Wiring 101: Basic Tips, Tricks & Tools for Wiring Your Vehicle https://www.onallcylinders.com/2013/12/05/wiring-101-basic-tips-tricks...

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This chart can be used to determine proper wire gauge.

First, figure out the amperage of your electrical
component. Next, measure the required length of your
wire. Then just plug those numbers into this chart to
determine the proper gauge.

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Cars are filled with stuff that can make or break performance. The engine
needs to be fed the proper amounts of air, fuel, and spark. The suspension
and brakes must be in tip-top shape. The wheels and tires, transmission,
cooling system, gauges—even the seats—must all function properly.

With all those things to worry about, many enthusiasts overlook the
electrical wiring system. A lousy wiring job will keep your electrical
accessories from operating at full potential—and that means subpar
performance.

Many people are intimidated by the prospect of wiring a vehicle. But a

proper wiring job doesn’t have to be a scary task—we’ve put together a few
tips to help make the job a little bit smoother.

The proper tools will make your wiring job a whole lot easier. Start with
a quality set of wire strippers. Wire strippers generally include a group of
holes to fit most wire gauges. This allows you to strip the insulation off your
wires without accidentally cutting into the wire conductors.

A good wire crimper is necessary when you install solderless connectors.

Most quality crimpers have two or three sections on the nose to fit various
lug sizes. You can even get crimpers with wire cutting and wire stripping
sections.

A soldering iron is a must for splicing wires or securing oversized connectors

that cannot be crimped. You will need solder designed specifically for
electronics and wiring . It has a midly activated rosin core flux to clean the
wire as it is being heated, removing oxidation and light corrosion. That
allows you to solder with less heat, making the connections stronger with
less electrical resistance.

Here are some other items that should be in your electrical toolbox:

A wire brush for removing heavy corrosion, oil, or grease before

soldering
A volt/ohm meter to measure voltage and resistance levels in your
circuits
A test light to test for power within a circuit
Shrink tubing to insulate connections from outside elements. The tubing

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slides over the connector or solder joint and permanently shrinks when
heated

A factory wiring harness includes the necessary wiring for standard electrical
components like windshield wipers, horn, headlights, etc. However, when
you add electrical or electronic components to your vehicle, like high-end
audio or racing electronics, you need to choose the proper wire on your own.
There are three factors to consider: size, material, and color.

Wire size is measured by gauge—the smaller the gauge number, the larger
the wire. The gauge you need depends on the current draw of the accessory
and the wire length between the accessory and the power source. In general,
the larger the current draw, the larger gauge wire you need to properly
power the accessory.

4-0 0.460

3-0 0.409

2-0 0.364

0 0.329

1 0.289

6 0.162

8 0.128

10 0.101

12 0.081

14 0.064

16 0.050

One factor to consider with long lengths of wire is voltage drop. The longer
the wire, the greater the voltage drop. You can offset voltage drop by
increasing the size of the wire. As a rule of thumb, try to maintain a less than
.5% voltage drop to assure maximum performance.

Wire material is usually aluminum or copper. For automotive purposes,

we recommend stranded copper wire for the greatest flexibility and
conductivity.

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Wire color may not seem important at first glance, but it becomes crucial
when you try to trace a faulty circuit down the road. To keep yourself from
tearing your hair out, color-code your wire by accessory. It will help you keep
track of which wire goes where during installation and troubleshooting.

There are two main types of connectors: soldered and solderless. Soldered
connectors are necessary with oversized wiring or if you’re splicing wires
together. Solderess, or crimp, connectors can be used for most other wiring,
and we’d recommend using them wherever possible.

Solderless connectors are the easiest to use and provide a good, strong
connection. Usually, solderless connectors come with color-coded insulators,
so you know which gauge wire they are designed for. Solderless connectors
come in a variety of configurations:

Butt connectors are shaped like cylinders and are ideal for joining two
wire ends together. A wire end is inserted into each end of the connector,
which is crimped to complete the connection.

Spade connectors are ideal for components that are removed or serviced
often. A male connector on one end of the wire fits into a female connector
on the other end of the wire, completing the connection. To disconnect, just
pull the connectors apart.

Ring connectors are used to secure wire to screw-type terminals; they are
secured by the terminal screw.

When installing any type of connector—soldered or solderless—it is a good

idea to use shrink tubing. Shrink tubing is relatively easy to install and
provides added protection against electrical shorts and outside elements.

