Chapter 2 Part A:
Air-cooled two-stroke engines
(Sfera 50/80, all Typhoons, Zip and Zip 50,
ET2, NRG MC3 DT, Liberty 50, NRG Power DT,
Fly 50, LX2 50, LXV50, S50, Skipper)
Refer to the beginning of Chapter 1 for model identification details
Contents
‘Anat rotor and stator - removal an instalation 2
‘Cooling fan removal and inetaliaton. i
‘Grankcase halves. crankshaft and connecting fod and bosrings 15,
yinder = removal, inspection and instalation
Cinder head = decarborisation 0 Chat
Cynder head ~ removal, inspection and instalation.
Disassembly and reassembly ~ general information ieee
Engiestansmission unit removal and installation 5
General information
cia speed ~ check and adjustment ee Chapter
Inial start-up after overhaul "6
Degrees of difficulty
Major engine repair - gonera
Gpretore posse win tre engine nib ame
Operations requring engine removal. -
Piston = removal, inspection and installation
Piston rings inspection and instalation.
Recommended running: procedure
Spark lug gap = check and adjustment.
1 Starter motor - removal and instalation
4
f2
3
8 Ol une and bet -romova inspect, siation nc beng 14
rd
hi7
* ee hac
Starter pinion assembly ~ removal, hnepecion ad intlton,
‘Chapter 9
13
seat
Faityeimeut, S| Ditcly sutabofor
suber compatert
a alle ake IE
Specifications
‘Sfera 50, Typhoon 50 (’93 to '05), Zip, ET2, NRG MC° DT, Liberty 50
General
‘Type ‘Single cylinder two-stroke
Chscty Sates
Boe 00mm
Stoke S03mn
Compression ao joowt440,000 mm
$40,008 mm
40.010 mm
Size-code E 40.015
tstoversize .. 40.195 to 40.215 mm
2nd oversize... 40.305 to 40.415 mm
Connecting rod
‘Smal-ond internal dametor
‘Sze! . 17.007 t0 17.011 mm
SEO Kessesesses 17.008 to 17.007 mm
Ota hisessidinns> 17.001 t0 17.008 mm
Piston
Piston diameter (measured 25 mm down from lower ing groove, at 90° to piston pin axis)
39.940. mm
38.945 mm.
39.050 mm.
39.955 mm
39.960 mm.
40.140 0 40.160 mm
140340 to 40360 mm
10,050 to 0.080 mm
17,999 t0 12,005 mm
0.1010 0.25 mm
0.03 mm
(0.02 mm
(003 to 0,09 mm
33t041 Nm
33041 Nm
1010 11 Nm
S)12t0 13 Nm
40 t0 44 Nm
a@.ace
40.0 mm
393mm
yo3t01
40,005 to 40.012 mm
40,012 to 40.019 mm
40.019 to 40.026 mm
40,026 to 40.033 mm
140206 to 40.238 mm
401406 to 40.438 mm
17.003 017.011 mm
17.080 mm
‘Single cylinder two-stroke—
Air-cooled two-stroke engines 2Ae3
Piston |
Pleton clameter (measured 25 mm down from lower ring groove, at 90° to piston pin axis)
‘Standard
Pia COE os ou ars dovancs tad cesses: 99,949 t 99.060 mm
1S RR, Said Be 39,950 to 39.957 mm
‘Size code 0 : SA. 88,857 to 88.964 mm "
‘Size code P. ‘ 39,964 to 39.971 mm
st oversize. 40.143 t0 40.171 mm
2nd oversize 3 STII 40.349 0 40371 mm |
Piston to-bor ciearancs
Piston pin diamator «.
Piston pin bore diameter in platon
(0.058 to 0.069 mn
112,001 to 12.005 mm
12.007 10 12012 mm
Piston rings
ing end gop (netae) 0.1010 0.25 mm '
Crankshaft |
Funout max) ]
‘Ard nd ohare 0.03 mm
‘Atiht-hand end TSE. mm f
Endtoat TEES 0008t@0.00mm |
Torque settings
Engine trot mount bo. 331041 Nm
Raa shook abeorber lower mourting |v... sco siscs cscs 88641 Nm
Cylinder head nuts. . . 100.11 Nm
Crankease bots ‘ E 212i 1aNm
‘Armator rotor nt. = 401044 Nm
Sfera 80, Typhoon 80
Single cylinder two-stroke
Tar es {
485mm
4¢omm
104101
46.495 to 46.525 mm
17.007 017.011 mm
7.0080 17.007 mm
| 17.001 to 17.008 mm
Piston
Pn daetr (reamed 25 down frm ower in rove a SO to pston pn a
‘Standard 46.465 to 4.495 mm
Piston-to-bore clearance ie (0.025 to 0.035 me *
Piston pin clameter « SOT 11,890 t0 12.006 mm
iston rings
Fing end gap (instal) 03010025 mm
Crankshaft ;
Funaut (ras)
‘Xt mda and le-hand end. a + 003mm
‘rgnehand ender 202mm {
endfost nsec 8.0310 009 mm | |
Torque settings | 4
Engine front mounting bolt... .-......6s6s0eseesseee ‘9310 41 Nm |
Rear shock absorber lower ming <0. 2020000000 COULD aseanm
Oyindernead nutes = Gene 2 Sot 11m
Grankease bots 0.002000 III 22 aw iaNm
‘aerator rotor ma 40t0 44m2Ae4 Air-cooled two-stroke engines
Typhoon 125, Skipper
54,900 to 54.905 mm
‘54,905 to 55.000 mm
55.000 to 55.005 mm
'55.005 to 58.010 mm
155.010 10 55.015 mm
TOT) 580015 to 85.020 mm
STEIN. $8020 10 85.085 mm
CIITA 58.008 t0 $8.00 mm
z 85,080 to $5,035 mm
20,008 t0 20.013 mm
20,008 to 20.010 mm
19,999 to 20,006 mm
19.997 to 20.002 mm
154,945 to 64.950 mm
54.950 to 64.955 mm
54,955 to 84.960 mm
54,960 to 4,965 mm
54.965 to 84.970 mm
54.970 t0 84975 mm
54,975 to 64.980 mm
54,980 to 84.985 mm
'54.985 to 64,990 mm
(0.040 to 0.050 mm
15,989 to 16.006 mm
0.2010 0.35 mm
0.03 mm
0.03 0 0.09 mm
33t0 41 Nm
33041 Nm
we 2 22t023Nm
ST 5210 86NNmAir-cooled two-stroke engines 2Ae5
1. General information
Tho engine unit is @ single cylinder
two-stroke, with fan-asslated ar cooling, The
fan is mounted on the aerator rotor, which
's onthe right-hand ened of the crankshaf. The
Crankshaft assembly is pressed, incorporating
the connecting rod, with the big-end running
on the ankor on aneeiroer bag, The
piston also runs on @ nm
bearing fitted in the small
‘connecting rod. The crankshaft runs in caged
ball main bearings. The erankoase divides
vertical
2
eee
‘Al components and assemblies, with the
‘exception of the crankshattVeonnecting rod
and its bearings, can be worked on without
having to remove
umber of areas require attention atthe same
time, removal of the engin i recommended,
{as tis easy todo so.
