Chapter 2 Part A: Air-cooled two-stroke engines (Sfera 50/80, all Typhoons, Zip and Zip 50, ET2, NRG MC3 DT, Liberty 50, NRG Power DT, Fly 50, LX2 50, LXV50, S50, Skipper) Refer to the beginning of Chapter 1 for model identification details Contents ‘Anat rotor and stator - removal an instalation 2 ‘Cooling fan removal and inetaliaton. i ‘Grankcase halves. crankshaft and connecting fod and bosrings 15, yinder = removal, inspection and instalation Cinder head = decarborisation 0 Chat Cynder head ~ removal, inspection and instalation. Disassembly and reassembly ~ general information ieee Engiestansmission unit removal and installation 5 General information cia speed ~ check and adjustment ee Chapter Inial start-up after overhaul "6 Degrees of difficulty Major engine repair - gonera Gpretore posse win tre engine nib ame Operations requring engine removal. - Piston = removal, inspection and installation Piston rings inspection and instalation. Recommended running: procedure Spark lug gap = check and adjustment. 1 Starter motor - removal and instalation 4 f2 3 8 Ol une and bet -romova inspect, siation nc beng 14 rd hi7 * ee hac Starter pinion assembly ~ removal, hnepecion ad intlton, ‘Chapter 9 13 seat Faityeimeut, S| Ditcly sutabofor suber compatert a alle ake IE Specifications ‘Sfera 50, Typhoon 50 (’93 to '05), Zip, ET2, NRG MC° DT, Liberty 50 General ‘Type ‘Single cylinder two-stroke Chscty Sates Boe 00mm Stoke S03mn Compression ao joowt440,000 mm $40,008 mm 40.010 mm Size-code E 40.015 tstoversize .. 40.195 to 40.215 mm 2nd oversize... 40.305 to 40.415 mm Connecting rod ‘Smal-ond internal dametor ‘Sze! . 17.007 t0 17.011 mm SEO Kessesesses 17.008 to 17.007 mm Ota hisessidinns> 17.001 t0 17.008 mm Piston Piston diameter (measured 25 mm down from lower ing groove, at 90° to piston pin axis) 39.940. mm 38.945 mm. 39.050 mm. 39.955 mm 39.960 mm. 40.140 0 40.160 mm 140340 to 40360 mm 10,050 to 0.080 mm 17,999 t0 12,005 mm 0.1010 0.25 mm 0.03 mm (0.02 mm (003 to 0,09 mm 33t041 Nm 33041 Nm 1010 11 Nm S)12t0 13 Nm 40 t0 44 Nm a@.ace 40.0 mm 393mm yo3t01 40,005 to 40.012 mm 40,012 to 40.019 mm 40.019 to 40.026 mm 40,026 to 40.033 mm 140206 to 40.238 mm 401406 to 40.438 mm 17.003 017.011 mm 17.080 mm ‘Single cylinder two-stroke— Air-cooled two-stroke engines 2Ae3 Piston | Pleton clameter (measured 25 mm down from lower ring groove, at 90° to piston pin axis) ‘Standard Pia COE os ou ars dovancs tad cesses: 99,949 t 99.060 mm 1S RR, Said Be 39,950 to 39.957 mm ‘Size code 0 : SA. 88,857 to 88.964 mm " ‘Size code P. ‘ 39,964 to 39.971 mm st oversize. 40.143 t0 40.171 mm 2nd oversize 3 STII 40.349 0 40371 mm | Piston to-bor ciearancs Piston pin diamator «. Piston pin bore diameter in platon (0.058 to 0.069 mn 112,001 to 12.005 mm 12.007 10 12012 mm Piston rings ing end gop (netae) 0.1010 0.25 mm ' Crankshaft | Funout max) ] ‘Ard nd ohare 0.03 mm ‘Atiht-hand end TSE. mm f Endtoat TEES 0008t@0.00mm | Torque settings Engine trot mount bo. 331041 Nm Raa shook abeorber lower mourting |v... sco siscs cscs 88641 Nm Cylinder head nuts. . . 100.11 Nm Crankease bots ‘ E 212i 1aNm ‘Armator rotor nt. = 401044 Nm Sfera 80, Typhoon 80 Single cylinder two-stroke Tar es { 485mm 4¢omm 104101 46.495 to 46.525 mm 17.007 017.011 mm 7.0080 17.007 mm | 17.001 to 17.008 mm Piston Pn daetr (reamed 25 down frm ower in rove a SO to pston pn a ‘Standard 46.465 to 4.495 mm Piston-to-bore clearance ie (0.025 to 0.035 me * Piston pin clameter « SOT 11,890 t0 12.006 mm iston rings Fing end gap (instal) 03010025 mm Crankshaft ; Funaut (ras) ‘Xt mda and le-hand end. a + 003mm ‘rgnehand ender 202mm { endfost nsec 8.0310 009 mm | | Torque settings | 4 Engine front mounting bolt... .-......6s6s0eseesseee ‘9310 41 Nm | Rear shock absorber lower ming <0. 2020000000 COULD aseanm Oyindernead nutes = Gene 2 Sot 11m Grankease bots 0.002000 III 22 aw iaNm ‘aerator rotor ma 40t0 44m2Ae4 Air-cooled two-stroke engines Typhoon 125, Skipper 54,900 to 54.905 mm ‘54,905 to 55.000 mm 55.000 to 55.005 mm '55.005 to 58.010 mm 155.010 10 55.015 mm TOT) 580015 to 85.020 mm STEIN. $8020 10 85.085 mm CIITA 58.008 t0 $8.00 mm z 85,080 to $5,035 mm 20,008 t0 20.013 mm 20,008 to 20.010 mm 19,999 to 20,006 mm 19.997 to 20.002 mm 154,945 to 64.950 mm 54.950 to 64.955 mm 54,955 to 84.960 mm 54,960 to 4,965 mm 54.965 to 84.970 mm 54.970 t0 84975 mm 54,975 to 64.980 mm 54,980 to 84.985 mm '54.985 to 64,990 mm (0.040 to 0.050 mm 15,989 to 16.006 mm 0.2010 0.35 mm 0.03 mm 0.03 0 0.09 mm 33t0 41 Nm 33041 Nm we 2 22t023Nm ST 5210 86NNmAir-cooled two-stroke engines 2Ae5 1. General information Tho engine unit is @ single cylinder two-stroke, with fan-asslated ar cooling, The fan is mounted on the aerator rotor, which 's onthe right-hand ened of the crankshaf. The Crankshaft assembly is pressed, incorporating the connecting rod, with the big-end running on the ankor on aneeiroer bag, The piston also runs on @ nm bearing fitted in the small ‘connecting rod. The crankshaft runs in caged ball main bearings. The erankoase divides vertical 2 eee ‘Al components and assemblies, with the ‘exception of the crankshattVeonnecting rod and its bearings, can be worked on without having to remove umber of areas require attention atthe same time, removal of the engin i recommended, {as tis easy todo so. 3. Operations requiring engine removal ‘To access the crankshalt and connecting od and its bearings, the engine must be removed from the frame and the crankcase, halves must be separate. 4 Major engine repair - 1 tis not always easy to dotormir for if an engine should be com ‘overhauled, 35 a number of factors must be considered 2 High mieage snot necessary an indication ‘that an overhaul is needed, while low mieage, on the other hand, doesnot preclude the nood for an overnaul. Frequency of servicing is probably the single most Important Consideration. An engine that has regular and frequent maintenance will most likely give many miles of reliable service, Conversely, 8 neglectes engine, or one which has not been runs properly, may require an overhaul very cary init te 3 It the engine fa making obvious knocking or ‘rumbling noises, the connecting rod andor main bearings are probably at faut 4 Loss of power, rough running, excessive noise and high fuel consumption rates may also point to the need for an overhaul, ‘especially i they are all present atthe same time. ita compete tune-up does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work isthe ‘only solution. 