Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Authors:
Pearl E Grimes, MD
Valerie D Callender, MD, FAAD
Section Editor:
Robert P Dellavalle, MD, PhD, MSPH
Deputy Editor:
Rosamaria Corona, MD, DSc
Contributor Disclosures
All topics are updated as new evidence becomes available and our peer review process is
complete.
Literature review current through: Nov 2020. | This topic last updated: Jul 30, 2020.
Several studies support the use of ultraviolet (UV) and visible light protection in
the treatment and prevention of melasma:
●In a Moroccan study, 185 pregnant women in their first trimester (15
percent with a previous history of melasma and 6 percent with current
melasma) were asked to apply the sunscreen every two hours [15]. Skin
color stayed the same or became lighter in 79 percent of the women
throughout their pregnancy, and only five women (2.7 percent) developed
new-onset melasma. The authors previously reported that 53 percent of
pregnant women in the same geographical area developed melasma
during pregnancy. Eight of the 12 women with pre-existing melasma
improved.
●An eight-week, randomized trial assessed the efficacy of a broad-
spectrum sunscreen with an SPF ≥50 with or without iron oxide as a visible
light-absorbing pigment in 68 patients with melasma receiving
4% hydroquinone as a depigmenting treatment [16]. A greater improvement
in the Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) score and colorimetry
occurred in the group using the combination visible light and broad-
spectrum sunscreen formulation compared with the group using the broad-
spectrum sunscreen only.
●Another randomized study performed in the spring and summer compared
two identical sunscreen formulations, with the exception that one was tinted
and contained iron oxide (UV plus visible light protection) and the other did
not (UV light protection only) [11]. Thirty-nine patients applied the cream
twice daily, with an additional application every 2 hours and 30 minutes
before exposure to sunlight. Maximal reduction in the MASI score occurred
in the group using the UV and visible light formulation.
Cosmetic camouflage — Cosmetic camouflage is a technique that uses
makeup to conceal skin lesions and normalize the appearance of the skin [17].
It can mitigate the psychosocial impact of melasma and improve the patient's
quality of life [3,18,19]. Anhydrous (water-proof) foundations that contain
titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and iron oxide provide a dual benefit, as they act as
cosmetic concealers and sunscreen. Cosmetic camouflage can be used during
active treatment.
First-line therapies — Topical skin-lightening agents are the first-line therapy
for melasma (algorithm 1). (See 'Topical skin-lightening agents' below.)
For patients with mild melasma, we suggest hydroquinone 4% cream as first-
line therapy. Hydroquinone can be applied to the affected areas once or twice
daily for two to four months and up to six months, followed by maintenance
treatment for six months or longer. (See 'Hydroquinone' below
and 'Maintenance therapy and prevention of relapse' below.)
There is considerable variation among clinicians in their prescribing practices
for hydroquinone, regarding both the concentration used and the treatment
duration. In the authors' experience, hydroquinone can be safely and effectively
used beyond six months, if needed. In many cases, however, a rotational
treatment that cycles on and off hydroquinone and non-hydroquinone skin-
lightening agents seems to optimize outcomes. (See 'Non-hydroquinone
agents' below.)
Non-hydroquinone skin lighteners, such as azelaic acid, kojic acid, or
niacinamide, alone or in combinations, can be used as alternative first-line
therapies, particularly in patients who do not tolerate or have a demonstrated
allergy to hydroquinone. Of note, azelaic acid is one of a few agents that, if
needed, can be used in pregnant women. (See 'Azelaic acid' below.)
For patients with moderate to severe melasma, the fluocinolone, hydroquinone,
and tretinoin triple combination cream (TCC) is preferred to hydroquinone 4%
cream as initial treatment. The cream is applied nightly for two to four months.
The TCC is the only US Food and Drug Administration-approved melasma
treatment. (See 'Triple combination cream' below.)
Second-line therapies — Chemical peels and oral tranexamic acid are
second-line therapies for patients with melasma that does not respond to topical
therapies alone (algorithm 1). (See 'Chemical peels' below and 'Oral
agents' below.)
Superficial chemical peels commonly used for the treatment of melasma include
glycolic acid, other alpha-hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, Jessner's peel,
and trichloroacetic acid (table 1). Several sessions (approximately five to six)
administered at two- to four-week intervals can be used as an adjunct to regular
use of hydroquinone or non-hydroquinone lightening agents (table 2). Because
chemical peels temporarily remove epidermal melanin without affecting
melanogenesis or melanocytes, patients should be aware that any
improvements will probably be temporary. (See 'Chemical peels' below
and "Chemical peels: Procedures and complications".)