3. Operations requiring engine
removal
‘To access the crankshalt and connecting
od and its bearings, the engine must be
removed from the frame and the crankcase,
halves must be separate.
4 Major engine repair -
1 tis not always easy to dotormir
for if an engine should be com
‘overhauled, 35 a number of factors must be
considered
2 High mieage snot necessary an indication
‘that an overhaul is needed, while low mieage,
on the other hand, doesnot preclude the nood
for an overnaul. Frequency of servicing is
probably the single most Important
Consideration. An engine that has regular and
frequent maintenance will most likely give
many miles of reliable service, Conversely, 8
neglectes engine, or one which has not been
runs properly, may require an overhaul very
cary init te
3 It the engine fa making obvious knocking or
‘rumbling noises, the connecting rod andor
main bearings are probably at faut
4 Loss of power, rough running, excessive
noise and high fuel consumption rates may
also point to the need for an overhaul,
‘especially i they are all present atthe same
time. ita compete tune-up does not remedy
the situation, major mechanical work isthe
‘only solution.
5 An engine overhaul generally involv
‘restoring the internal parts tothe specications
‘of a new engine. The piston rings and main
{and connecting rod bearings are usually
renewed and, If necessary, the cylinder Is
rebored (50cc engine only). The end result
should be a like-new engine that wil give
‘many trouble-free miles asthe origina
6 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read
‘through the related procedures to familiarise
‘scope and requirements of
uling_an engine Is not all
that dificult, but it is time consuming,
Check on the availabilty of parts and make
‘sure that any necessary special tools,
‘equipment and supplies are obtained in
advance,
7 Most work can be done with typle
workshop hand tools, although number of
precision measuring tools are required for
Inspecting pats to determine f they must be
fenewed. Often a dealer will handle the
inspection of parts and offer adview concerning
reconditioning ane renewal. As a general rule,
time is the primary cost of an overhaul soit
does not pay to install wom or substandard
parts.
8 As a final note, to ensure maximum Ite and
‘minimum trouble trom a rebullt engine,
‘everything must be assembled with care in a
spotlesly-clean envionment.
5. Enginestransmission unit -
removal and installation
t
Caution: The engine is not heavy,
although engine removal and installation
should be carried out with the aid
{of an assistant; personal injury oF damage
could occur if the engine falls. or 1s
Removal
1 Suppart the scooter securely in an upright
Position. Work can be made easier by ralsing
‘the machine toa suitable working height on
hydraulic ramp 0° a suitable plattorm. Make
‘sre the scooter is secure and wil not topple
2 Remove the bodywork a
accoring to model (see Chaptar 7)
8 Ifthe angine is arty, particularly around its
‘mountings, wash t thoroughly before starting
‘any major dsmanting work. This will make
Work much easier and rule out the possibilty
of dit fling inside.
4 Disconnect tne battery negative terminal
required
(600 Chapter 9). Trace the wiring from the
alternator/pulse generator coll on the
right-hand side ofthe engine and disconnect
itat the connectors. Fre the wiring from any
Clips onthe engine. Pul the spark pug cap dt
the pug. ‘
'5 Ethor remove the carburetor, leaving the
thttie cable attached if required, of just
disconnect the fuel hose and vacuum hose
from their unions on the carburetor and inet
‘manifold respectively, and disconnect the
throttle cable (see Chapter 4). Wnere ited,
disconnect the automatic choke witing
connector. Also disconnect the ol hose fom
the oll tank and the pump cable ffom
tho pump (see Chapter 4). On Typhoon 80and
125models, disconnect the fuel pump vacuum
hose trom the engine.
6 Either remove tha starter motor # required,
or disconnect the starter motor leads (208
Chapter 9),
T Remove the air filter housing (pee
Chapter 4). Where fitted, detach the
‘rivebelt alr duct from the front of the
‘cover. On some models, there is a spting
attached to the engine mounting below the
front of the drivebelt cover - detach the
spring
{8 Remove the exhaust system (soe Chap-
tera)
9 If required, remove the rear whee! (ee
Chapter 8). Note: The rear wheel and centre
stand provide a convenient support for the
fengine unit once it is removed trom the
scooter, However itis useful to loosen the rear
Whee! nut at this point before alsconnecting
the rear brake.
410 Disconnect the rear brake cable from the
brake (see Chapter 8),
11. Remove the bolt securing the rear shock
absorber tothe transmission easing and ower
the engine unit careful (see ilustration. i
‘he rear who has been removed, suppor the
fengine unit on a wood block’ to prevent
damage tothe casing. Undo the nut secuting
the upper end ofthe shock tothe frame and
remove the shock.
12 Chock that all wiring, cables and hopes:
are well clear, then remove the tront
‘engine mounting bolt and manoewre2Ae6 Air-cooled two-stroke engines
‘6.128 Remove the nut (arrowed)
the engine back and out of the frame (800
‘6.12b . and withdraw the bolt
we 6 Disassembly and
inastrtons ma
Installation iniormaton
43 Inctalation le the roveree of remove
neti ts oer pas
“DH sure no wis ends crhoses Disassembly
‘become trapped between the engine and
the frame when instaling he engine
') Tighten the engine mounting bot and
shock absorber bolt othe torque settings
“specfiad atthe beginning ofthe Chapter
6) Use new gaskets onthe exhaust pipe
‘connections, and tighten the exhaust
‘mounting nuts securely, having applied @
“Smear of copper based grease to thir
thread toa future removal
) Make sure al wires, cables and hoses are
Correcty routed and connected, and
‘secured by any clips o ties.
€@) Adjust the trate and ll pump cable,
‘andthe rear brake cable fe Ghap-
tert).
7.2a Free the oll pipe clip (arrowed)...
7a Unscrew the nuts ...
4
ie
1 Before dleassembing the engine, the externa
surfaces of he unt shouldbe thoroughly cleanad
‘and dograased. This wil prevent contamination
(of the engine internals, and wil also make
Working lot easier and cleaner. A high lash
point sohent, such as peafn can be used, or
batter stl a proprietary engine degreaser such
1 Gunk. Use od paintbrushes and toothbrushes
to work the solvent into the various recesses of
the engin casings. Tako care to exclude solvent
. watar rom the electrical components and int
and exaust ports,
Warning: Tho use of petrol
(gasoline) as a cleaning agent
‘should be avoided because of
the risk of fire.