5 An engine overhaul generally involv ‘restoring the internal parts tothe specications ‘of a new engine. The piston rings and main {and connecting rod bearings are usually renewed and, If necessary, the cylinder Is rebored (50cc engine only). The end result should be a like-new engine that wil give ‘many trouble-free miles asthe origina 6 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read ‘through the related procedures to familiarise ‘scope and requirements of uling_an engine Is not all that dificult, but it is time consuming, Check on the availabilty of parts and make ‘sure that any necessary special tools, ‘equipment and supplies are obtained in advance, 7 Most work can be done with typle workshop hand tools, although number of precision measuring tools are required for Inspecting pats to determine f they must be fenewed. Often a dealer will handle the inspection of parts and offer adview concerning reconditioning ane renewal. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul soit does not pay to install wom or substandard parts. 8 As a final note, to ensure maximum Ite and ‘minimum trouble trom a rebullt engine, ‘everything must be assembled with care in a spotlesly-clean envionment. 5. Enginestransmission unit - removal and installation t Caution: The engine is not heavy, although engine removal and installation should be carried out with the aid {of an assistant; personal injury oF damage could occur if the engine falls. or 1s Removal 1 Suppart the scooter securely in an upright Position. Work can be made easier by ralsing ‘the machine toa suitable working height on hydraulic ramp 0° a suitable plattorm. Make ‘sre the scooter is secure and wil not topple 2 Remove the bodywork a accoring to model (see Chaptar 7) 8 Ifthe angine is arty, particularly around its ‘mountings, wash t thoroughly before starting ‘any major dsmanting work. This will make Work much easier and rule out the possibilty of dit fling inside. 4 Disconnect tne battery negative terminal required (600 Chapter 9). Trace the wiring from the alternator/pulse generator coll on the right-hand side ofthe engine and disconnect itat the connectors. Fre the wiring from any Clips onthe engine. Pul the spark pug cap dt the pug. ‘ '5 Ethor remove the carburetor, leaving the thttie cable attached if required, of just disconnect the fuel hose and vacuum hose from their unions on the carburetor and inet ‘manifold respectively, and disconnect the throttle cable (see Chapter 4). Wnere ited, disconnect the automatic choke witing connector. Also disconnect the ol hose fom the oll tank and the pump cable ffom tho pump (see Chapter 4). On Typhoon 80and 125models, disconnect the fuel pump vacuum hose trom the engine. 6 Either remove tha starter motor # required, or disconnect the starter motor leads (208 Chapter 9), T Remove the air filter housing (pee Chapter 4). Where fitted, detach the ‘rivebelt alr duct from the front of the ‘cover. On some models, there is a spting attached to the engine mounting below the front of the drivebelt cover - detach the spring {8 Remove the exhaust system (soe Chap- tera) 9 If required, remove the rear whee! (ee Chapter 8). Note: The rear wheel and centre stand provide a convenient support for the fengine unit once it is removed trom the scooter, However itis useful to loosen the rear Whee! nut at this point before alsconnecting the rear brake. 410 Disconnect the rear brake cable from the brake (see Chapter 8), 11. Remove the bolt securing the rear shock absorber tothe transmission easing and ower the engine unit careful (see ilustration. i ‘he rear who has been removed, suppor the fengine unit on a wood block’ to prevent damage tothe casing. Undo the nut secuting the upper end ofthe shock tothe frame and remove the shock. 12 Chock that all wiring, cables and hopes: are well clear, then remove the tront ‘engine mounting bolt and manoewre2Ae6 Air-cooled two-stroke engines ‘6.128 Remove the nut (arrowed) the engine back and out of the frame (800 ‘6.12b . and withdraw the bolt we 6 Disassembly and inastrtons ma Installation iniormaton 43 Inctalation le the roveree of remove neti ts oer pas “DH sure no wis ends crhoses Disassembly ‘become trapped between the engine and the frame when instaling he engine ') Tighten the engine mounting bot and shock absorber bolt othe torque settings “specfiad atthe beginning ofthe Chapter 6) Use new gaskets onthe exhaust pipe ‘connections, and tighten the exhaust ‘mounting nuts securely, having applied @ “Smear of copper based grease to thir thread toa future removal ) Make sure al wires, cables and hoses are Correcty routed and connected, and ‘secured by any clips o ties. €@) Adjust the trate and ll pump cable, ‘andthe rear brake cable fe Ghap- tert). 7.2a Free the oll pipe clip (arrowed)... 7a Unscrew the nuts ... 4 ie 1 Before dleassembing the engine, the externa surfaces of he unt shouldbe thoroughly cleanad ‘and dograased. This wil prevent contamination (of the engine internals, and wil also make Working lot easier and cleaner. A high lash point sohent, such as peafn can be used, or batter stl a proprietary engine degreaser such 1 Gunk. Use od paintbrushes and toothbrushes to work the solvent into the various recesses of the engin casings. Tako care to exclude solvent . watar rom the electrical components and int and exaust ports, Warning: Tho use of petrol (gasoline) as a cleaning agent ‘should be avoided because of the risk of fire. 7.2 ... then remove the sorews and It off the cover 7.3b snd draw the head off the cylinder 2 When clean and dry, arrange the unt on the Workbench, leaving a sultabe clear area for Working. Gathera selection of small containers ‘and plastic baos 60 that parts can be grouped together in an easly identiable manner, Some paper and a pen should be on hand to peenit Totes to be made and labes attached where necessary. A supply of clean rag is also required. 8 Before commencing work, read through the ‘appropriate section so tat some idea of the nevessary procedure can be gained. When removing components i should be noted that, ‘reat force is seldom required, unless Specified. In many cases, @ component's reluctance to be removed is indicative of an Incomect approach or removal mathod ~ iin ‘ry doubt, rachack with the text. 4 When disassembling the engine, keep ‘mated’ parts that have been in contact with {each other during engine operation together ‘These ‘mated’ parts must be re-used or tenewed a8 an assembly 8 Complete engine disassembly should be done in the following general order with Sections. Refer 0 Chapter 2G for details of transmission components disassembly. Remove the cylinder head Remove the cylinder Remove the piston. Remove the atarnator Femove the varator (see Chapter 26). Remove the starter motor (soe Chapter 9) Remove the oll pump and divebet. Remove the reed valve {00 Chapter 4) ‘Separate the crankcase halves. Remove the crankshaft Reassembly {6 Reassembly is accomplished by reversing the general dizassemby sequence. 