Skin priming is essential to optimize outcomes with chemical peels.
Priming, or preparing the skin, involves the application of topical skin-
lightening agents, such as hydroquinone and tretinoin, prior to the peeling
procedure, with the aim of enhancing the effect of the chemical peel and
decreasing the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation [20]. Priming
should be done for at least two to four weeks. Lightening agents can be
continued up to the time of peeling, whereas tretinoin should be
discontinued at least 7 to 10 days before the procedure. Tretinoin
significantly increases the depth of dermal penetration of the peeling agent,
which can lead to untoward complications. (See "Chemical peels:
Procedures and complications", section on 'Skin preparation'.)
Oral tranexamic acid, a hemostatic agent with antiplasmin activity, has shown
efficacy in the treatment of melasma at an average dose of 250 mg twice daily
[21-23]. However, relapses invariably occur upon discontinuing oral therapy.
Although the dose used in clinical studies for the treatment of melasma is
considerably lower than that used to treat hemorrhagic conditions (3500 mg
daily), general concerns linger regarding the safety profile, given tranexamic
acid's propensity to induce thromboembolic phenomena [10]. Therefore,
patients should be thoroughly screened for thrombotic risk factors before
starting oral tranexamic acid (table 3) [3,24]. (See "Overview of the causes of
venous thrombosis".)
Third-line therapies — Lasers and light therapies are third-line therapies for
melasma, appropriate for patients in whom topical treatments and often
chemical peels have failed to produce adequate improvement (algorithm 1) [6].
Importantly, lasers and light sources should be used with great care and caution
in darker-skinned individuals due to the risk of postinflammatory
hyperpigmentation. (See 'Lasers and light therapies' below.)
Patients should be informed that lasers and light therapies are not cures for
melasma. Indeed, approximately one-half of patients experience a recurrence
within three to six months of the end of treatment, irrespective of the device
used. Moreover, the recurrence may be associated with more intense
pigmentation, which may be recalcitrant to subsequent treatment. Thus,
clinicians should counsel patients about the importance of adhering to a
maintenance regimen to minimize the risk of recurrence following laser or light
therapy [6]. (See 'Maintenance therapy and prevention of relapse' below.)
Maintenance therapy and prevention of relapse — Routine approaches for
prevention of relapse involve the aggressive use of broad-spectrum and visible
light sunscreens as well as maintenance treatment with non-hydroquinone
lighteners, such as azelaic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide, and retinoids, all of
which are commonly used in the authors' practice (table 2 and algorithm 1).
Additionally, intermittent use of hydroquinone 4% cream or TCC twice weekly
can be incorporated in the maintenance regimen to maintain clearance.
topical skin-lightening agents have been used for the treatment of melasma.
Many of them act as tyrosinase inhibitors or interfere with other steps in melanin
production and transfer (table 2). Novel agents that are also used as primary or
maintenance agents include combination hydroquinone-free preparations
and cysteamine [10]. (See 'Non-hydroquinone agents' below.)
Hydroquinone — Topical hydroquinone was first noted to lighten the skin in
1936 and was initially used to treat clinical hyperpigmentation in 1961 [2]. It
inhibits the conversion of tyrosine to melanin by competitively inhibiting
tyrosinase [25-27]. Inhibition of DNA and RNA synthesis by melanocytes and
increased melanosome degradation may also contribute to hydroquinone's
mechanism of action [3,5,28].
Numerous hydroquinone formulations are now available, either as monotherapy
or combined with other skin-lightening agents or exfoliants, such as glycolic acid
or tretinoin [2,29] (see 'Triple combination cream' below). Concentrations range
from 2% or less, in over-the-counter (OTC) formulations, to 4% or more,
available by prescription only [2]. Hydroquinone rapidly oxides, and tretinoin
may reduce hydroquinone oxidation [9,29].
Efficacy — A 2009 systematic review of 31 randomized and uncontrolled
studies assessing topical treatments, chemical peels, lasers, and other
therapies in Latin American patients with melasma concluded
that hydroquinone 4% monotherapy, triple combination cream (TCC;
hydroquinone 4%, tretinoin 0.05%, and fluocinolone acetate 0.01%), and double
combinations (eg, 4% hydroquinone and 0.1% tretinoin) were the most
appropriate treatments for mild melasma, while TCC was the most appropriate
first-line treatment for moderate to severe melasma [7].