7.2 ... then remove the sorews and It
off the cover
7.3b snd draw the head off the cylinder
2 When clean and dry, arrange the unt on the
Workbench, leaving a sultabe clear area for
Working. Gathera selection of small containers
‘and plastic baos 60 that parts can be grouped
together in an easly identiable manner, Some
paper and a pen should be on hand to peenit
Totes to be made and labes attached where
necessary. A supply of clean rag is also
required.
8 Before commencing work, read through the
‘appropriate section so tat some idea of the
nevessary procedure can be gained. When
removing components i should be noted that,
‘reat force is seldom required, unless
Specified. In many cases, @ component's
reluctance to be removed is indicative of an
Incomect approach or removal mathod ~ iin
‘ry doubt, rachack with the text.
4 When disassembling the engine, keep
‘mated’ parts that have been in contact with
{each other during engine operation together
‘These ‘mated’ parts must be re-used or
tenewed a8 an assembly
8 Complete engine disassembly should be
done in the following general order with
Sections. Refer
0 Chapter 2G for details of transmission
components disassembly.
Remove the cylinder head
Remove the cylinder
Remove the piston.
Remove the atarnator
Femove the varator (see Chapter 26).
Remove the starter motor (soe Chapter 9)
Remove the oll pump and divebet.
Remove the reed valve {00 Chapter 4)
‘Separate the crankcase halves.
Remove the crankshaft
Reassembly
{6 Reassembly is accomplished by reversing
the general dizassemby sequence.
7 Gylinder head - removal,
ingpection and installation,
Note: The cyinder head can be removed with
the engine in the frame. the engine has Been
removed, ignore the steps which don't apply.
Caution: The engine must be completely
00! before beginning this procedure or the
cylinder head may become warped.
Removal
4 Remove the engine cover and, It required,
the side panels (soe Chapter 7),
2 Pullout the clip securing the oll hose tothe
cylinderheas cover (see ilustration). Remove
the two screws securing the oylinder head
‘cover and remove the cover noting how is
{600 illustration). Where fitted, detach the ar
‘cooling duct frm the fan housing.
‘8 Unscrew the four cylinder head nuts evenly
‘anda teat time in a criss-cross sequence
Unt they areal loose, then draw the hoad off
the eyinder atusa (soe ilustrations) Ii isrr
Air-cooled two-stroke engines 2A*7
7.420 Fit the nuts...
stuck, tap around the joint faces of the
‘oylinder head with a soft-faced malt to free
the head. Do not attempt to free the head by
Inserting a serewetiver between the head and
cyindor~ you'll damage the sealing surfaces.
Note the relative positions ofthe diferent type
‘of cylinder head nuts ~ two of thom are
‘threaded in the top to house the cover
4 There is no oylindr head gasket fted ae
standard, the machined face of the cylinder
head fiting directly against the machined face
ofthe eyindr. It may found, however, that @
‘askat i ited on aftermarket top-end kts.
Inspection
5 Rotor to Chapter 1 and decarbonise the
‘lider head.
6 Inspect the head very carefully for eracks
‘and other damage. I cracks are found, @ new
head wil be required
7 Check the mating surfaces on the eyinder
had and cylinder for signs of leakage, wich
‘ould indoate warpage,
8 Using a precision straight-edge, chock the
hhead mating surface for warpage. Check
Verily, horizontally and diagonally across
the head, making four checks ina
Installation
® Lubricate the cylinder bore with the
recommended two-stroke ol
10 Ensure both cylinder head and cylinder
‘mating surfaces are clean
41 Carefully fit the cylinder head onto the
cyndor (se illustration 7.3b).
42 Install the four nuts, making sure the
"a
‘82 Draw the cylinder up off the studs
7.42b ... then tighten them as deseribed
‘the specified torque
Special nuts are positioned to accept the
‘Cover screws, and tighten ther al nger-tight
(Gee ilustration). Now tighten them evenly
‘and ati at atime ina eras-cross pattern to
the torque setting spectied at the beginning
ofthe Chapter (see iustration).
18 Install the cylinder Ness cover, making
suo it locates corectly against the alternator
over, and clip the oll hoso to it (see
ilustrations 7.2b and 7.22), thon instal the
‘engine cover and, removed, the side pans
{00 Chapter 7),
8 seo
and installation,
Note: The cylinder can be removed with the
‘engine in the frame,
Removal
1 Remove the exhaust system (see Chapter
4) and the cylinder head (see Section 7).
2 Lif the cyinder up ofthe studs, supporting
‘the piston aa it becomes accessibie to prevent
itniting the crankcase (eee tlustration).
the cylinders tuck, tap around the oint faces
with a Sof-faced maliet to tree it from the
‘crankcase. Don't attempt to free the cyinder
by inserting a screweriver between it and the
crankcase - you'll damage the sealing
surfaces. When the cylinder is removed, stuf
' clean rag around the piston to prevent
‘anying fling into the crankcase
3 Remove the gasket and discard, a8 new
‘one must be used (sae llustration).
Inspection - 50 cc engines
4 inspect the cylinder bore carefully for
seratches and score marks. A rebore wll be
necessary to remove any deep scorés (see
Step 7), i
8 Using telescoping gaugesiand a micrometer,
‘check the dimensions ofthe cylinder to
the amount of wear, taper and ovality. Mesure
near the top {but below the level of the top.
piston ring at TOC), centre and botton) (out
‘above the level of the bottom ring at OC) of
the bore both parallel to and across the
‘crankshaft axis (see ilustration). Calculat any
titferences between the measurements 10
determine any taper or ovalty in the bore.
‘Compare the results to the cylinder |bore
‘specifications atthe Deginning ofthis Chapter.