7 Gylinder head - removal, ingpection and installation, Note: The cyinder head can be removed with the engine in the frame. the engine has Been removed, ignore the steps which don't apply. Caution: The engine must be completely 00! before beginning this procedure or the cylinder head may become warped. Removal 4 Remove the engine cover and, It required, the side panels (soe Chapter 7), 2 Pullout the clip securing the oll hose tothe cylinderheas cover (see ilustration). Remove the two screws securing the oylinder head ‘cover and remove the cover noting how is {600 illustration). Where fitted, detach the ar ‘cooling duct frm the fan housing. ‘8 Unscrew the four cylinder head nuts evenly ‘anda teat time in a criss-cross sequence Unt they areal loose, then draw the hoad off the eyinder atusa (soe ilustrations) Ii isrr Air-cooled two-stroke engines 2A*7 7.420 Fit the nuts... stuck, tap around the joint faces of the ‘oylinder head with a soft-faced malt to free the head. Do not attempt to free the head by Inserting a serewetiver between the head and cyindor~ you'll damage the sealing surfaces. Note the relative positions ofthe diferent type ‘of cylinder head nuts ~ two of thom are ‘threaded in the top to house the cover 4 There is no oylindr head gasket fted ae standard, the machined face of the cylinder head fiting directly against the machined face ofthe eyindr. It may found, however, that @ ‘askat i ited on aftermarket top-end kts. Inspection 5 Rotor to Chapter 1 and decarbonise the ‘lider head. 6 Inspect the head very carefully for eracks ‘and other damage. I cracks are found, @ new head wil be required 7 Check the mating surfaces on the eyinder had and cylinder for signs of leakage, wich ‘ould indoate warpage, 8 Using a precision straight-edge, chock the hhead mating surface for warpage. Check Verily, horizontally and diagonally across the head, making four checks ina Installation ® Lubricate the cylinder bore with the recommended two-stroke ol 10 Ensure both cylinder head and cylinder ‘mating surfaces are clean 41 Carefully fit the cylinder head onto the cyndor (se illustration 7.3b). 42 Install the four nuts, making sure the "a ‘82 Draw the cylinder up off the studs 7.42b ... then tighten them as deseribed ‘the specified torque Special nuts are positioned to accept the ‘Cover screws, and tighten ther al nger-tight (Gee ilustration). Now tighten them evenly ‘and ati at atime ina eras-cross pattern to the torque setting spectied at the beginning ofthe Chapter (see iustration). 18 Install the cylinder Ness cover, making suo it locates corectly against the alternator over, and clip the oll hoso to it (see ilustrations 7.2b and 7.22), thon instal the ‘engine cover and, removed, the side pans {00 Chapter 7), 8 seo and installation, Note: The cylinder can be removed with the ‘engine in the frame, Removal 1 Remove the exhaust system (see Chapter 4) and the cylinder head (see Section 7). 2 Lif the cyinder up ofthe studs, supporting ‘the piston aa it becomes accessibie to prevent itniting the crankcase (eee tlustration). the cylinders tuck, tap around the oint faces with a Sof-faced maliet to tree it from the ‘crankcase. Don't attempt to free the cyinder by inserting a screweriver between it and the crankcase - you'll damage the sealing surfaces. When the cylinder is removed, stuf ' clean rag around the piston to prevent ‘anying fling into the crankcase 3 Remove the gasket and discard, a8 new ‘one must be used (sae llustration). Inspection - 50 cc engines 4 inspect the cylinder bore carefully for seratches and score marks. A rebore wll be necessary to remove any deep scorés (see Step 7), i 8 Using telescoping gaugesiand a micrometer, ‘check the dimensions ofthe cylinder to the amount of wear, taper and ovality. Mesure near the top {but below the level of the top. piston ring at TOC), centre and botton) (out ‘above the level of the bottom ring at OC) of the bore both parallel to and across the ‘crankshaft axis (see ilustration). Calculat any titferences between the measurements 10 determine any taper or ovalty in the bore. ‘Compare the results to the cylinder |bore ‘specifications atthe Deginning ofthis Chapter. 6 Calculate the piston-to-bore clearande by ‘subtracting the piston diameter (see Section 9) {rom the bore diameter. the cylinder isn ood ‘condition and the piston-to-bore cleararce is within specifications, the cylinder can be re-used. | 7 Ifthe eylinder is tapered, oval, or Worn, badly scratched, scuffed or scored, hdve it robored by a Piaggio dealer or motortycie ‘engineer. If the cylinder is rebored, if wil require an oversize piston and rings. the cylinder has already been rebored to the ‘maximum oversize and is worn or damaged, the eylinder must be renewed, Note: Cylinders ‘and pistons are size-coded during manufabture ‘and itis important that they are of the game size-code. Piaggio list five size-codes (A fo E} for the original 50 ce air-cooled two-stroke ‘engine and four (M to P) for the Hi-Per2 ‘engine; see the specications at the beginning of this Chapter. The size-code is stamped in the gasket surface at the top or base of the cylinder, and in the piston crown. When ‘purchasing a new cylinder or piston, alWvays ‘supply th size-code lett £8 Check that all the cylinder head stud are tight in the crankcase halves. If any are loose, remove them and clean thei threads. Apply @ suitable permanent thread locking compound and tighten them securely. | Inspection ~ 80 cc and 125 models 9 On these engines the cylinder bole Is coated with Nicasl, which has a high or Suara . nie fo Saar Pw288 Air-cooled two-stroke engines ‘8.14 Fit the oylinder onto the studs resistance to wea, The Nicasl coating should last the life of the engine unless serious ‘engine damage, such as seizure, has ‘cued, 10 Check the cylinder walls carefully for scratches and score marks. If damage is noted, yet the bore is stil within the size Specification (measure as described above in ‘Step 5), seek the advice of a Piaggio doar oF ‘motorcycle engineer as to its sultablty for ‘continued use. It the bore is too bady ‘damaged, anew cylinder must be fitted. Note: ‘Cylinders and pistons are size-coded during ‘manufacture and i ls important that they are of the same size-code, Piaggio list nine size-codes (A to I) for the original 125 ce air-cooled two-stroke engine; see the specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. The sizo-code s stamped inthe gasket surtace at the top or base of the cylinder, and in the piston crown. When purchasing a new cylinder ‘or piston, always supply the sizo-code letter Deals of size-codes for ater 125c¢ and al 60 0 ai-cooled two-stroke engines are Not ‘valable, but the identification feters on the Cynder and piston should aways match. 