A 2010 systematic review of 20 randomized trials (2125 participants) examining
the efficacy of 23 treatments concluded that TCC was more effective at
lightening melasma compared with hydroquinone 4% alone or dual
combinations of hydroquinone and tretinoin or hydroquinone
and fluocinolone acetonide [30]. However, the included studies were generally
of poor quality and could not be pooled for analysis due to considerable
heterogeneity.
Adverse effects — Hydroquinone can lighten normal skin pigmentation.
However, pigment will return to normal upon discontinuation of the product [31].
Acute complications following hydroquinone application include irritation (the
most common reaction), allergic contact dermatitis, postinflammatory
hyperpigmentation, and hypopigmentation [2]. Patients may develop erythema
and peeling after using TCC [4]. The irritation (eg, itching, burning, and stinging
sensations) was generally mild [2].
Other chronic adverse events associated with hydroquinone include nail
discoloration, ocular side effects, and exogenous ochronosis. Nail discoloration
seems to be a result of oxidation and polymerization of byproducts due to
chronic hydroquinone use. Ocular complications are rare [26]. Exogenous
ochronosis typically presents as asymptomatic hyperpigmentation, erythema,
papules, papulonodules, and gray-blue colloid milia on sun-exposed skin and
often proves difficult to treat (picture 1 and picture 2 and picture 3) [7,26].
(See "Topical skin-lightening agents: Complications associated with misuse",
section on 'Hydroquinone'.)
Despite extensive use in the United States, hydroquinone-related
exogenous ochronosis is uncommon, especially compared with the number
of cases in Africa [32]. The routine use of sunscreens and the relative
absence of resorcinol-containing and hydroethanolic formulations (which
may increase hydroquinone absorption) in developed countries may
account for these geographical differences [26]. Nevertheless,
hydroquinone is banned in some African and European countries [10].
There have been concerns about a possible link between hydroquinone and
malignancies. However, hydroquinone occurs naturally in some foods, including
coffee, tea, wheat, pears, and blueberries. No retrospective case series,
prospective study, or epidemiologic evaluation in the United States suggests a
causative link between hydroquinone and malignancies [29]. Another literature
review revealed no cases of skin cancer, internal malignancies, or hepatic
dysfunction related to topical hydroquinone use for skin lightening [10]. In
general, hydroquinone and TCC are well tolerated and supported by a long
history of use.
Contraindications — Hydroquinone is contraindicated in pregnant and
breastfeeding women and in patients with documented allergy.
Triple combination cream — The fluocinolone, hydroquinone, and tretinoin
cream, also called triple combination cream (TCC), is the only US Food and
Drug Administration-approved melasma treatment [33]. The various
components of the TCC have complementary effects that act synergistically to
produce the clinical benefits:
●Hydroquinone is a competitive tyrosinase inhibitor that inhibits the
conversion of tyrosine to melanin. (See 'Hydroquinone' above.)
●Topical retinoids (including tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene) improve
melasma by promoting turnover of keratinocytes [3]. Topical retinoids may
also inhibit tyrosinase as well by enhancing the penetration
of hydroquinone [2,29]. However, the onset of action when retinoids are
used as monotherapy is usually longer than hydroquinone, taking
approximately 24 weeks for significant lightening to emerge [34]. Tretinoin
is available in various doses (from 0.01 to 0.1%) and formulations (eg,
creams, gels, lotions, and solutions) but is not approved in the United
States as monotherapy for melasma [2].
●Topical corticosteroids may directly inhibit melanogenesis by reducing
production of inflammatory mediators, such as prostaglandins and
leukotrienes [2]. Few studies, however, have assessed the efficacy of
corticosteroids as monotherapy [2]. The topical corticosteroid in the TCC
also reduces irritation induced by the other two ingredients [9].
Efficacy — The efficacy of the TCC for the treatment of melasma has been
evaluated in randomized trials and in a systematic review [30,35,36]:
●In a randomized trial, 260 Asian women with moderate to severe melasma
were treated with the TCC or hydroquinone 4% cream [35]. At eight weeks
in the per protocol analysis, more participants in the TCC group than in the
hydroquinone group had a global severity score of "none" or "mild" (64
versus 39 percent). Similar results were obtained in the intention-to-treat
population (59 versus 36 percent). Adverse events were reported in 49
percent of patients in the TCC group and 14 percent of those in the
hydroquinone group and included erythema, irritation, desquamation, and
skin discomfort.