6 Calculate the piston-to-bore clearande by
‘subtracting the piston diameter (see Section 9)
{rom the bore diameter. the cylinder isn ood
‘condition and the piston-to-bore cleararce is
within specifications, the cylinder can be
re-used. |
7 Ifthe eylinder is tapered, oval, or Worn,
badly scratched, scuffed or scored, hdve it
robored by a Piaggio dealer or motortycie
‘engineer. If the cylinder is rebored, if wil
require an oversize piston and rings. the
cylinder has already been rebored to the
‘maximum oversize and is worn or damaged,
the eylinder must be renewed, Note: Cylinders
‘and pistons are size-coded during manufabture
‘and itis important that they are of the game
size-code. Piaggio list five size-codes (A fo E}
for the original 50 ce air-cooled two-stroke
‘engine and four (M to P) for the Hi-Per2
‘engine; see the specications at the beginning
of this Chapter. The size-code is stamped in
the gasket surface at the top or base of the
cylinder, and in the piston crown. When
‘purchasing a new cylinder or piston, alWvays
‘supply th size-code lett
£8 Check that all the cylinder head stud are
tight in the crankcase halves. If any are loose,
remove them and clean thei threads. Apply @
suitable permanent thread locking compound
and tighten them securely. |
Inspection ~ 80 cc and 125
models
9 On these engines the cylinder bole Is
coated with Nicasl, which has a high
or
Suara
. nie
fo
Saar Pw288 Air-cooled two-stroke engines
‘8.14 Fit the oylinder onto the studs
resistance to wea, The Nicasl coating should
last the life of the engine unless serious
‘engine damage, such as seizure, has
‘cued,
10 Check the cylinder walls carefully for
scratches and score marks. If damage is
noted, yet the bore is stil within the size
Specification (measure as described above in
‘Step 5), seek the advice of a Piaggio doar oF
‘motorcycle engineer as to its sultablty for
‘continued use. It the bore is too bady
‘damaged, anew cylinder must be fitted. Note:
‘Cylinders and pistons are size-coded during
‘manufacture and i ls important that they are
of the same size-code, Piaggio list nine
size-codes (A to I) for the original 125 ce
air-cooled two-stroke engine; see the
specifications at the beginning of this Chapter.
The sizo-code s stamped inthe gasket surtace
at the top or base of the cylinder, and in the
piston crown. When purchasing a new cylinder
‘or piston, always supply the sizo-code letter
Deals of size-codes for ater 125c¢ and al 60
0 ai-cooled two-stroke engines are Not
‘valable, but the identification feters on the
Cynder and piston should aways match.
1. Calculate the piston-to-bore clearance by
subtracting the piston diameter (see Section
9) from the bore dlametar Ifthe cylinder sin
{900d condition and the piston-to-bore
‘learance is within specications the cylinder
‘canbe ro-us0d
42. Chock that al the cylinder head studs are
tight nthe crankcase halves. f any are loose,
remove them and clean their threads. Apply
stable permanent thread locking compound
‘and tighten them securely.
Installation
|Note: On Typhoan 125 and Skipper models,
ltferent thickness cylinder base gaskets aro
fvailable to allow the cylinder top gasket
Surface to be set atthe specified alstance of
2.99 » 0.05 mm below the top ofthe piston
Crown (see ilustration 8.21). Assemble the
Cylinder as described below but without a
‘ase gasket, and measure he distance with @
dal gauge and suitable mounting as described
inSteps 18 0.22.
49 Remove any ag from the crankcase
mouth. Lay the new base gasket in place on
the crankcase making sur its the correct
‘8.18 Mounting bracket for dial gaug
way round (see ilustration 8.8) Never re-use
the old gasket ~ it will have become
‘compressed
‘14 Check that the piston rings are correctly
positioned ao that the rng locating pin in the
piston grooves Is between the ring gaps (see
‘Mustration 10.6). Lubricate the oyindor bore,
piston and piston rings, and the connecting
‘od big- and small-ends, with two-stroke ol,
then ft the eyinder down over the studs unt
the piston crown fits into the bore (see
Itustration),
18 Gently push down onthe cylinder, making
sure tha piston enters the Bore squarely and
does not get cocked sideways. Carefully
compress and feed each ring ito the bore as
the block is lowered. i necassary, uso a soft
mallet to genty tap the cylinder down, but do
ot use force ifthe cylinder appears to be
stuck as the piston and/or rings will be
damaged
118 When the piston is corecty installed in
the cylinder, prs the cylinder down onto the
‘base gasket
7 On 60 co and 80 ce models, instal the
cylinder head (se Section 7),
48 On Typhoon 125 and Skipper models,
Piaggio advises that the distance between the
cylinder top gasket surface and the piston
‘crown la checked at this stage (sae Note
‘above). For this purpose you wil require a dia
‘gauge and a mounting pate; Piaggio provide
‘2 mounting plate (Pt. No. 02026BY) (see
istration.
419 Sel the dia gauge inthe mounting plate,
and with the mounting plate fest and gauge
tip resting against the cylinder top gasket
surface, zero the gauge. Rotate the engine 80
that the piston is part way down the bore,
20 Clamp the mounting plate diagonally
‘across two of the cylinder studs and tighten
the stud nuts to 20 to 22 Nm to ensure that
the oylinder is held firmly against the
crankcase
24 Rotato the crankshaft via the alternator
{otor nut so the piston rises to the top of ts
‘stroke (TDC). At this point read off the dial
‘9auge (see illustration). The reading
represents the distance between the cyindor
top gasket surface and the top ofthe piston
‘ron, Subtract the specified distance of 2.09,
+ 0.05 mm from the reading and the resut ie
{821 Checking the oylinder surface-to-
piston crown relationship,
the thickness of the base gasket required.
Base gaskets are avaiable in 0.2, 03,04, 05,
(0.6, 0.7 and 0.8 mm sizes.
22 ‘Install the cylinder head (see Section 7).
9 oval, inspect
ere salon al ‘
Note: The piston can be removed with the
‘engine inthe frame.
Removal
1 Remove the cylinder (se Section 8).
2 Before removing the piston from the
‘connecting rod, stuf @ clean rag into the hole
‘round the tod to prevent the circlips or
anything else from faling into the crankcase,
‘The piston should have an arrow marked on
‘ts crown which should face down towards the
‘exhaust port. If this isnot visible, mark the
piston accordingly so that it can be installed
the correct way round. Note that the arrow
‘may not be vislole unt the carbon deposits
hhave been scraped off and the piston
cleaned.
‘3 Caretuly priee out the clei on ane side of
the piston using a pointed instrument or a
‘small Nat-bladed screwdriver inserted into the
notch (s¢e llustration). Push the piston pin
‘ut ram the other side to trea the piston fromAir-cooled two-stroke engines 2A*9
‘and push out the piston pin, using
‘a socket extension required
9.36
the connecting red (800 llustation). Remove
the other crcip and aiscard them, as new
‘ones must be used. Use a socket extension to
push the piston pinout if required
DIMI 72 provent tne cicip trom
pinging. eway or. from
HINT} ‘ropoing nto tno crankcase,
pase a rod or screwdriver
with 9 greater dlamater than the gop
between the circlp ends, through the
piston pin. This wi trap the ee fi
Springs out.
QONMIEY 12 ston pin isa tight mtn
the piston bosses, heat the
HINT) piston gonty win a not at
‘Gun ~ thle wil expand the
ley piston 10 ralase ts
7p 0n the pin.