1. Calculate the piston-to-bore clearance by subtracting the piston diameter (see Section 9) from the bore dlametar Ifthe cylinder sin {900d condition and the piston-to-bore ‘learance is within specications the cylinder ‘canbe ro-us0d 42. Chock that al the cylinder head studs are tight nthe crankcase halves. f any are loose, remove them and clean their threads. Apply stable permanent thread locking compound ‘and tighten them securely. Installation |Note: On Typhoan 125 and Skipper models, ltferent thickness cylinder base gaskets aro fvailable to allow the cylinder top gasket Surface to be set atthe specified alstance of 2.99 » 0.05 mm below the top ofthe piston Crown (see ilustration 8.21). Assemble the Cylinder as described below but without a ‘ase gasket, and measure he distance with @ dal gauge and suitable mounting as described inSteps 18 0.22. 49 Remove any ag from the crankcase mouth. Lay the new base gasket in place on the crankcase making sur its the correct ‘8.18 Mounting bracket for dial gaug way round (see ilustration 8.8) Never re-use the old gasket ~ it will have become ‘compressed ‘14 Check that the piston rings are correctly positioned ao that the rng locating pin in the piston grooves Is between the ring gaps (see ‘Mustration 10.6). Lubricate the oyindor bore, piston and piston rings, and the connecting ‘od big- and small-ends, with two-stroke ol, then ft the eyinder down over the studs unt the piston crown fits into the bore (see Itustration), 18 Gently push down onthe cylinder, making sure tha piston enters the Bore squarely and does not get cocked sideways. Carefully compress and feed each ring ito the bore as the block is lowered. i necassary, uso a soft mallet to genty tap the cylinder down, but do ot use force ifthe cylinder appears to be stuck as the piston and/or rings will be damaged 118 When the piston is corecty installed in the cylinder, prs the cylinder down onto the ‘base gasket 7 On 60 co and 80 ce models, instal the cylinder head (se Section 7), 48 On Typhoon 125 and Skipper models, Piaggio advises that the distance between the cylinder top gasket surface and the piston ‘crown la checked at this stage (sae Note ‘above). For this purpose you wil require a dia ‘gauge and a mounting pate; Piaggio provide ‘2 mounting plate (Pt. No. 02026BY) (see istration. 419 Sel the dia gauge inthe mounting plate, and with the mounting plate fest and gauge tip resting against the cylinder top gasket surface, zero the gauge. Rotate the engine 80 that the piston is part way down the bore, 20 Clamp the mounting plate diagonally ‘across two of the cylinder studs and tighten the stud nuts to 20 to 22 Nm to ensure that the oylinder is held firmly against the crankcase 24 Rotato the crankshaft via the alternator {otor nut so the piston rises to the top of ts ‘stroke (TDC). At this point read off the dial ‘9auge (see illustration). The reading represents the distance between the cyindor top gasket surface and the top ofthe piston ‘ron, Subtract the specified distance of 2.09, + 0.05 mm from the reading and the resut ie {821 Checking the oylinder surface-to- piston crown relationship, the thickness of the base gasket required. Base gaskets are avaiable in 0.2, 03,04, 05, (0.6, 0.7 and 0.8 mm sizes. 22 ‘Install the cylinder head (see Section 7). 9 oval, inspect ere salon al ‘ Note: The piston can be removed with the ‘engine inthe frame. Removal 1 Remove the cylinder (se Section 8). 2 Before removing the piston from the ‘connecting rod, stuf @ clean rag into the hole ‘round the tod to prevent the circlips or anything else from faling into the crankcase, ‘The piston should have an arrow marked on ‘ts crown which should face down towards the ‘exhaust port. If this isnot visible, mark the piston accordingly so that it can be installed the correct way round. Note that the arrow ‘may not be vislole unt the carbon deposits hhave been scraped off and the piston cleaned. ‘3 Caretuly priee out the clei on ane side of the piston using a pointed instrument or a ‘small Nat-bladed screwdriver inserted into the notch (s¢e llustration). Push the piston pin ‘ut ram the other side to trea the piston fromAir-cooled two-stroke engines 2A*9 ‘and push out the piston pin, using ‘a socket extension required 9.36 the connecting red (800 llustation). Remove the other crcip and aiscard them, as new ‘ones must be used. Use a socket extension to push the piston pinout if required DIMI 72 provent tne cicip trom pinging. eway or. from HINT} ‘ropoing nto tno crankcase, pase a rod or screwdriver with 9 greater dlamater than the gop between the circlp ends, through the piston pin. This wi trap the ee fi Springs out. QONMIEY 12 ston pin isa tight mtn the piston bosses, heat the HINT) piston gonty win a not at ‘Gun ~ thle wil expand the ley piston 10 ralase ts 7p 0n the pin. Inspection 4 Before the inspection process can be Carried out, the piston must be cleaned anc the ol¢ piston rings removes. Note that if the oyindoris being rebore, piston inspection ‘can be overiooked as anew one wil be fitted, ' Using your thumbs or an old feelar gauge blade, carefully remove the rings from the ‘8a Remove the piston rings carefully using your thumbs piston (s0@ ilustrations). Do not nick or ‘gouge the piston in the process. Note whieh way up each ring fits and in’ which ‘groove, as they must be installed in their ‘tiginal posions if being re-used. The upper surface of each ring should bo marked at one nc. 5 Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of the piston. hands off the deposits have been soraped away. Oo not, under any circumstances, use @ wire brush mounted in @ dril motor to remove ‘deposits trom the piston; the piston material ‘soft and wil be eroded away by the wi bush, 7 Use a piston ring groove cleaning too! to remove any carbon deposits from the ring grooves. If a tool is not available, a piece broken off an old ring ll do the Job. Be very careful to remove only the carbon deposits. Do not remove any metal and do not rick or gouge the sides o the ring ‘grooves 8 Once the deposits have been removed, ‘lean the piston with solvent and dry it thoroughiy ‘9 Carefully inspect the piston for cracks ‘around