 151 Vibration, excessive 142
Tools 1-3 Voltage regulator 87-89
Transmission
Disassembly 51-55
Inspection 55
Primary pinion 48-49 W
Shifter 61-70 Water pump 74-77
Troubleshooting Wheels 120-125, 149-150
SUZUKI
380-750ccTRIPLES • 1972-1977
GT380 GT550 GT750
This easy-to-use manual can save you hundreds of dollars in maintenance

and repair bills. Step-by-step procedures and detailed illustrations
guíde you through every job. Inside, you'11 find:
Quick Reference Data

The specificattons you need most otten—on specially marked pages.
General Information
Tools. lechniques and shop safety.
Períodic Maintenance
Ali tho tasks required by your Suzuki's warranty.
Engine, Transmission and Clutch
Complete overhaui orocedures for your engine. clutch. transmission and kickstarter.
Liquid Coo/í n q System
Radtator replacement: water pump overhaul; radiator cap and thermostat testing
procedures.
JFÍectrícHÍ System
Testou, adjustment and replacement procedures for starting. ignition. charging.
lighting and accessory systems.
Carburetora
Co"nlete overhaul procedures íor your carDurotor; tncluding adjustment and jetting
procedures.
Frame, Suspension and Steering
Wheel and hub service; disc brake linmg replacement, caliper overhauf; drum brake
overhaul: mastei cylinder overhaul, steering head. swing arm and forks overhaul;
shock replacerênt; dnve cham service.
Troubleshooting
Easy-to-fotlow text guides you from symploms to causes.
Performance Improvement
What performance impruvement tricks will and won't do for your bike.
Index
Reference and cross-reference to ali major components and systems.
2 4 1 8 5 20368
CLYMEIt PUBLICA-flOfiS -LOS AftC, K l. ES
47 ISBN: 0-89287-285-3

Clymer Suzuki GT 380 750

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Clymer Suzuki GT 380 750

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M368

380-75Occ TRIPLES • 1972-1977

J2860 MUSCATINE STREET • P.O. BOX 4520-ARLETA, CALIFÓRNIA 91333-4520

QUICK REFERENCE DATA . . . . . . . . VII

Service hints Mcchanic's tips

ENGINE, TRANSMISSION, AND CLUTCH 23

Engine principies Primary pinion

LIQU1D COOLING SYSTEM 71

Ignition system Starter relay

Breaker plate screws

Base plate screvv

in. (mm) In. (mm)

Breaker point gap 0.014 (0.35) GT380 L 0.094 (2.40)

Spark ptug gap 0.028 (0.7) GT380 M 0.090 {2.30r

:: RigHt and left cylindors Centc-r cylinder

Model Turns Throttle cable free play VM carburetors — 0.04 in.

NOTE: Tolerancc for adjustmcnts is -• '/; turn.

GT3SO B; GT550 K, L, M, A, B 12N11-3A-1

SPARK PLUG APPLICATION

SAE 20/40 oil

GT750 M. A, B B-8ES W24ES N2-MC

Transmission Front Fork (each leg)

GT380 J, K 1400 2.9 2.5 210 7.1 5.9

GT380 (allothers) 1500 3.2 2.6 145 4.9 4.1

GT550J, K, L 1500 3.2 2.6 235 7.9 6.6

GT550 f a t l others) 1500 3.2 2.6 160 5.4 4.5

GT750 J, K 2200 4.6 3.9 235 7.9 6.6

GT750 (ali others) 2200 4.6 3.9 160 5.4 4.5

MOTORCYCLE TOOL KIT

2. Timing gauge (Figure 3). Suzuki bikes re-

5. Compression gatige (Figure 6). An engine

For a frozen bolt or nut, apply penetrating

If the head breaks off fíush, as it usually does,

Removing Damaged Screws

1. Center punch 2. Drill hole

3. Tap extractor into hole 4. Remove screw

Figure 11 illustrates damaged screws typical

To obtain the utmost in safety, reliability, and Table l MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

chapter describes such services. Spark plugs x X

2. Remove ali spark plugs. the engine's past history, it is an indication of

SPARK PLUG CONDITIONS

OIL FOULED CARBON FOULED

Photos courtesy of Champion Spark Plug Company.

and within the exhaust port. Combustion cham-

The same tool may be used for removing car-

Piston ring Close the points on a piece of clean white

DENSO BREAKER ASSEMBLY

1. Contact breakerassembly 12. Screw 23. Igniíion coíl assembly

GT380 BREAKER ASSEMBLY

Camshaft driuen gear (Nylon)

tact mounting plate (B) to advance or retard

Spark pluggap 0.028 (0.7)

Ignition timing (distance BTDC)

GT380 A, B 0.082 (2.09)*

5. Release the throttle, tighten pump cable lock- Carburetor Synchronization

Approx. 0.04 in. (Imm)

1. Tlirottlo valve acljustment screw 2. Throttle valve lever

1. Throttle cable adjuster

1. Throttle valve stop screw 10. Pilot screw 18. Mainjeí

ENGINE, TRANSMISSION, AND CLUTCH

Thís chapter describes remova], disassembly,

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Small quantities of oil accumulaíc in each crank