Inspection
4 Before the inspection process can be
Carried out, the piston must be cleaned anc
the ol¢ piston rings removes. Note that if
the oyindoris being rebore, piston inspection
‘can be overiooked as anew one wil be fitted,
' Using your thumbs or an old feelar gauge
blade, carefully remove the rings from the
‘8a Remove the piston rings carefully
using your thumbs
piston (s0@ ilustrations). Do not nick or
‘gouge the piston in the process. Note
whieh way up each ring fits and in’ which
‘groove, as they must be installed in their
‘tiginal posions if being re-used. The upper
surface of each ring should bo marked at one
nc.
5 Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of
the piston. hands
off
the deposits have been soraped away. Oo
not, under any circumstances, use @ wire
brush mounted in @ dril motor to remove
‘deposits trom the piston; the piston material
‘soft and wil be eroded away by the wi
bush,
7 Use a piston ring groove cleaning too! to
remove any carbon deposits from the ring
grooves. If a tool is not available, a
piece broken off an old ring ll do the Job.
Be very careful to remove only the
carbon deposits. Do not remove any metal
and do not rick or gouge the sides o the ring
‘grooves
8 Once the deposits have been removed,
‘lean the piston with solvent and dry it
thoroughiy
‘9 Carefully inspect the piston for cracks
‘around the skit, atthe pin bosses and atthe
fing lands. Also check thatthe cicp grooves
‘are not damage,
10 Normal piston wear appears as even,
vertical wear on the thrust surfaces of the
piston and sight looseness of the top ring in
‘9.12 Measure the piston diameter with a
‘micrometer at the specified distance from
‘the bottom ofthe lower ring groove
{8.188 ‘Slip the pin into the piston and ty to
rock jt back-and-forth It's loose, renew
Z a ‘the piston and pin
Its groove. If the skit is scored or scuted, the
engine may have been suffering from
‘overheating and/or abnormal combustion,
wilch caused excessively igh opeiating
temperatures.
#1" A hoe inthe platon crown isan extreme
Indication that abnormal combustion (pre
‘gnition) has eccurred. Burned areas at the
rdge of the piston crown are usualy
evidence of spark knock (detonatidn). it
any of the above problems exist, the chuses.
‘must be corrected or the damage wil occur
again
12 Check the piston-to-bore clearange by
‘measuring the bore (eee Section 8) ard tho
piston diameter. Measure the piston 26 mm
‘down from the bottom ofthe lower piston ing
‘groove and at 90° to the piston pin axé (S00
ilustration). Subtract the piston diain
‘tom the bos diameter to obtain the clearance,
IF fis greater than the specified figure, the
piston must be renewed (assuming the bore
‘self is within limits, otherwise a rebbre Is
sacessary
13 Apply clean two-stroke ol to the piston
pin, inset it inte the piston and check for any
{reoplay between the two (see illustration}
Measure the pin external diameter, and
compare the measurement to| the
specifications at the beginning of the Chapter
{ce tustratin) onew tha pn tis worn
Beyond the specified ints.
414 ‘Check the concition of te needa oler
‘bearing in the connecting rod small-ond (eee2A#10 Air-cooled two-stroke engines
9.14 Remove the needle roller bearing and
‘check Its condition
Mustration). A worn small-end bearing will
produce a metalic ratte, most audible when
‘the engine Is under load, and increasing as
engine speed rises. This should not be
confused with big-end bearing wear, which
Produces a pronounced knocking noise.
‘Assemble the bearing and the piston pin on
the connecting rod; there should be no
dliscemible freplay between the piston pin,
the bearing and the connecting rod. I the
Piston pin is good (see Stop 13), measure the
Internat clameter of the smali-end bore and
‘compare it to the Specifications. it the
small-ord has worn, the connecting rod and
crankshaft assembly must be renewed (see
‘Section 15) H the smaltend is good, ta new
bearing,
16 Ensure thatthe corect bearing i fied. A
‘mark on the connecting rod, ether
I incicates the smal-end size, and
‘must be matched with
‘new bearing, or by a colour code,
Connecting rod marked |=
‘bearing colour copper or gold.
(Connecting rod marked I~
‘bearing colour blue.
Connecting roc marked
‘beanng colour white or sive
Connecting rod marked ti ~
‘bearing Colour green,
16 I anew piston Isto be fitted, ensure the
correct sizeof piston is ordered. Compare the
piston size with the specifications at the
Dogihing of this Chapter to determine ifthe
Q)ston is standard, oF oversize, indicating a
febored cylinder. Note the piston size-code,
‘The size-code is stamped nthe piston crown,
land the same size-code (8 stamped in the
‘Gasket surface at the top or base of the
‘eylinder. When purchasing a new piston,
always supply the size-code letter
Installation
47 Inspect and install the piston rings (S00)
Section 1)
4B Lubricate the piston pin, the piston pin
bore and the connecting fod smaltend bore
With two-stroke ol Install a new cic in one.
‘Sido of to piston (0 not re-use old ccps).
Une up the piston on the connecting fod,
making sure the arrow on the piston crown
8.182 Make sure the arrow on the piston
faces the exhaust port
faces down towards the exhaust, and insert
the piston pin trom the other side (s
lusteations). Secure the pin with the other
‘ew circip (see lustration). When instaling
the cclips, compress them only just enough
to ft them in the piston, and mako sure they
fare properly seated In thar grooves with tho
‘open end away from the removal notch,
4B Insal the eyindor (9 Section 8)
410 Piston rings ~
Fapedton and instalation
1 New piston rings should be ftted whenever
anengine i being overhauled. Before instaling
‘the new piston rings, the ring end gaps must
be checked
2 Insert the top ring into the bottom of the
fylinder and square it up with the cylinder
walls by pushing tin withthe top ofthe piston.
‘The ring should be about 20 mm from the
bottom edge of the cyiinder. To measure the
fend gap, slip a feeler gauge between the ends
Of the ring and compare the measurement to
the specrfications at the beginning of the
Chapter (s00 istration),
3 Ithe gap i large or smalerthan spectfied,
‘double check to make sure that you have the
Correct rings before proceeding
4 Excess ond gap isnot ertical unless itis
‘greater than 0.7 mm. Again, double-check to
‘ake sure you have the corect rings for your
engine and check thatthe bares not worn.
10.2 Measuring piston ring installed end,
‘op
8.180 Line up the piston and insert
the pin...
3nd secure it with the circlip
'5 Repeat the procedure forthe other rng
{6 Once thering end gaps have been checked
‘corrected, the rings can be installed on tho
piston. Fist identity the ing locating pin In
‘each piston ring groove = the rings must be
positioned so that the pin is in between the
‘pen ends ofthe rng (see ilustration)
7 The upper surface of each ring should be
‘marked atone endl. Insta he lower ring fst.
Make sure that the identification letter near
the end gap is facing up. Fit the ring into the
lower groove in the piston, Do not expand the
fing any more than Is necessary to sie it nto
lace (see llustrations 9.6@ and 9.66).
8 Now Install the top ring into the top groove
In the piston. Make sure the identification
letter near the end gap is facing up.