the skit, atthe pin bosses and atthe fing lands. Also check thatthe cicp grooves ‘are not damage, 10 Normal piston wear appears as even, vertical wear on the thrust surfaces of the piston and sight looseness of the top ring in ‘9.12 Measure the piston diameter with a ‘micrometer at the specified distance from ‘the bottom ofthe lower ring groove {8.188 ‘Slip the pin into the piston and ty to rock jt back-and-forth It's loose, renew Z a ‘the piston and pin Its groove. If the skit is scored or scuted, the engine may have been suffering from ‘overheating and/or abnormal combustion, wilch caused excessively igh opeiating temperatures. #1" A hoe inthe platon crown isan extreme Indication that abnormal combustion (pre ‘gnition) has eccurred. Burned areas at the rdge of the piston crown are usualy evidence of spark knock (detonatidn). it any of the above problems exist, the chuses. ‘must be corrected or the damage wil occur again 12 Check the piston-to-bore clearange by ‘measuring the bore (eee Section 8) ard tho piston diameter. Measure the piston 26 mm ‘down from the bottom ofthe lower piston ing ‘groove and at 90° to the piston pin axé (S00 ilustration). Subtract the piston diain ‘tom the bos diameter to obtain the clearance, IF fis greater than the specified figure, the piston must be renewed (assuming the bore ‘self is within limits, otherwise a rebbre Is sacessary 13 Apply clean two-stroke ol to the piston pin, inset it inte the piston and check for any {reoplay between the two (see illustration} Measure the pin external diameter, and compare the measurement to| the specifications at the beginning of the Chapter {ce tustratin) onew tha pn tis worn Beyond the specified ints. 414 ‘Check the concition of te needa oler ‘bearing in the connecting rod small-ond (eee2A#10 Air-cooled two-stroke engines 9.14 Remove the needle roller bearing and ‘check Its condition Mustration). A worn small-end bearing will produce a metalic ratte, most audible when ‘the engine Is under load, and increasing as engine speed rises. This should not be confused with big-end bearing wear, which Produces a pronounced knocking noise. ‘Assemble the bearing and the piston pin on the connecting rod; there should be no dliscemible freplay between the piston pin, the bearing and the connecting rod. I the Piston pin is good (see Stop 13), measure the Internat clameter of the smali-end bore and ‘compare it to the Specifications. it the small-ord has worn, the connecting rod and crankshaft assembly must be renewed (see ‘Section 15) H the smaltend is good, ta new bearing, 16 Ensure thatthe corect bearing i fied. A ‘mark on the connecting rod, ether I incicates the smal-end size, and ‘must be matched with ‘new bearing, or by a colour code, Connecting rod marked |= ‘bearing colour copper or gold. (Connecting rod marked I~ ‘bearing colour blue. Connecting roc marked ‘beanng colour white or sive Connecting rod marked ti ~ ‘bearing Colour green, 16 I anew piston Isto be fitted, ensure the correct sizeof piston is ordered. Compare the piston size with the specifications at the Dogihing of this Chapter to determine ifthe Q)ston is standard, oF oversize, indicating a febored cylinder. Note the piston size-code, ‘The size-code is stamped nthe piston crown, land the same size-code (8 stamped in the ‘Gasket surface at the top or base of the ‘eylinder. When purchasing a new piston, always supply the size-code letter Installation 47 Inspect and install the piston rings (S00) Section 1) 4B Lubricate the piston pin, the piston pin bore and the connecting fod smaltend bore With two-stroke ol Install a new cic in one. ‘Sido of to piston (0 not re-use old ccps). Une up the piston on the connecting fod, making sure the arrow on the piston crown 8.182 Make sure the arrow on the piston faces the exhaust port faces down towards the exhaust, and insert the piston pin trom the other side (s lusteations). Secure the pin with the other ‘ew circip (see lustration). When instaling the cclips, compress them only just enough to ft them in the piston, and mako sure they fare properly seated In thar grooves with tho ‘open end away from the removal notch, 4B Insal the eyindor (9 Section 8) 410 Piston rings ~ Fapedton and instalation 1 New piston rings should be ftted whenever anengine i being overhauled. Before instaling ‘the new piston rings, the ring end gaps must be checked 2 Insert the top ring into the bottom of the fylinder and square it up with the cylinder walls by pushing tin withthe top ofthe piston. ‘The ring should be about 20 mm from the bottom edge of the cyiinder. To measure the fend gap, slip a feeler gauge between the ends Of the ring and compare the measurement to the specrfications at the beginning of the Chapter (s00 istration), 3 Ithe gap i large or smalerthan spectfied, ‘double check to make sure that you have the Correct rings before proceeding 4 Excess ond gap isnot ertical unless itis ‘greater than 0.7 mm. Again, double-check to ‘ake sure you have the corect rings for your engine and check thatthe bares not worn. 10.2 Measuring piston ring installed end, ‘op 8.180 Line up the piston and insert the pin... 3nd secure it with the circlip '5 Repeat the procedure forthe other rng {6 Once thering end gaps have been checked ‘corrected, the rings can be installed on tho piston. Fist identity the ing locating pin In ‘each piston ring groove = the rings must be positioned so that the pin is in between the ‘pen ends ofthe rng (see ilustration) 7 The upper surface of each ring should be ‘marked atone endl. Insta he lower ring fst. Make sure that the identification letter near the end gap is facing up. Fit the ring into the lower groove in the piston, Do not expand the fing any more than Is necessary to sie it nto lace (see llustrations 9.6@ and 9.66). 8 Now Install the top ring into the top groove In the piston. Make sure the identification letter near the end gap is facing up. {9 Once the rings are conecty installed check that their gaps are positioned each side ofthe pio, 10,8 Make sure the pin in each groove is between the ends of the ring (arrow)Air-cooled two-stroke engines 2Ae11 11.3 Remove the alternator cover "Gov and ntlaton Note: The cooling fan can b tha engine inthe name, Removal 1 Remove the bodywork (see Chapter 7 2 Pullout he cip securing tho of hose tothe Cylinder head cover (see illustration 7.2a). Remove the two screws securng the cylinder head cover and remove the cover, noting how ICs (eee llustration 7-26), Where fitted detach the air cooling duct from the fan housing. Where fited, unclip the secondary air system from the alternator cover (eee ‘Chap 1, Section 21). ‘3 Remove the three screws securing the ‘akorator cover tothe crankcase and remove the cover (ee ilustation). removed with 123 With the rotor securely held, unscrew the rotor nut (arrowed) ‘¥24e Remove the Woodruff key for safekeeping 111.4 The fan is secured by throe screws, (arrowed) 4 Remove the three screws securing the {cooling fan tothe alternator rotor and remove the far (o00 llustratio) Installation 5 Instlation i the reverse of removal. Note: The alternator can be removed withthe engine inthe frame. 