●In another study, 641 patients received the TCC or dual combination
creams (tretinoin 0.05% and hydroquinone 4%, tretinoin 0.05%
and fluocinolone acetonide 0.01%, hydroquinone 4% and fluocinolone
acetonide 0.01%) twice daily for eight weeks [36]. In the TCC group, 26
percent had complete clearing of melasma compared with 9.5, 1.9, and 2.5
percent in each of the dual combination creams, respectively. Adverse
effects included erythema, desquamation, burning, dryness, and pruritus.
●A 2010 systematic review of 20 randomized trials (2125 participants)
examining the efficacy of 23 treatments concluded that the TCC was more
effective at lightening melasma compared with hydroquinone 4% alone or
dual combinations of hydroquinone and tretinoin or hydroquinone
and fluocinolone acetonide [30]. The included studies were heterogeneous
and generally of low quality.
Intermittent use of the TCC may be effective in preventing melasma relapse in
some patients [37,38]:
●In a randomized trial, 242 patients with moderate to severe melasma who
had no or mild melasma after eight weeks of daily TCC treatment were
assigned to a six-month maintenance treatment with the TCC in a twice-
weekly or tapering regimen (three times weekly for one month, two times
weekly for two months, and one time weekly for one month) [37]. At six
months, 54 and 53 percent of patients were relapse-free in the two groups,
respectively.
●In an open-label study by the author's group, 52 patients applied the TCC
daily for 12 weeks. Of these, 27 patients who were clear or almost clear at
12 weeks started maintenance therapy with the TCC twice weekly for an
additional 12 weeks, while 25 patients who were not clear or almost clear at
12 weeks continued daily treatment [38]. Of the 27 patients on
maintenance therapy, 21 relapsed and restarted daily treatment, and 6
remained on maintenance TCC throughout follow-up. At 24 weeks, 68
percent of patients in all groups combined were clear or had mild melasma.
Scores on a 10-point patient satisfaction score (where 10 was the best)
averaged approximately 9, and patients wanted to continue treatment [38].
Contraindications and adverse effects — The TCC is contraindicated in
pregnant and breastfeeding women. Adverse effects include skin irritation,
desquamation, and burning. Adverse effects of hydroquinone are discussed
above. (See 'Adverse effects' above.)
Non-hydroquinone agents
Azelaic acid — Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase and shows antiproliferative and
cytotoxic effects on several tumor cell lines in vitro [5,31]. In randomized trials,
azelaic acid 20% cream has been shown to be as effective as
4% hydroquinone cream but more effective than 2% hydroquinone cream
[39,40].
Skin lightening produced by azelaic acid typically takes one to two months to
develop [34]. Between 1 and 5 percent of patients treated with 20% azelaic acid
report pruritus, burning, stinging, and tingling. More rarely, patients experience
erythema, dryness, rash, peeling, irritation, and dermatitis [2].
Of note, azelaic acid is a US Food and Drug Administration category B agent
and, thus, one of the few ones that can be used for the treatment of melasma
during pregnancy, if needed (table 4).
Kojic acid — Kojic acid is derived from a species
of Aspergillus and Penicillium. It inhibits tyrosinase by chelating copper at the
enzyme's active site. Kojic acid is widely used in Asia and is available in several
OTC formulations at 2% in the United States, but when used as monotherapy, it
seems to be less effective than hydroquinone [3,7,29]. Patients who are
intolerant of hydroquinone may also consider kojic acid [8].
In a 12-week, split-face study, 40 Chinese women with melasma were treated
on one-half of the face with kojic acid 2% in a gel containing glycolic acid 10%
and hydroquinone 2% and on the other half with a comparable formula without
kojic acid [41]. Melasma improvement of ≥50 percent (based on reduction in
melasma area and degree of lightening) occurred in more sides treated with
kojic acid than in the control sides (60 versus 47.5 percent, respectively).
Several studies have reported that kojic acid is a sensitizer, and it has been
associated with mutagenicity and contact dermatitis [8,29].
Niacinamide — Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is the physiologically
active form of niacin or vitamin B3 [42]. Niacinamide blocks the transfer of
melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. It has an anti-inflammatory
effect and increases the biosynthesis of ceramides, as well as other stratum
corneum lipids with enhanced epidermal permeability barrier function.