{9 Once the rings are conecty installed check
that their gaps are positioned each side ofthe
pio,
10,8 Make sure the pin in each groove is
between the ends of the ring (arrow)Air-cooled two-stroke engines 2Ae11
11.3 Remove the alternator cover
"Gov and ntlaton
Note: The cooling fan can b
tha engine inthe name,
Removal
1 Remove the bodywork (see Chapter 7
2 Pullout he cip securing tho of hose tothe
Cylinder head cover (see illustration 7.2a).
Remove the two screws securng the cylinder
head cover and remove the cover, noting how
ICs (eee llustration 7-26), Where fitted
detach the air cooling duct from the fan
housing. Where fited, unclip the secondary
air system from the alternator cover (eee
‘Chap 1, Section 21).
‘3 Remove the three screws securing the
‘akorator cover tothe crankcase and remove
the cover (ee ilustation).
removed with
123 With the rotor securely held, unscrew
the rotor nut (arrowed)
‘¥24e Remove the Woodruff key for
safekeeping
111.4 The fan is secured by throe screws,
(arrowed)
4 Remove the three screws securing the
{cooling fan tothe alternator rotor and remove
the far (o00 llustratio)
Installation
5 Instlation i the reverse of removal.
Note: The alternator can be removed withthe
engine inthe frame.
12 Alternator rotor and stator ~
removal and installation
Removal
+1 Remove the cooling fan (800 Section 11),
2 Trace the viring back from the alternator
‘and pulse generator coll and disconnect it at
the connectors. Free the wining trom any clips
(oF guides and feed it through othe altemator
3 To remove the rotor nut ft Is necessary to
‘stop the rotor from turing. A strap wrench
an be Used around the rotor periphery,
trough be careful not to damage the ignition
Pulse generator col, or you can make up a
tool wich engages the slots in the rotor face
12.54 Remove the stator screws (A) and
the pulse generator col screws (8)
{200 Too! Tip (¢0e itustration). With the rotor
securely held, unscrew the rut
ecessary to use the Piaggio.
No. 020162¥) (see illu
‘two-legged puller. If using the service too},
screw the body of the tool into the thiwads
provided inthe roto, then tighten the centre
Bott down so thatthe rotors crawn off the
fend of the crankshaft; hold the body of the
tool using a spanner on its flats. I using &
‘two-legged puller, assemble tho puller logs
‘through the rotor slots and tighten the centre
bolt down onto the crankshaft end unt the
rotor is drawn off (see illustration). if it
loose, remove the Woodruff key fron} the
shaf, noting how I fits (age Mlustration).
'5 To remove the stator from the crankease,
is also necessary to remove the pul
‘enerator coll, as they come asa liked
‘assembly. Unscrew the three sorews securing
the stator and the two serews securing tho
coll and remove them together (
llustration), Draw the rubber wiring boot out
fof the crankcase and carafuly pul the wiring
through the hole, taking care not to snag it
(G00 itustration)12:7b ... then align the slot inthe rotor
{arrowed} withthe key and instal the rotor
Installation
6 Feed the wiring through the hole in the
crankease and press the rubber boot into the
hole, then instal the stator and pulse generator
Coll onto the crankcase (see illustration).
‘Apply a sulable non-permanent thread locking
‘compound to the stator screw treads, then
install the serews and tighten them securely
{00 itustration)
7 Clean the tapered end ofthe crankshatt and
the corresponding mating surface on the
Inside of the rotor with a suitable solvent
‘Make sure that no matal objects have attached
themselves to the magnets on the inside of
the rotor. removed, ft the Woodrut key into
Its slot inthe shat, then install the rotor onto
the shaft, aligning the sot nthe rotor with the
key (se ihustrations)
@ instal the rotor nut and its washer, and
‘ighton ito the torque seting specified atthe
12.84 Fit the nut...
beginning of the Chapter, using the method
‘employed on removal to prevent the rotor fom
{uring (600 ilustrations).
‘9 Reconnect the wiing atthe connectors and
secure it with any clips or tes,
410 Instal the cooing fan (see Section 11.
:
Note: The starter pinion assembly can be
removed withthe angie in the tram.
Removal
41 Remove the drivebelt cover (see Chap:
ter20).
2 Remove the stator pinion assembly, noting
how it fs (00 ilustration),
13 Starter pinion ol
=e
torque, using the tool to hold the rotor
Inspection
3 Check the starter pinion assembiy for any
signs of damage or wear, particulary for
hipped or broken teeth on either of the
Pinions
4 Rotate the outer pinion and check that it
‘moves smoothly up-and-down the shat, and
that it returns easly to ts rest position (see
iastration)
'5 The starter pinion assembly is supplied a8
‘Complete unt; any ofthe component parts
Is worn or damaged, the unt wil have to be
renewed.
6 The stator pinion mechanism should not be
lubricated: apply a smear of grease to both
‘ends ofthe pinion shaft batore reassembly
Installation
7 Insalation isthe reverse of removal. Ensure
the inner pinion engages withthe starter motor
shat
114 Oil pump and belt - removal,
inspection, installation and
bleeding
‘Note: The oll pump and drivebelt can be
removed withthe angine in the ame.
Removal
4 Remove the drvebolt cover; to access the
‘pump devebot, also remove the vaiator (see
Chapter 2G), Remove the starter pinion
assembly (see Section 13). if the pump Is
being removed rather than just being cisplacedAircooled two-stroke engines 2A*13
“14a Remove the sorew securing the
‘uard plat
for bit renewal, detach the ot inlet and outet
hoses from either the pump itself (a
lustration 14a), noting which fis where, ot
{rom the ol tank and carburetor respectively
‘Seal the end ofthe inet hose or pl the outet
from the ol tank to prevent the tank from
draining. Also disconnect the cable from the
pump cam (see Chapter 4).
2 Draw the spacer of the shat (not noceasary
if only removing the pump, leaving the bet in
place) (o0e itustration).
'3 Remove tho two screws securing the oll
pump, then remove the pump, siding the
rubber grommet securing the hoses out of ts
‘eutoutn te crankcase i the process (f the
hoses are stil attached) (see illustrations)
14.60 Rotate the pump drive tab (arrowed)...
‘14a Inlet hose (A), outlet hose (8).
Remove the two sorows (C)..
‘4b... and remove the inner plate
(arrowed)
Note how the drive tab on the back of the
Burp lates in the slot inthe driven pulley
4 Remove the remaining sorew securing the
(uard plate and remove the plate and the
inner plate behind it (see illustrations). Sip
‘the drvebett of the puleys, then remove the
‘ven puley and the thustwasher behing
{and side the drive pulley off the shat (80
IMustration)
Inspection
{5 Check the pump for obvious signs of
‘damage. Tur te ceive tab by hand and check
that the pump rotates smoothly and trey
(see iltustration) Also check that the cable
cam turns smoothly and returns to rest under
“4b ... and remove the pump, along
with the hoses, if stil attached
‘44¢ Remove the belt, the driven pulley
(A) and its washer, and the drive pulley (8)
pressure of the return spring (J
ilustration).