12 Alternator rotor and stator ~ removal and installation Removal +1 Remove the cooling fan (800 Section 11), 2 Trace the viring back from the alternator ‘and pulse generator coll and disconnect it at the connectors. Free the wining trom any clips (oF guides and feed it through othe altemator 3 To remove the rotor nut ft Is necessary to ‘stop the rotor from turing. A strap wrench an be Used around the rotor periphery, trough be careful not to damage the ignition Pulse generator col, or you can make up a tool wich engages the slots in the rotor face 12.54 Remove the stator screws (A) and the pulse generator col screws (8) {200 Too! Tip (¢0e itustration). With the rotor securely held, unscrew the rut ecessary to use the Piaggio. No. 020162¥) (see illu ‘two-legged puller. If using the service too}, screw the body of the tool into the thiwads provided inthe roto, then tighten the centre Bott down so thatthe rotors crawn off the fend of the crankshaft; hold the body of the tool using a spanner on its flats. I using & ‘two-legged puller, assemble tho puller logs ‘through the rotor slots and tighten the centre bolt down onto the crankshaft end unt the rotor is drawn off (see illustration). if it loose, remove the Woodruff key fron} the shaf, noting how I fits (age Mlustration). '5 To remove the stator from the crankease, is also necessary to remove the pul ‘enerator coll, as they come asa liked ‘assembly. Unscrew the three sorews securing the stator and the two serews securing tho coll and remove them together ( llustration), Draw the rubber wiring boot out fof the crankcase and carafuly pul the wiring through the hole, taking care not to snag it (G00 itustration)12:7b ... then align the slot inthe rotor {arrowed} withthe key and instal the rotor Installation 6 Feed the wiring through the hole in the crankease and press the rubber boot into the hole, then instal the stator and pulse generator Coll onto the crankcase (see illustration). ‘Apply a sulable non-permanent thread locking ‘compound to the stator screw treads, then install the serews and tighten them securely {00 itustration) 7 Clean the tapered end ofthe crankshatt and the corresponding mating surface on the Inside of the rotor with a suitable solvent ‘Make sure that no matal objects have attached themselves to the magnets on the inside of the rotor. removed, ft the Woodrut key into Its slot inthe shat, then install the rotor onto the shaft, aligning the sot nthe rotor with the key (se ihustrations) @ instal the rotor nut and its washer, and ‘ighton ito the torque seting specified atthe 12.84 Fit the nut... beginning of the Chapter, using the method ‘employed on removal to prevent the rotor fom {uring (600 ilustrations). ‘9 Reconnect the wiing atthe connectors and secure it with any clips or tes, 410 Instal the cooing fan (see Section 11. : Note: The starter pinion assembly can be removed withthe angie in the tram. Removal 41 Remove the drivebelt cover (see Chap: ter20). 2 Remove the stator pinion assembly, noting how it fs (00 ilustration), 13 Starter pinion ol =e torque, using the tool to hold the rotor Inspection 3 Check the starter pinion assembiy for any signs of damage or wear, particulary for hipped or broken teeth on either of the Pinions 4 Rotate the outer pinion and check that it ‘moves smoothly up-and-down the shat, and that it returns easly to ts rest position (see iastration) '5 The starter pinion assembly is supplied a8 ‘Complete unt; any ofthe component parts Is worn or damaged, the unt wil have to be renewed. 6 The stator pinion mechanism should not be lubricated: apply a smear of grease to both ‘ends ofthe pinion shaft batore reassembly Installation 7 Insalation isthe reverse of removal. Ensure the inner pinion engages withthe starter motor shat 114 Oil pump and belt - removal, inspection, installation and bleeding ‘Note: The oll pump and drivebelt can be removed withthe angine in the ame. Removal 4 Remove the drvebolt cover; to access the ‘pump devebot, also remove the vaiator (see Chapter 2G), Remove the starter pinion assembly (see Section 13). if the pump Is being removed rather than just being cisplacedAircooled two-stroke engines 2A*13 “14a Remove the sorew securing the ‘uard plat for bit renewal, detach the ot inlet and outet hoses from either the pump itself (a lustration 14a), noting which fis where, ot {rom the ol tank and carburetor respectively ‘Seal the end ofthe inet hose or pl the outet from the ol tank to prevent the tank from draining. Also disconnect the cable from the pump cam (see Chapter 4). 2 Draw the spacer of the shat (not noceasary if only removing the pump, leaving the bet in place) (o0e itustration). '3 Remove tho two screws securing the oll pump, then remove the pump, siding the rubber grommet securing the hoses out of ts ‘eutoutn te crankcase i the process (f the hoses are stil attached) (see illustrations) 14.60 Rotate the pump drive tab (arrowed)... ‘14a Inlet hose (A), outlet hose (8). Remove the two sorows (C).. ‘4b... and remove the inner plate (arrowed) Note how the drive tab on the back of the Burp lates in the slot inthe driven pulley 4 Remove the remaining sorew securing the (uard plate and remove the plate and the inner plate behind it (see illustrations). Sip ‘the drvebett of the puleys, then remove the ‘ven puley and the thustwasher behing {and side the drive pulley off the shat (80 IMustration) Inspection {5 Check the pump for obvious signs of ‘damage. Tur te ceive tab by hand and check that the pump rotates smoothly and trey (see iltustration) Also check that the cable cam turns smoothly and returns to rest under “4b ... and remove the pump, along with the hoses, if stil attached ‘44¢ Remove the belt, the driven pulley (A) and its washer, and the drive pulley (8) pressure of the return spring (J ilustration). 