There is more to wiring a vehicle than, well, wire. For example, you will need
some sort of overload protection to protect your expensive electronics. The
three basic types of overload protection are fuses, fusible links, and circuit
breakers:

Fuses are designed to blow when the circuits they protect are fed more
power than the fuses are rated for. Fuses are rated by amperage; popular
sizes are 3, 4, 5, 6, 7.5, 10, 12.5, 15, 20, 25, and 30 amp. Always use a fuse
rated slightly higher than the accessory. For example, if an electric fan is
rated at 19.5 amps, use a 25 amp fuse.
Fusible links are another option. They are special wires made from an
alloy with a lower melting point than regular copper wire. The link is
spliced inline with an accessory’s power wire. In the event of an electrical
overload the link will melt, preventing power from reaching the protected
accessory.

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A circuit breaker will switch off power to the protected accessory in an

overload situation. When the overload has been corrected, the circuit
breaker is reset. Circuit breakers come in manual reset and automatic reset
versions, and in the same popular amperage ratings as fuses.

You should also install relays with your wiring if your electrical accessories
require a bigger current draw than a standard power switch is rated to
handle. And since most switches are designed to work with very limited
currents, relays are required just about every time to wire a new aftermarket
electrical accessory.

Relays are extremely useful for

handling high-amperage electrical
accessories like large electric fans, fuel
pumps, and HID headlights. They are
activated by an electric coil and controlled
by a switch. When the relay is closed, no
power goes to the accessory in question.
When you flip the accessory switch, an
electric coil in the relay opens, sending
power to the accessory.

There are plenty of other products to make your wiring tasks easier,
including switch panels, multi-circuit main and auxiliary fuse blocks, toggle,
push-button, and remote-mount switches, and of course, wiring
harnesses for everything from fog lights and gauges to complete vehicles.

Before you begin your wiring project, map out a plan. Lay out the wiring or
wiring harness so you know where each wire goes and that you have enough
wire to complete the job. Locate the fuse box in an easy to reach location like
your glove compartment or center console. Place the necessary relays,
fusible link, or circuit breakers at connections between your power source
and your electrical accessory.

If the wiring isn’t labeled already, label each wire or harness with the name
of the components they route to. If the wiring or harness will be going
through the firewall, use a grommet in the hole so the sheetmetal won’t cut
through the wires. Don’t secure the connectors until the wiring is through
the firewall.

Choose a spot on or near the firewall for the common ground point for the
harness, and one point for a chassis ground on the negative side of the
vehicle. This method gives you a single path to the negative side of the
vehicle and provides a more effective ground. Use 10 gauge or bigger wire to
connect the common ground to your chassis ground.

Take your time, stay organized, remain calm, and you’ll be a wiring wizard

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before you know it!

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Author: David Fuller

David Fuller is OnAllCylinders' managing editor. During his 20-year

career in the auto industry, he has covered a variety of races, shows,
and industry events and has authored articles for multiple magazines.
He has also partnered with mainstream and trade publications on a
wide range of editorial projects. In 2012, he helped establish
OnAllCylinders, where he enjoys covering all facets of hot rodding and
racing.

October 21, 2015 at 11:07 am

“I had Prestige Motors build a 450 hp/383 sbc motor for me, I’m putting it in my 56 Chevy 2 door;
my question is what’s the best correct way to upgrade my wiring? I had a 283 w/327 heads that I
built in high school in 1974 so it has a ballast resistor, voltage regulator, 3 wire alternator; the new
motor has an HEI distributor, 110 1 wire alternator, ac that I’ll convert w Vintage air at a later date.
I’m also installing a Griffin cross flow radiator with condenser and electric fans. Aeromotive fuel
tank w electric fuel pump and regulator. 85551- MSD Pro Billet Distributor 6425- MSD 6AL Series
Ignition box W/Rev Limiter 8207- MSD Blaster SS, E core HP coil. 40,000 Volt”

Reply

October 22, 2015 at 10:50 am

Vaughn, we’d recommend you contact the Summit tech line at 330-630-0240. There
will be a lot of back and forth questions, and this would be the best, quickest way to
get your answers!

Reply

April 21, 2019 at 12:32 pm

87 Honda Accord. Blew 70 amp fuse for battery can’t find one. Do I put the link in the
positive wire

Reply

August 10, 2019 at 12:58 pm

Always fuse the positive side.

Reply

July 22, 2016 at 12:57 pm

I tried to quick charge my PT Cruiser, by using my 65 Bsrcuda running battery, now neither car
battery will turn over each, what did I do?