6 If the operation of the pumps suspecl, or
for internal cleaning, remove the screws
‘securing both cover plates and remove|the
plates. Clean the pump using a solvent, and
Inspect the internal components for wear and
damage, No individual components (are
available, so ifthe pump is faulty it must be
renewed a a unt
7 Check along the length ofthe ckvebelt for
‘pits, exacks or broken teeth and renew the
bot necessary. The belt should be renowes
regardless of its condition at the service
imeerval specified in Chapter 1, or during the
Course of eismanting.2A14 Air-cooled two-stroke engines
Installation
8 Siide the crive pulley, with its shouldered
side innermost, onto the erankshat, than fit
‘the thrustwasher and the driven ple, with ts
slot forthe pump drive tab outermost (800
Iustrations). Fi the belt onto the pulleys,
‘making sure the teeth mesh corectly (see
Iustration).
9 Fit the inner plate, locating the raised
sections on the inside in the recesses In the
Screw Roles (see illustration). Fit the guard
‘and secure It with the single screw (960
lustration)
40 Instal the pump, locating the deve tab in
the slot In the driven pulley and the hose
In its cutout (if removed) (see
Mustration 14.36), and secure it with ts
crows (see ilustration).
11 Hf detached, connect he ol inlet and outlet
14.10 install the pump and secure it with
ihe screws
“14.98 Fit the Inner pate
hhoses to the pump, oll tank or carburettor,
‘according to how they were removed, making
‘ure they are secured by thelr clamps, where
fied, Also connect the cable to the pump
‘cam (see Chapter 4). Bleed the pump as
described below, then acjust the cable (86
Chapter 1),
Caution: Note that cable adjustment Is
Important to ensure that the oll pump
‘delivers the correct amount of oll to the
‘engine and és correctly synchronised with
the thot,
412. Sie the spacer onto the crankshaft (see
Mlustration 14.2), then instal the varator (308
‘Chapter 26) and the starter pinion assembly
(G00 Section 13)
Bleeding
13 Bleoding the pump Is the process of
14.80
14.90 ... and the guide plato
removing the air from it and allowing it to be
filed with o. Simpy remove the bleed scrow,
‘and wait unto, without any ar mixed wt it
Starts to flow out of the hole, then reft the
‘crew (s0e illustration).
14 Its important that th ol ines are bied of
tir as well a the pump. Ensure the ignition
Switch is OFF. Disconnect the oll outlet hose
from the carburettor and crank the engine with
the Kckstartor unt ol, without any air mixed
‘wth it, flows out the hase, then reconnect the
hose and secure i withthe clip
Note: To separate the crankcase haves, the
‘engine must be removed rom the frame.
Separation
1 To access the crankshaft and its bearings,
the crankcase must be splitinto two parts,
2 To enabie the crankcases to be separated,
‘the engine must be removed from the fra
(s2e Section 5). Before the crankcases can be
‘separated the folowing components must be
removed:
‘) Cynder head (Section 7)
) Cylinder Section 8)
) Altenator rotor and stator (Section 12)
4) Reed valve (Chapter 4)
¢) Starter motor (Chapter 9)
1) Oil pump and divebelt eee Section 14)Air-cooled two-stroke engines 24615
16.8 The crankcase halves are secured by
‘eight bolts (arowed)
‘8 Unecrew the eight crankcase bots evenly, a
ite at time and in a criss-cross sequence
ntl thy are all finger-taht thon remewve them
(600 ilustation).
4 Carell remove the right-hand crankcase
half from the left-hand half. f necessary,
Piaggio produce a service tool (Part No.
(220163Y) to aid separation ofthe crankcase
halves. Alternatively, heat the crankcase
around the outside af the bearing housing,
and/or use the set-ups shown (see
iMustrations). The rst wil craw the right-hand
half of the crankshaft, Jeaving the shaft in the
lettchand half. The second will press the
crankshaft out ofthe left-hand hall The end of
the crankshaft can be tapped using &
sof-aced mallet to help fae, but take great
are not o Use too much force and make sure
‘the crankshaft fs supported by an assistant to
15.118 A sot of sorew extractors is a
‘useful addition to the workshop
'16:4a Drawing the right-hand half off the
erankshat
prevent it from dropping if it suddenly comes
‘eo. The crankshaft is a pressed-togetner
unt, 50 any undue shack or force could upset
the relative positions of the two sections.
Note: If the haivas do not separate easily,
‘make sure al fastaners have boon removed.
Do not try and separate the haves by leverng
‘against the crankcase mating surfaces as they
‘are easily scored and wil not seal correctly
aftowares
'5 Before removing the ol seals, measure the
‘et dopth in each crankcase hall as the new
‘ones must be conectly postioned. Drive the
fll seal out of each crankcase half using @
unch inserted from the inside (8
Ilustation).
{6 Remove the main bearings from either the
crankcase halves or from the crankshaft set
‘Toremeve them frm the crankeases, het the
418.6 Using a hot-air gun and internal
bearing puller to remove the bearing
18.115 This typeof scrow extractors
screwed anti-clockwise into the broken off
fastener
18.4b Pressing the crankshaft out of the
Tett-hand halt
‘bearing housings using a hot ar gun, then use
{an nteral bearing puller to draw the beatings
fut (see illustration). Alternatively they can
be driven out from the outside of the
Crankease, To remove them from| the
Crankshaft, use an external bearing pile.
Check the condition of the bearings ~ they
should spin trely and smoothly without any
‘ough spots or excessive noise. Renew them
if there is any doubt as to thee conaition
Inspection
7 The crankcases should be cleaned
thoroughly with new solvent and dried with
‘compressed ai.
{All traces of old gasket sealant should be
removed from the mating surfaces. Minor
amage to the surfaces can be cleaned up
with a fine fe.
Caution: Be very careful not to nick or
‘gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or oll
leaks will result. Check both crankcase
‘halves very carefully for cracks and other
damage.
‘9 Small cracks or hols in aluminium castings
may be repaired with an epoxy resin adhesive
‘88 temporary measure. Permanent repairs
‘can only be effected by argon-are welding,
{and only a specialist in this process is jn a
position to advise on the economy or practical
Aspect of such a repat If any damage is found
that ean't be repaired, renew both crankcase
halves asa set
40 Damaged threads can be economically
reciaimed by using a dlamond section wire
Insert, of the Holl-Col type, which is easly
{ited after ceiling and retapping the affected
‘ya.