Several studies have documented the efficacy of niacinamide and niacinamide-
based formulations for treatment of melasma. In an eight-week, left-right,
randomized trial, 27 women with melasma were randomized to receive
niacinamide 4% cream on one side of the face and hydroquinone 4% on the
other [43]. The Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) score decreased by
70 percent from baseline in the sides treated with hydroquinone and by 62
percent in the sides treated with niacinamide. Moreover, good to excellent
improvement was reported in 44 percent of patients with niacinamide and 55
percent with hydroquinone 4%. Niacinamide reduced the mast cell infiltrate and
showed improvement in solar elastosis as well.
Rucinol — Rucinol is a resorcinol derivative that inhibits tyrosinase and
tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), another enzyme in the melanin
biosynthetic pathway. The efficacy of rucinol was assessed in a randomized,
split-face trial of 32 women with melasma who applied 0.3% rucinol serum or
vehicle twice daily for 12 weeks, followed by open treatment of the full face for
an additional 12 weeks [44]. At 12 weeks, the mean MASI score was lower for
the rucinol-treated sides than for the sides treated with vehicle (6.2 versus 6.7,
respectively).
Cysteamine — Cysteamine is a naturally occurring antioxidant produced during
the coenzyme A metabolism cycle in all mammalian cells. The efficacy of
cysteamine hydrochloride cream for the treatment of melasma has been
documented in a few randomized trials [45-47]. In one trial that enrolled 50
patients treated with 5% cysteamine cream or placebo applied once daily for
four months, the MASI scores and colorimetric values were lower in the
cysteamine group than in the placebo group [46]. Side effects occurred in nearly
all patients in the cysteamine group but were mild and included erythema,
dryness, itching, burning, and irritation.
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine — Undecylenoyl phenylalanine is an antagonist
of alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone, beta-adrenergic receptors, and stem
cell receptors. In a randomized study, 40 women with melasma applied topical
undecylenoyl phenylalanine 2% or vehicle twice daily for 12 weeks; 37 patients
completed the study [48]. Seventeen of the 20 patients using undecylenoyl had
a partial response, with 11 showing a moderate improvement and 6 showing a
marked improvement. No patient showed a total response. Adverse effects
were mild and included erythema, itching, and burning at the application site.
Combination hydroquinone-free preparations — A combination
hydroquinone-free preparation containing a variety of topical skin-lightening
agents has been formulated to address the multiple pathways involved in the
induction of hyperpigmentation [49,50]. These pathways include melanocyte
activation, melanosome development, melanin synthesis, melanosome transfer,
and keratinocyte differentiation and desquamation. It is available online and
dispensed in clinicians' offices.
In a randomized trial of 43 patients with melasma or postinflammatory
hyperpigmentation, a facial serum containing tranexamic acid, tetrapeptides,
plankton extracts, niacinamide, phenylethyl resorcinol, and undecylenoyl
phenylalanine showed overall comparable efficacy to hydroquinone 4% [49]. In
another 12-week study assessing a different combination formulation, a facial
serum containing 3% tranexamic acid, 1% kojic acid, and 5% niacinamide
reduced the hyperpigmentation in 55 Brazilian women with mild to moderate
melasma (n = 48) or postinflammatory hyperpigmentation compared with
baseline.
Topical and intradermal tranexamic acid — Topical preparations
of tranexamic acid have been evaluated for the treatment of melasma in a few
studies [51-55]. A topical 5% solution of tranexamic acid was compared with
3% hydroquinone in a 12-week, randomized trial including 100 patients with
melasma [51]. Both treatments reduced the MASI score by 27 percent from
baseline. Mild erythema and irritation were reported in 19 of 50 patients in the
hydroquinone group and only in 3 of 50 in the tranexamic group.
Intralesional microinjection of tranexamic acid may improve local tolerability of
the drug, while resulting in a deeper and more even intradermal distribution of
the drug [56]. In an open study, 85 patients received weekly microinjections for
12 weeks. MASI scores significantly decreased from 13 at baseline to 9 at 8
weeks and 7.6 at 12 weeks [56]. Eight (9 percent) of 85 patients rated the
improvement as good (51 to 75 percent lightening) and 65 (76.5 percent) as fair
(26 to 50 percent lightening). The remainder regarded the improvement as poor.
All patients tolerated microinjections well [56].
ORAL AGENTS