6 If the operation of the pumps suspecl, or for internal cleaning, remove the screws ‘securing both cover plates and remove|the plates. Clean the pump using a solvent, and Inspect the internal components for wear and damage, No individual components (are available, so ifthe pump is faulty it must be renewed a a unt 7 Check along the length ofthe ckvebelt for ‘pits, exacks or broken teeth and renew the bot necessary. The belt should be renowes regardless of its condition at the service imeerval specified in Chapter 1, or during the Course of eismanting.2A14 Air-cooled two-stroke engines Installation 8 Siide the crive pulley, with its shouldered side innermost, onto the erankshat, than fit ‘the thrustwasher and the driven ple, with ts slot forthe pump drive tab outermost (800 Iustrations). Fi the belt onto the pulleys, ‘making sure the teeth mesh corectly (see Iustration). 9 Fit the inner plate, locating the raised sections on the inside in the recesses In the Screw Roles (see illustration). Fit the guard ‘and secure It with the single screw (960 lustration) 40 Instal the pump, locating the deve tab in the slot In the driven pulley and the hose In its cutout (if removed) (see Mustration 14.36), and secure it with ts crows (see ilustration). 11 Hf detached, connect he ol inlet and outlet 14.10 install the pump and secure it with ihe screws “14.98 Fit the Inner pate hhoses to the pump, oll tank or carburettor, ‘according to how they were removed, making ‘ure they are secured by thelr clamps, where fied, Also connect the cable to the pump ‘cam (see Chapter 4). Bleed the pump as described below, then acjust the cable (86 Chapter 1), Caution: Note that cable adjustment Is Important to ensure that the oll pump ‘delivers the correct amount of oll to the ‘engine and és correctly synchronised with the thot, 412. Sie the spacer onto the crankshaft (see Mlustration 14.2), then instal the varator (308 ‘Chapter 26) and the starter pinion assembly (G00 Section 13) Bleeding 13 Bleoding the pump Is the process of 14.80 14.90 ... and the guide plato removing the air from it and allowing it to be filed with o. Simpy remove the bleed scrow, ‘and wait unto, without any ar mixed wt it Starts to flow out of the hole, then reft the ‘crew (s0e illustration). 14 Its important that th ol ines are bied of tir as well a the pump. Ensure the ignition Switch is OFF. Disconnect the oll outlet hose from the carburettor and crank the engine with the Kckstartor unt ol, without any air mixed ‘wth it, flows out the hase, then reconnect the hose and secure i withthe clip Note: To separate the crankcase haves, the ‘engine must be removed rom the frame. Separation 1 To access the crankshaft and its bearings, the crankcase must be splitinto two parts, 2 To enabie the crankcases to be separated, ‘the engine must be removed from the fra (s2e Section 5). Before the crankcases can be ‘separated the folowing components must be removed: ‘) Cynder head (Section 7) ) Cylinder Section 8) ) Altenator rotor and stator (Section 12) 4) Reed valve (Chapter 4) ¢) Starter motor (Chapter 9) 1) Oil pump and divebelt eee Section 14)Air-cooled two-stroke engines 24615 16.8 The crankcase halves are secured by ‘eight bolts (arowed) ‘8 Unecrew the eight crankcase bots evenly, a ite at time and in a criss-cross sequence ntl thy are all finger-taht thon remewve them (600 ilustation). 4 Carell remove the right-hand crankcase half from the left-hand half. f necessary, Piaggio produce a service tool (Part No. (220163Y) to aid separation ofthe crankcase halves. Alternatively, heat the crankcase around the outside af the bearing housing, and/or use the set-ups shown (see iMustrations). The rst wil craw the right-hand half of the crankshaft, Jeaving the shaft in the lettchand half. The second will press the crankshaft out ofthe left-hand hall The end of the crankshaft can be tapped using & sof-aced mallet to help fae, but take great are not o Use too much force and make sure ‘the crankshaft fs supported by an assistant to 15.118 A sot of sorew extractors is a ‘useful addition to the workshop '16:4a Drawing the right-hand half off the erankshat prevent it from dropping if it suddenly comes ‘eo. The crankshaft is a pressed-togetner unt, 50 any undue shack or force could upset the relative positions of the two sections. Note: If the haivas do not separate easily, ‘make sure al fastaners have boon removed. Do not try and separate the haves by leverng ‘against the crankcase mating surfaces as they ‘are easily scored and wil not seal correctly aftowares '5 Before removing the ol seals, measure the ‘et dopth in each crankcase hall as the new ‘ones must be conectly postioned. Drive the fll seal out of each crankcase half using @ unch inserted from the inside (8 Ilustation). {6 Remove the main bearings from either the crankcase halves or from the crankshaft set ‘Toremeve them frm the crankeases, het the 418.6 Using a hot-air gun and internal bearing puller to remove the bearing 18.115 This typeof scrow extractors screwed anti-clockwise into the broken off fastener 18.4b Pressing the crankshaft out of the Tett-hand halt ‘bearing housings using a hot ar gun, then use {an nteral bearing puller to draw the beatings fut (see illustration). Alternatively they can be driven out from the outside of the Crankease, To remove them from| the Crankshaft, use an external bearing pile. Check the condition of the bearings ~ they should spin trely and smoothly without any ‘ough spots or excessive noise. Renew them if there is any doubt as to thee conaition Inspection 7 The crankcases should be cleaned thoroughly with new solvent and dried with ‘compressed ai. {All traces of old gasket sealant should be removed from the mating surfaces. Minor amage to the surfaces can be cleaned up with a fine fe. Caution: Be very careful not to nick or ‘gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or oll leaks will result. Check both crankcase ‘halves very carefully for cracks and other damage. ‘9 Small cracks or hols in aluminium castings may be repaired with an epoxy resin adhesive ‘88 temporary measure. Permanent repairs ‘can only be effected by argon-are welding, {and only a specialist in this process is jn a position to advise on the economy or practical Aspect of such a repat If any damage is found that ean't be repaired, renew both crankcase halves asa set 40 Damaged threads can be economically reciaimed by using a dlamond section wire Insert, of the Holl-Col type, which is easly {ited after ceiling and retapping the affected ‘ya. ‘11 Sheared studs or screws can usually be removed with screw extractors, which consist of a tapered, lof-thread screw of very has Stoel. These are inserted Ito a predilled hole in the stud, and usually succeed n dlslodging the most stubborn ‘stud or screw (dee istrations). {Te crankahaft should not ve. dey. Drie dee na a Te Ae breiore wilbe wor nn Beating of ‘ror 0-0 Bera. Ge nox nay 6) 8 anf ma es aed2A+16 Air-cooled two-stroke engines 18.14 Check crankshaft runout at points A, 8,C and D this may cause the of seals to fl resulting in {oss of compression and poor running. 