‘11 Sheared studs or screws can usually be
removed with screw extractors, which consist
of a tapered, lof-thread screw of very has
Stoel. These are inserted Ito a predilled hole
in the stud, and usually succeed n dlslodging
the most stubborn ‘stud or screw (dee
istrations).
{Te crankahaft should not ve. dey.
Drie dee na a Te Ae
breiore wilbe wor nn Beating of
‘ror 0-0 Bera. Ge nox nay 6) 8
anf ma es
aed2A+16 Air-cooled two-stroke engines
18.14 Check crankshaft runout at points A,
8,C and D
this may cause the of seals to fl resulting in
{oss of compression and poor running.
13. worn big-end bearing will produce a
pronounced knocking noise, most aulibie
‘when the engine is under lead, and increasing
‘engine speed rises. This should not be
Contused with smalend bearing woo, which
produces a lighter, metalic ratte. To assess
the condition of the big-end bearing, grasp
the small-end of the connecting rod and
alternately pul it away from and push it into
the crankshaft, checking for ary freeplay
between the two. I any freaplay Is noted, the
bearing is worn and the crankshaft assembly
must be renewed. Take care not confuse the
small amount of side-to-side pay between the
reo and the crankshaft webe with play in the
bearing its. Refer to Section 8 for smal-end
bearing checks.
14 Place the crankshaft on V-blocks and.
check the runout at the main bearing journals
Using a dial gauge (see lustration). Compare
the reading to the maximum speciiod atthe
beginning ofthe Chapter ftherunout exceeds,
the limit, the crankshaft must be renewed,
although it may be possible to have the
Crankshattrued by an engineer
Reassembly
416 Fit the new crankshaft olf seals into the
crankoase halves and drive them to the
previously measured set-depth using a seal
Grver or socket, making sure they enter
‘squarely (see ilustrations).
46 Fitthe bearings onto the crankshaft wil
‘be neceasary to frst heat the bearings in an
16.18a Fit the new oll sats.
‘ll bath to around 100°C, then to tap them
fento the shat using a sutable length of tube
‘hat ust fe over the shaft and bears onto the
inner race only ofthe bearing - do not crive
‘the bearings on using the outer race as they
will be damaged (see illustration) Ifthe
Bearings do not ft easly they are not hot
‘enough
Warning: This must be done very
carefully to avoid the risk of
personal injury.
17 It not already done, remove al traces of
sealant from the crankcase mating surfaces.
Generously lubricate the crankshaft,
particularly around the bearings, with the
Fecommended two-stroke ol, then use a rag
‘saked in high fash-point solvent to wipe over
the mating surfaces ofboth crankcase halves
taremove al races of ol
18 Now heat the right-hand cr
ease halt
= do not use excessive force
116.180 Apply the sealant and join the
‘halves
15.186 . .. and drive thom into the correct
depth
round the main bearing housing, then ft the
Crankshaft into the case, making sure the
bearing is pushed fully into its housing (see
Mlustralone).I required, a freeze spray can
be used on the beerng its to aid installation
‘Alow the case to coal, then apply a small
‘amount of suitable sealant to the mating
surface ofthe case (see iMustrations). Heat
the Teftchand crankcase half around the
bearing housing and fit the halves together,
‘again using the freeze spray on the bearing if
required, and making sure the main bearing is
fully pushed homo.
Caution: Do not apply an excessive amount
of soalant as It will oaze out when the case
hhaWes are assembled.
49 Chack that the crankcase halves are
correctly seated. Note: If they have boon
suffclanty heated, they should ft together
without force. Ifthe casings are not correctiy
16.184 Use a freeze spray on the bearings
10.ease installation f requiredAir-cooled two-stroke engines 2A*17
16.20 Tighten the crankcase bolts to the
‘speciied torque
seated, remove the right-hand crankcase halt
‘and investigate the problem. Do not attempt
fo pull thom together using the crankcase
Dols a the casing wil crack and be ruined.
20 Clean the threads of the crankcase bots
land secure thom finger-tight at first, then
tighten them evenly a litle at a time in @
‘tiss-cfoss sequence to the torque setting
‘specfed at the beginning ofthe Chaptor(s00
Ilustration). Do not wony at this stage the
‘crankshaft appears stor tight when turned
this should be rectiied when the endios =
et.
21 Check the amount of crankshatt encloat
Using a lal gauge and compare the result to
the amount specified at the begining of the
(Chapter. The dal gauge should be supporied
0 that its tip rests against the end of the
Crankshaft ~ push and pull the crankshaft to
‘obtain @ reading on the gauge If the amount
record is eas than the amount specited,
lightly tap the end of the crankshaft with
18.21 Tap the end ofthe crankshaft unt the
‘ondfloat is correct and the shaft turns freely
soft-faged mallet untl the specified amount Is
achieved (see illustration). Rotate the
‘crankshaft by hand there are any signs of
‘undue stiffness, tight or rough spots, oof any
‘other problem, the fault must be reciied
‘fore proceeding further
22 Install al other remove assemblies inthe
‘versa of the sequence given in Step 2
16 Initial start-up after overhaul
1 Mako eure the ol tank is at least party ful
and the pump Is correctly adjusted (see
Chapter 1 and bled of air (eee Section 14)
2 Make sure thers fuel inthe tank.
8 With the igntion OFF, operate the klckstart
' couple of times to check that the engine
tums over easly
4 Tum the igntion ON, stant the engine and
‘alow It to run at'a slow idle until t reaches
‘operating temperature. Do not be alarmed i
‘there i alittle smoke from the exhaust = this
will be due to the oll used to lubricate the
Piston and bore during assembly and should
Subside after a whe
5 If the engine proves reluctant to start,
emove the spark plug and check that it has
fot become wet and oly it has, clean # and
tty again. Ifthe engine refuses to star, go
through the fault finding charts at the endl of
this manual to identity the problem.)
17 Recommended running-in
procedure
1 Treat the engine gent forthe rst few miles
toalow any new parts to bec-n.
2 Even greater caro is recessary ithe engine
has been rebored of a new crankshaft has.
bean installed. In the ease of a rebore, the
‘engine will have to be run-in as when few.
“This means a restraining hand on the tht
Lunt at least 600 miles (1000 krn) have been
covered. There's no point in keeping ta any
Set speed limit - the main iea sto keep from
labouring the engine and to gradually increase
Performance up to the 600 mile (1000 kn)
mark, Make sure that the thratle poston i
varied to vary engine speed, and use full
‘vote for only short busts, but do not alow
the machine to attain more than 80% full
‘speed (70% on Skipper and Typhoon 125) or
to maintain any one speed for too long,
Experience is the best guide, since i's easy to
tall tien an engine is running freely.2A018 Notes