Reply

October 11, 2018 at 4:56 am

Charge a battery with a mains charger – not another battery.

Reply

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December 7, 2017 at 7:59 pm

Sir! I have a question… I am directly wiring a 10 watt LED strip to a wire where a 4 watt bulb once
was (underneath the dash…)
This under-dash factory lighting system has a 10 watt fuse, do I simply “upgrade” the fuse in the
system by inserting a 15 or will that compromise the other lighting connected to that circuit/fuse
So far no one has been able to answer this and nobody seems to want to wire their led’s to pre-
exsisting factory circuits…
my main aim is to get it to work in tandom with the cab dome light and for the doors to switch them
on when opened…

Reply

December 8, 2017 at 8:44 am

Hey Philip, first off DO NOT simply install a higher rating fuse. The fuse is there to
protect your wiring harness and the fuse rating (in amps, not watts) was specifically
chosen by the engineers for that circuit.
We think you may be in luck with your project however. LEDs can often require less
current (amps) than a traditional incandescent bulb. It’s entirely possible that your
10W LED actually pulls less current than the OE 4W incandescent bulb–even though
it has a higher wattage.
The only way to be sure though, is to test your LED’s current draw using a multimeter.
Its a relatively easy process. If you’re unsure how to do it, we found this handy tutorial
here. Don’t have a mulitmeter? They’re relatively cheap and a must-have if you’re
doing any electrical work.
If you’re hesitant to cut up your original wire harness, companies make LEDs with
traditional bulb sockets (194, bayonet, etc.) that will install just like the original
incandescent.

Reply

September 23, 2018 at 2:59 pm

I kind of have a complicating situation. So the easiest way to go about this is to start at the beginning.
I’ll make this as short as possible. Boyfriend was driving my 2001 Infiniti QX4 on the freeway,
notices lights start blinking and truck is overheating. He pulls over at a convenience store. Waits a
bit, Puts water in. Tries driving again and ends up having to park it on side of road cause he noticed
the fan has completely come off the pulley bracket. Belt is off. Blew a hole in radiator. I have it towed
home next day, get in contact with a mobile mechanic he comes out and diagnoses it. $50. Tells me
what I need to get, so I purchase a new radiator, an electric fan, a new bracket, and a wiring kit to
engage the electric fan. Pay the mechanic $300 to come install it all. Does it all in about an hour.
Calls me at work, tells me it all works, everything is good. But thing is, is that my truck battery was
dead from having everything disconnected. He never drove it afterwards or anything. I drive my
truck next day everythings fine. Next day, I get on freeway and it starts getting hot. And rising. My
neighbor takes a look at it cause it’s no longer starting right, starts rigging shit, cutting all the wires
on the fan wiring kit, electrical taping shit, next thing I know it’s all ghetto. After all this I take a look
under the hood, notice the battery wires are connected super bad, if barely at all. I get new 2 way
battery cable connector things for both + and -, have to cut the cables and twist the thick gauged
wires as much as I can in order for them to fit in the metal connector things. Then I notice that 2
wires that are striped red and white wrapped and connected into one (which I’m guessing are + and
– which I also think are the acc wires but I’m not too too sure,) have been exposed and the red plastic
connector has been completely taken off which was connecting those wires to the + battery cable. So
now I had to souder those 2 wires (which were just stubs and couldn’t be held by the cable wire
connector into the cable connector) in order for me to complete the connection to the + battery
cable. But now it seems like the whole battery issues is worse. The jump starter I bought to jump it
every time I have to start my vehicle gets drained now and sometimes it struggles to turn over. At
times it doesn’t at all. I am waiting for my paycheck to purchase anything I need to get cause I’ve
kind of lacked the proper things I need and I’ve put a lot of money into this already. I don’t trust
anybody else to screw with it. If I can do this myself I will. I’m pretty knowledgeable of vehicles. I’m
not a pro or anything but I know a little more than basic common stuff regarding vehicles and I’m
usually a good troubleshooter for a girl. Please tell me what’s wrong and what to do!! And why I’m
having such battery issues. Another couple things to help with what you think it could be, when I
start my truck I can smell the sulfuric acid when I’m outside and through the a/c vents. Also, when
my truck is idling or at a stop my a/c goes warm instantly and it’s only cold when I’m actually in
motion. And as of the past few days all the dash lights and the battery light stay on while driving and
at night when I’m using my headlights they go haywire and flicker on and off. Sometimes I have to
physically go hit the front head light for it to kick on but then the other one goes out. Please help!!
I’m about to sell this thing or start breaking it with a hammer. I’m fed up.