13. worn big-end bearing will produce a pronounced knocking noise, most aulibie ‘when the engine is under lead, and increasing ‘engine speed rises. This should not be Contused with smalend bearing woo, which produces a lighter, metalic ratte. To assess the condition of the big-end bearing, grasp the small-end of the connecting rod and alternately pul it away from and push it into the crankshaft, checking for ary freeplay between the two. I any freaplay Is noted, the bearing is worn and the crankshaft assembly must be renewed. Take care not confuse the small amount of side-to-side pay between the reo and the crankshaft webe with play in the bearing its. Refer to Section 8 for smal-end bearing checks. 14 Place the crankshaft on V-blocks and. check the runout at the main bearing journals Using a dial gauge (see lustration). Compare the reading to the maximum speciiod atthe beginning ofthe Chapter ftherunout exceeds, the limit, the crankshaft must be renewed, although it may be possible to have the Crankshattrued by an engineer Reassembly 416 Fit the new crankshaft olf seals into the crankoase halves and drive them to the previously measured set-depth using a seal Grver or socket, making sure they enter ‘squarely (see ilustrations). 46 Fitthe bearings onto the crankshaft wil ‘be neceasary to frst heat the bearings in an 16.18a Fit the new oll sats. ‘ll bath to around 100°C, then to tap them fento the shat using a sutable length of tube ‘hat ust fe over the shaft and bears onto the inner race only ofthe bearing - do not crive ‘the bearings on using the outer race as they will be damaged (see illustration) Ifthe Bearings do not ft easly they are not hot ‘enough Warning: This must be done very carefully to avoid the risk of personal injury. 17 It not already done, remove al traces of sealant from the crankcase mating surfaces. Generously lubricate the crankshaft, particularly around the bearings, with the Fecommended two-stroke ol, then use a rag ‘saked in high fash-point solvent to wipe over the mating surfaces ofboth crankcase halves taremove al races of ol 18 Now heat the right-hand cr ease halt = do not use excessive force 116.180 Apply the sealant and join the ‘halves 15.186 . .. and drive thom into the correct depth round the main bearing housing, then ft the Crankshaft into the case, making sure the bearing is pushed fully into its housing (see Mlustralone).I required, a freeze spray can be used on the beerng its to aid installation ‘Alow the case to coal, then apply a small ‘amount of suitable sealant to the mating surface ofthe case (see iMustrations). Heat the Teftchand crankcase half around the bearing housing and fit the halves together, ‘again using the freeze spray on the bearing if required, and making sure the main bearing is fully pushed homo. Caution: Do not apply an excessive amount of soalant as It will oaze out when the case hhaWes are assembled. 49 Chack that the crankcase halves are correctly seated. Note: If they have boon suffclanty heated, they should ft together without force. Ifthe casings are not correctiy 16.184 Use a freeze spray on the bearings 10.ease installation f requiredAir-cooled two-stroke engines 2A*17 16.20 Tighten the crankcase bolts to the ‘speciied torque seated, remove the right-hand crankcase halt ‘and investigate the problem. Do not attempt fo pull thom together using the crankcase Dols a the casing wil crack and be ruined. 20 Clean the threads of the crankcase bots land secure thom finger-tight at first, then tighten them evenly a litle at a time in @ ‘tiss-cfoss sequence to the torque setting ‘specfed at the beginning ofthe Chaptor(s00 Ilustration). Do not wony at this stage the ‘crankshaft appears stor tight when turned this should be rectiied when the endios = et. 21 Check the amount of crankshatt encloat Using a lal gauge and compare the result to the amount specified at the begining of the (Chapter. The dal gauge should be supporied 0 that its tip rests against the end of the Crankshaft ~ push and pull the crankshaft to ‘obtain @ reading on the gauge If the amount record is eas than the amount specited, lightly tap the end of the crankshaft with 18.21 Tap the end ofthe crankshaft unt the ‘ondfloat is correct and the shaft turns freely soft-faged mallet untl the specified amount Is achieved (see illustration). Rotate the ‘crankshaft by hand there are any signs of ‘undue stiffness, tight or rough spots, oof any ‘other problem, the fault must be reciied ‘fore proceeding further 22 Install al other remove assemblies inthe ‘versa of the sequence given in Step 2 16 Initial start-up after overhaul 1 Mako eure the ol tank is at least party ful and the pump Is correctly adjusted (see Chapter 1 and bled of air (eee Section 14) 2 Make sure thers fuel inthe tank. 8 With the igntion OFF, operate the klckstart ' couple of times to check that the engine tums over easly 4 Tum the igntion ON, stant the engine and ‘alow It to run at'a slow idle until t reaches ‘operating temperature. Do not be alarmed i ‘there i alittle smoke from the exhaust = this will be due to the oll used to lubricate the Piston and bore during assembly and should Subside after a whe 5 If the engine proves reluctant to start, emove the spark plug and check that it has fot become wet and oly it has, clean # and tty again. Ifthe engine refuses to star, go through the fault finding charts at the endl of this manual to identity the problem.) 17 Recommended running-in procedure 1 Treat the engine gent forthe rst few miles toalow any new parts to bec-n. 2 Even greater caro is recessary ithe engine has been rebored of a new crankshaft has. bean installed. In the ease of a rebore, the ‘engine will have to be run-in as when few. “This means a restraining hand on the tht Lunt at least 600 miles (1000 krn) have been covered. There's no point in keeping ta any Set speed limit - the main iea sto keep from labouring the engine and to gradually increase Performance up to the 600 mile (1000 kn) mark, Make sure that the thratle poston i varied to vary engine speed, and use full ‘vote for only short busts, but do not alow the machine to attain more than 80% full ‘speed (70% on Skipper and Typhoon 125) or to maintain any one speed for too long, Experience is the best guide, since i's easy to tall tien an engine is running freely.2A018 Notes