Reply

September 27, 2020 at 3:06 pm

It appears there are a few things that may be going on here, you likely need a new
battery and im betting there is an alternator issue.

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November 25, 2018 at 1:54 am

Gentlemen,
My fuse block has the barrel glass fuses. I want to add a voltage gauge. I’ve grounded the gauge and
its light ok,but my fuse panel is full- thus nowhere to plug the other two wires (light and power).
How can I do it?
I remember decades ago, there was a connection available that saddled one end of the fuse and had a
spade on its top side that one simply plugged in the wire for the power. I can’t find them anywhere.
Thanks for your help. John

Reply

March 12, 2019 at 3:06 pm

I have a unique situation. The key is stuck in the vehicle steering wheel. Got damaged when the
children were playing and knocked the key crooked. I’m old school and tired of having to unplug the
car after driving and plugging it up on cold days. I live in Michigan. I want to know how to put an old
school toggle switch or a relay in the impala to cut the power from the battery to everything else
without going under the hood. Thanks for any help given.

Reply

December 8, 2021 at 11:42 pm

Assuming here that you don’t really want the starter isolated. The starter doesn’t draw
any current until the starter wire is energised anyway.
Cut the wire that goes from the battery to the fuse box.
Connect the hot side (12V from battery) to the 12V input and the switch/coil input.
Run a wire from the switch/coil ground (-ve) to the toggle swtich and wire the other
side of the toggle switch to ground.
Connect the wire that goes to the fuse box to the 12V output / relay output pin.
You will need a relay that can handle the total draw of your electrical system. Easiest
thing is to go off your alternator rating and double it.
Typically 4 pin relays have pins 85 and 86 for the coil input and output and power
input pin 30 and power out pin 87. in my above example pin 30 and pin 85 would be
wired together

Reply

April 2, 2019 at 1:14 pm

May I use a batt operated auto jumper on me car batt cables to test wiring???

Reply

August 22, 2019 at 7:15 pm

It was interesting to read that relays handle high-intensity parts of cars like HID headlights. My
uncle has been wanting to rebuild a car but he’s got no clue as to what he’s doing with the electrical
side. I’ll suggest he go talk to a professional for some help.

Reply

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October 22, 2019 at 11:16 pm

Hi
I want to run wire for my auto stereo install under my truck, I have a 2010 f150.
I will be running a piece of 0/1 guage wire, 3 sets of rca interconnects, a blue wire to turn my amps
on, 4 set of speaker wire.
I also want to run a 4 guage power wire to my box as well as the video wire for my back up camera.
How hard is it to remove the rocker panel covers where the wires are usually installed and replace
the covers. One guy I talked to said he had a tough time getting them back on and they are still not
right.
What are the best products to run the wires in when running them under the vehicle.
Thanks in advance
John

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September 27, 2020 at 3:11 pm

Is there a reason you want to run them under the vehicle the back up cam I
understand but not so much the amp and radio stuff, you can do a clean professional
install running such wiring under the carpet.

Reply

July 1, 2020 at 8:56 pm

Thanks for pointing out that circuit breakers can reset manually and automatically depending on the
type. I’m currently looking for a mobile truck repair service because I’ve been having problems with
the electrical components of my truck and I’m afraid that if I try to troubleshoot it on my own, I
might end up damaging it further. I hope I can find a repair service that will be able to diagnose and
make repairs on the same day so I can save a good amount of time.

Reply

July 8, 2020 at 4:52 pm

I have a 1989 E150 Ford Club Wagon. The wiring was trashed. I ran Positive Battery cable to
solenoid. Negative batt cable to ground. One on body panel and one on engine block. I ran wire from
solenoid to Ign switch (going through neutral safety switch) ran starter cable from neg side of sol
straight to starter. When I short the sol I get the starter to turn. When I turn the key I get nothing. I
have a new starter switch and key cylinder installed. Why can’t I get it to turn over?

Reply

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January 17, 2021 at 10:24 pm

I’m doing a complete rewire on my ’66 MGB. An stock replacement harness has four glass fuse, total!
A prefab performance harness is Megabucks. I want to use Weatherpak connectors but the
Weatherpak crimping tool is really expensive. Is there a much less costly alternative?

Reply

April 22, 2021 at 3:36 pm

Where does BPube wire connect?

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